BMW M2/M3/M4 Thrust Arm and Monoball Change
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- A really popular upgrade for the M2/3/4 is replacing the stock rubber tension strut arm bushing with monoballs. This provides better steering feel and feedback, and also improves steering response. To do that though, you'll need to remove and replace the tension strut arms. Many vendors offer complete arm assembly replacements with the new monoballs installed since having the press and other tools required to just change the bushing isn't very common. For myself, I used SPL's monoball (SPL CRB E9X), which also has a caster adjustment feature (only SPL and KMAC have this to my knowledge).
Index:
0:00 Intro
0:58 Underbody Panels Removal
3:14 Removing Tension Strut Arm
5:29 Arm and Bushing Overview
7:59 Monoball Specifics/Nuances
14:02 Tension Strut Arm Placement
15:16 Subframe Bolt Fastening
17:33 Knuckle Nut Fastening
18:18 Underbody Panels Installation
19:21 Monoball Impressions/Conclusion 
Авто/Мото
Okay got around to it, just placed the order for these Monoball joints, hyped af
- something also good to mention as well that SPL just mentioned to me over the phone is make sure your replacing all the bolt(s) you take out with new ones because the way they are torqued down the threads will be stretched on the old bolts, you do not want to reuse them if you dont have too
Just did this but went with synchro design works. What made this job a little easier was to remove the fender lining and suspending the cooler with zip ties high in the wheel well to gain easy access to the bolt. Hope this helps
Really appreciate your vids man thanks
So sounds like its just best to get a new lock bolt. My mechanic reused the bolts when installing my V3 and the coilovers came loose while driving. Locktite seemed to do the trick though.
Hi FaRKle,
In your reply to la.m240i you mention to swap the ‘spacers’ over to the f3x ones to run on the regular base platform. This would imply to me that the diameter of both TS (F8x+F3x) bushing is exactly the same?
So,in that case if I were to do the F8x lower arm swap (F20 m140i) I could press out the F8x solid rubber bushing,chassis side in the tension strut and replace with a eccentric bushing like this for caster adjustment,as long as the appropriate bushing supplier also cater for the F20-F30 market. Then ask the supplier/manufacture to supply the TS spacers in F20 form instead of F8x?
Also is it possible for you to let me know the exact diameter of the Kmac pressing cups,please pretty please??
Hope to hear back from you,
Many thanks,
Ant.
I am planning on this upgrade.
Well worth it!
Nice video! Do you notice much more NVH other than through the wheel?
There's a subtle NVH increase with respect to noise. The steering wheel can have a good bit more vibration and harshness over sharp features, but that's the tradeoff for increased steering feel and feedback from the wheels.
Another great vid. Can I get the p/n# for your break rotors or BBK kit? Luv the two piece j hook rotors.
Also, do you feel these mono balls will help with Autocross?
You can find the F/R BBKs on this page: www.essexparts.com/my-vehicle/2019/BMW/M2%20Competition/All
I have the 9668 front kit.
I would expect monoballs to help in AutoX since there are lots of fast wheel movements and steering response is important.
Hi i need some help, i have an F3x 340i RWD, ive retrofitted the M3 LCA & TA. Currently running 437m wheels which i know are a little large for the Fx platform but trying to find a way to make it all work. Getting slight scrubbing on the front arch liner due to caster, if i buy aftermarket caster adjustable bushes for the M3 LCA kit will i be able to reduce the caster to re centralise my wheels?
You'd need an eccentric tension strut/thrust arm bushing/bearing. It should allow you to reduce the caster by making the arm longer, but I'm not sure how much you need/if it'll be enough.
Late to the party here... not sure you should really reuse that bolt... the reason that the new bolts require an extra 90 degrees is because they're TTY bolts and are effectively stretched to provide extra torque... admittedly SPL have addressed this by suggesting you use a higher torque but for the cost of a new bolt, I'd probably just replace it so I could sleep easier😂
Hi, I am going to do this on an M235i. I fit the M4 TS with spacers, is this plug and play with the spacers?
Yes, you'll need to use the same spacers you used with the M4 TS arms, but aside from that it should be plug and play (after pressing in the monoball assembly into the arm).
@@FaRKle0079 thanks for commenting on my post at 2 addicts!
Little confusing. I see SPL already offers "Tension strut" Arms for the front could you just buy those and install them right where this arm goes or is the only solution for this arm to replace its rubber bushing w/ the monoball for $350 SPL offers and then reinstall? Cause TBH I see the front tension strut arms are only $550 where as the monoball bearings you would have to press in is $350. I don't mind spending the extra $200 to have a full SPL arm rather than having to press something in but idk if i can do that, can i?
This video compares the two solutions directly! ruclips.net/video/l4f33UEi1A8/видео.html
@@FaRKle0079 Will definitely be going with the press in Monoball. That’s wild the arm snapped. Makes me wonder if any of there other arms would snap
Another great video on upgrading the F8x chassis with track/street performance parts beyond a typical lowering springs video. This is another one on my short list for my F80. Out of curiosity, what are your additional plans regarding these types of suspension upgrades for your M2? I know SPL has a few other F8x adjustable suspension solutions for the front and rear and was wondering your take on them for a street/track car such as your M2.
I'm pretty much done with modifying the front arms. I have my LCA track width/camber adjustment, and tension strut caster adjustment now. I don't plan on lowering much in the future to warrant different tie rod ends.
In the rear I have some new toe arms with eccentric lock outs, and a fixed (non-eccentric) camber adjustment that I'll eventually put in. The toe arms will be a much bigger job than I originally thought since the sub-frame has to be dropped a bit. There's not enough clearance to do them without that unlike on the F2x/F3x.
Another related question…. Would you recommend going with new arms for this mod on higher mileage cars? My F80 has 50k+ miles on it, and while I have no reason to think the arms are bent with no obvious play/issues with the ball joint end of the arm, the ball joint end still has 50k+ miles on it. Thoughts?
@@jmciver767 If you consider it relatively easy to press in/out monoballs then I'd just stick with your current arms. You're right that the ball joints on them should last a long while. If it's not very easy for you to press monoballs in/out, then I'd just do a whole assembly replacement.
I assume you need an alignment after this?
If you replace with a non-caster adjustable monoball or OE bushing you don't really need an alignment after.
Can I replace both my upper and lower control arms with F80/F82 upper and lower control arms on an F32?
You don't want to use F3x arms on F8x. They're different designs/dimensions.
@@FaRKle0079 on the contrary, i want to use F8x arms on the F3x
@@michaeldschutte You can if RWD, but it's not a straight drop in. A better solution would be to get F3x arms with monoballs (like VAC).
T/Y