BMW Adjustable Rear Toe Arm DIY (M2, M3, & M4)
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- *Timestamps in Description!*
Replacing stock toe arms with their eccentric adjustment and rubber bushings that can deflect is a popular mod to increase the stability and alignment adjustability of the F8x M2/M3/M4. In this video we'll go through that process, which is pretty simple for an M3/M4, and unfortunately a lot more involved on the M2.
Index:
-0:00 Intro
-0:27 Turner vs SPL Toe Arm Comparison
-3:51 M3/4 vs M2 Job Overview
-4:46 Car Up, Wheels Off (M3/4 jump to 9:35)
-5:13 M2 Rear Panels/Bracing Removal
-6:45 M2 Exhaust Lowering
-7:17 M2 Subframe Lowering
-9:35 Toe Arm Swap Prep
-10:26 Toe Arm Removal/Replacement
-13:20 M2 Subframe Installation (M3/4 jump to 19:21)
-14:11 M2 Exhaust Installation
-15:07 M2 Damper Installation
-16:26 M2 Rear Panels/Bracing Installation
-19:21 Wheels On, Car Down Авто/Мото
Just did this job. Very helpful and clear video. Thanks!
Also, tip for others. Don't put the impact on the bolt end (bottom side) to remove the outer toe arm bolt and nut. There is a chance you will spin the bolt inside the eccentric washer, and bind them. This will leave you unable to remove it without a lot swearing and hammering (and destroying the washer and bolt). I should have known this, but had a brain fart.
Damn bro you're Soo smart and I loved how much you went into detail. Very informative video. Something no you tuber or even the forums have ever talked about. Thank you soo much for this video. I really do appreciate. I always wondered what the difference between the Turner and SPL was but you explained it. Strength and design. Please don't stop making videos like These. Very intellectual and helpful
Thanks for the kind words!
Great video as always. For anyone else that will be doing this install there a few corners that can be cut to save time which I did during my install. Don’t need to drop the aluminium support braces in full. Backout the T60 and the other two chassis 16mm ones by 10mm. Do this on both sides. Don’t need to unclip any lines but you do need to unplug the exhaust flaps. Don’t remove centre exhaust brace just remove the four 6mm hex bolts for the braces. Remove the rear two exhaust brackets. No other exhaust brackets need to be removed as it is supported by the sub frame anyway. You only need to drop the subframe 10mm for the bolt to clear. Essentially I left all the bolts still bolted to the car and backed them out 10mm. This provided enough space to remove and retorque as required. Used a swivel joint for the partially obstructed 16mm. I think the part about removing the damper in the vid is editing oversight spliced in from another vid. Anyway hope this saves time for someone else, your milage may vary. Thanks for the vid!!
I haven't even watched this and I know it's going to be awesome. Been considering this for a while now, thanks for doing a video!
Even though it's a lot of work, the extra adjustability you get to optimize your alignment is worth it!
I won't attempt to do this but also watched the whole video, as per usual very good and informative. What a pain in the ass to have to drop the whole sub frame but very cool to see how its done
Nice job. You should consider using a wheel hanger. I find they make it easier to dismount and mount wheels.
Idk y I watched this. Good video as always
You secretly miss your M2C! 🤣
@@FaRKle0079 u r not wrong tbh
Keep the vids coming! Heading out to weathertech this Wednesday NCRC?
I wish! I'll be at Sonoma 10/16 with Corsa Club.
Early on you mention various options on the Turner product and that stainless steel was an extra cost option. Raw stainless steel is more costly and it is valued for its corrosion resistance.
I just wanted to point out that many people make the incorrect assumption that stainless is stronger as well.
Depending on grade often a steel piece or a steel fastener is stronger than the same thing made from stainless. The steel piece is simply zinc plated for corrosion resistance. Often zinc plated steel makes a stronger piece that stainless steel.
Absolutely correct! Turner mentions the corrosion resistance difference in their product description. There is a bit of difference in the ball alloy too (which also mainly comes down to corrosion resistance).
Nickel-Plated Rod End option:
Good corrosion resistance
Alloy steel body, heat treated, Electroless nickel plated
Hard chrome plated 52100 steel ball
Stainless Steel Rod End option:
Best corrosion resistance
17-4 heat-treated stainless steel body
400 Series heat treated ball
Is the toe arm bolt clearance an issue with both the base M2 and M2 Comp?
So the subframe doesn't need to be lowered on a F80?
Use those quick jacks with the label towards the engine side. Saw you turned them… 😂
In general, you're right that the engine side will be significantly heavier. For these BMWs they have pretty close to a 50/50 weight distribution (the one in the video is 52/48) so it doesn't really matter for them 🙂
Very informative and awesome video as usual! Is it ok if I reuse the rear subframe bolts and how do I guarantee that the subframe will go back nice and square as I raise it back up? Thanks again!
The unibody has indexing nubs that align the subframe when they're mated together, so no real issue realigning them. I've reused the subframe bolts, but you kind of have to watch that the heads of them aren't rounding off.
Thanks for another informative video! Quick question: my F80 is a daily driver, and while I've found sealed monoballs for the front thrust arms, I can't seem to find them for the rear toe arm. I was wondering if you had found anything similar for them?!
Unfortunately I don't think anybody makes sealed/booted monoballs for the rear. But FK Rod Ends makes boots that you can retrofit yourself.
You make great videos. Off topic, would you know if KW V3s taken off of my F82 M4 would fit an M2 comp?
Yup they'll fit. All F8x M2/3/4 suspensions fit each other.
Oh my god. This is great to know. Now all I need is to buy an M2 👍.
U need that fall line shim kit
I actually have one (the Tracktek version that came out first), just haven't installed it. I haven't seen my witness marks showing signs of slipping on the camber adjustment though.
Are you selling the turner arms ?
I kept them and moved them to the front lower arm position (BMW uses the same arm in two locations).
@@FaRKle0079 ok, great, I learned something new today…tks
What is the best way to go regarding off the shelf suspension on the F87 ? I’m in the UK. Standard seems poorly optimised