This is exactly the question I was trying to clarify my suspicions! I don't have planer yet and I was trying to put myself in the best position without banging my head against a wall. Thanks!
Thanks very much for this video, 14 years ago. Helped me figure out that a jointer is only a “flat maker.” That’s it. I can wish it to make parallel things but it won’t. 3 hours of blade alignment later… it still cuts tapers, and rightfully so. Over to the planer I go…
Sooooooooooooooooo, glad I seen this. Every time I tried to joint something it would always come tapered in the worst way, it was so frustrating. Just so I understand you correctly, joint two side that are touching each other, then go to the planer and or the table saw to square it up right ???????
+drowization That's right. You create the two flat sides on the jointer then go to the planer to make the opposing faces parallel to the first ones made .
+drowization I'd like to take all the credit but I just found the right guhy to call. He has been designing jointers and other machines for both American and European markets. HE knows what he is talking about except when you talk to the "forum experts" ho still think they know way more than the real guys.
What if everything is setup properly and proper technique is being used and you still get a taper on a single light pass? What would/could be the issue? It's a benchtop jointer with no outfeed adjustment.
You can try turning the board end for end but b e wary of grain direction, you could be going straight against it and risk chunking out or splitting, especially with heavy cuts. An opposing cut might help but the jointer is not designed to make two faces parallel. It has no reference to the opposing face to cut parallel to.
Ive never seen jointer that could cut a taper in one pass. I dont think I ever looked for a taper after working one side anyway. I always flatten one side then go to the planer. I dont have a clue on the instant taper thing..
I always jointed one face then used the thickness planer to correct the opposing face. Jointing the first face gives the planner a straight reference surface to follow.
@flyingrcdotnet Me too, but how does that prevent a taper on the one face you jointed? Most times it takes multiple passes on the face, that's when I see tapers.
I hope you are still around to answer this question. I watched your video and fully understand what you said and that is what I do with my Powermatic 8" helical cutter Jointer. The question I want to know the answer to is this... Once I take a board from the jointer to my table saw and cut it perfectly parallel and measure it with calipers to be sure.... Why then when I go back to the jointer and run it though one side a few more times it loses it's parallelness. In other words it cuts perfectly flat BUT tapers the board? I have set it up very carefully using a good steel 60 inch straight edge all the way round. I am just curious as to why this happens?
Thank you for the link. It also basically repeated what was said here, but after reading it I came to my own conclusions. AND I think most people will agree with me. I am 68 years old and my history is engineering, therefore I have always dealt with exactness and desire to know "reasons" why things do what they do. These articles do explain HOW to do thing the correct way of course. My question was WHY would a perfectly parallel board that was run through a perfectly setup jointer a few times then taper the board., when in theory it SHOULD be taking the exact same amount of material off the edge all the way down. Here is MY "Theory" for those who are just curious, not that it will change anything or alter they way woodworking works, but might sooth a few bewildered minds that are new to woodworking. Wood is soft. It is NOT like steel. If you were working solid steel, on a perfect set up this probably would not happen (or be less than .0001") but wood being soft, when you push down on it you bend and compress it on the infeed side and therefore it DOES indeed remove MORE wood as it passes over the cutter heads on the trailing end. On the table saw it is not ONLY the fence that gives it the parallel but also the lack of side pressure pushing the wood into the saw blade. For example it is very hard to get a parallel cut on a band saw with a rip fence due to the band saw's tendency to drift. As the band saw drifts toward the fence or away from it, does not matter, you will end up with a poor cut.
At last, I found someone who can clearly explain the uses and limitations of the jointer, planer and table saw. All in 5 mins. Thank you.
I love your reviews. Always informative and your dry demeanor adds to the videos. Great work! Thanks.
This is exactly the question I was trying to clarify my suspicions! I don't have planer yet and I was trying to put myself in the best position without banging my head against a wall. Thanks!
4:12 -- "...the jointer has limitations. GET OVER IT."
Made me chuckle.
All in all, a very good no-nonsense instructional video. Thanks for posting!!
Excellenté! Very easy to understand. Thank you! “The jointer has limitations, get over it” lol
Thanks very much for this video, 14 years ago. Helped me figure out that a jointer is only a “flat maker.” That’s it. I can wish it to make parallel things but it won’t. 3 hours of blade alignment later… it still cuts tapers, and rightfully so. Over to the planer I go…
Best Jointer video ever! Thank you very much? I am just starting my journey jointing wood. LOL I am over it, I'll go to the table saw!
i like this guy he knows what hes talking about and he gives easy to understand explanations,,, good job
Thanks!! Ran into this problem today and now I know how to fix.
"The jointer has limitations, get over it", sir you are the quintessential diplomat...LOL
This was eye opening for me. Many thanks!
0:36 put a pickle in your pocket... I'm going to chuckle about that all night!
Wish my shop was that clean.......
god bless you sir you showed me something no one told about or talk about it
Thank you! This video is exactly what I needed to know! Very well explained!
Great instructional -- wonderfully clear and succinct.
Sooooooooooooooooo, glad I seen this. Every time I tried to joint something it would always come tapered in the worst way, it was so frustrating. Just so I understand you correctly, joint two side that are touching each other, then go to the planer and or the table saw to square it up right ???????
+drowization That's right. You create the two flat sides on the jointer then go to the planer to make the opposing faces parallel to the first ones made .
+thintz12 Thank you. finally, someone who knows what their talking about. AWESOME,,,,
+drowization I'd like to take all the credit but I just found the right guhy to call. He has been designing jointers and other machines for both American and European markets. HE knows what he is talking about except when you talk to the "forum experts" ho still think they know way more than the real guys.
I don't think that it is pure coincidence that comments like this always seem to show up after closing time at the bars.....
What if everything is setup properly and proper technique is being used and you still get a taper on a single light pass? What would/could be the issue? It's a benchtop jointer with no outfeed adjustment.
You can try turning the board end for end but b e wary of grain direction, you could be going straight against it and risk chunking out or splitting, especially with heavy cuts. An opposing cut might help but the jointer is not designed to make two faces parallel. It has no reference to the opposing face to cut parallel to.
@flyingrcdotnet Do you have any idea why it's cutting tapers after one pass? It never used to. I'm not trying to get two parallel sides.
Ive never seen jointer that could cut a taper in one pass. I dont think I ever looked for a taper after working one side anyway. I always flatten one side then go to the planer. I dont have a clue on the instant taper thing..
Thanks, Excellent Education video.
Any relation to Wilford Brimley?
So how do you correctly face joint without tapers?
I always jointed one face then used the thickness planer to correct the opposing face. Jointing the first face gives the planner a straight reference surface to follow.
@flyingrcdotnet Me too, but how does that prevent a taper on the one face you jointed? Most times it takes multiple passes on the face, that's when I see tapers.
I hope you are still around to answer this question. I watched your video and fully understand what you said and that is what I do with my Powermatic 8" helical cutter Jointer. The question I want to know the answer to is this... Once I take a board from the jointer to my table saw and cut it perfectly parallel and measure it with calipers to be sure.... Why then when I go back to the jointer and run it though one side a few more times it loses it's parallelness. In other words it cuts perfectly flat BUT tapers the board? I have set it up very carefully using a good steel 60 inch straight edge all the way round. I am just curious as to why this happens?
www.newwoodworker.com/jntrtaprs.html
Thank you for the link. It also basically repeated what was said here, but after reading it I came to my own conclusions. AND I think most people will agree with me. I am 68 years old and my history is engineering, therefore I have always dealt with exactness and desire to know "reasons" why things do what they do. These articles do explain HOW to do thing the correct way of course. My question was WHY would a perfectly parallel board that was run through a perfectly setup jointer a few times then taper the board., when in theory it SHOULD be taking the exact same amount of material off the edge all the way down. Here is MY "Theory" for those who are just curious, not that it will change anything or alter they way woodworking works, but might sooth a few bewildered minds that are new to woodworking.
Wood is soft. It is NOT like steel. If you were working solid steel, on a perfect set up this probably would not happen (or be less than .0001") but wood being soft, when you push down on it you bend and compress it on the infeed side and therefore it DOES indeed remove MORE wood as it passes over the cutter heads on the trailing end. On the table saw it is not ONLY the fence that gives it the parallel but also the lack of side pressure pushing the wood into the saw blade.
For example it is very hard to get a parallel cut on a band saw with a rip fence due to the band saw's tendency to drift. As the band saw drifts toward the fence or away from it, does not matter, you will end up with a poor cut.
Me too... first I've heard of that expression.
I thought the same thing....
planer and then thicknesser is the only way to fly
Guess the obvious sometimes has to be explained.