There are several reasons why I don't spray all of the door, one is overspray as ceilings are finished, Sometimes I have over 20 doors in one small room, how could you spray them? How would you do the edges? The bottoms? what do you do with the runs? how are you going to keep the enamel off the walls? off the ceilings? Setting a gun up for enamel takes me a few minutes and a few minutes to clean it out so easy to do. There is no easier way to do 20 doors than this method, if it was easier and better to spray them, trust me I would be doing it after thousands of doors.
@@ThePa1nterhowto Ok mate. First of all, get into using water based enamel, most painters are going this way. I’ve got the same sprayer as you, it’s a ripper and sprays Haymes Ultratrim beautiful. A lot of painters are spraying doors finished now. Like one of the other comments said, concertina your doors, attach a bit of timber on top of the doors to each other, then you spray your doors finished before you do your ceilings! I’ve been painting for 26 years and only recently got into spraying. On all new jobs, I will always spray my doors now
@@folkfingerstylefreddy2154 This video is nearly two years old so that's why the video said how to spray oil-based paint, I don't use oil-based much anymore, however, I use the exact same system for my water-based enamel doors, I always finish my ceilings first so I don't have any doors in my way, I started spraying at 15 years old when the tips were not even reversible, so I turned 58 a few days ago so that is 43 years on the gun, many many thousands of doors later. I can spray finish a door, anyone can but you will have quality issues and it will take you longer, by the time it takes you to concertina your doors, I would have finished my doors, I haven't tried Haymes ultratrim yet but I hope to soon as I can get some. Does it run?
@@ThePa1nterhowto not everyone can spray ive seen alot of disasters.and definitely people can't spray water based enamels. That's why they have gone back to oil.. if you know how to work water-based enamel its comes up like glass...what quality problems did you have .. but I'd rather just roll my doors the doors it is faster. but sprayed looks alot better
Hi from NZ Greg, thats a large ceiling that you used the graco on . I have just purchased one for my ceilings and am eagerly waiting its arrival. How does the GX19 perform and what tip did you use. 515? 1 or 2 coats ? Thanks very much
@@ThePa1nterhowto Hi Greg, thanks for asking, I haven't done it yet, just waiting until spring/summer when we can chuck everything out on the deck and have stopped using the fire . Plus its a bit warmer. The fire is the main issue as over the last 16 years when I last painted it the smoke that escapes when putting wood in has stained a lot of it . So just wanting to wait but can't wait at the same time lol. Currently a bit like you with a broken wing though mine is a rotator cuff repair so unable to use left arm for much at all at the moment. Im going to try a FFLP516 but will practice in the garage first as the ceiling in there has never been painted so just plastered gib in there. Hey while I have your attention, I hope you don't mind what is a good stain blocking primer or sealer I can spray everything with as the entire lounge ceiling and walls doors and window reveals need painting. I thought I could spray everything at once then finish each individually. Im going to use Resene Lusta glo semi gloss enamel on the woodwork to match the rest of the house . I was looking at using Zinsser Cover stain, turps clean up, used it before on an old mahogany veneer cabinet and covered the dark colour perfectly, follow by acrylic enamel. Sounds like it would be perfect for what I need to do. Hopefully the plan comes together haha thanks again hope your arm is coming right. Hope your doc doesn't see any of your videos using your dodgy arm :-) Cheers Tony
@@mcr9b6 I had my rotator cuff done 8 years ago so i feel your pain. I have always used a quick dry oil based undercoat for what you have to do,its my go too for the last 30 years so i cant comment on the others.If you have some left you can use it anywhere,paint rocks,steel,anything realy. Just dont tint it.
Hi. seen you use Hyde filling knife a lot (my favorite). What tool bag pouch do you use. A bit dangerous hanging out of my back pocket. Good to see you posting again. Chris
Hi Chris, Yes the Hyde is my favourite tool and one I feel naked without. If you go to bunnings and buy a carpenters chizel pouch and that will keep you from slicing your leg open. Hint with those blades, sharpen them on the concrete as you putty and they can get razor sharp.
@@ThePa1nterhowto Thanks. I still think I owe you a day's work for all your tips. Must admit a lot is what I do. Great to see. Better than people on LPA .
@@christozeb3330 There are good people on LMP but they keep quiet cause if they say anything they get hammered. Its a shame all the older skilled people are not able to feel comfortable there
@@christozeb3330 I've got an opening for a painter for a few days if your interested at wavell heights (north side Brisbane) just working with me to finish a new lowset house here. It's a long drive from home and the sooner I finish it the better. Let me know if your interested?
Nice video. If you get some L brackets and drill them on the top of the doors you can stand them up like an accordion. This is hands down the fastest way to spray doors.
The preparation time using brackets is a pain before and after , and also you cant spray them with finished ceilings and walls because of overspray. Also you cant move them around the room to walls as you finish them. I do my doors my way because I believe it is the quickest and best way ive learnt in my 40 years painting, otherwise, I would be doing them differently,but each to their own.
@@Scarletpimp72 Dream on, if it was better and quicker, we would be using that system. Don't you think we have tried all the other systems over the last 40 years and thousands of doors?
Hi great video I’ve just bought one do I have to use an oil base on the door do they do a water-based paint that I can use on the skirting boards and door .. thanks in advance..
Im refinishing the walls in my house and have scraped the old paint off the drywall in guest bedroom and have applied drywall mud on walls and ceilings going for a L5 / smooth/flat finish. What kind of oil based primer and top coat would you recommend for that or would you not use oil based for that kind of finish? I recently purchased a gallon of oil based primer (Sherwin Williams all purpose oil based primer) and it dried HORRIBLY and had matty spots all over the place. On my 2nd attempt I used Penetrol to help thin the primer hoping it would dry flatter. It did help but still was horrible looking. Am I doing something wrong or is this a bad batch? I was using a natural bristle brush. After seeing this, I'm now getting 2nd thoughts about using oil based primer and top coat on my drywall which I haven't started to paint yet. Your thoughts on this?
I forgot to mention I used that oil based primer on some door jamb boards that I bought. It left high matty spots all over the wood. My first attempt I didnt use Penetrol and the primer was extremely hard to spread and dried extremely matty. My 2nd attempt I added Penetrol to this oil based primer and it helped a lot with spreading the primer with my brush but after it dried there were still matty spots all over the place, just not quite as bad as with no Penetrol.
@@ThePa1nterhowto I've never heard of mineral turps to be honest (rookie painter) but is that a thinner of some kind? If so, that's what Penetrol is. Maybe I didn't add enough?
Mineral turpentine is white spirits, its used to thin down oil based paints, penetrol is an additive to help the paint flow and stick , I wouldn't use penetrol by itself to thin down old paint
What is turps? I’m an American chick and new to spraying…I thought we couldn’t run combustibles thru the machine. I’m stuck. I have an X7 with Kilz original in my machine and it wouldn’t fire (the gun) It’s a pretty new machine but I don’t think it was cleaned properly previously. I’ve changed the tip and extension…hoses. But my gun won’t fire. It initially sprayed, but water came out. I have mineral oil to clean it. But I am stuck.
I don't know your machine but it sounds like the intake ball is stuck, Don't panic, just put the handpiece gun and pickups in water until you have solved the problem, this will stop it from drying out inside. Here is a video that should help you. ruclips.net/video/wuVIeLROnIg/видео.html Turrps is Mineral turpentine or I think white spirits where you are,
I'd be careful of using acetone in an old spraygun , it could dislodge to much paint. Not sure what it would do to the pump either. Better to stick with turps or diesel that has lubrication
If frame and baseboards are painted on oil sami gloss mate pain. First. . you think for paint wall with eggshell is necessary primer with oil base again?? Or just one coat light of off body paint work?? Thanks
@@ThePa1nterhowto .. if I spray semi gloss oil base , I need to do walls you recommend primer oil base before paint wall... hopefully you get a idea or understanding me...
@@spanaway77 If im understanding right,the question is ,after you spray your trim with oil based satin enamel ,do you need to undercoat the overspray areas or can you paint over it with wall paint. Next day when you sand your walls,just scuff up the paint then normal wall paint is fine. Is that correct?
I wouldn't use them in older guns because it will melt the paint in the machine and wreck it, new gun perhaps but not sure if it will wreck some rubbers or become explosive dangerous
@@ThePa1nterhowto understandable mate, I worked in Canada for few years, same kind of houses as what you painting there in Auss, here In Ireland / uk much smaller and not ideal for spraying really. Get big houses but not as many as a new build, miss that type of work your so lucky 🍀, love your videos 👍
Hi Gregory. How you been doing ? I used my smaller Graco ( gxff ) couple of months ago to spray some big radiators with oil eggshell. I don’t like running oil paints through the unit. Horrible to clean the filters, tips in white spirit. Got a few runs got to admit using oil. Never get that when using water based. Perhaps I was going too slow. Thoughts ? Cheers Stevie. BTW 310 FFLP tip
Yes,probably to slow,you should always check for runs before it goes off. Maybe the tip was too big and fine finish tips don't tend to atomise the paint properly. Next time try normal tip
It is safe but doesn't clean oil based paint out properly. Use mineral turps if possible, remembering to earth your gun when spraying oil based , I make sure I use an old metal paint can to earth.
Try and learn as much as you can, get with a good painter and watch and learn. Ask lots of questions and do smaller jobs for yourself on the weekends. A good painter is also a good business man so learn that side of it as well, quoting etc
@@ThePa1nterhowto thankyou Gregory your channel has been good inspiration and your RUclips videos have made a difference thankyou again for the reply and the insight into painting
Yes turpentine,keep all your old turps for the first wash,fresh turps then water. I always keep the ends of my spraygun sealed off with water to prevent the paint inside drying.
@@ThePa1nterhowto This will be my first time spaying with oil primer. What do you mean by keeping the ends of spraygun sealed off with water? I think I follow you up to a point: 1st flush with old turp, 2nd flush with fresh turp, then flush with water then what? If for storage you could store with turp inside the pump and gun correct? Especially if using for oil based next time, but if going to be using acrlyic then flush with water and store with the blue stuff??
I gasped when you turned the painted side of the door over and laid it up against the door underneath. Do you think so differently than we do in the US. Very inefficiently. I would definitely have sprayed the whole door. I screw a 6 inch 2 x 4 blocks to the top in the door.
The wet doors never touch, they are around one inch apart to allow to dry, they are touching on the small corner against the wall, to spray the entire door is not efficient or wont be uniform, you will get overspray on the ceilings and walls,,runs on the areas that get double sprayed and flashing from the tip. We don't think differently, ive just had 40 years of spraying to get the most uniform and economical finish i can for the money spent by the client. I think by the time you screwed your blocks on i would have finished my doors.
Spraying the entire door creates lots more overspray,uses more paint, and all my ceilings are finished. By using the gun to paint the harder bits I am able to have a cleaner environment
I'm not surprised you didn't get it,you sound like a knob. I'm not even going to try and explain it to you,obviously intelligence is not one of your strong points.
what kind of drugs do you do before you start working. you’re definitely on something because you spend all that time setting up the spray gun then you use a roller. you make no sense.
@@ThePa1nterhowto : i’m just commenting on what i saw in the video. lots of work, then a big change in plans. the ceiling could be covered in gold, how do i know, but doing all that prep then not spraying makes people wonder
@@ginoasci2876 Interesting way of thinking but to be honest, I've mostly always done my doors like that, I've been using a spray gun since I was 15, so over 40 years spraying and if I thought it was better to spray the doors, I would .Some houses I do have over 20 doors, undercoats are sprayed on flush and colonial doors but in the past spraying of the top coat in my opinion is detrimental to the finished product and are a slower way to complete a house with the method I use. Love the way your questioning, have an open mind think outside the box
@@ThePa1nterhowto : thinking outside the box would be a hood idea for you since they make HVLP paint guns now so you could use the paint right out of the can without all that mess you have there with old equipment and upgrade yourself to the new technologies and paint walls, trim, as well as doors all with the same HVLP spray gun. no messy thinning of the paint. have you at least tried these new spray guns? you suggested for me to keep an open mind. will you follow your own advice and buy a new HVLP spray gun and give it a good go m a few jobs?
@@ginoasci2876 I have used hvlp guns at dulux demo days a couple times, they are slow, cumbersome, and there is nothing that the hvlp can do an airless can't do with low pressure tips but the hvlp can't do what the airless can. In fact it's a very limited tool that would only slow me down. I paint to make money, I'm not saying it doesn't have its uses but not much good for me.
Why don’t you spray the whole door mate? What’s the use of getting the gun going, if you’re gonna roll the doors? Strange set up mate
There are several reasons why I don't spray all of the door, one is overspray as ceilings are finished, Sometimes I have over 20 doors in one small room, how could you spray them? How would you do the edges? The bottoms? what do you do with the runs? how are you going to keep the enamel off the walls? off the ceilings? Setting a gun up for enamel takes me a few minutes and a few minutes to clean it out so easy to do. There is no easier way to do 20 doors than this method, if it was easier and better to spray them, trust me I would be doing it after thousands of doors.
@@ThePa1nterhowto Ok mate. First of all, get into using water based enamel, most painters are going this way. I’ve got the same sprayer as you, it’s a ripper and sprays Haymes Ultratrim beautiful. A lot of painters are spraying doors finished now. Like one of the other comments said, concertina your doors, attach a bit of timber on top of the doors to each other, then you spray your doors finished before you do your ceilings! I’ve been painting for 26 years and only recently got into spraying. On all new jobs, I will always spray my doors now
@@folkfingerstylefreddy2154 This video is nearly two years old so that's why the video said how to spray oil-based paint, I don't use oil-based much anymore, however, I use the exact same system for my water-based enamel doors, I always finish my ceilings first so I don't have any doors in my way, I started spraying at 15 years old when the tips were not even reversible, so I turned 58 a few days ago so that is 43 years on the gun, many many thousands of doors later. I can spray finish a door, anyone can but you will have quality issues and it will take you longer, by the time it takes you to concertina your doors, I would have finished my doors, I haven't tried Haymes ultratrim yet but I hope to soon as I can get some. Does it run?
@@ThePa1nterhowto not everyone can spray ive seen alot of disasters.and definitely people can't spray water based enamels. That's why they have gone back to oil.. if you know how to work water-based enamel its comes up like glass...what quality problems did you have .. but I'd rather just roll my doors the doors it is faster. but sprayed looks alot better
@@JONO3679 I find it best to incorporate spray and roll together for the doors , best of both worlds.
Woaaahhh!!! amazing video!!!!
Good information, good tunes and you linked the music in the description. Thumbs up.
Thanks mate
nice one beautiful result more power
thanks for sharing with us cool info.
If you and the client are happy with the results who cares ! Great video!
Its for builders, very fussy
Great job mate
Cheers
Thank you. I want to paint my rusty pole barn roof. What products should I use?
How much diesel do you use in say a gallon of thinner.
brill vid man
Thanks mate
Hi from NZ Greg, thats a large ceiling that you used the graco on . I have just purchased one for my ceilings and am eagerly waiting its arrival. How does the GX19 perform and what tip did you use. 515? 1 or 2 coats ? Thanks very much
How did your ceiling go? I'm eager to hear your experiences
@@ThePa1nterhowto Hi Greg, thanks for asking, I haven't done it yet, just waiting until spring/summer when we can chuck everything out on the deck and have stopped using the fire . Plus its a bit warmer.
The fire is the main issue as over the last 16 years when I last painted it the smoke that escapes when putting wood in has stained a lot of it . So just wanting to wait but can't wait at the same time lol.
Currently a bit like you with a broken wing though mine is a rotator cuff repair so unable to use left arm for much at all at the moment. Im going to try a FFLP516 but will practice in the garage first as the ceiling in there has never been painted so just plastered gib in there.
Hey while I have your attention, I hope you don't mind what is a good stain blocking primer or sealer I can spray everything with as the entire lounge ceiling and walls doors and window reveals need painting. I thought I could spray everything at once then finish each individually. Im going to use Resene Lusta glo semi gloss enamel on the woodwork to match the rest of the house . I was looking at using Zinsser Cover stain, turps clean up, used it before on an old mahogany veneer cabinet and covered the dark colour perfectly, follow by acrylic enamel. Sounds like it would be perfect for what I need to do. Hopefully the plan comes together haha thanks again hope your arm is coming right. Hope your doc doesn't see any of your videos using your dodgy arm :-)
Cheers
Tony
@@mcr9b6 I had my rotator cuff done 8 years ago so i feel your pain. I have always used a quick dry oil based undercoat for what you have to do,its my go too for the last 30 years so i cant comment on the others.If you have some left you can use it anywhere,paint rocks,steel,anything realy. Just dont tint it.
Hi. seen you use Hyde filling knife a lot (my favorite). What tool bag pouch do you use. A bit dangerous hanging out of my back pocket. Good to see you posting again. Chris
Hi Chris, Yes the Hyde is my favourite tool and one I feel naked without. If you go to bunnings and buy a carpenters chizel pouch and that will keep you from slicing your leg open. Hint with those blades, sharpen them on the concrete as you putty and they can get razor sharp.
@@ThePa1nterhowto Thanks. I still think I owe you a day's work for all your tips. Must admit a lot is what I do. Great to see. Better than people on LPA .
@@christozeb3330 There are good people on LMP but they keep quiet cause if they say anything they get hammered. Its a shame all the older skilled people are not able to feel comfortable there
@@christozeb3330 I've got an opening for a painter for a few days if your interested at wavell heights (north side Brisbane) just working with me to finish a new lowset house here. It's a long drive from home and the sooner I finish it the better. Let me know if your interested?
Sorry what is "turps"? Is that turpentine?
Nice video. If you get some L brackets and drill them on the top of the doors you can stand them up like an accordion. This is hands down the fastest way to spray doors.
The preparation time using brackets is a pain before and after , and also you cant spray them with finished ceilings and walls because of overspray. Also you cant move them around the room to walls as you finish them. I do my doors my way because I believe it is the quickest and best way ive learnt in my 40 years painting, otherwise, I would be doing them differently,but each to their own.
@@Scarletpimp72 Dream on, if it was better and quicker, we would be using that system. Don't you think we have tried all the other systems over the last 40 years and thousands of doors?
Hi great video I’ve just bought one do I have to use an oil base on the door do they do a water-based paint that I can use on the skirting boards and door .. thanks in advance..
Yes they have a water based,just make sure your preparation is spot on.
Im refinishing the walls in my house and have scraped the old paint off the drywall in guest bedroom and have applied drywall mud on walls and ceilings going for a L5 / smooth/flat finish. What kind of oil based primer and top coat would you recommend for that or would you not use oil based for that kind of finish? I recently purchased a gallon of oil based primer (Sherwin Williams all purpose oil based primer) and it dried HORRIBLY and had matty spots all over the place. On my 2nd attempt I used Penetrol to help thin the primer hoping it would dry flatter. It did help but still was horrible looking. Am I doing something wrong or is this a bad batch? I was using a natural bristle brush. After seeing this, I'm now getting 2nd thoughts about using oil based primer and top coat on my drywall which I haven't started to paint yet. Your thoughts on this?
I forgot to mention I used that oil based primer on some door jamb boards that I bought. It left high matty spots all over the wood. My first attempt I didnt use Penetrol and the primer was extremely hard to spread and dried extremely matty. My 2nd attempt I added Penetrol to this oil based primer and it helped a lot with spreading the primer with my brush but after it dried there were still matty spots all over the place, just not quite as bad as with no Penetrol.
Hi,you should have used water based , if you have only oil based,you will need to thin this down with mineral turps so it can soak in easy.
@@ThePa1nterhowto I've never heard of mineral turps to be honest (rookie painter) but is that a thinner of some kind? If so, that's what Penetrol is. Maybe I didn't add enough?
Mineral turpentine is white spirits, its used to thin down oil based paints, penetrol is an additive to help the paint flow and stick , I wouldn't use penetrol by itself to thin down old paint
Superlative
What is turps? I’m an American chick and new to spraying…I thought we couldn’t run combustibles thru the machine. I’m stuck. I have an X7 with Kilz original in my machine and it wouldn’t fire (the gun) It’s a pretty new machine but I don’t think it was cleaned properly previously. I’ve changed the tip and extension…hoses. But my gun won’t fire. It initially sprayed, but water came out. I have mineral oil to clean it. But I am stuck.
I don't know your machine but it sounds like the intake ball is stuck, Don't panic, just put the handpiece gun and pickups in water until you have solved the problem, this will stop it from drying out inside. Here is a video that should help you. ruclips.net/video/wuVIeLROnIg/видео.html Turrps is Mineral turpentine or I think white spirits where you are,
what is this turps diesel you are thinning with? What else works? Acetone? Will it also work for ext oil primers? Thanks for your educational video!
I'd be careful of using acetone in an old spraygun , it could dislodge to much paint. Not sure what it would do to the pump either. Better to stick with turps or diesel that has lubrication
@@ThePa1nterhowto so prime with diesel fuel before using oil based acrylic to put a coating in the machine?
@@ThePa1nterhowto so prime with diesel fuel before using oil based acrylic to put a coating in the machine?
Quick question you didn't you use the gun to spray the door ... a mean all of the door
I am using the spraygun like a brush,this way I can use any tip and have no runs or overspray
Do you ever spray the architraves or window boxes?
Yes I do but only when circumstances allow, 90% of the time I will do them with a brush, lots more work taping and covering up windows.
@@ThePa1nterhowto i seee... Keep up the good work.
If frame and baseboards are painted on oil sami gloss mate pain. First. . you think for paint wall with eggshell
is necessary primer with oil base again?? Or just one coat light of off body paint work?? Thanks
Im not understanding your question?
@@ThePa1nterhowto .. if I spray semi gloss oil base , I need to do walls you recommend primer oil base before paint wall... hopefully you get a idea or understanding me...
@@spanaway77 If im understanding right,the question is ,after you spray your trim with oil based satin enamel ,do you need to undercoat the overspray areas or can you paint over it with wall paint. Next day when you sand your walls,just scuff up the paint then normal wall paint is fine. Is that correct?
@@ThePa1nterhowto yess!! is correct.. paint over the ,over paint oil base, .. what you recommend me..
@@spanaway77 yes its no problem, next day after a sandpaper
Hey Mate, How are you? Can you please tell me how to sand metal frames? Its new built property but there is dust on frames from plasterer work. Thanks
I would use the foam sanding pads to give them a scuff up, dust down and undercoat
Cheers mate. Really appreciate it.
Can any other solverts like acetone or DMSO be used on these sprayers?
I wouldn't use them in older guns because it will melt the paint in the machine and wreck it, new gun perhaps but not sure if it will wreck some rubbers or become explosive dangerous
Which tip the best for oil based in air less spry gun?
Depends on what you want to spray but I use wagner 211,311,and 411 tips for enamel
good job man why dont you just spray the doors and don't roll ?? is it because the gloss runs alot or what ??
Gloss can run if your not careful but mainly for even coverage and less overspray.
@@ThePa1nterhowto understandable mate, I worked in Canada for few years, same kind of houses as what you painting there in Auss, here In Ireland / uk much smaller and not ideal for spraying really. Get big houses but not as many as a new build, miss that type of work your so lucky 🍀, love your videos 👍
@@Niall-q4r Thanks for the support 👍
Hi Gregory. How you been doing ? I used my smaller Graco ( gxff ) couple of months ago to spray some big radiators with oil eggshell. I don’t like running oil paints through the unit. Horrible to clean the filters, tips in white spirit. Got a few runs got to admit using oil. Never get that when using water based. Perhaps I was going too slow. Thoughts ? Cheers Stevie. BTW 310 FFLP tip
Yes,probably to slow,you should always check for runs before it goes off. Maybe the tip was too big and fine finish tips don't tend to atomise the paint properly. Next time try normal tip
ThePa1nter ok mate. Thought FFLP be the better option as well. But will take your advice and give it a go. Cheers
Is diesel gas for trucks safe to clean the paint machine?
It is safe but doesn't clean oil based paint out properly. Use mineral turps if possible, remembering to earth your gun when spraying oil based , I make sure I use an old metal paint can to earth.
This guy looks a bit like R. Lee Ermey, that’s beside the point though. Good video!
You know I had to look up that bloke didn't you LOL
Well
I’ve never seen it done quite like that
Interesting 🤔
Nice and simple
What ratio to you use for paint and turpentine/solvent?
I personally don't thin the oil based undercoat down, you will get runs
@@ThePa1nterhowto my gravity feed sprayer splatters the paint. Someone recommended 2-1 and that is runny if not careful. I’m going to try 3-1.
If it splatters its low pressure or wrong tip, id start there before thinning and ruin the paint, or you could spray and brush or spray /roll
What's the best way to become a professional painter
Try and learn as much as you can, get with a good painter and watch and learn. Ask lots of questions and do smaller jobs for yourself on the weekends. A good painter is also a good business man so learn that side of it as well, quoting etc
@@ThePa1nterhowto thankyou Gregory your channel has been good inspiration and your RUclips videos have made a difference thankyou again for the reply and the insight into painting
@@ThePa1nterhowto Perfect reply. Just takes time and attention to detail also.
Get yourself a mic bro...it would top off this video nicely :)
Thanks mate, I have a mic but on a building site its very inconvenient
What is turps sorry from the US. I’m actually spraying oil through my pump. For the first time. Thanks for the video. I’m guessing it’s turpentine.
Yes turpentine,keep all your old turps for the first wash,fresh turps then water. I always keep the ends of my spraygun sealed off with water to prevent the paint inside drying.
@@ThePa1nterhowto This will be my first time spaying with oil primer. What do you mean by keeping the ends of spraygun sealed off with water? I think I follow you up to a point: 1st flush with old turp, 2nd flush with fresh turp, then flush with water then what? If for storage you could store with turp inside the pump and gun correct? Especially if using for oil based next time, but if going to be using acrlyic then flush with water and store with the blue stuff??
I gasped when you turned the painted side of the door over and laid it up against the door underneath. Do you think so differently than we do in the US. Very inefficiently. I would definitely have sprayed the whole door. I screw a 6 inch 2 x 4 blocks to the top in the door.
The wet doors never touch, they are around one inch apart to allow to dry, they are touching on the small corner against the wall, to spray the entire door is not efficient or wont be uniform, you will get overspray on the ceilings and walls,,runs on the areas that get double sprayed and flashing from the tip. We don't think differently, ive just had 40 years of spraying to get the most uniform and economical finish i can for the money spent by the client. I think by the time you screwed your blocks on i would have finished my doors.
Why not spray the entire door?
Spraying the entire door creates lots more overspray,uses more paint, and all my ceilings are finished. By using the gun to paint the harder bits I am able to have a cleaner environment
Use diesel fuel? That what you’re saying???
Yes diesel fuel for vehicles
I didn't get it ..... you are rolling brand new doors instead of spraying???? DISLIKED ( yeah yeah, keep talking, you are wrong!!! )
I'm not surprised you didn't get it,you sound like a knob. I'm not even going to try and explain it to you,obviously intelligence is not one of your strong points.
He sprays first and then rolls to avoid over spraying and paint running down the surface
what kind of drugs do you do before you start working. you’re definitely on something because you spend all that time setting up the spray gun then you use a roller.
you make no sense.
Are you suggesting I spray all the doors with the oil based enamel with the ceilings all finished ?
@@ThePa1nterhowto : i’m just commenting on what i saw in the video.
lots of work, then a big change in plans.
the ceiling could be covered in gold, how do i know, but doing all that prep then not spraying makes people wonder
@@ginoasci2876 Interesting way of thinking but to be honest, I've mostly always done my doors like that, I've been using a spray gun since I was 15, so over 40 years spraying and if I thought it was better to spray the doors, I would .Some houses I do have over 20 doors, undercoats are sprayed on flush and colonial doors but in the past spraying of the top coat in my opinion is detrimental to the finished product and are a slower way to complete a house with the method I use. Love the way your questioning, have an open mind think outside the box
@@ThePa1nterhowto : thinking outside the box would be a hood idea for you since they make HVLP paint guns now so you could use the paint right out of the can without all that mess you have there with old equipment and upgrade yourself to the new technologies and paint walls, trim, as well as doors all with the same HVLP spray gun.
no messy thinning of the paint.
have you at least tried these new spray guns?
you suggested for me to keep an open mind. will you follow your own advice and buy a new HVLP spray gun and give it a good go m a few jobs?
@@ginoasci2876 I have used hvlp guns at dulux demo days a couple times, they are slow, cumbersome, and there is nothing that the hvlp can do an airless can't do with low pressure tips but the hvlp can't do what the airless can. In fact it's a very limited tool that would only slow me down. I paint to make money, I'm not saying it doesn't have its uses but not much good for me.
feck spraying oil based
Your just a softy lol
@@ThePa1nterhowto all that cleaning though why not just use a 2-3inch pure bristle with mini wool sleeves
@@jackwardley3626 It only takes a couple minutes to clean the gun after
@@ThePa1nterhowto must take fair bit of turps
@@jackwardley3626 all recycled turps mate so very little