Hey, I work as an underbody protection professional in Germany and would like to give you a few tips. I preserve cars every day and know which products are good and which are not. First of all, I think it's good that you're doing something at all, but if you have to remove the rust every 2-3 years, at some point there won't be any metal left. You have to protect the frame, but also the cavity. Since you already have so much rust, the only thing that will help you is GREASE. Wax wouldn't help because wax doesn't creep into rust like grease does. Get “Owatrol oil” and “cavity grease” and then do the following: As always, you remove rust from the entire frame of the car. Then you degrease everything and spray the entire frame with “Owatrol oil”. The stuff is the best remedy you can use against rust. Then, when the Owatrol oil has dried, coat the entire frame with Brantho Korrux 3in1, this is a rust protection paint that should be known worldwide and is simply unbeatable in terms of durability. 100x better than POR15. You inject the cavity with cavity GREASE, important, it MUST be GREASE. If you do it this way, your car will last 100 years. So buy yourself: Brantho Korrux 3in1 Owatrol oil Cavity fat
Thank you for the details and explanation where rust this car, I am looking forward to buy one but now I can better check the problematic areas! Nice job!
Thank you for all the information. I’ve got a couple small rust spots on a trailer frame I need to tackle, this went a long way toward how I’ll go about it now. Great video 👍👍
Thanks for the vid. I'm doing similar work on an old 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac that I haven't driven much in a few years and discovered a terrible case of rust scale all over the underbody. Frame doesn't have any holes, but parts of the floor pan, inner rockers, and cab supports are rotting away. I only mention this because it got me researching ways to repair it for now, but also how to prevent it. So I have a tip to share: you shouldn't have to grind and re-paint every two years! Get a lanolin-based undercoating spray and apply it after your paint has dried. Not only will it keep the rust out on the exterior, you can spray it inside those enclosed portions of frame rails and between the rockers to keep the water & salt off the metal. Because paint inevitably gets dinged up by road debris. But fluid film, woolwax, and other lanolin-based undercoatings stay fluid and protect the metal after the paint fails.
in vermont they box the frames and fill them with oil, their salt is a bigger problem, because it's always too cold to wash it off (freezes on and encapsulates the salt, in ice, and rust goes nuts).
What I have been using are the POR-15 rust preventative paints. Not inexpensive by any means but for what your doing on the flat bed & frame, it would be a one-&-done deal. I used it when I was in the Coast Guard for painting (at & under the waterline) on ice breakers, a tad bit harsher environment. Their chassy-black is the $h!tz for restorations
i hear people say their por-15 causes fust flaking if their is any moisture when you apply it. rustoleum doesnt do that and it's cheap. just reapply every few years. there is a reason it is a household name.
@@jimmyschmidt14 Any rust encapsulating top coat will offer poor results given poor preparation. as for price, you get what you pay for. There is also a reason the US Coast Guard uses por-15 on the hulls of their ice breakers (every 7-10 years)..just sayin...
From experience painting a rusty frame is dumb as the paint will hold (encapsulate) all the moisture in the steel, hence rusting it even more. Paint clean new steel not rusted steel. Converters work best on rusted steel and even then I don't paint over, I oil the frig out of it frequently.
Great video! I do it much like you but I like OSPHO and then paint and then a rubberizer over that. It may chip a little and I have to redo a few spots but then lay the rubberizer on thick in the spots it chips. The real trick I found is to keep the bottom clean with a pressure washer. The best paint is frame encapsulation paint and you are not going to chip it. I don't need that level of protection but if you have a classic car it will be worth the money.
great video. i just bought a 03 avalanche and overlooked the frame. Guy was in NY and always did snow banks. Was wondering how well will the frame hold up with that patch work? i never had frame damage, its straight thru like yours misssing on both sides of the one frame line. Thanks!
What year Ranger is the one in this video? I have 2004, 2009 and 2011 Rangers but the 2004 was in storage from summer 2011 to August 2021 aside from being ran 2x-3x a year up through 2018 when the fuel pump went caput. The 2011 was parked a few times in the last 4 years. I’m in Minnesota and yes they use plenty of salt on the roads here.
Nice video. I have a my first car that I still have from 18 years ago that the undercarriage has started to rust out. I’ve never welded b4 nor own a welder. Regardless, I’m willing to learn and repair the rocker panels and small areas around the have rusted. Would you recommend as a first timer and my ambition at hand that I can get away with a cheap harbor freight welder and some steel plates I can order from eBay or something?
might attempt this because im poor enough that i dont really have another option lol! mechanic told us to just scrap it but vehicle prices are inflating too fast to risk gambling on another used vehicle.
My dads 97 is rusty underneath. He passed away last year. I’m going to fox this truck. It’s a standard car shortbed. I’m not sure where to look for frame repair material. Also would like to know what frames will swap with it. I’m going to make a hotrod out of it, but keep it nice.
It was a piece of 3/16 so about 5mm thick. 6mm would have been a better choice but was what I had on hand and the other side of the frame rail was still factory and solid.
Interesting to see someone actually keep an eye on their frame etc vs have it rot and get rid of it. Have you tried waxoyl? I'm in salted road area too and am going to experiment with it.
If it is anything like Fluid Film that everyone up here in Maine tries to sell. It works on every where but splash and impact zones. This is why I paint. Also in future repairs Wax based products can be a major fire hazard and cost you time and money in cleaning the redoing.
Instead of painting everything take your old motor oil and spray it underneath or paint it on with a brush. Basically diy fluid film. The paint is just sealing in moisture, at best delaying the inevitable. The oil works way better because it repels water, many leaky shitboxes can attest to that
Smart guy…I spray transmission fluid …..warm it up ..hot sunny day …white suit on…and curse my self to death….but it works…what a mess. Power steering leaked in the 90s all over my chassis to lazy to fix…bit noticed that side was perfect other side was wasted…ah ha moment…
can you brush on a mix like that? i've always used a brush to apply my frame paint just cause im a failure at spraying and it seems to work but never used this mix before and just got an old hummer i think i wanna try this on
If your going to brush it on i would go pure paint black rustoleum. Maybe cut it 80 - 20 ratio with acetone. But the 50-50 ratio I run in a spray would be way to thin to brush. I would recommend some spray can extreme cover paint. You can buy it in 6 pack on amazon. Way cheaper then any retail store.
@@redneckcomputergeek ok that sounds right it would be too runny i guess to apply? Have you ever used a paint called Rust Bullet? I've always just cleaned it and used farm inhibitor paint but like i said i wanna try something different
@@freemaysin5088 I have not I have used POR 15 and that trumps rustoleum any day of the week. But at 4 times the cost and harder to use at times do to a fast flash point. I will stick with my poor mans version.
hey man I have the rust spot by the exhaust on passenger side. how structurally is that important? its seems the welds and stuff on the other side are fine.
@@redneckcomputergeek Im not critiquing your info or skill but I dont get how welding a little plate onto a spot like that is going to save and strengthen it wont the weld just eat the existing faster because its beat up?
@@Kuhlyedascope69 your not "fixing" your preventing. The strong part of the frame is the other side. You close off the hole to prevent the frame getting filled with salt and grime that eat it faster.
@@redneckcomputergeek hey i really appreciate your reply bro Im in MA so I know all about salt and rust. The other side of the frame is great still has factory paint on it. the top and bottom are great too so it kind of turned its self into a C-frame. I took an air compressor and zip tied the gun and shoved it in there and got pretty much all the crap out then sprayed oil in it. do you still have this truck?
@@Kuhlyedascope69 Yes its the truck in all my videos the last 5 years. 180k miles its the lowest millage ranger I have ever owned. My last one had 360k original engine and tranny when it dropped a valve in the engine.
Jack it up and find out. I repaint every vehicle underside every September. A 6 can case of Rustoleum Extreme cover on amazon is only 35$ and cheaper then any amsoil dealer and rubber safe and wire safe.
if you can borrow a friend's big welder, that makes it go a bit better, more permanent, and get a box of tyvek suits off wal mart for $50, and a respirator and cover up, that acetone might be hard on the liver or lungs... it sure isn't very healthy, but according to the FEds is not carcinogenous.. so, it probably is.
✨ Please use some kind of dust mask always when dust is present ✨ in addition, all people present in the vicinity should wear one as well. There is lead and other toxins that are pulverized when using the needle scaler. paint dust and brake dust are KILLERS. An ounce of prevention is worth 100 pounds gold when it comes to these toxin and your health. Keep them out, you’ll breath and live easier 🌬✨
I agree with you 100% percent but for the most part I believe he’s blowing all that to the side and making sure he’s in an open ventilated place. Personally I would wear a mask and goggles but to each their own.
@@alphaduck2926 if you look at 13:22, you can see him blowing dust directly towards a person sitting in a riding lawn mower. So much harm when trying to do good :(
Авто/Мото![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
Could you have just used jb weld for that plate instead of actually welding?
Hey, I work as an underbody protection professional in Germany and would like to give you a few tips.
I preserve cars every day and know which products are good and which are not.
First of all, I think it's good that you're doing something at all, but if you have to remove the rust every 2-3 years, at some point there won't be any metal left.
You have to protect the frame, but also the cavity.
Since you already have so much rust, the only thing that will help you is GREASE.
Wax wouldn't help because wax doesn't creep into rust like grease does.
Get “Owatrol oil” and “cavity grease” and then do the following:
As always, you remove rust from the entire frame of the car. Then you degrease everything and spray the entire frame with “Owatrol oil”.
The stuff is the best remedy you can use against rust. Then, when the Owatrol oil has dried, coat the entire frame with Brantho Korrux 3in1, this is a rust protection paint that should be known worldwide and is simply unbeatable in terms of durability. 100x better than POR15.
You inject the cavity with cavity GREASE, important, it MUST be GREASE. If you do it this way, your car will last 100 years.
So buy yourself:
Brantho Korrux 3in1
Owatrol oil
Cavity fat
Hard to find korrux in America
My man going ham with the paint! Love that you're involving your son too. Great Video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the details and explanation where rust this car, I am looking forward to buy one but now I can better check the problematic areas! Nice job!
Thank you for all the information. I’ve got a couple small rust spots on a trailer frame I need to tackle, this went a long way toward how I’ll go about it now. Great video 👍👍
Thanks for the vid. I'm doing similar work on an old 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac that I haven't driven much in a few years and discovered a terrible case of rust scale all over the underbody. Frame doesn't have any holes, but parts of the floor pan, inner rockers, and cab supports are rotting away. I only mention this because it got me researching ways to repair it for now, but also how to prevent it. So I have a tip to share: you shouldn't have to grind and re-paint every two years! Get a lanolin-based undercoating spray and apply it after your paint has dried. Not only will it keep the rust out on the exterior, you can spray it inside those enclosed portions of frame rails and between the rockers to keep the water & salt off the metal. Because paint inevitably gets dinged up by road debris. But fluid film, woolwax, and other lanolin-based undercoatings stay fluid and protect the metal after the paint fails.
in vermont they box the frames and fill them with oil, their salt is a bigger problem, because it's always too cold to wash it off (freezes on and encapsulates the salt, in ice, and rust goes nuts).
I just got a 94 ranger I'm putting back in order. Thanks for the info.
Can’t believe you are trying to salvage this thing
Thank you for doing this video.
Bro, I love the channel name. I'm a Nintendo Repair/ car strut installer. StarBukz/Dunkin/TimHortons toast to you. - Houston, TX
This channel is awesome 👏
During the next zombie apocalypse, this family will be fine. Us Cubicle workers are a domed...
I like how my truck loses random parts of the rocker panel everyday 😂
very interesting video man! thanks :)
Bro that's hardcore welding overhead with no gloves 😂
What I have been using are the POR-15 rust preventative paints. Not inexpensive by any means but for what your doing on the flat bed & frame, it would be a one-&-done deal. I used it when I was in the Coast Guard for painting (at & under the waterline) on ice breakers, a tad bit harsher environment. Their chassy-black is the $h!tz for restorations
i hear people say their por-15 causes fust flaking if their is any moisture when you apply it. rustoleum doesnt do that and it's cheap. just reapply every few years. there is a reason it is a household name.
@@jimmyschmidt14 Any rust encapsulating top coat will offer poor results given poor preparation. as for price, you get what you pay for. There is also a reason the US Coast Guard uses por-15 on the hulls of their ice breakers (every 7-10 years)..just sayin...
From experience painting a rusty frame is dumb as the paint will hold (encapsulate) all the moisture in the steel, hence rusting it even more. Paint clean new steel not rusted steel. Converters work best on rusted steel and even then I don't paint over, I oil the frig out of it frequently.
lotta body shops i talked to say por is very, very bad on frames, and that was my experience for sure
Great video! I do it much like you but I like OSPHO and then paint and then a rubberizer over that. It may chip a little and I have to redo a few spots but then lay the rubberizer on thick in the spots it chips. The real trick I found is to keep the bottom clean with a pressure washer.
The best paint is frame encapsulation paint and you are not going to chip it. I don't need that level of protection but if you have a classic car it will be worth the money.
great video. i just bought a 03 avalanche and overlooked the frame. Guy was in NY and always did snow banks. Was wondering how well will the frame hold up with that patch work? i never had frame damage, its straight thru like yours misssing on both sides of the one frame line. Thanks!
I recomend the titan inverter welder from HF. Its has mig/tig/stick/fluxcorr, and can convert to aluminum. Perfect for vehicle repair.
Couldn’t he have just used jb weld tho?
What year Ranger is the one in this video? I have 2004, 2009 and 2011 Rangers but the 2004 was in storage from summer 2011 to August 2021 aside from being ran 2x-3x a year up through 2018 when the fuel pump went caput. The 2011 was parked a few times in the last 4 years. I’m in Minnesota and yes they use plenty of salt on the roads here.
Where did you get the patch panel for that front frame rail by the cat? At the 1115 mark?
Nice video. I have a my first car that I still have from 18 years ago that the undercarriage has started to rust out. I’ve never welded b4 nor own a welder. Regardless, I’m willing to learn and repair the rocker panels and small areas around the have rusted.
Would you recommend as a first timer and my ambition at hand that I can get away with a cheap harbor freight welder and some steel plates I can order from eBay or something?
Great video man, thank you! About to weld up some patch work on my frame. What kind of lift is that? Where can I find one?
The company that makes this lift was bought out the lifts are now made by Mayflower amzn.to/3o4vWoS
@@redneckcomputergeek thank you
I wish i lived closer and have you work on my frame for me
might attempt this because im poor enough that i dont really have another option lol! mechanic told us to just scrap it but vehicle prices are inflating too fast to risk gambling on another used vehicle.
Por15 is ok but use majic paint from TSC its just as good.if its durable enough for farm equipment it plenty for truck frames
My dads 97 is rusty underneath. He passed away last year. I’m going to fox this truck. It’s a standard car shortbed. I’m not sure where to look for frame repair material. Also would like to know what frames will swap with it. I’m going to make a hotrod out of it, but keep it nice.
Great video man thank you. What thickness steel plate did you use? Looks like 4mm? 6mm?
It was a piece of 3/16 so about 5mm thick. 6mm would have been a better choice but was what I had on hand and the other side of the frame rail was still factory and solid.
Lmao, nice video! I couldn't help but notice you sound like hiccup from how to train your dragon and it's funny to me! 🤣 Keep up the good work tho 💪🏼😁
Interesting to see someone actually keep an eye on their frame etc vs have it rot and get rid of it. Have you tried waxoyl? I'm in salted road area too and am going to experiment with it.
If it is anything like Fluid Film that everyone up here in Maine tries to sell. It works on every where but splash and impact zones. This is why I paint. Also in future repairs Wax based products can be a major fire hazard and cost you time and money in cleaning the redoing.
Do you do rust repair on customers cars
Were can I get a plate? I have a 96 nissan pick up gotta do a fix
Instead of painting everything take your old motor oil and spray it underneath or paint it on with a brush. Basically diy fluid film. The paint is just sealing in moisture, at best delaying the inevitable. The oil works way better because it repels water, many leaky shitboxes can attest to that
You & I both every year I oil under my 92 Volvo not a speck of rust😉
Smart guy…I spray transmission fluid …..warm it up ..hot sunny day …white suit on…and curse my self to death….but it works…what a mess. Power steering leaked in the 90s all over my chassis to lazy to fix…bit noticed that side was perfect other side was wasted…ah ha moment…
how much did your lift cost?
do you do other peoples rust jobs. i have a ford f150 truck that needs to be done. where are located?
Wish you were in NC so you can do some work to my Toyota Tacoma
would you remove the rust fro my 08 Ranger. I'm inOntrario and ould deliver truck to you . what do ya think?
can you brush on a mix like that? i've always used a brush to apply my frame paint just cause im a failure at spraying and it seems to work but never used this mix before and just got an old hummer i think i wanna try this on
If your going to brush it on i would go pure paint black rustoleum. Maybe cut it 80 - 20 ratio with acetone. But the 50-50 ratio I run in a spray would be way to thin to brush. I would recommend some spray can extreme cover paint. You can buy it in 6 pack on amazon. Way cheaper then any retail store.
@@redneckcomputergeek ok that sounds right it would be too runny i guess to apply?
Have you ever used a paint called Rust Bullet? I've always just cleaned it and used farm inhibitor paint but like i said i wanna try something different
@@freemaysin5088 I have not I have used POR 15 and that trumps rustoleum any day of the week. But at 4 times the cost and harder to use at times do to a fast flash point. I will stick with my poor mans version.
@@redneckcomputergeek all i have seen rustoleum seems to be the best option for a great price.
I’d honestly pay you to fix my f250
How much rust do you need to knock off before you start painting?
Just keep going right through the frame
Anything that is loose, and if it's layered a needle scaler works awesome for that.
Ohh my
hey man I have the rust spot by the exhaust on passenger side. how structurally is that important? its seems the welds and stuff on the other side are fine.
It is important and should be addressed other wise the frame under the cab can break and fold.
@@redneckcomputergeek Im not critiquing your info or skill but I dont get how welding a little plate onto a spot like that is going to save and strengthen it wont the weld just eat the existing faster because its beat up?
@@Kuhlyedascope69 your not "fixing" your preventing. The strong part of the frame is the other side. You close off the hole to prevent the frame getting filled with salt and grime that eat it faster.
@@redneckcomputergeek hey i really appreciate your reply bro Im in MA so I know all about salt and rust. The other side of the frame is great still has factory paint on it. the top and bottom are great too so it kind of turned its self into a C-frame. I took an air compressor and zip tied the gun and shoved it in there and got pretty much all the crap out then sprayed oil in it. do you still have this truck?
@@Kuhlyedascope69 Yes its the truck in all my videos the last 5 years. 180k miles its the lowest millage ranger I have ever owned. My last one had 360k original engine and tranny when it dropped a valve in the engine.
What if you have a bad rusty northern truck. That now is in Florida for good. Will it stop getting worse or continue. No more salt on the roads
It will keep getting worse but slower then in the North.
Toyota truck lived in Chicago for 10 years. Now it lives in Houston ( high Humidity ). Should I be concerned about our 2001, 3.4L, 4Runner ?
Jack it up and find out. I repaint every vehicle underside every September. A 6 can case of Rustoleum Extreme cover on amazon is only 35$ and cheaper then any amsoil dealer and rubber safe and wire safe.
You need to fluid film everything asap
Hope you like to wash with Acetone, please put on a shirt 😁😃
Great work but please you gotta wear some hearing protection!
I've learned the hard way, you can never get it back.
13:14 Corn flakes as my dad calls em
if you can borrow a friend's big welder, that makes it go a bit better, more permanent, and get a box of tyvek suits off wal mart for $50, and a respirator and cover up, that acetone might be hard on the liver or lungs... it sure isn't very healthy, but according to the FEds is not carcinogenous.. so, it probably is.
Dude, you don't want to inhale that stuff.
I feel sorry for your lungs...
Why in the world would you not pressure wash with soap and water and put the acid on with pump up sprayer you would get so much better rust removal
Dust masks please.
Brake dust is toxic. Before hammering brakes, wash down with brake cleaner. Peace.
✨ Please use some kind of dust mask always when dust is present ✨ in addition, all people present in the vicinity should wear one as well. There is lead and other toxins that are pulverized when using the needle scaler. paint dust and brake dust are KILLERS. An ounce of prevention is worth 100 pounds gold when it comes to these toxin and your health. Keep them out, you’ll breath and live easier 🌬✨
Great job but . Mask ! Safety first
That frame repair at 11.15 is not good.Lots if untreated rust inside and around.Rust will come again quick
wear a mask when you mess with rust
I agree with you 100% percent but for the most part I believe he’s blowing all that to the side and making sure he’s in an open ventilated place. Personally I would wear a mask and goggles but to each their own.
@@alphaduck2926 if you look at 13:22, you can see him blowing dust directly towards a person sitting in a riding lawn mower. So much harm when trying to do good :(
Polishing a terd