I second or third that! Thank you! After reading all the comments, I am starting to think another transmission option exits that will accept most of the parts in this video! I am thinking of the ZF60 bolted in the early 90s to L98 SBC Camaros and corvettes! Again my memory is all over the map these days, but didn't these early black label ZF60 had to have their input shafts changed so you could use them with LS motors? I am thinking L98 is the same as a first generation SBC so it should work!
@@tommyflores5963 I haven't because the T5 isn't rated for LS power, but I have seen it done. 5 of the 6 bellhousing bolts on the adapter I use will line up with the LS as will the dowel pins. I'm not sure what clutch you would use because I am not sure if the small block one I used will mount to the flywheel
I just finished a T5 swap on a 63 ford fairlane and I got a lot of help and parts from Modern Drivelines. They are very knowledgeable about these swaps. Nice Job on yours BTW
Thanks for nice comment. I did a T5 in a 63 Falcon and I loved it. Mine had a V8 swap, but I would like to put this trans behind an I6 powered Falcon someday.
Fantastic video with A LOT of great information! I just completed the same kind of swap in a 1977 Corvette! Used an adapter plate from speed gems. Currently editing the footage! Really wish i had this video when we did it.
Thanks for the kind words, let me know when the video is up, I'd love to see it! I was just trying to make it simple enough so more people try it because it is a really fun mod.
There is some great info here but I think it is still simpler to seek out a World Class T5 from a Camaro and save the cost and possible misalignment issues of an adapter. For my 1970 C-10, I used a Camaro WC T5 and was able to bolt it directly to my original bell housing. The Camaro T5 is tougher to find but they are out there if you spend some time looking.
I agree it is easier to do the swap as you suggested. The Ford WCT5, specifically the 92+ years are quite a bit stronger with higher nickel content and carbon fiber synchros. They are also quite a bit easier to find for most people and usually cheaper. I thought this video may be helpful to people that are running a little more power from their 350 than the Camaro T5 could handle. Glad you are running a T5 in your C10, that is a really fun setup, and the 68-72 C10's and K5s are one of my favorite looking Chevys.
This video is extremely helpful, I’m building my new daily and I probably would have given up and put a automatic in my car if it wasn’t for this video
I put a T-5 from a '86 Chevy S-10, 2WD pickup in my '53 Chevy pickup with the original 6 banger engine. The T-5 has the same bolt pattern, just drill the holes to a 1/2 inch, uses same release bearing, same pilot bearing, but not the same clutch disc. The biggest thing is, you have to change the rear end to open drive shaft and differential. With the overdrive 5th gear it's like a different truck, and it looks like it came in the truck. 5 gears sure beats 3.
I've done a couple T5s on the only 140-200 I6 Fords and you are right, it's like whole different vehicle. I'm curious why you would have to run an open diff? I have run this trans with plenty of locked rear ends
@@AustinCoulson What I meant was that the 53 Chevy PU had a closed driveshaft and you have to change the driveshaft and the differential, but it doesn't matter if it's open or LSD.
Thank you sir, I have had an '81 AMC Spirit in mothballs since '19 because I had no clue how I was going to make the clutch work on my SBC to Ford T5 swap...
Nice video, I like how thorough you are with the parts, part #s, and where you got them. I’m looking at buying a 95 Chevy 1500 4x4 with a v8 and 5spd. #SAVETHEMANUALS
That's a great vehicle. I love the OBS Chevy's. Watched a guy hydro-lock a motor on one. Pulled the plugs in the middle of the creek, cranked the starter, shot tons of water out, reinstalled them and it ran perfectly afterwards. Watched another guy overheat one until it locked the motor solid. after a couple hours it cooled, made a loud cracking noise, then it restarted and ran perfectly (with creek water in the radiator and a raw egg to seal the radiator leak). Truly a bulletproof drivetrain...
I’m doing the reverse! I’m pulling the T5 I put in my 67 mustang 15 years ago and installing an AOD so my wife will enjoy driving it more (I bought it for her!)
Could you make a list of all this stuff ? You said it would be in the description but I don’t see it, I’m trying to do this swap on my 79 nova and could greatly use the information as I’ve never done a swap in general and once done will be my first manual on my first car I ever bought, driving around a classic a 20 years old that I built myself is a dream of mine. Love your content and appreciate the time it takes to make these videos!
Just bought a 1969 k20 it already has a 5 speed. Seems to work great except 1st and second seem too low... It seem second is not low enough to take off in. Guess the transmission will have to have 2 gears swapped out. Great video
I done the same thing with mine last year. Ive been wanting to show people how to do it but i havnt got to it. Took a ton of pictures. I used a 95 t5 though so i had to put a spacer between the engine and bellhousing because the input shaft in the 95 was much longer and i also had to trim some off of the tip of the input shaft.
Also dikota digital makes a speedometer adapter to run a factory manual cable driven speedometer off of the ford t5 or tko transmissions. You also need a conversion u-joint to make the driveshaft work.
Or run a die of the right thread over the threads that are there now and then use the nut to tighten it against the trans to keep in place along w loctite would be another alternative to welding
I've seen way more issues with manual linkage than hydraulic and I prefer the feel of hydraulic, but I know plenty of people that feel the way you do. Just a preference I guess.
Gosh this was many years ago so I don't remember what headers I went with. I THINK I went with the summit racing branded ones (which are almost certainly made by someone else and just rebranded). When I am trying to keep costs down I go with the unpainted summit ones and paint them with the flat aluminum thermal paint and I have had very good luck with that.
I read that some 80’s Jeeps with the gm 4 cylinder came with a bellhousing that has the gm engine mounting pattern, and the Ford T5 trans pattern. Not sure how accurate that is, but it could save you from having to use an adapter in that instance.
Excellent video friend, thank you very much for your experience. greetings from Mexico . Could you help me with the link of the piece to adapt, thank you
Great Video, hopefully something like this will work for me....been looking into 5 spd options on this. I have an '80/90's Chev 4.3L 90°V6, ex-Flex Plate (350ci÷2 cyls essentially) I'm planning to put it in an early Holden 🇦🇺. Cheers for your good work from over here👍
I don't see why it wouldn't work. The bolt pattern is the same and I think the same flywheel bolts up. If you run into any problems email me at acthecarguy@gmail.com and I'll try to help.
@@AustinCoulson Thanks very much for your swift reply mate. I might need that offer at some point...cheers. Hopefully should be a fairly straight forward swap. Some of our early Holdens had optional Holden straight 6..Holden V8 OR.....307/350...all had the same K...(I'll be going from what was a Holden straight 6) HANDY THING....It's possible to still buy the genuine or aftermarket Chev-Holden Mountings and they also fit this V6, in the same location as they would be on the V8 blocks...so I'm thinking🤔...Too easy🤗👍 My thoughts were, is the rear of crank different auto/man, which flywheel, which box, from which model etc etc etc etc...this vid helps me to look away from 2nd hand mix and match, and rather the aftermarket/perf. options. I'll sub now to be sure i can find you when I need some tips....lol. I have a few shorts vids up too you may find interesting🤔
@@simonilett998 I'll check your vids out. You guys got some pretty cool variants on GMs and Ford's that I am jealous of. Especially on I6s. I think one issue u may have is if the crank is rear balanced or not, as that changed the flywheel distance and what flywheel you use. The one is the video was externally balanced and you can tell because there is a large iron weight that sticks out and it uses a two part main seal. I seem to remember that most 4.3s I've worked on were internally balances with a one piece ream main seal but I'm not 100% sure
@@AustinCoulson Yep, mine definately has the one piece rear main seal...not the old rope stuff...and the weird offset crank journals of course. I haven't had a good look at the crank in a long time....no large weights on the original flex plate that I recall, and never saw the t.c, but I do still have the plate for retro...lol...I bought just the engine, no trans..pretty much complete top to bottom, air cleaner to sump, no electrics...many many years ago, it was a virgin bore when I stripped it down👍
@@AustinCoulson I have a BW 0507 5spd (cast steel i think, ally top cover) behind the L6 currently...would you happen to know if it's possible to get a bell/flywheel/clutch combo to suit this box or is it maybe too weak for the torque of the mighty 4.3?
Correct. Using that trans will make the swap easier, however the Ford T5 (post 1990) has carbon fiber liners on the synchros and increased nickel content in the gears which IMO makes it a much better candidate behind a SBC (and they are easier to find, at least where I live). I have , however known many guys who have ran the v6 GM T5 without issues.
Great Video, getting ready to do the same on a C10 build with a SBC 305 engine. If you don't mind, what is the paper manual that you are referring to in the video and where can I get it? Many thanks
Thank you for the information Austin. What did you do about the starter? I bought everything you listed but it looks like my starter isn't going to line up with the flywheel teeth.
This was a while ago so I can't remember the part number on the starter, but I remember it was a summit brand starter and I simply had to count the number of teeth on the flywheel to get the right one. I believe they may even make one that has multiple bolt holes to work with different flywheels. If you get the part number, can you post a comment here in case someone else has the same issue in the future?
Thanks! I have been driving it, and it's an absolute beast. The overdrive allowed me to swap the rear end from a 2.41 to 3.23 with posi and still cruise on the freeway at 2000 rpms at 65mph but still accelerate hard. I will have an update video soon!
Great video! Incredibly detailed! I got a small block chevy from 92 c1500 that I'm planning on putting in my Nissan d21 truck! I just got a T5 transmission at the local junkyard! I wanted too ask, does the bellhousing have too be a Muncie or will any sbc bellhousing work with the adapter plate? Thanks for your time!
The bellhousing has to be the SBC-Muncie for the adapter i used to work, but there are plenty of other adapters out there. If you use a different bellhousing/adapter setup just know some of the measurements may be different along the way. Good luck on your build, that sounds like a fun project
@@AustinCoulson thanks for the response! I was originally going too mate the stock manual transmission from my d21 to the small block 350, but after watching your vid...it's sooo much easier! All the guess work is taken out! Thanks again!
@@almagam2099 the T5 is amazing behind the SBC. I did a follow up video of the trans in the camaro you may wanna check out. The tire diameter on your Nissan should be similar to the Camaro I did so the gear ratios with the T5 should be perfect
@@AustinCoulson I'll def check it out! I used too own a 25th anniversary Ford mustang a few years back! I'm pretty sure it had the same transmission?!! It was a v6, but man, did she haul butt! The T5 shifted smooth as silk and more than handled the torque and horsepower!
@@almagam2099 that would have been a T5, but the V6 ones were just a little different. Different gear ratios and less nickel content in the gears if I'm not mistaken
Nice! I'm starting AMC Rogue SCRambler clone. Ive been racking my brain for a setup. I wanted to go with the T10P-1B, But sourcing and money started looking real unappealing. I wanted to stay true to the T10, but hey i'm dropping in a 383 stroker. This looks like it would be nice on the highway. How is it at the track?
So this is a ford transmission correct? What slip yoke are you using for the drive shaft and with the adapter do you have to shorten the driveshaft or no? I have the opportunity to get a T5 from a 93 GT mustang for next to nothing and I’d like to put it into my IROC-Z doing something similar to what you’ve done here.
Yes it's a Ford trans from a 92 5.0 mustang. The slip yoke is the Ford and was left on it when I got the trans. I did have to shorten the driveshaft, so I took the slip yoke and the stock Chevy driveshaft to my local driveshaft shop and they swapped the front yoke, cut and balanced it for 160$. I'm not sure what motor you have in your IROC-Z, but some people have expressed concern over higher hp on the T5s. I'm running a 305 with FITECH fuel injection and an edelbrock intake so it's still under 250hp I'm sure, but a built 350 may be pushing the limits of the trans. The 93 is a good T5 and I'm not mistaken it had the highest hp rating and carbon fiber clutches, but if I were you, I'd do some googling before digging in especially if you are adding power later. That being said I LOVE THIS TRANS SWAP! THIS Camaro screams.
ACtheCarGuy / my 350 is basically a stock vortec 350 with a dual plane intake and an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. The rating from summit is 255 hp and 330 tq. It’s just a driver no track duty or anything like that. I found a bellhousing from speedway motors (pn 91027001) that has both the Chevy and ford patterns for $300
@@limabravo6065 I'm not familiar with that bell housing but my only concern would be the distance that the transmission sits behind the motor. The bell housing and adapter run just under 340$ for both, so for 40$ difference it would only be worth it if you didn't have to build a spacer to move the trans back. The HP and TQ specs sound like its right on the edge of what the T5 is rated for but I'm sure on the mustang forums you'll find lots of guys with more HP on the stock trans so it might be fine since it won't be abused.
ACtheCarGuy Well from what I can tell if I remove the ford input shaft and bearing retainer and swap those part out for the gm parts from an f-body everything should be good to go. As far as I can see the T5 in the mustang and that from the Camaro are the same so far as length goes, and the shifter is in the same spot. What I’m thinking I can do for the output shaft is have the ford slip yoke installed on my drive shaft. The ujoint cup sizes are the same. Now I’m just speculating here if I’m wrong please let me know
@@limabravo6065 I think you are on the right track overall. If the trans is the same length and the u joints are the same size you can swap the slip yoke out and there is always a little wiggle room on slip yokes since they slide back and forth with the suspension so .5 in either way should be fine. If you swap the input shaft and bearing retainer to the GMC style you should he good on the length but you will have to use a different clutch disc and pilot bushing than the ones in the video (I think the shorter input shaft is a 28 spline, so I think you'd use an s-10 clutch)
Great video man! I’m looking up info on manual swapping my 94 f body LT1. As I understand the LT1 is same as SBC so the setup shown in the video would bolt directly to a LT1? What would be best T5 to find? I have a T5 In a 91 s10 2.5 4 cylinder lying around but not sure if it’s a good option. T56 is worth more than this car so not an option right now. I’m sure a t5 would do fine behind a stock LT1.
The block is the same (at least from my memory) so no issues there. The S10 T5 is a boat anchor, only useful in low hp applications as it is weaker and has different gearing. You'll want a World Class T5 from a 92-95 Ford Mustang if possible as it has higher nickel content on the gears and carbon fiber clutches as well as the perfect gear ratio for your F Body, but any Mustang T5 should be fine if you keep it under 300hp.
Why not find the 5 speed from a junkyard or craigslist Camaro or Firebird? The LT-1 had a 5 speed option, right? If you are swapping from automatic to manual, wouldn't swapping factory GM parts be easier and better? That 4 cylinder t5 would bite the dust behind a LT-1 if it's running right.
Check out at 13:00 I show the bleeder up close, it's on the top, it just might look like its on the bottom once the hoses come out of the bell housing. It was quite easy to bleed, I used a mightyvac since I did it myself but now I have a pneumatic bleeder I like even more.
.15" for this TOB, as the disc wears the teeth move out and that gap slowly closes. If it's too loose, it won't disengage the clutch, if it's too tight, it will accelerate disc wear.
Going to be doing this swap in my nephews 97 Nissan hardbody and was wondering what headers are those, if you have the part # would be great. They look like they will fit perfectly, thanks in advance
Oh gosh, this was many cars ago for me so I don't know exactly, but i know I got them from summit and they were definitely on the cheaper side. I did a video on the camaro this went into and I may have mentioned them in that video or shown them close enough to get the name.
Great video! BTW.....do you know if a late model Chevy manual transmission bolt pattern will bolt up to my 1968 small block Chevy bell housing? Will an S10 or Silverado transmission work? I'm looking around for a transmission now. Thanks.
I have seen it done, but I don't know if an adapter is required. I believe the s-10 T5 came on both the 4cyl and the 4.3, and have heard that you must run the 4.3 T5 if you put it behind a small block as the 4cyl one is weak. The 4.3 should have the same bellhousing as the older small blacks so I would imagine that would be straight forward to swap. I have heard that even the 4.3 T5 isn't as strong as the WC T5 that came behind the last generation Fox body mustangs, but I don't have any data to back that up, just hearsay. I am not sure what manual trans came in the Silverados as i've never seen a manual one.
Are you saying you have a bellhousing you are wanting to bolt on to a new trans? I do not think any of the LS transmissions would work for that, they are all over 4 bolts between the bellhousing and the trans itself I believe. Any LS transmission with the bellhousing on it will have the correct bellhousing bolt pattern to properly mate to a old small block. What I do not know is if you will have input shaft and starter clearance issues. I think the LS transmissions have more input shaft sticking out away from the bellhousing. Someone correct me If I am wrong. The NV3500 is the manual transmission that came with 4.8 and 6.0 Silverados as well as the 4.3 S10s. It has the 90* bellhousing that will bolt up to a old small block. Those transmissions were 10 spline I believe, you would have to get the correct clutch and flywheel for that. The NV3500 Silverado transmissions are obviously tougher, but I know that BetterOlds here on RUclips has used a NV3500 out of an S10 on his 5.3 and it has worked well. A t56 would be ideal, but it will cost you dearly. Again, I do not know any starter or input shaft length clearances you might run into, but the bellhousing will bolt up, minus the additional hole straight up on the LS bellhousings that do not exist on the Gen 1 small blocks. Good luck
Using a hydraulic clutch is the best way to go. I just did a E4OD to a T-18 4 speed swap and I used a hydraulic clutch set up as well.....Bro did you grease that pilot bushing well? I had an S-10 Blazer with a 5 speed .
If you are talking about the guide for the throw out bearing, I think the easiest solution is the one I show at the end where you just the head off a longer bolt
@@AustinCoulson yeah.. thats what I'm talking about.. i always do things on the cheap.. "not out of laziness, but due to stupid money bs, lol. And i hear ya, nylon nuts could overheat and wear out. Plus all-thread "the threads" might chafe the throughput lever thingy?? Anywhozy.. ☮️
@@privateprivate1865 if you are doing this swap on the cheap, you might consider using a traditional style clutch fork with either mechanical linkage or hydraulic master-slave setup. Would save you up to 600$ as the hydraulic throw out bearing is the most expensive part of this swap, often more expensive than the used transmission
I just found this vid I need to know what the shifter location would be am building a 76 Monza and not a lot of room dont want to SHIFT FROM THE BACK SEAT
This was quite a while ago so I don't remember for sure, but I am pretty sure I just looked up what would have been the stock flywheel on the vehicle this was going in (1979 Camaro).
With the s10 bearing retainer what bearing did you use because mine the mustang trans has a different bearing and the s10 t5 style bearing is to big to fit the mustang output shaft?
That's a good question. The Camaro was barely running when I took on this project so I couldn't tell you exactly but the owner said it seemed a lot better. That may be mostly from the Fitech though
You don't have you, you can use any retainer you want, you just may have to modify it. I went with the Chevy retainer because it has a smaller outer diameter to let me use the hydraulic TOB I wanted. If you keep the linkage style TOB, then you could use ford forks and a ford TOB with the chevy clutch, it would just take some adjustments and maybe some shortening of the retainer sleeve. The benefit would be that it's a lot cheaper for normal linkage than a Hydro TOB
@@AustinCoulson oh okay I didn’t know if it was a must, I may do a hydro TOB because I’m gonna be limited on space. Thanks for the advice! I’m workin on a sbc 5 speed swapped bmw e30!
@@tylerbroadbent3148 that sounds like an awesome swap. The Hydro TOB is great for a smooth clutch feel, but the real benefit is what you mentioned; space space space. It takes up almost none as it's all inside the bell housing and you have no linkage, just a hose to route. Good luck on the project, and you should definitely post a video of it to RUclips if you are able
@@tylerbroadbent3148 the box truck is just to store the shop stuff for the move, I got a travel trailer to live in while we find a place to build a house and shop
No problem I’m putting a s10 t5 with the Ford bolt pattern behind a sbc just have to change the input shaft to the one in that trans and it should work
Awesome video! It is helping me get through my swap on my 87 Monte. Only problem I’m having is I bought the 2120 adapter and a 1352-027-003 retainer and the retainer diameter is too large and does not fit in the adapter properly, do you have any thoughts on this ?
www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-BEARING-RETAINER-CHEVY-S10-ALL-T5-WC/281650577051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 This is the Bearing retainer I use, it fits on the Ford T5 and lets the Hydraulic TOB fit over it. I am not familiar with the 2120 adapter is that for the TOB or something else?
Oh I see now, the 2120 is the Hotrodworks adapter. I thought that your TOB wasn't sliding over the bearing retainer shaft. It sounds like the outer portion of the bearing retainer is coming into contact with the 2120. I have seen this when using the Ford bearing retainer. If you are going to keep using the Ford retainer, you will need to grind down the 2120 to allow it to slide over. Keep in mind, you won't be able to use the hydraulic TOB I use because the shaft diameter on the retainer is larger as well. I recommend using the S10 retainer I listed since it is only 30$. If you want to run standard clutch linkage and keep the Ford retainer, it would be a lot cheaper, but the linkage might be annoying to get dialed in. If you do grind away to make the Ford retainer fit, the adapter will still be centered because it self centers on the bolts, not the retainer. Good Luck! Reply back if you get stuck again
Austin Coulson I did buy the s10 retainer and it doesn’t fit. I bought the same part number you used in your video, that’s what’s weird about this. Thank you
Did you subtract the thickness of the hot rod works bracket that goes on the Bellhousing when you measured for the hydraulic throughout bearing shims etc.? Believe it or not I got lucky and I’m doing the same exact thing you are or did but I’m using an 83T5 non world class from a mustang. No matter what I do even after I trim the input shaft from an S 10 basically everything that you put part wise I got and my measurements are still not right the only thing I’m using is a different brand hydraulic throw out bearing but the overall goal of being off by .150 is still the same
The adapter doesn't effect the shims because the adapter rides outside of the bearing retainer which is what holds the shims. Did you install an S10 bearing retainer or are you using the factory Ford one?
I been looking for a video like this I'm planning on swapping my auto 305 c10 to a manual t5 and this helped so much. I just gotta find the other components
Good luck on your build. I can't recommend this swap enough, the T5 is so wonderful behind a 305/350. FYI, You can save a ton of money going with a stock style slave cyl and clutch fork, I just don't prefer them.
That truck was available from the factory with a 5 speed manual. Why not use the full GM setup instead of screwing around with incompatible Ford parts?
@@hooligans_garage7465 are you considering putting the T5 behind a turbo LS? If so I would love to hear about the results as the T5 isn't rated for that much power, but I've personally seen them handle way more than they are rated on Ford motors. I've seen them behind LS swaps, but never a turbo LS
The car this went in was an automatic originally so I decided on the Hydraulic TOB for the conversion. If it had a slave, I would have used the bracket and fork you mentioned
Thanks! Those headers are cheapies, I think they are the cheapest ones that summit or jegs sells. They were unpainted so I had to install them, run it to operating temp to get the rust coating off, then clean and paint them.
Great video. I'm considering a T5 swap behind a Chevy 348. My concern is the torque rating of the T5 being able to handle a stock 348 250 HP engine's torque output. It's rated at 353 lb. ft. I don't race it, it's just a cruiser but I need the OD. Any thoughts? Thanks.
That's definitely outside its rating, but I have seen guys push 500hp through a T5 with no issues. I think it comes down to how it's used. Dumping clutches on these can result in all kinds of damage inside. If you do use a T5 try to find a 92+
Do you know what it would take to put a 1971 small block Chevy 307 motor in a 1995 C1500 Chevy 5 speed original transmission pickup? A friend says they don't work together.
My throw out bearing retainer is already 3 3/8” long. From a camaro. Think it’ll work since it’s 1/4” shorter than what your instructions said? I have the same type of adapter but from a different company and it says I can use S10 or camaro retainer.
There is no adjustability between the engine-bellhousing-adapter-transmission, the bell housing is centered with sleeves on the engine, the hotrodworks adapter centers the transmission to the bell housing with tapered bolts that come with the kit. The pilot bushing verifies the final centering
This was a 305 SBC. From what I remember the 4.3 has the same bellhousing as the SBC and same crank flange so I don't think there is anything that wouldn't directly fit the 4.3. I believe it's all the same part numbers.
If I remember right, both ford and chevy 10 splines are the same size, but I used a chevy clutch setup because although the ford disc should work, you'll want the chevy pressure plate to bolt to the flywheel
I still dont understand what a local guy did here to fit a 1994 camaro v6 t5 to a 1983 305 camaro, he said he drilled out a sbc bell housing then lined up the v6 t5 trans and welded the trans to the housing?
I'm not 100% sure but it sounds like instead of using an adapter plate to make it work, he just welded it. If I'm not mistaken the bell housing to engine pattern would be the same on an 84 305 and a 94 4.3 V6, so the difference would be that the 84 would've originally been equipped with a 4 speed with a different bell housing to transmission pattern, but so long as the length of the two bell housing was the same, and he lined up the pilot busing to input shaft he could weld them together.
@@AustinCoulson I just realized that you used a mustang t5, the guy that I mentioned, he used a 3.4 v6 t5 with the ford bolt pattern, but has the gm shaft with 26 spline teeth, he welded "ears" on the ford bolt pattern to match the munic pattern onto the sbc bellhousing, would the shaft be the same length as the 80s v8?,
@@bigbl0ck28 I'm not quite sure. I have never swapped input shafts on a t5 before to make a swap work, as I prefer to use the T5's that have the Ford 10 spline shaft since you can just use a standard GM 11 clutch since the clutch disc is also a 10 spline. I've heard of guys using a 26 spline gm input shaft because for one reason or another they were using a clutch disc that had 26 splines.
@@AustinCoulson so since my t5 is in a 1994 firebird, it already has the chevy bearing retainer and hydraulic throughout?? This should just be a simple bolt together for me without any modification?, what about input shaft length is the mustang t5 the same length as the fbody v6 t5?
Hey, I was curious on your thoughts in regards to leaving the T5 in a mustang and mating it to a 5.3 I understand the limitation of the T5. I figure its the most cost effective way to go manual 5.3 in a fox. What are your thoughts on the bell housing and throw out bearing?
I assume you are talking about a GM vortec 5.3 In a Fox body Ford? Boy that combo would rub some people the wrong way. Not me, though, I think that's a fine idea. I don't think the same bell housing I used would work for you, but the throw out bearing would work as it rides on the transmission bearing housing. It would be cheaper to hook up mechanical linkage, but I like hydraulic TOBs, and the extra cost to me is work saving the headache of linkage on a custom ride. Others will tell you the transmission isn't rated for the HP or tq the 5.3 puts out and they are right, but I've seen guys run 450hp on a stock T5 so as long as you know how to drive without putting unnecessary stress on the trans, you should be fine. If my assumptions on motor are correct and you move forward with this idea, you can reach out to me if you need help sourcing the correct bell housing.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I should have clarified. Yes, I would like to mate a GM 5.3 to a T5. Ive seen some guys run T5’s pretty hard with mildly built 5.0 liters and they seek to hold up. I am aware of the risk of it coming apart though.
@@Gregoman89 In case it is not too late, I have a T5 up against a 2000 5.3 in my S10. I used a 1993 WC T5 out of a v6 camaro, a 621 reproduction bellhousing, a hot rod works adapter just like his, 1973 Chevelle BBC clutch, Sachs 1050 flywheel (literal lifesaver), and a Howe hydraulic throw out bearing with a remote bleeder I bought from speedway. In 1993, the GM t5s changed their bolt pattern to a ford style, hence the adapter. If I would have known that before I bought the trans, I would have bought a mustang T5 like Austin so that the shifter would be straight up. The camaro t5s have a 18 degree twist that I had to correct with my shifter lever once I replaced the original clocked bellhousing with the straight up 621 bell. The sachs 1050 flywheel is a lifesaver, it is for a manual transmission found in the 4.8 and 6.0 Silverados and it is the LS crank bolt pattern but the clutch pattern is for a BBC chevelle clutch. I do not know your application but I kept the original S10 clutch master cylinder as well (11/16) , I did not need the recommended 5/8 master but my pedal throw is just really long. As far as the t5 holding up, I have had no problems yet. My 5.3 should be right at 300 horse to the flywheel and have romped on it about 10 times now with no issues. Both the ford and GM transmissions work, but I would probably argue the ford is a little better because of the straight up shifter. You could replace a GM t5 tailhousing with an S10 one, but that was more money than what I was willing to spend. Good luck
Weird question but i am trying to build this same set up for a minitruck but i am EXTREMELY limited on room. Do you, or anyone else know the total length of motor and the trans together so i can try to map the placement of the motor out before i order the transmission. Thanks!
The slip yoke was the factory mustang yoke and I just took it to my driveshaft shop along with the stock Camaro driveshaft and told them the length of the new one and they built me one. They just matched up the u-joint cup sizes on the yoke and driveshaft to pick one out.
Great video brother! Hey I'm trying to do the same for my firebird i got the full swap from a 80s Camaro Here is my problem, maybe you can help me with some pointer The flywheel don't match with the crankshaft, the flywheel is smaller, i read that it's because of the different generations in the 350 Chevy engine Can you shine a light on this problem? Thanks brother
There are a few different gm small block flywheels. Off the top of my head I believe some generations were internally balances or externally balanced. I also believe there are two different weights of flywheels so you have to be careful you don't install the wrong one. Shoot me an email at acthecarguy@gmail.com with as much info as you can and pictures if possible and I'll see if I can help
@@AustinCoulson 400s and 350s with 400 cranks, that's the 383s are usually externally balanced, 163 or 8...tooth I think! ...dam memory! Some Big blocks also are externally balanced, the rest are the 153s and internal!
Could you use the stock ford bearing retainer with a ford TOB on a chevy clutch pack? Or do you need to switch the retainer to GM and just get a GM TOB?
Good question. I am not sure. If the TOB makes good contact with the pressure plate, then it should work just fine. I decided on hydraulic for feel and to simplify the conversion from an automatic car to a manual. If I already had manual clutch linkage I would have tried what you are suggesting.
Great question, the gm T5 is a 26 spline (at least the ones I've seen), some guys will swap the input shafts for a Chevy one to use the later 26 spline clutch disc. I prefer to keep the Ford 10 spline and use the older style GM 10 spline clutch disc. The GM and Ford 10 splines are the same diameter so they are interchangeable and there are a lot of options for GM clutches because a lot (if not all) of the GM 4 speed manuals used a 10 spline input shaft. Check out the part number I put in the video if you need more info on where to source the GM 10 spline clutch. Thanks for watching!
@@AustinCoulson I just got a 85 nwc 5 spd for 150 and now finding out I bought the sick kid of t5's. I may just buy a gforce case and astro gears for it because I am putting it behind a ls in a 86 short bed ranger
That's a solid idea. I'm sure you will want the strength since you can get basically unlimited hp out of an LS. It would give you room to grow hp without worrying about the trans. You building a sleeper or show truck?
The absolute top t5 swap video I have ever seen. Fantastic job. Thanks for your time with this!
Thanks! I'm still getting the hang of filming, but I like making these.
I second or third that! Thank you!
After reading all the comments, I am starting to think another transmission option exits that will accept most of the parts in this video! I am thinking of the ZF60 bolted in the early 90s to L98 SBC Camaros and corvettes!
Again my memory is all over the map these days, but didn't these early black label ZF60 had to have their input shafts changed so you could use them with LS motors? I am thinking L98 is the same as a first generation SBC so it should work!
@@AustinCoulson have you put a T5 behind an LS? Do you know if anyone makes a T5 kit for an LS?
@@tommyflores5963 I haven't because the T5 isn't rated for LS power, but I have seen it done. 5 of the 6 bellhousing bolts on the adapter I use will line up with the LS as will the dowel pins. I'm not sure what clutch you would use because I am not sure if the small block one I used will mount to the flywheel
@@AustinCoulson would the T5 handle a boosted application?
Great video ...I like how u put the part number and part name on the side as your going
Thanks! Drives me nuts when guys make a how-to and don't share part numbers!
I just finished a T5 swap on a 63 ford fairlane and I got a lot of help and parts from Modern Drivelines. They are very knowledgeable about these swaps. Nice Job on yours BTW
Thanks for nice comment. I did a T5 in a 63 Falcon and I loved it. Mine had a V8 swap, but I would like to put this trans behind an I6 powered Falcon someday.
Fantastic video with A LOT of great information! I just completed the same kind of swap in a 1977 Corvette! Used an adapter plate from speed gems. Currently editing the footage! Really wish i had this video when we did it.
Thanks for the kind words, let me know when the video is up, I'd love to see it! I was just trying to make it simple enough so more people try it because it is a really fun mod.
Would that be doable in a 3 day weekend by yourself?
I have a 77 corvette and I'd like to do teh same thing. Is your video up?
There is some great info here but I think it is still simpler to seek out a World Class T5 from a Camaro and save the cost and possible misalignment issues of an adapter. For my 1970 C-10, I used a Camaro WC T5 and was able to bolt it directly to my original bell housing. The Camaro T5 is tougher to find but they are out there if you spend some time looking.
I agree it is easier to do the swap as you suggested. The Ford WCT5, specifically the 92+ years are quite a bit stronger with higher nickel content and carbon fiber synchros. They are also quite a bit easier to find for most people and usually cheaper. I thought this video may be helpful to people that are running a little more power from their 350 than the Camaro T5 could handle. Glad you are running a T5 in your C10, that is a really fun setup, and the 68-72 C10's and K5s are one of my favorite looking Chevys.
This is the exact comment I’m looking for. Trying to bolt a 1988 z28 camaro T5 5 speed to a SBC 327 in my 71 c10.
Best video I have ever seen in RUclips. Very clear explanation.
Thanks! I worked really hard to try to make it easy enough so anyone could do it, and comments like this keep me motivated
Very well done. Well lit, good camera angles, I just need the details and that's what I got! Thanks for a great, very informative vid!
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful
This video is extremely helpful, I’m building my new daily and I probably would have given up and put a automatic in my car if it wasn’t for this video
Glad to hear! What vehicle are you putting a manual in?
@@AustinCoulsonsir thanks for your help
I have a question can I swap a 5.3 or 6.0 on a 1999 Chevy Silverado with the 4.3 and nv3500?
I put a T-5 from a '86 Chevy S-10, 2WD pickup in my '53 Chevy pickup with the original 6 banger engine. The T-5 has the same bolt pattern, just drill the holes to a 1/2 inch, uses same release bearing, same pilot bearing, but not the same clutch disc. The biggest thing is, you have to change the rear end to open drive shaft and differential. With the overdrive 5th gear it's like a different truck, and it looks like it came in the truck. 5 gears sure beats 3.
I've done a couple T5s on the only 140-200 I6 Fords and you are right, it's like whole different vehicle. I'm curious why you would have to run an open diff? I have run this trans with plenty of locked rear ends
@@AustinCoulson What I meant was that the 53 Chevy PU had a closed driveshaft and you have to change the driveshaft and the differential, but it doesn't matter if it's open or LSD.
@@tootsie5052 Ahhh, I misunderstood. That makes a lot more sense now.
halfway through this video and it is helping a lot thank you!
Thank you sir, I have had an '81 AMC Spirit in mothballs since '19 because I had no clue how I was going to make the clutch work on my SBC to Ford T5 swap...
Nice video, I like how thorough you are with the parts, part #s, and where you got them. I’m looking at buying a 95 Chevy 1500 4x4 with a v8 and 5spd. #SAVETHEMANUALS
That's a great vehicle. I love the OBS Chevy's. Watched a guy hydro-lock a motor on one. Pulled the plugs in the middle of the creek, cranked the starter, shot tons of water out, reinstalled them and it ran perfectly afterwards. Watched another guy overheat one until it locked the motor solid. after a couple hours it cooled, made a loud cracking noise, then it restarted and ran perfectly (with creek water in the radiator and a raw egg to seal the radiator leak). Truly a bulletproof drivetrain...
I’m doing the reverse! I’m pulling the T5 I put in my 67 mustang 15 years ago and installing an AOD so my wife will enjoy driving it more (I bought it for her!)
Thanks for this video helped me a lot! I did the same except i got a 26 spline input shaft from geforce and put a t5 behind an LS.
Hey nice vid. When I did my video on the T56 to SBC I settled with a fork rather than a throw out bearing. Wonder if I’ll regret that. 🧐
Did you use a hydraulic slave or mechanical linkage? Either way, I bet you saved a lot of money. The hyd TOB costs as much as a used transmission
Amazing work thanks for sharing makes our life easy and it’s perfect video
Great video, well explained, part numbers too.😉👍.
this was a great show,THANK's
Great info, just saved alotta people alotta time. Thanks
Fantastic video! Looking at swapping a T5 into my ‘67 with a 250 inline 6
T5 on an old, underpowered I6 is one of my favorite mods. I like to put the T5 behind a 200CI Ford in a little light car.
If you use the s10 tail housing, it moves the shifter forward more stock in older chevys.
Could you make a list of all this stuff ? You said it would be in the description but I don’t see it, I’m trying to do this swap on my 79 nova and could greatly use the information as I’ve never done a swap in general and once done will be my first manual on my first car I ever bought, driving around a classic a 20 years old that I built myself is a dream of mine. Love your content and appreciate the time it takes to make these videos!
Nice job great instruction
Just bought a 1969 k20 it already has a 5 speed. Seems to work great except 1st and second seem too low... It seem second is not low enough to take off in. Guess the transmission will have to have 2 gears swapped out. Great video
Great video and I learned so much. Thanks for sharing.
I done the same thing with mine last year. Ive been wanting to show people how to do it but i havnt got to it. Took a ton of pictures. I used a 95 t5 though so i had to put a spacer between the engine and bellhousing because the input shaft in the 95 was much longer and i also had to trim some off of the tip of the input shaft.
Speeday makes an adapter pilot bushing but its very long so i just cut it in half so it didnt stick way out
Also dikota digital makes a speedometer adapter to run a factory manual cable driven speedometer off of the ford t5 or tko transmissions. You also need a conversion u-joint to make the driveshaft work.
I too am swapping a later gen t5 (94 wc t5) to my small block 350, what size spacer was needed to achieve the required tolerance?
Or run a die of the right thread over the threads that are there now and then use the nut to tighten it against the trans to keep in place along w loctite would be another alternative to welding
If only you can build me one or live in NC. Nice great video!
The manual linkage is way better than hydraulic .No leaks always works unless there is a mechanical failure .Butter feel manual than hydraulic !
I've seen way more issues with manual linkage than hydraulic and I prefer the feel of hydraulic, but I know plenty of people that feel the way you do. Just a preference I guess.
Couldn't help but notice your headers, do you mind posting make and part #. Thanx
Gosh this was many years ago so I don't remember what headers I went with. I THINK I went with the summit racing branded ones (which are almost certainly made by someone else and just rebranded). When I am trying to keep costs down I go with the unpainted summit ones and paint them with the flat aluminum thermal paint and I have had very good luck with that.
I read that some 80’s Jeeps with the gm 4 cylinder came with a bellhousing that has the gm engine mounting pattern, and the Ford T5 trans pattern. Not sure how accurate that is, but it could save you from having to use an adapter in that instance.
I have heard that as well, but never verified it.
Wow! Where did you learn all these skills? I know a little,but you're top notch!
Great presentation and video. Liked and subscribed.
It’s a very good setup.
Excellent video friend, thank you very much for your experience. greetings from Mexico . Could you help me with the link of the piece to adapt, thank you
I’m curious, what the distance is from front of bell housing to centre of shifter, I’d like to do the same for my 55 Belair. thanks great video
I'm not sure. You may want to try to ford mustang forums to get that info, or search around for t-5 world class specs
Perfect explanation
This is an awesome video AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME
Excellent video. Thanks.
I think this video is how I found your channel.
I got a Chevy G20 I would love to do this to
Great Video, hopefully something like this will work for me....been looking into 5 spd options on this.
I have an '80/90's Chev 4.3L 90°V6, ex-Flex Plate (350ci÷2 cyls essentially)
I'm planning to put it in an early Holden 🇦🇺.
Cheers for your good work from over here👍
I don't see why it wouldn't work. The bolt pattern is the same and I think the same flywheel bolts up. If you run into any problems email me at acthecarguy@gmail.com and I'll try to help.
@@AustinCoulson Thanks very much for your swift reply mate.
I might need that offer at some point...cheers.
Hopefully should be a fairly straight forward swap.
Some of our early Holdens had optional Holden straight 6..Holden V8 OR.....307/350...all had the same K...(I'll be going from what was a Holden straight 6) HANDY THING....It's possible to still buy the genuine or aftermarket Chev-Holden Mountings and they also fit this V6, in the same location as they would be on the V8 blocks...so I'm thinking🤔...Too easy🤗👍
My thoughts were, is the rear of crank different auto/man, which flywheel, which box, from which model etc etc etc etc...this vid helps me to look away from 2nd hand mix and match, and rather the aftermarket/perf. options.
I'll sub now to be sure i can find you when I need some tips....lol.
I have a few shorts vids up too you may find interesting🤔
@@simonilett998 I'll check your vids out. You guys got some pretty cool variants on GMs and Ford's that I am jealous of. Especially on I6s. I think one issue u may have is if the crank is rear balanced or not, as that changed the flywheel distance and what flywheel you use. The one is the video was externally balanced and you can tell because there is a large iron weight that sticks out and it uses a two part main seal. I seem to remember that most 4.3s I've worked on were internally balances with a one piece ream main seal but I'm not 100% sure
@@AustinCoulson Yep, mine definately has the one piece rear main seal...not the old rope stuff...and the weird offset crank journals of course.
I haven't had a good look at the crank in a long time....no large weights on the original flex plate that I recall, and never saw the t.c, but I do still have the plate for retro...lol...I bought just the engine, no trans..pretty much complete top to bottom, air cleaner to sump, no electrics...many many years ago, it was a virgin bore when I stripped it down👍
@@AustinCoulson I have a BW 0507 5spd (cast steel i think, ally top cover) behind the L6 currently...would you happen to know if it's possible to get a bell/flywheel/clutch combo to suit this box or is it maybe too weak for the torque of the mighty 4.3?
4th gen V6 camaro t5s have the same spline as a t56 and will bolt right up to that glange too... but have electric vss
Correct. Using that trans will make the swap easier, however the Ford T5 (post 1990) has carbon fiber liners on the synchros and increased nickel content in the gears which IMO makes it a much better candidate behind a SBC (and they are easier to find, at least where I live). I have , however known many guys who have ran the v6 GM T5 without issues.
Nice. I used hanlon motorsports conversion kit on my tko. Works great behind 383.
People say they can't take the power of a 383, but I have never had an issue.
And in a pickup giving it the blues. Lack of traction saves it alot I'm sure
Great Video, getting ready to do the same on a C10 build with a SBC 305 engine. If you don't mind, what is the paper manual that you are referring to in the video and where can I get it? Many thanks
That is just the instructions that came with the parts
Damn good video. Part numbers, cost.. Fuckin dope.
Thank you for the information Austin. What did you do about the starter? I bought everything you listed but it looks like my starter isn't going to line up with the flywheel teeth.
This was a while ago so I can't remember the part number on the starter, but I remember it was a summit brand starter and I simply had to count the number of teeth on the flywheel to get the right one. I believe they may even make one that has multiple bolt holes to work with different flywheels. If you get the part number, can you post a comment here in case someone else has the same issue in the future?
Looks good. Have you given it a test run? Is there an update video? Cheers!
Thanks! I have been driving it, and it's an absolute beast. The overdrive allowed me to swap the rear end from a 2.41 to 3.23 with posi and still cruise on the freeway at 2000 rpms at 65mph but still accelerate hard. I will have an update video soon!
Great video! Incredibly detailed!
I got a small block chevy from 92 c1500 that I'm planning on putting in my Nissan d21 truck! I just got a T5 transmission at the local junkyard! I wanted too ask, does the bellhousing have too be a Muncie or will any sbc bellhousing work with the adapter plate? Thanks for your time!
The bellhousing has to be the SBC-Muncie for the adapter i used to work, but there are plenty of other adapters out there. If you use a different bellhousing/adapter setup just know some of the measurements may be different along the way. Good luck on your build, that sounds like a fun project
@@AustinCoulson thanks for the response! I was originally going too mate the stock manual transmission from my d21 to the small block 350, but after watching your vid...it's sooo much easier! All the guess work is taken out! Thanks again!
@@almagam2099 the T5 is amazing behind the SBC. I did a follow up video of the trans in the camaro you may wanna check out. The tire diameter on your Nissan should be similar to the Camaro I did so the gear ratios with the T5 should be perfect
@@AustinCoulson I'll def check it out!
I used too own a 25th anniversary Ford mustang a few years back! I'm pretty sure it had the same transmission?!!
It was a v6, but man, did she haul butt!
The T5 shifted smooth as silk and more than handled the torque and horsepower!
@@almagam2099 that would have been a T5, but the V6 ones were just a little different. Different gear ratios and less nickel content in the gears if I'm not mistaken
Nice! I'm starting AMC Rogue SCRambler clone. Ive been racking my brain for a setup. I wanted to go with the T10P-1B, But sourcing and money started looking real unappealing. I wanted to stay true to the T10, but hey i'm dropping in a 383 stroker. This looks like it would be nice on the highway. How is it at the track?
Most of these are only rated at 300 Ft. Lb. torque....
Did you show the adapter plate being bolted in or put in between the trans and bellhousing ?
So this is a ford transmission correct? What slip yoke are you using for the drive shaft and with the adapter do you have to shorten the driveshaft or no? I have the opportunity to get a T5 from a 93 GT mustang for next to nothing and I’d like to put it into my IROC-Z doing something similar to what you’ve done here.
Yes it's a Ford trans from a 92 5.0 mustang. The slip yoke is the Ford and was left on it when I got the trans. I did have to shorten the driveshaft, so I took the slip yoke and the stock Chevy driveshaft to my local driveshaft shop and they swapped the front yoke, cut and balanced it for 160$. I'm not sure what motor you have in your IROC-Z, but some people have expressed concern over higher hp on the T5s. I'm running a 305 with FITECH fuel injection and an edelbrock intake so it's still under 250hp I'm sure, but a built 350 may be pushing the limits of the trans. The 93 is a good T5 and I'm not mistaken it had the highest hp rating and carbon fiber clutches, but if I were you, I'd do some googling before digging in especially if you are adding power later. That being said I LOVE THIS TRANS SWAP! THIS Camaro screams.
ACtheCarGuy / my 350 is basically a stock vortec 350 with a dual plane intake and an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. The rating from summit is 255 hp and 330 tq. It’s just a driver no track duty or anything like that. I found a bellhousing from speedway motors (pn 91027001) that has both the Chevy and ford patterns for $300
@@limabravo6065 I'm not familiar with that bell housing but my only concern would be the distance that the transmission sits behind the motor. The bell housing and adapter run just under 340$ for both, so for 40$ difference it would only be worth it if you didn't have to build a spacer to move the trans back. The HP and TQ specs sound like its right on the edge of what the T5 is rated for but I'm sure on the mustang forums you'll find lots of guys with more HP on the stock trans so it might be fine since it won't be abused.
ACtheCarGuy
Well from what I can tell if I remove the ford input shaft and bearing retainer and swap those part out for the gm parts from an f-body everything should be good to go. As far as I can see the T5 in the mustang and that from the Camaro are the same so far as length goes, and the shifter is in the same spot. What I’m thinking I can do for the output shaft is have the ford slip yoke installed on my drive shaft. The ujoint cup sizes are the same. Now I’m just speculating here if I’m wrong please let me know
@@limabravo6065 I think you are on the right track overall. If the trans is the same length and the u joints are the same size you can swap the slip yoke out and there is always a little wiggle room on slip yokes since they slide back and forth with the suspension so .5 in either way should be fine. If you swap the input shaft and bearing retainer to the GMC style you should he good on the length but you will have to use a different clutch disc and pilot bushing than the ones in the video (I think the shorter input shaft is a 28 spline, so I think you'd use an s-10 clutch)
Great video man!
I’m looking up info on manual swapping my 94 f body LT1. As I understand the LT1 is same as SBC so the setup shown in the video would bolt directly to a LT1? What would be best T5 to find? I have a T5 In a 91 s10 2.5 4 cylinder lying around but not sure if it’s a good option.
T56 is worth more than this car so not an option right now. I’m sure a t5 would do fine behind a stock LT1.
The block is the same (at least from my memory) so no issues there. The S10 T5 is a boat anchor, only useful in low hp applications as it is weaker and has different gearing. You'll want a World Class T5 from a 92-95 Ford Mustang if possible as it has higher nickel content on the gears and carbon fiber clutches as well as the perfect gear ratio for your F Body, but any Mustang T5 should be fine if you keep it under 300hp.
Why not find the 5 speed from a junkyard or craigslist Camaro or Firebird? The LT-1 had a 5 speed option, right? If you are swapping from automatic to manual, wouldn't swapping factory GM parts be easier and better? That 4 cylinder t5 would bite the dust behind a LT-1 if it's running right.
I NEED the parts list
Did you have a problem getting the air out of the throw out bearing?the bleeder is on the bottom. Should be on the top.
Check out at 13:00 I show the bleeder up close, it's on the top, it just might look like its on the bottom once the hoses come out of the bell housing. It was quite easy to bleed, I used a mightyvac since I did it myself but now I have a pneumatic bleeder I like even more.
Great video! How did you make the speedometer work with the Ford parts?
We used Dakota digital gauges so it simply uses a pulse sensor that plugs into the back of the trans
what kinda clearance between the clutch disk and release bearing retainer should there be?
.15" for this TOB, as the disc wears the teeth move out and that gap slowly closes. If it's too loose, it won't disengage the clutch, if it's too tight, it will accelerate disc wear.
Going to be doing this swap in my nephews 97 Nissan hardbody and was wondering what headers are those, if you have the part # would be great. They look like they will fit perfectly, thanks in advance
Oh gosh, this was many cars ago for me so I don't know exactly, but i know I got them from summit and they were definitely on the cheaper side. I did a video on the camaro this went into and I may have mentioned them in that video or shown them close enough to get the name.
What flywheel did you get?
Great video! BTW.....do you know if a late model Chevy manual transmission bolt pattern will bolt up to my 1968 small block Chevy bell housing? Will an S10 or Silverado transmission work? I'm looking around for a transmission now. Thanks.
I have seen it done, but I don't know if an adapter is required. I believe the s-10 T5 came on both the 4cyl and the 4.3, and have heard that you must run the 4.3 T5 if you put it behind a small block as the 4cyl one is weak. The 4.3 should have the same bellhousing as the older small blacks so I would imagine that would be straight forward to swap. I have heard that even the 4.3 T5 isn't as strong as the WC T5 that came behind the last generation Fox body mustangs, but I don't have any data to back that up, just hearsay. I am not sure what manual trans came in the Silverados as i've never seen a manual one.
Are you saying you have a bellhousing you are wanting to bolt on to a new trans? I do not think any of the LS transmissions would work for that, they are all over 4 bolts between the bellhousing and the trans itself I believe. Any LS transmission with the bellhousing on it will have the correct bellhousing bolt pattern to properly mate to a old small block. What I do not know is if you will have input shaft and starter clearance issues. I think the LS transmissions have more input shaft sticking out away from the bellhousing. Someone correct me If I am wrong. The NV3500 is the manual transmission that came with 4.8 and 6.0 Silverados as well as the 4.3 S10s. It has the 90* bellhousing that will bolt up to a old small block. Those transmissions were 10 spline I believe, you would have to get the correct clutch and flywheel for that. The NV3500 Silverado transmissions are obviously tougher, but I know that BetterOlds here on RUclips has used a NV3500 out of an S10 on his 5.3 and it has worked well. A t56 would be ideal, but it will cost you dearly. Again, I do not know any starter or input shaft length clearances you might run into, but the bellhousing will bolt up, minus the additional hole straight up on the LS bellhousings that do not exist on the Gen 1 small blocks.
Good luck
@@codyhaynes4471 This is all good info. I forgot about the nv3500 because they are so rare, but that would be a good swap.
Using a hydraulic clutch is the best way to go. I just did a E4OD to a T-18 4 speed swap and I used a hydraulic clutch set up as well.....Bro did you grease that pilot bushing well? I had an S-10 Blazer with a 5 speed .
I put a little sand in the pilot bushing so it's all good.
@@AustinCoulson Sand? Oh a wise guy ay?
@@unclequack5445 hahaha I forgot I wrote this. Yes I greased it
@@AustinCoulson I like your content Sir.
I'm curious if I could use a piece of all thread with some nylon nuts for the guide?
If you are talking about the guide for the throw out bearing, I think the easiest solution is the one I show at the end where you just the head off a longer bolt
@@AustinCoulson yeah.. thats what I'm talking about.. i always do things on the cheap.. "not out of laziness, but due to stupid money bs, lol. And i hear ya, nylon nuts could overheat and wear out. Plus all-thread "the threads" might chafe the throughput lever thingy?? Anywhozy.. ☮️
@@privateprivate1865 if you are doing this swap on the cheap, you might consider using a traditional style clutch fork with either mechanical linkage or hydraulic master-slave setup. Would save you up to 600$ as the hydraulic throw out bearing is the most expensive part of this swap, often more expensive than the used transmission
I just found this vid I need to know what the shifter location would be am building a 76 Monza and not a lot of room dont want to SHIFT FROM THE BACK SEAT
The shifter ended up in the same place as the automatic floor shifter on the 79 Camaro this went into
Well done video!...
I didn't see a part number for the flywheel unless I missed it. What flywheel did you use
This was quite a while ago so I don't remember for sure, but I am pretty sure I just looked up what would have been the stock flywheel on the vehicle this was going in (1979 Camaro).
With the s10 bearing retainer what bearing did you use because mine the mustang trans has a different bearing and the s10 t5 style bearing is to big to fit the mustang output shaft?
Any MPG Improvement?, looks good.
That's a good question. The Camaro was barely running when I took on this project so I couldn't tell you exactly but the owner said it seemed a lot better. That may be mostly from the Fitech though
Do you have to use the chevy bearing retainer? And awesome video!
You don't have you, you can use any retainer you want, you just may have to modify it. I went with the Chevy retainer because it has a smaller outer diameter to let me use the hydraulic TOB I wanted. If you keep the linkage style TOB, then you could use ford forks and a ford TOB with the chevy clutch, it would just take some adjustments and maybe some shortening of the retainer sleeve. The benefit would be that it's a lot cheaper for normal linkage than a Hydro TOB
@@AustinCoulson oh okay I didn’t know if it was a must, I may do a hydro TOB because I’m gonna be limited on space. Thanks for the advice! I’m workin on a sbc 5 speed swapped bmw e30!
@@tylerbroadbent3148 that sounds like an awesome swap. The Hydro TOB is great for a smooth clutch feel, but the real benefit is what you mentioned; space space space. It takes up almost none as it's all inside the bell housing and you have no linkage, just a hose to route. Good luck on the project, and you should definitely post a video of it to RUclips if you are able
@@AustinCoulson I sure will! And I seen you got a box truck camper too is that right? And I’m turning my 94 g10 shorty into a weekend camper as well!
@@tylerbroadbent3148 the box truck is just to store the shop stuff for the move, I got a travel trailer to live in while we find a place to build a house and shop
Video was much help do you know the exact length of the mustang input shaft??
I can't remember off the top of my head
No problem I’m putting a s10 t5 with the Ford bolt pattern behind a sbc just have to change the input shaft to the one in that trans and it should work
Can't use a Ford Cable Throw out bearing?
Awesome video! It is helping me get through my swap on my 87 Monte. Only problem I’m having is I bought the 2120 adapter and a 1352-027-003 retainer and the retainer diameter is too large and does not fit in the adapter properly, do you have any thoughts on this ?
Stand by, I'ma look up those parts
www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-BEARING-RETAINER-CHEVY-S10-ALL-T5-WC/281650577051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
This is the Bearing retainer I use, it fits on the Ford T5 and lets the Hydraulic TOB fit over it. I am not familiar with the 2120 adapter is that for the TOB or something else?
Oh I see now, the 2120 is the Hotrodworks adapter. I thought that your TOB wasn't sliding over the bearing retainer shaft. It sounds like the outer portion of the bearing retainer is coming into contact with the 2120. I have seen this when using the Ford bearing retainer. If you are going to keep using the Ford retainer, you will need to grind down the 2120 to allow it to slide over. Keep in mind, you won't be able to use the hydraulic TOB I use because the shaft diameter on the retainer is larger as well. I recommend using the S10 retainer I listed since it is only 30$. If you want to run standard clutch linkage and keep the Ford retainer, it would be a lot cheaper, but the linkage might be annoying to get dialed in. If you do grind away to make the Ford retainer fit, the adapter will still be centered because it self centers on the bolts, not the retainer. Good Luck! Reply back if you get stuck again
Austin Coulson I did buy the s10 retainer and it doesn’t fit. I bought the same part number you used in your video, that’s what’s weird about this. Thank you
@@87jeepyj1 Very strange what's the overall diameter of the S10 one vs the Ford you removed and whats the ID on the 2120?
Did you ever have any issues with hydraulic clutch braided lines leaking?
Never
Did you subtract the thickness of the hot rod works bracket that goes on the Bellhousing when you measured for the hydraulic throughout bearing shims etc.? Believe it or not I got lucky and I’m doing the same exact thing you are or did but I’m using an 83T5 non world class from a mustang. No matter what I do even after I trim the input shaft from an S 10 basically everything that you put part wise I got and my measurements are still not right the only thing I’m using is a different brand hydraulic throw out bearing but the overall goal of being off by .150 is still the same
The adapter doesn't effect the shims because the adapter rides outside of the bearing retainer which is what holds the shims. Did you install an S10 bearing retainer or are you using the factory Ford one?
@@AustinCoulson the same as you. S10
Do you have the part number for the flywheel? I can't seem to get the right flywheel, I have a 1980 block and the newer flywheels won't bolt up
What is all of the part numbers for the stuff that I will need
All of the part numbers are in the video
I been looking for a video like this I'm planning on swapping my auto 305 c10 to a manual t5 and this helped so much. I just gotta find the other components
Good luck on your build. I can't recommend this swap enough, the T5 is so wonderful behind a 305/350. FYI, You can save a ton of money going with a stock style slave cyl and clutch fork, I just don't prefer them.
That truck was available from the factory with a 5 speed manual. Why not use the full GM setup instead of screwing around with incompatible Ford parts?
My.truck was not a manual.
Great video, I have a turbo Ls with a Muncie, Did u use a gm t5 bearing retainer?
Yes I did. Does retainer doesn't fit the adapter or the TOB I used
Right on that’s what I was finding by the measurements. Thanks for the reply man appreciate it!
@@hooligans_garage7465 are you considering putting the T5 behind a turbo LS? If so I would love to hear about the results as the T5 isn't rated for that much power, but I've personally seen them handle way more than they are rated on Ford motors. I've seen them behind LS swaps, but never a turbo LS
No my Muncie is built, the t5 is going behind a mild 6.0 for my cousin.
@@hooligans_garage7465 perfect
Could've used a hydraulic slave cylinder with factory fork set up. They sell the bracket to bolt outside the bellhousing
The car this went in was an automatic originally so I decided on the Hydraulic TOB for the conversion. If it had a slave, I would have used the bracket and fork you mentioned
Oh. Cool.
Which headers are those?
Great job by the way!
Larry
Thanks! Those headers are cheapies, I think they are the cheapest ones that summit or jegs sells. They were unpainted so I had to install them, run it to operating temp to get the rust coating off, then clean and paint them.
Great video. I'm considering a T5 swap behind a Chevy 348. My concern is the torque rating of the T5 being able to handle a stock 348 250 HP engine's torque output. It's rated at 353 lb. ft. I don't race it, it's just a cruiser but I need the OD. Any thoughts? Thanks.
That's definitely outside its rating, but I have seen guys push 500hp through a T5 with no issues. I think it comes down to how it's used. Dumping clutches on these can result in all kinds of damage inside. If you do use a T5 try to find a 92+
Do you know what it would take to put a 1971 small block Chevy 307 motor in a 1995 C1500 Chevy 5 speed original transmission pickup? A friend says they don't work together.
a 307 is just a stroked 283 and it should have the same bellhousing as the 95 trans assuming it was bolted up to a small block
I have a 4.8 chev what's the best T5 to use please
Where are you from and if I buy all the parts, can you help me do this if I pay you?
I am in Spokane, WA now. I can help if you are close
My throw out bearing retainer is already 3 3/8” long. From a camaro. Think it’ll work since it’s 1/4” shorter than what your instructions said? I have the same type of adapter but from a different company and it says I can use S10 or camaro retainer.
That all sounds correct but I don't remember if I have used one like that before
Did you dial in the bell housing to center the input shaft on motor crank?
There is no adjustability between the engine-bellhousing-adapter-transmission, the bell housing is centered with sleeves on the engine, the hotrodworks adapter centers the transmission to the bell housing with tapered bolts that come with the kit. The pilot bushing verifies the final centering
Nice job
What motor were you connecting the trans to? I want to do this in an 89 s10 4.3, but want to make sure I get everything parts-wise.
This was a 305 SBC. From what I remember the 4.3 has the same bellhousing as the SBC and same crank flange so I don't think there is anything that wouldn't directly fit the 4.3. I believe it's all the same part numbers.
Wicked ! Do you think this would fit my 1985 corvette 4+3 ?
Not sure if it would require and cutting or hammering on the trans tunnel to get it to fit, but it sure would make it more fun to drive.
Chevy or Ford clutch disk? I thought Ford Input shaft splines was different diameter?
If I remember right, both ford and chevy 10 splines are the same size, but I used a chevy clutch setup because although the ford disc should work, you'll want the chevy pressure plate to bolt to the flywheel
I still dont understand what a local guy did here to fit a 1994 camaro v6 t5 to a 1983 305 camaro, he said he drilled out a sbc bell housing then lined up the v6 t5 trans and welded the trans to the housing?
I'm not 100% sure but it sounds like instead of using an adapter plate to make it work, he just welded it. If I'm not mistaken the bell housing to engine pattern would be the same on an 84 305 and a 94 4.3 V6, so the difference would be that the 84 would've originally been equipped with a 4 speed with a different bell housing to transmission pattern, but so long as the length of the two bell housing was the same, and he lined up the pilot busing to input shaft he could weld them together.
@@AustinCoulson I just realized that you used a mustang t5, the guy that I mentioned, he used a 3.4 v6 t5 with the ford bolt pattern, but has the gm shaft with 26 spline teeth, he welded "ears" on the ford bolt pattern to match the munic pattern onto the sbc bellhousing, would the shaft be the same length as the 80s v8?,
@@bigbl0ck28 I'm not quite sure. I have never swapped input shafts on a t5 before to make a swap work, as I prefer to use the T5's that have the Ford 10 spline shaft since you can just use a standard GM 11 clutch since the clutch disc is also a 10 spline. I've heard of guys using a 26 spline gm input shaft because for one reason or another they were using a clutch disc that had 26 splines.
@@AustinCoulson so since my t5 is in a 1994 firebird, it already has the chevy bearing retainer and hydraulic throughout?? This should just be a simple bolt together for me without any modification?, what about input shaft length is the mustang t5 the same length as the fbody v6 t5?
@@bigbl0ck28 I am not sure on the input shaft lengths for the Mustang vs Fbody T5's, but I would imagine it would simply bolt up
Hey, I was curious on your thoughts in regards to leaving the T5 in a mustang and mating it to a 5.3 I understand the limitation of the T5. I figure its the most cost effective way to go manual 5.3 in a fox. What are your thoughts on the bell housing and throw out bearing?
I assume you are talking about a GM vortec 5.3 In a Fox body Ford? Boy that combo would rub some people the wrong way. Not me, though, I think that's a fine idea. I don't think the same bell housing I used would work for you, but the throw out bearing would work as it rides on the transmission bearing housing. It would be cheaper to hook up mechanical linkage, but I like hydraulic TOBs, and the extra cost to me is work saving the headache of linkage on a custom ride. Others will tell you the transmission isn't rated for the HP or tq the 5.3 puts out and they are right, but I've seen guys run 450hp on a stock T5 so as long as you know how to drive without putting unnecessary stress on the trans, you should be fine. If my assumptions on motor are correct and you move forward with this idea, you can reach out to me if you need help sourcing the correct bell housing.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I should have clarified. Yes, I would like to mate a GM 5.3 to a T5. Ive seen some guys run T5’s pretty hard with mildly built 5.0 liters and they seek to hold up. I am aware of the risk of it coming apart though.
@@Gregoman89 In case it is not too late, I have a T5 up against a 2000 5.3 in my S10. I used a 1993 WC T5 out of a v6 camaro, a 621 reproduction bellhousing, a hot rod works adapter just like his, 1973 Chevelle BBC clutch, Sachs 1050 flywheel (literal lifesaver), and a Howe hydraulic throw out bearing with a remote bleeder I bought from speedway. In 1993, the GM t5s changed their bolt pattern to a ford style, hence the adapter. If I would have known that before I bought the trans, I would have bought a mustang T5 like Austin so that the shifter would be straight up. The camaro t5s have a 18 degree twist that I had to correct with my shifter lever once I replaced the original clocked bellhousing with the straight up 621 bell. The sachs 1050 flywheel is a lifesaver, it is for a manual transmission found in the 4.8 and 6.0 Silverados and it is the LS crank bolt pattern but the clutch pattern is for a BBC chevelle clutch. I do not know your application but I kept the original S10 clutch master cylinder as well (11/16) , I did not need the recommended 5/8 master but my pedal throw is just really long.
As far as the t5 holding up, I have had no problems yet. My 5.3 should be right at 300 horse to the flywheel and have romped on it about 10 times now with no issues.
Both the ford and GM transmissions work, but I would probably argue the ford is a little better because of the straight up shifter. You could replace a GM t5 tailhousing with an S10 one, but that was more money than what I was willing to spend.
Good luck
I think that sounds like a killer combo if you ask me.
Cody Haynes thank you for the reply. It’s not too late. I’ve put my project on hold with everything going on.
Why not just use a fine thread dye on the stud?
I've never tried changing threads without drilling out the old threads and increasing the diameter. It seems like it wouldn't be as strong.
Weird question but i am trying to build this same set up for a minitruck but i am EXTREMELY limited on room. Do you, or anyone else know the total length of motor and the trans together so i can try to map the placement of the motor out before i order the transmission.
Thanks!
Sorry, this was so many years ago I cant remember
What size u-joint and slip yoke did you use?
The slip yoke was the factory mustang yoke and I just took it to my driveshaft shop along with the stock Camaro driveshaft and told them the length of the new one and they built me one. They just matched up the u-joint cup sizes on the yoke and driveshaft to pick one out.
Hey man do you have a parts list for this?
I show them on the screen as I go, but I don't have them written down anywhere else.
Question, wouldn’t it had been easier to use a world class out of an 88-90 v8 camaro/firebird?
Yes, but they are harder to find and more expensive. At least where I live...
do you know if this will work the other way around? muncie t5 to a 302 block
You would just need different adapters and a different clutch. This is pretty much the same way to do any manual trans swap
Great video brother!
Hey I'm trying to do the same for my firebird i got the full swap from a 80s Camaro
Here is my problem, maybe you can help me with some pointer
The flywheel don't match with the crankshaft, the flywheel is smaller, i read that it's because of the different generations in the 350 Chevy engine
Can you shine a light on this problem?
Thanks brother
There are a few different gm small block flywheels. Off the top of my head I believe some generations were internally balances or externally balanced. I also believe there are two different weights of flywheels so you have to be careful you don't install the wrong one. Shoot me an email at acthecarguy@gmail.com with as much info as you can and pictures if possible and I'll see if I can help
@@AustinCoulson 400s and 350s with 400 cranks, that's the 383s are usually externally balanced, 163 or 8...tooth I think! ...dam memory! Some Big blocks also are externally balanced, the rest are the 153s and internal!
Could you use the stock ford bearing retainer with a ford TOB on a chevy clutch pack? Or do you need to switch the retainer to GM and just get a GM TOB?
Good question. I am not sure. If the TOB makes good contact with the pressure plate, then it should work just fine. I decided on hydraulic for feel and to simplify the conversion from an automatic car to a manual. If I already had manual clutch linkage I would have tried what you are suggesting.
Gm is input shaft is 26spline how are you using the mustang one?
Great question, the gm T5 is a 26 spline (at least the ones I've seen), some guys will swap the input shafts for a Chevy one to use the later 26 spline clutch disc. I prefer to keep the Ford 10 spline and use the older style GM 10 spline clutch disc. The GM and Ford 10 splines are the same diameter so they are interchangeable and there are a lot of options for GM clutches because a lot (if not all) of the GM 4 speed manuals used a 10 spline input shaft. Check out the part number I put in the video if you need more info on where to source the GM 10 spline clutch. Thanks for watching!
@@AustinCoulson I just got a 85 nwc 5 spd for 150 and now finding out I bought the sick kid of t5's. I may just buy a gforce case and astro gears for it because I am putting it behind a ls in a 86 short bed ranger
That's a solid idea. I'm sure you will want the strength since you can get basically unlimited hp out of an LS. It would give you room to grow hp without worrying about the trans. You building a sleeper or show truck?
@@AustinCoulson little patina'd pro touring style mini truck or as my wife calls it my scoot scoot.