Another excellent video! You should do one comparing power levels of parallel vs. series wiring using the same drivers, amplifier, and enclosure. This will debunk the term "box rise."
I'm not entirely sure how that debunks the term box rise, maybe something attached to the subject I'm unaware of? The term is definitely surrounded by misunderstandings, probably initially coined by people experimenting and crudely testing the power output in different enclosures. Many people, even today, don't even think about impedance curves, and they conflate a nominal impedance to the DC resistance. To me the term just means, that an enclosure affects the impedance curve. Some people probably incorrectly believe it's inherently bad.
12:19 "When you pass a coil through a magnetic field you create voltage". 11:41 - That impedance spike @ 62hz is directly due to the voltage the speaker itself creates as it moves its coil back and forth in the magnetic field. Since the cone vibrates the most at the resonant frequency, it creates the most back emf (electromotive force - voltage) back towards the amplifier. That measures as increases resistance to current flow therefore increased impedance. When you put that driver in a box that impedance curve will change. Anywhere on that new curve you see an impedance minimum the cone hardly moves back and forth (although it is sucking lots of power and pushing hard) and it's the boxes/ports/chambers/horns resonance that does most of the work. Anywhere on that curve you see an impedance maximum, the cone is moving like crazy doing all the work and the boxes/ports/chambers/horns are not resonating much.
Wow, super informative! I knew most of this already, but this is great information to pass down to new bassheads. I do wish you had touched on damping factor, as it's an important concept. It shows how well an amp can control the current, which directly affects the subwoofer's performance. A higher damping factor results in better control, giving you improved sound quality and punchier bass.
So i need to weld all the red 2ohm wires parallel from the black 4ohm wires to level the impedance load from the different inductions that power the wired piping inside my subs right?
What are some good 12inch shallow mount subs that will bang in my single cab for a reasonable price for the power I want something good plan on running d4s jp8
Pioneer were considered the best shallow subs in their price bracket for a fair bit. I've used and installed a heap in all different sizes and have found them to be very good quality and if mounted in a decent box they play about as low and loud as anything else in that price bracket. I really can't fault them to be honest. Id love to see a comparison between some of the common shallow subs as where i am most people don't want or (more commonly because they drive mid size utes (pick up trucks)) can't fit a giant box in their car but do want more than a factory system can provide. Do it dude!!! Shallow mount shoot out!!!!! And maybe box design to maximise volume utilising odd areas of the vehicle. Always a fun project!! Love your work @DIYAudioGuy you're breeding a new generation of bassheads and we need them to keep the boombap alive!!!!
If my subwoofer has sticker on the motor saying "3000w 2x2ohm" Then it will take 3000w, but store page says 1500rms, i have 1500w amplifier but will i buy amp that can do constant 3000w to get everything out of my speaker?
3000w will be peak power, not performance. Youll usually find that the 3000w peak will only be at a certain frequency band meaning not the full frequency range you set it to or want to play at. Look at the subwoofer manufacturers graphs for more information.
Hey, thanks for watching man! Video probably won't do well since I dropped it in the middle of the day on a Monday, but that's okay. This is more about getting a resource out for people to use.
@@DIYAudioGuy they will catch it in your rotation, which due to the complexity of sub wiring, may be for the best. I really love that you have that calculator on your site. Giving back to the community in such a way is so cool.
Dig key calculator works great and you can add multiple resistance. Bud you have said multiple times now that your calculator will give you the same in parallel or series. I hope your just miss saying it.
@@davidschreckengost7959 If you have a single coil and a single subwoofer and you choose parallel you will get the same result as if you choose series since there is no second thing to wire it to.
did you really say that it doesn't matter if you wire a single 2 ohm dual coil sub in series or parallel because they both will give you 1 ohm? wow that's gonna screw somebody up...
He is talking about wiring in series and parallel at the same time. I have done it successfully on home theatre speakers. Only using matched impedance speakers. This type of wiring is a must when running multiple speakers of one channel.
I'll have to clarify that. It's an issue with the calculator. If you only have one voice coil, it doesn't matter if you select series or parallel wiring because the calculator will give you the same result in either situation. Likewise, if you only have one subwoofer, there's no other subwoofer to wire it too. So series versus parallel will not affect the calculation.
@@stuartwinter2758 One time with a nice home stereo amp I wired 2 4 ohm speakers together on parallel for each channel. Didn't realize this was loading 2 ohms on each channel and not 4. It sounded great. The amp only lasted a few months before it burned itself out. Shame
@@connormason7907 They don't realize you don't get more power that way. You're just forcing the amp to work twice as hard. They think if an amp is rated for 1 or 2 ohms, you should try wire the system to get as close to that as possible. Its insane. If the speaker is easier to drive, you don't need as much power. In one ear and out the other.
Dc can produce much trough switch andvphase controlers and this used to be a way amps worked but people do talk on it much but yes dc can should you be send a amp to clipping to the point it produces dc power no it wasnt designed to do so but a newer amp that dose this kinda is the kicker warehouse 10k amp is had a dc output for each coik of a sub and you had to wire one coil to each input and it would switch between coils in push pull coil 1 push coil 2 pull
Are you sure that if you wire a single dual 2 ohm woofer in series it doesnt give you 4 ohms? Because I have done it both ways and there is a very distinct difference in volume from the woofer but that might just be because its a kicker subwoofer. 😂
@@DIYAudioGuymaybe you were trying to say something to the effect of,,, since only one sub, (after you've wired the coils up), It doesn't matter how, you now wire it to the amp? The select subwoofer configuration part ... But I could see how some might not notice
Great vid! 🎉 was hoping you woulda covered how best to connect a dvc to a mono amp with 2 speaker outputs. (Connect wires at sub? Or connect seperate wires from each mono output to each VC ) 🎉
If you have a mono amp with outputs for 2 speakers, its not a mono amp. Its a bridged stereo amp. So, if I'm reading your post correctly and you have a bridged amp, you need to be careful. Bridging a stereo amp is very hard on it. When you connect a speaker to a bridged amp, it shows the amp half its rating in ohms. For example, if you have a 4 ohm speaker, that exact same speaker is 2 ohms if you connect it to a bridged amp. You should only bridge an amp if you have to. Its best just to use it in stereo mode.
I would run 2 ohms and below if I had a high end amp which typically has a very high dampening factor. I will just stick to 4 ohms since i can't afford those amps.
super informative video, god ting i know what all the tings are called, because even i had too jump back too get what you ware saying. Slowe down, easy on the 15 different examples. Its easy too understand when we know evey name of every part.. What was seies vs paralell? what was a voice... dual 4 .. 2... before or after wiered... in what configuration. But i don't DO youtube, i only watch.. so ho am I too complain..
If you're just talking about wiring them up somehow or another, I made a calculator for that, I even made entire RUclips video showing off the calculator. Beyond that, you'll need crossovers, not sure what you want to do there. Are you planning on using the crossover that's on the amp or a DSP? Or do you plan on using a passive crossover network?
Did it ever occur to anyone that a dead short is 0 ohms? These 1 and 2 ohm loads that everyone is trying to achieve is just a slight step away from disconnecting your speaker cables and touching them together. How can that possibly be a good thing? When you decrease ohms, you get more power? No, jackass. If you want more power you buy a bigger amplifier. When you get "more power" by lowering resistance, you're not really getting more power, you're just making your amp work twice as hard to drive the same speaker. When a power amp is rated at 1 or 2 ohms, its called a worst case scenario. You're not supposed try and wire everything to get as close as possible. That's what a 16 year old kid would do. If you have a speaker that's easy to drive, you don't need all that power to begin with.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Another excellent video! You should do one comparing power levels of parallel vs. series wiring using the same drivers, amplifier, and enclosure. This will debunk the term "box rise."
I'll say that to my idea list.
I'm not entirely sure how that debunks the term box rise, maybe something attached to the subject I'm unaware of? The term is definitely surrounded by misunderstandings, probably initially coined by people experimenting and crudely testing the power output in different enclosures. Many people, even today, don't even think about impedance curves, and they conflate a nominal impedance to the DC resistance. To me the term just means, that an enclosure affects the impedance curve. Some people probably incorrectly believe it's inherently bad.
Excellent explanation. Ive never been able to communicate it quite so concisely.
Thanks for watching.
12:19 "When you pass a coil through a magnetic field you create voltage". 11:41 - That impedance spike @ 62hz is directly due to the voltage the speaker itself creates as it moves its coil back and forth in the magnetic field. Since the cone vibrates the most at the resonant frequency, it creates the most back emf (electromotive force - voltage) back towards the amplifier. That measures as increases resistance to current flow therefore increased impedance. When you put that driver in a box that impedance curve will change. Anywhere on that new curve you see an impedance minimum the cone hardly moves back and forth (although it is sucking lots of power and pushing hard) and it's the boxes/ports/chambers/horns resonance that does most of the work. Anywhere on that curve you see an impedance maximum, the cone is moving like crazy doing all the work and the boxes/ports/chambers/horns are not resonating much.
Cool stuff.
Wow, super informative! I knew most of this already, but this is great information to pass down to new bassheads. I do wish you had touched on damping factor, as it's an important concept. It shows how well an amp can control the current, which directly affects the subwoofer's performance. A higher damping factor results in better control, giving you improved sound quality and punchier bass.
So i need to weld all the red 2ohm wires parallel from the black 4ohm wires to level the impedance load from the different inductions that power the wired piping inside my subs right?
I did not follow that.
What are some good 12inch shallow mount subs that will bang in my single cab for a reasonable price for the power I want something good plan on running d4s jp8
Sd4 10s worked for me in my extended cab downfiring
The really good shallow mounts are expensive: howl.link/nx4f6156piptc and howl.link/qmswj5fdwzn9i are probably the best.
Wāvtech thinPRO 12
Pioneer were considered the best shallow subs in their price bracket for a fair bit.
I've used and installed a heap in all different sizes and have found them to be very good quality and if mounted in a decent box they play about as low and loud as anything else in that price bracket.
I really can't fault them to be honest.
Id love to see a comparison between some of the common shallow subs as where i am most people don't want or (more commonly because they drive mid size utes (pick up trucks)) can't fit a giant box in their car but do want more than a factory system can provide.
Do it dude!!!
Shallow mount shoot out!!!!!
And maybe box design to maximise volume utilising odd areas of the vehicle.
Always a fun project!!
Love your work @DIYAudioGuy you're breeding a new generation of bassheads and we need them to keep the boombap alive!!!!
If my subwoofer has sticker on the motor saying "3000w 2x2ohm" Then it will take 3000w, but store page says 1500rms, i have 1500w amplifier but will i buy amp that can do constant 3000w to get everything out of my speaker?
Yes 3k watts amp
@@62dobie Also my shitty amp only gets to 31v at output when measured with multimeter
3000w will be peak power, not performance. Youll usually find that the 3000w peak will only be at a certain frequency band meaning not the full frequency range you set it to or want to play at. Look at the subwoofer manufacturers graphs for more information.
No idea, that label is a little confusing. I would assume 3000 w total power. But not many subwoofers can take that kind of power.
Great explanation, thank you!
Fantastic, informative video. Another home run sir.
Hey, thanks for watching man!
Video probably won't do well since I dropped it in the middle of the day on a Monday, but that's okay. This is more about getting a resource out for people to use.
@@DIYAudioGuy they will catch it in your rotation, which due to the complexity of sub wiring, may be for the best.
I really love that you have that calculator on your site. Giving back to the community in such a way is so cool.
1:00 cat = automatic like from me
She likes to be in the middle of everything.
i really, really need to pick up a DATS for the audio tool kit
I'll make sure to add a link to the video description. If you buy it from Parts Express, use the code DIY5 for a discount.
Dig key calculator works great and you can add multiple resistance. Bud you have said multiple times now that your calculator will give you the same in parallel or series. I hope your just miss saying it.
?
On your calculator explanation lol. You kept saying it didn't matter it would come out the same! I hoped you just miss spoke there bud lol
@@davidschreckengost7959 If you have a single coil and a single subwoofer and you choose parallel you will get the same result as if you choose series since there is no second thing to wire it to.
@DIYAudioGuy oooo OK gotcha 👍
Numbers💥 got it
did you really say that it doesn't matter if you wire a single 2 ohm dual coil sub in series or parallel because they both will give you 1 ohm? wow that's gonna screw somebody up...
It will destroy the amp
He is talking about wiring in series and parallel at the same time. I have done it successfully on home theatre speakers. Only using matched impedance speakers. This type of wiring is a must when running multiple speakers of one channel.
I'll have to clarify that. It's an issue with the calculator. If you only have one voice coil, it doesn't matter if you select series or parallel wiring because the calculator will give you the same result in either situation.
Likewise, if you only have one subwoofer, there's no other subwoofer to wire it too. So series versus parallel will not affect the calculation.
@@stuartwinter2758 One time with a nice home stereo amp I wired 2 4 ohm speakers together on parallel for each channel. Didn't realize this was loading 2 ohms on each channel and not 4. It sounded great. The amp only lasted a few months before it burned itself out. Shame
@@connormason7907 They don't realize you don't get more power that way. You're just forcing the amp to work twice as hard. They think if an amp is rated for 1 or 2 ohms, you should try wire the system to get as close to that as possible. Its insane. If the speaker is easier to drive, you don't need as much power. In one ear and out the other.
Dc can produce much trough switch andvphase controlers and this used to be a way amps worked but people do talk on it much but yes dc can should you be send a amp to clipping to the point it produces dc power no it wasnt designed to do so but a newer amp that dose this kinda is the kicker warehouse 10k amp is had a dc output for each coik of a sub and you had to wire one coil to each input and it would switch between coils in push pull coil 1 push coil 2 pull
Are you sure that if you wire a single dual 2 ohm woofer in series it doesnt give you 4 ohms? Because I have done it both ways and there is a very distinct difference in volume from the woofer but that might just be because its a kicker subwoofer. 😂
If you wire a pair of 2 ohm resistors in series you get 4 ohms.
@DIYAudioGuy lol
@@DIYAudioGuy it did sound like you said in the video that you would get the same either way
@@DIYAudioGuymaybe you were trying to say something to the effect of,,, since only one sub, (after you've wired the coils up), It doesn't matter how, you now wire it to the amp? The select subwoofer configuration part ... But I could see how some might not notice
Great vid! 🎉 was hoping you woulda covered how best to connect a dvc to a mono amp with 2 speaker outputs. (Connect wires at sub? Or connect seperate wires from each mono output to each VC ) 🎉
I'll have to add that to my list of video ideas.
If you have a mono amp with outputs for 2 speakers, its not a mono amp. Its a bridged stereo amp. So, if I'm reading your post correctly and you have a bridged amp, you need to be careful. Bridging a stereo amp is very hard on it. When you connect a speaker to a bridged amp, it shows the amp half its rating in ohms. For example, if you have a 4 ohm speaker, that exact same speaker is 2 ohms if you connect it to a bridged amp. You should only bridge an amp if you have to. Its best just to use it in stereo mode.
Estou ouvindo o audio do Video em PORTUGUES 😂 que legau que legau
It is a new feature added by RUclips to automatically dub in several of the most popular languages..
I would run 2 ohms and below if I had a high end amp which typically has a very high dampening factor. I will just stick to 4 ohms since i can't afford those amps.
I wonder how much that matters? Unfortunately the equipment needed to test it is $$$$$$$.
This is the first post that actually makes sense. Only in car audio would someone think a 2 ohm load is better than a 4 ohm load.
Its not about more bass, but about the right amount
What if more is the right amount?🤨
@DIYAudioGuy then its perfect
super informative video, god ting i know what all the tings are called, because even i had too jump back too get what you ware saying.
Slowe down, easy on the 15 different examples. Its easy too understand when we know evey name of every part..
What was seies vs paralell? what was a voice... dual 4 .. 2... before or after wiered... in what configuration.
But i don't DO youtube, i only watch.. so ho am I too complain..
Noted.
@0:56 OMG STOP! my vertigo just went off.......thanks for nothing
Not me bud I got ohms law down pat lol
Good!
How can I run 4 8ohn mid-range speakers and 44ohm tweeters to one four channel amp without damage to amp?
If you're just talking about wiring them up somehow or another, I made a calculator for that, I even made entire RUclips video showing off the calculator.
Beyond that, you'll need crossovers, not sure what you want to do there. Are you planning on using the crossover that's on the amp or a DSP? Or do you plan on using a passive crossover network?
Or, just buy another amp for tweeters.
Did it ever occur to anyone that a dead short is 0 ohms? These 1 and 2 ohm loads that everyone is trying to achieve is just a slight step away from disconnecting your speaker cables and touching them together. How can that possibly be a good thing?
When you decrease ohms, you get more power? No, jackass. If you want more power you buy a bigger amplifier. When you get "more power" by lowering resistance, you're not really getting more power, you're just making your amp work twice as hard to drive the same speaker. When a power amp is rated at 1 or 2 ohms, its called a worst case scenario. You're not supposed try and wire everything to get as close as possible. That's what a 16 year old kid would do. If you have a speaker that's easy to drive, you don't need all that power to begin with.
Watch the video again, you missed the last half of it.
@@DIYAudioGuy No I didn't.
Ohms law? E over I times R.
Different sources use different notation, and of course you can always rearrange the formula any way you like with a little bit of algebra.