We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/horsepower
How about a big block 2 stroke olds:www.4btswaps.com/threads/turning-4stroke-into-2-stroke.12888/#lg=thread-12888&slide=0, Thats a sbc but an aluminum olds drce should work for a 2 stroke conversion.
People are cutting out cable but keeping internet. RUclips is where the people are, and these videos will make more money with ad revenue than they used to make selling the DVDs.
@@mrincredible5492 It was the same thing for me. Dad was the bread winner so when we did get a chance to spend time together this was it on Sunday mornings
Jet boat applications proved how tough the Olds 455 and Ford 429/460 motors are, run wide open from one end of the lake to the other. Saw quite a few BB Chevys scatter trying to do the same. We used to say the best marine application for a Chevy is use it for an anchor!
So just found out that at 16 years old my grandfather has a 1967 Olds 442 with the 455 rocket in it rotting into the ground with a tarp on it. I’m gonna take it and build it over these next few years and have my dream car
joe taught me a lot i used a lot of his information to build a 468 olds reworked the quadrajet with one of joes kits made a bit over 600hp and almost 600ft lbs of torque it looked almost stock that was 27 years ago damm i miss those days i put that motor in a 71 chevelle it was quite the combo a 455/468 in a chevelle i can say id invest in head studs and a gear drive for this build ! if this motor doesnt get 700hp you guys need to go back to the drawing board ! nice parts
Yes, a .060 over 455 equated to 468. Joe did sell stroker kits/combos good for 480+ c.i. Some were sold as motor home upgrades using the original GMC 230 & 260 designated chassis. Since the majority of Olds 455 blocks were limited to .060 over bores, the stroked versions gave a still under square engine for lower rpm torque.
Considering these engines were rated between 275 and 400 horsepower in stock form the 456 hp/ 537 lb-ft of torque was a good number for this mild build on a vintage muscle car engine. Nicely done.
In 1970, they made over 400 hp stock...this had crank balancing, head and intake swap plus headers....seems like 475 should've been a little more respectable target...considering the engine is limited in upgrades...
@@w41duvernay never lost a race in that boat. Turbo 400 automatic, would ream out 1st gear to 60 2nd gear to 90 hit drive and it was floating never took it past about 120. I embarrassed many hot cars and vettes in that thing. My driving and knowing the car helped a lot. Lost the muffler and threw on a glass pack. It sounded bad as hell...
ALSO there was typically more cylinder wall thickness to accept a max overbore engine. Getting the EARLY non-Toronado 425 "D" blocks was the key using the normal.842 lifter bore size. If I remember right, all 425's were forged steel cranks & rods. Like a 427 Chevy bb, the engine loved to rev with the under square bore/stroke combo. The major probkem was keeping the majority of the oil down at the crank. Joe remedied the problem with oil restrictors in the main oiling passage to the crank to maximize the flow of oil to the bottom end, thus saving many bottom ends from oil starvation along with higher volume & pressure oil pumps.
glad you spotted the rooky mistakes. cam brake in is best with 2500 rpm plus!! as for timing i static time the engine and i pr-curve the dizzy so i no the total as well as base timing the instant it fires and use manifold vacuum on the distributor to get more idle vacuum as well as a cooler idel. then i fine tune using a vacuum gauge along with sum wide open throttle blasts. pull the plugs and take a reading.
750 carb works fine on a single plane intake manifold. You want to almost double that for a dual plane manifold. Each cylinder is now only breathing through half the carb. Dominator 1150 :)
From a production standpoint, these guys are TOP NOTCH video producers. Even vloggers (like I used to be) should watch and learn from the production staff that make these videos. Volume levels = Perfect! I'm not riding the volume control. Information flow = Perfect! Concise and to the point. I could go on and on but my food is ready. Later.
After several small block chevelles, wrecking my 64, bought my first Oldsmobile cutlass supreme 1970,Rocket 350, never went back to chevy small block since! I love my Rockets 👍👍👍
VACUUM ADVANCE: Disappointed to see two supposedly 'pro' engine builders thinking that a leaky vacuum advance hose is going to steal all their horsepower. At 12:15, he says he's found the problem, in that the leaky hose is 'preventing the distributor from pulling full advance' and insinuating that this is the root issue why they are missing some 100+ hp. Perhaps we should review how & when vacuum advance works and what it's for. (Please forgive the following cut-n-paste from an article I wrote some years ago for a local gearhead newsletter) -Two advance mechanisms in most older points type and HEI distributors: mechanical advance and vacuum advance. Mechanical simply relies on engine speed to fling weights around and cause the rotor to pivot a bit opposite the normal direction of rotation and allow the spark to be advanced. Most mechanical advance setups provide about 25° to 35° of total advance (total = initial idle advance setting + the mechanical advance provided at engine speed), generally all in by 3400 rpm or thereabouts. -The vacuum advance works strictly on engine vacuum (either ported vacuum [vacuum above the throttle plates] or manifold vacuum taken straight from the intake manifold...ported vacuum was a BS emissions trick that didn't work worth a crap, so 60's and early 70's muscle cars and engines used manifold vacuum almost exclusively...the ported vacuum engines were mostly mid-to-late 70's and early 80's). Engines only have any appreciable vacuum at idle and small throttle openings, so there's your hint as to 'when' the vacuum advance will be functional. -To dig deeper, know that the ease with which an air-fuel mixture ignites and the speed at which it burns is closely related to how rich or lean the mixture is. A richer mixture lights quickly and burns fast (within reason...a super-rich mix will soak the spark plug and cause a miss). A lean mixture is harder to light and burns slower. If we're talking about a track-only vehicle here, with a big cam that allows little idle vacuum and where the car is being thrashed almost constantly, a vacuum advance is never given a chance to do anything or the engine is incapable of generating any appreciable vacuum. The distributors on many older racing engines don't even have provisions for a vacuum advance canister. -But any car that is regularly driven on the street needs that vacuum advance. Why? Smoother idle, for one (at least with manifold vacuum...ported vacuum setups have no vacuum advance at idle, so their idle might be sucky, especially on a built engine). But the real reason is at highway speed...cruising. Tooling down the road at 60 mph, the throttle is barely open, so the mixture is very lean...which is fine. We don't need a lot of power to cruise down the road. But, if all we have for advance is the 30° to 35° from the mechanical advance, we're getting a crap burn from that lean mixture. It's lighting way too late, and can even cause header & exhaust manifolds to glow cherry-red, as the burn is happening so late it's completing in the heads' exhaust passage and even downstream from there. That's power that is not being used to propel a piston down the bore. That's big power lost and fuel wasted. -So the obvious answer is to use the available vacuum that we get at cruising speed to further advance the timing. The advance unit simply has a rubber diaphragm that connects to an arm that pulls on the breaker plate (or the plate that the HEI triggers are mounted to) and the plate rotates around the center to provide an earlier trigger for the spark. A vacuum advance unit can advance the timing 20° to 25° beyond what the mechanical advance is capable of. So yes, bopping down the highway on a lazy day can mean the timing might be advanced as much as 55° or even more. Lean mixtures under little load can take big chunks of advance with no pinging/detonation issues. Stomp on the throttle, and the intake reverts back to atmospheric pressure pretty much instantly, and timing drops back to whatever the mechanical advance supplies, and no pinging (as long as your fuel doesn't suck). And when it comes to fill-up time, your wallet will thank you. (end article) So you can see why the assertion that a bad vacuum advance hose is stealing horsepower on the dyno is a silly one. The only time there's any vacuum in this case is at idle...the rest of the time the throttle is WFO trying to make lots of dyno horsepower and manifold vacuum is non-existent. Worst-case scenario is they mighta leaned the mixture a tad, but a small vacuum leak like that isn't going to screw you out of 100+ hp. Anyway, sorry for the freaking book here...just seems that with newer cars everywhere no one remembers (or ever knew) what vacuum advance was for or how it works. ✌-out
Understand that I'm not intending to disparage these gentlemen. Tired, late, frustrated, looking for the source of problems and you find something and run with it without thinking it through.
The only way the vacuum advance would work at WOT is if you connected it to ported vacuum. When it’s connected to manifold vacuum even moderate throttle (under a load) will not produce enough vacuum to move the advance.
Their Is not anything special about this motor, The dual plane Intake Is killing this motor to, The 455 ranged from 250 ho to 400 from the factory, So say it was a 350 hp stock It picked up over 100 hp and that's not bad at all.
I went to his head school out in California back in 99'. Joe was a straight shooter with a ton of knowledge and the shop was beautiful. "Keep it moving" he used to say!
Those same mods on a 454 Chevy would be well over 500 hp. They did the 454 with stock heads and low compression pistons and made 408 hp. Then they installed dome pistols aluminum heads roller cam and had over 600 hp.
Yeah, BBCs pretty well crush every other GM big block. Frankly, there's no reason to build any GM engine besides LS variants and BBCs over 572 unless you just have to have a matching brand motor for a mild build.
@@member5488 the aftermarket really caters to the sbc/ bbc crowd. In terms of aftermarket support no other engine platform has access to as many good parts. In any N/A application cylinder heads are for the most part the deciding factor in terms of peak hp n compared to Buick Olds n Pontiac the options are endless for sbc n bbc.
These fine gentlemen are artists. They just need more episodes that revolve around using EFI. I die a little bit inside every time I see them do these wonderful builds and then strap a carb on top.
This shit is 10 years old. It's not like putting a Holley Sniper or FiTech like nowadays. Plus for easy break in on very sensitive flat tappet cams, the carb RULES!!
I had a one on theses on a jet boat in the mid seventies when I was a kid and gas was cheap. It was said to be high performance 390 horsepower. I don’t how many thousands of gallons of gas I put through it and most of it at WOT. When I sold it, it smoked a bit at start, probably valve guides. It had a Holly spread bore 750 double pumper on it when it came from factory. The only problem I had was the fuel pump had a check valve the would at random times hang up and loose pressure. That drove me crazy because it would work when you tried diagnose. The only mod was a rev limiter so I didn’t have to lift between waves. Dam I beat the heck out of it......and it lived.
The best way to adjust valves hydraulic or solid is to roll the crank over, go from cylinder to cylinder and as each intake valve starts to close you adjust the exhaust valve and then when the exhaust valve begins to open you adjust the intake valve. If you have a lot of overlap it ensures your on base circle.
+30 is 461 on the 455 Olds. It needs an advance curve kit,a 4-hole 2" spacer on that intake and a 800 cfm webber afb carb. Use the C casting heads if you can find any,and port like Joe. You will have about 505 hp and over 600 tq. This engine ruined my 85 Cutless with the tq twist. It actually popped my rear window out on a hard launch. Use a chain to the frame rail from the head or it will break the engine mount. Have fun folks!
Edelbrock heads you better take them apart cause the guides will leak. And never pump up any howards / morel roller lifters . or any anti pump up lifters . VR1 Valvoline high zinc and a bottle of zinc additive. Never had a cam issue and break in cam vary the rpm every 5 minutes for 30 minutes from 2000 to 2700 rpm. Like 2200 , 2400 , 2500 , 2700 then back down. So oil is slung off crank at different angles onto the camshaft.
And no one cares about your stupid comment either hotep........ And he never said oil Is sprayed from the crankshaft, Like to old saying goes, Some kids are better seen and not hard from.
Great freakin channel guys. I love when you tear down the 5.3 junkyard find. I did a 350 to a 383 stroker in my 1987 formula. The TPI loves the new powerhouse.
@@josuepaz9446 the muff, a woman's crotch, the bush Apparently, it's something used in bow hunting but of all bow hunters I know, I've never heard that term used
I have a whisker biskit arrow rest on my bow. I use it when im elk hunting. I have never heard anyone call a hoo haw that... so basically he said to the other guy, "You ready pussy?"
You don't pick up 20+hp because of "cool dry air", unless you're using uncorrected numbers, which aren't repeatable. They fudged they dyno correction just enough to get the 1hp per cube, so it doesn't look bad.
I had one of these on a 69 Vista Cruiser...HOLY SMOKES!! Turbo 400 trans and Posi rear...it was a real beast..lots of fun to drive. 250K later my brother took it apart to rebuild it it was in good spec and still had honing marks on the cylinder walls. Great motor!!! TORQUE GALORE. He has put it is several cars over the years, he says he will never get rid of that block. One more thing these are getting hard to find in Bone Yards...Nothing else sounds like a 455!! The only thing I would do different is go with a twin turbo, on Natural gas..That would go to 500HP.
@@attitudeadjusted9027 4:02 He says "we've been soaking our Comp hydraulic lifters...." Nothing about rollers or solid, and of course you can see for yourself that he has flat tappet lifters in his hand.
Love my Oldsmobiles and I put a 455olds in a 77nova rally SS and you talking about badass, it was a bone stock engine and we raced a guy who had a short bed Ford pickup and he had a big block in it and over$4000, dollars in high performance parts and the nova blowed the doors off the Ford 🤣🤣🤣
Blue started after 74 or 75...350 and 455 were both gold before and blue after...had 71 and 75 Toro with 455 and cutlasses with 350...ten bolts in valve covers on gold engines...five bolts in blue...technically speaking, no such thing as small block/big block olds...engine blocks are same size...different bores and strokes...
They didn't mention oil galley restrictors in the main saddles , cam spacer or bushing to stop cam from walking forward and back. Did a Mondello build in 1990 and most pieces had to come from Joe. They had just started testing billet MSD distributor with vacuum for the street.
12:06 The first thing they teach you school is that the vac system plays no part in the ignition timing at WOT but it is very important for part throttle driving.
I remember watching these guys when I was 18, they had 3 guys on this show. I remember when Mike join there show and they did the “pocket rocket” the Honda Civic. Along with many other cool cars they had built. Love this show! Wish Stacey David was back on under the”Trucks” he used to build.
John Ulicky yes, I like the show(Gearz) but think trucks was better, just my opinion. I wish he’d show gears was a few hours long! I could watch Stacey David building and work on stuff for hours! He knows his stuff and has just crazy ideas!
One HP / CI used to be THE elusive ultimate dream target goal of ALL hot rod engine builders with the normally aspirated. Today? - Many ways to get there! With the same block and rotating assembly practically. I bought an Olds '98 brand new off the showroom in 1972. Drove it 6 or 7 times then put it in storage for some years while overseas, came back to it just in time for the gas crunch. Had a '76 VW bus. YUP! An Olds 455 in a pretty VW bus that everyone thought they would pass. nope. nope. HA! The honking they did when they didn't get the results they expected.
I can tell you guys one thing the Olds 455 makes a really great Tractor motor for pulling blades across your lower 40 and when done makes a great Boat anchor...
455 Olds were never HP engines, they were torque engines, keep them below 5000 rpm and they live forever. The 4.125 bore was small for HP but the 4.250 stroke made up in torque.
Um... a small vacume leak at the distributor isn't going to effect timing at WOT...you know, when there is almost no vacume. It will lean the engine out slightly though, depending on were the vacume is sourced.
Thanks so much for showing this. I'm an Oldsmobile guy from way back when. If you can find one I'd love to see you guys work on an Oldsmobile 425, specifically the one they used to put in the 66 and 67 Toronado. I'm looking to buy a 67 Toronado and would be interested to hear your comments on rebuilding it. It would need to keep the stock intake and exhaust manifolds and oil pan to fit, and I'd want to keep it looking stock too, but what could be done? Thanks again!
@@spaceghost8995, the Oldsmobile 425 was not a Cadillac motor. It was descended from the original Oldsmobile "Rocket" V8 from the late 40s. It went to a 455 the year after my Toronado was built. The 66 and 67 Toronados had a special high performance version of the Oldsmobile 425. Cadillac's 425 was completely different, designed around the 472 in the 70s.
@@SirAndacar It's a great motor you got. I built a 66 toro motor & put it in an '80 Salon & the thing did wheelstands on street tires w/3.73 rear. Engle cam. B heads. Torker/holley #6213
@@Torch4Life, thanks for the reply! I should have clarified. I used to have a 67 Toronado way back in the early 80s and I miss it terribly. When I get another one I would be building the engine for long distance cruising and torque, not racing. I'd also be rebuilding the Turbo Hydramatic 425 front wheel drive transmission for heavier duty and longer life. I know a guy who is a genius with Quadrajets, so I'd stick with the stock carb as well.
@@SirAndacar Makes perfect sense. My example is probably rare, i was very pleased with how it was so willing to make power. I kinda grew up on 455s & it was my only attempt w/a 425, so your posting about them brought back fond memories. 18436572 for life.
Yes but this is pretty much a shelf build that anyone can do. If they changed a few things they could make more power fairly easy. They definitely need to get them fuckin rocker arms off of it!!!! Gotta sell shit though! Put some pro magnums on if you are not going to shaft mount!!! All day power increase from rigidity
I have one in my boat. It’s runs for hours on end at 4500 rpm. Like 2 hours at 4500 rpm no letting off. oil pressure and water temp will never change, she is dialed in perfectly.
4:30 Some people apply a vacuum pump to the oil container. That makes the job go much more quickly. 11:37 Actually it would need to be a little more than 455. I'm not sure what overbore this engine has, but it has resulted in more cubes.
Whoa....stock 455 W 30 supposedly makes 370 horsepower...what cam did they run? Not sure I caught that..Those Edelbrock heads had huge valves....2.19 Int and were they 1.84? exhausts? Hmm, yeah, that manifold could be suspect. Many years ago I built a 455 +.030, stock "C" casting heads, Lunati .570 lift solid cam, with 255 degree @ .050 , 2 inch Hooker headers 800 Holley D.P. Q-jet replacement carb, (spread bore) on an Edelbrock single plane intake. With stock 10.5 to 1 compression, the motor made 485 horses....(don't recall torque). Ran 11.50's at 117 with a 9 inch tire in a 68 Cutlass...
How can you be so off from the start? They picked up 120 hp with timing and a carb swap with jetting. I built a 455 in the 80s that made this kind of power with stock c heads. What a joke.
maybe you just think you were making 455 horsepower with stock parts...you know, 335 hp with 500 foot pounds makes for one hell of a burn out machine so im sure it was a mad car but imagine what it would have been like with 455 hp
stickloaf yeah maybe I just imagined me going 11.80s @ 113 weighing close to 4000 in a 70 cutlass. I’m not speaking from theory I speaking from facts. They should have made 500+. Hp
@@rle1020 do you realize how many people say it's not possible to get 500 hp from olds 455??? Expensive, but possible...just have to do it under 5000 rpm...they like the foot stomp but not the wind up like a 327 chevy....
#1 NEVER pre- pump up lifters #2 vacuum advance is for station wagons, less vacuum on load = less advance . best set up for HP engine is no vacuum advance 30 regular 32 hi-test 34-38 race gas total timing . I enjoy your show but check what your doing and saying young pups!
@@timsharpe3498 When you step on the gas you lose manifold vacuum in turn your timing is reduced, its and antique knock prevention , how are you going to make hi power with 1/3 less timing?
An old fashioned distributor has about 15 to 20 degrees of centrifugal advance. When you add that to the initial timing you get total timing which is everything an engine needs at wide open throttle. Vacuum advance is for part throttle only.
I had this motor in my 65 Cutlass back in the late 80's. I had so much trouble getting the rubber seal under the front of the intake manifold stay in. Seemed like once a month I was putting in a new one. Now you guys don't even use a rubber seal. I wish that silicone existed back then. Or maybe it did and I just didn't know about it.
As I young man I never did get around to playing with cars/engines as I would have liked. Now in my 60s I know I have missed out. Watching this I can't help but think of all the joy that will be missed by youngsters of today as we get away from I.C.E. Worse is the nightmare of young men, sipping lattes, bragging about the virtues of their Transit Passes... P.S: I still haven't got around to building the motorized go kart, I have dreamt of since I was 8 years old. I did buy a brand new 6HP engine about 15 years ago, it is still in the box. Maybe this Year? Also have an '86 Ford Ranger 4x4 I would love to do a total restoration on.....'time keeps on, slippin', into the future.....'
Nope, the factory intake could never make even 400hp... not going to happen. Been building Olds engines for 30 years, my guy, and never seen a factory intake go over 400hp, and be fickle as hell on a HP engine when it's hot outside.
And another thing! As my old high school janitor once said, when I asked him if he wanted to drag his ‘65 Impala against my dad’s olds 98, he said, “Oldsmobile? SHEEEEEEIT!” LOL
@@yamahaguy1732 I don't know where you get your information at but a 1" carb spacer is good for between 10 and 15hp on most intake manifolds. Go either side and you will still gain but not as much. This is an old of a hot rodders trick as indexing the spark plugs and icing the intake between rounds.
Im right there with you on the spacer thing..I thought that's what he was gonna do when he stayed late! aside from a little bit larger plenum area you get a longer radius when air fuel mixture is making that 90 degree turn from the carb throats to the intake manifold ports.
Those TV shows are basically 30 minute advertising gimmicks to flood autozone o'Reilly's and jegs with cardboard box "builders"......everyone wants a race car but not so many know how or where to find the hidden horsies without spending a boatload of cash!
Fred Mendez I would agree. I think this is a very old episode and Mike was still cutting his teeth. He’s learned a lot since Pat joined the show and that’s what hotrodding is all about. Learn something new everyday👍
Theres just no way electric cars will ever be as fun as a car with something like this in it. Yeah they got crazy acceleration but you just cant beat the feeling of rippin something like this down the street & strip.
'Since I couldn't sleep' and precedes to show a darked out shop; highly implying that he was SO dedicated that he went in and worked that night. Nice try, but next time, try to be mindful of the DAYLIGHT peeking in through the expansion joint on the wall 13:54 and also try to remember that computers display the TIME, lol 14:00. Oopsie! Lame-ass, unnecessary drama...
We'll continue to post these episodes here on RUclips. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/horsepower
Paint the waterpump to match the engine.
loving these episodes! keep them
coming!
PowerNation what are the cam spec?
How about a big block 2 stroke olds:www.4btswaps.com/threads/turning-4stroke-into-2-stroke.12888/#lg=thread-12888&slide=0, Thats a sbc but an aluminum olds drce should work for a 2 stroke conversion.
The 455 is not supposed to be gold it's supposed to be blue
I remember growing up watching these show. So glad they are posting them to youtube now
People are cutting out cable but keeping internet. RUclips is where the people are, and these videos will make more money with ad revenue than they used to make selling the DVDs.
Think it was on sundays for me good times my pop's and i would watch them eating breakfast in the living room.
@@mrincredible5492 It was the same thing for me. Dad was the bread winner so when we did get a chance to spend time together this was it on Sunday mornings
When were these filmed?
Vi Topher most 10 years ago
Jet boat applications proved how tough the Olds 455 and Ford 429/460 motors are, run wide open from one end of the lake to the other. Saw quite a few BB Chevys scatter trying to do the same. We used to say the best marine application for a Chevy is use it for an anchor!
Hate to break it to you it's not the motor it's the Builder and operator
So just found out that at 16 years old my grandfather has a 1967 Olds 442 with the 455 rocket in it rotting into the ground with a tarp on it. I’m gonna take it and build it over these next few years and have my dream car
joe taught me a lot i used a lot of his information to build a 468 olds reworked the quadrajet with one of joes kits made a bit over 600hp and almost 600ft lbs of torque it looked almost stock that was 27 years ago damm i miss those days i put that motor in a 71 chevelle it was quite the combo a 455/468 in a chevelle i can say id invest in head studs and a gear drive for this build ! if this motor doesnt get 700hp you guys need to go back to the drawing board ! nice parts
I doubt it made that kind of power with a stock bottom end.
Only made 455 HP from a 461"...
Yes, a .060 over 455 equated to 468. Joe did sell stroker kits/combos good for 480+ c.i. Some were sold as motor home upgrades using the original GMC 230 & 260 designated chassis. Since the majority of Olds 455 blocks were limited to .060 over bores, the stroked versions gave a still under square engine for lower rpm torque.
Had to add a comment to get away from that evil number. RIP Joe you are definitely a legend and pioneer for us Olds guys
Did Joe die?
Considering these engines were rated between 275 and 400 horsepower in stock form the 456 hp/ 537 lb-ft of torque was a good number for this mild build on a vintage muscle car engine. Nicely done.
In 1970, they made over 400 hp stock...this had crank balancing, head and intake swap plus headers....seems like 475 should've been a little more respectable target...considering the engine is limited in upgrades...
Had a 70 olds 98 455 rated low at 390hp 510 lbs ft of tourqe. Stock olds rocks.
SHOULD have threw on some headers and swapped the cam out to a 230 dur @ .050s.
@@w41duvernay I was 17 and stupid. I regret losing that car :(
@@w41duvernay never lost a race in that boat. Turbo 400 automatic, would ream out 1st gear to 60 2nd gear to 90 hit drive and it was floating never took it past about 120. I embarrassed many hot cars and vettes in that thing. My driving and knowing the car helped a lot. Lost the muffler and threw on a glass pack. It sounded bad as hell...
I had a 425 Olds in a 66 that was flogged hard and regularly. Toughest big bore engine I ever saw.
425 had a forged crank. Yep, tough as nails.
Well in one video, reviewer told Hurst engines weren't that strong as compared to others!
ALSO there was typically more cylinder wall thickness to accept a max overbore engine. Getting the EARLY non-Toronado 425 "D" blocks was the key using the normal.842 lifter bore size. If I remember right, all 425's were forged steel cranks & rods. Like a 427 Chevy bb, the engine loved to rev with the under square bore/stroke combo. The major probkem was keeping the majority of the oil down at the crank. Joe remedied the problem with oil restrictors in the main oiling passage to the crank to maximize the flow of oil to the bottom end, thus saving many bottom ends from oil starvation along with higher volume & pressure oil pumps.
Im glad to see oldsmobile get a lil love on this show been watching this on sat morning every weekend for yrs go old s 🚀🚀🚀
I appreciate that you guys showed when you goofed up a bit. It shows that youre human and can make mistakes.
TIMING (vacuum advance) and VALVE adjustment (pre pump lifters) After 30 years Still finding same old mistakes!
glad you spotted the rooky mistakes. cam brake in is best with 2500 rpm plus!! as for timing i static time the engine and i pr-curve the dizzy so i no the total as well as base timing the instant it fires and use manifold vacuum on the distributor to get more idle vacuum as well as a cooler idel. then i fine tune using a vacuum gauge along with sum wide open throttle blasts. pull the plugs and take a reading.
Worse: Look closely 00:47 re-using stock flat tappet cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
Those olds are clean, compact, and simple.
This is why the 442 was a hemi killer back in the day
🧢🧢🧢
Nope. They were quick but not Hemi killer status. Give that to the Buick 455 Stage I
750 carb works fine on a single plane intake manifold. You want to almost double that for a dual plane manifold. Each cylinder is now only breathing through half the carb. Dominator 1150 :)
From a production standpoint, these guys are TOP NOTCH video producers. Even vloggers (like I used to be) should watch and learn from the production staff that make these videos. Volume levels = Perfect! I'm not riding the volume control. Information flow = Perfect! Concise and to the point. I could go on and on but my food is ready. Later.
After several small block chevelles, wrecking my 64, bought my first Oldsmobile cutlass supreme 1970,Rocket 350, never went back to chevy small block since! I love my Rockets 👍👍👍
VACUUM ADVANCE: Disappointed to see two supposedly 'pro' engine builders thinking that a leaky vacuum advance hose is going to steal all their horsepower. At 12:15, he says he's found the problem, in that the leaky hose is 'preventing the distributor from pulling full advance' and insinuating that this is the root issue why they are missing some 100+ hp. Perhaps we should review how & when vacuum advance works and what it's for.
(Please forgive the following cut-n-paste from an article I wrote some years ago for a local gearhead newsletter)
-Two advance mechanisms in most older points type and HEI distributors: mechanical advance and vacuum advance. Mechanical simply relies on engine speed to fling weights around and cause the rotor to pivot a bit opposite the normal direction of rotation and allow the spark to be advanced. Most mechanical advance setups provide about 25° to 35° of total advance (total = initial idle advance setting + the mechanical advance provided at engine speed), generally all in by 3400 rpm or thereabouts.
-The vacuum advance works strictly on engine vacuum (either ported vacuum [vacuum above the throttle plates] or manifold vacuum taken straight from the intake manifold...ported vacuum was a BS emissions trick that didn't work worth a crap, so 60's and early 70's muscle cars and engines used manifold vacuum almost exclusively...the ported vacuum engines were mostly mid-to-late 70's and early 80's). Engines only have any appreciable vacuum at idle and small throttle openings, so there's your hint as to 'when' the vacuum advance will be functional.
-To dig deeper, know that the ease with which an air-fuel mixture ignites and the speed at which it burns is closely related to how rich or lean the mixture is. A richer mixture lights quickly and burns fast (within reason...a super-rich mix will soak the spark plug and cause a miss). A lean mixture is harder to light and burns slower. If we're talking about a track-only vehicle here, with a big cam that allows little idle vacuum and where the car is being thrashed almost constantly, a vacuum advance is never given a chance to do anything or the engine is incapable of generating any appreciable vacuum. The distributors on many older racing engines don't even have provisions for a vacuum advance canister.
-But any car that is regularly driven on the street needs that vacuum advance. Why? Smoother idle, for one (at least with manifold vacuum...ported vacuum setups have no vacuum advance at idle, so their idle might be sucky, especially on a built engine). But the real reason is at highway speed...cruising. Tooling down the road at 60 mph, the throttle is barely open, so the mixture is very lean...which is fine. We don't need a lot of power to cruise down the road. But, if all we have for advance is the 30° to 35° from the mechanical advance, we're getting a crap burn from that lean mixture. It's lighting way too late, and can even cause header & exhaust manifolds to glow cherry-red, as the burn is happening so late it's completing in the heads' exhaust passage and even downstream from there. That's power that is not being used to propel a piston down the bore. That's big power lost and fuel wasted.
-So the obvious answer is to use the available vacuum that we get at cruising speed to further advance the timing. The advance unit simply has a rubber diaphragm that connects to an arm that pulls on the breaker plate (or the plate that the HEI triggers are mounted to) and the plate rotates around the center to provide an earlier trigger for the spark. A vacuum advance unit can advance the timing 20° to 25° beyond what the mechanical advance is capable of. So yes, bopping down the highway on a lazy day can mean the timing might be advanced as much as 55° or even more. Lean mixtures under little load can take big chunks of advance with no pinging/detonation issues. Stomp on the throttle, and the intake reverts back to atmospheric pressure pretty much instantly, and timing drops back to whatever the mechanical advance supplies, and no pinging (as long as your fuel doesn't suck). And when it comes to fill-up time, your wallet will thank you.
(end article)
So you can see why the assertion that a bad vacuum advance hose is stealing horsepower on the dyno is a silly one. The only time there's any vacuum in this case is at idle...the rest of the time the throttle is WFO trying to make lots of dyno horsepower and manifold vacuum is non-existent. Worst-case scenario is they mighta leaned the mixture a tad, but a small vacuum leak like that isn't going to screw you out of 100+ hp.
Anyway, sorry for the freaking book here...just seems that with newer cars everywhere no one remembers (or ever knew) what vacuum advance was for or how it works. ✌-out
So much little shit like that flies under radar to most people!
no vacuum at full throttle.
Duh! And at least one of these guys is old enough to remember this! I don’t know, it is a tv show, maybe they’re actors reading a script?
Understand that I'm not intending to disparage these gentlemen. Tired, late, frustrated, looking for the source of problems and you find something and run with it without thinking it through.
The only way the vacuum advance would work at WOT is if you connected it to ported vacuum. When it’s connected to manifold vacuum even moderate throttle (under a load) will not produce enough vacuum to move the advance.
A good Qjet may be better... Oldsmobile engines seem to just love em.
1hp per cube don't take into account the overbore.
Underrated comment
Their Is not anything special about this motor, The dual plane Intake Is killing this motor to, The 455 ranged from 250 ho to 400 from the factory, So say it was a 350 hp stock It picked up over 100 hp and that's not bad at all.
(4.156÷2)sq x pi x 4.250 x 8 = *461.23 ci*
Exactly
I miss Joe, he was a legend.
I went to his head school out in California back in 99'. Joe was a straight shooter with a ton of knowledge and the shop was beautiful. "Keep it moving" he used to say!
His son Bernard has his own shop now in Corona.
@@michaelhorgan9525 anyone take over Joe Shermans shop? Another legend gone
You may want to check your math..joe bored the cylinders .030 over increasing the cubic displacement to I think about 468 so keep tuning
461 Charles.. 468 is .060
@@sterlingarcher8441 Beat me :-)
More exactly 454.6, 461.2 and 467.9 CID respectively.
@@gordowg1wg145 beat me my name is cutty468 lol
mine was 060 / 468 over , it ran for 4 years up until i sold the chevelle i had it in those were the days
Yep, not quite one HP per cube yet...
Nice to see that things aren't always perfect first time out for TV...
The trouble shooting is the BEST part of these dyno runs.
the intake manifold is holding it back
The camshaft too. The one used, would be better in a small block 350-403CI.
There was an update many years later and they did upgrade the camshaft and the intake and it made a bit more power.
@@brightstarlastname2812 I was amazed Joe did not make them put an Engle cam.
Needs a Air Gap intake
@@lamontwhitehead1809 that is an rpm airgap
Those same mods on a 454 Chevy would be well over 500 hp. They did the 454 with stock heads and low compression pistons and made 408 hp. Then they installed dome pistols aluminum heads roller cam and had over 600 hp.
Yeah, BBCs pretty well crush every other GM big block. Frankly, there's no reason to build any GM engine besides LS variants and BBCs over 572 unless you just have to have a matching brand motor for a mild build.
@@member5488 the aftermarket really caters to the sbc/ bbc crowd. In terms of aftermarket support no other engine platform has access to as many good parts. In any N/A application cylinder heads are for the most part the deciding factor in terms of peak hp n compared to Buick Olds n Pontiac the options are endless for sbc n bbc.
frankly you should try to keep your head out of your ass and mind your own fucking business.opinions are like assholes member 548.
Big block Chevrolets definitely make more power but the olds mobiles engines seam like torque monsters
It’s got a lot to do with the stroke arrangement with the olds.
What a torque monster. I love big blocks!!
Make a 2 stroke out of an aluminum DRCE like this SBC:www.4btswaps.com/threads/turning-4stroke-into-2-stroke.12888/#lg=thread-12888&slide=0
If you guys used a torker intake, you could've got the 500 a lot faster.
Awesome 455 big block,thanks for sharing.
These fine gentlemen are artists. They just need more episodes that revolve around using EFI. I die a little bit inside every time I see them do these wonderful builds and then strap a carb on top.
Ain't you the superior one...
Guess you just can't figure that old school shit out. Maybe you should give it a try.
I grew up on both. There is no guesswork with a computer when you know what you are doing. It's how Ford designed the new 7.3. Grow up.
This shit is 10 years old. It's not like putting a Holley Sniper or FiTech like nowadays. Plus for easy break in on very sensitive flat tappet cams, the carb RULES!!
@@vendediesel Ive built engines for a living for the last 35+yrs, I believe I'm grown, boy....
I had a one on theses on a jet boat in the mid seventies when I was a kid and gas was cheap. It was said to be high performance 390 horsepower. I don’t how many thousands of gallons of gas I put through it and most of it at WOT. When I sold it, it smoked a bit at start, probably valve guides. It had a Holly spread bore 750 double pumper on it when it came from factory. The only problem I had was the fuel pump had a check valve the would at random times hang up and loose pressure. That drove me crazy because it would work when you tried diagnose. The only mod was a rev limiter so I didn’t have to lift between waves. Dam I beat the heck out of it......and it lived.
Awesome episode, great show. This needs to be back on TV.
That flat performer intake is killing that engine
You guys being Chevy everything don't seem to understand that a Olds 455 is a long stroke torque motor. This is why they are so popular in jet boats.
Whisker biscuit? More than cubic inches on your mind.
The best way to adjust valves hydraulic or solid is to roll the crank over, go from cylinder to cylinder and as each intake valve starts to close you adjust the exhaust valve and then when the exhaust valve begins to open you adjust the intake valve. If you have a lot of overlap it ensures your on base circle.
I’d love to see a test with a single plane intake and a Holley Dominator. It still seems about 50 horsepower low.
or a well setup tunnel ram and solid flat tappet
+30 is 461 on the 455 Olds. It needs an advance curve kit,a 4-hole 2" spacer on that intake and a 800 cfm webber afb carb. Use the C casting heads if you can find any,and port like Joe. You will have about 505 hp and over 600 tq. This engine ruined my 85 Cutless with the tq twist. It actually popped my rear window out on a hard launch. Use a chain to the frame rail from the head or it will break the engine mount. Have fun folks!
This build 00:47 re-using stock flat tappet cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
Thank you for posting these. So hard to find here in Australia
Well Australia is the only place with ford barra motors, makes us Americans pretty jealous
EVERYTHING WAS GOING SO WELL UNTIL THAT SUMMIT 750 CARB CAME OUT
I had a 455 in a 79 olds and it was a big sleeper! It had torque for days
Man that red looks horrid on those seats🤢
And all over the floor..
Who told him that looked good???
I’m not too sure myself but first thought was same omg that not attractive at all ....
The blue tape even looked better.
2.24, an adjustable wrench? Seriously? 😳🤯
Those front covers should stay loose until the balancer is on as if its not square the balancer seal will leak.
Edelbrock heads you better take them apart cause the guides will leak. And never pump up any howards / morel roller lifters . or any anti pump up lifters . VR1 Valvoline high zinc and a bottle of zinc additive. Never had a cam issue and break in cam vary the rpm every 5 minutes for 30 minutes from 2000 to 2700 rpm. Like 2200 , 2400 , 2500 , 2700 then back down. So oil is slung off crank at different angles onto the camshaft.
And no one cares about your stupid comment either hotep........ And he never said oil Is sprayed from the crankshaft, Like to old saying goes, Some kids are better seen and not hard from.
Great freakin channel guys. I love when you tear down the 5.3 junkyard find. I did a 350 to a 383 stroker in my 1987 formula. The TPI loves the new powerhouse.
They've got a different definition of "whisker biscuit" than I do...
Same here.
What does it mean ?
@@josuepaz9446
the muff, a woman's crotch, the bush
Apparently, it's something used in bow hunting but of all bow hunters I know, I've never heard that term used
Mmm, now I’m hungry...thanks bro.
I have a whisker biskit arrow rest on my bow. I use it when im elk hunting. I have never heard anyone call a hoo haw that... so basically he said to the other guy, "You ready pussy?"
My very first car was a '72 Olds Delta 88, 455 4 barrel. Great car, but a little hard on Gas.....
You don't pick up 20+hp because of "cool dry air", unless you're using uncorrected numbers, which aren't repeatable. They fudged they dyno correction just enough to get the 1hp per cube, so it doesn't look bad.
I had one of these on a 69 Vista Cruiser...HOLY SMOKES!! Turbo 400 trans and Posi rear...it was a real beast..lots of fun to drive. 250K later my brother took it apart to rebuild it it was in good spec and still had honing marks on the cylinder walls. Great motor!!! TORQUE GALORE. He has put it is several cars over the years, he says he will never get rid of that block. One more thing these are getting hard to find in Bone Yards...Nothing else sounds like a 455!! The only thing I would do different is go with a twin turbo, on Natural gas..That would go to 500HP.
"I'm not showing you what we do." As he puts the lifter he just pre pumped into the motor...
🤣😂
Yeah but they said it has solid lifters?????? This is total BS.
@@BigDaddy-fx4nx no actually he said it was a hydraulic roller.
@@attitudeadjusted9027 4:02 He says "we've been soaking our Comp hydraulic lifters...." Nothing about rollers or solid, and of course you can see for yourself that he has flat tappet lifters in his hand.
For the record don’t pump up your hydraulic lifters
OLDS POWER for the WIN!
No vacuum at wide open throttle boys.😨
Love my Oldsmobiles and I put a 455olds in a 77nova rally SS and you talking about badass, it was a bone stock engine and we raced a guy who had a short bed Ford pickup and he had a big block in it and over$4000, dollars in high performance parts and the nova blowed the doors off the Ford 🤣🤣🤣
Wasn't gold for the small blocks?
330's 350's etc.
Blue for the big blocks.....
Red for some early 425 big blocks bronze for 68 to 72 big blocks blue after that
@@jeffflaig362 Soooo only Gold for small blocks.
WTF who gives a rats ass what color the FUCKING engine is? DUMB FUCK HEADS!
330, and 350 were gold. 400 were bronze. 425 were red. 455 were red in 68, and 69. Then 455 were blue from 70 on thru 76.
Blue started after 74 or 75...350 and 455 were both gold before and blue after...had 71 and 75 Toro with 455 and cutlasses with 350...ten bolts in valve covers on gold engines...five bolts in blue...technically speaking, no such thing as small block/big block olds...engine blocks are same size...different bores and strokes...
They didn't mention oil galley restrictors in the main saddles , cam spacer or bushing to stop cam from walking forward and back. Did a Mondello build in 1990 and most pieces had to come from Joe. They had just started testing billet MSD distributor with vacuum for the street.
Cant go wrong with "OLDS GOLD"
dont try to use the spray on it otherwise BOOM!
Nice to see that things don't always go smoothly.
If you look at your dyno sheet, engine torque is in lb-ft, not ft-lbs. ft-lbs is twisting torque used on bolts, lb-Ft is a measure of work capability.
People misuse those terms all the time.
12:06 The first thing they teach you school is that the vac system plays no part in the ignition timing at WOT but it is very important for part throttle driving.
Do I still see rust in the block water jackets? Thought all that would get cleaned out
don't look and don't think it might help you to keep your head out of your asshole! good luck there chuck!
@@camgnilpe9300 shut up
I remember watching these guys when I was 18, they had 3 guys on this show. I remember when Mike join there show and they did the “pocket rocket” the Honda Civic. Along with many other cool cars they had built. Love this show! Wish Stacey David was back on under the”Trucks” he used to build.
He has a new show, and website called “Gearz”.
John Ulicky yes, I like the show(Gearz) but think trucks was better, just my opinion. I wish he’d show gears was a few hours long! I could watch Stacey David building and work on stuff for hours! He knows his stuff and has just crazy ideas!
This engine would likely pick up 25 hp and as much torque with an air gap intake vs the performer, would like to see the comparison
Even a Torker would most likely help.
Shaving down the divider a half inch or so in the intake would likely give 10-20hp also.
Not likely... small cam, low compression ratio...
Look closely 00:47 re-using stock flat tappet cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
@@BuzzLOLOL he said hydraulic roller not flat tappet like stock
I'm so glad you guys post these I can now show my kids the just werr I learned a good part of my car knowledge thank you
What a coincidence. Posted on my birthday and I also own a 69 Cutlass with a 455 😁
Well happy birthday from a fellow car guy. 🎂 🔧
@@ViperSRTnACR Thanks man 👍
One HP / CI used to be THE elusive ultimate dream target goal of ALL hot rod engine builders with the normally aspirated. Today? - Many ways to get there! With the same block and rotating assembly practically. I bought an Olds '98 brand new off the showroom in 1972. Drove it 6 or 7 times then put it in storage for some years while overseas, came back to it just in time for the gas crunch. Had a '76 VW bus. YUP! An Olds 455 in a pretty VW bus that everyone thought they would pass. nope. nope. HA! The honking they did when they didn't get the results they expected.
A 750cfm carb is fine for 450hp. Swapping that didn't do anything.
I wish i could get a dyno tune like this on my 383. It would be awesome to learn and trouble shoot with the dyno data and these guys experience.
Gold paint is for the 400 engine blue is the 455
442 Olds black and gold Hurst dug
Olds gold was for a 330 350 cub IN 400 was bronze and 455 was red or metallic blue. Just saying.
Pass the gold Olds 455/461 off as a 400 in a 1960's Olds 442...
that olds 455 was one of the fastest motors i ever done tourq moster
no dyno graph to show for all that. thumbs down. peak numbers are not the entire story.
Joe Mondello passed away in April, 2011. R.I.P.
How many off the shelf part motors will you guys build? Make some real power one day
I can tell you guys one thing the Olds 455 makes a really great Tractor motor for pulling blades across your lower 40 and when done makes a great Boat anchor...
455 Olds were never HP engines, they were torque engines, keep them below 5000 rpm and they live forever. The 4.125 bore was small for HP but the 4.250 stroke made up in torque.
Um... a small vacume leak at the distributor isn't going to effect timing at WOT...you know, when there is almost no vacume. It will lean the engine out slightly though, depending on were the vacume is sourced.
Thanks so much for showing this. I'm an Oldsmobile guy from way back when. If you can find one I'd love to see you guys work on an Oldsmobile 425, specifically the one they used to put in the 66 and 67 Toronado. I'm looking to buy a 67 Toronado and would be interested to hear your comments on rebuilding it. It would need to keep the stock intake and exhaust manifolds and oil pan to fit, and I'd want to keep it looking stock too, but what could be done?
Thanks again!
425 was a Cadillac motor.
@@spaceghost8995, the Oldsmobile 425 was not a Cadillac motor. It was descended from the original Oldsmobile "Rocket" V8 from the late 40s. It went to a 455 the year after my Toronado was built. The 66 and 67 Toronados had a special high performance version of the Oldsmobile 425.
Cadillac's 425 was completely different, designed around the 472 in the 70s.
@@SirAndacar It's a great motor you got. I built a 66 toro motor & put it in an '80 Salon & the thing did wheelstands on street tires w/3.73 rear. Engle cam. B heads. Torker/holley #6213
@@Torch4Life, thanks for the reply! I should have clarified. I used to have a 67 Toronado way back in the early 80s and I miss it terribly. When I get another one I would be building the engine for long distance cruising and torque, not racing. I'd also be rebuilding the Turbo Hydramatic 425 front wheel drive transmission for heavier duty and longer life. I know a guy who is a genius with Quadrajets, so I'd stick with the stock carb as well.
@@SirAndacar Makes perfect sense. My example is probably rare, i was very pleased with how it was so willing to make power. I kinda grew up on 455s & it was my only attempt w/a 425, so your posting about them brought back fond memories. 18436572 for life.
Just to be clear. Gold was for the Olds 350 Rocket motor. The 455 had its own color... Olds blue. NAPA was the only place I could find it.
Red too from 68 and 69 with c heads the 70 and up was blue
Fusick sells Olds Blue.
With premium heads and intake shouldn't it be easier to make more than 1HP per CID?
Did you hear it? Little more time and those guys could've destroyed that flat tappet anchor.
@lso4988 BS.
Yes but this is pretty much a shelf build that anyone can do. If they changed a few things they could make more power fairly easy. They definitely need to get them fuckin rocker arms off of it!!!! Gotta sell shit though! Put some pro magnums on if you are not going to shaft mount!!! All day power increase from rigidity
Olds engines make good torque but they’re a little soft on peak horsepower.
@@timsharpe3498 good for pulling those 6000 lb steel sleds from 70's Detroit....
@ 0:21 he broke the stud on the cylinder head.. nice
but how long would that Old 455 live those engines are not good above 5k RPM
With the block job they did it should be fine
I have one in my boat. It’s runs for hours on end at 4500 rpm. Like 2 hours at 4500 rpm no letting off. oil pressure and water temp will never change, she is dialed in perfectly.
HP peaked at only 4700 RPMs with the stock cam they re-used...
Had one of these mean things in our jet boat and it was sick
Do a 440 Chrysler build
4:30 Some people apply a vacuum pump to the oil container. That makes the job go much more quickly.
11:37 Actually it would need to be a little more than 455. I'm not sure what overbore this engine has, but it has resulted in more cubes.
Installing a hydraulic roller cam with flat tappet lifters? Did I miss something?
Who revised the script?
sooooo glad SOMEONE caught that
No... 00:47 re-using stock flat tappet cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races!
wow I am impressed by your knowledge. now do your self and the rest of the people a favor and STFU! wilee
Is it a motor or engine????
Engine lol ! I get it as well I always say engine because motors are electric motors not gas or diesel lol.
Whoa....stock 455 W 30 supposedly makes 370 horsepower...what cam did they run? Not sure I caught that..Those Edelbrock heads had huge valves....2.19 Int and were they 1.84? exhausts? Hmm, yeah, that manifold could be suspect. Many years ago I built a 455 +.030, stock "C" casting heads, Lunati .570 lift solid cam, with 255 degree @ .050 , 2 inch Hooker headers 800 Holley D.P. Q-jet replacement carb, (spread bore) on an Edelbrock single plane intake.
With stock 10.5 to 1 compression, the motor made 485 horses....(don't recall torque). Ran 11.50's at 117 with a 9 inch tire in a 68 Cutlass...
00:47 re-using stock cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
How can you be so off from the start? They picked up 120 hp with timing and a carb swap with jetting.
I built a 455 in the 80s that made this kind of power with stock c heads.
What a joke.
maybe you just think you were making 455 horsepower with stock parts...you know, 335 hp with 500 foot pounds makes for one hell of a burn out machine so im sure it was a mad car but imagine what it would have been like with 455 hp
stickloaf yeah maybe I just imagined me going 11.80s @ 113 weighing close to 4000 in a 70 cutlass. I’m not speaking from theory I speaking from facts. They should have made 500+. Hp
@@rle1020 do you realize how many people say it's not possible to get 500 hp from olds 455??? Expensive, but possible...just have to do it under 5000 rpm...they like the foot stomp but not the wind up like a 327 chevy....
Look closely 00:47 re-using stock flat tappet cam... 4700 RPMs HP peak...
I trust him building my engine now that dedication 🎉
#1 NEVER pre- pump up lifters #2 vacuum advance is for station wagons, less vacuum on load = less advance . best set up for HP engine is no vacuum advance 30 regular 32 hi-test 34-38 race gas total timing . I enjoy your show but check what your doing and saying young pups!
Is that engine specific advice your giving?
You're right about the liftere, WRONG about vacuum advance.
Vacuum advance is for efficiency. If you’re not into efficiency that’s just you being wasteful.
@@timsharpe3498 When you step on the gas you lose manifold vacuum in turn your timing is reduced, its and antique knock prevention , how are you going to make hi power with 1/3 less timing?
An old fashioned distributor has about 15 to 20 degrees of centrifugal advance. When you add that to the initial timing you get total timing which is everything an engine needs at wide open throttle. Vacuum advance is for part throttle only.
I had this motor in my 65 Cutlass back in the late 80's. I had so much trouble getting the rubber seal under the front of the intake manifold stay in. Seemed like once a month I was putting in a new one. Now you guys don't even use a rubber seal. I wish that silicone existed back then. Or maybe it did and I just didn't know about it.
Silicone was around then lol .
I'm not hating but its frustrating as a foxbody guy that he just ruined a set of rare black seats
@Z I know I try to save everything I can for them
As I young man I never did get around to playing with cars/engines as I would have liked. Now in my 60s I know I have missed out. Watching this I can't help but think of all the joy that will be missed by youngsters of today as we get away from I.C.E.
Worse is the nightmare of young men, sipping lattes, bragging about the virtues of their Transit Passes...
P.S: I still haven't got around to building the motorized go kart, I have dreamt of since I was 8 years old.
I did buy a brand new 6HP engine about 15 years ago, it is still in the box. Maybe this Year?
Also have an '86 Ford Ranger 4x4 I would love to do a total restoration on.....'time keeps on, slippin',
into the future.....'
Rocket power!!!
Swap the intake back to the factory one
Nope, the factory intake could never make even 400hp... not going to happen. Been building Olds engines for 30 years, my guy, and never seen a factory intake go over 400hp, and be fickle as hell on a HP engine when it's hot outside.
And another thing! As my old high school janitor once said, when I asked him if he wanted to drag his ‘65 Impala against my dad’s olds 98, he said, “Oldsmobile? SHEEEEEEIT!” LOL
I wonder if a carb spacer would have grabbed 10 more hp.
hugieflhr03 you loose hp with those
@@yamahaguy1732 I don't know where you get your information at but a 1" carb spacer is good for between 10 and 15hp on most intake manifolds. Go either side and you will still gain but not as much. This is an old of a hot rodders trick as indexing the spark plugs and icing the intake between rounds.
Im right there with you on the spacer thing..I thought that's what he was gonna do when he stayed late! aside from a little bit larger plenum area you get a longer radius when air fuel mixture is making that 90 degree turn from the carb throats to the intake manifold ports.
Those TV shows are basically 30 minute advertising gimmicks to flood autozone o'Reilly's and jegs with cardboard box "builders"......everyone wants a race car but not so many know how or where to find the hidden horsies without spending a boatload of cash!
Fred Mendez I would agree. I think this is a very old episode and Mike was still cutting his teeth. He’s learned a lot since Pat joined the show and that’s what hotrodding is all about. Learn something new everyday👍
Theres just no way electric cars will ever be as fun as a car with something like this in it. Yeah they got crazy acceleration but you just cant beat the feeling of rippin something like this down the street & strip.
'Since I couldn't sleep' and precedes to show a darked out shop; highly implying that he was SO dedicated that he went in and worked that night. Nice try, but next time, try to be mindful of the DAYLIGHT peeking in through the expansion joint on the wall 13:54 and also try to remember that computers display the TIME, lol 14:00. Oopsie! Lame-ass, unnecessary drama...
Just to give the benefit of a doubt, perhaps he DID come in late that night...with no cameraman. So what we see is a reenactment...maybe.
@@warrenzevonsangryghost6055 That's quite a stretch, but hey, in the world of entertainment, I guess anything could be possible, lol.
I love olds
I wanna dump it in my cutlass '71