As others have pointed, lower unit oil with that milky color (colour) has been contaminated by water. Water from outside is getting into the lower unit through seal(s), gasket(s) or a crack/hole in the case. If the source of the leak is not eliminated further damage is inevitable. Water is a bad gear lubricant and given enough time will lead to catastrophic gear damage. If left unrepaired this lower unit will fail. Simply replacing the old oil with new will not "fix" this problem Drain the oil, pressure test the lower unit to determine where the leak has occurred. Spray soapy water around all the machined openings into the lower unit. Open one of the oil fill/drain holes, using a hand pump to pump low pressure air into the lower unit and then look for bubbles coming out of the source of the leak/water intrusion. During manufacturing there are limited openings machined into the lower unit; the drive shaft, shift shaft, propeller shaft and oil fill/vent openings. They are all designed to keep lubricating oil in and external water out and are protected by seals and gaskets. Once the leaking seal/gasket is identified it is are replaced. Then the unit is pressure tested again to verify the leak has been eliminated. If it holds pressure (as per manufacturer's instructions) the unit is then filled with oil (exactly as you did here from the bottom hole upwards) and returned to service.
Hello ! Was out on the water for an hr no issues with this engine. I stopped it for 25 mins and went to start again and it wouldn't. It's my first outboard and didn't know you have to put the throttle on a certain a position and then pull the rope, I have been pulling the rope without throttle on set position and It has always taken me 7 pulls or more to start it so I think I flooded the motor. How do I de flood? is there such a thing? I tried putting throttle all the way open and choke closed to possibly deflood and cranked it ten to fifteen times and then tried with throttle on the start position to crank but have had no luck starting, tried also with choke on for a few strokes with no luck either. Could I have fouled up the spark plug?
@@TTTT-rc4fv to start a engine that's been flooded you should put the choke on and have throttle set to wide open (max) it's something all Mx riders know from when we fall off and the bikes on its side and floods the carb 🤦♂️
Wondering if you could change the gear oil while the lower unit is off to service the impeller? Thanks for the set of videos! Very clear and well photographed.
@@davormunda7362 remove your propeller and you will see a cover plate with bolts in, remove the bolts then the plate and the seal is in the cover plate, remove it and replace it
I think he is suggesting draining and flushing, then insert the lower plug and fill via the top plug (instead of using a pump to fill via the lower plug, as demonstrated). Is there a problem with that procedure, like a chance air gets trapped and it doesn't fill completely?
As others have pointed, lower unit oil with that milky color (colour) has been contaminated by water. Water from outside is getting into the lower unit through seal(s), gasket(s) or a crack/hole in the case. If the source of the leak is not eliminated further damage is inevitable. Water is a bad gear lubricant and given enough time will lead to catastrophic gear damage. If left unrepaired this lower unit will fail. Simply replacing the old oil with new will not "fix" this problem Drain the oil, pressure test the lower unit to determine where the leak has occurred. Spray soapy water around all the machined openings into the lower unit. Open one of the oil fill/drain holes, using a hand pump to pump low pressure air into the lower unit and then look for bubbles coming out of the source of the leak/water intrusion. During manufacturing there are limited openings machined into the lower unit; the drive shaft, shift shaft, propeller shaft and oil fill/vent openings. They are all designed to keep lubricating oil in and external water out and are protected by seals and gaskets. Once the leaking seal/gasket is identified it is are replaced. Then the unit is pressure tested again to verify the leak has been eliminated. If it holds pressure (as per manufacturer's instructions) the unit is then filled with oil (exactly as you did here from the bottom hole upwards) and returned to service.
Hello ! Was out on the water for an hr no issues with this engine. I stopped it for 25 mins and went to start again and it wouldn't. It's my first outboard and didn't know you have to put the throttle on a certain a position and then pull the rope, I have been pulling the rope without throttle on set position and It has always taken me 7 pulls or more to start it so I think I flooded the motor. How do I de flood? is there such a thing?
I tried putting throttle all the way open and choke closed to possibly deflood and cranked it ten to fifteen times and then tried with throttle on the start position to crank but have had no luck starting, tried also with choke on for a few strokes with no luck either. Could I have fouled up the spark plug?
@@TTTT-rc4fv to start a engine that's been flooded you should put the choke on and have throttle set to wide open (max) it's something all Mx riders know from when we fall off and the bikes on its side and floods the carb 🤦♂️
Thank you so much! ..Have the same motor its looks fabulous runs well so thank you for showing me how to change the Gear oil!
Is there such a thing as a separate motor oil or we just mix it with the gas? Thanks
Great video of Yamaha 4hp . Thanks bud 👍👌
Wondering if you could change the gear oil while the lower unit is off to service the impeller? Thanks for the set of videos! Very clear and well photographed.
I would love to have the screw and pump.. can this be bought online.
Thank you very much for this instructional video.
What is the length of the M8 bolt you drilled out, please?
Hi mate have you a video of crankcase gasket removal ? Ty
Are you aware of or have you ever converted the Yamaha 4 stroke to allow remote shift and throttle control?
Why is it filled from the bottom plug and not from the topplug?
I think to let the air inside exit!
It would run out the bottom hole. If bottom plug was in air lock would stop any oil going in.
Awesome extremely helpful.
Wonderful Video!!!!
Brilliant again thank you.
How does one take of the prop, I have fishing net stuck behind the hub. Split pin is visible
Remove the split pin using pliers and you should just be able to remove the prop
Instructions and a Scots accent too....bonus.
Whats the wash plug used for?
So water doesn’t get into it I think. Like a seal
Only other plug is for water hose if you run motor off boat to cool engine & protect impeller
Thanks
Why not fill the oil from the top ?
It would run out the bottom hole. If bottom plug was in air lock would stop any oil going in.
Theres water in your oil which means theres a gasket leak somewhere
thanks buddy, like 👍👍👍
Change your output shaft seal........ Water ingress is evident
Hi! I have this problem. I don't know...what output shaft seal? Where is it? Tnx
@@davormunda7362 remove your propeller and you will see a cover plate with bolts in, remove the bolts then the plate and the seal is in the cover plate, remove it and replace it
I think you have water in your gears bro.
100%
Awesome
I squeeze mine in with a mustard container.
milky color, because of water inside its not good
Uh oh water in the oil
If you fill the oil on the top plug you can flush the old oil out and all that slush to.i am Just yousing common sense
He did just that and explained it while doing it.
I think he is suggesting draining and flushing, then insert the lower plug and fill via the top plug (instead of using a pump to fill via the lower plug, as demonstrated). Is there a problem with that procedure, like a chance air gets trapped and it doesn't fill completely?
15hp
You got water in your gears