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It would be neat if someone could build an arduino controller that would take the data from infrared thermometers and have it control the induction heater so that you could temper steel. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would be useful for tool tips like the ends of screw drivers and chisels or for home blacksmithing.
1970s we sharpened pickaxes for the road gangs in the forge, draw the tip to a point, partly quench to harden the tip rub the tip on the floor to make it shiny and wait for the colour bands to creep up from the residual heat and then fully quench at Purple to set the temper.
I always wondered why that wasn't that process in play - but there was - that was manly work you know ? you'd think the same for larger construction shovels - they would have a thuggy boy forge to throw the shovel teeth into to keep them hard
I sharpened a chisel back in the 90’s on a grinder, didn’t know anything about hardening but the tip changed colour, so I sprayed it with wd40, don’t use it often but it’s still hair shaving sharp
@@1988dgs I guess the WD40 evaporation did the trick to cool and set the temper. As part of my 1979 apprenticeship, a hacksaw project to test skills was to make a 6 inch G clamp out of solid flat bar. At the end the task was to put it in an electric furnace to temper it BLUE but mine came out dark brown, the lesson learned was the electric furnace dial is not accurate ;-) The year before at school I was told to make a cast aluminium G clamp the same size :-)) I think I still have it as a paper weight ;-) The skill being taught was green sand casting. Glad you kept the chisel all the best
@@jdhtyler Unless the chisel reached red hot (austenizing point specifically), the only thing that happened was it got softer. Spraying WD-40 on something with blue or purple oxide will just cool the softened steel faster.
I ran an industrial induction heater as a lad. The coils were liquid cooled and we annealed hydraulic cylinder shafts up to 4" OD. It made a fine hot dog cooker if ya skewered the hot dog with a piece of wire though getting the timing right took some pedal practice.
I got one of these for a tough job repairing front suspension of a car, could not use flame near the firewall / floor with insulation and carpeting. Worked good.
You’re spot on, since the release of this video, I ordered 2.5mm solid copper wire and you also need a roll of 3mm fibreglass sleeves. Just make your own. Even cheaper than the ore fabricated coils :)
This induction heating effect from coiled wire is precisely why we as electricians are no longer permitted to instal helix coils at the entrance to electrical equipment -previously they were installed to help absorb vibration
Induction also works on non ferric, even non metal material, the material only should conduct electricity. Aluminium need more electric field, it gets hot, but not always, if the field isn't strong enough. It also works on carbon, like a graphite crucible to melt metals in it.
@@VintageEngineRepairs you're welcome. its also depends on mass, if there is more mass it can induce more heat, but more mass needs more heat, it spreads evenly. small things get hot, as bigger once, but i think bigger things got better mass to surface ratio therefore, less heat dissipation.most effect as already mentioned is the distance to the coil and turns. Tubes are a good shape, for that. Its really try and error, depending on the device.
I came here to say that. It relies on induced current, so the target only need to conduct. You can heat up carbon with an induction heater... Try a pencil, the graphite will work (have a bucket of water ready!)
@@juststeve5542 Pencil works best with 24V DC on both ends :D its a quality test *just kidding*, bad pencils can detonate, not really violently but a bit scary, when the wood releases gases on the inside. wear protection, do it outside, with no flammables near, water bucket ready :D but that's not induction, it's fun.
I noticed that some of the centerfire rifle brass has the neck annealed by induction coils by some of the makers. Others still run a flame in their manufacturing process. Induction annealing just takes a second or two for a brass cartridge.
Sorry for all the comments. But strangely enough it comes through Amazon over here. Which means it will be here very quickly Thanks again for the video.
Hey :) haha I guess you missed the text above the USA / UK link 😂 Vevor contacted me saying they don’t sell them on their US / UK websites any more so I found the identical product on Amazon for you guys :)
I'm interested in induction heaters for a number of years but they used to be closer to like 800€ so I was considering to brew my own. This model while still not cheap is much more affordable and the underlying technology actually has the potential to get much cheaper.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I think it's a very simple device. A Basic version needs only a transformer and I was wondering if a classic welding transformer at a suitable setting could be used. A fancier version would use actual electronics. Something to experiment on, I guess 🙂
Great content I always wished I had an oxy/ acetylene torch for stuck bolts and parts, but if you don’t have a lot of use for it, the expense and tank lease isn’t feasible. I bought one of these inductive heaters, and it’s almost always better than a torch. No starting the engine compartment on fire, or damaging anything in close proximity. Love this tool, even after 6-7 years. I think I paid about $450 online. For cutting, I can often soak welding rod in water for a bit and cut with that, or use a small plasma cutter for finer work. Also, I use an induction cooktop that I busted the glass on to heat larger areas and non protruding parts. This just reenforced my reluctance to throw anything away that might be usable if modified. For non ferrous materials, you can stick a piece of iron on it.
Refillable propane bottles come in different sizes. Some bottles are on exchange basis if you prefer otherwise it's retest every 5 years. Advantage of owning own bottle is gas cost. Numerous sizes of tips for propane for increase or decrease in flame type, i.e needle point for extra low heat to wider for large area heating without the need for different sized torch handles, no need for a regulator as the handle is the reg i.e restrictive orifice. The device you show if it could heat a u shape coil would make it more effective on pipe or other material where you want to join stuff without it looping around the object
Very true! I use Map/pro so it’s just the one size by bernzomatic. Unless you know or other more affordable Map/pro out there? You can heat up shape u-shape material. Just bend the coils to the profile - it doesn’t have to wrap all the way around. Regarding propane vs induction, propane has its place without question! They compliment eachother and have areas where they excel!
I just upgraded to oxy-propane and the accuracy of heating is nice rather than the broader flame of mapp burner, but the induction looks even faster (but not nearly as exciting as holding a lit blowtorch!).
I had one it blew up after 5th cycle, I kept within the 2 minutes but i suspect not waiting 5 minutes in-between each cycle compounds the heat. Still a good tool ill probably go for the slightly more expensive one with a remote box for the electronics.
They're wonderful tools, but there's so many brands and models out there ranging from very expensive to very cheap. Hard to know what's good quality, effective and reliable. How does a $150 model perform vs a $1500 model and how much use and abuse can they handle over time? For now, I'll make do with the old torch.
Yeah they’re brilliant!! Regarding longevity, I’ll certainly do an update video in a year and share how it’s holding up :) this is aimed at the home mechanic of course, but I’ll be using it professionally so I’ll be putting it through its paces. Thanks for watching!
It has its uses, but it definitely doesn’t eliminate the need for a good torch for brazing things in the shop. It’s pretty limited, but useful. If it’s cheap and you like brazing 8mm nuts onto threaded rods all day I say 👍🏼. Buy one.
Good article. Only thing to mention is that 'ductility' is the ability of a metal to be drawn out into a thin wire. The word you want to describe the ability to bend a metal is 'malleability'.
Induction heaters beat the large unfocused flame of common LP torches as they're far more localized. The only thing I use the LP torch shown for is lighting my grill. While acetylene is easily available in the US apparently UK insurance companies are worried by it so the inductor wins on that score too.
Can’t beat the control and speed of an induction heater. There are instances where they won’t work, but I always go for the induction heater and fall back on the propane if necessary :)
Very good review. A totally agree with you. We need both of them. I certainly did enjoy your comparison at the end. I believe you touched on every point and very well at that you were quite fair in your review. Thank you for the effort you put into the video.
Please be sure to cover the effects on magnetic parts and if they are in close proximity of the part you intend to work on. These can effect the nature and power of the magnet
First of your vids I have watched and found it very enjoyable and ofc educational. I would say if I had a beef, it would be you priced a propane kit, but left us in the dark on the induction lot. I know that many utubers are reluctant to price items maybe because they fluxuate which may draw comments, but I have found most of us just want a general idea of the cost to stick in our nuggets and try and rationalize how badly we want said item, not to quibble over who may sell one for less etc. Anyways, I watched it for heating exhaust studs, which most know if you don't many will snap off in the most convenient of places. So one other issue would be accessibility of getting them in tight spaces. Can you make longer ones? Just food for thought on usability. I like the idea of no open flame while working on a gas powered anything and control over what gets heated, like not worrying over your torch tip setting something on fire or melting a bit of plastic which all newer things seem to be built with. IE: Damage control. Anyways, thanks so much.
Hey, no I didn’t, I showed the price of the induction kit when I was talking about comparing prices. It was circa $300 Australian dollars. I don’t know the exact figure now as I made this video a fair while ago, but the price is there for everyone to see.
Shut up and take my money! Love your channel, simply presented and a wealth ot tips. I'm curious where you are based in Australia (if you are close I'd definitely call by with a repair)
Oooh.. This is temptation. I have a collection of thin walled mild steel tent and marquee poles for repurposing into useful new things, or just for creative fun. I am building my own truss for a new shed roof right now and plan to make custom curtain poles next. Arc welding thin walled steel together is time consuming and tricky - so easy to blow holes instead of make neat joints. Not long taken delivery of some Polybend, a non-toxic plastic version of low melt metal such as Woods Metal, so I can bend the tubes without losing the circular profile. I can see this induction heater heating two thin steel tube ends to welding temperature so all I have to do is push them together to make a join. If that doesn't work I'll braze the two ends. Neat, easy and quicker than arc welding. Off to check bank account...
Awesome project for the induction heater! That’s a great way to do it, as you say - its easy to blow a hole through it with welding, at least with my level of skill haha. This is a fool proof method for brazing :)
I usually switch off as soon as I see a video is sponsored [especially by Vevor, who must have bribed half of RUclips to give them glowing reviews] but I did stick around til the end of this one because you did at least go a bit "off-piste" by trying a few interestig experiments with it.
Thanks for the kind words :) let me start out with saying I fully understand what you mean, I feel the same way watching other reviews. I hope that over the years I have shown to be a valuable source of honest, unbiased content. I made it very clear to Vevor that anything I review will be done so in a fair, honest and unbiased way. That I don’t guarantee a positive video review nor will I structure or base it around a framework or wording stipulated by them. No one can buy or control my channel or reputation. Now, let me also say, Vevor have been just wonderful. All they ever ask for is my own experience be it good or bad. Either way, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and it offered value you haven’t seen in other ones on this tool :)
I have a vevor pcp pump and a magnetic drill. They get some good use and abuse and they still work. Currently eyeing one of their ultrasonic cleaners, and now this thing is on the list too 😂 I've had good luck with them so far. I buy them directly on AE and not from their store, then you can save a little bit more.
So. I bought this. While I think it could probably heat a seized nut I can’t for the life of me get it to reach anything close to cherry red on a simple 1/4” mild steel rod.
Is it reallistic to imagine the coil overheating a conic stamp of some sort (tungsten?) to plunge into steel plates, to avoid drilling countersink hole in like armor or wear resistant sheets?
Thanks for the sub :) glad you enjoyed the video! Yeah it’s been terrific, I use it constantly now. I grab it before the propane torch at any given opportunity.
Because carbide isn’t ferrous it can’t be brazed using the induction heater sadly! I’m not sure if the radiant heat would be sufficient to heat the carbide up enough.
@@VintageEngineRepairs or if you could make (drill out ) a steel shell that form fitted over the tooth - maybe wrap a soft iron wire into a form around the carbide tooth ?
@@VintageEngineRepairs Your demonstration of tempering and annealing was amazing and lucid - putting into action my old welding text book explanations - brittle as glass and then ductile as a soft iron nail and yet the same identical material - almost magic
Using a steel rod / bolt inside a hollow brass fitting that has a split, I wonder if the radiant heat would silver solder the split wrapped with a shim of brass / copper to reinforce the split. Back in the 1980s we used special spelter rods that had flux in them. They were put on top of each tube to braze copper heat exchange fins and but on a chain belt to run through a bright brazing furnace it was a big thing about the size of a small bus. There were 12off 6inch diameter 5 ft long SS tubes with gas burner in each one We also had an Exothermic generator next to it that produced an oxygen free atmosphere One of my tasks was to service the burners and check the 12 burners combustion with an oxygen sensor.
@@VintageEngineRepairs The middle coupling on my power washer wand has split brass fatigue split because I used a rotary brush, the power washer is over 20y old and very heavy, the lightweight plastic same make replacement failed after 10y the motor bolts came loose and stripped the gear drive to the pump. The most dodgy repair we did to at the Blacksmiths shop was a hydraulic coupling we wire wrapped it in steel wire and brazed it. It held for the customer. My dad once repaired a fire engine cast iron gearbox that struck a rock and was in 16 pieces, using special nickel stick rods it was welded back together and kept warm on the forge to stop it cracking when it cooled. You turn it over by hand but it did squeak a bit, back in the 1970s a UK recession they could not get a new gearbox. 1930s my grandad made a micrometer, I still have it. I have a picture with him working in front of the Shaper and thread turning lathe ;-) he is shoeing a Shire horse for the local Brewery ;-) He hated the horses leaning on him..... He and my dad were small build I and my GGrandad were big chaps. Great days I learned to weld stick when I was 10y and in 1980s I bought my dad a Hobart TIG plant that was used in the Irish factory that made Delorean cars... One time my dad was on holiday and I had to visit the library to figure out how to repair a missing blade on two out board engines a Yamaha 70 and a (Mercury 70 I reckon this had more magnesium because I nearly set the prop on fire ) I balanced both props on a set of parallel bars using a flap disk. Those were the days without the WWW
Why ferris metals necessary? We boiled water with an aluminum ring headed via induction in physics class. You can induce a current in any conductor. They even use induced currents to sort condutative metals from non-conductive scrap in recycling.
I’m really not sure, I believe because induction works off magnetism and exciting the iron in the material. It seems to work on non ferrous but is far less effective unless it’s thin tubing.
Very interesting, never seen this kind of tool. Great for silver soldering as shown but does it work in same situation with regular brazing rod that needs a bit higher heat?
Hey, I haven’t tried other rods, but for reference these are 45% silver brazing rods and require 1250f which melted very quickly. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Has anyone tried this tool for heating HVAC copper tubing for heat punp and air conditioning equipment? Since brass tubing works it would be wonderful if you could braze copper tubing.
@@VintageEngineRepairs It would be interesting to see if you could just take a 3/4" or 1 inch copper nipple and a coupling and silver braze that. It would be a quick low cost way to check the capability. I'd bet the HVAC guys would love this as opposed to a torch.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I’m a licensed full time professional gunsmith ( >35y) and almost daily do the heat treatment and bending like you demonstrated. Making parts & tools. Silver brazing, which I should do more, I tend to avoid because torch is often difficult to apply. This could be an excellent source of heat for me. Never knew they made them this small & compact
@thatsthewayitgoes9 They really are amazing, you’d find them an absolutely fantastic tool in your instance, localised heat, controllable and won’t burn anything else around the work area! I have used mine almost every day since it arrived for different tasks around the workshop! I’ve added links in the description - see the updated version I have linked to, I think you’ll be even more impressed! Also, buy 2.5mm copper coil and 3mm fibreglass sleeves and make your own coils. It’s even cheaper than the pre formed ones. Also save the copper, anneal it and reuse it when the fibreglass sheathing does eventually fail!
10:02 It should not bend , it should be springy . The issue here is that you partially annealed this part when you brought the first part to red. So it's not hard anymore where it bends.
I wonder why it can only heat ferrous metal. The electricity flowing in the heater coil ought to induce current in any conductor. For example, the primary and secondary windings of a transformer are coils of copper wire.
It’s an electromagnet and because the metal being heated needs to be ferrous I believe that’s where brass and other non ferrous metals won’t work. However I’m no expert, just using logic so open to any correction!
Transformers use copper wire, but they still require a ferromagnetic core to transfer the magnetic field efficiently. With induction heating, the workpiece is the ferromagnetic core. Induction heating does technically work with nonferrous metals, but it’s so inefficient (lossy) that it takes enormous amounts of energy to actually heat the workpiece, or conversely, the heating effect is uselessly small with ordinary equipment.
Doesn't need to be magnetic metal to heat up. Eddie current is induced in all metals as far as I know. Mass / shape is more important than anything, me thinks.
@@VintageEngineRepairs interesting! I wonder why. I'm gonna guess that it has to do with dissipation of heat in copper and aluminum. Can you check the front end loading? My guess is that it loads the same and dumps the same heat in but it travels down the bar faster. Though I'm happy to be wrong. Such interesting stuff
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I must admit, I went in skeptical, but as soon as I used it for the first time on the cable and it was glowing red in 10 seconds I was giggling like a little kid hahah. Knowing I’m not using gas for minutes at a time to achieve the same thing certainly feels good too lol
Since it only works with ferrous metal, I wonder if some sort of steel insert could be used to place into an aluminum engine block then heated up for bearing installation.
Actually.... I'm not sure why they make this claim- I purchased one several years ago for many things; but primarily for annealing brass (a non ferrous metal) cartridge cases, & it works fantastic!
They could have made 2 in 1 , not just heater , flip a switch and its electromagnet , making you able to magetize your whatever you need magnetized , or demagnetized , maybe 3in1 , its a same device just difrent type of current and fields , that electronics can do , its in there .
@@VintageEngineRepairs yeah heating is done via high AC current , electromagnet same thing just DC current . Sure it would not be perfect one , would need more coils but due to high current it would do the trick im sure . And its a matter of putting in a diode or 2 , rectifiers . But i guess they want to sell that separately .
hola maestro buendia una pregunta Tengo un problema con una motosierra Stihl MS 260 qué cree mucho se quiebran los resortes del clutch por qué se los pongo nuevos y dilata 23 días y se vuelven a romper qué me tocará revisar allí maestro gracias
Hmm, if they’re breaking, a few things come to mind, are they oem? Is the clutch drum oem? Is the location of where the mount on the clutch shoes worn? Is the clutch oem?
Voy a revisar maestro eso sí no lo he revisado por eso pedí su opinión por lo pronto gracias maestro cualquier cosa lo mantendré informado saludos y cuídese
Hola mi amigo buenas noches Una pregunta maestro tengo una güira desbrozadora que cuando jaló el cordón de arranque se mueve el cabezal qué problema está pasando allí
Hey; it was welding - my glove caught on fire! No idea exactly how, but it felt hot but I wanted to finish the last few seconds and I thought it was radiant heat. It was my finger on fire… ouch!
Do they sell or is it easy to find that wire you make the coils out of incase you want or need to make more or larger custom coils? If what your trying to heat up touches the induction coils will you get shocked?
Since this video I ordered 2.5mm copper wire and insulation to make my own and always have on hand. Yes, if the metal coils touch metal, the tool sparks. Not good lol
Having used propane, mapp, and oxy/acetylene, all of my life, I have always dreamed of having an induction heater to get even better use of heat. The only problem is it has to be a ferrous material for it to work, as it uses a magnetic field to induce the heat, and non ferrous metals do not react to a magnetic field.
It’s very strange, it is useless on solid brass bar, but on brass tube it’s fantastic (glowing red in 10 seconds) however I have only tried brass not Aluminum.
Not strictly true. Induction heating creates a very high amperage current in the workpiece. Even pure silver should melt if you have enough magnetic field strength and current. It just gets harder to achieve the correct parameters for melting with lower resistance materials like copper, silver and gold. You can buy an induction furnace designed for that specific job though.
hola buenas tardes mi amigo Tengo un sopladora de la marca Ryobi se pierde el tiempo el macneto con la bobina y no me arranca que puedo hacer gracias saludos
Great idea on the temp range onto the tool - maybe they'll see it and use the idea - I think the induction heater is a function of IGBT transistors being developed and yes - for me getting off the stuck nut on exhaust manifolds is a perfect use
How can price be a draw you included the cost of propane but you didn't include the cost of electric and induction heaters take a lot of electric, cost / con was a draw for the same reason, but i still agree with you conclusions well done in the most part.
Hey mate, it’s a fair point, but when I calculated the cost of a 10 second burst which was basically (within a few seconds) what it took to heat nuts, bolts and shafts up to cherry red with the induction heater it cost $0.0017. It’s so marginal.
You solder by heating the parent metal and letting the parent metal melt the solder, otherwise you get a dry solder joint that is weak and is less conductive electrically.
Thanks John, it’s shockingly quick isn’t it. And that rod I brazed a nut to - I made another copper coil with 8 wraps rather than 3, the whole punch was glowing bright red within about 10 seconds. Unreal…
Wow ! on your nut to bolt weld / solder - the lack of oxygen is probably huge - a gas heater may introduce Oxygen ? (somehow) - this heating process seems so clean the joint should be superior - also could that be done with brazing also ?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Thanks for the reply - I know about the flux but I'm wondering if the lack of 'gases' in some way is positive - just intuitively I feel like this magnetic oscillation of the magnetic domains is more 'sterile' in combination of the flux to have less oxygen around the joint
@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st You can remove oxygen from the material using a hydrogen rich flame (hydrogen reduction) as the piece remains heated in an oxygen environment, it will reabsorb oxygen. An inert shielding gas can prevent this by displacing oxygen. All that said, hydrogen embrittlement is a real thing. Not sure I answered any questions...
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Fast reply thanks - yeah you answered it in two ways - I used to weld Oxy Accetlyne - and I've had embrittlement issues - this induction method would be great in an invert environment - - I like this tool most for getting frozen nuts in tight places where flames would be dangerous
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Nicely done! Very nicely done!
@@nothankyou5524 thank you!
It would be neat if someone could build an arduino controller that would take the data from infrared thermometers and have it control the induction heater so that you could temper steel. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would be useful for tool tips like the ends of screw drivers and chisels or for home blacksmithing.
Welp.. I'm sold.
This tool has just become a must-have for my humble little shop.
1970s we sharpened pickaxes for the road gangs in the forge, draw the tip to a point, partly quench to harden the tip rub the tip on the floor to make it shiny and wait for the colour bands to creep up from the residual heat and then fully quench at Purple to set the temper.
Crazy! Thanks for sharing :)
I always wondered why that wasn't that process in play - but there was - that was manly work you know ? you'd think the same for larger construction shovels - they would have a thuggy boy forge to throw the shovel teeth into to keep them hard
I sharpened a chisel back in the 90’s on a grinder, didn’t know anything about hardening but the tip changed colour, so I sprayed it with wd40, don’t use it often but it’s still hair shaving sharp
@@1988dgs I guess the WD40 evaporation did the trick to cool and set the temper.
As part of my 1979 apprenticeship, a hacksaw project to test skills was to make a 6 inch G clamp out of solid flat bar. At the end the task was to put it in an electric furnace to temper it BLUE but mine came out dark brown, the lesson learned was the electric furnace dial is not accurate ;-)
The year before at school I was told to make a cast aluminium G clamp the same size :-)) I think I still have it as a paper weight ;-) The skill being taught was green sand casting.
Glad you kept the chisel
all the best
@@jdhtyler Unless the chisel reached red hot (austenizing point specifically), the only thing that happened was it got softer.
Spraying WD-40 on something with blue or purple oxide will just cool the softened steel faster.
I'm sorry I watched this video. Now I need to get another toy and sneak it into my workshop.
😂😂😂👍🏻
Saaame
my wife is at the store, I'm still on tool video probation.... I'll have to clear my history 😂
I ran an industrial induction heater as a lad. The coils were liquid cooled and we annealed hydraulic cylinder shafts up to 4" OD. It made a fine hot dog cooker if ya skewered the hot dog with a piece of wire though getting the timing right took some pedal practice.
LOL! Love it 😂
What a lad you were.
I got one of these for a tough job repairing front suspension of a car, could not use flame near the firewall / floor with insulation and carpeting. Worked good.
Awesome! Pleased to hear it :)
You can use bare copper wire of the proper gage as long as the coils do not touch. But that would only be in case you couldn't get replacement coils.
You’re spot on, since the release of this video, I ordered 2.5mm solid copper wire and you also need a roll of 3mm fibreglass sleeves. Just make your own. Even cheaper than the ore fabricated coils :)
@@VintageEngineRepairsand @vhoward1122 Thanks for the money saving tip!
Many thanks for this , I’m definitely going to purchase one for the workshop , what make is this one please
This induction heating effect from coiled wire is precisely why we as electricians are no longer permitted to instal helix coils at the entrance to electrical equipment -previously they were installed to help absorb vibration
Interesting! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻
I'll give you fifty bucks if you can get a bit of coiled mains supply lead to appreciably induction heat something.
@@godfreypoon5148 SWA singles count for the $50?
Induction also works on non ferric, even non metal material, the material only should conduct electricity.
Aluminium need more electric field, it gets hot, but not always, if the field isn't strong enough.
It also works on carbon, like a graphite crucible to melt metals in it.
Thanks for sharing! I tried a small brass bar it was hardly even warm after 10 seconds. I tried brass tube and it was glowing.
@@VintageEngineRepairs you're welcome. its also depends on mass, if there is more mass it can induce more heat, but more mass needs more heat, it spreads evenly. small things get hot, as bigger once, but i think bigger things got better mass to surface ratio therefore, less heat dissipation.most effect as already mentioned is the distance to the coil and turns. Tubes are a good shape, for that. Its really try and error, depending on the device.
I came here to say that. It relies on induced current, so the target only need to conduct.
You can heat up carbon with an induction heater... Try a pencil, the graphite will work (have a bucket of water ready!)
@@juststeve5542 Pencil works best with 24V DC on both ends :D its a quality test *just kidding*, bad pencils can detonate, not really violently but a bit scary, when the wood releases gases on the inside. wear protection, do it outside, with no flammables near, water bucket ready :D but that's not induction, it's fun.
Thank you. It’s quite cheap today. Around 200 euro including shipping. This is the next tool I’m going to get.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Propane cylinders are blue and, map gas cylinders are yellow and are hotter. And I could really use that heater ! Great demo .
Sadly the Map/Pro by barometric is only 100 degrees difference to the blue now days! Glad you enjoyed it :)
I noticed that some of the centerfire rifle brass has the neck annealed by induction coils by some of the makers. Others still run a flame in their manufacturing process. Induction annealing just takes a second or two for a brass cartridge.
You’re spot on, even though it’s non ferrous, tubing like you mention glows red in a few seconds :) solid brass won’t though.
Induction works on steel, minimum effect on brass
Sorry for all the comments. But strangely enough it comes through Amazon over here. Which means it will be here very quickly
Thanks again for the video.
Hey :) haha I guess you missed the text above the USA / UK link 😂 Vevor contacted me saying they don’t sell them on their US / UK websites any more so I found the identical product on Amazon for you guys :)
I'm interested in induction heaters for a number of years but they used to be closer to like 800€ so I was considering to brew my own. This model while still not cheap is much more affordable and the underlying technology actually has the potential to get much cheaper.
Yes it’s incredible how much kore accessible many electronics have become!!
@@VintageEngineRepairs I think it's a very simple device. A Basic version needs only a transformer and I was wondering if a classic welding transformer at a suitable setting could be used. A fancier version would use actual electronics. Something to experiment on, I guess 🙂
Great content
I always wished I had an oxy/ acetylene torch for stuck bolts and parts, but if you don’t have a lot of use for it, the expense and tank lease isn’t feasible. I bought one of these inductive heaters, and it’s almost always better than a torch. No starting the engine compartment on fire, or damaging anything in close proximity. Love this tool, even after 6-7 years. I think I paid about $450 online.
For cutting, I can often soak welding rod in water for a bit and cut with that, or use a small plasma cutter for finer work.
Also, I use an induction cooktop that I busted the glass on to heat larger areas and non protruding parts. This just reenforced my reluctance to throw anything away that might be usable if modified. For non ferrous materials, you can stick a piece of iron on it.
Awesome and thanks for sharing! 👍🏻👍🏻
Very cool tool. Might have to grab one.
They’re awesome!
Refillable propane bottles come in different sizes. Some bottles are on exchange basis if you prefer otherwise it's retest every 5 years. Advantage of owning own bottle is gas cost. Numerous sizes of tips for propane for increase or decrease in flame type, i.e needle point for extra low heat to wider for large area heating without the need for different sized torch handles, no need for a regulator as the handle is the reg i.e restrictive orifice.
The device you show if it could heat a u shape coil would make it more effective on pipe or other material where you want to join stuff without it looping around the object
Very true! I use Map/pro so it’s just the one size by bernzomatic. Unless you know or other more affordable Map/pro out there? You can heat up shape u-shape material. Just bend the coils to the profile - it doesn’t have to wrap all the way around. Regarding propane vs induction, propane has its place without question! They compliment eachother and have areas where they excel!
I just upgraded to oxy-propane and the accuracy of heating is nice rather than the broader flame of mapp burner, but the induction looks even faster (but not nearly as exciting as holding a lit blowtorch!).
@@mikelastname gotta love the controllability of oxy!!!
Wow, what a great tool. Very handy in the workshop especially for stubborn bolt removal and making custom tools etc
Spot on :) I agree!
I had one it blew up after 5th cycle, I kept within the 2 minutes but i suspect not waiting 5 minutes in-between each cycle compounds the heat. Still a good tool ill probably go for the slightly more expensive one with a remote box for the electronics.
Ah sorry to hear it! I hope you managed to get your money back :)
Thanks for the very thorough video. I have no choice but to get one now! 👍
Hahaha you’ll love it 😂👍🏻
They're wonderful tools, but there's so many brands and models out there ranging from very expensive to very cheap. Hard to know what's good quality, effective and reliable. How does a $150 model perform vs a $1500 model and how much use and abuse can they handle over time? For now, I'll make do with the old torch.
Yeah they’re brilliant!! Regarding longevity, I’ll certainly do an update video in a year and share how it’s holding up :) this is aimed at the home mechanic of course, but I’ll be using it professionally so I’ll be putting it through its paces. Thanks for watching!
Thanks alot, buddy. Dangle the porkchop in our face and then tell us we can't have one. 🤣
That things slick as snot on a raincoat. 👍🍻
Mate it’s so bad I know!! sorry hahaha
I have been looking for ine if these for a couple years. Thank you for show us this!
You’re very welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it :)
It has its uses, but it definitely doesn’t eliminate the need for a good torch for brazing things in the shop. It’s pretty limited, but useful. If it’s cheap and you like brazing 8mm nuts onto threaded rods all day I say 👍🏼. Buy one.
Thanks for watching
Good article. Only thing to mention is that 'ductility' is the ability of a metal to be drawn out into a thin wire. The word you want to describe the ability to bend a metal is 'malleability'.
Ah thanks for the correction! :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Happy to assist.
I think you are being overly pedantic. Ductile also means "able to be deformed without losing toughness; pliable, not brittle."
Induction heaters beat the large unfocused flame of common LP torches as they're far more localized. The only thing I use the LP torch shown for is lighting my grill.
While acetylene is easily available in the US apparently UK insurance companies are worried by it so the inductor wins on that score too.
Can’t beat the control and speed of an induction heater. There are instances where they won’t work, but I always go for the induction heater and fall back on the propane if necessary :)
Very good review. A totally agree with you. We need both of them. I certainly did enjoy your comparison at the end. I believe you touched on every point and very well at that you were quite fair in your review. Thank you for the effort you put into the video.
Hey Glen! Thanks for the kind words and feedback :) much appreciated and I’m glad it resonated with you!
Please be sure to cover the effects on magnetic parts and if they are in close proximity of the part you intend to work on. These can effect the nature and power of the magnet
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
First of your vids I have watched and found it very enjoyable and ofc educational. I would say if I had a beef, it would be you priced a propane kit, but left us in the dark on the induction lot. I know that many utubers are reluctant to price items maybe because they fluxuate which may draw comments, but I have found most of us just want a general idea of the cost to stick in our nuggets and try and rationalize how badly we want said item, not to quibble over who may sell one for less etc. Anyways, I watched it for heating exhaust studs, which most know if you don't many will snap off in the most convenient of places. So one other issue would be accessibility of getting them in tight spaces. Can you make longer ones? Just food for thought on usability. I like the idea of no open flame while working on a gas powered anything and control over what gets heated, like not worrying over your torch tip setting something on fire or melting a bit of plastic which all newer things seem to be built with. IE: Damage control. Anyways, thanks so much.
Hey, no I didn’t, I showed the price of the induction kit when I was talking about comparing prices. It was circa $300 Australian dollars. I don’t know the exact figure now as I made this video a fair while ago, but the price is there for everyone to see.
Shut up and take my money!
Love your channel, simply presented and a wealth ot tips.
I'm curious where you are based in Australia (if you are close I'd definitely call by with a repair)
Haha thanks for the kind words :) I’m in Western Australia!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Ah bugger. Guess I'll have to just learn myself from your videos :) Many thanks from SA
It sure did resonate. So much so that I just ordered one. Not too bad either with tax and all it was around $240 USD
Awesome :) you’ll love it!
Oooh.. This is temptation.
I have a collection of thin walled mild steel tent and marquee poles for repurposing into useful new things, or just for creative fun. I am building my own truss for a new shed roof right now and plan to make custom curtain poles next. Arc welding thin walled steel together is time consuming and tricky - so easy to blow holes instead of make neat joints.
Not long taken delivery of some Polybend, a non-toxic plastic version of low melt metal such as Woods Metal, so I can bend the tubes without losing the circular profile.
I can see this induction heater heating two thin steel tube ends to welding temperature so all I have to do is push them together to make a join. If that doesn't work I'll braze the two ends. Neat, easy and quicker than arc welding.
Off to check bank account...
Awesome project for the induction heater! That’s a great way to do it, as you say - its easy to blow a hole through it with welding, at least with my level of skill haha. This is a fool proof method for brazing :)
Nice demo. Thank you for sharing.
You’re welcome :) thanks for watching!
I need this for my Nectar Collector
I had to google that 😂
I saw a guy in a 3rd world country using a larger one to make a knife & i was amazed. I've only used induction for cooking & love it.
The best cook tops aren’t they!! :)
….😅
Ha i made one myself years ago hehe high current heating good stuff
Sweet!! Good job 👍🏻
I usually switch off as soon as I see a video is sponsored [especially by Vevor, who must have bribed half of RUclips to give them glowing reviews] but I did stick around til the end of this one because you did at least go a bit "off-piste" by trying a few interestig experiments with it.
Thanks for the kind words :) let me start out with saying I fully understand what you mean, I feel the same way watching other reviews. I hope that over the years I have shown to be a valuable source of honest, unbiased content. I made it very clear to Vevor that anything I review will be done so in a fair, honest and unbiased way. That I don’t guarantee a positive video review nor will I structure or base it around a framework or wording stipulated by them. No one can buy or control my channel or reputation. Now, let me also say, Vevor have been just wonderful. All they ever ask for is my own experience be it good or bad. Either way, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and it offered value you haven’t seen in other ones on this tool :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs That was a very nice statement you just made!
Cheers
I have a vevor pcp pump and a magnetic drill. They get some good use and abuse and they still work.
Currently eyeing one of their ultrasonic cleaners, and now this thing is on the list too 😂 I've had good luck with them so far. I buy them directly on AE and not from their store, then you can save a little bit more.
Just looked it up on eBay, cheaper than I expected, under $200
That’s about right yes :) very minimal running costs too!
Here in the USSA, the yellow cylinders are MAP gas and the Blue or green cylinders are LP (Propane).
Spot on 👍🏻
So. I bought this. While I think it could probably heat a seized nut I can’t for the life of me get it to reach anything close to cherry red on a simple 1/4” mild steel rod.
Hey, hmm something isn’t right there! If you aren’t getting it cherry red, use more coils and tighter wraps (closer to the object you’re heating).
Is it reallistic to imagine the coil overheating a conic stamp of some sort (tungsten?) to plunge into steel plates, to avoid drilling countersink hole in like armor or wear resistant sheets?
I’m sorry mate I have no idea!
Excellent info and now subscribed to your channel. I had no idea that these induction heating tools existed.
Thanks for the sub :) glad you enjoyed the video! Yeah it’s been terrific, I use it constantly now. I grab it before the propane torch at any given opportunity.
i'd have liked to see you braze carbide cutters to boring bars for lathes.
Because carbide isn’t ferrous it can’t be brazed using the induction heater sadly! I’m not sure if the radiant heat would be sufficient to heat the carbide up enough.
@@VintageEngineRepairs or if you could make (drill out ) a steel shell that form fitted over the tooth - maybe wrap a soft iron wire into a form around the carbide tooth ?
Interesting! Great ideas to try :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Your demonstration of tempering and annealing was amazing and lucid - putting into action my old welding text book explanations - brittle as glass and then ductile as a soft iron nail and yet the same identical material - almost magic
Isn’t it incredible. Steel is a wonderful material!
Using a steel rod / bolt inside a hollow brass fitting that has a split, I wonder if the radiant heat would silver solder the split wrapped with a shim of brass / copper to reinforce the split.
Back in the 1980s we used special spelter rods that had flux in them. They were put on top of each tube to braze copper heat exchange fins and but on a chain belt to run through a bright brazing furnace it was a big thing about the size of a small bus.
There were 12off 6inch diameter 5 ft long SS tubes with gas burner in each one
We also had an Exothermic generator next to it that produced an oxygen free atmosphere
One of my tasks was to service the burners and check the 12 burners combustion with an oxygen sensor.
Very good question!!! I have no idea, but that would be cool!
@@VintageEngineRepairs The middle coupling on my power washer wand has split brass fatigue split because I used a rotary brush, the power washer is over 20y old and very heavy, the lightweight plastic same make replacement failed after 10y the motor bolts came loose and stripped the gear drive to the pump.
The most dodgy repair we did to at the Blacksmiths shop was a hydraulic coupling we wire wrapped it in steel wire and brazed it. It held for the customer.
My dad once repaired a fire engine cast iron gearbox that struck a rock and was in 16 pieces, using special nickel stick rods it was welded back together and kept warm on the forge to stop it cracking when it cooled. You turn it over by hand but it did squeak a bit, back in the 1970s a UK recession they could not get a new gearbox.
1930s my grandad made a micrometer, I still have it. I have a picture with him working in front of the Shaper and thread turning lathe ;-) he is shoeing a Shire horse for the local Brewery ;-) He hated the horses leaning on him..... He and my dad were small build I and my GGrandad were big chaps. Great days I learned to weld stick when I was 10y and in 1980s I bought my dad a Hobart TIG plant that was used in the Irish factory that made Delorean cars... One time my dad was on holiday and I had to visit the library to figure out how to repair a missing blade on two out board engines a Yamaha 70 and a (Mercury 70 I reckon this had more magnesium because I nearly set the prop on fire )
I balanced both props on a set of parallel bars using a flap disk.
Those were the days without the WWW
Why ferris metals necessary? We boiled water with an aluminum ring headed via induction in physics class. You can induce a current in any conductor. They even use induced currents to sort condutative metals from non-conductive scrap in recycling.
I’m really not sure, I believe because induction works off magnetism and exciting the iron in the material. It seems to work on non ferrous but is far less effective unless it’s thin tubing.
You should add electricity to price/consumables part for induction heater.
Hey, it’s a fair point, but calculating it, it’s $0.0017 for a 10 second burst.
Thank you for the great video 💪🙏🏻
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind words :)
Seems like it be good for rusty bolts as well? Stuck brake lines?
Yep 👍🏻
No Vevor link for Asia? Southeast Asia specifically?
They didn’t supply one unfortunately :(
Yeah I'm sold
👍🏻👍🏻
Good show. Thank you!
Thank you!
Very interesting, never seen this kind of tool. Great for silver soldering as shown but does it work in same situation with regular brazing rod that needs a bit higher heat?
Hey, I haven’t tried other rods, but for reference these are 45% silver brazing rods and require 1250f which melted very quickly. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I wonder if this would be useful for loosening stuck nuts?
Yep 👍🏻
is that possible to add a probe touching the target to control temperature
I don’t see why not! You just need a thermometer that can withstand the head. That said it won’t give you the internal heat of the piece.
Has anyone tried this tool for heating HVAC copper tubing for heat punp and air conditioning equipment? Since brass tubing works it would be wonderful if you could braze copper tubing.
Unfortunately I don’t have any to try, but if I come across some I’ll update my message here :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs It would be interesting to see if you could just take a 3/4" or 1 inch copper nipple and a coupling and silver braze that. It would be a quick low cost way to check the capability. I'd bet the HVAC guys would love this as opposed to a torch.
Thank you. Excellent topic and demonstration
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I’m a licensed full time professional gunsmith ( >35y) and almost daily do the heat treatment and bending like you demonstrated. Making parts & tools. Silver brazing, which I should do more, I tend to avoid because torch is often difficult to apply. This could be an excellent source of heat for me. Never knew they made them this small & compact
@thatsthewayitgoes9 They really are amazing, you’d find them an absolutely fantastic tool in your instance, localised heat, controllable and won’t burn anything else around the work area! I have used mine almost every day since it arrived for different tasks around the workshop! I’ve added links in the description - see the updated version I have linked to, I think you’ll be even more impressed! Also, buy 2.5mm copper coil and 3mm fibreglass sleeves and make your own coils. It’s even cheaper than the pre formed ones. Also save the copper, anneal it and reuse it when the fibreglass sheathing does eventually fail!
10:02 It should not bend , it should be springy . The issue here is that you partially annealed this part when you brought the first part to red. So it's not hard anymore where it bends.
I’ll have to rewatch the video and look closely, thanks for watching!
@@VintageEngineRepairs 👍
Great tools, very nicely thought out video. I think I saw a man making his own coils
Thanks Al, yes absolutely, just use 2.5mm copper wire and 3mm fiberglsss sleeves
I wonder why it can only heat ferrous metal. The electricity flowing in the heater coil ought to induce current in any conductor. For example, the primary and secondary windings of a transformer are coils of copper wire.
It’s an electromagnet and because the metal being heated needs to be ferrous I believe that’s where brass and other non ferrous metals won’t work. However I’m no expert, just using logic so open to any correction!
Transformers use copper wire, but they still require a ferromagnetic core to transfer the magnetic field efficiently. With induction heating, the workpiece is the ferromagnetic core. Induction heating does technically work with nonferrous metals, but it’s so inefficient (lossy) that it takes enormous amounts of energy to actually heat the workpiece, or conversely, the heating effect is uselessly small with ordinary equipment.
@@tookitogo thanks for sharing! I find it’s great on non ferrous tubing, for example shell casings but useless on non ferrous solid bar
Doesn't need to be magnetic metal to heat up. Eddie current is induced in all metals as far as I know. Mass / shape is more important than anything, me thinks.
It seems to do well on tube in non ferrous, but solid bars it’s almost useless!
@@VintageEngineRepairs interesting! I wonder why. I'm gonna guess that it has to do with dissipation of heat in copper and aluminum. Can you check the front end loading? My guess is that it loads the same and dumps the same heat in but it travels down the bar faster. Though I'm happy to be wrong. Such interesting stuff
Very cool, and interesting video. Thank you.
You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)
quisiera Ser Una pregunta maestro i un consejo usted cree qué la marca echó en motosierras es más mejor que la marca Stihl porque señor
Sorry mate your question doesn’t make sense :( can you try again? Cheers!
Great video. I don't normally like to participate in "witchcraft or black magic" but I am definitely going to get me an induction heater.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I must admit, I went in skeptical, but as soon as I used it for the first time on the cable and it was glowing red in 10 seconds I was giggling like a little kid hahah. Knowing I’m not using gas for minutes at a time to achieve the same thing certainly feels good too lol
???????
?
This is wonderful - thank you
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Since it only works with ferrous metal, I wonder if some sort of steel insert could be used to place into an aluminum engine block then heated up for bearing installation.
Very interesting idea!!
Actually.... I'm not sure why they make this claim- I purchased one several years ago for many things; but primarily for annealing brass (a non ferrous metal) cartridge cases, & it works fantastic!
Yeah I tried brass tubing and works well, but solid brass stock it hardly even warms it up.
@@VintageEngineRepairs - Interesting. Scientifically, I'd like to know how tubing vs solid makes a difference- Thanks!
Impedance seems to be better matched with higher relative resistivity metals such as iron.
They could have made 2 in 1 , not just heater , flip a switch and its electromagnet , making you able to magetize your whatever you need magnetized , or demagnetized , maybe 3in1 , its a same device just difrent type of current and fields , that electronics can do , its in there .
Interesting! I have no idea!
@@VintageEngineRepairs yeah heating is done via high AC current , electromagnet same thing just DC current . Sure it would not be perfect one , would need more coils but due to high current it would do the trick im sure . And its a matter of putting in a diode or 2 , rectifiers . But i guess they want to sell that separately .
hola maestro buendia una pregunta Tengo un problema con una motosierra Stihl MS 260 qué cree mucho se quiebran los resortes del clutch por qué se los pongo nuevos y dilata 23 días y se vuelven a romper qué me tocará revisar allí maestro gracias
Hmm, if they’re breaking, a few things come to mind, are they oem? Is the clutch drum oem? Is the location of where the mount on the clutch shoes worn? Is the clutch oem?
Voy a revisar maestro eso sí no lo he revisado por eso pedí su opinión por lo pronto gracias maestro cualquier cosa lo mantendré informado saludos y cuídese
Hola mi amigo buenas noches Una pregunta maestro tengo una güira desbrozadora que cuando jaló el cordón de arranque se mueve el cabezal qué problema está pasando allí
Clutch springs 👍🏻👍🏻
Gracias mi amigo gracias saludos y cuídese
That cut at 11:30 made me think you were touching a recently red metal!
LOL thankfully not!
Love the curious experiment video
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
I noticed your hand was that a grinder accident or something else but I like the video and definitely think I will look at getting one now
Hey; it was welding - my glove caught on fire! No idea exactly how, but it felt hot but I wanted to finish the last few seconds and I thought it was radiant heat. It was my finger on fire… ouch!
Thanks so much! Great data.
You’re welcome :)
Do they sell or is it easy to find that wire you make the coils out of incase you want or need to make more or larger custom coils?
If what your trying to heat up touches the induction coils will you get shocked?
Since this video I ordered 2.5mm copper wire and insulation to make my own and always have on hand. Yes, if the metal coils touch metal, the tool sparks. Not good lol
Having used propane, mapp, and oxy/acetylene, all of my life, I have always dreamed of having an induction heater to get even better use of heat. The only problem is it has to be a ferrous material for it to work, as it uses a magnetic field to induce the heat, and non ferrous metals do not react to a magnetic field.
It’s very strange, it is useless on solid brass bar, but on brass tube it’s fantastic (glowing red in 10 seconds) however I have only tried brass not Aluminum.
@@VintageEngineRepairs the brass tubing may have had nickle in it, which is magnetic.
Not strictly true. Induction heating creates a very high amperage current in the workpiece. Even pure silver should melt if you have enough magnetic field strength and current. It just gets harder to achieve the correct parameters for melting with lower resistance materials like copper, silver and gold. You can buy an induction furnace designed for that specific job though.
@@evanpnz So the problem is the load the non ferrite material have?
@@jeffreyyoung4104 No, just getting the right balance of inductive coupling, current, and internal resistance of the heated part.
Great Video Tom how would it go cleaning up Stihl Spark arresters?
Hey mate! Great I recon!!
Awesome video. Thanks.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching :)
If a man has tool, then options is endless 🙂
Absolutely, and if you can make the repair rather than paying someone, the tool pays for itself :)
Mummi I want one!
😂😂😂👍🏻
Thanks Tom, great presentation. Did it come with an AU plug.
Thank you! Yes mate :) no adapter needed :)
hola buenas tardes mi amigo Tengo un sopladora de la marca Ryobi se pierde el tiempo el macneto con la bobina y no me arranca que puedo hacer gracias saludos
Sorry I don’t understand the translation I’m afraid :/
Muy bien gracias maestro
an interesting toy to play with.
It’s been so useful I can’t put it down lol
11.32 Great visuals in an excellent video
Thanks for the kind words :)
What a craftsman & master teacher
Thanks for the kind words!
Great idea on the temp range onto the tool - maybe they'll see it and use the idea - I think the induction heater is a function of IGBT transistors being developed and yes - for me getting off the stuck nut on exhaust manifolds is a perfect use
Glad you liked it! Thanks for sharing your experience with them :)
My god, the cost of that MAP kit over there. 63 USD or 95 Australian.
Crazy expensive! We’re overcharged on everything lol
How can price be a draw you included the cost of propane but you didn't include the cost of electric and induction heaters take a lot of electric, cost / con was a draw for the same reason, but i still agree with you conclusions well done in the most part.
Hey mate, it’s a fair point, but when I calculated the cost of a 10 second burst which was basically (within a few seconds) what it took to heat nuts, bolts and shafts up to cherry red with the induction heater it cost $0.0017. It’s so marginal.
You solder by heating the parent metal and letting the parent metal melt the solder, otherwise you get a dry solder joint that is weak and is less conductive electrically.
Yep, that’s what I explained in the video
I think more often, people overheat the joint?
Very interesting tool 👏👏👏😍😍😍
It’s been incredible :)
why hammer the nut parallel to the vise camps instead of orthogonally? duh
Because I didn’t want to risk cracking the cast iron vice.
Very interesting video, I thought about buying one of these tools years ago and now I'm convinced!
Glad you enjoyed it :) I love mine!
Nice tool Tom, it'd come in very handy in situations where open flame wasn't an option.
It amazes me just how fast it heats the objects. 👍
Thanks John, it’s shockingly quick isn’t it. And that rod I brazed a nut to - I made another copper coil with 8 wraps rather than 3, the whole punch was glowing bright red within about 10 seconds. Unreal…
🙂👍🏼 That’s so awesome, seems like it takes forever with a torch on some of the stuff I do.
Yeah agreed mate and gets expensive too.
7:34
Braise it back on. 😃
Hahaha you could!!!
Wow ! on your nut to bolt weld / solder - the lack of oxygen is probably huge - a gas heater may introduce Oxygen ? (somehow) - this heating process seems so clean the joint should be superior - also could that be done with brazing also ?
Interesting! I’m not sure honestly!
Flux displaces oxygen. Hydrogen reduction removes oxygen by hydrogen rich heat.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Thanks for the reply - I know about the flux but I'm wondering if the lack of 'gases' in some way is positive - just intuitively I feel like this magnetic oscillation of the magnetic domains is more 'sterile' in combination of the flux to have less oxygen around the joint
@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st You can remove oxygen from the material using a hydrogen rich flame (hydrogen reduction) as the piece remains heated in an oxygen environment, it will reabsorb oxygen. An inert shielding gas can prevent this by displacing oxygen.
All that said, hydrogen embrittlement is a real thing.
Not sure I answered any questions...
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Fast reply thanks - yeah you answered it in two ways - I used to weld Oxy Accetlyne - and I've had embrittlement issues - this induction method would be great in an invert environment - - I like this tool most for getting frozen nuts in tight places where flames would be dangerous
Cool vid... i'll subscribe if you do enough pushups to tighten a vice down
lol
POMMIE Accent and Aussie Dollars!
Haha us expats, nothing but a problem 😂
I learned so much in this video, thanks.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for sharing, new subscriber from Vic 👍
Sweet! Thanks :) hello from WA haha
what about lifespan of it?
I’m really not sure! I couldn’t find any info on it unfortunately :(
Electric blowtorch?
I’d call that a heat gun 😂
@@VintageEngineRepairs Likely good for other uses such as security destroy hard drive data. Though so would using an induction hob cooker.
To test if it is hard you could have just tried to scratch it with another file.
Absolutely right! :) sometimes it’s good to demonstrate it a bit clearer for the camera though.
able to remove a honda crankshaft bolt?
Never tried :) let me know!!
@@VintageEngineRepairs since you got the tool, can you try that & post on video?