Kawasaki C14 Brake Bleeding: Speed Bleeder Install
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- How to change your brake fluid. How to install the Speed Bleeder replacement Caliper Bleeders.
One of the things every motorcyclist should know is how to change their own brake fluid. Any time your brakes feel "mushy", where it takes a few "pumps" for the brake lever response to "harden up", or when the fluid has cooked itself into a rich nasty dark brown-- that is when you should replace your fluid. Brake lever response should be crisp, and sharp, every single time. The "mushy" response comes from air that is being compressed in the brake line.
Its a simple process, but if you install the brake bleeders it a one person job. You don't have to worry about air being sucked into the line from the open brake caliper bleeder.
No one should ever pay for a dealership service department to bleed brakes-- its SO EASY. Once you install speed bleeders you can bleed your brakes in about 20 minutes for a grand total of $6 in new fluid.
Good Video. As an extra measure I put a sheet of plastic under the tarp.
Great video, very clear explanation. Thanks!
Great video. I found keeping the drain bottle above the bleeder valve keeps bubbles from going back into the system because they float up.
Thank you for sharing! Can't wait to do this on my '19 Connie.
Awesome video!!!!
what about the fitting on the master cylinder? Should it be bled as well?
Wish I'd seen you video before I went out and bought a MityVac vacuum pump. Speed bleeders seem to be the way to go. Pump is messy and tricky to get a good air seal.
All you need is a plastic bottle and a clear vynl hose, same benefit, but it's free, ive done it for years, absolutely no air left in yr brake system ....it works perfect for cars trucks motorcycles, any brake systems...
Hi. Could you tell me what size you speed bledeer? I am seeking a dimension to my Kawasaki z750 2009 and I can not find the dimensions of the bleed screw.
Thank you
I have had my C14 for nine years and only found the second bleeder this afternoon. It isn't mentioned in the manual. I'm going to have to bleed the crap out of that one soon. Not looking forward to that. I usually hang a gallon of water from the brake pedal when I bleed the rear brake. Speed bleeders would be a better option.
great info what size 7mm x 1.0 or 10mm x 1.25 on connie?
Good vid
Thanks! wocka wocka
HI there, May i check with you? the speed bleeder you using, is the PN SB8125L for the brakes? Thanks. i'm riding a 2012 Kawasaki C14 Cheers
Great video, 1 comment on your misuse of "calibrated drop cloth".... incorrect use of the word, thanks!
twas a bad joke.
@@CanyonCarver70 Not buying it, you didn't understand what you were saying!
@@TheDRUM2112 you really think that I used the term Calibrated for a crumpled up paint-stained 1985 Pacman bedsheet on purpose? OK...You keep having a good day.
@@CanyonCarver70 Part of being a man is admitting you made a mistake!
Can you use speed bleeders on a 2014 C14 with abs and linked brakes?
YES. I had them installed on ABS system on the Yamaha GTS1000. They are only a caliper bleed value, when they are closed and capped, they act like a normal bleed value. Its only when you open them up a 1/4 turn, that positive brake pressure will send the fluid out. They don't suck air back in, they only push fluid out. They are worth every penny, and speed up fluid changes dramatically. I can change out full brake/clutch fluids in about 15 minutes if I really go at it.
what about using the bleed nipple up beside the master cylinder? what is that for?
Air bubbles rise and will accumulate here. After you do the work and if the brakes still feel mushy, bled the system from this point. Get the bubbles out and you are good to go.
I always assumed that they were only needed if the system had been drained or if the fluid level had gotten low enough to suck some air in. I have never done that. Today, I planned to get my 2011 C14 out and found the lever very mushy. I thought something had failed it was so bad. After attempting to bleed the calipers, I gave that bleeder a try. The lever is very firm now. I think that my problem had been growing over the years. I have been riding other bikes this spring with simpler steel beaded lines and assumed that they were just better.
@@alanhassall (3 years later) Yes the motocycle brake levers should always be "crisp" to the touch. The clutch is more soft just based on its purpose, but the brakes should always be very "crisp" and only travel about an inch before full tension, otherwise its time for a brake bleed.
@@CanyonCarver70 Thanks. I realize how brakes should feel. The bike had been stored over the winter. I guess that air had accumulated in the line. I have always been careful when bleeding the system not to run the reservoir down to allow air into the line. It hasn't been a problem since.