Excellent video, and you're an excellent teacher. I borrowed a neighbor's belt sander to sand down the edge of an exterior door I was installing. Having never used a belt sander, I was a little hesitant, so I practiced on a scrap piece of wood to get the hang of it. I was surprised at how much material they can remove quickly, so I'm glad I practiced first.
Thanks George, I have avoided using my belt sander, because of my fears of over sanding. But now that you have demonstrated the proper use, I will give it a try. Thanks again.
Very usefull video ! I am looking to buy one, thanks to RUclips and the makers of all those vids of course i got lots of tips now, esp. that cleaning stick. I didn't knew that.
Good tips. Belt sanders scare me ever since i botched up a job or two.unfortunately I have to use one this week again.I did move to 120 grid from 80 should help, I hope.
Thank you for these tips. I just bought my first belt sander for two projects: refinishing a solid wood door and rejuvenating a kitchen counter top made of maple butcher block. I am looking forward to getting started!
Cool cool. I knew you had to sand with the grain but i watched this video in case there was anything else I didn't know about, and it was worth it for the pencil trick. Thanks :)
hi guys! very useful video! thank you for sharing it with us! Can you please specify the cleaning material of the belt? I really cant find what this is?
Thank you, I was given an old belt sander but don't know anything about it or how to use it.. Your video is just what I needed to get me started. Do you have a video on adjusting and changing sanding belts?
Very good video and tips - thanks. The abrasive cleaning stick was a gem. I assume it works as well on an orbital sander where spots of glue/paint/resin tend to build up?
I have random orbital sander quarter sheet sander and a detail sander. Do I really need a belt sander? Only asking because I have a belt sander that’s broken and just wanted to know if it’s worth replacing. Love your videos.
Hey, I have question. I am trying to sand some tree slices about 15" around and 2-3" thick. The wood is very uneven as it was cut with a chain saw. What grit should I use to sand them down. Some are pretty uneven by an inch or so more.
If there's no tracking adjustment, I'd suggest first flipping the belt around to see if that helps. If not, try a different belt. If that doesn't help, I'd suggest bringing the tool into a repair shop. You might have to replace the rollers or some other part.
I have an art project that I want to try and it involves about a dozen old windows I picked up at a salvage. The frames still have all their glass (which I don't want to break), and the wood is most certainly covered in lead paint. My questions are this: will using a belt sander be too much stress for the glass? All that vibration...can glass stand that? Have you used a belt sander on a window frame before? I'm expecting to have goggles and a mask and gloves through this, and I'll be outside for sure, but I guess I'm just wondering if a belt sander kicks up more/less/the same amount of sawdust as doing it by hand (I don't have a vacuum to connect to it...don't even have the belt sander yet...it will be my next power tool investment). Maybe that's a really dumb question, but it's pretty indicative of just how much of a rookie I am. (Gotta start somewhere, right?) Finally: Is a belt sander even the right power tool to consider for this project (old window frames)? Should I be considering something else? What do you think about the Bosch GOP with Delta sander attachment for a first-timer? Thanks for your help! Erica
There is typically just one adjustment on a belt sander, and that adjusts the tracking of the belt so that it rides in the middle rather than going off to the side. Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Good video, thanks! I have an old 4x24 craftsman belt sander I bought recently. Besides the obvious cleaning out accumulated dust buildup. Could you tell me if there is any other maintenance to be performed? Do I need to lubricate the moving parts or grease the bearings, etc?
+Nick Best There's not a lot of maintenance necessary on a typical belt sander. I'd suggest searching around to see if you can find a manual for your particular model on line. Here is one for a Craftsman 4x24, although I'm not sure that it is your specific one: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/32017559-craftsman-belt+sander-manual In general, I'd empty the dust catcher frequently and used compressed air to clean dust from any moving parts. Also check the cord frequently for cracks or abrasions, and replace as needed. This is a common vulnerable point on belt sanders and other corded portable power tools, as the cord is often under strain and subject to inadvertent contact with the tool which can accelerate wear. Also check the rollers and platten for any excessive or uneven wear, as this can cause belt tracking problems. Replace as needed.
Hi Sonny, Very little down-pressure. Let the weight of the tool apply the down-pressure. If apply too much down-pressure it you will dig the scratches in deeper, making it tougher to clean up. Paul
Hi Will. Sounds like perhaps either you are using a coarse grit that is leaving some deep scratches, or the sander is malfunctioning. It is difficult to diagnose this way, if it is in fact malfunctioning, so if the problem doesn't resolve itself as you progress through your grits, I'd suggest taking it to a service center.
I have a problem. I've watch about 10 videos and came back to yours. I have just purchased my first belt sander a Clarke with a good wide plate and powerful, not variable speed though. I must be doing something wrong as the belts keep snapping at the join.
+Andrew Jackson That is strange. I doubt that your technique is the culprit. Here's what I would look at: - Do your belts have a directional arrow on them, and if so is it possible that you are installing them the wrong direction?- is it possible that the belts are old, or have been exposed to moisture? I would try installing a new belt of a different brand to see if that makes a difference.
Hi everyone! Can you give me an advice how to attach (glue/what kind of glue) a sand paper to create a belt. I live in Romania and I can by the sandpaper by meter. The problem is every time I tried to glue it to create a closed belt, it breaks at that point. Thank you for you answers!!!
Liked the video, but have a couple of questions. I don't know how much the bands are in the US, but here they are about 30 pesos each, just over two dollars. The blocks are 180 pesos each. How many times can these sticks be used, as I have never used one, always used a wire brush? Second question, have had one of these for twenty years, but recently it started to break the belts after just a few minutes use. I tried belts from three different places, and they were all the same. Is it possible to repair the belts, as I have tried duct tape, but it causes a bit of imbalance?
+MadIslowlygoing By "bands" I guess you are referring to the sanding belts. Those 30 peso belts sold in your country are made from paperbacked sandpaper on rolls that are sold in lineal foot. The real sanding belts are more expensive because the backing material is not paper but made of fiber much stronger and durable than paper. They make sander belts by cutting to dimensions and using superglue or rubber cement. I do not understand what you mean by "blocks" which sells at 180 pesos. If you are referring to Abrasive Sanding Belt Cleaner Sticks, that price is a steal. Which hardware sells it? I am curious. An 8 inch cleaning stick sells for about $11 on the net. These sticks can be used until too small to handle, just like a rubber eraser on a pencil. You can try repairing belts by using a much stronger glue than a simple duct tape.
+DAVID DARLING The bands are the ones with a thick material type backing, not the ones like sand paper as you thought, and they are cheap as hell here. All I wanted to know was how many times can you clean these using the cleaning stick, which in Spanish is called a block, just to confuse people. Anyway, the answer you gave shows me that it is cheaper to clean, despite the cheap cost of the belts here. As for trying to fix them, I tried all sorts, the duct tape just stretched, never came off, but useless for this. Super glue broke when you start the machine, and nothing else I tried worked. The problem was the machine could not be aligned correctly, and kept breaking the belts, got a new one and they are fine, I'll just use the broken belts for general cleaning by hand. Thanks for your time.
+MadIslowlygoing .. Nobody can answer your question about "how many times" regarding cleaning sticks. Depends on the amount of material sanded, the belt grit, how dirty the belts are, how often you clean them, how sloppy (glue, etc) you are with your woodworking, and more. Your own experimentation is the only thing that can provide an answer.
good video, I use the pencil tip quite often when sanding or planing however I would never use a belt sander on veneered plywood.. solid wood yes. plywood never.
I have a question. I can do an excellent job with a belt sander, untill i get to higher (smoother) grits than p120. After that i start getting dimples horseshoe marks and score. The solution ive been using is just to orbital sand past this point. But why on earth can i do it perfectly with 120 belts and coarser, but as soon as i go 180 i cant. V confusing.
That's a great question. I don't know why you would have these marks with 180 but not 120. When I do flatten a glue-up using a belt sander, I generally do as you described. I sand using 80 grit and maybe 120 grit, then I switch to a ROS. So, essentially I use the belt sander to flatten, and the ROS to make smooth. Paul Woodworkers Guild of America
We are glad you found this video helpful! Remember to check video (dot) wwgoa (dot) com today to get unlimited access to hundreds of premium woodworking videos! Happy woodworking :)
Good video used a belt sander for years. but these cleaning sticks make the belt look good and that is all sanding time is increased as if you had done nothing. I find this to be a placebo. If you pay for the time it's not worth it get a new belt.
Hi Robert. It depends what you want to do, and how fast you want to do it. For most hobbyist woodworkers I would speculate that the answer to your question is 'no'. For most hobbyists an expensive belt/drum sander is a great luxury, but not a necessity. But if you have production requirements, and being efficient and competitive is important to your woodworking business, then the answer might be 'yes'. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hello. Great question. Maybe they don't want a tool that has a default path toward the user, for safety reasons. But, maybe you have a good product suggestion for some tool company. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Not sure that a user's natural inclination is to push forward. I find as far as hand saws are concerned I prefer pull saws. I find them much easier to start a cut and angle control more precise. Maybe that is just me...
Hi, I just asked Jack Houweling before watching your 2011 video on Belt Sanding tips, 13 minutes ago Dec.06/016. Maybe you can answer this Question. I have no room for a Drum sander, I need a Light weight large portable, reliable belt sander for Dinning table top building size sanding jobs. Since 2011, what would you recommend NOW as a good belt sander for a 70 year old with Arthritis pain ? Check my question to Jack's comments to all who reads his Questions . Hoping someone has a good answer. Thanks Gary W. S.
Hi Gary. The good news is that there are lots of nice hand held belt sanders to choose from these days. I don't have a specific recommendation for you since what is important to you are the ergonomics that relate to your specific situation, and of course it has to fit within your budget. I'd suggest that you go to a home center that has lots of models on display, and see which ones feel lightest and most balanced.
Gary, if your arthritis is really bad, there are two things to consider. 1) A wide belt like the 4" demonstrated here may not be best because the more surface area that is in contact with the wood, the more the sander will 'pull'. 2) You may want to start with as fine as a grit as is practical for the same reason as mentioned in item #1. A courser belt will have more 'pull' than a finer one. I've seen Jack banging away with his bare hands on some of his projects and it absolutely sends shivers up my spine!
Really helpful tips, especially the pencil mark and cleaning sticks, many thanks
Very informative and well presented video. Just bought a belt sander to prep deck for restaining.
I love the pencil trick and the cleaning stick use, both new to me and valuable. Thank you.
Excellent video. Extremely clear and very helpful tips. I had no idea abrasive cleaning sticks existed, so I’m really pleased I watched. Thanks!
Excellent video, and you're an excellent teacher. I borrowed a neighbor's belt sander to sand down the edge of an exterior door I was installing. Having never used a belt sander, I was a little hesitant, so I practiced on a scrap piece of wood to get the hang of it. I was surprised at how much material they can remove quickly, so I'm glad I practiced first.
Thanks George, I have avoided using my belt sander, because of my fears of over sanding. But now that you have demonstrated the proper use, I will give it a try. Thanks again.
Great video. Many good tips
Very impressive presentation, your a great teacher. Thanks
Great video. I'm still shopping around for a belt sander. You probably just saved me a bunch of time and money.
Belt sander master...awesome video
love the last tip! never heard of the cleaning stick before, getting on to google right now. thanks
Very usefull video ! I am looking to buy one, thanks to RUclips and the makers of all those vids of course i got lots of tips now, esp. that cleaning stick. I didn't knew that.
Good tips. Belt sanders scare me ever since i botched up a job or two.unfortunately I have to use one this week again.I did move to 120 grid from 80 should help, I hope.
Love this sander
Thank you for these tips. I just bought my first belt sander for two projects: refinishing a solid wood door and rejuvenating a kitchen counter top made of maple butcher block. I am looking forward to getting started!
Very well explained, thank you!
Cool cool. I knew you had to sand with the grain but i watched this video in case there was anything else I didn't know about, and it was worth it for the pencil trick. Thanks :)
Cool, thanks.
Thank you for the nice video.That belt cleaner trick was great.
Thank
Really good explanation how to operate sander properly. Thanks!
hi guys! very useful video! thank you for sharing it with us!
Can you please specify the cleaning material of the belt? I really cant find what this is?
This video is great! Thanks man
Great video. Thank-You very much.
Thanks very much for the tips! Just bought one and with your helpful video, hopefully I can get the hang of it :)
Excellent video, excellent tips. Thanks!
Thank you sir!
thank you
My belt sander is my primary tool - I love so much I got a few - lol Thx for the great video
Excellent video, thanks so much!
Have to be getting one of those cleaning sticks now I've seen how good they work.
Great video and tips. Thank you
Awesome video, thank you!
Thank you, I was given an old belt sander but don't know anything about it or how to use it.. Your video is just what I needed to get me started. Do you have a video on adjusting and changing sanding belts?
Thanks for showing something that I didn't not no
Very helpful ☺☺☺
very very good
Good tips, trying to figure out how to use a belt sander as I've never had one. I'd never heard of the abrasive cleaning sticks, good to know!
Dried tube of silicone or rtv works as well so dont throw them out. And better than all if them is the little pink erasers
@@bihgolphatdictergud746 Thanks for the tip!
Very good video and tips - thanks. The abrasive cleaning stick was a gem. I assume it works as well on an orbital sander where spots of glue/paint/resin tend to build up?
The cleaner is called an abrasive cleaning stick. They’re generally made of out crepe.
Where would I purchase abrasion cleaning stick... please don’t say HD. 😂
@@irishrider7324 Rockler. Harbor Freight.
Excellent demo!!
I'm not scared anymore. Thanks for a great video.
thanks for the tips i gotta use this tomarrow
I have random orbital sander quarter sheet sander and a detail sander. Do I really need a belt sander? Only asking because I have a belt sander that’s broken and just wanted to know if it’s worth replacing. Love your videos.
Great tips thanks
Great video for a novice
Great info. Thankyou much
Good advice. Thank You!
great video.
Hey, I have question. I am trying to sand some tree slices about 15" around and 2-3" thick. The wood is very uneven as it was cut with a chain saw. What grit should I use to sand them down. Some are pretty uneven by an inch or so more.
Thankyou
You're welcome
Would it work on steel and can i use winding stick on wood on metal
Great- thank you!
Awesome! Thank you.
Thank you! What do do when the paper keeps running off track towards the sander opposite of the side it is interested? There’s no adjustment knob.
If there's no tracking adjustment, I'd suggest first flipping the belt around to see if that helps. If not, try a different belt. If that doesn't help, I'd suggest bringing the tool into a repair shop. You might have to replace the rollers or some other part.
I have an art project that I want to try and it involves about a dozen old windows I picked up at a salvage. The frames still have all their glass (which I don't want to break), and the wood is most certainly covered in lead paint.
My questions are this: will using a belt sander be too much stress for the glass? All that vibration...can glass stand that? Have you used a belt sander on a window frame before?
I'm expecting to have goggles and a mask and gloves through this, and I'll be outside for sure, but I guess I'm just wondering if a belt sander kicks up more/less/the same amount of sawdust as doing it by hand (I don't have a vacuum to connect to it...don't even have the belt sander yet...it will be my next power tool investment). Maybe that's a really dumb question, but it's pretty indicative of just how much of a rookie I am. (Gotta start somewhere, right?)
Finally: Is a belt sander even the right power tool to consider for this project (old window frames)? Should I be considering something else? What do you think about the Bosch GOP with Delta sander attachment for a first-timer?
Thanks for your help!
Erica
A Festool rotex 90 would be really good for that project, alternatively a multitool with a delta head would be a good choice.
Some good tips. I’d like to see how you adjust the belt in the sander. I am noticing my sander is not sanding evenly across its width
There is typically just one adjustment on a belt sander, and that adjusts the tracking of the belt so that it rides in the middle rather than going off to the side.
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
What's the difference between shank, axial, arbor, rod, spindle and mandrel?
Good video, thanks! I have an old 4x24 craftsman belt sander I bought recently. Besides the obvious cleaning out accumulated dust buildup. Could you tell me if there is any other maintenance to be performed? Do I need to lubricate the moving parts or grease the bearings, etc?
+Nick Best There's not a lot of maintenance necessary on a typical belt sander. I'd suggest searching around to see if you can find a manual for your particular model on line. Here is one for a Craftsman 4x24, although I'm not sure that it is your specific one: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/32017559-craftsman-belt+sander-manual
In general, I'd empty the dust catcher frequently and used compressed air to clean dust from any moving parts. Also check the cord frequently for cracks or abrasions, and replace as needed. This is a common vulnerable point on belt sanders and other corded portable power tools, as the cord is often under strain and subject to inadvertent contact with the tool which can accelerate wear. Also check the rollers and platten for any excessive or uneven wear, as this can cause belt tracking problems. Replace as needed.
When you are sanding how much pressure are you applying?
Hi Sonny,
Very little down-pressure. Let the weight of the tool apply the down-pressure. If apply too much down-pressure it you will dig the scratches in deeper, making it tougher to clean up.
Paul
You're very welcome! If you would like to learn more about WWGOA and our premium video channel please visit video(dot)wwgoa(dot)com.
What is the difference between a Vibrating sander belt sander
Yes, belt sanders can be used upside down.
is that a festool dust collection connected to a bosch?
+TK TK Yes, it sure is! Good eye!
That's it, I'm getting one!
Thanks for the tip, I use 220 most of the time, takes me longer, but I normally won't burn through.
I am sanding a floor or 2x6 pine with a hitachi 3x21 and I am getting a lot of cut lines in the wood. What would cause this?
Hi Will. Sounds like perhaps either you are using a coarse grit that is leaving some deep scratches, or the sander is malfunctioning. It is difficult to diagnose this way, if it is in fact malfunctioning, so if the problem doesn't resolve itself as you progress through your grits, I'd suggest taking it to a service center.
I have a problem. I've watch about 10 videos and came back to yours. I have just purchased my first belt sander a Clarke with a good wide plate and powerful, not variable speed though. I must be doing something wrong as the belts keep snapping at the join.
+Andrew Jackson That is strange. I doubt that your technique is the culprit. Here's what I would look at:
- Do your belts have a directional arrow on them, and if so is it possible that you are installing them the wrong direction?- is it possible that the belts are old, or have been exposed to moisture? I would try installing a new belt of a different brand to see if that makes a difference.
Hi everyone! Can you give me an advice how to attach (glue/what kind of glue) a sand paper to create a belt. I live in Romania and I can by the sandpaper by meter. The problem is every time I tried to glue it to create a closed belt, it breaks at that point. Thank you for you answers!!!
477valder gorilla glue/Krazy glue
Liked the video, but have a couple of questions. I don't know how much the bands are in the US, but here they are about 30 pesos each, just over two dollars. The blocks are 180 pesos each. How many times can these sticks be used, as I have never used one, always used a wire brush? Second question, have had one of these for twenty years, but recently it started to break the belts after just a few minutes use. I tried belts from three different places, and they were all the same. Is it possible to repair the belts, as I have tried duct tape, but it causes a bit of imbalance?
+MadIslowlygoing By "bands" I guess you are referring to the sanding belts. Those 30 peso belts sold in your country are made from paperbacked sandpaper on rolls that are sold in lineal foot. The real sanding belts are more expensive because the backing material is not paper but made of fiber much stronger and durable than paper. They make sander belts by cutting to dimensions and using superglue or rubber cement. I do not understand what you mean by "blocks" which sells at 180 pesos. If you are referring to Abrasive Sanding Belt Cleaner Sticks, that price is a steal. Which hardware sells it? I am curious. An 8 inch cleaning stick sells for about $11 on the net. These sticks can be used until too small to handle, just like a rubber eraser on a pencil. You can try repairing belts by using a much stronger glue than a simple duct tape.
+DAVID DARLING The bands are the ones with a thick material type backing, not the ones like sand paper as you thought, and they are cheap as hell here. All I wanted to know was how many times can you clean these using the cleaning stick, which in Spanish is called a block, just to confuse people. Anyway, the answer you gave shows me that it is cheaper to clean, despite the cheap cost of the belts here. As for trying to fix them, I tried all sorts, the duct tape just stretched, never came off, but useless for this. Super glue broke when you start the machine, and nothing else I tried worked. The problem was the machine could not be aligned correctly, and kept breaking the belts, got a new one and they are fine, I'll just use the broken belts for general cleaning by hand. Thanks for your time.
+MadIslowlygoing .. Nobody can answer your question about "how many times" regarding cleaning sticks. Depends on the amount of material sanded, the belt grit, how dirty the belts are, how often you clean them, how sloppy (glue, etc) you are with your woodworking, and more. Your own experimentation is the only thing that can provide an answer.
good video, I use the pencil tip quite often when sanding or planing however I would never use a belt sander on veneered plywood.. solid wood yes. plywood never.
Moldings
Thank you for the great comment. Happy woodworking!
I have a question. I can do an excellent job with a belt sander, untill i get to higher (smoother) grits than p120. After that i start getting dimples horseshoe marks and score. The solution ive been using is just to orbital sand past this point. But why on earth can i do it perfectly with 120 belts and coarser, but as soon as i go 180 i cant. V confusing.
That's a great question. I don't know why you would have these marks with 180 but not 120. When I do flatten a glue-up using a belt sander, I generally do as you described. I sand using 80 grit and maybe 120 grit, then I switch to a ROS. So, essentially I use the belt sander to flatten, and the ROS to make smooth.
Paul
Woodworkers Guild of America
We are glad you found this video helpful! Remember to check video (dot) wwgoa (dot) com today to get unlimited access to hundreds of premium woodworking videos! Happy woodworking :)
please tell me the model
+Pneuma This is a Bosch 1276D. Unfortunately this sander has been discontinued.
Good video used a belt sander for years. but these cleaning sticks make the belt look good and that is all sanding time is increased as if you had done nothing. I find this to be a placebo. If you pay for the time it's not worth it get a new belt.
Question: does one need an expensive belt sander ?
Hi Robert. It depends what you want to do, and how fast you want to do it. For most hobbyist woodworkers I would speculate that the answer to your question is 'no'. For most hobbyists an expensive belt/drum sander is a great luxury, but not a necessity. But if you have production requirements, and being efficient and competitive is important to your woodworking business, then the answer might be 'yes'. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thanks for answering, I appreciate it. And you answered my question very well too.
8:17 WOW! Wow man look at it come outta there. And i was using a scratchy pad. 2 belts wasted Atleast it isnt 20.
I use an old rubber shoe as a cleaning stick for my belt
Why didn't they design the sander to roll backward to counter the natural motion of a user's pushing forward?
Hello. Great question. Maybe they don't want a tool that has a default path toward the user, for safety reasons. But, maybe you have a good product suggestion for some tool company.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Not sure that a user's natural inclination is to push forward.
I find as far as hand saws are concerned I prefer pull saws. I find them much easier to start a cut and angle control more precise.
Maybe that is just me...
Hi, I just asked Jack Houweling before watching your 2011 video on Belt Sanding tips, 13 minutes ago Dec.06/016. Maybe you can answer this Question. I have no room for a Drum sander, I need a Light weight large portable, reliable belt sander for Dinning table top building size sanding jobs. Since 2011, what would you recommend NOW as a good belt sander for a 70 year old with Arthritis pain ? Check my question to Jack's comments to all who reads his Questions . Hoping someone has a good answer. Thanks Gary W. S.
Hi Gary. The good news is that there are lots of nice hand held belt sanders to choose from these days. I don't have a specific recommendation for you since what is important to you are the ergonomics that relate to your specific situation, and of course it has to fit within your budget. I'd suggest that you go to a home center that has lots of models on display, and see which ones feel lightest and most balanced.
Gary, if your arthritis is really bad, there are two things to consider. 1) A wide belt like the 4" demonstrated here may not be best because the more surface area that is in contact with the wood, the more the sander will 'pull'. 2) You may want to start with as fine as a grit as is practical for the same reason as mentioned in item #1. A courser belt will have more 'pull' than a finer one.
I've seen Jack banging away with his bare hands on some of his projects and it absolutely sends shivers up my spine!
I prefer to build with stodoys.
You didn’t show how to change the belt of work the tensioner to keep belt on.
I put my wrist on a belt sander once
ouch
It was only painful for the month, I haven't touched one since.
Or you could just not make that cabinet flush at the bottom and never have to worry about doing this 😉
I've wasted thousands of dollars on belts. Didn't know you could clean the belts😟
If it takes that long to sand using a belt sander, why not just use a large RO sander?
Edward Reno
I suppose that it doesn't sand cross grain.
Edward Reno belt sanders are much faster than orbital sanders... also the sand in in one direction. So there are two differences right there
Who else is here because you overestimated your belt standing skills?
☆☆☆☆☆
This title is too vague. Please edit it. Teaching on point. Could easily drop 2 minutes, if you write out key points cut out some of the sanding ;)
Awesome solutions for wooden project is woodprix.
Great tips thank you