I am a little sad that I found you AFTER I got my GC plates and Ohlin's installed on my N55M2. your content as been so detailed and data oriented. crossing my fingers hoping I won't have to get my suspension taken apart again. Keep up the good work! excited to see you do more on your car.
Also 4:33 the previous owner may have lost the original washer(s), because the washers that come with the new plate are indeed the appropriate thickness. Either that or this was a previous issue that has since been resolved.
I've had like 4-5 sets of these camber plates, and I believe this was a previous issue that was resolved. Other GC plates I've had had shorter screws with the same washers.
Great video! Really appreciate the detail of your content. I also picked up a set of used GC camber plates but I’ve been considering the BMW camber correction hubs instead. I would be very interested in your thoughts on the - 30 min camber correction hubs vs camber plates.
Great content as always! seems you're doing all the same mods as me and it's super convenient. Just a question where did you get your torque specs from? most of the torque values are the same or similar to mine except for the 19mm strut spindle nut I have 25 ft lbs instead of 52 ft lbs and the 13 mm carbon fiber brace bolts I have 12 ft lbs instead of 21 ft lbs. Sure it's not a big deal but I just wanna make sure I don't have completely messed up torque specs.
I got the torque values from BMW's own procedures. If your strut nuts are tight and not making any noise might as well leave them, but go ahead and tighten the brace a bit more. 12ft-lbs isn't very much.
My 22mm top mount bolt keeps backing out: also purchased a used set of Camber Plates. 2nd time it's happened since installed on the car for 2 months now. Both times on the passenger side top mount. Any thoughts and suggestions? PS - where can I buy a countersink tool. Thank you in advance!
Kept happening to me too. Both sides. Became enough of a problem I went back to stock. Now my stock strut mounts are bad so considering putting these back on or springing for new vorchslog.
You can get WELL more than you need. Easily over 4deg. I was barely using ANY of the camber plate travel (like 2-3mm) to get to -3.2deg with the LCA maxed out.
@@usernamealreadytaken770 Nope, they're stock from Ohlins. FCM helped me dyno them because Shaikh is a fantastic person and big believer in educating the community.
Another great video! Are those bent plates made of steel or aluminum? A magnet would provide a quick check. For that design they should be made of steel. Or perhaps they are the incorrect grade or thickness of steel for the application. People sometimes design with stainless steel for the anti-corrosion properties. But often SS isn’t strong enough and a stronger steel with a zinc plating would be better. This happens with SS bolts a lot. They shear off, where a zinc plated steel bolt would have been a better choice. Their tech support should have a torque spec. It’s not rocket science by their engineers. Anyone can look it up online. Torque specs are determined by the characteristics of the bolt, not the manufacturer using it. The torque spec can be looked up by knowing the markings on the bolt head which tells the strength of steel used, and the diameter of the bolt whether it’s M6, M8, M10, etc. There’s actually a helpful fastener/torque table in the Bentley BMW manual. I’ll try to post a photo here if it will let me. Excellent video as usual!
The plates/ring aren't aluminum (too heavy), and are chrome plated. They're a non-magnetic metal, so they could be a type of stainless. Either way they're too weak! Haha.
@@FaRKle0079 Sounds like a basic engineering mistake. Engineer may have chosen stainless for anticorrosion properties, but then chose incorrect grade of SS or incorrect thickness (if they had a choice of thickness with the design of the piece). Crazy thing is that a stronger piece of steel material is about 1/3 of the price of stainless. Steel requires an added zinc plating step but cost is minimal compared to material cost. Right now a 4’x8’ sheet of 11gauge SS can be >$1,000.
I am a little sad that I found you AFTER I got my GC plates and Ohlin's installed on my N55M2. your content as been so detailed and data oriented. crossing my fingers hoping I won't have to get my suspension taken apart again. Keep up the good work! excited to see you do more on your car.
Also 4:33 the previous owner may have lost the original washer(s), because the washers that come with the new plate are indeed the appropriate thickness. Either that or this was a previous issue that has since been resolved.
I've had like 4-5 sets of these camber plates, and I believe this was a previous issue that was resolved. Other GC plates I've had had shorter screws with the same washers.
damn the beginning of this video got me not wanting to buy GC now lol i’m going vorshlang lol
1:19 mine looks like this brand new. I could be wrong but I’m wondering if it is shipped like that by design for some functional reason?
Jeez. It's like 5 different engineers designed each component of the this GC camber plate in secret.
Thank you!
Great video! Really appreciate the detail of your content. I also picked up a set of used GC camber plates but I’ve been considering the BMW camber correction hubs instead. I would be very interested in your thoughts on the - 30 min camber correction hubs vs camber plates.
If the extra -0.5deg the camber correction hubs give you is enough for what you want I'd go that route since it'll be quieter than GC plates.
Great content as always! seems you're doing all the same mods as me and it's super convenient. Just a question where did you get your torque specs from? most of the torque values are the same or similar to mine except for the 19mm strut spindle nut I have 25 ft lbs instead of 52 ft lbs and the 13 mm carbon fiber brace bolts I have 12 ft lbs instead of 21 ft lbs. Sure it's not a big deal but I just wanna make sure I don't have completely messed up torque specs.
I got the torque values from BMW's own procedures. If your strut nuts are tight and not making any noise might as well leave them, but go ahead and tighten the brace a bit more. 12ft-lbs isn't very much.
@@FaRKle0079 That number definitely seemed low to me (found my values on the forums). Thanks again man, keep up the good work.
My 22mm top mount bolt keeps backing out: also purchased a used set of Camber Plates. 2nd time it's happened since installed on the car for 2 months now. Both times on the passenger side top mount. Any thoughts and suggestions? PS - where can I buy a countersink tool. Thank you in advance!
I'd try impacting it a bit to get it tighter. What do you need the counter sink tool for?
Kept happening to me too. Both sides. Became enough of a problem I went back to stock. Now my stock strut mounts are bad so considering putting these back on or springing for new vorchslog.
Great video! Do you know how much camber you can get by using both camber plates and SPL lower control arms?
You can get WELL more than you need. Easily over 4deg. I was barely using ANY of the camber plate travel (like 2-3mm) to get to -3.2deg with the LCA maxed out.
forgot to mention to undo the leaving sensor to, it’s only on one side but still
Did you go back to stock suspension from the Ohlins?
Or were the Ohlins suspension review video you did for someone else’s M2?
I still haven't put them on my car yet, haha. They'll make it on before the end of the year though.
@@FaRKle0079 Oh. Did you get them re-valved by Fat Cat Motorsports or something because you said you had them dyno’d by them?
@@usernamealreadytaken770 Nope, they're stock from Ohlins. FCM helped me dyno them because Shaikh is a fantastic person and big believer in educating the community.
Another great video!
Are those bent plates made of steel or aluminum? A magnet would provide a quick check. For that design they should be made of steel. Or perhaps they are the incorrect grade or thickness of steel for the application. People sometimes design with stainless steel for the anti-corrosion properties. But often SS isn’t strong enough and a stronger steel with a zinc plating would be better. This happens with SS bolts a lot. They shear off, where a zinc plated steel bolt would have been a better choice.
Their tech support should have a torque spec. It’s not rocket science by their engineers. Anyone can look it up online. Torque specs are determined by the characteristics of the bolt, not the manufacturer using it. The torque spec can be looked up by knowing the markings on the bolt head which tells the strength of steel used, and the diameter of the bolt whether it’s M6, M8, M10, etc. There’s actually a helpful fastener/torque table in the Bentley BMW manual. I’ll try to post a photo here if it will let me.
Excellent video as usual!
The plates/ring aren't aluminum (too heavy), and are chrome plated. They're a non-magnetic metal, so they could be a type of stainless. Either way they're too weak! Haha.
@@FaRKle0079
Sounds like a basic engineering mistake. Engineer may have chosen stainless for anticorrosion properties, but then chose incorrect grade of SS or incorrect thickness (if they had a choice of thickness with the design of the piece).
Crazy thing is that a stronger piece of steel material is about 1/3 of the price of stainless. Steel requires an added zinc plating step but cost is minimal compared to material cost.
Right now a 4’x8’ sheet of 11gauge SS can be >$1,000.
Conclusion: don't get Ground Control plates. (It's ok, I got my plates from overseas)
😁
T-shirt not good🤣