6/8/22; I just did mine today on my '08 Ranger 4.0 2 wheel drive. I did NOT replace the longer line that goes from the transmission to the radiator cooler-(Mine wasn't rusted) I had a hell of a time using a 5/8" flare nut wrench and my Metrinch 5/8" open end wrench so I thought of a Crows Foot wrench/socket. I went and bought a set from Harbor Freight and used a couple of LONG extensions and the Crows foot worked PERFECTLY!! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND!! I also had a real hard time getting the large clamp that anchors to the engine block back in place-I ended up removing my oil filter to gain more room which helped. Just thought I'd share my experience for anyone else that has to do this nasty job.
Hello Richard, Thank you for watching our video and providing your feedback. We are glad you were able to complete your repairs. The use of specialty tools can be very helpful in a lot of cases. In our videos, we try to complete the repair using the tools we believe most of our customers may already have in their collection. Happy Travels! LinesToGo Team
I was trying to do mine but couldn't get any wrenches that could reach the transmission port because it was a tight squeeze, do you know how to get that part out? I have a 2010 4.0
@@dimitaryotsov4318 Get yourself a set of Crows Foot Sockets (SAE) it takes a 5/8" on the line nuts. Remove your RF plastic inner fender. Go in through there with a couple of long extensions. Good Luck!!
Perfect. I came here to figure out how to put the line in you guys broke down into 2 lines. That's really smart. Wish I bought that one instead of the crazy one piece line I have that doesn't even look like it's the right shape
Hello! Glad we could help with your installation! If you are ever needing lines again in the future you can check us out at www.linestogo.com! :) Happy Travels, LinesToGo
@@LinesToGo yeah, I ordered the set. Got fed up with the ones I got from Thailand. I think they need better quality control because the fittings just were not going on the transmission. They went on the radiator fine. Not sure if those are different fittings. The ones they used were 17mm outer diameter not 16mm. The originals were 16mm like in the video.
I just finished a 2011 Ranger XLT 4.0. Had to unbolt and pull down the sway bar from the frame (not the end links) to run the line from the top of the transmission. Also unbolted the radiator shroud to allow it to move around but thankfully didn’t need to pull it out. Also, I needed a full compliment of crows feet, stubby, and angled wrenches to pull this job off.
Hello Jeff, Thank you for providing more information regarding your installation! This may be helpful for others attempting installation! Kind Regards, LinesToGo
Doing mine today. The bottom rad inlet was rusted/fused to line connector so I ended up taking the whole fitting off the rad with an 1 1/16 socket. Then put the whole fitting in a vice so I could get a better grip to remove the line fitting.
Lines look great. I had a bit of trouble getting the union to be at the right orientation. The stainless lines are harder to bend than steel but I did get it all together and transmission working. A great product for a fair price!
Hi Jason, Glad you were happy with your lines. The stainless steel is a little harder to work with but will last much longer than any other steel whch is why we prefer it for brake line kits. Happy Travels, LinesToGo Team
Any tips on geting the lines off the transmission? I am watching him with a wrench and I am over here with a crowfoot and a breaker bar and this thing hasn't moved an inch...
Hello Sam, I spoke to our technician and he advised you cut your lines close to the tranmission and use a socket to remove them! I hope this helps! Happy Travels, LinesToGo
wow, really helpful for the instillation, I bought OEM lines tho, any tips so I dont wreck anything, I see your ''lines to go'' are separate pieces for easier instillation
Hi, Thank you for your feedback! Hopefully, you can use this as a reference for your OEM lines as that is what ours are based on. We would love to help you find a set for your next project. LinesToGo Team
Been trying to source prebent lines for my '06 for a while... factory still sells the stock steel ones (the trans. to the radiator is getting scarce) but all together, the price is only $20 dollars less than these stainless lines. With the size of the long line, who knows what freight would be for that stupid big box, not to mention how bent to sh*t it will be upon arrival! Seems like an obvious choice getting these.
6/8/22; I just did mine today on my '08 Ranger 4.0 2 wheel drive. I did NOT replace the longer line that goes from the transmission to the radiator cooler-(Mine wasn't rusted) I had a hell of a time using a 5/8" flare nut wrench and my Metrinch 5/8" open end wrench so I thought of a Crows Foot wrench/socket. I went and bought a set from Harbor Freight and used a couple of LONG extensions and the Crows foot worked PERFECTLY!! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND!! I also had a real hard time getting the large clamp that anchors to the engine block back in place-I ended up removing my oil filter to gain more room which helped. Just thought I'd share my experience for anyone else that has to do this nasty job.
Hello Richard,
Thank you for watching our video and providing your feedback.
We are glad you were able to complete your repairs.
The use of specialty tools can be very helpful in a lot of cases.
In our videos, we try to complete the repair using the tools we believe most of our customers may already have in their collection.
Happy Travels!
LinesToGo Team
I was trying to do mine but couldn't get any wrenches that could reach the transmission port because it was a tight squeeze, do you know how to get that part out? I have a 2010 4.0
@@dimitaryotsov4318 Get yourself a set of Crows Foot Sockets (SAE) it takes a 5/8" on the line nuts. Remove your RF plastic inner fender. Go in through there with a couple of long extensions. Good Luck!!
@@richardbarkley9909 ok thank you
@@dimitaryotsov4318 You really should remove your right front wheel as well and support your truck with a jack stand while you're under it as well.
Perfect. I came here to figure out how to put the line in you guys broke down into 2 lines. That's really smart. Wish I bought that one instead of the crazy one piece line I have that doesn't even look like it's the right shape
Hello!
Glad we could help with your installation!
If you are ever needing lines again in the future you can check us out at www.linestogo.com! :)
Happy Travels,
LinesToGo
@@LinesToGo yeah, I ordered the set. Got fed up with the ones I got from Thailand. I think they need better quality control because the fittings just were not going on the transmission. They went on the radiator fine. Not sure if those are different fittings. The ones they used were 17mm outer diameter not 16mm. The originals were 16mm like in the video.
I just finished a 2011 Ranger XLT 4.0. Had to unbolt and pull down the sway bar from the frame (not the end links) to run the line from the top of the transmission. Also unbolted the radiator shroud to allow it to move around but thankfully didn’t need to pull it out. Also, I needed a full compliment of crows feet, stubby, and angled wrenches to pull this job off.
Hello Jeff,
Thank you for providing more information regarding your installation! This may be helpful for others attempting installation!
Kind Regards,
LinesToGo
Thank you for this video !
Glad it was helpful!
Doing mine today. The bottom rad inlet was rusted/fused to line connector so I ended up taking the whole fitting off the rad with an 1 1/16 socket. Then put the whole fitting in a vice so I could get a better grip to remove the line fitting.
Lines look great. I had a bit of trouble getting the union to be at the right orientation. The stainless lines are harder to bend than steel but I did get it all together and transmission working. A great product for a fair price!
Hi Jason,
Glad you were happy with your lines. The stainless steel is a little harder to work with but will last much longer than any other steel whch is why we prefer it for brake line kits.
Happy Travels,
LinesToGo Team
Any tips on geting the lines off the transmission? I am watching him with a wrench and I am over here with a crowfoot and a breaker bar and this thing hasn't moved an inch...
Hello Sam,
I spoke to our technician and he advised you cut your lines close to the tranmission and use a socket to remove them! I hope this helps!
Happy Travels,
LinesToGo
I cut mine and used a socket. No problem
wow, really helpful for the instillation, I bought OEM lines tho, any tips so I dont wreck anything, I see your ''lines to go'' are separate pieces for easier instillation
Hi,
Thank you for your feedback! Hopefully, you can use this as a reference for your OEM lines as that is what ours are based on. We would love to help you find a set for your next project.
LinesToGo Team
Can you buy the lower rad fitting that you didn't remove when taking the lower line off?
Hello - you may be able to purchase it from your local Ford dealership.
Is this the same as 2003 ranger
Hello,
No, it is not. The part for the 2003 is TCL-178-SS, and unfortunately we do not have a video for that part yet.
Here to Help,
LinesToGo Team
I have a 2004 Ranger 6.0L and there is an exhaust pipe going right across the transmission there. It sucks. Wish I had a 2 piece line to the radiator
link broken but i found the part number on your site.😀
Been trying to source prebent lines for my '06 for a while... factory still sells the stock steel ones (the trans. to the radiator is getting scarce) but all together, the price is only $20 dollars less than these stainless lines. With the size of the long line, who knows what freight would be for that stupid big box, not to mention how bent to sh*t it will be upon arrival! Seems like an obvious choice getting these.