@@lucasping816 you could buy another jeep for what it'll cost to fix that transmission. Better off buying a used takeout transmission. Should be able to use any AW4 from jeeps between 1987 and 1990 and even some 1991s.
I have a 96 and around 180k it was shifting bad in first and second so I dropped the pan got a solenoid kit and a filter tested the solenoids with ohms and found out that one was bad changed them all out because I was already in there anyway and it runs like a champ now that was about 40k miles ago
@@jeep146 made in China from a certain website that does two day shipping to your front door and apparently my comment gets deleted when I put the name of that company on a comment
Thanks for the valuable info. I have a hard clunk when shifting to drive only. Checked the u joints, fluid level, cleaned the nss, new transmission mount and engine mounts are all fine. Any help.
Sorry but I've just seen this comment. It very well could be because of a bad TPS causing one of your transmission solenoids to give higher line pressure than it should because it thinks you've got throttle applied. It could also be that you have a lot of slack/ slop in your rear end gears from excessive lash, wear, or bad carrier or pinion bearings. Put it in neutral with park brake on on level ground then crawl under and turn the rear shaft by hand. It shouldn't have more than 1/16 to maybe max 1/8 of a turn movement before the gears contact. I've seen plenty that you could get nearly half a turn out of. Most people never change their differential oil and this is the result after over 150,000 miles.
@@tacticalrepair Appreciate your reply bro. I have changed the TPS already and thought it could cause the issue but it didn’t. I have a slack in the rear diff i turned it by hand and found out it was too much of a backlash. This is my goal now to replace the rear diff. Thank you
![Jeep Cherokee: Transfer Case Options & How to Use 4wd Correctly ['84-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H88TFvHmfo0/mqdefault.jpg)
1995 JEEP 2WD.
HOWDY, THANK YOU
1989 Laredo was perfect, but was being stupid and doing burnouts and now every gear is forward 😅
@@lucasping816 you could buy another jeep for what it'll cost to fix that transmission. Better off buying a used takeout transmission. Should be able to use any AW4 from jeeps between 1987 and 1990 and even some 1991s.
What is the part number for the rear output shaft seal for the aw4
I have a 96 and around 180k it was shifting bad in first and second so I dropped the pan got a solenoid kit and a filter tested the solenoids with ohms and found out that one was bad changed them all out because I was already in there anyway and it runs like a champ now that was about 40k miles ago
What brand did you use?
@@jeep146 Amazon I now have 216,000 miles on the Jeep and still working great
@@jeep146 made in China from a certain website that does two day shipping to your front door and apparently my comment gets deleted when I put the name of that company on a comment
Hey man, I have a 01 Cherokee and I'm getting a P0740 code, but the transmission shifts fine. runs great, any advice?
@@420productions-j5o I don't remember what that code is, but probably your throttle position sensor is out of range sometimes.
@@tacticalrepair Thx man, I'll check it out
Thanks for the valuable info. I have a hard clunk when shifting to drive only. Checked the u joints, fluid level, cleaned the nss, new transmission mount and engine mounts are all fine. Any help.
I have a code p0122 which is for the tps that I’m waiting to be shipped soon but i don’t think it is causing that clunk when shifting to Drive.
Any update dude? Same issue on mine when stopped, shifting into Drive is harsh
Sorry but I've just seen this comment. It very well could be because of a bad TPS causing one of your transmission solenoids to give higher line pressure than it should because it thinks you've got throttle applied. It could also be that you have a lot of slack/ slop in your rear end gears from excessive lash, wear, or bad carrier or pinion bearings. Put it in neutral with park brake on on level ground then crawl under and turn the rear shaft by hand. It shouldn't have more than 1/16 to maybe max 1/8 of a turn movement before the gears contact. I've seen plenty that you could get nearly half a turn out of. Most people never change their differential oil and this is the result after over 150,000 miles.
@@tacticalrepair Appreciate your reply bro. I have changed the TPS already and thought it could cause the issue but it didn’t. I have a slack in the rear diff i turned it by hand and found out it was too much of a backlash. This is my goal now to replace the rear diff. Thank you
I have a 92 mines don't want to reverse need some help
If it isn't low on fluid then it's broke. No other reason one would lose reverse unfortunately.
Mine goes forward if I rev up in Park 😢
I GOT A NO BUS CODE..AND TRANSMISSION NOT SHIFTING PROPERLY..WHEN I unplugged the tcm gauges work..and no bus disappeared..
Sounds like the TCM is bad.
@@tacticalrepair Simple swap ? With serial number
@@ari1234.Should be simple plug and play.
worked fine ..then grinds in park n nuetral ...? 2 20 2024
If I rev mine goes forward in Park 😂