Some bearings just need to be hammerd in to break them apart and use a minitool with the 1" cutting discs to cut the inside of the race outer at 45 degrees from bottom to top . Careful not to go right through as you want to be able to inset a chissel to break the last 5 thou or so and it'll drop out . Plus you can polish up the aluminium with a 1" wire wheel before rebuilding as well as to clean up the bore above the bearing for a squirt of WD before even attempting to draw one out . Iff like this one there's a spacer then cut down the inner as best you can and split it with the chissel to break it apart . Before the advent of minitools i used a Black & Decker electric drill and carbide 1/4" grinding burrs to cut a groove out for the chissel to split , took longer but worked ok . Still have the old orange drills and the little Honda 550w generator in the workshop . Plus using copperslip when replacing the bearings and bolts makes it a lot easier when doing it next time . A smear around the outside edge of the bearing when driven home will set and stop water ingress . Aswell as a 2ft square of 1/2" rubber conveyor belt is best to place the wheel on when working , keeps it nice and protected from gravel rash / dents .Conveyor belt dosn't cut through like a plain rubber mat . And some times rapid light tapping works better than slow heavy blows = i have a SDS drill with rotary stop to use chissels , can pick up chissels cheap at car boot sales and grind them down to different diameters to use as drifts . It's sometimes better to get a bearing moving and keep it moving than bang it and let it stop .
Quick tip, carry a small inverter welder weld a thick washer onto the bearing,punch through with a long drift after heating the hub first .ive done loads like this,also if your left with just the outer shell of a bearing a couple of blobs if weld gives you something to chiesel on.
The slack chain is usually a good sign no maintenance or checks have been carried out by the owner and there will be trouble ahead. Good job of getting that bearing out without damaging the wheel or throwing it over the fence in frustration👍
Bearings are quite easy on some bikes I’ve changed a few and I’m not a trained mechanic but when their seized it makes it very difficult to remove without damaging the hub. I’m interested to know how you’d do it too🤷♂️
@@themobilemotorbikemechanic #1 Instead of trying to pull the bearing out, drive it out from the other side with a drift and a hammer, the energy you are imparting on the system by trying to PULL the bearing out is not even CLOSE to 1/4 the force by going the other way. #2 a dewar of liquid nitrogen or a bag of dry ice is CHEAP and shrinks the bearing to drive them in with a simple aluminum drive set and a hammer similar but better than the amazon kits you used here. #3 a work bench or even a moving blanket so im not on my knees or at least not on the ground like that. #4, some grease, you put those seals in dry and never filled them with grease so that's a BIG fail #5 some sandpaper to CLEAN that trash out of the hub before driving in the bearings. #6 a proper torque wrench and a tape measure or calipers to set the back axle correctly and the nut to a proper torque. #7 (optional) a garage with good tools, not that amazon harbor fright trash that made your job a LOT harder #8 a shop manual.
SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS REMOVAL OF A WHEEL BEARING CAN SOMETIMES TAKE HOURS OF WORK AS YOU PROVED, HOPE CUSTOMER APPRECIATES YOUR WORK AND TIME, ON SIDE OF ROAD ALSO, HELMETS OFF TO YOU, LOL.
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Some bearings just need to be hammerd in to break them apart and use a minitool with the 1" cutting discs to cut the inside of the race outer at 45 degrees from bottom to top . Careful not to go right through as you want to be able to inset a chissel to break the last 5 thou or so and it'll drop out .
Plus you can polish up the aluminium with a 1" wire wheel before rebuilding as well as to clean up the bore above the bearing for a squirt of WD before even attempting to draw one out .
Iff like this one there's a spacer then cut down the inner as best you can and split it with the chissel to break it apart .
Before the advent of minitools i used a Black & Decker electric drill and carbide 1/4" grinding burrs to cut a groove out for the chissel to split , took longer but worked ok .
Still have the old orange drills and the little Honda 550w generator in the workshop .
Plus using copperslip when replacing the bearings and bolts makes it a lot easier when doing it next time .
A smear around the outside edge of the bearing when driven home will set and stop water ingress .
Aswell as a 2ft square of 1/2" rubber conveyor belt is best to place the wheel on when working , keeps it nice and protected from gravel rash / dents .Conveyor belt dosn't cut through like a plain rubber mat .
And some times rapid light tapping works better than slow heavy blows = i have a SDS drill with rotary stop to use chissels , can pick up chissels cheap at car boot sales and grind them down to different diameters to use as drifts . It's sometimes better to get a bearing moving and keep it moving than bang it and let it stop .
Quick tip, carry a small inverter welder weld a thick washer onto the bearing,punch through with a long drift after heating the hub first .ive done loads like this,also if your left with just the outer shell of a bearing a couple of blobs if weld gives you something to chiesel on.
I love doing wheel bearings
Well done Steve, this one looked like a mammoth task!!
Good job Steve, I had a similar issue a few years ago with a 1980 Honda CB250rs, so I had a good idea how much of a pig of a job that was.
Well done that man 😄👍👍👍
The slack chain is usually a good sign no maintenance or checks have been carried out by the owner and there will be trouble ahead. Good job of getting that bearing out without damaging the wheel or throwing it over the fence in frustration👍
It tried my patience but we managed to sort it out
Omg...that thin rear disc banging on the tarmac !! Come on man.
Nope. Look again and you’ll see blocks of wood supporting the wheel rim
Feel you're pain, had a "mare" doing fork seals this week, 1st one went great, second couldn't separate the tubes, fork seal from hell... ... ...
Sorry to hear that. Been there 😏
Fairly easy job make very difficult by not having the right tools.
What tools would you have used?
Bearings are quite easy on some bikes I’ve changed a few and I’m not a trained mechanic but when their seized it makes it very difficult to remove without damaging the hub. I’m interested to know how you’d do it too🤷♂️
@@themobilemotorbikemechanic
#1 Instead of trying to pull the bearing out, drive it out from the other side with a drift and a hammer, the energy you are imparting on the system by trying to PULL the bearing out is not even CLOSE to 1/4 the force by going the other way.
#2 a dewar of liquid nitrogen or a bag of dry ice is CHEAP and shrinks the bearing to drive them in with a simple aluminum drive set and a hammer similar but better than the amazon kits you used here.
#3 a work bench or even a moving blanket so im not on my knees or at least not on the ground like that.
#4, some grease, you put those seals in dry and never filled them with grease so that's a BIG fail
#5 some sandpaper to CLEAN that trash out of the hub before driving in the bearings.
#6 a proper torque wrench and a tape measure or calipers to set the back axle correctly and the nut to a proper torque.
#7 (optional) a garage with good tools, not that amazon harbor fright trash that made your job a LOT harder
#8 a shop manual.
@@Jestersson I just answered that in a comment here. but TLDR: better tools, better methods, and a torque wrench
@@timothywhieldon1971 You sound like a master mechanic. I’m sure Steve will take all that knowledge on board.
How do you keep all the right parts in your van?
We don’t. We only keep the relevant parts for the jobs we are going to.
SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS REMOVAL OF A WHEEL BEARING CAN SOMETIMES TAKE HOURS OF WORK AS YOU PROVED, HOPE CUSTOMER APPRECIATES YOUR WORK AND TIME, ON SIDE OF ROAD ALSO, HELMETS OFF TO YOU, LOL.
I did my CBT on one of those, it was a piece of junk!
Are you accounting for slightly more slack as you're adjusting the chain with the rear wheel off the ground or should that make no difference?
Yes which is why we adjust to around 25-30mm of play on this bike.
👍
"Wheel bearing, yeah no problem" 😱😮☹😭😧😫😤
It’s the little jobs that can often become the most challenging
You have your torch too close to the hub, the yellow tip of the flame is the hotest, blue part is the coolest. Sorry to poke my noise in.