These arms weren't as effective as I hoped they'd be, so I recommend camber plates (Millway Street for mostly street/daily cars, and Vorshlag for mostly weekend/track cars).
Great video, and timely for me I might add as I am considering this upgrade for my F80! Incidentally, my F80 is lowered on the MP HAS kit and I have -2.5 deg - with more to go if I wanted using the GC camber plates I have installed. Would you still recommend this modification if camber plates are already installed?
Yes I would recommend this even if you have camber plates for the wider front track width. Just keep in mind the exposed ball joints though for the types of driving you'll be doing.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks! My F80 would not see any corrosive snow/salt conditions, just occasional rain on the street (or track). That said, what kind of maintenance can you expect regarding the monoballs (and the rest of the arms), based on nominal driving conditions (mostly dry with some rain on the street & track)?
@@jmciver767 The thing you want to avoid is dirt/grime/contamination (including water) getting in between the monoball/race where it'll grind away at those two pieces or a liner if there is one. The only thing you can really do is take a brush and try and brush out any build up at the entry to that interface. Not the easiest thing to do.
@@FaRKle0079 Such is life with race parts on a street car I guess - not necessarily a deal breaker for me though. Out of curiosity, based on your comments regarding dirt and grime, what is your anticipated maintenance schedule with these parts installed on your M2? Will your M2 see much rain (on the street), other than the occasional rain at a track day? Or will the M2 only be your dry weather car?
@@jmciver767 I honestly don't have any good data how long these ball joints should last. One other user in Europe mentioned his lasted about 30k miles. For me personally, the M2 is a purely leisure vehicle so it's not going to see rain unless that happens on the way/at an event. I'm not confident enough in unsealed ball joints to put them on my wagon which sees rain, and offroad conditions.
I tried using this arm without camber plates to see if it could get enough camber. It looks like you'll still want camber plates to bump things up to around the -3deg mark though. I'll be adding camber plates in conjunction with these arms later.
@@michaellegere4823 The SPL arm PN is SPL FLCA F8X. SPL told me they've seen -4deg, but they wouldn't tell me how lowered that car was. I think if lowered a bit you could expect around -2.7deg.
Making the LCA longer does push the wheel further forward in the wheel well increasing the caster. At max length your caster will probably be about 7.5deg or a bit under.
@@FaRKle0079 yes Sir, but when Im looking for control arm, there are 2 kind, one is the lower control arm , another one is lower control arm rearward, they are both for front wheel, thats why i am confused.
@@lallen968 There are 3 arms for the front wheels 1) tension strut/thrust arm in the front upper position, 2) tie rod in the front lower position, and 3) wishbone/lower control arm in the front lower position. This SPL arm is the wishbone/lower control arm. Please consult with your vendor if it isn't clear.
@@lallen968 For the wishbone/LCA you don't need to have the suspension loaded when torquing the connections since both ends have ball joints and not bushings.
Awesome video production skills bro
Great stuff man, thank you for sharing!
Do you feel any differences with the SPL arm installed?
Thanks for making your videos. Would you recommend this over the Vorshlag camber plates for adding camber?
These arms weren't as effective as I hoped they'd be, so I recommend camber plates (Millway Street for mostly street/daily cars, and Vorshlag for mostly weekend/track cars).
Great video, and timely for me I might add as I am considering this upgrade for my F80! Incidentally, my F80 is lowered on the MP HAS kit and I have -2.5 deg - with more to go if I wanted using the GC camber plates I have installed. Would you still recommend this modification if camber plates are already installed?
Yes I would recommend this even if you have camber plates for the wider front track width. Just keep in mind the exposed ball joints though for the types of driving you'll be doing.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks! My F80 would not see any corrosive snow/salt conditions, just occasional rain on the street (or track). That said, what kind of maintenance can you expect regarding the monoballs (and the rest of the arms), based on nominal driving conditions (mostly dry with some rain on the street & track)?
@@jmciver767 The thing you want to avoid is dirt/grime/contamination (including water) getting in between the monoball/race where it'll grind away at those two pieces or a liner if there is one. The only thing you can really do is take a brush and try and brush out any build up at the entry to that interface. Not the easiest thing to do.
@@FaRKle0079 Such is life with race parts on a street car I guess - not necessarily a deal breaker for me though. Out of curiosity, based on your comments regarding dirt and grime, what is your anticipated maintenance schedule with these parts installed on your M2? Will your M2 see much rain (on the street), other than the occasional rain at a track day? Or will the M2 only be your dry weather car?
@@jmciver767 I honestly don't have any good data how long these ball joints should last. One other user in Europe mentioned his lasted about 30k miles.
For me personally, the M2 is a purely leisure vehicle so it's not going to see rain unless that happens on the way/at an event. I'm not confident enough in unsealed ball joints to put them on my wagon which sees rain, and offroad conditions.
very nice video on the installed. are you giving away your old wishbone?
I'm keeping my stock parts in case I need them later.
Is this arm instead of camber plates or do you also have those installed?
I tried using this arm without camber plates to see if it could get enough camber. It looks like you'll still want camber plates to bump things up to around the -3deg mark though. I'll be adding camber plates in conjunction with these arms later.
Don't you need to reclock that main bolt to the subframe?
Nope, because that joint on the arm is a ball joint and not a rubber bushing. Ball joints don't have a set position they try to spring back to.
Who's rotors are you using on your car?
Those are the AP Racing rotors. I have the full BBK.
@@FaRKle0079 Nice, you have P/N#
Vendors?. How much more negative camber do you expect if you lower the front end?
@@michaellegere4823 The SPL arm PN is
SPL FLCA F8X. SPL told me they've seen -4deg, but they wouldn't tell me how lowered that car was. I think if lowered a bit you could expect around -2.7deg.
Caster is 7 °30？ thank you
Making the LCA longer does push the wheel further forward in the wheel well increasing the caster. At max length your caster will probably be about 7.5deg or a bit under.
hello Sir, is this the rearward lower controll arm? I have a f80 m3, are they the same?
This arm is for the front wheel, and is the lower rear arm. This arm works for the F80 M3.
@@FaRKle0079 yes Sir, but when Im looking for control arm, there are 2 kind, one is the lower control arm , another one is lower control arm rearward, they are both for front wheel, thats why i am confused.
@@lallen968 There are 3 arms for the front wheels 1) tension strut/thrust arm in the front upper position, 2) tie rod in the front lower position, and 3) wishbone/lower control arm in the front lower position. This SPL arm is the wishbone/lower control arm. Please consult with your vendor if it isn't clear.
@@FaRKle0079 Thank you, another question, do you need to jack up the wheel before you torque it? so the weight of car can put on suspension?
@@lallen968 For the wishbone/LCA you don't need to have the suspension loaded when torquing the connections since both ends have ball joints and not bushings.
Umm did he say “undo” 😂