I have a 2017 991.2. Awesome. Watched once and it was very easy. I have done before but found this to be the best refresher. Learned about metal clip on front! Thanks so much and no BS, just real simple instruction. Very good photography.
Not THE special tool. But this works nicely. The small pins slide into the slots on either side of the screw head and you can adjust the tool so the pins are close to the center. This gives you leverage to get the screws loosened up.
Thanks for sharing. One of my clips on the passenger side was missing straight from the factory. It must have been on a Friday over there in Germany when assembling. Lol
I have a question about the airflow for the filter in the passenger foot well. The filter I bought has the writing in the center but it does have a flow arrow. Should the arrow point toward the passenger side or the driver side?
For those under-dash screws, has anyone tried making a tool by rounding off an old (or cheap) flathead screwdriver with a file or dremel to match the radius?
Well I'm going to change my filters since you only had 5000 miles on it. I live in Southern California on the air conditioning is always running so that one's going to be dirty
Helpful and I don't know about the rest of you, but I reinstalled the three plastic screws below the glove box, finger tight not using a quarter, screw driver or other tool. Hope it makes it easier 2 years from now to do it all over again. It also helps to push up on the foam cover when removing those screws to take some of the pressure off them.
Thanks. Nice to see it's such an easy job. Just did the first oil change on my GT4 and it was also a breeze except that the oil level wouldn't show until, the next morning. Was kind of longing for a dipstick :)
Can’t get my screws out for the interior filter replacement. I have tried coins, screw drivers, pliers, and a paper clip. I am beginning to think Porsche did this on purpose.
Well that's annoying! Can you squeeze some needle nose pliers under the edge, pinch, and turn? Maybe use a dremel and make a deeper slot. There has to be an actual tool - it's so dumb.
Id like to see the wide shot of you putting that last under-dash screw in. Yes, it sucked(!!!), but looks like you were stretched across the center console in a corkscrew position. Im afraid I’ll crush my controls doing that. But really, any advice on that last “way up under” screw? I pushed mine in and twisted with my fingers, but no way can I get a quarter or driver in that slot to turn it. Guess Ill be watching the passenger footwell for that damned screw to be rolling around someday soon.
Try some gloves. Those plastic screws are sharp but with hood gloves you can twist them quite a bit. And yeah it wasn’t the most comfortable position to get a clean camera shot.
Got a question. I changed my filters (they looked new), because the car has a mildew-like smell, and I think its from the ac. BUT even with windows down, I catch a whiff. But not so much when the car is parked. All drains are clear and the car is in a dry garage (even has dehumidifier). Any thoughts? It really takes away from the experience of owning an expensive sports car.
This is a common issue on the car. Google and you will see a ton of things about it. Here is the text from the TSB: #99-01-39-004I: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating) - (Jun 14, 2017) Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating) Models: 2018 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Excluding 2013-2016 Cadillac ATS and 2014-2016 Cadillac CTS (VIN A)) All Equipped with Air Conditioning Attention: This Bulletin also applies to any of the above models that may be Export from North America vehicles. This Bulletin has been revised to add the 2017-2018 Model Years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004H. Condition Some customers may comment about short duration musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions. Cause This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment for a few seconds. There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection. The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module. Correction Enable Afterblow Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration installed prior to any customer comment. Important: If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910). Important: When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas. To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the following procedure: Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation 1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for an extended period of time. (Recommend employing a external DC power source and run fan 15 plus minutes)Note: Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full adherence of the Cooling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces. (Compressor must not operate during entire process). 2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the vehicle. 3. Place protective shop cloths or equivalent over outlet ducts to prevent overspray. 4. Remove the cabin air filter, if equipped. If the cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer. 5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE. 6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool to a compressed air line operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well. Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.Note: The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and should coil slightly at the bottom of a bottle. 8. Use the following method to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.Important: During application the nozzle should be pulsed 3 seconds on then reposition nozzle in the case and repeat 3 seconds until all 4 oz are applied. The blower motor must be operated the entire time as well as 20 minutes after complete application. 9. Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module * If power module is not available for removal between the fan and the evaporator core, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the HVAC module. * Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 3/4 inch or 9/16 inch hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and the blower motor fan. Employ drill depth limiting device less than a 1 inch depth. * With the air distribution vents closed, covered and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the applicator tool into the hole and/or power module opening and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the evaporator core. During this application, the blower motor should be on high, and a “pulsed” spray --- 3 seconds on - 3 seconds off while repositioning the nozzle head to assure all areas of the core face and case is covered. The use of the blower assures material transition through the core as well as into the duct surfaces. * Use GM body plug P/N 15632415 (3/4 inch plug) or 95326304 (9/16 inch plug) and overseal with a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module. 10. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately 10 minutes, with the compressor disabled, HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the evaporator core surface. 11. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged, the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool. 12. Important: Prior to re-engaging the compressor, it is extremely important that the coating be dry. 13. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 14. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 15. Verify proper HVAC system operation. 16. Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle. 17. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary. Parts Information Important: The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core microbial growth. Part Description GM Part Number Cooling Coil Coating (CCC) Kit (with flexible applicator tool and 1 bottle of Cooling Coil Coating) 12346391 (in Canada, use 88865439) Refill for Cooling Coil Coating Applicator Kit (2 x 120 ml (4 oz) Bottles of CCC) 12346390 (In Canada, use 88865440) Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (one per vehicle) 12497910
@@JetFuelOnly Wow, thanks for that. GM TSB, but I assume you're saying it applies to many makes and models, right? This helps in offering more detail about a remedy I tried < a day before I saw this: Opened the air intake in the frunk and removed the filter, sprayed a ton of Lysol into the system while it was blowing on high (compressor off, no heat), and let sit overnight. Next day it seemed considerably better, but may still have some residual smell, so I repeated the process and its now "simmering" overnight again. I'll report back for you and anyone else who may have a similar problem. If I repeat, I'll dry it longer first as recommended. Crazy backstory here: I bought the car via BaT auction a few months back. While driving it home, I spoke by phone with the seller (she called me). During the convo, I asked if the car had been stored in a basement or otherwise damp area, noting a musty or mildew-like smell. She said, "Oh, you mean the crayon smell? That's it's new-car smell; I just LOVE it! In fact, after every drive, I closed the windows tight in an effort to keep that smell as long as possible". Oh my.
![DDG & G Herbo - Nosey [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9Ra0Zc2NlQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 2017 991.2. Awesome. Watched once and it was very easy. I have done before but found this to be the best refresher. Learned about metal clip on front! Thanks so much and no BS, just real simple instruction. Very good photography.
Appreciate it!
Super helpful! My Boxster GTS 4.0 was a breeze and no guessing required.
Great video! Very clear and made this a really easy job! Always love to claw back a few bucks from my mechanic.
Great video! Thank you so much!!!
Very helpful. Thanks
Not THE special tool. But this works nicely. The small pins slide into the slots on either side of the screw head and you can adjust the tool so the pins are close to the center. This gives you leverage to get the screws loosened up.
Link?
Thanks for sharing. One of my clips on the passenger side was missing straight from the factory. It must have been on a Friday over there in Germany when assembling. Lol
Dope video. Definitely liked. Found this while changing my engine filter, which is a pain in the ass 😆
Yeah I need to do a video on the engine filters as well!
Hey thanks for the vid this made it super straight forward. Just did both…that footwell one sucks 😂
usb in the passenger footwell. CarPlay mod?
Just a USB plug that I keep my Garmin Catalyst plugged into as well as my GoPro.
I have a question about the airflow for the filter in the passenger foot well. The filter I bought has the writing in the center but it does have a flow arrow. Should the arrow point toward the passenger side or the driver side?
If they don’t make it obvious I wouldn’t worry about it
Very clear video and easy to do it yourself. Thanks for posting.
That is surprisingly easy. Thanks for sharing 👍
Excellent video. The quarter tip is very helpful. Screwdriver is too long for the inner screw.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate your video. Dr John F
For those under-dash screws, has anyone tried making a tool by rounding off an old (or cheap) flathead screwdriver with a file or dremel to match the radius?
Well I'm going to change my filters since you only had 5000 miles on it. I live in Southern California on the air conditioning is always running so that one's going to be dirty
Helpful and I don't know about the rest of you, but I reinstalled the three plastic screws below the glove box, finger tight not using a quarter, screw driver or other tool. Hope it makes it easier 2 years from now to do it all over again. It also helps to push up on the foam cover when removing those screws to take some of the pressure off them.
Funny I need to replace my clips in frunk cover as well. Excellent tutorial sir.
THANK YOU!
Excellent production.
Narration and video are clear and concise.
I changed mine a few times, the screws are F-ing Pain in the A-- Going to replace mine with metal screws with a socket head.
Well that was easy, thanks man. Just about to do this.
Thank you. Just did this myself in my boxster today and took less than 10 minutes
Thanks. Nice to see it's such an easy job. Just did the first oil change on my GT4 and it was also a breeze except that the oil level wouldn't show until, the next morning. Was kind of longing for a dipstick :)
This was perfect! Worked great on the GT3!!
Can’t get my screws out for the interior filter replacement. I have tried coins, screw drivers, pliers, and a paper clip. I am beginning to think Porsche did this on purpose.
Well that's annoying! Can you squeeze some needle nose pliers under the edge, pinch, and turn? Maybe use a dremel and make a deeper slot. There has to be an actual tool - it's so dumb.
There's TWO? There IS TWO?? LMFAO!
Great job, thanks for doing this!
Great content, thanks for putting this together.
Thank you!
Thanks!
You’re awesome!
@@JetFuelOnly I appreciate your informative videos. Thanks!
My new filter for the 718 Porsche has an arrow for the air flow. Does the arrow face the direction of the passenger or the driver?
As far as I can, tell, air flows from the passenger side towards the driver side, so the arrow should point in that direction
Thank you for the help. Can't wait to sit on the carbon fiber seat sides. LOL
Id like to see the wide shot of you putting that last under-dash screw in. Yes, it sucked(!!!), but looks like you were stretched across the center console in a corkscrew position. Im afraid I’ll crush my controls doing that.
But really, any advice on that last “way up under” screw? I pushed mine in and twisted with my fingers, but no way can I get a quarter or driver in that slot to turn it. Guess Ill be watching the passenger footwell for that damned screw to be rolling around someday soon.
Try some gloves. Those plastic screws are sharp but with hood gloves you can twist them quite a bit. And yeah it wasn’t the most comfortable position to get a clean camera shot.
@@JetFuelOnly I'll bet! And great idea for getting a couple more turns on that back one - thanks!
Got a question. I changed my filters (they looked new), because the car has a mildew-like smell, and I think its from the ac. BUT even with windows down, I catch a whiff. But not so much when the car is parked. All drains are clear and the car is in a dry garage (even has dehumidifier). Any thoughts? It really takes away from the experience of owning an expensive sports car.
This is a common issue on the car. Google and you will see a ton of things about it. Here is the text from the TSB:
#99-01-39-004I: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating) - (Jun 14, 2017)
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models: 2018 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Excluding 2013-2016 Cadillac ATS and 2014-2016 Cadillac CTS (VIN A))
All Equipped with Air Conditioning
Attention: This Bulletin also applies to any of the above models that may be Export from North America vehicles.
This Bulletin has been revised to add the 2017-2018 Model Years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004H.
Condition
Some customers may comment about short duration musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment for a few seconds.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Enable Afterblow
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration installed prior to any customer comment.
Important: If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910).
Important: When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
1. The evaporator core must be dry. This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for an extended period of time. (Recommend employing a external DC power source and run fan 15 plus minutes)Note: Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full adherence of the Cooling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces. (Compressor must not operate during entire process).
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the vehicle.
3. Place protective shop cloths or equivalent over outlet ducts to prevent overspray.
4. Remove the cabin air filter, if equipped. If the cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool to a compressed air line operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi).
7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well. Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.Note: The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and should coil slightly at the bottom of a bottle.
8. Use the following method to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.Important: During application the nozzle should be pulsed 3 seconds on then reposition nozzle in the case and repeat 3 seconds until all 4 oz are applied. The blower motor must be operated the entire time as well as 20 minutes after complete application.
9. Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
* If power module is not available for removal between the fan and the evaporator core, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the HVAC module.
* Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 3/4 inch or 9/16 inch hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and the blower motor fan. Employ drill depth limiting device less than a 1 inch depth.
* With the air distribution vents closed, covered and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the applicator tool into the hole and/or power module opening and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the evaporator core. During this application, the blower motor should be on high, and a “pulsed” spray --- 3 seconds on - 3 seconds off while repositioning the nozzle head to assure all areas of the core face and case is covered. The use of the blower assures material transition through the core as well as into the duct surfaces.
* Use GM body plug P/N 15632415 (3/4 inch plug) or 95326304 (9/16 inch plug) and overseal with a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
10. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately 10 minutes, with the compressor disabled, HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the evaporator core surface.
11. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged, the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
12. Important: Prior to re-engaging the compressor, it is extremely important that the coating be dry.
13. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again.
14. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle.
15. Verify proper HVAC system operation.
16. Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle.
17. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.
Parts Information
Important: The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core microbial growth.
Part Description GM Part Number
Cooling Coil Coating (CCC) Kit (with flexible applicator tool and 1 bottle of Cooling Coil Coating) 12346391 (in Canada, use 88865439)
Refill for Cooling Coil Coating Applicator Kit (2 x 120 ml (4 oz) Bottles of CCC) 12346390 (In Canada, use 88865440)
Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (one per vehicle) 12497910
@@JetFuelOnly Wow, thanks for that. GM TSB, but I assume you're saying it applies to many makes and models, right? This helps in offering more detail about a remedy I tried < a day before I saw this: Opened the air intake in the frunk and removed the filter, sprayed a ton of Lysol into the system while it was blowing on high (compressor off, no heat), and let sit overnight. Next day it seemed considerably better, but may still have some residual smell, so I repeated the process and its now "simmering" overnight again. I'll report back for you and anyone else who may have a similar problem. If I repeat, I'll dry it longer first as recommended.
Crazy backstory here: I bought the car via BaT auction a few months back. While driving it home, I spoke by phone with the seller (she called me). During the convo, I asked if the car had been stored in a basement or otherwise damp area, noting a musty or mildew-like smell. She said, "Oh, you mean the crayon smell? That's it's new-car smell; I just LOVE it! In fact, after every drive, I closed the windows tight in an effort to keep that smell as long as possible".
Oh my.
C8 and V 4 life 🤙🏼
Is it called a V4? That seems like it would be the slow V vs the Blackwing.
YRU here?