I hate to repeat myself BUT this is why Eric O. and this channel is my favorite on RUclips. What mechanic would have checked that outlet hose and one way exhaust check valve AFTER they found the problem with the faulty pump??? I would have got the phone call, I can hear it now, that my entire pump assembly was bad and needed to be replaced only to drive my vehicle for the next week to have my code trip back on because the ENTIRE PROBLEM was not diagnosis. Eric O. had the insight to check the outlet house for stiffness and to take 5 seconds to examine the one way check valve. Keep doing the great job you do Eric O. btw. kewl to see your helper Hannah back in the shop.
the check valves on majority of vehicles were common issues also, dirty and hang open or stick shut. checking the line while handling it is just common sense, which most lack now days
Eric due to your professionalism I was able to diagnose and fix my 2001 blazer's po410 that had been dogging me for years! Replaced the whole pump system, valves, solenoids, relocate upgraded intake assembly..the whole deal. Worked fine for a week then an exhaust check valve let loose... melted what i thought was only the fresh air discharge T.....NOT it waxed the brand new pump tooo!! melted the plastic impeller, locking it in place. All good now. If you ever come down to CT I owe you a beer or two!
I literally(a couple hours ago) just did a secondary air pump, solenoid valve, and air shut off (diverter) valve replacement on my 2001 S-10 4.3L. Parts were around $200 for everything, and it works perfect now. Using my Autoenginuity software that supports bi-directional controls, I turned on the AIR system when the truck went into closed loop, and both bank O2 sensors flatlined (went to zero volts), so I know it is fixed. The kit I ordered came with the pump, new fresh air intake tube with what looks like some type of filter on the end of it rather than just an open hose pipe, and a new connector harness for the solenoid valve (which I didn't use). The solenoid valve checked good, as well as the diverter valve, but I knew because I had a check valve leaking that goes to the exhaust manifold that the components had probably gotten a lot of water/condensation in them, so I decided to replace all of it while I was down there under the vehicle. Shops want upwards of about $700+ to do this type of repair, which is just ridiculous! Thank you for the videos you post!! I follow your channel daily, and learn something new every day. Keep up the good work!
I put a new pump in my s10 yesterday. No power. I checked that fuse you pulled next to the battery. It's a 30 amp and it's blown. Back to the game this morning. I'll figure it out. I've been driving my S10 for 21 years! Bought it brand new. This will be my last time inspecting it in NY. New truck time. Thanks for the help guy.
Ugh. I have a 2001 S10 and I went through this last year. Ended my relationship with the shop I had been taking it to. I was up against the wall inspection wise because the first shop never diagnosed the problem thoroughly in the first place and I had to keep coming back every 3-4 weeks when the money light came back on. I tried replacing all the O2 sensors (which were original) to get it to complete the catalyst monitor before the P0410 would set so I could pass inspection and deal with the problem after but it absolutely would not run the catalyst test. I finally gave up and took it to the dealer and they replaced the whole system, which I feel a little better about now having watched this video. Then I pick the truck up and drive it 10 minutes to put gas in it never getting anywhere near 55 mph and go home and the catalyst monitor completed along with everything but the secondary air. Thanks a lot, truck. Thanks a lot.
Well done Eric! I’ve been tackling the exact problem on my 2001 S10 4.3L. Never know if the pump is really filled with water. Removed the pump off mine and that thing had lots of water filled that I dumped out. You’re sure right about the water intrusion. It’s been one of the most toughest things I’ve tackled in my experience and now I’ve got about everything to replace on the system. Bypass valve is holding up somehow and just replacing everything else but will test the bypass valve once more. Other than that thanks for the video. You’re the man!
just watched this video because I came across the A.I.R pump while working near it on something else and noticed one of the hose ports was busted. I had no idea what it even was or it's function until I came across this video. I super glued it back together and reinstalled it and it's holding up. I noticed the hardware store clamps on your vehicle aren't factory so I'm thinking that wasn't the first time the A.I.R pump has been worked on. Being six years late to the chat I'm not expecting a reply or looking for one but stranger things have happened. Thanks for the video!
I have a 99 S10 2.2LT 5-speed stick, have been having issues with water in the fuel filter here in S. Florida, but also concerned about the whole air pump set-up too VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO, thanks
DIY style for the team. Thanks Mr. O. I've always wondered what that roar was when I was out scraping the windshield in the morning. I though air pumps went out in the 80's. Nope. Thanks for the video!
I'm getting ready to deal with secondary air prob. The air pump works fine but second air code keeps setting. This video will help a lot. Yes I am doing DIY. In addition I'll be rebuilding AC system, putting in new water pump, replacing all oil cooler lines, radiator, radiator hoses, and smog check valves. I may just replace all the stuff you showed in this video except for pump. The air pump works.
Thanks Eric! As a "layin on the ground" DIY Guy I appreciate you going old school for us! The circuit breaker tool was sweet too. I had an issue with my old Dakota and it took four mini 15 amp fuses before I found the shorted harness wire. Pushing a breaker button would be so much quicker and easier...
Travelingman 1997 lol yet Toyota uses uses the same shit system even today on their Tundra pick us. The only difference is that Toyota charges a couple grand for a new air injection pump. GM/AC Delco charges about$100 for the exact same pump with the exact same lifespan (quality).
hochhaul : But isn't the Tundra parts made in the US, and the Chev parts are made in China or Mexico? Eric often shows his genuine Tundra parts are US made, its a total ironic situation. Buy an Asian vehicle and get US parts, or buy a US vehicle and get Asian parts.
What an awesome video in regards to this problem. Simply the best video about this problem. I have the same year and engine S10. My lights were coming on as well. Glad I live in Florida without the inspection hassles. Just installed a header on the S10. What an improvement and performance enhancer.
Hi there I have the same truck 2.2L you say installed headers, do you remove the check valve? Do you did anything to your ecu? That way you don’t have checking engine light on
I now have the 4.3 version of this. It looks like it's all the same except two exhaust check valves instead of one. Thanks for explaining how it works and what it's for.
Great video Eric and you can't get much more thorough in your diagnosis. I know your customers are happy b/c they get an accurate quote from one phone call vs. multiple from incomplete diagnosis. That's what separates the great shops from the others. Thanks for the videos man!
I like your style. Well explained, a little humor and informative. It's nice to see Hanna is still there to help because getting up off the floor 20 times for tools sucks!
I looked on Rockauto, doesn't appear that your explorer has an air pump.. be happy. they're a pain in the ass.. I keep getting a pending code P0410 in my '97 Trans Am for my air pump, yet it functions properly, none of the hoses are clogged or bad, and i replaced both check valves.
Great Video. Thorough check of the A.I.R. system! The Colorado's we had were equipped with the electric air pump located on the driver's side. Ours were new enough that the system still worked when I retired from there in 2016, I'm sure it's only a matter of time for that one to give trouble! Sometimes with a bi-directional scan tool/android/whatever, you can test the replacement parts and see "how it works." THAT'S the learning curve/best part! Looking forward to part 2.
Only one little thing, with the solenoid valve. They don't hold vacuum on the "load" side, otherwise the diaphragm in the vacuum operated device would never return. Test again with the mityvac on the engine side! Great video, amazing how many failed components in one subsystem!
South Main Auto Repair One of my cars is a BMW E46 that has the exhaust tuning flap on one of the tailpipes. The stub on the vacuum actuator broke off so dirt and water got sucked in to the vacuum reservoir and blocked the solenoid valve!
laying on the ground Eric just like the rest of us DIYers, when I was young lad I would be the one handing the tools to my dad. hope you get the repair I'd like to see the truck back on the road.
I know this is an old video but I had to comment because I just got an s10 like this same drive line for a winter and daily driver and I'm just getting into this exact issue so again great video very thorough. I was about to just buy the air pump and the o2 sensors and the I'd have been dealing with this again in a year or 2 I'm sure. Again great video
I guess the water came from the exhaust due to the bad check valve. In the old days a pipe from the exhaust ran to a bimetallic spring that would open the choke as the engine warmed up. The housing for the bimetallic spring would fill up with water.
DIY stuff is a workout system! I usually have the vehicle up on jack stands with scrap carpet serving as the creeper. Up and down, in and out, up and down, in and out, up and down, in and out; grabbin' tools, cycling the ignition, distracted by phone calls and pestering family members. Then, there's the curious neighbors... If it's a multi-day project, the core muscles are sore as hell on day two. Some people pay for a gym membership, DYI gets me in shape and pays me!
Do you guys know if we can bypass the solenoid and connect the suction line directly to the pump? I checked my dad's 01 Blazer and everything seems to work but am not sure about the solenoid. It needs to pass smog but the only sensor not ready is the AIR. We need them all ready green in California. All the components work am just not sure if the solenoid works though. Any thoughts? Thanks and great video
This is one of the best video's I've seen on youtube. Your tutorial of all the important details is A+, you Sir are an excellent teacher and I thank you for the video. Subscibed √
Ok Eric,If People Think Thats Bad,Thats acutally a walk in the park.I Had 2004 Junk BMW 325i That Gave Me Secondary air injection code p0411 that drove me crazy,for a while. # 1 It had very low power when driving,#2 it had the air injection code.So I Tested the air pump,which was bad and had water in it too,also the solonoid was not working either,not allowing Vaccum to the Diverter valve going to the cylinder head,and the diverter valve was plugged solid,not allowing air to go into the head,which Destroyed The Air pump. But Remember this Vehicle had very little power,So I Also Tested and did a back pressure test on the Cat,and it was also plugged solid,so I knew The Cat Converter Needed to replaced too.Then I Removed The Upstream 02 sensor and drove the car up the block,and it had plenty of power once again.So I Figured I would do the Entire check on the car and tell the customer everything that was wrong with it,and do it all at once.And now mind you I was not able to look at the 02 sensor to go lean when Air pump was commanded on,cause the whole system was shot.Anyway I quoted the Customer a huge price to fix the whole system,Cat Converter,Air pump,Solonoid,Diverter Valve,Basically The Whole 9 Yards.BOY WAS I WRONG AFTER I REPLACED ALL THAT.HOWEVER ALL THE SECONDARY AIR PUMP STUFF WAS WORKING FINE,BUT WHEN I WENT INTO DATA STREAM TO LOOK AT LEAN FROM THE 02 SENSOR,IT WOULD DROP LEAN,BUT NOT LEAN ENOUGH,SOMEHOW IT WAS NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH AIRFLOW INTO THE EXHAUST,AT COLD START,WHEN THE PCM COMMANDED IT TO. AFTER APPROX 1 WEEK OR SO OF FIGHTING IT,NOW I WAS SERIOUSLY PISSED OFF,SCREAMING AND THROWING MY TOOLS ACROSS THE SHOP,THE CUSTOMER WAS ACTUALLY PRETTY NICE,I COULDNT BELIEVE IT,BUT I TAKE THIS KIND OF STUFF TO HEART,AND I SERIOUSLY TRY TO KEEP A MISDIAGNOSIS,TO VERY VERY BARE MINIMUM. DO YOU KNOW WHY ALL THOSE COMPONETS WENT BAD,CAN YOU GUESS BROTHER????? AFTER CHECKING WITH ALL MY BMW FRIENDS AND PULLING ALL THE RESOURCES I COULD TO HELP ME,NO ONE HAD AN ANSWER FOR ME,EVEN MY FRIENDS AT THE BMW DEALERSHIP,HAD NEVER SEEN THIS.OF COURSE THIS PIECE OF CRAP HAD TO FALL IN MY LAP.WELL YES I FOUND IT.IT WAS A PARTIALLY PLUGGED AIR INJECTION PORT IN THE CYLINDER HEAD.JUNK BMW'S THESE DESIGNERS ARE TOTAL IDIOTS.YEAH I FOUND IT ALRIGHT $4500 DOLLARS LATER,TRY THAT ONE ON FOR SIZE BROTHER,LOL
Russell David I feel your pain LOL, I few yrs ago my son found an 03 325i E46 sedan, 150k looked and ran like new, perfect interior, not a mark on the undercarriage for a good price. Except for Volkswagen I didn't have much experience with German cars but it was so nice we bought it anyway! First mistake. After 10-11k the ck eng lite camouflage on with codes for emissions(I don't remember which) and I was so sorry we bought it. I've never seen anything so over engineered and complicated as the intake manifold, all the related parts and miles of hose that had to be removed and repaired. A complete nightmare and learning experience. It is the first and last BMW or Mercedes that I'll allow in the family unless it's under warranty. Oh yeah, if the fuel pump goes you need to buy the entire tank assembly for $2k from BMW as the pump or any other internals aren't serviceable separately. Great design..
James Zivny,Yeah I Know all about That Replacing The Fuel TANK with the pump,Thats Because the e46 has what they call a SULEV MOTOR. YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP SEPERATELY.Its a absolute Junk Design.You made a good move to get rid of that car,LOL
Just found your channel a few days ago. Love your videos man! I was just curious, is that a Cox Jeep on the counter in your office? Thanks again for taking the time to make your great videos!
the service manual has a longer hose for the intake of the pump so water will not enter into the pump drive motor or into the valve to the vacuum that opens due to vacuum that allows air to feed into the exhaust System so the oxygen sensors read a correct voltage at start up or the CPM will kick the light for secondary air injection failure.
@19:20, "Not often do you see 14 year old vehicles that are still worth pursuing a repair on." How long should you keep a vehicle before it becomes not worth repairing? Thumbs up video. Excellent diagnostics.
That comment is based on the area of the country he lives in. The salt on the roads usually rots the frame and body of the vehicle and it no longer is worth repairing.
Talleddie81, there may be more to it than that. Separate from the engine and transmission (the most expensive components), a vehicle is made up of at least a dozen major independent systems that each have a service life. For example, steering, a/c, cooling, suspension, computer, electrical, starting, wheel bearings, emissions/evap, catalytic converter, exhaust, fuel, etc. At some point the average service life of each of these systems comes to an end near the same time. This video seems like a good example of an air pump system in which every part has reached end of life. As an owner you have to ask yourself, what other systems may be close to end of life and how accessible are the new parts. Should this S-10 vehicle owner go for a newer vehicle now instead of spending more $ today on parts, tires, etc.
You are correct, however, in the salt belt when the frame rots away and is no longer safe, it really doesn't matter what condition the rest of the components are in. No one is replacing a frame.
Eric, I have a 1998 chevy S10, replaced two air pumps that filled with water,the original pump when I bought truck 8 years ago and the second a year later . I moved the air inlet hose and placed it up near battery so it doesn`t suck in water. Problem solved ever since.
Very thorough videos, you’ve got a new subscriber. I’m a euro guy and just recently picked up a 2000 s10, same combo as the video. The truck sounds like the jet engine as you drive on cold start. Is that normal for these s10’s?
I have that code haven't been under truck yet but my luck I probably need everything but video was a huge help thanx with this truck I'm close to being a professional mechanic because I've been fixing everything myself
There ought to be a rating on every car sold that indicates difficulty of maintenance and repair (how much of a pain in the a$$ a car is to work on). The placement of the fuse box would definitely knock down that score, and that's definitely not the worst I've seen on SMA. Engineers at desks should have some kind of incentive to consider the mechanics and techs who have to deal with that crap!
Eric, I've had this problem the last three times I've run through emissions and bought new pumps each time, with it failing a few months later. If I went to the trouble of simply mounting the pump higher than the exhaust with a proper wiring extension and longer hoses, do you think this would cure it? The 4.3 runs great and only has 110K on it and I'm getting tired of this 'cascading' fault.
Eric i have purchased a 2002 s10 2.2 flex fuel. The engine was gone and no fuel lines from pump. I have installed another engine but am not sure what fuel lines go where it has a dual inlet fuel filter and single out is this a regulator style filter and is the 2.2 flex fuel a returnless rail system. There is also a line above the filter that goes to front but seems like its maybe vapor. Just seeking info on this particular fuel system
I have a 2000 Buick with this problem. I know its a different animal, but within the same species...I learn a lot about how to track down this problem.
If I remember correctly on Mercedes older ones if you got a bad check valve it could ruin the pump. So you changed the pump and it could comeback and hunt you if you did not have a good working check valve.
Hey Eric that's not fair! DIYers don't have a beautiful Hannah assistant to hand them tools! You have to do at least a hundred crunches a day and get your own tools xD
500.00 for repair, 30,000 for new truck, no brainer. Heck that truck is 5 years newer then mine. Basically straight off the lot. Most mechanics drive POS, but some drive nice Tundra's :)
Eric i have an 2001 Jimmy that had the Air pump issue when i got under the truck i could see two things 1.) the check valve closest to the air pump had a broken nipple left still in one of the hoses, and 2. the lowest hose on the pump had what looked like a hole had been drilled in that hose! do you suppose someone did that so moister/water could drain from the system ? though never saw any evidence of water in the check valve! my fix has remained good for the last 6 years! any thoughts? should i recheck for any water in system?
Another useless system designed to pump consumer dollars right into GM's bank account. Par for the course. Thanks for shooting this one. I never bothered to learn how these work, since most older vehicles are exempt where I live, and thus, the system gets tossed in the trash. Good to know for future reference, in case I get a newer one. :)
Smitty Smithsonite lol, GM AC Delco charges less than $100 for a new air injection pump. Toyota charges over $2000 for the EXACT same pump. And then there's Ford and their shit timing chains that fail well before 100k miles and will run you well over $1k a pop.
Eric just said in the vid - 23:00 - kit is $370+ . All modern cars are shit - ain't just GM. I pick on them more, because they porked me out of $30k for my POS '07 Silverado. Ain't even at 91k miles, and my cam bearings are on their way out. Been a long list of failures on that turd ...
Smitty Smithsonite Buying any brand of vehicle made the same year they're filing for bankruptcy is a terrible. idea. AC Delco #219-505 runs $165 and is made in USA. This exact same part is popular in the Toyota Tundra/4-Runner crowd because the Genuine Toyota version fails just as often yet costs over $1000. One guy was told by a Toyota engineer that the pump would cost $1600: www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/133435-secondary-air-injection-system-pump/#/topics/133435 (post #4)
They weren't filing for bankruptcy - at least not in the public's eye - at the time I signed the papers. Had the Ford dealer been open Sundays, I'd be driving an '07 F150 today. GM wasn't my first choice, even back then ... although I preferred GM stuff from the 50's - early 90's at the time. No surprise GM parts fit 'Yotas - guess who Toyota models their operations after? They've copied nearly every aspect of GM's operations, except that they've made their service info not so much of a big secret as GM has, especially when it comes to programming. Every company tries to make a killing on one part or another. GM wanted $7 EACH for friggin RIVETS for my rear "bumper" chrome pieces (they're about as tough as a Budweiser can - can't bump ANYTHING but a plastic object without severe damage). Toyota at least paid for THOUSANDS of frame swaps. You think GM will man-up and buy me a new engine, since the POS started burning oil at 50k miles, and can't even make it to 100k without puking its cam bearings? Government Motors is a fitting name ... Given a choice today, I'd BUY a Toyota in a second over a FREE GM product - and that's the truth!
Smitty Smithsonite HAHAHA so you're claiming that Toyota is "more open" when it comes to programming? Weird because there are a dozen handheld tuners and multiple tuning software packages... EFI Live, HP Tuner, etc that support GM products. Not a lot of support for tuning Toyota vehicles. I like how you think of Toyota as some sort of honest, stand up company for replacing rust rotting frames. I guess you chose to ignore the fact that it required a major class action lawsuit that Toyota spent tens, if not hundreds, of millions of dollars in legal fees to fight before they replaced their cheap rotting frames (something that their vehicles were famous for for decades now).
Im guessing DIY is bringing you back in time when you would work on you scissor lift...thats my situation in my shop...lol,hopefully my situation will get better in time.great video.
Awesome video. Thank You I wish you were in Milwaukie Oregon area. I'd hire you. Can find knowledgeable my mechanic s on S10. I am restoring my dad's old 89 S10 it is in great shape still but I have some kind of vacuum leak somewhere only when it's warm or should I say hot. I know this video is 4 years old but I still say thank you.
Did the customer end up fixing the issues with this truck ? I have an 2001 blazer 4.3L with the issue , took it to a shop for a po410 code shop replace smog pump , according to them that was the issue , had the light going on ever since until yesterday they found a cracked vacuum hose for some solenoid and they reset the light . They told me to give it a couple of days to run it before I head to the emissions facility for testing
I remember when the pump was the size of an alternator, belt driven (parasitic), with a diverter valve and muffler- we all called them "Smog Pumps". About the same time that horrible "electronic carburetor" debuted, and it all belonged in the garbage then- and it still does. Now that guy from Rattle Snake Gulch will chime in- about how much he loves his clean "Department of Energy keeping us safe from the Ruskies" radioactive dust-filled air- meanwhile how many kids are turboing their Ricers, car races, drifting, diesels, dragsters, NASCAR, Formula 1, etc. All this poor guy wants is his truck running. $300 FOR PARTS at Dealer or *Rock Auto (Standard Motor Products NOT DORMAN) $112 pump, $26 check valve, and $43 Diverter valve all for $192.35 S&H included, 1 box-order, 3-5 days to Avoca. DIY=FREE or SMA + $100? for labor ($110 if on floor screaming and kicking). Make the call, Sir.*
I have the same code on my 2002 S10 2.2 but my fuses are good , is there a way to check to see if the relay is good without a fancy scan tool . . is this somthing that has to be fixed ? next year it will be 20 years old and no longer need to pass emissions in my state .
I know of the vaccume hose that runs to the little round peice beside the pump. I have an 01 blazer and can't figure out where the second vaccume hose runs too I've looked at schematics and can't figure anything out would you be able to tell me where that second hose runs too? Thanks
In the great state of texas, in some counties, get you some brakes that at least make it appear the pedal works, and tires that you can kick, then slap a sticker on it. Not in dallas tho. If that little intake hose has a crack in it, to the dealer you go this instant, with a police escort.
I thought AIR systems were a thing of the 70;s and 80's So they made the mechanical pump electrical...why am I not surprised. The mechanical ones didn't fail enough?
Michael Stoliker gm still used them in the 90's. used to be run by a 3/8 belt, if it locked up, cut the belt and go, no big deal. then they made it an intricate part of serpentine belt system. if it locked up, you lost everything, and it was positioned in a way it could not be bypassed...yay...
Michael Stoliker The 2005- about 11 Toyota Tacomas didn't have this, then they put them back on on the V6. I don't know why they did that. And my 2012 Tundra with the 5.7 had a couple of recalls for programming the pcm and the pump, apparently they programming made the pump stay on maybe 2 seconds after the ignition was turned off.
Not all S10 trucks have them. Depending on the climate where you bought the truck it may or may not have have an AIR pump. My 2000 with a 4.3 V6 didn't. Bought it brand new in Arizona.
It's there to clean up the emissions on a cold start for emissions - this dinosaur of an engine likely couldn't meet the emissions standards without it. For whatever reason they seem to show up more often on some of the truck engines.
I hate to repeat myself BUT this is why Eric O. and this channel is my favorite on RUclips. What mechanic would have checked that outlet hose and one way exhaust check valve AFTER they found the problem with the faulty pump??? I would have got the phone call, I can hear it now, that my entire pump assembly was bad and needed to be replaced only to drive my vehicle for the next week to have my code trip back on because the ENTIRE PROBLEM was not diagnosis. Eric O. had the insight to check the outlet house for stiffness and to take 5 seconds to examine the one way check valve. Keep doing the great job you do Eric O. btw. kewl to see your helper Hannah back in the shop.
the check valves on majority of vehicles were common issues also, dirty and hang open or stick shut. checking the line while handling it is just common sense, which most lack now days
Is the airpump for a 2003 Chevy Blazer 4.3 V-6
Eric due to your professionalism I was able to diagnose and fix my 2001 blazer's po410 that had been dogging me for years! Replaced the whole pump system, valves, solenoids, relocate upgraded intake assembly..the whole deal. Worked fine for a week then an exhaust check valve let loose... melted what i thought was only the fresh air discharge T.....NOT it waxed the brand new pump tooo!! melted the plastic impeller, locking it in place. All good now. If you ever come down to CT I owe you a beer or two!
DIY is not too bad if you have someone to hand tools to you there is much wisdom in that. Especially when you get older and more broke down
Eric, you almost make me wish I lived in New York again. Mechanics of your calibre are rare finds.
Great diagnosis. That DIY method sure gets old especially for us seniors. Thanks for another great video!!
I literally(a couple hours ago) just did a secondary air pump, solenoid valve, and air shut off (diverter) valve replacement on my 2001 S-10 4.3L. Parts were around $200 for everything, and it works perfect now. Using my Autoenginuity software that supports bi-directional controls, I turned on the AIR system when the truck went into closed loop, and both bank O2 sensors flatlined (went to zero volts), so I know it is fixed. The kit I ordered came with the pump, new fresh air intake tube with what looks like some type of filter on the end of it rather than just an open hose pipe, and a new connector harness for the solenoid valve (which I didn't use). The solenoid valve checked good, as well as the diverter valve, but I knew because I had a check valve leaking that goes to the exhaust manifold that the components had probably gotten a lot of water/condensation in them, so I decided to replace all of it while I was down there under the vehicle. Shops want upwards of about $700+ to do this type of repair, which is just ridiculous! Thank you for the videos you post!! I follow your channel daily, and learn something new every day. Keep up the good work!
Also, it's obvious that someone has worked on that system prior to this because those aren't the factory GM compression clamps on those hoses.
"Working on the floor is tricky", lol man welcome to my life. Rocks, uneven floor, bugs, the full effect!
in my case ants on my ballsack
I put a new pump in my s10 yesterday. No power. I checked that fuse you pulled next to the battery. It's a 30 amp and it's blown.
Back to the game this morning. I'll figure it out. I've been driving my S10 for 21 years! Bought it brand new. This will be my last time inspecting it in NY. New truck time. Thanks for the help guy.
"It's in pretty good shape except it needs everything." That has to be the motto for your shop.
Ugh. I have a 2001 S10 and I went through this last year. Ended my relationship with the shop I had been taking it to. I was up against the wall inspection wise because the first shop never diagnosed the problem thoroughly in the first place and I had to keep coming back every 3-4 weeks when the money light came back on. I tried replacing all the O2 sensors (which were original) to get it to complete the catalyst monitor before the P0410 would set so I could pass inspection and deal with the problem after but it absolutely would not run the catalyst test. I finally gave up and took it to the dealer and they replaced the whole system, which I feel a little better about now having watched this video. Then I pick the truck up and drive it 10 minutes to put gas in it never getting anywhere near 55 mph and go home and the catalyst monitor completed along with everything but the secondary air. Thanks a lot, truck. Thanks a lot.
it can be the green 30 AMP fuse near the battery that triggers the code .
Well done Eric! I’ve been tackling the exact problem on my 2001 S10 4.3L. Never know if the pump is really filled with water. Removed the pump off mine and that thing had lots of water filled that I dumped out. You’re sure right about the water intrusion. It’s been one of the most toughest things I’ve tackled in my experience and now I’ve got about everything to replace on the system. Bypass valve is holding up somehow and just replacing everything else but will test the bypass valve once more. Other than that thanks for the video. You’re the man!
just watched this video because I came across the A.I.R pump while working near it on something else and noticed one of the hose ports was busted. I had no idea what it even was or it's function until I came across this video. I super glued it back together and reinstalled it and it's holding up. I noticed the hardware store clamps on your vehicle aren't factory so I'm thinking that wasn't the first time the A.I.R pump has been worked on. Being six years late to the chat I'm not expecting a reply or looking for one but stranger things have happened. Thanks for the video!
I have a 99 S10 2.2LT 5-speed stick, have been having issues with water in the fuel filter here in S. Florida, but also concerned about the whole air pump set-up too
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO, thanks
DIY style for the team. Thanks Mr. O. I've always wondered what that roar was when I was out scraping the windshield in the morning. I though air pumps went out in the 80's. Nope. Thanks for the video!
Like the way you explained how all the parts where supposed to function and what their failures are. And all while on the floor! Ty. Good job.
I'm getting ready to deal with secondary air prob. The air pump works fine but second air code keeps setting. This video will help a lot. Yes I am doing DIY. In addition I'll be rebuilding AC system, putting in new water pump, replacing all oil cooler lines, radiator, radiator hoses, and smog check valves. I may just replace all the stuff you showed in this video except for pump. The air pump works.
Thanks Eric! As a "layin on the ground" DIY Guy I appreciate you going old school for us! The circuit breaker tool was sweet too. I had an issue with my old Dakota and it took four mini 15 amp fuses before I found the shorted harness wire. Pushing a breaker button would be so much quicker and easier...
What a convoluted way to pump air into an exhaust. DIY keeping you grounded and tough Eric.
Travelingman 1997 get it "keepin him grounded"...lol cause hes layin on the ground...yea
Austin Chase : Maybe, but it seems to be a shit design.
so, you don't recall the belt driven pumps of the 80's?
Travelingman 1997 lol yet Toyota uses uses the same shit system even today on their Tundra pick us. The only difference is that Toyota charges a couple grand for a new air injection pump. GM/AC Delco charges about$100 for the exact same pump with the exact same lifespan (quality).
hochhaul : But isn't the Tundra parts made in the US, and the Chev parts are made in China or Mexico? Eric often shows his genuine Tundra parts are US made, its a total ironic situation. Buy an Asian vehicle and get US parts, or buy a US vehicle and get Asian parts.
Hannah is back !
Can we get looky at her ?
What an awesome video in regards to this problem. Simply the best video about this problem. I have the same year and engine S10. My lights were coming on as well. Glad I live in Florida without the inspection hassles. Just installed a header on the S10. What an improvement and performance enhancer.
Hi there I have the same truck 2.2L you say installed headers, do you remove the check valve? Do you did anything to your ecu? That way you don’t have checking engine light on
@@Ruffles206 did you do your header yet ? I just got 00 s10
I now have the 4.3 version of this. It looks like it's all the same except two exhaust check valves instead of one. Thanks for explaining how it works and what it's for.
Minds is a 2003 Chevy Blazer 4.3 V-6 four door auto matic does it use a airpump for that year
Great video Eric and you can't get much more thorough in your diagnosis. I know your customers are happy b/c they get an accurate quote from one phone call vs. multiple from incomplete diagnosis. That's what separates the great shops from the others. Thanks for the videos man!
1 call 1 estimate done...
South Main Auto Repair Sorted
Great amount of info. Exactly what i needed. You're turnin' into a growly old mechanic you know...bless yer' heart.
I like your style. Well explained, a little humor and informative. It's nice to see Hanna is still there to help because getting up off the floor 20 times for tools sucks!
Ripped out the AIR pump when I converted my S10 to Electric. Great diagnosis!
AIR PUMP?.. that's a first. I wonder if my 99 explorer with 260k have one. Im a DIYer.. and I have learned so much from you guys.. great videos
I looked on Rockauto, doesn't appear that your explorer has an air pump.. be happy. they're a pain in the ass.. I keep getting a pending code P0410 in my '97 Trans Am for my air pump, yet it functions properly, none of the hoses are clogged or bad, and i replaced both check valves.
Great Video. Thorough check of the A.I.R. system! The Colorado's we had were equipped with the electric air pump located on the driver's side. Ours were new enough that the system still worked when I retired from there in 2016, I'm sure it's only a matter of time for that one to give trouble!
Sometimes with a bi-directional scan tool/android/whatever, you can test the replacement parts and see "how it works." THAT'S the learning curve/best part!
Looking forward to part 2.
Only one little thing, with the solenoid valve. They don't hold vacuum on the "load" side, otherwise the diaphragm in the vacuum operated device would never return.
Test again with the mityvac on the engine side!
Great video, amazing how many failed components in one subsystem!
Ahhh yes good call... total fail :( haha regardless even when it was "open" it didn't. Good eye ;)
South Main Auto Repair One of my cars is a BMW E46 that has the exhaust tuning flap on one of the tailpipes. The stub on the vacuum actuator broke off so dirt and water got sucked in to the vacuum reservoir and blocked the solenoid valve!
Great video. I use to lay on cardboard but now I have been using a yoga mat.The yoga mat is awesome, a lot softer than cardboard.
brilliant
Thanks Eric for another auto repair clinic. I had no idea these AIR systems even existed.
laying on the ground Eric just like the rest of us DIYers, when I was young lad I would be the one handing the tools to my dad. hope you get the repair I'd like to see the truck back on the road.
0:58, Nice gimmick. "I'll give you an inspection sticker for the cost of an O2 sensor" - year after year after year...
" Action Master", Good job today!
"It's in pretty good shape except it needs everything"
Cool case. Would love to see the repair.
thank you Eric O you just help me wit my dads s10 wit the vacuum lines !
That was extremely helpful I'm working on it right now....thank you...
I know this is an old video but I had to comment because I just got an s10 like this same drive line for a winter and daily driver and I'm just getting into this exact issue so again great video very thorough. I was about to just buy the air pump and the o2 sensors and the I'd have been dealing with this again in a year or 2 I'm sure. Again great video
Good Diag On the Air Injection Reactor Eric On lots of bad parts also Good video Showing The 30amp Fuse breaker 👍 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
I guess the water came from the exhaust due to the bad check valve. In the old days a pipe from the exhaust ran to a bimetallic spring that would open the choke as the engine warmed up. The housing for the bimetallic spring would fill up with water.
DIY stuff is a workout system!
I usually have the vehicle up on jack stands with scrap carpet serving as the creeper. Up and down, in and out, up and down, in and out, up and down, in and out; grabbin' tools, cycling the ignition, distracted by phone calls and pestering family members. Then, there's the curious neighbors...
If it's a multi-day project, the core muscles are sore as hell on day two. Some people pay for a gym membership, DYI gets me in shape and pays me!
Do you guys know if we can bypass the solenoid and connect the suction line directly to the pump? I checked my dad's 01 Blazer and everything seems to work but am not sure about the solenoid. It needs to pass smog but the only sensor not ready is the AIR. We need them all ready green in California. All the components work am just not sure if the solenoid works though. Any thoughts? Thanks and great video
This is one of the best video's I've seen on youtube. Your tutorial of all the important details is A+, you Sir are an excellent teacher and I thank you for the video. Subscibed √
Ok Eric,If People Think Thats Bad,Thats acutally a walk in the park.I Had 2004 Junk BMW 325i That Gave Me Secondary air injection code p0411 that drove me crazy,for a while.
# 1 It had very low power when driving,#2 it had the air injection code.So I Tested the air pump,which was bad and had water in it too,also the solonoid was not working either,not allowing Vaccum to the Diverter valve going to the cylinder head,and the diverter valve was plugged solid,not allowing air to go into the head,which Destroyed The Air pump.
But Remember this Vehicle had very little power,So I Also Tested and did a back pressure test on the Cat,and it was also plugged solid,so I knew The Cat Converter Needed to replaced too.Then I Removed The Upstream 02 sensor and drove the car up the block,and it had plenty of power once again.So I Figured I would do the Entire check on the car and tell the customer everything that was wrong with it,and do it all at once.And now mind you I was not able to look at the 02 sensor to go lean when Air pump was commanded on,cause the whole system was shot.Anyway I quoted the Customer a huge price to fix the whole system,Cat Converter,Air pump,Solonoid,Diverter Valve,Basically The Whole 9 Yards.BOY WAS I WRONG AFTER I REPLACED ALL THAT.HOWEVER ALL THE SECONDARY AIR PUMP STUFF WAS WORKING FINE,BUT WHEN I WENT INTO DATA STREAM TO LOOK AT LEAN FROM THE 02 SENSOR,IT WOULD DROP LEAN,BUT NOT LEAN ENOUGH,SOMEHOW IT WAS NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH AIRFLOW INTO THE EXHAUST,AT COLD START,WHEN THE PCM COMMANDED IT TO.
AFTER APPROX 1 WEEK OR SO OF FIGHTING IT,NOW I WAS SERIOUSLY PISSED OFF,SCREAMING AND THROWING MY TOOLS ACROSS THE SHOP,THE CUSTOMER WAS ACTUALLY PRETTY NICE,I COULDNT BELIEVE IT,BUT I TAKE THIS KIND OF STUFF TO HEART,AND I SERIOUSLY TRY TO KEEP A MISDIAGNOSIS,TO VERY VERY BARE MINIMUM.
DO YOU KNOW WHY ALL THOSE COMPONETS WENT BAD,CAN YOU GUESS BROTHER?????
AFTER CHECKING WITH ALL MY BMW FRIENDS AND PULLING ALL THE RESOURCES I COULD TO HELP ME,NO ONE HAD AN ANSWER FOR ME,EVEN MY FRIENDS AT THE BMW DEALERSHIP,HAD NEVER SEEN THIS.OF COURSE THIS PIECE OF CRAP HAD TO FALL IN MY LAP.WELL YES I FOUND IT.IT WAS A PARTIALLY PLUGGED AIR INJECTION PORT IN THE CYLINDER HEAD.JUNK BMW'S THESE DESIGNERS ARE TOTAL IDIOTS.YEAH I FOUND IT ALRIGHT $4500 DOLLARS LATER,TRY THAT ONE ON FOR SIZE BROTHER,LOL
Russell David I feel your pain LOL, I few yrs ago my son found an 03 325i E46 sedan, 150k looked and ran like new, perfect interior, not a mark on the undercarriage for a good price. Except for Volkswagen I didn't have much experience with German cars but it was so nice we bought it anyway! First mistake. After 10-11k the ck eng lite camouflage on with codes for emissions(I don't remember which) and I was so sorry we bought it. I've never seen anything so over engineered and complicated as the intake manifold, all the related parts and miles of hose that had to be removed and repaired. A complete nightmare and learning experience. It is the first and last BMW or Mercedes that I'll allow in the family unless it's under warranty. Oh yeah, if the fuel pump goes you need to buy the entire tank assembly for $2k from BMW as the pump or any other internals aren't serviceable separately. Great design..
James Zivny,Yeah I Know all about That Replacing The Fuel TANK with the pump,Thats Because the e46 has what they call a SULEV MOTOR.
YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP SEPERATELY.Its a absolute Junk Design.You made a good move to get rid of that car,LOL
WHAT'S UP WITH ALL THE CAPS DUDE
Glycerin DOES IT MATTER DUDE ???
Not really, only lamers do it
New Quote? "What the thunder" Garage mans talk Eric style.
I've learned a lot. Thanks for the lesson.
Great video Eric. Shows just how much work and money it takes to keep the older cars/trucks on the road.
Jimmy Mac It's like pick your poison, buy a new one and spend a lot in payments, or a old one and spend a lot in repairs.
Just found your channel a few days ago. Love your videos man! I was just curious, is that a Cox Jeep on the counter in your office? Thanks again for taking the time to make your great videos!
the service manual has a longer hose for the intake of the pump so water will not enter into the pump drive motor or into the valve to the vacuum that opens due to vacuum that allows air to feed into the exhaust System so the oxygen sensors read a correct voltage at start up or the CPM will kick the light for secondary air injection failure.
excellent explanation of the secondary air system.
Thanks for the informative video. Very helpful.
Another great video.
@19:20, "Not often do you see 14 year old vehicles that are still worth pursuing a repair on." How long should you keep a vehicle before it becomes not worth repairing? Thumbs up video. Excellent diagnostics.
That comment is based on the area of the country he lives in. The salt on the roads usually rots the frame and body of the vehicle and it no longer is worth repairing.
Around here the average life span is about 12 years and 90% of vehicles are toast (due to rust)
Talleddie81, there may be more to it than that. Separate from the engine and transmission (the most expensive components), a vehicle is made up of at least a dozen major independent systems that each have a service life. For example, steering, a/c, cooling, suspension, computer, electrical, starting, wheel bearings, emissions/evap, catalytic converter, exhaust, fuel, etc. At some point the average service life of each of these systems comes to an end near the same time. This video seems like a good example of an air pump system in which every part has reached end of life. As an owner you have to ask yourself, what other systems may be close to end of life and how accessible are the new parts. Should this S-10 vehicle owner go for a newer vehicle now instead of spending more $ today on parts, tires, etc.
Depends on how thick your wallet is.
You are correct, however, in the salt belt when the frame rots away and is no longer safe, it really doesn't matter what condition the rest of the components are in. No one is replacing a frame.
It's drawing up arrows give it some Red Bull and Eric that's not water.
Great video.
Eric, I have a 1998 chevy S10, replaced two air pumps that filled with water,the original pump when I bought truck 8 years ago and the second a year later . I moved the air inlet hose and placed it up near battery so it doesn`t suck in water. Problem solved ever since.
Very thorough videos, you’ve got a new subscriber.
I’m a euro guy and just recently picked up a 2000 s10, same combo as the video. The truck sounds like the jet engine as you drive on cold start. Is that normal for these s10’s?
I have that code haven't been under truck yet but my luck I probably need everything but video was a huge help thanx with this truck I'm close to being a professional mechanic because I've been fixing everything myself
There ought to be a rating on every car sold that indicates difficulty of maintenance and repair (how much of a pain in the a$$ a car is to work on). The placement of the fuse box would definitely knock down that score, and that's definitely not the worst I've seen on SMA. Engineers at desks should have some kind of incentive to consider the mechanics and techs who have to deal with that crap!
Awesome video man! Helped me in more than one way
I need a mechanic like this in Tampa, FL!
Good thing here in Florida they don't test emissions.
Eric, I've had this problem the last three times I've run through emissions and bought new pumps each time, with it failing a few months later. If I went to the trouble of simply mounting the pump higher than the exhaust with a proper wiring extension and longer hoses, do you think this would cure it? The 4.3 runs great and only has 110K on it and I'm getting tired of this 'cascading' fault.
Hope you get the job of repairing the A.I.R. system it will be cool to see working correctly
I enjoy these videos
I have two motorcycles that have air injection systems and both use the exhaust pulse wave to pull in the fresh air.
many of the vehicles do that anyway, except when the airs needed the most, hence the pump :)
Eric i have purchased a 2002 s10 2.2 flex fuel. The engine was gone and no fuel lines from pump. I have installed another engine but am not sure what fuel lines go where it has a dual inlet fuel filter and single out is this a regulator style filter and is the 2.2 flex fuel a returnless rail system. There is also a line above the filter that goes to front but seems like its maybe vapor. Just seeking info on this particular fuel system
I have a 2000 Buick with this problem. I know its a different animal, but within the same species...I learn a lot about how to track down this problem.
I had the same problem with my Buick years ago, same 410 code, so yes those AIR pumps are very, very common!
@@glassvial I finally took the car to a Buick Dealership...around $3,000 later it runs like a top.
Im having a trouble with airpump monitor not setting this video just gave me some tips of what to check good viedo
If I remember correctly on Mercedes older ones if you got a bad check valve it could ruin the pump. So you changed the pump and it could comeback and hunt you if you did not have a good working check valve.
they usually over-speed and no cooling air flow when plugged, which = cooked
it's like that for all AIR systems
Love the Oreo pointer
lifts are a luxury... at least that's what the boss tells me. 1 tons are fun diy style...
This was a very informative video. Would it hurt the fuel mileage if this system is bad?
Hey Eric that's not fair! DIYers don't have a beautiful Hannah assistant to hand them tools! You have to do at least a hundred crunches a day and get your own tools xD
I can't even do one crunch haha. However I can do a roll to the side half push up thing does that count?
Nice NY inspection. I fix your machine! Well I would if you were in my region.
@@SouthMainAutocan get looky at hannah ?
Doing it like a DIYer. Love it. Course we don't have the lovely Hannah assisting. Still... ;-)
500.00 for repair, 30,000 for new truck, no brainer. Heck that truck is 5 years newer then mine. Basically straight off the lot. Most mechanics drive POS, but some drive nice Tundra's :)
did you get the repair job for the A.I.R. pump on that Chevy pick-up truck? I had something very similar on my 1988 ford f150 with a 4.9L straight 6!
Eric i have an 2001 Jimmy that had the Air pump issue when i got under the truck i could see two things 1.)
the check valve closest to the air pump had a broken nipple left still in one of the hoses, and 2. the lowest hose on the pump had what looked like a hole had been drilled in that hose! do you suppose someone did that so moister/water could drain from the system ? though never saw any evidence of water in the check valve! my fix has remained good for the last 6 years! any thoughts? should i recheck for any water in system?
Does the intake hose for the secondary Air pump hose connected to anything or is it unattached and draws air directly from the tube?
diy'ing is so much easyer with a gopher. Hanna go for this, Hanna go for that. 🐹
We gotta get this man another hat.
old scruffy hats are the best hats!!!
Another useless system designed to pump consumer dollars right into GM's bank account. Par for the course.
Thanks for shooting this one. I never bothered to learn how these work, since most older vehicles are exempt where I live, and thus, the system gets tossed in the trash. Good to know for future reference, in case I get a newer one. :)
Smitty Smithsonite lol, GM AC Delco charges less than $100 for a new air injection pump. Toyota charges over $2000 for the EXACT same pump. And then there's Ford and their shit timing chains that fail well before 100k miles and will run you well over $1k a pop.
Eric just said in the vid - 23:00 - kit is $370+ .
All modern cars are shit - ain't just GM. I pick on them more, because they porked me out of $30k for my POS '07 Silverado. Ain't even at 91k miles, and my cam bearings are on their way out. Been a long list of failures on that turd ...
Smitty Smithsonite Buying any brand of vehicle made the same year they're filing for bankruptcy is a terrible. idea.
AC Delco #219-505 runs $165 and is made in USA.
This exact same part is popular in the Toyota Tundra/4-Runner crowd because the Genuine Toyota version fails just as often yet costs over $1000. One guy was told by a Toyota engineer that the pump would cost $1600:
www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/133435-secondary-air-injection-system-pump/#/topics/133435 (post #4)
They weren't filing for bankruptcy - at least not in the public's eye - at the time I signed the papers. Had the Ford dealer been open Sundays, I'd be driving an '07 F150 today. GM wasn't my first choice, even back then ... although I preferred GM stuff from the 50's - early 90's at the time.
No surprise GM parts fit 'Yotas - guess who Toyota models their operations after? They've copied nearly every aspect of GM's operations, except that they've made their service info not so much of a big secret as GM has, especially when it comes to programming.
Every company tries to make a killing on one part or another. GM wanted $7 EACH for friggin RIVETS for my rear "bumper" chrome pieces (they're about as tough as a Budweiser can - can't bump ANYTHING but a plastic object without severe damage). Toyota at least paid for THOUSANDS of frame swaps. You think GM will man-up and buy me a new engine, since the POS started burning oil at 50k miles, and can't even make it to 100k without puking its cam bearings? Government Motors is a fitting name ...
Given a choice today, I'd BUY a Toyota in a second over a FREE GM product - and that's the truth!
Smitty Smithsonite HAHAHA so you're claiming that Toyota is "more open" when it comes to programming? Weird because there are a dozen handheld tuners and multiple tuning software packages... EFI Live, HP Tuner, etc that support GM products. Not a lot of support for tuning Toyota vehicles.
I like how you think of Toyota as some sort of honest, stand up company for replacing rust rotting frames. I guess you chose to ignore the fact that it required a major class action lawsuit that Toyota spent tens, if not hundreds, of millions of dollars in legal fees to fight before they replaced their cheap rotting frames (something that their vehicles were famous for for decades now).
Yes we do appreciate it!
At the 20:35 mark, where does that vacuum hose with the check valve on it right next to what your pointing at, where does it plug in at underneath?
Im guessing DIY is bringing you back in time when you would work on you scissor lift...thats my situation in my shop...lol,hopefully my situation will get better in time.great video.
Very good video!! Keep them coming
Awesome video. Thank You I wish you were in Milwaukie Oregon area. I'd hire you. Can find knowledgeable my mechanic s on S10. I am restoring my dad's old 89 S10 it is in great shape still but I have some kind of vacuum leak somewhere only when it's warm or should I say hot. I know this video is 4 years old but I still say thank you.
Did the customer end up fixing the issues with this truck ? I have an 2001 blazer 4.3L with the issue , took it to a shop for a po410 code shop replace smog pump , according to them that was the issue , had the light going on ever since until yesterday they found a cracked vacuum hose for some solenoid and they reset the light . They told me to give it a couple of days to run it before I head to the emissions facility for testing
Morning Eric
I remember when the pump was the size of an alternator, belt driven (parasitic), with a diverter valve and muffler- we all called them "Smog Pumps". About the same time that horrible "electronic carburetor" debuted, and it all belonged in the garbage then- and it still does. Now that guy from Rattle Snake Gulch will chime in- about how much he loves his clean "Department of Energy keeping us safe from the Ruskies" radioactive dust-filled air- meanwhile how many kids are turboing their Ricers, car races, drifting, diesels, dragsters, NASCAR, Formula 1, etc. All this poor guy wants is his truck running. $300 FOR PARTS at Dealer or *Rock Auto (Standard Motor Products NOT DORMAN) $112 pump, $26 check valve, and $43 Diverter valve all for $192.35 S&H included, 1 box-order, 3-5 days to Avoca. DIY=FREE or SMA + $100? for labor ($110 if on floor screaming and kicking). Make the call, Sir.*
man thanks for help the people god bless you
This Video just earned my subscription! Thanks for the great work!
bah, plug her straight to the battery, replace whatever lets the magic smoke out :))
S10 has a built in BJ. Sweet. But like most built in BJ systems, they fail. lol Thanks Dr. O!
Great video, this helped a lot 👍🏽
Nice diagnosis. You shoulda left those sweet white walls out on that guys tires....lol
I have the same code on my 2002 S10 2.2 but my fuses are good , is there a way to check to see if the relay is good without a fancy scan tool . . is this somthing that has to be fixed ? next year it will be 20 years old and no longer need to pass emissions in my state .
Awesome video. Thank you
Did you do a follow up video?
Here I am AGAIN with the same Issue...this is the 4th emissions year in a row...I just noticed the 1 way check valve up top
I know of the vaccume hose that runs to the little round peice beside the pump. I have an 01 blazer and can't figure out where the second vaccume hose runs too I've looked at schematics and can't figure anything out would you be able to tell me where that second hose runs too? Thanks
In the great state of texas, in some counties, get you some brakes that at least make it appear the pedal works, and tires that you can kick, then slap a sticker on it.
Not in dallas tho. If that little intake hose has a crack in it, to the dealer you go this instant, with a police escort.
I thought AIR systems were a thing of the 70;s and 80's So they made the mechanical pump electrical...why am I not surprised. The mechanical ones didn't fail enough?
Michael Stoliker gm still used them in the 90's. used to be run by a 3/8 belt, if it locked up, cut the belt and go, no big deal. then they made it an intricate part of serpentine belt system. if it locked up, you lost everything, and it was positioned in a way it could not be bypassed...yay...
Just fixed one on a 2012 the other day too...
Michael Stoliker The 2005- about 11 Toyota Tacomas didn't have this, then they put them back on on the V6. I don't know why they did that. And my 2012 Tundra with the 5.7 had a couple of recalls for programming the pcm and the pump, apparently they programming made the pump stay on maybe 2 seconds after the ignition was turned off.
Not all S10 trucks have them. Depending on the climate where you bought the truck it may or may not have have an AIR pump. My 2000 with a 4.3 V6 didn't. Bought it brand new in Arizona.
It's there to clean up the emissions on a cold start for emissions - this dinosaur of an engine likely couldn't meet the emissions standards without it. For whatever reason they seem to show up more often on some of the truck engines.