Yanmar Clone 10hp Diesel Engine - Detailed Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 3 сен 2023
- This video in an in-depth rebuild of a Yanmar L100 Chinese clone (H-Power 418F86). It is a 418CC 10hp air-cooled direct injection diesel. This video can be used as a reference for other Yanmar air cooled engines, or 186F clones.
The reason for this teardown was to get the crankshaft machined from a taper fit to a 1" keyed shaft. Machining costs ended up too expensive, so the motor was reassembled with no changes.
For a instructional disassembly, see the video below.
• Yanmar Clone 10hp Dies... 
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Wow, that's horse puckie quote for machining the crank. I am a long-time machinist and no fly-by-night hobbyist. I would have machined that shaft & keyway for somewhere between 1 & 2 hundred. That's still not cheap, but $900 is pretty ridiculous for a one to two-hour job.
I just ordered one of these clone motors. I'm liking your videos on it. Thanks.
Options are thin on the ground in my area. And I went to engine specialist places.
Glad you’re enjoying the videos.
I saw that. I have a project with a different engine that's has a 36mm shaft and I need it to either be 1in or 1 1/4in. I decided to try modifying the electric clutch before it gets to that point.
@@Duamerthrax these crankshafts are soft and pretty easy to machine. I recently turned one down to 3/4” no problem on a hobby lathe.
Great video! Watched the teardown and rebuild. I have a 186fa 10hp Yanmar copy. Won't start. This has given me a few more things to check. Has compression, injector is atomising well but wont fire. Seemed to be missing valve cover gasket when i set clearances. Anyway appreciate your vid. Cheers
Thanks. That’s a tough place to be. Seems like you’re taking all the right steps to track the issue down.
How did you go?
I just ordered a new crank for mine off Amazon that’s a 1 inch straight cut for $125, has all gears and main bearing installed I just printed out the same manual as well lol.
I saw that one for sale.
The connecting rod bearing can be 2 different diameters, either 40 or 42mm.
The one for sale was the wrong size.
Man keep on going. This was so interesting to watch. You should also build some minibikes with smaller diesel engines.
Thank you, this was an interesting engine to work on. This particular one is going on a Gravely tractor, but I have been keeping an eye out for ones to put on fun projects.
I’m replacing the piston and rings in my 186 clone. Do you know where I can find the ring end gap specification? Thank you
That is not something I have found.
I will take a look though as ring gap will be critical for my plan to add a turbo.
Are the gaskets the same as a Yenmar?
Hard to say since I’ve only messed with clones. I would say that they are all the same except maybe the head gasket. The clone is a different displacement from the Yanmars.
When re installing fuel pump does engine need to be at tdc?
Nope, not necessary
Good to see this,so what's your valve lash measurements?Watching you from Tabuk city Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦
0.006 for both.
The valve lash on the intake and exhaust is the same ? I thought intake is .006 and ex is .008
I was reading off the Yanmar L100 manual. It said .006 and .006. The manual is free online.
@haoleboyshow-tos2279 ok I have the F186 clone in my kipor genset. The kipor tech told me .006 and .008 (they are all the same Chinese clones) but I do see some info saying IN is 0.15mm (.006) and Ex is a range 0.15 to 0.2 (.006 to .008) so I guess the tech gave the upper end of range.. looser is better than too tight I guess.
@@ShorrockPaul Good to know. Is that info available online anywhere? I have only been able to find resources from Yanmars.
Very insightful video, thank you for sharing this. I am wondering what machining does need to be done to rebuild this engine. Does it get bored/honed to a larger diameter piston and do the rod and mains get turned down for oversize bearings? I have two of these engines and three of the smaller 3hp jobs (168cc). Use them for backup generator power. I see replacement piston/rings and bearing kits on Ebay but no indication of whether they are standard or oversize. Thank you for any information you can share and keep the videos coming!
I have never bothered to plasti dip or check these engines. The one in this video had 2 hours on it, and the other had 20. Neither showed visible wear so I kept with the factory bearing.
What is the torque setting on the retainer plate please
@@declanveale5849 The crank bearing retaining plate I tightened to 20 ft-lbs.
Do these engines have a crankcase ventilation I can't find it on mine? I'm having a build up of crankcase pressure and I can hear the escaping from somewhere but can't find out where it is could you tell me where it is?
It is built into the valve cover and head.
There is a hole that travels through the valve cover and down into the intake manifold.
@@haoleboyshow-tos2279 thanks is it common for that thing to get blocked or something because I'm all of a sudden having a build-up pressure in the crankcase there's a hissing noise coming from around the valve cover after you should it down?
@@bh635 Not sure about common, but I’ve never experienced it. You should be able to easily take off the valve cover and run some compressed air through the passage.
You can by the crank you need fore a hundred or so chk e bay or Amazon or alliexpress
There are 2 different cranks. 40 and 42 mm connecting rod bearing. Didn’t know which so I stuck with this.
I can see that this engine has a fuel stop solenoid and wonder if it had an oil alert fail safe as well? I ask as I have two generators and both have suffered from dry joints and wires falling off the low oil circuit board. This has made me very curious as to how this system works, the oil pressure switch works the opposite way to most vehicles, that is contacts made with no pressure and open with oil pressure. The circuit board has two large capacitors and two relays with an LED showing oil shutdown. I have searched in vain for any information on the net and would be extremely grateful if someone could enlighten me how this works.
Unfortunately, I don’t have too much insight. The generator I got this from was an electrical nightmare and I just wanted the engine.
I got away without bleeding the injector line by wiring the decompressor and pulling the handle untill I smelled diesel.
That’s a good idea for this motor. I’ve used a hand vacuum pump to leak test a vintage stove before. May be a little more tedious for a v8 diesel.
Another trick is you'll hear a distinct tick or crackle from the injector popping once it receives fuel, which comes sooner than the smell of diesel (likely)
@@jetstream454 I’ll have to keep that in mind as I start on another rebuild.
@@jetstream454 I never heard it.
where its oil pump???
It’s driven off the governor.
what!! :D Thank you sir and respect from Montenegro! i have also that diesel engine its economic! @@haoleboyshow-tos2279
Там нема масляного насоса, змащування розбризкуванням
no oil pump with pressure? :@@slesar-podpolshcyk
$900 😂
My thoughts exactly. It was way better to do myself
Good to see this,so what's your valve lash measurements?Watching you from Tabuk city Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦
I have 0.006” on both valves.