Complete Dry Pour Tutorial Every Step Thank You Cajun Country Livin'!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 май 2023
- Thanks to Cajun Counrty Livin I did my second dry pour concrete method to make a slab outside of the door to my pool enclosure. I cover every step in this video. I absolutely loved how easy it was and how it turned out. This is a complete tutorial #drypourconcrete #cajuncountrylivin
Спорт
It's such a small project that the soil may not be an issue ...but folks...believe me top soil is not the solution - especially if it is a big project...save yourself a load of trouble...pay a couple nickles more for pea gravel, gravel or paver base...you want a solid base, and something that will not shift or erode. But hats off for showing the things you do know. Also good job for showing everyone beginning to end and mentioning the tools you need - I think a lot of folks will benefit from that
I appreciate your words and I agree top soil is not the best solution but I do have to comment that gravel is not necessary. I base this on simple observation of the building practices here in Florida. I live in a large house that I watched the construction crew build and they poured the foundation on ground without a gravel base. All houses in Florida are built this way. All lots are filled with ‘builders sand’ , leveled out, packed down and the foundations are poured directly on top of sand with no gravel base. Most foundation are 4-6” thick with the edges of the foundations 8” or more thick. Every house and driveway is built this way in Florida. So I would think that if this is sufficient for a two story house, it’s sufficient for any DIY project. Gravel is simply unnecessary. But I do admit that topsoil is not as good as sand.
I think we agree more than disagree. -In areas of the country where you have less shifting and heaving issues it may not be as much of a issue. but if you have a lower fostline it would definitly be a problem.. Wisconsin, Ohio, Michigan illinois etc gravel is a must so I suppose it some of this stuff comes down to the area you are in. Which I'm sure not everyone is aware of...good video @@yoursimplegolfswing
@@mrwonderfulhere2 good point on different building needs depending where you live in the country. We have no freezing down here.
😂🎉
Still no cracking it’s been about four months or so
Thanks for sharing I’m also doing a dry pour this was very helpful 😊
My pleasure. It’s been over a year since I did my two dry pour projects, and they both still look great.
Looking forward for next pouring. Looking great
Thank you…I’ve been looking for other projects because this is actually quite fun.
Just seeing how you are doing it a good job, like a professional concrete slab poring 😊
Thank you Samuel. It was only my second project. It shows how easy this method is
nice detailed video. TY :}
Thank you!
Looks great!
Thank you! That means a lot coming from a Pro
@@yoursimplegolfswing Oh boy, I am definitely not a pro :) I'm just a DIY guy that likes to experiment with this Dry Pour concrete technique and I'm learning as I go. Again, yours looks great!
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 I appreciate your comments just the same! I love this method, it’s clean and easy
Dry concrete also works well in walkways where you want to surface it with flat rock type pavers
Patrick, thanks for your comment. I think that’s a great idea
Happy New Year from Auckland, New Zealand ...job well done !!!
Happy New Year!
Helps if you dig in some stakes to keep your form boards in place and you can also screw it together to the boards to help keep it level
Yes, putting stakes in to keep the form boards in place is a good idea, but I found it not necessary for such a small project. I experienced no issues without using them.
When you frame your platform use the stake seport to keep in place
I don’t bother with staking it on small projects and as you can see, it turned out perfect. My biggest dry pour was my 6’ x 5’ 4” slab for my golf driving range (see video on my channel) with no staking. Dry concrete mix isn’t as heavy as wet concrete so it doesn’t move the frame as much. Also, since I put dirt/sand inside the frame and pack it, there isn’t much chance for movement
Looks Great!! Hope You Bought A Plastic Extender So Your Drainspout Doesn't Have To Drain On Top Of Your Concrete Slab.
That’s precisely where I want it to drain
The 1st mist should be applied lightly and standing a little away from the mix and higher, better over your head, so you don’t disturb the smoothness of the topping mix.
I’ve done two slabs that have turned out perfectly so far, but thanks for your thoughts
When your edging you have to put the pressure away from the direction your moving the tool to smooth on the backend
Thank you for contributing
Great job. I wonder how long it will be before the trolls start posting that dry pours are just wrong.
It didn’t take long
Nice job.....im going to be doing 8x8x2....do i need to put that screening stuff
It really depends on what you plan to use a slab for. If it’s going to be bearing heavy weight, I would probably use it. But if it’s just gonna be for like a patio or something, you shouldn’t need it.
Looks good. I've watched several of these dry pour videos with differing top surface qualities. A small technique detail that I've noticed during the screeding process that you do the same as Cajun Country Livin does, but many of the poor top surface quality videos don't do is the amount of side-to-side movement. You and CCL moved your screeding board at least 4" side-to-side, but many of the other videos only move the screeding board a couple inches side-to-side. Am I picking up on the technique properly?
I have a small pad that I want to pour (replacing 2x2 patio pavers), but it is in a corner. Any ideas on how to screed that well? Or should I not worry about it since the pad will be for my hose reel and mostly not visible?
I say both. Don't worry about or use a smaller piece of wood to screed?
I’d love to give you an answer that makes me sound like an expert, but I’m completely new to this myself. Hopefully, my videos demonstrated how easy this is for a novice. I just followed Cajun Country Livin’ and did what they did and it worked. Any other answer would be me just pretending to know what I’m talking about
If I had to guess I’d agree with you David
In one video I watched, the guy attached a small electric sander to his screed board. The vibrations of the screed had the same effect as the side-to-side motion of manual screeding, but with less effort. Maybe this solution could work for you since you don’t have much room for the side-to-side motion.
Great job. I was concerned that where the new slab might not adhere against the old slab and a crack would form.
I actually think the dry pour method helps it to adhere to existing concrete probably better than a wet pour. I think it allows the cement mix to get into the pores of the existing slab better when they are dry and close to the consistency of fine dust. I think this causes a better bond. But that is just my uneducated theory.
I used a foam expansion joint from Lowes between the old and new (Reflectix 0.5-in x 4-in x 50-ft Polyolefin Concrete Expansion Joints). Construction adhesive used to bond to the old before the dry pour. Might be something to investigate if you have a lot of hot and cold swings in temperature.
@@bammerbiff1621 I’m in Florida, we don’t experience real cold
@@yoursimplegolfswing True but heat makes concrete expand. Cold just makes it contract. If there is no room for either, cracks could occur.
@@bammerbiff1621 heating up concrete causes expansion. Concrete that cured in 92 degrees ambient temperature cannot expand further if it doesn’t get hotter. I lived in a house for 13 years here in Florida that I had a 12’ x 33’ slab poured attached to the existing house slab with no expansion joint. I sold the house, after renting it out for another 11 years. So, after 24 years, it still had not cracked. We don’t have the long winter freezes and then the spring/summer warming like up north. That’s what causes expansion/contraction. BTW, contraction also causes cracking
I'm going to try this. However did you use the regular concrete mix or the dry pour that says just add water? Thanks!
I’m pretty sure all concrete mix says just add water. The only other choice is cement mix where you have to add gravel, sand and water. Concrete mix contains cement, gravel, and sand already mixed together in a bag. I’m not sure if you can actually find a concrete mix that doesn’t say just add water. Don’t confuse concrete and cement, cement is merely an ingredient of concrete.
@@yoursimplegolfswing Ok. I had been seeing Quikrete used more than Sakrete for the dry pour videos and thought it may have been a difference in them. Thanks!
@@mcc12493 they are pretty much the same. Just make sure you buy concrete, NOT cement
It’s like George Clooney and Big were blended together
If I could have their combined bank accounts!
Can you put the top 1/4” or so using a morter mix to cover the pebbles?
Just screed it with a 2x4, that makes the aggregate go below the surface
@@yoursimplegolfswing Thank you !
@@boblead6591 my pleasure
I was hoping that you were going to route that downspout under the pad with PVC pipe. :)
It would wash out the sandy soil, the slab will help disperse the water and it certainly won’t hurt the concrete
For that small size of a pad, you might as well be done much quicker to wet-pour it.
I find the dry pour method much easier, especially for cleanup
The concrete should be watered continuous for days to help the concrete cure. The more water the better. Takes 30 days for it to cure completely. Twice a day even though it is solid enough to walk on
Maurice, I appreciate your guidance and I agree. There are two things to keep in mind though. This is not a load bearing slab and the second thing is that the rainy season has begun here in Florida, daily watering by hand isn’t necessary. But yes, continued watering would otherwise be a good choice
@@yoursimplegolfswing I just one of those RUclips experts that have to have something to say. Lol. Good job
@@mauriceevans6546 LOL! I appreciate you Maurice
How long until you could walk on it ? I just finished a 12’x10’x4” slab almost 2 days ago and I’ve finished the misting and soaked it 6 times now.
I walked on it 24 hrs after completion. For a slab your size, water it once a day everyday for 28 days (concrete takes 28 days to fully cure) but you can certainly walk on it now
@@yoursimplegolfswing Thanks for the quick response! Appreciate it
@@revfpv7908 your timing was perfect. I was having my morning coffee.
@@yoursimplegolfswing I live in Florida too. Pasco county
@@revfpv7908 I’m in New Port Richey
You are using your edger backwards. But good job.
I don’t understand. The edger can only be used one way.
Too ambitious for me lol
LOL!