Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1) - EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarg...
See Part 2
• Solving Engine Perform...
Vacuum leaks
• How To Find A Vacuum L... +
Voltage leaks
• Finding Ignition Volta...
Power Balance
• How To Perform A Power...
Compression testing
• How To Perform a Compr...
Leak down testing
• How To Perform A Leak ...
I get a lot of questions via email and over at the forum about the steps to take when you encounter a performance issue like my Subaru's hesitation issue and I often feel like I sound like a broken record when I cover the basic steps that I cover when encountering a situation like that. My main point here is that if you have a performance problem and you're going to throw parts at the problem start with the basics before you to off and start replacing sensors that you suspect are a problem, if you don't have evidence of a faulty sensor then don't start there start with the simple tune up items and check for vacuum leaks and air leaks as I've shown here and I believe you'll have better results and save yourself some money in the process. In short the rule of KISS applies, Keep It Simple Stupid.
If you have questions about your own engine performance issues head over to my website and either ask the search function or ask the forum, we'd be happy to help.
www.ericthecarg...
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Man its 2020 and I will always go back to your videos to educate my self on cars
… 2023..
My 2000 F 150 was running bad, really bad. Chugging, stalling, jerking, I mean bad. It hadn't been maintained at all. Watching your videos inspired me to try a couple of things myself. I changed plugs and plug wires and installed a new fuel filter. These three things have more than doubled my fuel economy and overall performance is great. I'm a believer in maintenance now, a changed man and I owe it all to you and these great, easy to understand and informative videos. Keep up the good work.
One tip for installing spark plugs is to gently lower them with your socket wrench (or torque wrench and socket) and set the plug on the threads until its just about to catch but don't tighten it yet just turn the plug counter clockwise very slowly (like loosening it) and wait till you hear or feel a tiny "tink" and that's the very top of the thread of the spark plug dropping in line with the very top of the head's thread for the spark plug. Once you hear that tiny "tink" start tightening it to torque spec and you'll never cross up or bugger the threads since pretty much seems like most if not all heads on cars these days are aluminum. (not sure if I have ever seen any car without aluminum heads)
Tyler Finvold thank you! I do the same thing never stripped or crossthreaded a sparkplug because of it
Interesting... Thank you!
I usually use a piece of hose. Works a lot better.
I do the same except I do not bother turning them left. I start tightening by hand right away but just use my fingertips so no real force is applied. Then spin them til snug and that is when the socket wrench comes into play for final tightening. Crush down the crush washer until snug and then maybe a 1/4 or 1/8 turn to be tight.
Dad always taught me if you've got a problem it's one of 3 things: Fuel-Air-Spark...of course this was before engine computers, but I suppose it still holds true to some degree today and has never left me unable to diagnose my problems.
Cleaning the MAF sensor on an older car can really help performance. I just cleaned the MAF sensor in my mom's 99 Outback (very similar to the one in the video) and the engine runs noticeably smoother.
Hey Eric, Tanner here.
I know you probably have 2500 other comments like this, but you sure know how to make a helpful video. I used, in particular, the spark plug section to help me with changing the spark plugs in my '95 Range Rover 4.0se. Now, I'm not a total idiot with cars but that doesn't mean I'm particularly mechanically inclined. Your channel has given me some solid confidence to tackle my vehicles mechanical needs. Anyways, back to the point. I switched out my spark plugs today and man, I sure can tell that my car is happier. A little surprise i found is that the starting of my car seems to have improved noticeably, which I was happy to see. The performance of the car itself also seems to have been improved. I suppose that's what happens when you get rid of 20 year old plugs, eh? Needless to say, I'm a happy guy!
Anyway, thanks for the videos and for the confidence to pop my hood. Tomorrow I plan to flush my power steering fluid. Wish me luck!
Giving a new meaning to “always wear safety glasses” 👓 😂 lol
Hey Eric, being a Subaru Tech for ten yrs, the very first thing was to clean the throttle plates and yes, NGK are the plugs.. I even used them in my Chry LHS. GREAT video..
The most annoying kind of car repair: "I fixed some things...but nothing seems to be any better".
I agree, ignition performance issues take a whole other level of patience especially when the car isn't running right and time constraints apply.
Thanks for good tips Eric! I have a 1996 Mazda 323 (I believe it's called Mazda Protege there in the States). 1,5 liter 16 valve DOHC engine. I had some idle issues with it and significant decrease in power lately. Now I replaced the old fuel filter and cleaned the MAF- sensor. While taking the air intake housing off to get access to the fuel filter I found out that the housing had huge cracks in it, so unmeasured air was getting into the mix. Fixed it and now it runs smoothly.
Eric, Autolites don't belong in Fords any more than they belong in a Subaru. Fords have run Motorcraft since the 70s, when they sold Autolite to Allied Signal. Autolite is an aftermarket plug that has many specifications over many different car manufacturers. They're not OEM on anything I'm aware of. But I agree, NGK would have been a better plug than an Autolite.
Do your home work Motorcraft spark plugs are made by Autolite.
True story✔
Love the videos! I would disagree with you about gapping the spark plugs. (Remember I'm the guy with 3 engineering degrees, certified in engine, transmissions, and tune up by the time I was 16 and won the Pacific automobile award when I was 17. So I'm a real nerd. But I can always learn, and your videos are terrific.) The size of the gap is critical as it determines the energy released which is very critical. The reason that you may not like the autolight's is that each spark plug has a specific resistance which determines the current flow and therefore affects the energy released. This resistance combined with a spark app the spark app determines the total energy released. If you had issues with autolight's, you might try increasing the gap a little more than the specification which will deliver more energy. Spark plugs are actually very simple devices. However when I was researching this for my tuneup certification, I did note that the resistance varied amongst the different manufacturers. This is easily addressed by modifying the gap to make the total energy release per spec and increase performance.
have you cleaned the mass air flow censor ? it totally helps my car
watching cars being serviced and servicing cars give's me some stress relieve. it really does. I don't know my self why.
Jealous of that fuel filter location. In my 06 Sti its attached to the fuel pump in the tank and is a huge pain to change
+Lucien Gauvin My cousin got the same car and he asked me to changed it i feel your pain.
01 Dodge Durango also has the fuel filter in the tank...I'm not going to mess with it as long as no problem arises requiring the replacement!
there is 2 one on the pump one in line
Just like me ,,with a hyundai getz
I have watched so many videos for diagnostics and you have been the best for helping with describing the whole thing step by step and why to do so. I ended up subscribing to your channel and definitely recommend your videos to everyone.
The timing belt slipped a notch on my Suby. Mine hesitated a few seconds from stop. I had a bend harmonic balancer key, and that would cause the belt to jump. The key hole was beaten beyond repair. The problem got worse.
Thanks man. I've had the same issues. Changing my sparks back to the NGK today and if that doesn't work then my filter.
transmission vs. engine = stall test. If stall RPM is too high, transmission. If stall RPM is too low, engine.
Any car that is boosted (Forced Air Induction) needs NGK plugs. Im a technician for a living, and I specialize in air induction, and performance cars. Also, it needs 91+ octane. Anything less is not sufficient. But, ETCG1 your amazing, when ever I'm questioning my self, I look at your video's to get clarification and tips. THANK YOU!
clean the headlights, it will add +5hp
put in led bulbs and your get a extra 55 hp :)0, add wipers on the headlights and your beat every car in the world , oh yea lol
Smoked light covers, 600 HP to the wheels!
nope - the car just looks faster.
Liam Rowe and a K&N sticker on the body. Forgot about that one.
Wow this is great info, plz tell me more!
PO put autolites into my m3, JUNK, killed coilpacks. My Dodge Caravan used Champion stock, junk, stretched gaps and the isolator ceramic cracked. Put in NGK in both and wow!!! perfect.
very educative..yu hav educated me alot..thank yu ericthecarguy
I have a 1974, Chevrolet Impala. It has a 350 engine in it. What spark plugs would best accommodate my car. Take into mind that it is all original, engine and everything, and yet it runs fantastic!
You should probably takeoff the greasy gloves before you get it the car and touch everything! Just a thought..
I replaced plugs and coils on my '05 Falcon yesterday. Runs beautifully now and sounds better.
Hey. What is your vote on marvel mystery oil for rough idle?
Scotty Kilmer and Eric the Car Guy are the best to explain shit on RUclips. Only difference is that Eric is not annoying. I still like Scotty though, don't get me wrong.
i noticed something about the spark plugs that you missed, they are blowing the compression pressure through the spark plug.
you can tell by the brown witness marks going up the ceramic part of the plug after the metal part of the spark plug.
it happens to all spark plugs eventually, heat, vibration and pressure causes the seal to break down.
If that is the case then the center part would be loose right ?
thank god for this, I've had the same problem in a suzuki jimny , no check engine light and scanner fuel trims are not overly helping or other diagnostic from the scanner. Even the suzuki service centre has no clue
It shocked me how new spark plugs make a HUGE difference in performance.
Its like he says, they pretty much build the engine around the spark plugs (or at least their detonation model).
ya if you don't have any spark it won't burn any fuel
Keys879 just like we built the A-10 around a Gatling gun
I actually have those spark plugs in my 94 toyota tercel and it runs ok but according to the manual it needs the NGK BPR5EY11( a.k.a. V-POWER ) plugs or equivalent that have a groove in the center electrode.
Love those dirty latex gloves. Those mean hard work. Stay dirty!
@Mr Hansen 🤔🗡️
Checklist...
Sparkies
Air Filter & Mass Airflow Sensor
Throttle-Body/valve clean
Timing belt/chain
Fuel Filter/Pump
Alternator
You should always gap the plugs, makes a difference in how well the plug fires. Don't forget anti-seize.
yea anti- seize too bad others dont use it makes changing the plugs or any other parts a dream!!!!!!!!!!!!
XC if your spark plugs are platinum or iridium and the threads are coated in a silver finish then there is no need to use anti-seize as they are already coated in a property that restricts them from being a pain in the ass the next time you take them out! lol
NGK plugs don't need anti-seize, they state this on their website, and the plugs are pre-gapped most of the time. You can check this with a feeler gauge.
Nick Leijenhorst Even if they are "pre-gapped", you should always check anyway. Also every engine requires a different gap, so the gap set by NGK may not be correct. Anti-seize is very important for aluminum heads to prevent thread galling and reduces the chance that you'll break the plugs during removal.
XC
NGK don't require anti-seize or gapping. Just make sure you get the correct spark plug no. for your car and they'll be fine.
NGK or Denso. Always check & verify gap on all plugs when out of the box if possible or allowed to.
Also always change the spark plugs every year even iridiums.
Check your engine belt/chain, a loose pulley, clogged dirty fuel filter or fuel pump, fuel injectors?
NGK or Bosch spark plugs work the best for foreign cars.
Bosch has been straight Garbage and overrated by experience, NGKs in other hand are amazing
midos67 Bosch is trash.
Bosch or NGK Plugs are both good for foreign makes. Though NGK is a higher quality plug than Bosch. My favorite plug for my Chevy truck though is AC Delco
I would hope so AC Delco is OEM for GM vehicles
My Chevy Truck is a GM vehicle
I agree with you Eric. When it comes to plugs, brand does make a difference, especially with imports. Domestics seem less picky, but I still prefer OEM. Motorcraft in Ford, AC Delco in GM, NGK in Asian. And never replace platinum plugs with coppers.
that pony tail tho ...
Pony tail -- Man bun-- ??? LOL...MAYBE A LITTLE FEMININE?????
I had Autolite plugs in my Toyota PU. I switched to NGK and it made a big difference.
wtf is that thing hanging off the back of his head
Pony Tail 😇 my little pony my little pony. ..
super duper lol
when the pressure rose when you shut off the engine is know as the water hammer effect
From Wikipedia
"Water hammer (or, more generally, fluid hammer) is a pressure surge or wave caused when a fluid (usually a liquid but sometimes also a gas) in motion is forced to stop or change direction suddenly (momentum change). A water hammer commonly occurs when a valve closes suddenly at an end of a pipeline system, and a pressure wave propagates in the pipe. It is also called hydraulic shock."
correct me if I'm wrong.
autolite plugs suck all around.
I don't know what part of your ass you pulled that out of but I would not ever use fram spark plugs on an (92-98) i6 motor.
I never would have known it if my mechanic friend didn't suggest it but my 20 year old 200k, starting to get crotchety angry Teg was sent back 10 years simply by changing the fuel filter. It was a night and day difference. Much more power on full throttle and a much smoother ride for long trips.
always check your gap on your new spark plugs. why be lazy
+Ernesto
By checking the gaps on modern spark plugs with gap tools you actually harm the spark plug itself
+AtibbsSPARTAN That doesn't make a bit of sense. Leaving your spark plugs at the wrong gap is going to be much more detrimental than double checking the factory gaps. Not sure how you'd harm them by checking.
+Ernesto Stopped doing that after week when working with NGK sparkplugs, they are gapped perfectly, so if the box was never opened, there is no reason to check it.
NGK, Denso spark plugs come in pre gapped. You are not supposed to gap them. I use Denso spark plugs on my camry. So I know.
It does make sense,You don't fuck with the gap on iridium's.
What timing! Just the video I needed. We started the same route. I have an OPEL Vectra CC 2.0i cat. '93 model. With SplitFire sparkplugs. Chosen fronm the catalouge of SplitFire for the car. Now they say it lasts 75000miles. I havn't done that many, but they are 6 years old. We have checked them, and we think that they're in fine shape. They're some platinum plugs without electrodes. Anyway, we're getting a fuel pressure gauge, to do the next step. I think it will show something for us.....
turbo lag LOL
Most of the mechanic only cares about earning money or not, not too much about sharing knowledge to everyone.
Ur awesome, thank you so much.
Love the old and new fuel filter pressure comparison !!!!!!
Hmmmm so putting NGKs on my Mercedes was probably a bad idea eh...
Lol! I've learned Japanese cars like Japanese plugs (Denso or NGK) American cars like American plugs (Champion, Autolite) and for German, idk, Bosch?
spookypunky Bosch are for European cars.
That's what I figured
wait so you have to use american made plugs for american vehicles??
fargeeks nah i run ngk in my chevy it runs great ngk is a good brand
The main reason for not using AC, Champion, or any of the other iron-based threads is that they rust. And as Neil told us long ago RUST NEVER SLEEPS. If you install any of the aforementioned plugs among others is that rust will seize to aluminum. When you go to remove the AC you have a high probability of tearing the threads out of the head. You can let a customer decide if they want the head pulled to install heili-coils or take a chance and install with head-on. Take a chance of getting shavings in combustion chamber A heli coil install kit runs about $100.00. Have install many many of those coils. But, people will still insist on using what they learned many many years ago. Monna told me, " AC,s are the best", and Momma can't be wrong
dude... lose the pony tail
MrThatsYe why should he?
Stop saying "dude"
thinking the same thing...
MrThatsYe l
Hi Eric! the best way to identify it's an engine problem or a transmission problem is by checking for fuel trims adaptations. +15% long term fuel trim = engine. No fuel trim = transmission. Keep going i really enjoy those videos!
I just put NGKs in my 4.2 Ford. It had autolites. Spark plugs are like lightbulbs. They are pretty generic. They are not magic.
Check your air intake system and make sure it is hooked up correctly, check vacuum hoses and make sure your air filter is clean. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to it and check the key on fuel pressure, check the specs, should be around 35psi. if low, change the fuel filter and recheck. If still low, check fuel pressure regulator for leaks. If OK, replace the fuel pump if pressure low.
hi eric,
After watching your videos all weekend I couldn't wait to pop the hood and check my spark plug gaps just to get my hands dirty.
After a big LPG backfire and a cracked aluminium intake manifold on my buick 3800, the mechanic tells me it was caused by a cracked spark plug. I had always used a T-style spark wrench before but this was the first time using my new torque wrench.
After a $1000 repair bill i've learnt that if the engine is clean, there's no need to stay dirty :)
Eric. You are very right about spark plugs. I decided to take a look of my plugs and replace them. So searched what the original ones should have and bought 4 new ones. From NGK. Then removed old plugs and found that they were incorrect type, like in your case. And they were very old. I put NGK in and my car is like new. So smooth idle, shifting etc. Whole driving experience is completely different. Like driving new car.
It was "thinking" each time before autoshifting, but now it doesnt. Smooth!
Yep, good to put those ngk's in there....that #3 plug (@ 6:44) looked like it had some carbon tracks down the porcelain too...you probably already know to swap in a new set of wires if you find those carbon tracks.....
Air filter and fuel filter rarely give drivability problems unless they are really dirty/clogged/neglected for over X years. Many owner's manual tells you to change air filter at every 15,000 miles/X years, which for me is too long of an interval; I do mine at every oil change; 3,500 miles. Air filters are cheap and I only use genuine filter (in the case of Acura(Honda), they are oil-soaked and non-cleanable). Changing the fuel filter on some Acuras are PITA; integrated into the fuel pump.
Good luck getting those plugs in and out! I changed them on a '98 Outback of mine and the rear two are a PAIN.
You do that... I'll use what it was built and tested with from day one. I have seen a few examples where aftermarket plugs caused problems in drivability due to design. After getting burnt because of crappy plugs, I will NEVER use an aftermarket plug or off-market plug. From day one of conception, manufacturer specific plugs were part of the design.
As far as the spark plugs, I had the same issue...I had Autolite plugs in a Mitsubishi (from the previous owner) and it wasn't performing as it should (partially because they were also corroded)...once I changed over to NGK plugs, the difference was almost night and day
the newer obd 2 scanners likw Genisys and Pegisys which i was trained to use have oscilloscopes in them that can record the wave data. they use those to diagnose many different components including the signal from the O2 sensors which can verify if the catlitc converter is working and so on. when troublshooting electrical faults on a computer controlled system a oscilloscope is one of the best and quickest ways solve the diagnose the problem.it may be an old tool but its not obsolete
Change the spark plugs and wires, if the problem persists i point to the ignition coil. Btw, on older model Opels there always were ALOT of problems with the EGR valves. Take an old licence plate, cut out the shape of the gasket for the EGR (outer shape, do not make a hole in it) and place it between. If the problem is still there it's not your EGR valve.
Know where you stand do a compression check first
Yes I agree swapping out plugs would be the next move
How about changing the mass airflow sensor and inspecting injector nozzles too
2002 Chevy astro van 6cylinder hisatation
Better to diagnose a problem than throw money and parts at it
It's important to mention that factory plugs and wires usually have different resistance to what you'll get with AM plugs/wires. Always at least call the dealership for pricing too, because I've found some parts are actually cheaper at the dealership (eg. thermostat in '04 Liberty in my experience).
Amazing how much the shop has changed since these Subaru videos
Fuel filter is super easy to change on this Subaru! Wish I could say the same about my 1997 Accord. Now that was mission impossible!
Manufacturer plugs are best in each motor is what he was alluding to. AC for GM, Motorcraft for Ford and Champion for Dodge. Many people mistakenly think Autolite is a Ford Brand... it isn't.
You should have pinched the return line off and make sure pressure increases to over 50 psi or almost double running pressure to ensure good fuel pump operation. Liked your part about turning car off and checking for fuel pump bleed off as that is a common problem on this vehicle.
Yeah it is, those gear options are there for when you are driving in the mountains etc. You can always shift between 1st, 2nd, 3rd and drive with an automatic gearbox. The only thing that those options on the shifter do, is not go higher then that gear. Totally safe.
Work* in the way the engine runs using platinum over iridium.
Its always best to stick with what the manufacture uses. There is some engines out there that are picky on what they can use. For example if you take a GM car with the 2.4L twincam and throw in some generic plugs you will most likely have a misfire when the engine is under load. This engine works best with A/c Delco Platinum type plugs. Oh and the gimmick ones called splitfire do not do a thing either. I hope this helps.
Very good video, had a similar issued with my nissan, it was a bad ignition wire for #2 cylinder, I did follow ur troubleshotting protocal, and solved the problem.
Thank you.
I have a 95 Buick Regal Limited 3.8L V6 multi port fuel injection. I have had the same issues the car doesn't hesitate when you first drive it and it's cold, but it runs alot better in cold weather.
I would drive it at about 45 mph and up, then it would hesitate under acceleration. I first thought it might be the fuel filter since it's never been changed.
lately I have come up with a new theory that my battery is very old and just not able to hold voltage as well anymore, and when it's trying to take the power from the battery to the engine it just can't get enough.
I am going to pull my spark plugs and see if they are to the right spec.
thank you for this video, you reminded me of myself. ☺😧
START WITH THE BASICS - THANK YOU SO MUCH !!! could not put off any longer the worsing hesitaion/engine performance on my 130K Elantra so i google ( EricTheCarGuy -hesitation). BOOM -this excellent video quickly tells me: hum, maybe I should change those plugs after 80k miles - problem solved! So from thinking maybe my Elantra finally gave up the ghost to pure joy (from getting passed/horned by gramma to being able to challenge hot rodders). Big fan for about 10 years now, you are the go-to-guy for us car DIY enthusiasts - THANKS A HUNDRED TIMES & 100 MORE TIMES IN THE FUTURE !!!!!
I agree that it's very important to use the manufacturer's plug recommendations. In my case it was the engine builder who spec'd the plug & gap.
Yes, you can shift an automatic without causing harm. It basically prevents the car from shifting above the selected gear. I mostly use it when driving in the mountains to help keep off the brakes.
My Subaru would choke between 2 and 3000rpms and was fine the rest of the time. Changed the spark plugs and the car is brilliant. thanking you my friend.
usually the key needs to be in the ignition and turned the run position for the pump to have any power or a signal to reach normal pressure in the fuel lines. there is pressure left over when you turn most fuel injected cars off allowing some fuel to squirt out when you remove a fuel line
This problem may also be caused by worn throttle position sensor on throttle housing. If you remember carburettors, they had throttle enrichment devices which pumped more fuel in as you put your foot on the gas. Injection systems do the same thing. The ECU knows you are putting your foot on the gas through the throttle position sensor.
+Nick Hill use an analog meter to check for faulty TPS
I am having perhaps a similar issue in 2007 Forester. I have no check engine light and historically the car sat for a year or 2 with dirty tank and blocked in tank filter as well as failed in tank strainers. I first changed filter, Strainer and put aftermarket pump, then I used POR15 tank process with second new filter and left side strainer, then new genuine fuel pump module (filter, strainer, pressure regulator, gauge and pump). Along the way I have cleaned injectors twice, new genuine plugs early in the game, air filter and throttle body cleaned several times. I am now leaning to dampers x 2 on fuel rails (they might be a mess based on original tank condition), Electronic throttle pedal (a friend had one that needed cleaning once) or wondering if the Cat has an intermittent blockage (can that happen?). There are times when the car runs very nice and than pretty much out of the blue performance reduces to about half. It never leaves me stranded and even gets up steep hills just relatively slow. If I floor it it does kick down and rev high but on upshift it looses power again. Before I resealed the airbox in the fender that box used to buzz a lot under power loss conditions. Any ideas?
Using platinum plugs in place of the NGK copper plugs in the S-Series Saturn's is notorious for causing some major performance problems.
Love the side by side comparison slides! Let's cut the old filter open now and examine its condition!
i had that problem in my mazda and put ngks in it and wow what a difference. and its a 92! good vids keep them coming.
because of damage in shipping, those things bounce around in the boxes and can shorten the gap. depending on how ruff they were handled in shipping the gap can be changed drastically or not at all, it never hurts to check the gap and only takes a second anyway.
Hey Eric! What spark plugs would you recommend for LPG modified car. Car starts on gasoline and runs for some time until engine temperature goes high enough to change to LPG system. So car runs on LPG 90 % of time. LPG burning produces higher temperatures and has higher octane number so spark plug producers recommend different spark plugs, made for LPG. Ones that can resist higher temp and with smaller gap for the better ignition of LPG. Aparently LPG ignition calls for higher voltage so other parts of the car can suffer if the gap is not small enough. On the other hand some mechanics still go with the factory recommendation for spark plugs. But if you put LPG in, its not a factory set up anymore. So what is the best: 1. Original factory recomended, 2. Factory recommended with making the gap smaller, 3. Saprk plugs made for LPG, like NGK LPG2 (for my car Chevy Aveo 2007, 1.2, 53 kW, euro version) which has already smaller gap and better materials for high resistance to temp and much more expensive?
what about ignition coils? I measured mine and cyl 1 was 1. cyl 3 was 4 ohms, and cyl 5 was 9 ohms. So I ordered 6 new ones. I guess the rule these days is "if you are changing the iridium plugs that last 100k, then also do the coils."
Nt
ot much of a Subaru fan but that fuel filter access is great .Hesitation is a bugger to diagnose , I have found your plug solution a good start ,However my second step is usually wires on the old cars without coil on plug .A bad insulation caused by oil deterioration will ground out the spark partially causing a slight miss .but these f=days there are so many ignition sensors that any one could cause hesitation even low battery voltage .With all the computers the car should know on its own
i have the understanding of different spark plugs already i was hoping eric could make a video to help more people understand because he has a good way to represent that
It's true that a narrow gap gives a lower load on the coil but then again, modern cars do require a bigger gap than 0.6mm. It's fine to try and save your coil, but the whole point of the gap is so that the air fuel mixture get in there to burn properly. I've never had timing issues due to the gap being to large at 0.8 - 0.9mm simply because most modern engines i work on (EU Ford) are develloped with that gap in mind. I'd personally never file the ground down, that is asking for a burned one.
Service life is the only difference.
Platinum/iridium plugs will last 2-3 times longer than standard plugs, and are commonly OEM-spec on many modern vehicles along with synthetic oils for longer service intervals, but other than any promises of better power is all just marketing fluff.
Main thing is to make sure the plugs you use are the size/heat rating for your engine.
FYI. Auto manufacturers always recommend you use their OEM branded spark plugs.. It keeps them in business.. Any spark plug listed to fit your application will work just fine. Normally what causes spark plug failure can be and usually is an outside condition such at rich fuel mixture, excessive oil consumption, degraded plug wires, misfiring coil or COP. You get the idea!
Thanks for your very good videos. I have the exact same symptom on Subaru Impresa 2008 (front wheel drive), I begin to suspect it is a Subaru's factory problem, I thought of changing ignition advancement, but it is fixed
I've got an '01 cougar v6. its runs great while its cold with the needle barely moved but once it gets to "optimal" running temperatures it gets sluggish. There's no hesitation but the amount of acceleration drops by a noticeable amount.
I had hesitation with my subaru too, then I put on summer performance tires and it went away... lol
I never realized how much it was spinning the tires because they were old as hell and never made noise.
I hope that COMPLETELY fixes the problem. I'm anxious to hear results after a week of driving :)
Eric you are absolutely right about the ignition/spark plug stuff, Subarus run like crap unless the have the proper NGK plug and NGK or OEM wires. A lot of people have had misfires and poor performance that disappeared when they swapped out Bosch or whatever plugs for NGK. Great video.
The effects of that can range from HP loss to burning a hole in your piston. ALWAYS stick to the recommended heat range unless you have a turbo application or you run the engine on LPG (liquified propane gas)
For some Subarus, from what I was able to look up you should relieve the pressure by disconnecting the fuel pump relay and then run the engine till it dies. This information supposedly came from the Factory Service Manual, so who am I to argue with that, lol.
At any rate, if you managed to change the filter and didn't start any fires, I'd say you were ok.
Man Eric I love the way you think, Im the same way with both my old Hondas... LMAO I just realized you even have the same keychain light I got color and all.
One thing I like about your videos is you're a proponent of dealer / factory parts. In my Chevys, if I put anything but AC Delco plugs, wires, and other tune up stuff on them, they run like garbage. And Toyota is VERY picky about their tune up parts, you gotta run Denso with them.