Thank you for this video!! I'm about to paint my exterior doors and this helped so much! Not only do I feel confident, because you made it look pretty easy :-), but I'm excited for my doors to look new again like yours. I appreciate you taking the time to post this for us!!!!
@@AlleyPicked What type of roller did you use to prime and to paint, what is the UPC# of the bag they came in so I know what to buy as there are so many different types of rollers, please reply asap..thanks! Alley great vid!
@@joed.426 Hi Joe. I used a common 4" foam roller. I dont have the UPC but here's a link to amazon for a similar one. They sell these in the paint department at Home Depot or Lowes Hardware. www.amazon.com/Mister-Rui-Rollers-Improvement-Painting/dp/B096S4GXPZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=foam+paint+roller&qid=1632141723&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ1pQQ1YzQjhLVzFYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTU0NjY1MU81N09SOTlMS0RDRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ4NDc1MTdIRjRBN1FaUFJDVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Unfortunately I can't take my doors down because of where I'm working,but that is a great idea!!! Getting ready to paint 3 steel doors,thanks for all the great tips.
@@AlleyPicked yeah, these had a line of rust 2" wide at the bottom from a rubber strip that's now gone, so that was a lot of fun trying to hand sand that close to the ground. I wanted so bad to take them outside with an orbital, mainly to do a more sufficient sanding, and get the very bottom edge also. The jambs and around hinges and hardware are a real challenge when it's hanging also, but, I can only do what the boss says. Thanks again. I can't wait for the opportunity to use the spinning door method, that is genius .
It's always good to treat the rust. I didn't know about this when I did the video but there is a product called Klean Strip Metal Prep from Home Depot that converts the rust to iron. It's amazing stuff and reasonably priced. Thanks for the feedback. Tom
Store those rollers in the fridge and you can come back a year later. They'll still be good. But I wonder if you store it in the freezer would it be a lifetime roller... Hmmm.
I've done this to my basement door, but the rust, even if pin sized, continues to bleed back through. I sanded, then used a file for heavier rust areas. I've used metal primer, then bonding primer, then high quality trim paint. Because it continues to bleed back through, I'm guessing I did not remove the rust enough, so I should sand/file again or do that plus Bondo layer to encapsulate it. Any thoughts? I saw that Ospho you mentioned, would that be right for this application? I've been working on this door multiple times in the last month, but saw the rust this morning. I found your video afterward, thanks so much.
Ospho is your answer. That stuff is amazing. It doesnt cover the rust, it changes it chemically into iron and can be painted. Sand the door again as much as possible, apply Ospho. Wait a day, then prime and paint. I'd be suprised if that doesn't work.
You can remove hinges and lock if you want to take the extra time. I usually paint around them. I did paint the top of the door. The bottom has a rubber seal which you don't want to paint.
I have an exterior steel door painted white. I have some surface rust corrosion that is raised / bubbled in areas. Your video does not discuss what to do about that type of rust. My concern is that because it is raised, if I do some sanding that it may reveal holes. Thoughts?
Sanding it will probably reveal small pitted holes. To repair it you will need to sand off the bubbles. Once you get down to the rust, if you can't sand it all off, you can treat it using a product like Klean Strip metal prep, or Ospho. You can then paint over or repair the holes using bondo (similar to working on a car).
OK..question, what if it's an exterior door and being Chicago, I can't remove the door and leave a gaping hole? also, what kind of paint should I use for a door exposed to the elements?
On a warm day would be best if you could remove the door and cover the hole with plastic for a few hours. If removing the door is out of the question you can paint it while it is in place. Just don't have excess paint on your roller or brush otherwise it will run and leave streaks on the door. You can go to home depot or Lowes and they can provide a high quality exterior paint in a quart size.
Depends on the brand and type. Oil based always takes longer to dry. Best to read the can for what is recommended. If it's completely dry to the touch and evenly dried, it should be ok to start painting.
Even hollow core doors have a strip of wood on the ends. You should be able to put a small screw into the ends of the door. Silicone caulk is a good idea to fill the hole. You can always skip the screws in the end and lay the door flat, paint one side, let it dry, then paint the other side.
Great job, just in time for my endeavor. Perfect idea to pivot to allow working on both sides. Bravo
This was the only paint video that I could watch because it's so realistic and fast. Thank you so much!
Thanks. Thats a pretty old one I made...Here's another you might find useful:ruclips.net/video/7qm1t5DyW50/видео.html
Thank you for this video!! I'm about to paint my exterior doors and this helped so much! Not only do I feel confident, because you made it look pretty easy :-), but I'm excited for my doors to look new again like yours. I appreciate you taking the time to post this for us!!!!
Glad to help - thanks you for the feedback.
@@AlleyPicked What type of roller did you use to prime and to paint, what is the UPC# of the bag they came in so I know what to buy as there are so many different types of rollers, please reply asap..thanks! Alley great vid!
@@joed.426 Hi Joe. I used a common 4" foam roller. I dont have the UPC but here's a link to amazon for a similar one. They sell these in the paint department at Home Depot or Lowes Hardware.
www.amazon.com/Mister-Rui-Rollers-Improvement-Painting/dp/B096S4GXPZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=foam+paint+roller&qid=1632141723&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ1pQQ1YzQjhLVzFYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTU0NjY1MU81N09SOTlMS0RDRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQ4NDc1MTdIRjRBN1FaUFJDVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Unfortunately I can't take my doors down because of where I'm working,but that is a great idea!!! Getting ready to paint 3 steel doors,thanks for all the great tips.
I have a couple to do myself. Sometimes I just leave them in place. Just have to watch out for drips.
@@AlleyPicked yeah, these had a line of rust 2" wide at the bottom from a rubber strip that's now gone, so that was a lot of fun trying to hand sand that close to the ground. I wanted so bad to take them outside with an orbital, mainly to do a more sufficient sanding, and get the very bottom edge also.
The jambs and around hinges and hardware are a real challenge when it's hanging also, but, I can only do what the boss says. Thanks again. I can't wait for the opportunity to use the spinning door method, that is genius .
We find treasure like this all the time!!! We use acid on rust. Great educational video.
It's always good to treat the rust. I didn't know about this when I did the video but there is a product called Klean Strip Metal Prep from Home Depot that converts the rust to iron. It's amazing stuff and reasonably priced. Thanks for the feedback. Tom
Nicely explained. Thanks 🙏🏻
Good job! Thanks for sharing.
You are a wizard.
Exterior doors often the rust comes from interior, make sure you remove the drain plugs. This the root cause of most rust.
Store those rollers in the fridge and you can come back a year later. They'll still be good.
But I wonder if you store it in the freezer would it be a lifetime roller... Hmmm.
I've done this to my basement door, but the rust, even if pin sized, continues to bleed back through. I sanded, then used a file for heavier rust areas. I've used metal primer, then bonding primer, then high quality trim paint. Because it continues to bleed back through, I'm guessing I did not remove the rust enough, so I should sand/file again or do that plus Bondo layer to encapsulate it. Any thoughts? I saw that Ospho you mentioned, would that be right for this application?
I've been working on this door multiple times in the last month, but saw the rust this morning. I found your video afterward, thanks so much.
Ospho is your answer. That stuff is amazing. It doesnt cover the rust, it changes it chemically into iron and can be painted. Sand the door again as much as possible, apply Ospho. Wait a day, then prime and paint. I'd be suprised if that doesn't work.
@@AlleyPicked awesome! Thanks for the quick reply and wonderful tips.
You have flipping skills lol. Nice tip on painting the door!
Great vid. My steel door is very smooth. What primer is best for this?
As long as you treat the rust, a good paint mixed with primer also works.
Great if you're able to take the door down. I'm not able to do this.
great tips, but why didn't you remove the hinges & lock & paint the 2 side edges?
You can remove hinges and lock if you want to take the extra time. I usually paint around them. I did paint the top of the door. The bottom has a rubber seal which you don't want to paint.
I have an exterior steel door painted white. I have some surface rust
corrosion that is raised / bubbled in areas. Your video does not
discuss what to do about that type of rust. My concern is that because
it is raised, if I do some sanding that it may reveal holes. Thoughts?
Sanding it will probably reveal small pitted holes. To repair it you will need to sand off the bubbles. Once you get down to the rust, if you can't sand it all off, you can treat it using a product like Klean Strip metal prep, or Ospho. You can then paint over or repair the holes using bondo (similar to working on a car).
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the tip. Would it be better to use an electric sander for this type of rust?
@@HHMike2 I always use an orbital sander but hand sanding also works.
Do you have to use steel primer ? Or will the Bin primer be ok ?
The bin primer should be ok. Be sure to sand and clean before applying and you should be good. Treat any rust before priming.
Can you make that metal door look like a barn door? 😀 If you ever wanted to do that?
Anything is possible if you have the skills.
OK..question, what if it's an exterior door and being Chicago, I can't remove the door and leave a gaping hole? also, what kind of paint should I use for a door exposed to the elements?
On a warm day would be best if you could remove the door and cover the hole with plastic for a few hours. If removing the door is out of the question you can paint it while it is in place. Just don't have excess paint on your roller or brush otherwise it will run and leave streaks on the door. You can go to home depot or Lowes and they can provide a high quality exterior paint in a quart size.
Inorite s
Thanks!!
Sweet video!! thanks brother.
How long for the primer to dry? I know for outdoor paint, the normal dry time is 4 hours.
Depends on the brand and type. Oil based always takes longer to dry. Best to read the can for what is recommended. If it's completely dry to the touch and evenly dried, it should be ok to start painting.
Why do you have a steal interior door?
That is a basement exterior door.
how many hours took you to do it?
probably 2-3 hours of work. had to let it dry between coats
what do you do about the holes you drilled the door?
The hole didn't go all the way through. You can leave it or fill it with some wood filler.
+Alley Picked
What if it is a hollow core door?
Would you just like put a thin mesh strip over the hole and silicone caulk it?
Even hollow core doors have a strip of wood on the ends. You should be able to put a small screw into the ends of the door. Silicone caulk is a good idea to fill the hole. You can always skip the screws in the end and lay the door flat, paint one side, let it dry, then paint the other side.
I noticed you painted the hinges. If that’s not a hack job I dunno what is.