this is a great video of a 455 olds rebuild. just a couple of things. GM painted the engines once they were fully assembled, so there was overspray all over them and the core plugs were painted also. not a big deal, unless your car is being judged for points at car restoration show. as far as the rear seal goes. all the Car magazines do the offset rear main seal, it has been done so much everyone things its supposed to be done like that. it's not. on engine with the rubber main seal, they are designed to be egg shaped, so that when they are put in the cap and tightened down, they become round. just like the main and rod bearings. you should never spin a crank unless the bearings are torqued to specs. the engineers call it bearing crush. same goes for the rear main seal. they are not designed to be put in off set. also, you should put a small wipe of silicone on the ends where the seals come together. there is a company (GST Racing Seals) that now makes a "one Piece" rear main seal for engine that came with 2-piece rear main seals, I use them for small block and big block chevy. but i am sure they offer them for more engines. also, some cranks, one they have been worn past a certain point or turn below .020 can have a hard time sealing against the rubber seal. ironically, Rope Seals do a better job at sealing a crank that has a grove worn in it from the seal or that has been turned below .020. as for cleaning, I use acetone to do the initial cleaning, followed by dawn, water and a whole lot of elbow grease and nylon brushes. then i hose it down, can hit all the machined surfaces with ton of WD-40 (WD stands for Water Displacement) and then blow it dry with a air hose. then i clean it again with acetone and the marvel mystery oil like you use, on all the machined surfaces like cylinders, and bearing saddles and repeat until it is clean with a white lint free cloth. one last thing. Permatex and Royal Purple assembly lube is great stuff, not knocking them in the slightest, but i live in a warm climate, so if I plan to assemble the engine in one day and fire it up the next, they work great. however, in a warm climate it will run down into the pan after a few days, and you can have a dry start up, which can kill the bearings. if I am going to assemble an engine and have it site more than say 3 days in the desert southwest heat, then i prefer to use Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly lube, it's more like a wheel bearing grease in consistency, but is designed to dissolve in engine oil. it won't run down into the pan if it gets hot in your area, like it does here in the desert southwest. it's also fantastic on roller cams. as for the cylinders, i use break-in oil on the wall when installing the piston and rings. but one all 8 are in i put a little marvel mystery oil in the top of each cylinder to provide lube to the top of the cylinder when the engine first fires off. it makes a smoky mess the first time its fired, but i give the rings a little lube during that first start. the under side of the piston get splash lube from the rods and crank almost right away, when it can take a bit for the oil to get to the rings after first fire up on a break in run.
Joe Montello was Dr. Olds. He made several books about hi performance and race Oldsmobile engines. He passed away a long time ago. But if you can find one of his publications. It's a great source of knowledge and tech only about Oldsmobile
I've heard not much good news about his business since he stepped away and ultimately passed on, unfortunately. He was the Olds wizard for sure. At least now we have Rocket Performance and Dick Miller. Wise is sold off, from what I hear. All I know is I'm loving thay Rocket Racing block, though it's pretty costly.
Where Mondello and Dick Miller were the prominent voices a while back, the leading vocal expert would have to be Trovato now. His book "Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8's" is very knowledgeable and in depth. I have that book and have read it front to back many times. There are others, of course, but they're thinning out by the year.
Love the video, awesome engine build. I wouldn't have used the sealant on the MLS head gaskets but would have done everything exactly the same. Great work! Awesome project!
Slow is fast, fast is slow. For any precision work, this is key. If you want to have real successful throughput, take your time and do things carefully and methodically. Then you can do it once with confidence you won't... cause a situation, and with it time and monetary costs. There are some things you can rush and hackjob, and this ain't one of em.
That Ellison machine shop video of lashing valves is ingenious!! And so simple how no one ever thought of it is mind bowling he turns the engine 8 1/4 split or 90' 8 times and lash every. Valve every time turn engine by time you are done it's all done none are left out
Its excellent to see someone does it the way i like it.i was watching a guy build an LS style gm engine,and he says”this is the smoothest engine i ever put together”they should ALL be like yours or your not assembling it properly or its dirty.either way your wasting your money if your not meticulous.
Get a 4 barrel and intake. 20 more H.P. And it takes about a day. You don't have to remove the distributor on an Oldsmobile for this. You will get better gas milage too. I've done it you can too.
i see you did not use the book by JOE MONDELLO book on assembly of a OLDS ? there is a KIT to improve the ballance of the OILing of the mains and top end area of the engine ? to each his own / JOEs book is very good / i am building a 403 to replace the 307 in a 84 olds cutlas sup. joes shop uses engles cams , your bild looks great yet take a look at joes book and catalog knolidge is good ! good luck on the good olds engine !!!
Time has proven that the oil restriction in the mains have no practical effect. You should check out the book by Bill Trovato. It has more up to date info on the Olds engine from a guy that has raced with BB Olds for decades.
@@hutchhiperf Same.. LOL.. I remember picking up a can at local parts store. Then when I got home, I was like. Hey this smells good.. hehe.. I started using it in builds as part of my break in oil (not sure if that was the smartest thing, but hey I was 16. At least I knew how to build an engine and transmission both at 16 blind folded. Todays kids need to told not to drink the battery acid.. hehe)..
Good video a few corrections Total seal piston ring manufacturing company says never use detergent based cleaner on the bores like trans fluid ect # 2 the bearing locating notches (tangs) do not keep the bearings from spinning it is the bearing crush when the caps are torqued the tangs are simply for location of the bearing #3 when using ARP main studs you must get the block aline honed with the new studs installed they will produce different distortion than bolts not Aline honing will cause premature main bearing failure good video but a few misses
Let me take you on a journey my friend: ruclips.net/video/2dO2WK1abRo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/PlZd33-1ibE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/0zQYG9kzRO8/видео.html Enjoy
A couple of questions. I've seen the piston and ring assembly coated with oil before put in the bore ? It stops any grazes on start up till oil is circulated
I've always coated the skirt and rings on assembly. Most say to lightly oil the bore and keep the rings dry. The best answer is do as the manufacturer says. I'm set in my ways and not always right 🙂
Hey hutch. I am putting the same set up in my 87 cutlass but my power steering pulley is rubbing the gear box. I think it has to do with the motor mount being too low. If you don’t mind me asking which mounts did you use. Thanks for any advice.
They were the NAPA 602-1119 mounts. www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6021119 Make sure it's the correct pulley on the P/S. I used the Dorman 300-200 which is listed at 6-7/16" OD.
Edelbrock says yes, but the 77cc will drop compression. The intake will need to be milled too. This sounds like a better option: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=oldsrocketparts&store_name=oldsrocketparts&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 I have no experience with them, so do your research.
You missed one important part. Being that the roller cam is a billet steel core, you must install a bronze shim between the camshaft and block. Not doing this, the cam will tear up the block.
Hello, I'm a frenchy who restores an olds 403 with Comp cams steel camshaft. Are you absolutely sure about that ? If yes, where this shim must be exactly placed, please ?
With the thrust plate I used, it should stop the excessive forward and back movement of the cam. Guess I'm going to find out. Hopefully not the hard way.
@hutchhiperf He's referring to the area of the block that the front of the cam rides against, right behind the timing gear. Even with a retaining plate, the steel cam can still wear the block out from rubbing against it with nothing to protect the block. The direction of rotation of the distributor gear naturally pulls the cam back into the block, and especially with thicker oil, it can be enough force to wear a groove in the block.
My next build will be an Olds 350 or 403 in a GBody for an every day driver (if I ever finish this one) I love the SB Olds engines. If you can find an older 350 from 69-72, it should make a great build. You could even find an Olds 350 DX block and use a 425 crank and bore it out to 442 cubes. That would be fun!!
The 350 is a descent motor if you can find a 1967 330 ci for the heads and forged steel crank if your doing a vale job and want new valves go with the '70 W-31 size valves there a little bigger, only thing you will have to do is put value rotators In place and if you can find a 403 ci for the connecting rods all these parts will bolt together with ease as well as a 455 Olds Toronado 5 quart oil pan and baffle will work great the wreckers should have a few of them kicking around I crossed drilled the crankshaft and champared the oil Chanel's as well as notched the connecting rods 1/2" wide @1000" deep on the big hole side to remove oil from the bottom end only do the side of the rods that face away from each other I used the factory grind 308 duration camshaft the Coles true roller timing chain advanced 4° & went with a total timing I also put oil restrictors in my motors I did quite a bit of porting & polishing I filled in the exhaust ports on the out side of the head to eliminate the low dimple area to keep all the exhaust ports separate that is an easy 15 HP gain right there as well as blocking the center exhaust ports that run under the carburetor I don't drive my motors in the winter but that is closed to 50 HP gain as well what you will be creating is a '70 W-30 style head there are a lot of tricks that can be done with these motors to make great HP without silly camshafts that half the time make it run worse my '67 330 ci has 400+ hp not bad for mostly Oldsmobile parts & my '66. 425 is pushing 525 hp the most important thing to do is have the block Aline honed, Squared up, & balanced that is a major difference like night and day right there don't worry about blueprinting that's not worth the money for a street engine my point of view is if your in heavy competition then you can waste your extra money I put the high volume oil pump sanded down the oil return gallies alone the heads valve cover outside facing fenders so they were smooth and the top center of the block I de-burred any casting and sanded that down smooth as well to help the oil get back to the bottom in the pan.
The Olds 350 has a better geometry and bore size than a small block Chevy. The Olds heads were the restriction that prevented big power. With an aftermarket head, or some work on the factory irons, an Olds 350 can be a GREAT street engine.
@@peterrivney552That would be a waste of money to put that much work into a factory head casting. There are MUCH better aftermarket alternatives for the same momey.
@peterrivney552 I wouldn't line bore/hone the block if you are using factory main caps, and the bearing bores are still good, use them. Many times, if the block is line bored, you will end up having to find a timing chain set that is shorter to make up for the loss of space between the cam and crank because of the line bore. If you are using aftermarket main caps, then you will HAVE to have the line bore done, and find a shorter timing chain set to make up for it. Personally, I wouldn't take the chance if I didn't have to.
If you have your bearing clearances correct,your wasting horsepower with a high pressure/high volume pump.if you look at an engine thats properly built with the oil pan off and you spin the oil pump with a supply of oil to the pickup, tube,,very little oil squirts out of everywhere,so a quality built engine basically dead-heads the pump and oil bypasses through the relief
Is this an Olds (Joe ) Mondello build, I see a lot of similarities that he did in an old HotRod Magazine article (when I was in my teens) featuring a silver Pontiac Trans Am?
Where did you get your rockers with the relief milled into the bottom…on my application it is tight between the radius of the stud and the bottom of a rocker similar to yours… and I need one the has been machined like yours.
They're the Harland Sharp 5016. gbodyforum.com/threads/1987-olds-442-project-build.55577/post-652240 They list as for the Bulldog Heads, but work perfect for my application. www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s5016/make/oldsmobile
When you measured the distance between pick up and sump pan you didn't add the thickness of the pan gasket there's a lot of difference between some seals that would be like saying the when you calculated the compression ratio the difference between head gaskets obviously you would use a metal head gasket if you used some aftermarket gasket it would change the compression ratio so all things must be calculated
Can't say that I have. In theory it should work I guess. Usually for interference fit stuff you freeze the "inside" one and heat the "outside" one. Might be hard to heat the whole block 🙂
this is a great video of a 455 olds rebuild. just a couple of things. GM painted the engines once they were fully assembled, so there was overspray all over them and the core plugs were painted also. not a big deal, unless your car is being judged for points at car restoration show. as far as the rear seal goes. all the Car magazines do the offset rear main seal, it has been done so much everyone things its supposed to be done like that. it's not. on engine with the rubber main seal, they are designed to be egg shaped, so that when they are put in the cap and tightened down, they become round. just like the main and rod bearings. you should never spin a crank unless the bearings are torqued to specs. the engineers call it bearing crush. same goes for the rear main seal. they are not designed to be put in off set. also, you should put a small wipe of silicone on the ends where the seals come together. there is a company (GST Racing Seals) that now makes a "one Piece" rear main seal for engine that came with 2-piece rear main seals, I use them for small block and big block chevy. but i am sure they offer them for more engines. also, some cranks, one they have been worn past a certain point or turn below .020 can have a hard time sealing against the rubber seal. ironically, Rope Seals do a better job at sealing a crank that has a grove worn in it from the seal or that has been turned below .020. as for cleaning, I use acetone to do the initial cleaning, followed by dawn, water and a whole lot of elbow grease and nylon brushes. then i hose it down, can hit all the machined surfaces with ton of WD-40 (WD stands for Water Displacement) and then blow it dry with a air hose. then i clean it again with acetone and the marvel mystery oil like you use, on all the machined surfaces like cylinders, and bearing saddles and repeat until it is clean with a white lint free cloth. one last thing. Permatex and Royal Purple assembly lube is great stuff, not knocking them in the slightest, but i live in a warm climate, so if I plan to assemble the engine in one day and fire it up the next, they work great. however, in a warm climate it will run down into the pan after a few days, and you can have a dry start up, which can kill the bearings. if I am going to assemble an engine and have it site more than say 3 days in the desert southwest heat, then i prefer to use Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly lube, it's more like a wheel bearing grease in consistency, but is designed to dissolve in engine oil. it won't run down into the pan if it gets hot in your area, like it does here in the desert southwest. it's also fantastic on roller cams. as for the cylinders, i use break-in oil on the wall when installing the piston and rings. but one all 8 are in i put a little marvel mystery oil in the top of each cylinder to provide lube to the top of the cylinder when the engine first fires off. it makes a smoky mess the first time its fired, but i give the rings a little lube during that first start. the under side of the piston get splash lube from the rods and crank almost right away, when it can take a bit for the oil to get to the rings after first fire up on a break in run.
Everyday we learn something new. This new method for adjusting the rockers/pushrods is such a great.
Joe Montello was Dr. Olds. He made several books about hi performance and race Oldsmobile engines. He passed away a long time ago. But if you can find one of his publications. It's a great source of knowledge and tech only about Oldsmobile
I've heard not much good news about his business since he stepped away and ultimately passed on, unfortunately. He was the Olds wizard for sure. At least now we have Rocket Performance and Dick Miller. Wise is sold off, from what I hear. All I know is I'm loving thay Rocket Racing block, though it's pretty costly.
Where Mondello and Dick Miller were the prominent voices a while back, the leading vocal expert would have to be Trovato now. His book "Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8's" is very knowledgeable and in depth. I have that book and have read it front to back many times. There are others, of course, but they're thinning out by the year.
@@hutchhiperfAgreed... I was going to recommend the same book.
I've read mine many times.
Love to see dyno #s on that beauty
Torching the block before painting ,especially before interior engine slick orange. That's awesome!!
@@jaymakormik6779 thank you!!
Great info. This will be my go to video for my 455 build that's going in my '83 Cutlass.
Love the video, awesome engine build. I wouldn't have used the sealant on the MLS head gaskets but would have done everything exactly the same. Great work! Awesome project!
Haha, thank you. I know. The manufacturer of that MLS was turning over in his grave haha.
Fantastic build on your Oldsmobile 455 plus your paint on the engine came out awesome just like the factory
Thank you!
Slow is fast, fast is slow. For any precision work, this is key. If you want to have real successful throughput, take your time and do things carefully and methodically. Then you can do it once with confidence you won't... cause a situation, and with it time and monetary costs. There are some things you can rush and hackjob, and this ain't one of em.
The paint job on this engine is top notch.
@@Davejust451 thank you! Just a couple of cans of spray bomb paint.
That Ellison machine shop video of lashing valves is ingenious!! And so simple how no one ever thought of it is mind bowling he turns the engine 8 1/4 split or 90' 8 times and lash every. Valve every time turn engine by time you are done it's all done none are left out
I know, it's ingenious.
Its excellent to see someone does it the way i like it.i was watching a guy build an LS style gm engine,and he says”this is the smoothest engine i ever put together”they should ALL be like yours or your not assembling it properly or its dirty.either way your wasting your money if your not meticulous.
I have a 1971 Cutlass 350. 2 barrel AC, PS. Eventually PB. 3:42 gears turbo 350 trans
Get a 4 barrel and intake. 20 more H.P. And it takes about a day. You don't have to remove the distributor on an Oldsmobile for this. You will get better gas milage too. I've done it you can too.
Thank you for Taking the time to do this video. Its Awesome.
Thank you!!
i see you did not use the book by JOE MONDELLO book on assembly of a OLDS ? there is a KIT to improve the ballance of the OILing of the mains and top end area of the engine ? to each his own / JOEs book is very good / i am building a 403 to replace the 307 in a 84 olds cutlas sup. joes shop uses engles cams , your bild looks great yet take a look at joes book and catalog knolidge is good ! good luck on the good olds engine !!!
Time has proven that the oil restriction in the mains have no practical effect. You should check out the book by Bill Trovato. It has more up to date info on the Olds engine from a guy that has raced with BB Olds for decades.
Holy Crap!!! I thought I was the only one who used Marvels Mys Oil for when building engines..
@@AtomicOverdrive I was shown that as a teenager back before cell phones and the internet 😅
@@hutchhiperf Same.. LOL.. I remember picking up a can at local parts store. Then when I got home, I was like. Hey this smells good.. hehe.. I started using it in builds as part of my break in oil (not sure if that was the smartest thing, but hey I was 16. At least I knew how to build an engine and transmission both at 16 blind folded. Todays kids need to told not to drink the battery acid.. hehe)..
Stuff is magic!!!
Nice early F2 block!
Good video a few corrections Total seal piston ring manufacturing company says never use detergent based cleaner on the bores like trans fluid ect # 2 the bearing locating notches (tangs) do not keep the bearings from spinning it is the bearing crush when the caps are torqued the tangs are simply for location of the bearing #3 when using ARP main studs you must get the block aline honed with the new studs installed they will produce different distortion than bolts not Aline honing will cause premature main bearing failure good video but a few misses
@Myvintageiron7512 #1 Your wrong #2 It's both #3 I did that. Sooooo.....
How much do you charge to do a complete rebuild on a 68 Olds 455 Rocket?
I don't, sorry.
The serpentine belt set up, what did you get that off of? Is it Oldsmobile or Chevy or what?
Let me take you on a journey my friend:
ruclips.net/video/2dO2WK1abRo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/PlZd33-1ibE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/0zQYG9kzRO8/видео.html
Enjoy
A couple of questions. I've seen the piston and ring assembly coated with oil before put in the bore ? It stops any grazes on start up till oil is circulated
I've always coated the skirt and rings on assembly. Most say to lightly oil the bore and keep the rings dry. The best answer is do as the manufacturer says. I'm set in my ways and not always right 🙂
Hey hutch. I am putting the same set up in my 87 cutlass but my power steering pulley is rubbing the gear box. I think it has to do with the motor mount being too low. If you don’t mind me asking which mounts did you use. Thanks for any advice.
They were the NAPA 602-1119 mounts. www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6021119
Make sure it's the correct pulley on the P/S. I used the Dorman 300-200 which is listed at 6-7/16" OD.
I used the oem 100085755 is the Dorman 300-200 smaller.@@hutchhiperf
What about the intake manifold and installation and carburetor?
@@billdedrick1914 check my later videos
With the Edelbrock aluminum heads fit on my 403?
Edelbrock says yes, but the 77cc will drop compression. The intake will need to be milled too.
This sounds like a better option:
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=oldsrocketparts&store_name=oldsrocketparts&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211
I have no experience with them, so do your research.
clean engine is a happy engine
A high compression Olds motor was gold small spark plugs
You missed one important part. Being that the roller cam is a billet steel core, you must install a bronze shim between the camshaft and block. Not doing this, the cam will tear up the block.
Hello, I'm a frenchy who restores an olds 403 with Comp cams steel camshaft.
Are you absolutely sure about that ? If yes, where this shim must be exactly placed, please ?
It goes over the camshaft to the back face that rides against the block. @@krisrikourt575
With the thrust plate I used, it should stop the excessive forward and back movement of the cam. Guess I'm going to find out. Hopefully not the hard way.
I like to have a Torrington roller bearing behind the cam thrust surface. Yes, you would have to machine the block or cam for this.
@hutchhiperf He's referring to the area of the block that the front of the cam rides against, right behind the timing gear. Even with a retaining plate, the steel cam can still wear the block out from rubbing against it with nothing to protect the block. The direction of rotation of the distributor gear naturally pulls the cam back into the block, and especially with thicker oil, it can be enough force to wear a groove in the block.
No plastic gauge on the crank ?
I did plastigage the crank and rods. I just didn't show it.
By the way,your an excellent guide at the task.
Thank you sir!
very cool!!!
Would you ever consider a Oldsmobile 350 build for the street with mild performance? I am getting mixed suggestions> Would love your help. Great build
My next build will be an Olds 350 or 403 in a GBody for an every day driver (if I ever finish this one) I love the SB Olds engines. If you can find an older 350 from 69-72, it should make a great build. You could even find an Olds 350 DX block and use a 425 crank and bore it out to 442 cubes. That would be fun!!
The 350 is a descent motor if you can find a 1967 330 ci for the heads and forged steel crank if your doing a vale job and want new valves go with the '70 W-31 size valves there a little bigger, only thing you will have to do is put value rotators In place and if you can find a 403 ci for the connecting rods all these parts will bolt together with ease as well as a 455 Olds Toronado 5 quart oil pan and baffle will work great the wreckers should have a few of them kicking around I crossed drilled the crankshaft and champared the oil Chanel's as well as notched the connecting rods 1/2" wide @1000" deep on the big hole side to remove oil from the bottom end only do the side of the rods that face away from each other I used the factory grind 308 duration camshaft the Coles true roller timing chain advanced 4° & went with a total timing I also put oil restrictors in my motors I did quite a bit of porting & polishing I filled in the exhaust ports on the out side of the head to eliminate the low dimple area to keep all the exhaust ports separate that is an easy 15 HP gain right there as well as blocking the center exhaust ports that run under the carburetor I don't drive my motors in the winter but that is closed to 50 HP gain as well what you will be creating is a '70 W-30 style head there are a lot of tricks that can be done with these motors to make great HP without silly camshafts that half the time make it run worse my '67 330 ci has 400+ hp not bad for mostly Oldsmobile parts & my '66. 425 is pushing 525 hp the most important thing to do is have the block Aline honed, Squared up, & balanced that is a major difference like night and day right there don't worry about blueprinting that's not worth the money for a street engine my point of view is if your in heavy competition then you can waste your extra money I put the high volume oil pump sanded down the oil return gallies alone the heads valve cover outside facing fenders so they were smooth and the top center of the block I de-burred any casting and sanded that down smooth as well to help the oil get back to the bottom in the pan.
The Olds 350 has a better geometry and bore size than a small block Chevy. The Olds heads were the restriction that prevented big power. With an aftermarket head, or some work on the factory irons, an Olds 350 can be a GREAT street engine.
@@peterrivney552That would be a waste of money to put that much work into a factory head casting.
There are MUCH better aftermarket alternatives for the same momey.
@peterrivney552 I wouldn't line bore/hone the block if you are using factory main caps, and the bearing bores are still good, use them. Many times, if the block is line bored, you will end up having to find a timing chain set that is shorter to make up for the loss of space between the cam and crank because of the line bore. If you are using aftermarket main caps, then you will HAVE to have the line bore done, and find a shorter timing chain set to make up for it. Personally, I wouldn't take the chance if I didn't have to.
If you have your bearing clearances correct,your wasting horsepower with a high pressure/high volume pump.if you look at an engine thats properly built with the oil pan off and you spin the oil pump with a supply of oil to the pickup, tube,,very little oil squirts out of everywhere,so a quality built engine basically dead-heads the pump and oil bypasses through the relief
That's why I used a standard volume pump.
Is this an Olds (Joe ) Mondello build, I see a lot of similarities that he did in an old HotRod Magazine article (when I was in my teens) featuring a silver Pontiac Trans Am?
Where did you get your rockers with the relief milled into the bottom…on my application it is tight between the radius of the stud and the bottom of a rocker similar to yours… and I need one the has been machined like yours.
They're the Harland Sharp 5016. gbodyforum.com/threads/1987-olds-442-project-build.55577/post-652240
They list as for the Bulldog Heads, but work perfect for my application. www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s5016/make/oldsmobile
Take a die grinder to yours, and make room....
Royal blue 🔵
Great video Hutch
When you measured the distance between pick up and sump pan you didn't add the thickness of the pan gasket there's a lot of difference between some seals that would be like saying the when you calculated the compression ratio the difference between head gaskets obviously you would use a metal head gasket if you used some aftermarket gasket it would change the compression ratio so all things must be calculated
It may be a minor detail but it's still attention to detail
How are you protecting your car? ??
Do you mean Insurance? I use Grundy World Wide.
what rotating assembly are you running?
Nothing fancy. Stock "N" Crank, Stock reconditioned rods, and L2323F60 Speed Pro pistons.
Have you ever seen anyone freezing a freeze plug with dry ice to install?
Can't say that I have. In theory it should work I guess. Usually for interference fit stuff you freeze the "inside" one and heat the "outside" one. Might be hard to heat the whole block 🙂
@@hutchhiperf I used to assemble gearboxes, I used a lot of dry ice.
Where are you located?
3rd planet from the sun 😇
That looks like Pontiac Blue to me.
HOW DARE YOU!!! 🤣🤣
Pontiac Blue 😁 butlerperformance.com/i-31643334-itu-pontiac-66-70-engine-paint-blue-silver-metallic-itu-inl15375.html
What are the cam specs?
❤
FYI ..."Trust But Verify" - was Ronald Reagan
Just keeping you on your toes 😁
crank too tight