Installing a new old stock modular front wiring harness on an M35A2.
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Tips and figuring on how to install a wiring harness that is not the same as what you have, but works perfectly with a bit of effort. The first episode in a complete multiple episode guide where you watch me work out the quirks and purposes of this replacement harness and explain exactly how to utilize it yourself.
I had some of the same issues when I got my truck. The ends of the wiring harness where it fans out to say headlights, hi/lo headlight switch ect. The insulation was falling off crumbling and so on. At that time I couldn't find a Real military wiring harnesses. (Make sure the wiring harness you get has a NSN#!! There were some sold on line auction site for 200-300$, absolute junk. I cant stress that enough.) With a potential fire hazard, I decided to rewire the truck myself. Cost was about the same as a wiring harness. Labor was triple. And you better be an master at soldering. Packard connectors arnt cheap and the correct crimp tool is very expensive. But the real headache was figuring out what went where and why! Like the horn being negative/ground switching vs positive switching like everything else of that era! That one alone took several hours to figure out. Once replaced, I cut open the old wiring harness the wires were stamped '67 the same year as my truck. Every thing and I mean every single wire was in prefect shape even being that old. Even after checking ohms they were spot on. What I should have done was solider on new wire to just the ends of the harness that needed it. Even if I had to do all of them. I'd still have come out ahead. Benefit of wiring it myself is, I now have multi high amperage circuit breakers and several fuse panels. Both 12VDC and 24VDC. Everything has its own circuit and fused. As well as added theft protection. In the end, I think I made the right choice FOR ME and I have a complete understanding of the entire electrical system on my truck now. BUT beware taking my way, this isn't for the faint of heart! A schematic is an absolute must, before you ever begin, and there are several different ones. Like me, you can do it but understand what your getting into beforehand. DOCUMENT, TAG AND PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING!
Thank you Garrett for this awesome video! Your intelligence amazes me!
Thank you very much for this series of videos. I bought 2 of these harnesses. They are in awesome shape, excellent quality. Got a great price for both of them.
Glad I watched your video !!
Because I just scored the same harness NOS in the bag for $100
I sure appreciate your videos. They're very informative. Thank you.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to film it and uploading it. Mine is a 1963 M37B1 but I found it very helpful to prepare me for my wiring harness project.
Love your channel i learned a lot from watching thank you keep up the good work
I recently did the same thing. I wasn't keen on paying 500 bucks for the 'correct' A2 front harness, and ended up with an A1 Harness, set up just like yours. Think it ended up running me 75 bucks off Ebay... Which I have a problem with, since just about every listing for the A1 Harness lists it as an 'Updated' A2. (Think mines MFG date was in 1990.)
The ends of the harness were almost all frayed and trashed, and had much more electrical tape/duct tape corrections applied to it by the previous owner(s) than I was comfortable with. Many of the Packard connectors were dry rotted out, and hard as nails. I ended up removing the original harness, laying them out side-by-side, and making one match the other.. so far as the circuits were concerned. the run is a little different, as the A1 harness crosses the frame under the radiator for the horn/right front signals. I isolated the 4AWG alternator cable, and just ran that independently back to it's tie-in with the starter.
The A1 harness does not have a connector for the solid state turn signal unit, and I had to remove the original to integrate it into the new one. There was a terminal strip on the original A1s, that the turn singals connected to on post studs.. This wasn't hard to do, just soldered and sleeved all the connections back into the harness itself. Same deal with the column mounted turn signal selector.
Took me about 5-6 hours to make the conversion.
The main battery cables were replaced with 2/0 superflex welding cable, and I've removed/replaced/relocated most of the loop fasteners for a batter run and more clearance to the plumbing on the frame.
So you did exactly what I've done with this harness, step for step. Already all recorded, just not up yet. Glad you got it figured out.
It wasn't too bad, to be honest. Just had to give the old one a spray down with brake cleaner before I spent the evening cross legged on the living room floor watching Netflix reruns of Star Trek.
Do you have a video better explaining the dangers of the hydraulic brake switch and how to make it safer? I'm going to be tackling my wiring harness soon, which is what brought me to this video. But you brought to my attention the dangers of the hydraulic brake switch, which I think I still have, cause my brake switch connector looks the one you describe as the bad one.
Thank you for the help, Scott
I don't have a video specifically about it, but they are known for leaking fluid through them causing loss of brakes, and known for causing fires.
How do you upgrade from old to make it safe. Is it a new switch or the whole airpack needs replacing
@@scottbrutus it's a new switch and a couple of fittings to install it into the air piston supply line on the air pack.
Thanks for the tips, I will do some more research to find out exactly what I need and how to install everything.
Thanks for sharing buddy
What is the part number to that wire harness
Great info. I wondered about this due to $ difference. What about the rear harness? Is the older style rear only missing turn/flashers compared to the newer? I ask because I can get a set of the older style at a great price.
No the old style rear actually has all the wires. The reason the front didn't is because the numbered ends connected to a firewall mounted buss bar with a separate small pigtail harness going from that up to the signal control lever.
To hold the wire on top of that bracket could you drill a hole and use the "P" type clamp to stop wear?
I can. Probably will.
@@tacticalrepair Do you mind if I ask, what size tires are you running on this?
11.00R20 Goodyear G177 radials.
@@tacticalrepair Thank you
The Duece I bought came with an extra wire harness but it seems to not be a M35/44 Harness its rear harness connector is way too big and according to the codes it also has a weapons system connector. No idea what truck it could go too. Is it possible to still use it for the deuce without major modification?
I doubt it.
If my truck doesn’t have a magnetic relay. Where would that circle (magnetic relay) connector go?
If you mean the small 14 gauge wire, it would go directly to the starter solenoid.
The picture quality on the NSN# was not good enuf to read
You may want to put it in the video information
Strange. I can see it fine on my phone here and the TV. I'll take your advice though.
I can read the NsN perfectly on a tiny phone screen.
Tactical Repair I was watching on my iPad
But can see it easy on my iPhone
Strange
I soldered my blinker wires to one another that had the matching number tags and I still have no turn signals after installing this harness
Yes it was a pain when I did mine too. Not all of the wires from both harnesses had matching numbers. I connected the ones that did match and used trial and error for the rest.
I just replaced the entire harness, replaced all the lights, the 3 lever switch, dimmer switch, main switch, and blinker switch. I still have no lights. I have lights then my number 10 wire broke (before new harness) so I spliced it back together and it ran and had lights again then suddenly no lights. That's when I decided to replace the harness. Any ideas on what the issue is?
No lights at all? Not even for a second when you turn the switch on?
@@tacticalrepair absolutely nothing.
Then your three lever switch failed. New doesn't always mean good, especially with military surplus. I've had many new parts bad right out of the box.
Do you have to have the additional harness if you are still running a generator? If so does anyone have a link to it? I wasn't able to find it.
No. It is direct plug in if you still have the generator.
For the barrel plug with the number 5 and 10 wires? I wasn't able to find the existing plug in on my truck to plug into that.
Ok, I need to better understand what you are doing. Have you just replaced your wiring harness with the same one featured in this video?
Yes
Ok. That cannon plug is supposed to plug into the large external voltage regulator that would be mounted on the firewall right above where the plug comes out of the harness. You are still using the old 25 amp generator, not the 60 amp Prestolite alternator, right? If you didn't have the external regulator mounted to the firewall then it was already upgraded.
I have a 74 M35A2 and I am having an issue with the lights. The blackout lights work fine but when i switch on the headlights, the dont do anything except flicker on and off as the switch clicks every few seconds. Any idea on how to resolve this issue?
The clicking is the internal circuit breaker in the switch. This means you have a direct short to ground on your low beam headlight circuit. Inspect your wiring harness carefully starting at the lights on both sides and working back to the firewall.
Tactical Repair thanks, will do!
Tactical Repair do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the harness connector going to the 3 lever switch?
@@joshuapatton3664 not on hand. What have you inspected so far?
Tactical Repair so we cut wire 22 at the connector and headlights came back on along with passenger tail light but no brake light. No driver side markers but hazards pulsate