I have 6 DB 3512r. Inverted in a 4th order, you can see the motors. They perform great. I’m clamping 4K a sub with no clipping, motors are over 300 degrees for hours sometimes, and they take it all day. I demo a lot at shows. Not the best looking sub though. That’s the one thing I wish DB would change. These DC look great.
i have an american bass subwoofee but if i were to get a new one im going with dc audio next. im going to buy a dc amp first and pair it with the american bass sub
Hear me out.. liquid cooled subwoofers aye. Not sure if that's a thing or not but when he was talking about the heat I started thinking like a water cooled computer. 🤔
Volume is the only reason and/or for looks, can’t agree more with this because I’ve seen it first hand. Built boxes for both inverted and standard and have not ever seen any difference in output. Inverted is great for those single cab truck center console builds cause you get literally like another 1/2 cube. All these people commenting that’s they don’t agree is just opinions. Meters don’t lie
It seems like having the subs mounted standard would decrease the chances of bottoming them out because the subs are actually "inside" the enclosure, versus hanging out of it. So it seems like they could take a little more power, but I could be wrong about that. Until I'm more informed I will stick with standard mounting. Thanks JP for doing this video. Happy Birthday! 🎉
I had some jl w7 12s of course 1 blew again but ive hadem since 2012 and rebuilt twice pulled out that junk made a cut out board threw in some skar evl 12s inverted and they are by far the best sounding subs
@@martinmi5 then the enclosure was not sealed. Air was leaking somewhere. Thru a terminal cup maybe it was a cheaply built box maybe the speakers were not screwed down properly. You cannot smell anything if the box is sealed. I have built thousands of speaker boxes. Worked in a car audio shop for years. I have been competing since 1995. Put something in a glass jar screw the lid on and see if you can smell it. You cannot smell if it is sealed. Your enclosure may have been a sealed box. But it was not 100% sealed. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve seen voice coils get cooked in a sealed box. No smell until you take the sub out.
I thought about doing this with my current system 2 LVL4 12’s on 1 DC 2k! My box is already pretty big though have to go easy till I see what makes it destort and go from there! In my experience it varies by car and box weather or not it helps or hurts and trying it is only way to know! It ain’t hard to do unless you for something like a 13w7 or something with a not perfect round sub line Orion may be harder to mount those!
@@12MessengerI have a DC audio elite 15 but a sundown x15 is just as good and 300$ cheaper I want a avatar stu and there only 500$ bigger coil get avatar
From what I understand Is when you invert your subs you increase the volume but it can also hurt because you now have less port area per square cube only 1 way to find.out tho and try it I'm okanning on putting 2 x15s in my back seat going to have my box made to run inverted
I built your roads. Bought a lot of car audio with the money I got for doing it to. Spent 4 years down there building the southern connector from Spartanburg to Greenville but we did work on Columbia to! I staid down town by the bi-lo center! Felt like a second home being from Ky very similar places!
I only heard pros. Cons would be difficulty installing. Better align that sub up good or byby surround. Mechanical noise, cable management. Also the sub will be protruding out into the cab of the vehicle so if you have room for that why not just get a bigger enclosure. So basically the only pro's are cooling and some people think it looks cool.
Cooling and more bass in a small place. Most crazy bass builds I see always have to have inverted subs because you get so much power with so little air space.
I do both at the same time. It's called isobaric loading. The drivers are mounted cone to cone in a "clamshell." When drivers are coupled this way the Vas value is halved for the group of drivers acting as one driver which means the frequency response stays the same in a box with half the enclosure volume of the original. This also works the other way - you can virtually double the enclosure volume and get a nice bass shelf extension with the physical box size staying the same. Comes handy when you just can't fit a bigger box in your car. So if you have spare watts and spare speakers but no extra space isobaric loading is the cure. So why not just mount the drivers next to each other like a normal person you ask? Because all it does is add a +3db peak to the response around 80-120Hz while taking power away from the 20-80Hz region. It's literally the same as having two subwoofers each in a box half the size of the original - not good at all! You would need to double the enclosure volume to mount two subs in the same box, only then you get that +3db accross the entire operating range instead of being concentrated around 100Hz. Instead of doing that just mount the drivers in a clam shell and it will put all that extra energy into making the sounds you want - 20-80Hz. Works like a charm.
Ive always wondered if theirs a way to use your cars own AC system to cool subs, by “channeling” the AC air to your subs with added ducting wonder if anyone has tried this before!?!?
Just out of curiosity: can inverting the subs cost against you in competing? For example when they say below window line, do they count the subs too when inverted or just the box?
good video buddy, now if we could get a good video on what goes into or how to build a custom sub box that would be great.i just bought my 2nd wolfram platinum 18' should be getting it thursday..plan on getting 2 more for a total of 4...yeah,im trying to move alllll kindzz of air.....alll kindzzz..
One thing I think you might have left out is make sure if sub are inverted the hole usually has to be cut out a little larger or rounded and centered perfectly so the surround doesn't rub.
FACTS JP Inverted subs run cooler and makes the sub player lower because the magnet displacement of air! I always invert my subs even in ported enclosure because that air really gets trap in the port. It's just travel forward and backwards. As the speaker breaks in, it's suspension soften up and it's FS goes down😍🤤 and if it's Inverted.... boy great lows if done right
U can get good lows regardless, just add all your displacements to your desired net volume and build from there. Once u drop everything in it will be sitting at 1.9cbft and smash stupid lows. Thats what I did for a box I built the other day. 10 inch audio pipe sub, literally louder and lower than one of my 15 inch soundqubed subs
@@trailerwithyardwasteonit7188 I have a 15 inch hdx3 too but I prefer them Inverted. I'm a master installer with 20+ years and building enclosure. I'm a beast at building bandpass but in ported enclosure, whenever I can I Invert. Just something I prefer
Ok I gain 5+ dbs by inverting my x 15 v2 with a sub box aka prefab sub box with a 6 inch BIG ASS AREO PORT AND YES IT IS WAY LOUDER THEN L-SLOTS PORTS ON ANY DAY OF THE WEEK. IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE DIMS IS THE KEY PART.
I never did an inverted design because I have always been afraid of my subs becoming PROJECTILES in a accident 40lbx4 160lbs.hurling to the front of my Yukon scares the hell out of me.but guess what? That's how they will be ran2022.becous I have to brand new boxes that's to small.so I have to invert my subs
I have a question, what if I have a ported box with 2×12" in standard, would you suggest inverting one out for better performance, both, or leave as is?
I have a ported box with 2×12", there both kickers and I have one Speaker Inverted and One regularly placed inside the box and Honestly, It looks freaking Beast plus sounds really really good, I personally think it sounds better with one invertered and one regular compared to when I had both subs placed normal with the face plate facing out.
3:15 Oh. I've thought about keeping my amps cool, but not my subs before. 👍🏾💚 3:44 300°. 😬 4:16 I have a coupe, and like to keep one of the back seats open so the heat can get out of the trunk.
Thank you for explaining this. why would they not have it correct for their speaker the manufactures of the cubic feet that seems a little off? For me I have that L7 12” And I have the box built with 1.88 ft.³ with a port it sounds real good with that JP8 on it. So am I under size on the box when the manufacturing says 1.75 ft.³ with a port?
Hey what’s going on price been a big fan for quite a while now of you and what you do and what you’re about I think one of my favorite if not the favorite video is when you were going through Wendy’s and you dropped it on him that was hilarious but the reason for this message is I have a 2019 Nissan Ultima and I miss having a system and I would really like to get your input on what you think would be a good set up I don’t want nothing you know crazy expensive I mean I’ve been looking at powered set ups powered enclosures but for some reason I’m just a little nervous about them I don’t know why LOLO yeah if you could drop some knowledge on me and tell me what you think I’d be greatly appreciate it thank you for your time brother God bless
@@justabouthadit5872 it can't Handel more power than it was rated at. If it was a 600w rms sub, no matter which way you mount it, it will still only Handel 600w. It might sound better to the ear inverted, but it isn't using more power inverted. Subs were made to be put in enclosures.
I got 15 inch subs in the cargo area of my GMC savana van right now the ported box is standing vertical just behind the partition behind the driver seat, I'm thinking of laying it down horizontal facing the right side sliding door, do you think it might help with the sound quality because I would like to feel the bass a bit more😢😊😂😂😂
So in the trunk of my food focus should I have it regular mounted or inverted sense it gets hot as hell in the trunk of a car I have a single 12 kicker solo baric
Do you have to reverse polarity or no thats something ive never herd anything on...i know with isobaric,and the clamshell you have to reverse one or it will not work
When the dimensions of your box are the same square footage as the inside of your vehicle and then the box becomes your port, hahahahahahhahahahahahhahaha
Not expecting a reply TBH but I have a zv5 15 with a 3.5 gross tuned to 32 hz it’s too small cause sundown recommends 4.25 but for the time being until I get a large box should I invert it to get a little more space?
So when you're inverting your subwoofers what settings do you have to change I see some decks actually have like an invert setting do you have to change anything else when you invert a subwoofer or can you just run them while they're inverted
Last time I ran a set of inverted subs I had to retune a little bit but that's on the subsonic and low pass filters that most, if not all amplifiers come with.
Yeah if you add the perfect amount. Best to tape a layer onto the walls and not just stuff it like a pillow. Adding to much will start to cause a muffling sound while adding to little will hardly do anything.
It will change the phase to CORRECT instead of inverted 180 degrees. When you invert the driver you must also invert the electrical polarity. This can have a fairly large impact on the sound quality, especially if you have more than one subwoofer. I recommend wiring them intentionally opposite to what the terminals indicate but you could flip the phase switch on your amp instead (if you don't have any other speaker connected to it)
@@tranquilityaphelion8144 Correct. By reversing the orientation of the driver (such as when you mount it with the motor facing the outside) you are rotating the phase 180 degrees. So you should also wire it in reverse to rotate the phase back to 0 degrees (assuming everything else is also wired properly) Connect the positive wire to the negative terminal and the negative wire to the positive terminal instead of matching them.
So what if i have my sub inverted wired normally, but my deck has sub phase 0 - 180°. Can i use just the phase setting on my deck while leaving it wired normally?
If you have a pioneer radio then it should have a setting on it for inverted subs.most of them do.just go to audio settings n go to where you can adjust you sub levels n it will b there if it has it.it will say normal or reverse
You can either swap the positive and negative or some headunits give you the option in the subwoofer settings to change it to inverted without swapping the wires
@ jonathan price hey man can you read the whole thing I'm trying to be descriptive as possible i have 2 12s sundown sa classics 4ohm each wired to 2 ohm both subwoofers are connected parallel so my load is 1 ohm I have the new Sundown SAE 2000 one ohm stable it's the new model from Sundown replacing the SFB models anyways everything hits really loud but I recently turned my subwoofers facing forward instead of facing towards the trunk and my bass went away big time sounds like I'm listening to a blown 10 do you think if I invert my Subs should make the bass hit loud???? my problem is that the bass is mostly going towards the trunk not inside the vehicle what do you think I need your help brother I'm already to the point where I don't know if I'm clipping my Subs could you help me I'm going to invert them real quick and I will get back to you if that doesn't work I need your help I was thinking maybe it's the Box the box is specifically made for Sundown sa classic it's tuned to 35 hz like I said it's loud when I have the speakers facing the trunk but now that I turn the box around the speakers are facing forward towards back seats bass went completely away and I have my seats down thank you jonathan ill purchase my next setup for my charger through you man i look foward to hearing from you thank you for your time (update inverted the subs they sound better it made a huge difference in sound just need to upgrade my subs to the sundown 1000rms 12 inch subs since the classic SAs seem to be getting hot with in 15 min due to massive constant power im running 2000rms @1ohm I totally understand that putting too much power to Subs any sub is going to get the voice coil hot right away but in this case my gain is at 1/4 the setup sounds good don't get me wrong it sounds really really awesome but I've had Kicker L7 12in Subs with the kicker enclosure for them those subs would hit basically sounded like how I have my 12 inch sundowns playing now and they wouldnt get hot or at least the bass wouldn't seem like it's fading away I understand to that we get tolerance levels you get used to the sound that within time it doesn't sound as loud but it is I'm just saying the kicker L7's they would always hit really really loud in every song i had not set up wired at 0.5 ohms 2 ohms each sub wires to 1 ohm each and wired subs tpgether parralel gived me the 0.5 ohm impedance not safe to do but its possible had the subs with a soundstream picasso 3500.1 that thing hit but with this setup i have the SAs at (1 ohm 4ohm each subwired to 2ohms both subs wired parallel gives me 1 ohm ) giving it its acual rating except amp 2000 RMS at 1 ohm when I have the volume to where I like it I can notice the amp gets warm but the speakers get hot i just recently heard that Sundown has more of a Punchy bass instead of a musical Bass that could be the difference too maybe the Classics don't produce the sound that the kickers do that massive deep deep deep deep bass heard two blocks away this is my first time trying out Sundown audio so far I'm a bit disappointed but they're good because they make a lot of exotic subwoofers way way better than kicker but I'm just comparing the SA classics 12inch to the kicker L7 12 inch I'm not mentioning the L7 because of the square radius of course not I mention it because of the magnet and the voice coil it has the material it has it can handle a lot of heat when buy a good amp the batteries you need 0 gauge wiring kit everything is good but for the subs to get hot right away it's kind of disappointing you basically regret buying the setup instead of going with a different brand in my case when I get the bass to sound like 2 kicker L7 12s at 1 ohm full blast the SAs start warming up fast just giving you guys a heads up on this if it's your first time buying a setup from Sundown or you're looking forward to buying one make sure if you get a 2000 watt amp from Sundown I'd recommend to get the subwoofers that are a little bit stronger than the classic SAs get the sundown 1,000 RMS sub instead of 750 rms classic SAs sub you won't have the problem I'm having⁶
I got the d4s pro fab dual 12 box could I flip my U-series 12's? I'm wondering if the baffling will hold. I don't remember if the V1 will hold up the U-series ass lol.
@@CVLova I have tried it all when I was younger inverted,sealed,bandpass,push&pull,fourth order,sixth order I have always had a system my first was in 1995
I tried it just see and it seemed to be just a touch louder but, it didn't have the lows . I'm running 2 sundown NSV5 15s but my box is the correct size at 8.5cf so I think it was two much air space in the box and then also it's a 4runner so a lot of space inside. They looked super cool inverted but impossible to hide lol 😆. Like it's a huge flashy come steal me sign through the windows.
There is no reason to invert a sub unless you have really large subs in a really small vehicle turning the vehicle into a 4th order bandpass setup more or less. Outside that you are literally sacrificing output and quality for personal looks. There can in some situations be a cooling gain.. but this is a dedicated spl setup only issue where the build is calculating the vehicle airspace as part of the box in a 4th order type setup using the vehicle as part of the box. You’re not gaining box space cause you could’ve just built a bigger box that utilizes the same space.. even the largest subs don’t displace that much over the entire size of a box.. you’re average 12 displaces what .07 cubes if that makes a difference you’re building crap boxes.. The only place I could see an inverted sub in a proper box and vehicle build out performing a normal mounted speaker would be something like a couple 18’s in a crx.. or replacing the center console in a regular cab truck with 4 8’s or 10’d or maybe 2-3 12’s. no one is running sealed boxes anymore cause you can better design and tune a reflex box.. by being reflex you are getting some cooling already.. Idk you’re setup in your Tahoe.. but that is a lot of air space there is zero reason to invert.. maybe with the right quad 18 setup I could start to see this as there would then be enough speaker to turn such a larger airspace into a 4th order setup? Maybe.. But my view.. if you’re inverting subs for cooling it’s cause you’re running inefficient subs off inefficient amps where too much of the power being made is heat not sound.. 83bd subs running 3-4K watts amps with a snr of less then 100.. that is 1500 watts clean power beat care.. the other 2500+ watts is all going to heat in the amp and the VC. You need half bridge amps that are more efficient and subs that are better able to transfer power to sound over heat.. the only reason 3k subs with 3-4” VC exist is cause people are willing to power them with full bridge garbage amps making more heat then sound.. there is a reason the companies that have been around this block for multiple decades like kicker, JL flag are etc don’t sell this garbage.. JL amps cost what they do cause they produce from 12-14v at any ohm.. they do so with a dampening over 400 and signal to noise over 100.. they also make speakers that are more efficient.. all this is why a w7 sub is literally half to 1/4 the size of others with same or more output. Can play in smaller boxes then all others and still perform and needs much much less power to do so.. the old slash amps which are now the HD series I guess.. you lay fir them cause between snl and dampening you’re making 4x more efficient power to the speaker that it can actually use then a 15k tearamps full bridge that is like 70sbr and 89 dampening on a good day.. it’s bit making 15k watts to the sub.. it’s making 700 watts of actual signal and 14k watts of heat that doesn’t generate sound.. you all like to clamp and meter everything now which doesn’t actually show you anything at all.. all these amp dyne videos everyone is making.. no one talking about snl or dampening? That is more important cause it tells you how that power is actually being made.. I can run 40k volts to a neon light.. that doesn’t mean it’s brighter then a 15w led bulb.. This hobby has gone downhill for the last 20 years to a point where everyone thinks watts and xmax mean anything.. you all love to rave about xmax.. yet you all bow use ported boxes to some extent.. xmax mean nothing unless you’re running a sealed box lol.. it’s utterly ridiculous unless you like doing hair tricks on RUclips instead of generating music.. I’m ranting a lot cause this industry and it’s followers need it. The tech has come so far from my day. The knowledge in box building has come even further. But these 40mm xmax subs taking 4K rms with 4” vc running on 10k amps.. lol.. you’re gaining nothing over a guy next door to you running a couple nxv VSW v2 subs coasting $110 each with a snl of 90 taking 600w clean and being powered off a lunch 1500.1 amp in a proper box.. off factory electrical at that. What you think you are saving in high power cheap amps is costing you in vehicle electrical upgrades. Why run a less efficient sub needing more power to generate the same sound as one that can do it off less? Why run an amp that 3/4 of its power is heat bot sound? Seriously it’s like this generation of bass heads skilled bass 101 and 102 class and starred in the gifted class of 103.. it’s a sad thing to see.. Any fool can hit 150db off 4 $100 subs of the right type with a quality amp and big 3 upgrade.. maybe a battery swap at the most depending on the vehicle. You’re all out here glad to lay $3-4-500 per battery to run more garbage power to less efficient subs cause you think a 83db sub with 5k rms can hit harder then an 90bd sub with 600rms lol.. it’s funny and sad at the same time.. just cause power is cheap doesn’t mean it’s good power and worth having and you’re not even getting that power wo a nuclear power plant addition to your vehicle. This is why you all complaining about voltage drop and impedance rise. Cause you’re using garbage equipment based on things that don’t matter. And one last thing this new rage to get to 1ohm or .5 is just a dumb.. the lower your drop the impedance the more heat not sound is generated.. for example.. a 100w amp at 4ohms.. makes say 95 watts clean.. drop that to 2ohm and it’s 200 right.. wrong.. you’re getting 125 clean and 75 is heat.. drop that ton1ohm and that is 400 right? Nope.. you’re making at beat 200 clean and 200 is just hearing the vc of the speaker.. and the amp. This is why your amps are seeing impedance rise and losing so much lower while drawing so many amps.. the lower you drop the less power you are actually generating into sound vs heat and the more amps you will draw.. Doubt me go back and look at amp rubi videos.. look at why one amp costing $300 makes 3k watts but draws say 160 amps while another higher end amp costing 1g makes 3k watts and draws just 120 amps.. It’s simple electricity.. and he’s watts to amps is a simple calculation up until you are converting it to sound and then needing clean signal.. they are not equal.. The reason say a 1000w JL HD1000 will draw less amps then say a Brazilian full bridge amp on RUclips videos on your phone vs a Brazilian amp the size of your hand is because one is converting 1w into 1.2 watts of actually sound… (signal to noise ratio) its transformer is so much more efficient it literally is making more power from less power. When you’re running a full bridge 10k $400 amp with a 70snl.. you are losing power on the transfer process so that 1w entered is now .7 watts on the back side.. you lost .3 watts based power given. The same works for speakers.. an 83db sub is turning 100w into 83 watts of sound.. (trying to keep this simple here this is a real thing but bot entirely mathematically accurate) So here I’m left with leaving you all this question. Why would you feed 100w into an amp that is only making 70w power off that (signal to noise ratio) to then feed that 70w into a speaker that can only convert that 70w of power into 83% sound? That is 59w sound generated from that 100w electrical vehicle power draw that actually come out the speaker that you hear. So where does the other 41w go? Heat.. heat in the amp and heat in the speakers vc.. this is why you have such big power subs and Amps.. lol.. Now let’s look at a 110snl amp. And 90db sub.. you send 100w to the amp.. you’re producing 110w out to the sub.. that sub is then putting to use 90% of that 110w which is 99w (yes it’s not this simple but it paints the picture) So so the Math you sent 100w to one setup and got 59w actual power.. the other you sent 100w and got back 99w actual power.. and all this is before actually calculating dampening factor and ability to control the sub or impedance drop which makes this even worse.. this is a basic 4ohm setup and result.. the math gets worse the lower you drop the impedance End of the rant the equipment now being promoted by most literally needs 10k watts to generate 1000w of actual sound. JL ans kicker don’t make 3k subs for a reason lol. They spend more money on r&d for one amp or one speaker then most other companies you’re buying from gross in an entire year. There is a reason for this.. cause watts don’t matter wo calculating signal to noise of both the speaker and amp vs the current draw and resistance to do so.. you’ve all been tricked by marketing and paid for “reviewers” who are getting compensated on the back end. It’s simple market and sales 🤷♂️
I'm a 100% Deaf Bonce guy through and through but holy shit is that DC a sexy ass sub! One of the best looking subs on the market!
That’s exactly what I was thinking.
Which deaf bonce do you have?
Deaf Bonce is the shitt!
I have 6 DB 3512r. Inverted in a 4th order, you can see the motors. They perform great. I’m clamping 4K a sub with no clipping, motors are over 300 degrees for hours sometimes, and they take it all day. I demo a lot at shows. Not the best looking sub though. That’s the one thing I wish DB would change. These DC look great.
i have an american bass subwoofee but if i were to get a new one im going with dc audio next. im going to buy a dc amp first and pair it with the american bass sub
Hear me out.. liquid cooled subwoofers aye. Not sure if that's a thing or not but when he was talking about the heat I started thinking like a water cooled computer. 🤔
Bazooka did that I thought it was pretty cool
Bazooka had a pump that would send fluid to amps and sub motors to keep cool.
That's a good idea, they got fluid cooled tweeters why not subs
Good luck doing that without adding extra moving mass or parts that wear out
I have a pair of 10s that were able to be used with the liquid cooling but I couldn’t find a kit anywhere
Volume is the only reason and/or for looks, can’t agree more with this because I’ve seen it first hand. Built boxes for both inverted and standard and have not ever seen any difference in output. Inverted is great for those single cab truck center console builds cause you get literally like another 1/2 cube. All these people commenting that’s they don’t agree is just opinions. Meters don’t lie
FACTS!😂👍👍👍
Much smoother delivery excellent video
I’d love to have 2 of those DC’s in a walled setup😍
Only 2?
Good video bro ,I wish I had went with DC,it was a video of DC audio moving serious air,that got me back into car audio.
Thanks again for some awesome info JP happy birthday
I appreciate these videos. Thanks JP
Love the profile name bro!!!
It seems like having the subs mounted standard would decrease the chances of bottoming them out because the subs are actually "inside" the enclosure, versus hanging out of it. So it seems like they could take a little more power, but I could be wrong about that. Until I'm more informed I will stick with standard mounting. Thanks JP for doing this video. Happy Birthday! 🎉
The cone is still in the enclosure.
@@Dingleberry1856 Oh ok wow.
I had some jl w7 12s of course 1 blew again but ive hadem since 2012 and rebuilt twice pulled out that junk made a cut out board threw in some skar evl 12s inverted and they are by far the best sounding subs
You obviously don't appreciate quality or know how to play your system properly. Typical skar fanboy. You'll probably blow those too.
Thanks I've learned something. Hope you had a good birthday 🎉
4th order you have to invert. Only way to smell coils and keep subs cool.
I run mine inverted for exactly that reason I can smell them right away & get them cooled back off before any real damage is done
i can smell coils in a sealed box. You need them inverted to smell them?
@@martinmi5 then the box isn’t sealed. You can’t smell coils in a sealed box.
@@Van1018s I had 15 inch Kicker comp vr's over powered in a sealed box and you could definitely smell the coils when they got hot.
@@martinmi5 then the enclosure was not sealed. Air was leaking somewhere. Thru a terminal cup maybe it was a cheaply built box maybe the speakers were not screwed down properly. You cannot smell anything if the box is sealed. I have built thousands of speaker boxes. Worked in a car audio shop for years. I have been competing since 1995. Put something in a glass jar screw the lid on and see if you can smell it. You cannot smell if it is sealed. Your enclosure may have been a sealed box. But it was not 100% sealed. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve seen voice coils get cooked in a sealed box. No smell until you take the sub out.
yes absolutely right ✌️
and with such a beautiful sub, of course, it also makes visual sense
🤩
With the cabin of the vehicle, it can also make the car airspace a box also. Windows down too is deadly
Or all windows up except passenger window 🗣 when I say a box inside of a ported box sheesh 🗣
Are you saying it hits harder that way?
@@JesusIsLordLasVegasright like wym deadly good or bad cause now I’m intrigued
I was always curious about this. I've heard different things, but you obviously know for real. W
I thought about doing this with my current system 2 LVL4 12’s on 1 DC 2k! My box is already pretty big though have to go easy till I see what makes it destort and go from there! In my experience it varies by car and box weather or not it helps or hurts and trying it is only way to know! It ain’t hard to do unless you for something like a 13w7 or something with a not perfect round sub line Orion may be harder to mount those!
Was looking at level 4s but in 15s. What do u think abt the subs? Not sure to go with resilient sounds dc or deaf bonce
@@12MessengerI have a DC audio elite 15 but a sundown x15 is just as good and 300$ cheaper I want a avatar stu and there only 500$ bigger coil get avatar
From what I understand Is when you invert your subs you increase the volume but it can also hurt because you now have less port area per square cube only 1 way to find.out tho and try it I'm okanning on putting 2 x15s in my back seat going to have my box made to run inverted
Great insight! Thanks for the excellent know how!
They say to flip polarity. I've never done that and would preffer them to hit foward. Always worked good for me.
I would love it mounted standard
Seems to also lower frequency a bit when inverted
COLUMBIA SC IN DIS THANG SINCE DAY ONE.
I built your roads. Bought a lot of car audio with the money I got for doing it to. Spent 4 years down there building the southern connector from Spartanburg to Greenville but we did work on Columbia to! I staid down town by the bi-lo center! Felt like a second home being from Ky very similar places!
@@tammyforbes2101 LOL YESSIR GOOD OLE SOUTH CAROLINA BROTHER
I only heard pros. Cons would be difficulty installing. Better align that sub up good or byby surround. Mechanical noise, cable management. Also the sub will be protruding out into the cab of the vehicle so if you have room for that why not just get a bigger enclosure. So basically the only pro's are cooling and some people think it looks cool.
Cooling and more bass in a small place. Most crazy bass builds I see always have to have inverted subs because you get so much power with so little air space.
Don’t forget visibility and if you’re not tinted or it’s your daily driver you can be a target 🗣
Good idea for people who already have small enclosure and save money without spending much.
I'll stick with the standard mount.
I do both at the same time. It's called isobaric loading. The drivers are mounted cone to cone in a "clamshell." When drivers are coupled this way the Vas value is halved for the group of drivers acting as one driver which means the frequency response stays the same in a box with half the enclosure volume of the original. This also works the other way - you can virtually double the enclosure volume and get a nice bass shelf extension with the physical box size staying the same. Comes handy when you just can't fit a bigger box in your car. So if you have spare watts and spare speakers but no extra space isobaric loading is the cure.
So why not just mount the drivers next to each other like a normal person you ask? Because all it does is add a +3db peak to the response around 80-120Hz while taking power away from the 20-80Hz region. It's literally the same as having two subwoofers each in a box half the size of the original - not good at all! You would need to double the enclosure volume to mount two subs in the same box, only then you get that +3db accross the entire operating range instead of being concentrated around 100Hz.
Instead of doing that just mount the drivers in a clam shell and it will put all that extra energy into making the sounds you want - 20-80Hz. Works like a charm.
That's sounds good 🙌💎🤜 👍👍👍
Just got your quad 8 universal flat pack enclosure 2.29 cf going to mount 4 dc m38 inverted after I build it hopefully it will sound good
Ive always wondered if theirs a way to use your cars own AC system to cool subs, by “channeling” the AC air to your subs with added ducting wonder if anyone has tried this before!?!?
Im.your 1000th "THUMBS UP" lessGo!!!!!!!Thanks for this video my Long time friend. Its been years. Keep the Content coming And Keep GetnLoud!!
I'm still sceptical I want to see numbers inverted and standard mount. Still haven't seen anyone did a video on this subject
the best vedio abt SUPRA!!! 👉👉 ruclips.net/video/zud7CFe8kJE/видео.html 😘😍
There is no difference. Sub is still using the same amount of air space.
if mounted inverted ,do you have to wire the sub backwards so when it hits it still moves outwards first?
inverting subs can change the port tuning
Increase or decrease?
I think its great watching this video with me a sub that i have 😂 love this dc elite 15
Just out of curiosity: can inverting the subs cost against you in competing? For example when they say below window line, do they count the subs too when inverted or just the box?
Yes they do, you would be put into a wall class…
Great video
He sound like sean off Tokyo Drift
Not hatin good content answered what i was wanting to know
Listen folks he knows what he talking about lol
good video buddy, now if we could get a good video on what goes into or how to build a custom sub box that would be great.i just bought my 2nd wolfram platinum 18' should be getting it thursday..plan on getting 2 more for a total of 4...yeah,im trying to move alllll kindzz of air.....alll kindzzz..
RUclips it. Many videos explaining how to. Just depends on how into it you would like to get.
@JP good stuff. On your site the displacement and magnetic weight for this woofer need to be swapped. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
What's your take on sealed vs. ported enclosures? I've only run ported but for my next setup I'm being told go sealed.
The box depends on the subs.. Some subs are built for sealed and some forB ported. I know ported cools speakers faster and get a deeper bass
I really like the informative videos.
Thanks
Yea I like that look
Don’t know if he said this but do you need to reverse speaker polarity when inverting?
One thing I think you might have left out is make sure if sub are inverted the hole usually has to be cut out a little larger or rounded and centered perfectly so the surround doesn't rub.
this is excellent content
Good advice man
Dang that big girl is tegit. Thats a damn nice sub🔈🔉🔊💯💯🇺🇸
FACTS JP
Inverted subs run cooler and makes the sub player lower because the magnet displacement of air! I always invert my subs even in ported enclosure because that air really gets trap in the port. It's just travel forward and backwards. As the speaker breaks in, it's suspension soften up and it's FS goes down😍🤤 and if it's Inverted.... boy great lows if done right
U can get good lows regardless, just add all your displacements to your desired net volume and build from there. Once u drop everything in it will be sitting at 1.9cbft and smash stupid lows. Thats what I did for a box I built the other day. 10 inch audio pipe sub, literally louder and lower than one of my 15 inch soundqubed subs
@@trailerwithyardwasteonit7188 I have a 15 inch hdx3 too but I prefer them Inverted. I'm a master installer with 20+ years and building enclosure. I'm a beast at building bandpass but in ported enclosure, whenever I can I Invert. Just something I prefer
What about if ya have or use polyfill in the box?
Ok I gain 5+ dbs by inverting my x 15 v2 with a sub box aka prefab sub box with a 6 inch BIG ASS AREO PORT AND YES IT IS WAY LOUDER THEN L-SLOTS PORTS ON ANY DAY OF THE WEEK. IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE DIMS IS THE KEY PART.
3:00 - Does that really matter when the box is ported and the sub is moving lots of air in and out of that box?
great info!!
I never did an inverted design because I have always been afraid of my subs becoming PROJECTILES in a accident 40lbx4 160lbs.hurling to the front of my Yukon scares the hell out of me.but guess what? That's how they will be ran2022.becous I have to brand new boxes that's to small.so I have to invert my subs
How bout the phase?
If you invert the subs on a sealed enclosure do you change the polarity on the terminals
Inverted what keeps the foam surround from contacting the wood at full excursion. Looks like it would rub through over time
Using a router to take material out from the flat edge to make it round
If the box is built for the sub to be inverted they cut the hole for the sub just a little bit bigger so you'll have the clearance you need
Would you set up the woofer to play on reverse?Also to haven't done fiery if the subwoofer is inverted
I have a question, what if I have a ported box with 2×12" in standard, would you suggest inverting one out for better performance, both, or leave as is?
Good question 🙌
I have a ported box with 2×12", there both kickers and I have one Speaker Inverted and One regularly placed inside the box and Honestly, It looks freaking Beast plus sounds really really good, I personally think it sounds better with one invertered and one regular compared to when I had both subs placed normal with the face plate facing out.
Cool, I'm glad I asked
3:15
Oh. I've thought about keeping my amps cool, but not my subs before. 👍🏾💚
3:44
300°. 😬
4:16
I have a coupe, and like to keep one of the back seats open so the heat can get out of the trunk.
Thank you for explaining this. why would they not have it correct for their speaker the manufactures of the cubic feet that seems a little off? For me I have that L7 12” And I have the box built with 1.88 ft.³ with a port it sounds real good with that JP8 on it. So am I under size on the box when the manufacturing says 1.75 ft.³ with a port?
JP hit em with some knowledge
Yeah but when you run the speakers inverted do you have to change the phase of the amplifier?
Hey what’s going on price been a big fan for quite a while now of you and what you do and what you’re about I think one of my favorite if not the favorite video is when you were going through Wendy’s and you dropped it on him that was hilarious but the reason for this message is I have a 2019 Nissan Ultima and I miss having a system and I would really like to get your input on what you think would be a good set up I don’t want nothing you know crazy expensive I mean I’ve been looking at powered set ups powered enclosures but for some reason I’m just a little nervous about them I don’t know why LOLO yeah if you could drop some knowledge on me and tell me what you think I’d be greatly appreciate it thank you for your time brother God bless
The question I always had/got was...
"Does inverting your sub make hit harder?"
Overall, no...
Basically just runs cooler.
That being said, could you not supply the subs with MORE power because they can handle more without over heating, in turn making them hit harder?
@@justabouthadit5872 it can't Handel more power than it was rated at. If it was a 600w rms sub, no matter which way you mount it, it will still only Handel 600w.
It might sound better to the ear inverted, but it isn't using more power inverted. Subs were made to be put in enclosures.
I got 15 inch subs in the cargo area of my GMC savana van right now the ported box is standing vertical just behind the partition behind the driver seat, I'm thinking of laying it down horizontal facing the right side sliding door, do you think it might help with the sound quality because I would like to feel the bass a bit more😢😊😂😂😂
So in the trunk of my food focus should I have it regular mounted or inverted sense it gets hot as hell in the trunk of a car I have a single 12 kicker solo baric
So in a 4th order do it matter which way you face the sub? My zvx 12s are facing the ported section and it sits behind the rear deck ports
Do you have to reverse polarity or no thats something ive never herd anything on...i know with isobaric,and the clamshell you have to reverse one or it will not work
When the dimensions of your box are the same square footage as the inside of your vehicle and then the box becomes your port, hahahahahahhahahahahahhahaha
Not expecting a reply TBH but I have a zv5 15 with a 3.5 gross tuned to 32 hz it’s too small cause sundown recommends 4.25 but for the time being until I get a large box should I invert it to get a little more space?
Yes
I heard when you invert your sub you have to invert your deck but will you need the same airspace for the sub or does that change
So when you're inverting your subwoofers what settings do you have to change I see some decks actually have like an invert setting do you have to change anything else when you invert a subwoofer or can you just run them while they're inverted
Last time I ran a set of inverted subs I had to retune a little bit but that's on the subsonic and low pass filters that most, if not all amplifiers come with.
What about adding polyfill to a sub box. When is it necessary or needed?
Yeah if you add the perfect amount. Best to tape a layer onto the walls and not just stuff it like a pillow. Adding to much will start to cause a muffling sound while adding to little will hardly do anything.
What affect does inverting the signal have on the sound quality with an inverted sub setup?
It will change the phase to CORRECT instead of inverted 180 degrees. When you invert the driver you must also invert the electrical polarity.
This can have a fairly large impact on the sound quality, especially if you have more than one subwoofer.
I recommend wiring them intentionally opposite to what the terminals indicate but you could flip the phase switch on your amp instead (if you don't have any other speaker connected to it)
@@elephant1851 so wiring the terminals opposite will change the phase? I have no phase settings on my hd3000 taramps
@@tranquilityaphelion8144 Correct. By reversing the orientation of the driver (such as when you mount it with the motor facing the outside) you are rotating the phase 180 degrees. So you should also wire it in reverse to rotate the phase back to 0 degrees (assuming everything else is also wired properly)
Connect the positive wire to the negative terminal and the negative wire to the positive terminal instead of matching them.
So what if i have my sub inverted wired normally, but my deck has sub phase 0 - 180°. Can i use just the phase setting on my deck while leaving it wired normally?
When will the blue certified bass head 1/0 ofc install kit be in stock?
Seriously, the 10% ofc won’t cut it.
@@UncleMichaelable heck no it won’t. Bout to order sky high kit. It is in stock
Always flip the wiring make it fire like a standard mount.
Or flip the phase switch on your amp or DSP.
Yep. He never mentioned that.
& they look cooler inverted :)
IMO anyway
So inverting something like a Skar zvx or x12v3, that space gained.. how does it affect tuning?
More cone area in some cases?
Do you have to wire the pos and neg differently and switch to phase?
If you have a pioneer radio then it should have a setting on it for inverted subs.most of them do.just go to audio settings n go to where you can adjust you sub levels n it will b there if it has it.it will say normal or reverse
The head unit actually asks you if the sub is inverted? Video please.
@@bobbydillon6032 🤣 no lol it’s just a setting in the menu. It’s the “phase” setting. Picture of a sub normal or inverted.
Good video but wouldn't inverting your sub affect the phase? Would you have to change wiring or on the amp with the phase button
You can either swap the positive and negative or some headunits give you the option in the subwoofer settings to change it to inverted without swapping the wires
If u have a new pioneer it lets u change it on the head unit let u pick inverted or regular phase
Do they sound better?
I want to invert my VXF 12s i just purchased, any box recommendations
Than why in your NEW Truck build did you not have them Inverted ? Guess il lwait for part 2 of the new truck LoL..
@ jonathan price hey man can you read the whole thing I'm trying to be descriptive as possible i have 2 12s sundown sa classics 4ohm each wired to 2 ohm both subwoofers are connected parallel so my load is 1 ohm I have the new Sundown SAE 2000 one ohm stable it's the new model from Sundown replacing the SFB models anyways everything hits really loud but I recently turned my subwoofers facing forward instead of facing towards the trunk and my bass went away big time sounds like I'm listening to a blown 10 do you think if I invert my Subs should make the bass hit loud???? my problem is that the bass is mostly going towards the trunk not inside the vehicle what do you think I need your help brother I'm already to the point where I don't know if I'm clipping my Subs could you help me I'm going to invert them real quick and I will get back to you if that doesn't work I need your help I was thinking maybe it's the Box the box is specifically made for Sundown sa classic it's tuned to 35 hz like I said it's loud when I have the speakers facing the trunk but now that I turn the box around the speakers are facing forward towards back seats bass went completely away and I have my seats down thank you jonathan ill purchase my next setup for my charger through you man i look foward to hearing from you thank you for your time (update inverted the subs they sound better it made a huge difference in sound just need to upgrade my subs to the sundown 1000rms 12 inch subs since the classic SAs seem to be getting hot with in 15 min due to massive constant power im running 2000rms @1ohm I totally understand that putting too much power to Subs any sub is going to get the voice coil hot right away but in this case my gain is at 1/4 the setup sounds good don't get me wrong it sounds really really awesome but I've had Kicker L7 12in Subs with the kicker enclosure for them those subs would hit basically sounded like how I have my 12 inch sundowns playing now and they wouldnt get hot or at least the bass wouldn't seem like it's fading away I understand to that we get tolerance levels you get used to the sound that within time it doesn't sound as loud but it is I'm just saying the kicker L7's they would always hit really really loud in every song i had not set up wired at 0.5 ohms 2 ohms each sub wires to 1 ohm each and wired subs tpgether parralel gived me the 0.5 ohm impedance not safe to do but its possible had the subs with a soundstream picasso 3500.1 that thing hit but with this setup i have the SAs at (1 ohm 4ohm each subwired to 2ohms both subs wired parallel gives me 1 ohm ) giving it its acual rating except amp 2000 RMS at 1 ohm when I have the volume to where I like it I can notice the amp gets warm but the speakers get hot i just recently heard that Sundown has more of a Punchy bass instead of a musical Bass that could be the difference too maybe the Classics don't produce the sound that the kickers do that massive deep deep deep deep bass heard two blocks away this is my first time trying out Sundown audio so far I'm a bit disappointed but they're good because they make a lot of exotic subwoofers way way better than kicker but I'm just comparing the SA classics 12inch to the kicker L7 12 inch I'm not mentioning the L7 because of the square radius of course not I mention it because of the magnet and the voice coil it has the material it has it can handle a lot of heat when buy a good amp the batteries you need 0 gauge wiring kit everything is good but for the subs to get hot right away it's kind of disappointing you basically regret buying the setup instead of going with a different brand in my case when I get the bass to sound like 2 kicker L7 12s at 1 ohm full blast the SAs start warming up fast just giving you guys a heads up on this if it's your first time buying a setup from Sundown or you're looking forward to buying one make sure if you get a 2000 watt amp from Sundown I'd recommend to get the subwoofers that are a little bit stronger than the classic SAs get the sundown 1,000 RMS sub instead of 750 rms classic SAs sub you won't have the problem I'm having⁶
How loud and long do you demo ? dB, and time ?
So how big does a 4th order box have to be for 2 zv6 15s? I bought them from down4sound or you.. but I need help with the box size
do reverse the phase 180 on the amp?
No, only if you use standard and inverted in the same box you swtitch +- on one of the subs.
So I need a fan for hair tricks lol
Does inverted work for any sub?
I got the d4s pro fab dual 12 box could I flip my U-series 12's? I'm wondering if the baffling will hold. I don't remember if the V1 will hold up the U-series ass lol.
Bolt the box down or it may tip forward onto the magnets! 😆
@@johnclark3067 it will be idk if the rubber surround would rub if flipped. I'm still in the building stage not the install stage...
Personally I would never invert any of my subs. I would build my enclosure so I could mount them regularly but I'm a sql guy.
you should try :P
@@CVLova I have tried it all when I was younger inverted,sealed,bandpass,push&pull,fourth order,sixth order I have always had a system my first was in 1995
@@EvanField6380 what you reckon normal or inverted
@@bass-head6306 I would mount them regularly but you do what you want it your system
I love you so much🥰👍
did we leave out that some subs dont do well inverted or...
I tried it just see and it seemed to be just a touch louder but, it didn't have the lows . I'm running 2 sundown NSV5 15s but my box is the correct size at 8.5cf so I think it was two much air space in the box and then also it's a 4runner so a lot of space inside. They looked super cool inverted but impossible to hide lol 😆. Like it's a huge flashy come steal me sign through the windows.
that’s what the window tint is for. It’ll hide it ez pz
@@michaelwisdom4136 yeah but the 2% but not hitting the lows wasn't worth it. I'd build a box that is made to have them inverted.
Invert when the back looks cooler than the front.. thats my policy.. 😊
Inverted subs fire into the enclosure or is the polarity reversed? In other words "sucking in" ?
No they play just it would normally
I would reverse the polarity of inverted subs so they stay "in-phase" with any midbass speakers around the crossover point.
They dont mind the heat. Do they?
When you put 215 of your trunk of your car can you invert it
If you have space to do so or limited on box size
Also pioneer had some oil cooled subs at one point
hey jp just got my jp8
amp 2 hours ago and it keeps going in to protect think you can help?
Check input voltage, ohm load, or a short in your speaker wires. If it still does it then probably an amp issue
@@kathygarber3230 thank you
Turn the gain down.
@@bobbydillon6032 I got it fixed it pounds
There is no reason to invert a sub unless you have really large subs in a really small vehicle turning the vehicle into a 4th order bandpass setup more or less. Outside that you are literally sacrificing output and quality for personal looks. There can in some situations be a cooling gain.. but this is a dedicated spl setup only issue where the build is calculating the vehicle airspace as part of the box in a 4th order type setup using the vehicle as part of the box. You’re not gaining box space cause you could’ve just built a bigger box that utilizes the same space.. even the largest subs don’t displace that much over the entire size of a box.. you’re average 12 displaces what .07 cubes if that makes a difference you’re building crap boxes..
The only place I could see an inverted sub in a proper box and vehicle build out performing a normal mounted speaker would be something like a couple 18’s in a crx.. or replacing the center console in a regular cab truck with 4 8’s or 10’d or maybe 2-3 12’s.
no one is running sealed boxes anymore cause you can better design and tune a reflex box.. by being reflex you are getting some cooling already..
Idk you’re setup in your Tahoe.. but that is a lot of air space there is zero reason to invert.. maybe with the right quad 18 setup I could start to see this as there would then be enough speaker to turn such a larger airspace into a 4th order setup? Maybe..
But my view.. if you’re inverting subs for cooling it’s cause you’re running inefficient subs off inefficient amps where too much of the power being made is heat not sound.. 83bd subs running 3-4K watts amps with a snr of less then 100.. that is 1500 watts clean power beat care.. the other 2500+ watts is all going to heat in the amp and the VC. You need half bridge amps that are more efficient and subs that are better able to transfer power to sound over heat.. the only reason 3k subs with 3-4” VC exist is cause people are willing to power them with full bridge garbage amps making more heat then sound.. there is a reason the companies that have been around this block for multiple decades like kicker, JL flag are etc don’t sell this garbage.. JL amps cost what they do cause they produce from 12-14v at any ohm.. they do so with a dampening over 400 and signal to noise over 100.. they also make speakers that are more efficient.. all this is why a w7 sub is literally half to 1/4 the size of others with same or more output. Can play in smaller boxes then all others and still perform and needs much much less power to do so.. the old slash amps which are now the HD series I guess.. you lay fir them cause between snl and dampening you’re making 4x more efficient power to the speaker that it can actually use then a 15k tearamps full bridge that is like 70sbr and 89 dampening on a good day.. it’s bit making 15k watts to the sub.. it’s making 700 watts of actual signal and 14k watts of heat that doesn’t generate sound.. you all like to clamp and meter everything now which doesn’t actually show you anything at all.. all these amp dyne videos everyone is making.. no one talking about snl or dampening? That is more important cause it tells you how that power is actually being made.. I can run 40k volts to a neon light.. that doesn’t mean it’s brighter then a 15w led bulb..
This hobby has gone downhill for the last 20 years to a point where everyone thinks watts and xmax mean anything.. you all love to rave about xmax.. yet you all bow use ported boxes to some extent.. xmax mean nothing unless you’re running a sealed box lol.. it’s utterly ridiculous unless you like doing hair tricks on RUclips instead of generating music..
I’m ranting a lot cause this industry and it’s followers need it. The tech has come so far from my day. The knowledge in box building has come even further. But these 40mm xmax subs taking 4K rms with 4” vc running on 10k amps.. lol.. you’re gaining nothing over a guy next door to you running a couple nxv VSW v2 subs coasting $110 each with a snl of 90 taking 600w clean and being powered off a lunch 1500.1 amp in a proper box.. off factory electrical at that.
What you think you are saving in high power cheap amps is costing you in vehicle electrical upgrades. Why run a less efficient sub needing more power to generate the same sound as one that can do it off less? Why run an amp that 3/4 of its power is heat bot sound? Seriously it’s like this generation of bass heads skilled bass 101 and 102 class and starred in the gifted class of 103.. it’s a sad thing to see..
Any fool can hit 150db off 4 $100 subs of the right type with a quality amp and big 3 upgrade.. maybe a battery swap at the most depending on the vehicle. You’re all out here glad to lay $3-4-500 per battery to run more garbage power to less efficient subs cause you think a 83db sub with 5k rms can hit harder then an 90bd sub with 600rms lol.. it’s funny and sad at the same time.. just cause power is cheap doesn’t mean it’s good power and worth having and you’re not even getting that power wo a nuclear power plant addition to your vehicle.
This is why you all complaining about voltage drop and impedance rise. Cause you’re using garbage equipment based on things that don’t matter.
And one last thing this new rage to get to 1ohm or .5 is just a dumb.. the lower your drop the impedance the more heat not sound is generated.. for example.. a 100w amp at 4ohms.. makes say 95 watts clean.. drop that to 2ohm and it’s 200 right.. wrong.. you’re getting 125 clean and 75 is heat.. drop that ton1ohm and that is 400 right? Nope.. you’re making at beat 200 clean and 200 is just hearing the vc of the speaker.. and the amp. This is why your amps are seeing impedance rise and losing so much lower while drawing so many amps.. the lower you drop the less power you are actually generating into sound vs heat and the more amps you will draw..
Doubt me go back and look at amp rubi videos.. look at why one amp costing $300 makes 3k watts but draws say 160 amps while another higher end amp costing 1g makes 3k watts and draws just 120 amps..
It’s simple electricity.. and he’s watts to amps is a simple calculation up until you are converting it to sound and then needing clean signal.. they are not equal..
The reason say a 1000w JL HD1000 will draw less amps then say a Brazilian full bridge amp on RUclips videos on your phone vs a Brazilian amp the size of your hand is because one is converting 1w into 1.2 watts of actually sound… (signal to noise ratio) its transformer is so much more efficient it literally is making more power from less power. When you’re running a full bridge 10k $400 amp with a 70snl.. you are losing power on the transfer process so that 1w entered is now .7 watts on the back side.. you lost .3 watts based power given. The same works for speakers.. an 83db sub is turning 100w into 83 watts of sound.. (trying to keep this simple here this is a real thing but bot entirely mathematically accurate)
So here I’m left with leaving you all this question. Why would you feed 100w into an amp that is only making 70w power off that (signal to noise ratio) to then feed that 70w into a speaker that can only convert that 70w of power into 83% sound? That is 59w sound generated from that 100w electrical vehicle power draw that actually come out the speaker that you hear. So where does the other 41w go? Heat.. heat in the amp and heat in the speakers vc.. this is why you have such big power subs and Amps.. lol..
Now let’s look at a 110snl amp. And 90db sub.. you send 100w to the amp.. you’re producing 110w out to the sub.. that sub is then putting to use 90% of that 110w which is 99w (yes it’s not this simple but it paints the picture)
So so the Math you sent 100w to one setup and got 59w actual power.. the other you sent 100w and got back 99w actual power.. and all this is before actually calculating dampening factor and ability to control the sub or impedance drop which makes this even worse.. this is a basic 4ohm setup and result.. the math gets worse the lower you drop the impedance
End of the rant the equipment now being promoted by most literally needs 10k watts to generate 1000w of actual sound. JL ans kicker don’t make 3k subs for a reason lol. They spend more money on r&d for one amp or one speaker then most other companies you’re buying from gross in an entire year. There is a reason for this.. cause watts don’t matter wo calculating signal to noise of both the speaker and amp vs the current draw and resistance to do so.. you’ve all been tricked by marketing and paid for “reviewers” who are getting compensated on the back end. It’s simple market and sales 🤷♂️
Damn, homie. Enough time on your hands?
Too long didn't read. In summary, if you need more cubes then invert your subs.
W7's can't hold up SPL wise any more. Good SQ subs, but definitely not SPL subs.
Thank you