How to Easily Install a Schrader Valve on any Can to make It Refillable without Drilling or Torch.
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This video is for educational purposes only and does involve some risk of fire and or explosion. Do not attempt this unless you have the tools and knowledge to do it safely.
I show you how to install a Schrader valve Stems on a can to make it refillable so you can save money by buying in bulk and refilling with an air compressor.
Tractor Air Liquid Valve, Brass Tire Valve Stems
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Squeeze Bottles
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Weller SP40 40 Watt Soldering Iron
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60/40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder
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No-Clean Soldering Flux Paste
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5 Grits Emery Cloth Roll, 150 240 320 400 600 Grits
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Tire Valve Tools,4-in-1 Valve Core Tool
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Grizzly 12x36 Gunsmithing Lathe
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Refillable High Pressure Aerosol Spray
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Tractor Air Liquid Valve, Brass Tire Valve Stems
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Weller SP40 40 Watt Soldering Iron
amzn.to/45BBkUM
Squeeze Bottles
amzn.to/4bkKTc8
60/40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder
amzn.to/4cRFPxf
No-Clean Soldering Flux Paste
amzn.to/3VRE4u8
5 Grits Emery Cloth Roll, 150 240 320 400 600 Grits
amzn.to/3xoeBz9
Tire Valve Tools,4-in-1 Valve Core Tool
amzn.to/3RC0kpw
Grizzly 12x36 Gunsmithing Lathe
amzn.to/3W3vOGv
Refillable High Pressure Aerosol Spray
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Where did you get the 3oz fill bottle with the PERFECT cap / valve fit?
@@Thinker2-truth it looked just like the one I have, from Shaklee multi-level sales group around 30 years ago. Made from high-density, high-molecular weight, polyethylene blown as shown. Great little squeeze/squirter. The ones he offered via amazon are the thin wall delicately handled version, they do not have a flip to dispense top either.
@737mechanic wd 40 separates when it's mixed it's cloudy I noticed yours was clear means it's not mixed just a FYI cool video
I have a vintage JenniCan that you can open the top to get your product in easier. It will be nice when they become popular again.
Just had a look and while there are dozens of DIY mods and through he valve refill options I was happy to see that there were at least 11 contemporary refillable systems showcased and they seemed to have removable tops that let you fill them easily.
Search for "refillable aerosol can" here for examples like
FirstTool
EWK
Gravity R/C
TruePower
SprayMaker
VIM
YouCAN
Preval
SOPPEC
Jounjip
ShureShot
Galaxy brain move holy
So, you don't need a drill or or torch, but you do need a lathe......right 🤣😂🤣
Thats all. Everyone needs a lathe.
It wouldn't really need a lathe you could easily cut it with a hacksaw spin it in a drill with a piece of sandpaper.
More have a drill or a torch. Very few have a lathe ???
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh Get a lathe, problem solved.
Was thinking same thing.
Solder the valve body near the bottom side of the can, about an inch from the bottom rim. I have inadvertently melted the _Spray Valve On The Can_ before, and moving the new fill valve down and away, eliminated that problem . . for me. But, yes, this definitely works, . . surprisingly well. Nice video, very easy to understand and I can clearly see how you are doing it. That's my biggest problem with making videos, I don't get good b-roll, so it's difficult for people to understand me.
Schrader valve 1/8" npt threaded tank fittings are available to do the same thing with no machining. The cheapest source of a Schrader valve might be to get an old car tire valve stem, remove the valve core, burn the rubber off of the remaining brass part of the valve, then clean off any residue. One might even be able to secure the valve in the can with epoxy if the fit in the can hole is close.
JB welded shrader valves on garden sprayers so I do not have to manually pump for air.
@@robhunter2435 🤯 I hadn't thought about that! Thanks for sharing, now I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning!
@@robhunter2435 on plastic pump vessels I drill 1/2 inch hole and and pull a standard tire valve though the opening at a convenient spot and pressurize on the fly with a compact bycice pump that can easily be fitted for transport in the field.
Wow this is a heaps good way to clean up the gene pool, keep up the good work!!!
Great video, please consider getting an air chuck with a lock so you can stand back while airing up the can. Not sure, but those cans are probably designed for single use and multiple refills may weaken them. 100 psi in a metal can is a bomb!
You should watch my other 2 videos where I pressurize them to failure.
Always wear safety glasses and other safety gear to protect your eyes and face if some solvent or other object happens to fly from the can!
That's the way to combat these cans that seem to have half the product in the can, and no propellant! THX!
This was a neat project, but if you don't want to use a pump sprayer you can go to any LOWE'S STORE and buy (for $8) a battery operated sprayer that screws on a gallon container and it sprays a stream of liquid about 20 feet. No manual pumping needed 😊. I bought 1 about 3 months ago and have used it for all different chemicals and I LOVE IT!
PS--- IT'S SOLD OVER BY THE BUG SPRAYS.👍
Great idea, i dont have a lathe to machine stuff, need to finish making the cnc one i started.
If you apply solder before punching the hole you can get a better fix. The chances of leak is also reduced.
Excellent 👏👏👏👏👍👍👍
GREAT IDEA😊
nice description .. the large brake cleaner cans would be a good donor .for this mod . a 3 euro donor instead of a 9 euro WD40 donor can .
pretty cool. i guess you could refill and olive oil spray can as well, i don't use seed oil for cooking because they are killing us all with that but any type of spray stuff eh? i wonder if you cold just pop a whole valve stem in there. I have a kit where I can just squeeze on down and pop it in with a mallet.
just a normal tubeless stem will do! buff the rubber pff and a bigger hole. the inner hole is the same size as a tractor stem. tyre shops have heaps of them that they cut off tyres! i,ve done this and they work well.
You definitely want the shraeder valve on the top.If you place the shraeder valve below the fluid level any solvent in the can could begin to dissolve the rubber seal in the valve leading to valve failure and a pressurized mess.
This mod also allows you to store/transport your cans unpressurized (ie air freight), use specific pressure settings or even make you own custom blends. DW40 + CRC 5.56 blend? Sacrilege to suggest adulterating DW40?
I would suggest not air freight or any professional freight for an altered pressure vessel.
I am not sure what the fine would be but it something I do not want to find out.
I did this kind of stuff 40 years ago..
Well done. The can said 11 Oz. So I guess it's good for 11 Oz. But how many psi is solder good for.
Very professionally done. I like !
I am going to do a video where I pressurize a can to failure to see how much pressure it can take.
@@737mechanic wear a helmet!
Very safe! Specially for flamable contents on the spray can.
Have you ever heard about ASME? They were created basically to slow down pressure vessel explosions (mostly boilers)!
Yes, I have heard of them. I am surprised I am still alive. I also use to sleep up in the package tray of my parents 71 cutlass when we would go on long trips and I survived that also not to mention I never wore a helmet when I rode my bike as a kid.
Now days I am surprised there is any innovation because of all the safety NAZI's.
Wire wheel the spot on the can. Used or new valve stems from cars have a narrow stem under the rubber also removed with the wire wheel.
Wow. Great idea……I’m going to run out and buy me a small metal lathe, tooling, and start machining asap so I can burn up a few hours and a bunch of cash in order save a couple bucks on a few cans of WD 40. 😉
You left out all the other things you can make.
@@737mechanic Yes, that’s true. A lathe is a very handy machine. 😉
on the original wd40 do they use nitrogen as the propellant ,using air = flue + air= a bomb? if it comes in contact with a flame.
I was thinking the same thing.
Engineering best practices try to avoid that kind of situation in vehicles, chemical plants etc.
How much of a risk is it inside an aerosol can where there’s less chance of an ignition? I’m not sure. But it’s definitely something to keep in mind.
I don't think WD40 is going to be explosive like starting fluid would be, however it will burn. It would take quite a bit of heat to make it burn and smoke, but you shouldn't get anything like an explosion from WD40 burning.
Note to self: make sure can is free of pressure before hammering a hole in it with a sharp object.
If you punch the correct size hole into the can, it will make a shoulder you can thread into which you can screw the valve. That makes the seal a lot more reliable before soldering.
Prior to pressuring ANY metal can, you should first reference the specific product Manufacturer's MSDA Safety Data Sheet from their website. This sheet describes the maximum air pressure rating of the can. You can be seriously injured (or possibly killed), if the air pressure exceeds the container's ability to hold it. One's personal safety is of greatest importance.
Out of all the MSDS's also known as SDS's I have read I have never seen a MAX pressure of a can listed. In fact, this can was Supertech Starting fluid, If you can find the SDS/MSDS that shows a max pressure I would like to see it.
BTW, my video tomorrow shows exactly how much pressure this exact can can hold.
Often you can just blow air in through the out with a small blow gun nozzle. Doesn't always work if the material is thick like old paint, etc.
I think I would skip the pre-tinning of the can and valve; just flux the joint and "sweat" the joint with solder. The flow would be sufficient to seal and a lot easier IMO.
Wouldn't it be easier to make an attachment to push into the original tip(with the spray head removed)?
I thought about coming up with something like that but to pump liquid and air into it might be challenging.
1 Schrader valve
1 valve stem remover
1 lathe to machine it down to size
1 soldering iron
1 soldering iron tip custom made to the perfect size
1 piece of sandpaper
1 bottle of acetone
1 punch at perfect size
1 hammer for using punch
1 bit of flux & solder
1 perfectly sized squirt bottle with screw top
1 perfectly sized funnel
1 air compressor
1 air compressor hose and tip
Instructions: Use all the above as instructed and spill enough when filling to negate any money savings. Then try to safely clean up all the toxic chemicals in the WD-40 that you just spilled everywhere. What a plan!
Sounds like you got it down. Now get started doing your own. :)
@@737mechanic 😂😂😂😂😂
Cool
Is shortening the valve strictly necessary?
Probably not, just sink the valve down into the can and solder away.
@@737mechanic
I only asked coz some commenters were saying now you need a lathe, not thinking that there are multiple other methods of shortening it.
These cans normally use a propellant, though, which maintains the pressure by the propellant continuously boiling and making more vapor. With compressed air, the pressure will drop really quickly when you press the nozzle valve to spray the contents. You'll have to keep adding compressed air and it will be annoying. If you try to make up for this by using a higher air pressure, you risk an explosion from overpressurizing the can. Also, these cans are not designed to be refilled so the fatigue caused by cycles of pressurizing and de-pressurizing is not taken into account in the design. I'll just keep buying them.
These kinds of mods are not for everyone. Some people overthink everything. So far I have sprayed all of the WD40 out of the first can I made and never had to refill it so you are incorrect in thinking you would need to always refill it before you get all of the contents out. I am sure you are incorrect about the can being fatigued to the point of explosion.
Appreciate your comment though.
Why not just use a hand pump spray bottle? I have one that came from WD-40 and it even has the WD-40 logo on it. It cost me $2 and I've had it for 25 years
The newer refillable spray bottles dont last all that long.....Chyna made
@@safetyharborfirearms I AGREE, I HAD ONE LAST 2 WEEKS
Mine kept falling over and leaking WD all,over the place.
I find the pump bottles to be spotty as far as quality and dependability. I use a Vaper pressurized spray bottle, but its a bit much, when sometimes I just want a little squirt
Exactly
I've turned stuff like that down in my drill press with a half inch chuck and a file. This is a very nice hack. I had been filling cans by pressing a wheel stem onto a spray can and using the schrader valve that way. This is way better. Thanks for posting. (I like the soldering iron hack too!)
the tire valve stems are made of rubber that is not oil resistant. the oil inside will eat tru the stem and will shoot the valve out, hopefully NOT in your eyes.
@@west_park7993 the sealing ring doesn't retain the stem, it's metal and gets screwed into the assembly. If it deteriorated, it would just start leaking .
The solder letting go is the risk of the valve going projectile.
@@west_park7993 Those are made for cars. Get some made for big truck rims and they will be all metal.
Funny, as a 10 year old kid in the 1960's I used to do this because them sprays were eating too much into my pocket money. Then oiling sprays become cheap as dirt. Now literally over 60 years later I am on the brink of doing this again because of corporate conglomeration having gone out of control.
the corporations aren't making any more money, the dollar is losing it's value. LOL
@@gregmize01 Maybe socialism is evil? Bideb does not remember data centers so he could organise a book burning?
Another benefit of having enviro activists running the EPA.
@@OneWildTurkeyEcoassholes...
Turn that gallon can over to the side with your nozzle on the high side. You can pour it out with a nice even stream.....your welcome
No need to lathe the valve, can simply remove the rubber from a standard tire valve and solder
@@ljbellinger True, but you have to make a larger hole in the can. I think you can spin it in a drill and grind off some brass with a file. It is small enough to work without a lathe.
@@AM-dn4lk Yes, with no Lathe - you read my mind. A punched hole prevents drill swarf inside the can. I knew about this idea, but it was the 100psi that prevented me from doing it. I have many Cans of half-full WD 40 - with no gas inside the aerosol! It happens a lot to WD 40 Cans that I buy.
@@peterduxbury927 PB Blaster is my notorious gas fail with lots of penetrate product left. Great fix!
@@peterduxbury927 Just take the spray nozzle off and use an air blower in thru the outlet tube on your cans that still have content in them😎
@petermurphy3354 Yes sir, especially that rubber tip blow gun, works on so many things...
That's a lot of effort to go through to extend the life of a spray can. My issue is I have cans of wd-40 and other substances where the propellant is gone. Sometimes I can take a blog gun, connected to a compressed air source and using the nozzle to pressurize the can. I remove the little plastic nozzle, press the rubber tip against the little hol3 in the can and press the button. Most of the time I can hear the air bubbling inside the can. If this works, for you, it will allow you to use the last bit in the can. The problem is, doesn't always work. I think a nozzle has to be machined that acts like the plastic spray nozzle. I could machine one, just have better things to do.
You can actually purchase containers that are made to be pressurized and refilled, can't remember the brands. The last time I used one, the can leaked a bit.
Should say this, but I've taken 30 pound refrigerant jugs, have silver soldered 1/4" male flare fittings with schraeder valves, that allows one to fill the tank with compressed air. I think the "illegal" part is transporting the container on public roads, since the ruling seems to come from the DOT.
Keep up the good work.
Jim
the problem with refilling those refrigerant jugs is the metal is so thin and it will rust on the inside and can explode and kill you. When they have refrigerant inside they cant rust but will with air inside.
@@jimthvac100 Only fill with air that has been thru a desiccant, drying out the air ... ought to have one of those on the air compressor anyway. on the intake side.
I like the recycle process my only concern is someone figures they can add more air to last longer, we all know idiots are everywhere an they will blow up the can due to overpressure. Just buy the ones for this usage as I paid 5.99 for a plastic bottle with a hand pump built in and a metal one that has a 80 to 150 psi rating for 29.99 at HF and be safe
That's my concern on it. One time I bought a "fillable" compressed air can (it was designed to be refillable, with a standard valve stem on the bottom). Nowhere on the can or the packaging did it give the maximum pressure rating of the can, so I never used it (seemed a highly unsafe item). Either couldn't find the company or couldn't get an answer from them, and whatever store I bought it from (maybe Staples?) would have been clueless on it too. These days I would have reported it to a safety agency or something like Consumer Reports.
If you can operate a lathe safely, you're probably safe to handle a little compressed air.
Stop trying to parent idiots karen. These people do dumb sht for stupid reasons because they just dont care.
Those cans are rated from the manufacturer to hold much more psi than most people's compressor can make. My compressor kicks off at 180 psi and it will not explode a brake cleaner can. Id be more concerned with knocking a hole in a can that has pressure in it (by accident)
This is an easy operation requiring simple tools... I have a commercial version of this, with a heavy duty aluminum tank, brass schrader valve, and a trigger sprayer. I keep PB Blaster in mine...
Brilliant solution and I wouldn't even need an air compressor. I could use my bicycle pump to pressurize it.
yeah but probably better use a car tire foot pump as getting it up to 80-100psi with a bike pump will be a challenge ;-)
@@g4z-kb7ct I have both a floor pump and a frame pump but a foot pump would make it hands-free so that's a great idea.
Now that you're sure that solder joint doesn't leak you should go ahead and fix that leaky air compressor or hose end.
I think the hissing sound you are hearing is the sound of insects outside (cicadas and such), not compressed air.
Thanks for taking the time to show your method!!
If you get some AC system valves you also get valve cores that are PTFE, which makes them resistant to much more chemicals as well. Plus no turning involved, just get those without a tail, as then all you have to make is the roughly 3/8 hole to put them in. Or put the cores in the regular valve, as they do fit, making it chemical resistant, say you want to have a spray bottle of acetone or MEK , which dissolves regular neoprene rubber very fast.
Couldn’t you pull a vacuum on the can using a set of gauges stick your refrigerant line in the WD40 can?
genius dude ty! already ordered 10 lol
Yep... the perfect source for schrader fittings. The slim brass fitting on a copper tail form makes it easy to solder in securely (without specialist tooling) and not stick out like dogs balls.
HVAC trade wholesaler is the place to go.
@@homerogonzalez2909 Naaa.. just trade and craft.
@@rchighfield1 - Yes, BUT... You will leave residue from your refill in your A/C service hoses. Not ideal, IMHO. Especially if you are filling the spray cans with something that can attack the inner hose. Still, if you have A/C gauges and hoses, you can re-pressurize the spray cans with NON-OXYGEN gas (you know which kind!), and eliminate the explosion hazard you get with compressed air. But NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen!
Bro, just put it in a Zep spray bottle! This is just ridiculous!! Spray bottles work excellent, cost under $5 and take no crazy/risky rigging.
I spend 5 dollars when I have plenty of free empty spray cans? Once modified they work better than spray bottles. Besides those spray bottles end up leaking once the seals so bad.
Fair idea for easy applications, but would t work for those times where cramped space requires you to have the can upside down and/or use a straw. Spray bottles don’t generally work upside down because the intake straw is then in an air pocket, and ice never seen a spray bottle that accepts a straw on the nozzle. …though if you know of a brand/style that does accept straws in the nozzle please let me know because I’ve got uses for a setup like that!
EVERY Spray bottle seals or plastic gets brittle with time. This is a great refillable solution for solvents, acids and even weed killer!!!!❤❤❤❤
I didn't read down for all the comments but, if you are a 737 Wrench, you have probably pressure tested a 100 things with soap bubbles. Every time I rehook propane bottles on trailers, swapping tanks on my Oxy/Acy welding tanks, aviator's breathing O2 bottles and so forth. Cheap insurance. Good vid 👍
When I was a parachute rigger we used mil-spec "Leak Tech" which was taxpayer funded liquid dish soap in an extravagant guize... Nothing like a few hits of 100% aviators breathing oxygen when there's too much red in the white of your eyes!
I found a 737R Impact Rated Precision Action Wrench. Is that what you mean?
Hallo,
This is In German.
Das ist eine tolle Idee.
Habe mir jetzt nicht alle Kommentare durchgelesen, vielleicht wurde das eine oder andere schon mitgeteilt.
Meine Erfahrung dazu ist.
Die Lebensdauer des Sprühkopfes wird auf lange Sicht nicht halten.
Ein Wöchentlicher Betrieb im Jahr ergibt eine Lebensdauer von einem halben (1/2) Jahr.
Privat habe ich Zwei die jetzt mindestens ca. 8 Jahre halten.
Die werden jetzt am Sprühkopf undicht.
Und das wiederbefüllen dauert mir persönlich recht lange da ich Bremsenreiniger verwende und den zweiten das gleiche wie WD40 bzw Caramba benutze.
Ich habe das gleiche auch mit Plastikflaschen verwendet nur die dickwandige Variante wie zb. Sinalco (0,5 L) Flaschen.
Dementsprechend habe ich von leeren Dosen die Sprühköpfe auseinander geschnitten und in die Plastik Verschraubung (Verschluss) der Flasche mit JB Weld eingeklebt.
JB Weld ist ein geiles Zeug.
Dazu gibt es auch Videos auf ,YT.
Nun kommen wir zur Sicherheit.
Bis jetzt hast du (Fast) alles richtig gemacht und hast kein Feuer (Flamme) benutzt sondern den Lötkolben.
Und nun kommen wir auch zu all deinen Zuschauern die das nachmachen wollen.
Ehrlich gesagt, ich würde die Unterseite bzw die Konkave Seite verwenden da dieses viel mehr Druck aushält. Falls jemand nicht richtig arbeitet.
( Bei mir sind es ca. 7 Bar Kompression fülldruck bei ca.3/4 auffüll Volumen).
Und ihm durch Spannungsverzerrung an der Dose um die Ohren fliegt.
Nebenbei ich habe auch vor ca. 20 Jahren wiederbefüllbare Flaschen gekauft, heute sind sie ca. das doppelte so teuer wie damals aber sie funktionieren bis heute noch gut ich habe lediglich nur die sprühköpfe erneuern müssen. Und das Auffüllen funktioniert ratzfatz.
In dem Sinne wünsche ich dir alles gute. 😊
I also bought refillable bottles about 20 years ago or so. My spray heads leak and need replaced. Where did you find replacement spray heads?
I notice the main problem with these spray type cans is the plastic spray nozzle becoming inoperable due to clogging and/or mechanical failure where it attaches to the check valve. I have yet to find a solution to fix the functionality of the nozzle/valve or safely recover contents inside the can???
By using a punch, you create more surface (mate-ing) area between the Brass Tire Valve & The Can. Great idea. Can should last a life time. Also by positioning the Brass Tire Valve @ the top of the can, (above the liquid level) you keep the solvent from continuous soaking of the Schrader Valve gasket / seal. Yes you can drill, but I would argue the punching of the hole will give a more desired mechanical result. Thanks for sharing.
Also, on your punch, after you achieve the correct diameter hole to receive the Brass Tire Valve, you could mark with a pen of some type, or scratch a line on the tip of the punch.
No swarf from drill in can to stuff up spray nozzle
@@johngibson3837 I'm jealous I didn't think about that. But that's one of the few good things about U-TUBE, the sharing of ideas. Great thinking John, you the man.
The dispensing valve in the can has a low service life, intended for single use and so, built cheap. It is not serviceable.
The can will not "last a lifetime" unless you mean a few refills.
Placing the charge valve in the base pressure dome is a stupid idea, but not for the fluid immersion issue, which the valve will always suffer, be it vapor of fluid in a pressure charged can.
Drilling into the can is a messy stupid idea. Pearce the small hole and open up by roll forming using a hardened steel rod (screwdriver shaft) is far superior.
The hole only needs to be 1/4" diameter if you buy the cheap copper hose tail Schrader fittings. (HVAC industry) Certainly not agricultural tyre stems.
About the air pressure limit? If I ask my son to put air in it, forget it. I rather use a bicycle pump, air compressor is too dangerous, WD cans are stronger than others.
@@stanwooddave9758 thanks Stan appreciate your words
The way things are going in this world we will, sooner then later, need to know many hacks like this to survive what's coming. Be prepared.
So I ordered the schrader valves, found an empty can and did this. It worked out well. I'm using it as we speak. Thanks from a "workshop type"☺
Be aware. if you overpressure it the schrader valve could explode out of the can like a bullet, especially if you accidentally drop it and the can lands "just wrong". the can itself has been weakened buy introducing a hole into its structure. Hacks like this can be very dangerous. much safer to just buy a pressure pot for your compressor or a pump pack designed for the purpose.
@@DeveloperChris You're a democrat, right?
I have a can with an air valve that I ordered years ago. I use mine for WD40 too. I do get a tad nervous when pumping air into it, but no fireballs so far.
Yes, you DO need a lathe. And a milling machine. And a TIG.
My other car nut friends don't really agree.
Guess who gets asked to do welding, turning, and milling regularly?
If you don't have that stuff, you're a "replacer", No? (Hopefully with good diagnostic skills.)
well said brother. well said.
@@bryanbeddingfield5489I agree. I only have a mini lathe but the amount of things I've made and repaired with it over the years, I sure wouldn't want to be without it now. I'd love an AC/DC TIG to tackle aluminium but they are expensive to buy and it's a real skill to master I know. I have a MIG and stick welder for the other metals so kind of get by.
There's not much you can do with a lathe or a mill that you cannot do with a file and some determination. Is it practical for someone who is spoiled with a lathe and mill, no. If you own a wood splitter you're not going to split a seasons worth of wood with an ax, but if not, you don't have to freeze to death.
To scrape a little bit of brass off with a file would probably take half the time that the rest of the project takes. Probably half the time setting up and turning down.
It doesn't take a Skin-o-matic 5000 to skin a cat either, there's a bunch of ways.
@@ricoloco2803 I was that guy, struggled with a file etc to get the job done, then I bought a lathe and mill and learned how to use them, that in itself is satisfying. At the end of the day, the moto 'right tool for the right job' applies for good reason.
@@ricoloco2803 How long would it take you to "Machine" a 5/8ths keyway in a solid 6" stainless shaft ? Thanks, you sound very knowledgeable, and talented.
No drilling, just a lathe...
This is a great idea for us "workshop types" Thanks for the upload
I worry a little about air on top of a fuel, but I suppose you could use argon if you have a bottle for a mig welder. If your valve core gets eaten up by the solvent, you could try an hvac core - fits a standard schrader but is more chemical resistant and goes to higher pressure. You can get them off the ac system on junk cars. I may try this, but fill the can with my own atf/acetone mix.
I also worry about using compressed air to pressurize atop fuel. I advise against it, and definitely NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen! Nitrogen (for filling tires) is available at some service stations. CO2 also works, and for some purposes, injecting some Butane would be a good way to pressurize. Using air also runs the risk of putting water into the can, which will rust through fairly quickly if there is any free Oxygen in the can.
My favorite DIY homemade concoction to replace the expensive liquids intended for breaking away stuck or rusted fasteners, is exactly a mix of either acetone or MEK and synthetic ATF+4, around half and half, but could vary between 60/40 to 40/60, depending on how fine or coarse are the stuck threads... Way better than "PB Blaster", "Liquiwrench", "Kroil", "Würth Rost-Off", and of course the very mediocre WD-40...
@alfredomarquez9777
Try adding some kerosene to the mix (I've seen it called Ed's Red before). I use 1:1:1 and it works a treat.
What's the atf/acetone mix for?
@@jamiepayne9801
Homemade Kroil
A really good video. I like the soldering of the valve. Nice technique.
ok chris, you win. How much for 14,000 machined brass tractor tire valve casings? lmmfao
No drilling or torch, but custom machining 😂
Or drill press, file, or grinder.
Excellent "How To" with tips to boot. I've always wanted to do this but have never seen a simpler way. Thnaks
G day from Ontario Interesting. yes the cans are getting expensive! But I notice somewhere a gal was 79 or 89.$ ??? I think
Thanks crazy the way prices are. Ths
You can always make some homebrew to save a few bucks. Like a mix of atf with a little gasoline for penetrating oil. It won't be as good as wd or kroil but it would be 1/10 the price.
Interchangeable spray patterns - best most ingenious advice this year. Thanks Mech.
Empty window-cleaner and other hand-spray bottles can be adapted to spray many other liquids too.
top tip of today. . when you're filling it with compressed air do it in an inflation cage, that's what they call them in a commercial setting but a strong cardboard box with the lid closed will suffice, when they go bang the valves are like bullets ! !
let's be careful out there,
scary
I use a cardboard box and a clip on inflator and raise the pressure remotely at the regulator. For me the box was less about safety and more about cleanliness in case of a blow out
Why does it sound like you're about to be struck by a rattlesnake?
LOL, Those are cicadas and at this time of year, they are loud.
Well, I suppose if you can do this to a starting fluid can without an explosion that makes you a bonnet out of it, we should be able to do it on about anything else. 😂😂
I was a little concerned about this too
Great idea and video. FYI could use a large turkey injector to fill,
I wouldn’t advise using an electric drill, as most use brushes, which have sparks…. If there’s any pressure in the vessel it could spray a highly combustible gas right up at the drill, and that combination may not be good for your health….
Amazing! Thank you for sharing this video. Thank you for the offer in machining the valves and the tip for the solder iron. I would be interested in about the last quarter of this year 2024. Thank you. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
I’m glad you mentioned to save the tips for the different spray patterns. The tip on the starter fluid can is like a garden hose with out a nozzle.
Ps. I love the “but you need a lathe” comment 😂😂😂
These guys will say anything to keep a laugh going…! Don’t takem seriously.😂
💦💦💦💦💦💦, so true old pump spray bottle would same results on stream setting 😅
How much for six valves and a copper tip?
Awesome idea! Will try it on my can of WD -40.
Thank you!
Aloha! 🤙
This is the best video on this subject, or project for a better word! For me, video with no music is a Big plus, even if the video is not so good, or the instructions, which is not the case here. And another fact that turn me way from any video or information online is AI. I already have the devil speaking to me, every minute, so don’t need to hear his voice, God's Voice Yes 😊. I'm disappointed though, thought I had all the necessary tools and materials to do this, but not so. I need to go out and shop for a metal lathe to get it done. Hope my wife will fall for it and do the blessing!😅😅
Same here 🤥
@@richardpetker4337 But, what the heck, spending over 1K to do a $10.00 project is not so bad! LOL!
See my post on this all you need is a drill press and a good file, I will inform your wife, you dont need a $6000 lathe, but maybe she could get you one for your birthday/christmas/fathers day.
EVERY Spray bottle seals or plastic gets brittle with time. This is a great refillable solution for solvents, acids and even weed killer!!!!❤❤❤❤
That looks like a good one!👍 I like refillable aerosol cans - when they work. Harbor Freight used to sell some, but it was hard to keep them working. Industrial quality refillables are expensive. I use trigger sprayers for some things, but they go bad, too. I like to keep a filled aerosol for my 50/50 acetone/ATF penetrant and one for WD40.
A conical drill bit or bur run in reverse can deform a nice concave hole. Using a standard fitting it can be force threaded tightly into that hole (pliershelp). Screwing it in with some quick-set epoxy (surfaces gotta be CLEAN of oil), will seal it for years.
Great job explaining the process, you called every part name correctly and overall nailed it. I don't use WD40 anymore, CRC makes a much better juice. Your shop is worth a review, I know you can make a buck using it. Get more shelving and racking. Thanks.
Acetone &ATF MIXED 50-50 Makes the best penetrating mixture! To losen frozen bolts and etc.😊
I like solder, but this job would be much easier with 5 minute epoxy.
I'd be very careful about drilling or open flame soldering (not recommended in this video) a can of starting fluid. Butane is used to pressurize many aerosol cans and it's very flammable but starting fluid is ether and it's combustible over a very wide range of fuel-air mixtures.
Just a thought, since 99.99- - % of the people who may want to try this, but don’t have a lathe, I’m assuming the reason why you want to turn the valve down is to make more space for the solder. If that’s the case try chucking the valve in a drill and using a file or bench grinder turn the valve down and emery cloth to get the size you need.
Chuck it up in a drill and use a file .Brass is pretty soft . Good Luck
See my post on this, agree with what you say, neccessity is the "mother of invention"
Great video man
Nicely done! Don't forget to label the can with what its new contents are.
Why don't you just make your own WD-40 all thats in the can is Kerosine and light weight 3 in one oil ?
For about the same price as a few schrader valves, I could instead buy a few good quality chemical spray bottles that work better and are safe, easy to fill/maintain, more reliable/robust, and even clear so I can see the content levels. I'll save my shop time for innovations that actually outperform off-the-shelf solutions (in cost if nothing else) so I can feel like my effort and time are actually worth something.
That sounds great for you.
Or buy a "Sure-Shot" refillable aerosol can from Grainger, or McMaster-Carr, heck, maybe even Harbor Freight sells them.
Don't drill metal shaving.
Usea ballpeen hammer to dimple the Can tin the Dimple.
Soak it with more solder.
I have been using 45° SAE fittings I use in A/C TRADE for 30 years +.
The SAE fittings are lower profile. The air conditioning parts house has line tapping charging fittings.
I have Coleman green bottles I have refilled 500 times, you have to be able to charge liquid from a white tank.
Be mindful about where you put the valve. If you notice, many cans have a black or red mark near the nozzle and an arrow molded into the top of it. Those are reference marks to where the sprayer should be turned so that the bent straw inside will get most of the liquid before it starts to spit. So place your valve about 90 degrees tangent to the mark either side.
At first I thought it was a waste of times and efforts . However , most of my aerosol spraying cans do stop working due to lack of pressurized air in the can . Your idea is good .
You need to shake the gal of WD before you fill because the fluid separates when it sits up in the gallon container.
I'd buy 4 of em!
email me mechanic737@hotmail.com
@@737mechanichow muck for 4 and the solder fitting
So all I need to do this project is a hammer, punch, soldering iron, oh, and a lathe.🙄
@@nix4644 Yes, I put a link to a nice lathe in the description. Or you can get creative and figure out the many other ways to achieve the same outcome.
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!!!
If anybody has ever done a propane refill like this let me know,, those little 1 lb containers that go on cook stoves and Coleman lanterns get expensive if you go out and camp or fish very much this is definitely the time to do it, have a great 4th of July stay safe and may the Lord bless you,❤
There is a special valve in stores for refilling those...But I've also seen a youtuber doing a test on those canisters and they weren't meant to be refilled. They do rust out from the Inside .. not that I wouldn't do it at a least once or twice , but mark them every time you refill them , and do your own test. Yes be safe and play safe God bless happy up coming 4th . We just finished our Canada day celebrations 🇨🇦🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
YOU HAVE " WAY TOO MUCH TIME ON YOUR HANDS " BUT I STILL LOVE YOUR IDEA .
@michael: he just likes saving 41 cents an ounce.
Styx approves of this message
SORRY TO HAVE TO SAY THIS, BUT YOU ARE ONE OF THE MILLIONS OF PEOPLE THAT THINK THAT WAY. HERE IS AN EYE OPENER FOR YOU SOME PEOPLE EAT TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO EAT. BY THE SAME TOKEN SOME WORK TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO WORK. IF YOU LIVE TO WORK YOU ARE MISSING OUT ON THE EXTRA FREE TIME FOR YOURSELF, FAMILY, FRIENDS AND OTHERS YOU WILL NEVER MEET OR GIVE HELP TOO WHEN THEY NEED IT MORE THAN YOU KNOW. PS I CURRENTLY LIVE TO WORK.
@@kevinwilson9776 Is your caps lock broken to the on position or are you shouting on purpose? This is offensive on the internet .... a breach of netiquette. Both Michael and Keven should stop this crap.
@@kevinwilson9776 ALL CAPS are rude and a breach of netiquette. You are YELLING at us. It is rude!
Never use WD40 on a lathe. Especially on the bed ways. There is specific headway oil for this.
It called "way oil" and that is what I use. Like I said in the video I never use wd40 except on aluminum the reason I was spraying it was to show how the pressurized can works.
listen owenboy we are making wd40 cans that spray and refill here, ok? we dont have time for particulars
I like your method of doing this , thanks for sharing
Is that cicadas I hear in the background?
LOL, Yes it is.
You can get the valve free at any tire shop -- when they pop the tire stem out they just get thrown away -- you will need to remove the rubber coating , and be left with the brass part to solder in the can
You should tap it and thread it in and then solder. That would give you a little more safety if something should be wrong with your solder job.
Good luck tapping metal that thin, probably half a millimeter (NZ here so metric) max.
@@billharrison3174 I have tapped stuff that thin, you can't get a lot of purchase and you have to go slow but it can be done.
Nice vid! What product do you prefer on aluminum? You mentioned you don’t use WD-40.
BRILLIANT!!!! You're a genius.
Or you could put WD40 in an old bathroom spray cleaner bottle. Write "WD40" on the side to stop your wife oiling the bath. Job done.
Thank you for a very neat way to salvage cans and save cash. I like it!
I looked on ebay and they make a refillable aerosol spray can, and it’s pretty much identical to what you made but 50 bucks!
Very nice demo. Will do the same, thanks.