How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
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Well this was a fun one to make. I believe I covered everything but if you feel I haven't please let me know in the comments below as well as any tips you might have to add as well. I'm not trying to make a big deal about "pound feet" or "foot pounds" I'm just trying to put that out there, the important thing is that you get the proper torque and get the job done right in my opinion, what you decide to call it is up to you.
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Very well explained. Good to see the appreciation of what engineers want to get from preloaded bolt joint. A few comments from engineering point of view:
1. the most accurate way to get the correct bolt preload is with initial tightening. re-tightening torque gives you much bigger torque scatter even if the torque wrench is set to initial torque.
2. by cleaning the bolt thread with a wire wheel you are making two things: you make the thread surface a lot rougher which results in high thread friction that decreases your bolt preload; you increase the embedding losses in the bolt thread which results in the bolt relaxation (some loss of preload) by flattening the spikes in surface roughness.
⁰p pp 0⁰⁰p p⁰⁰
"Wire wheel", that's just high speed burnishing! Whidh is it 'thread surface a lot rougher' or 'flattening the spikes' - make up your mind!
I'm not an engineer but I could see that being problematic
Your fluent chose of word makes you an amazing teacher, so easy to learn from, and all your tips are worth a bounty.
Thanks for sharing your skills.
Believe it or not the foot pounds only refer to the force being applied to the bolt not the tightness of the bolt itself. That is why the guy tells us to clean thread etc. he is smart not dumb at all.
@diorije You actually answered your own question, the tap is to create threads whereas the thread chaser is there to clean the threads. Great question and thanks for the comment.
people look up to the Rock, or even Dolph Lundgren, The real ROCKST@R, my man eric
@9b8 Torque procedures vary depending on application, I have seen some like you suggest, it's really up to the engineers as they put in the time to find out what works best and then write it into their service procedures.
my manual says that when ever the bolt starts making a creaking sound you have to take it out and redo it
nope nope Yes. This is a video how NOT TO torgue head bolts;)
@@grzegorz16100 cuz a guy with decades in the industry has ruined so many cars right? Use your head
@@socknetea I have seen people with decades of "experience" who can't do shit. That doesn't prove anything. It might be that his headgasket will last 5 years instead of 10-20.
I appreciate your videos Eric. As a do-it-yourself kinda guy, I am prepping for my first custom Engine build based on a 460 Big Block Ford. It's great to have tips and re-torquing techniques like this when I need them regardless of make/model. Thank you!
Actually I wouldn't use one of those torque angle gauges for 90 degrees. They can slip and it's far easier to just make a mark with a sharpie and turn it 90 degrees. For angles that aren't 90, 180, and 270 degrees, then I resort to the stupid torque angle gauge.
or you can do sin, cosin or tangent to determine what lb/ft is the degree you need
That doesn't make sense. Trig functions relate an angle to its two-dimensional components. The torque required to achieve a particular angle beyond the first torque depends on friction and material deformation. Tightening by angle is generally more uniform than tightening to the same measured torque anyway, which is the point.
ollopa1 m
@@jon-erikbutcher3609 5l specification on cons rods bearing torque
Good morning Eric , I'd like to start by saying thank you for taking your time to make these videos. This is really good material for many of us that have a different profession but love working a cars. I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx that comes equipped with a KA24DE 2.4L DOHC motor that comes with 155 hp stock. I turboed this engine and upped the horsepower to about 310 hp. Now I've come across the limit for the stock internals. I bought a spare block that I plan to build. It will be the first
It's only a matter of time before Miley Cyrus gets into automotive repair and starts torquing.
Jajaja! Lol. 👍
Hey Eric, first of all, very grateful for you taking the time and effort to educate all of us. secondly i have given my car in to a very well known workshop for a complete engine overhaul and after watching your video I'm concerned about the torquing of the bolts on the head, not sure if they use tools similar to yours anyways, very informative and I'm going to suggest they follow your method, I'm subscribed and will be tuned in for more. Thank you once again.
Metric always beats American measurements.
We civilized folk prefer to have a system which converts sizes (centimeter/meter) in consistent magnitudes.
Metric:
10 milimeters in one centimeter
100 centimeters in one meter
1000 meters in one kilometer.
The same numbers apply for weights and fluids.
American:
You guys don't even have anything smaller than inches, you just start making fractions.
12 inches in one foot
3 feet in one yard
1760 yards in a mile
The weights and fluids are also all over the place.
Most of us (American car guys) have them memorized quite well and cubic inches measure displacement more precisely than liters, although that's a different topic.
xxRamD3yruxx Metric is more accurate because metric measurements can be smaller than American standard.
Milimeters, micrometers, nanometers
ChrisHallett83 because when you say a 350 chevy is 5.7 liters you've undersized the engine by 35cc. I was not comparing cc to ci, but more of liter to ci. cc is even more acurate than ci although that's a large number to stick to the side of the car.
Dylan McElveen milimeters are close 32ths
anything smaller would be moving into scientific zone meaning: go metric, because science is in metric
Civilized is the man that identified and complimented those that are "past the stone ages" and use metric even though he's from a place that uses American measurements. Not the one that blatantly insults an entire nation of people that do, as you have now.
@MrTDM09 I'm glad I'm able to help with your automotive career, the world could use a few more good technicians in my opinion. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the K series, sounds like fun.
Anyone else hearing "Twerking"?
+Fact VS Conspiracy no
2256si99. kaleb
no
16:40
I bought a cheap brush kit with brass, nylon, and steel brushes from harbor freight and cleaned every bolt as well as sprayed them down with brake cleaner and lubed them with oil as well as the brake cleaner in each hole worked perfect! I also did not have any noise issues with the torquing sequence, but I did buy the 3/4 in torque wrench and 1/2 in torque wrench from harbor freight and worked liked butter.
@croom9 Thanks. I use a Sony HDR-SR11, nice little cam, she's held up well despite the rough use, I'd like to get another one soon so that I can do 2 camera shoots on some videos.
My 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches are my two favourite tools in my chest, keep up the great work Eric.
Eric, you've helped me countless times, saved me thousands of dollars, uncalualble hours, painful headaches and fits of rage. I pass all of this information to my boys, get them greasy and use the saved money on fun stuff for us! Thanks
@HondaGRST You can use that sequence but the important thing is to start in the center and work outward, not at the edges. I like to use OE parts whenever possible but I haven't had problems using the aftermarket gaskets that I've used so far, the important thing is the treatment of the head and the block (cleaning them properly) as well as the correct torque and sequence when installing the head.
i learned my lesson to lubricate the bolts and keep a steady torquing when worked on my 2003 Altima (TTY Bolts). i broke the bolt with that pinging noise because i did a stop and go. Got lucky the broken one came out real easy with a pick tool. love the video
I use a tall, 6-point deep impact socket to both remove and install head bolts, to eliminate using an extension on a shorter socket that can interfere with accurate torqueing. A 6-point socket is better than a 12-point on a bolt head that has 6 points (hex head) since it's less likely to slip, and might also make the torqueing a little more accurate.
Very good tutorial, especially covering handling and storing torque wrenches!
@letxen3 If the new bolts didn't come with washers don't install washers of your own. You could consult the service manual to see if washers were present to begin with if you wanted to be sure.
@ejsecco I've gotten a lot of different input on this one. On this particular engine however Honda actually says to lubricate the threads. I lubricate them so that I get a smooth transition to the torque value as any hiccups will give a false reading. Thanks for your input.
@IIGrayfoxII Thanks for the info and your comment. It's nice to see that you have embraced the 21st century, we are still working on that here in the states.
I love your tag line: stay dirty, that rocks. I've been retired from turning wrenches for approx. 10 years now and almost half of that time since, you can look at my hands and tell what I did for a living. Thank you for voicing every single point I ever tried to tell other mechanics about the proper use of a torque wrench. Not to be a know it all, but there is always a right and wrong way to do anything, and you hit on every single one that I ever learned. I always check your vid's first if I'm not sure if I'm remembering every detail about a certain repair I haven't done in some time, as I've found you seem to give the most concise and detailed info in such an understandable way. Thanks again. Later, bye.
Thanks for all your videos. I'm a DIY and the information you go over often fills in the gaps and holes that trained technicians just "know" and are not necessarily in the repair manuals.
@spelunkerd Use it only when the bolt is going to seal a passage, on some engine blocks the threaded holes for the water pump go into the water passage, this would be an appropriate time for sealant. Cylinder head bolts should NEVER have sealant put on them however as they don't seal a passage but rather fasten the cylinder head to the block. Consult the service manual whenever you have a question about the use of sealant in a particular application just to be safe.
@LeathanEre Personally I LOVE those wrenches, I wasn't kidding when I said they are some of my favorite tools. I prefer the clicker type because of cost. You can set up the digital type to beep when the specific torque is reached which may be a better indication since you sometimes hear that "ping" when you tighten some fasteners that can mask the "click" that you are looking for with a clicker type. Thanks for the great question and comment.
Eric is one of the few that will actually explain everything the way it should be done. Sharing knowledge is always great especially with those who are especially motivated about learning!! Thanks Eric;)
i full of admiration to the knowlauge that you are sharing you can be full of joy that god bless you with wisdom and you are using that gift to share and help others .
pls keep that in your mind when you are doing the videos . " you are full of wisdom and giving that wisdom to others . and help them to save money and time
Eric the car guy, I freaking love your videos. You're so informative and in depth. You always treat cars right, you the bomb man keep doing your thing! 19Years old and replacing my valve stem seals this weekend. Watched your videos for some insight along with a bunch of research. I'll let you know how it goes!
Thank you for the video! I'm going to torque the cylinder head onto my Evinrude outboard engine today and I've never used a torque wrench. This instruction was just what I needed.
@letxen3 No they don't. Don't install washers where there was none as this will effect their torque value. Make sure they are not stretch bolts, if they are then you will have to install new ones as you are not suppose to reuse them.
@ladabyturbo I don't think so, you don't want to use a grease that will dry up or put more pressure on the threads, oil works just fine.
@X2N18 The rule is to try and use the wrench that has the spec you looking to achieve in the MIDDLE of it's range, if it's close to one end or the other of the effective range of the wrench try to find another wrench where the spec is closer to the middle of it's operating range.
@LuieDiaz1 After a head gasket job you will have smoke for a while due to the contamination that gets onto the parts during assembly and disassembly, it takes a little while for it to burn off. If you suspect a head gasket issue I suggest you test for it instead of speculating, watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat video for details on that test.
Great job! I've been 'motivated' to do some car repairs myself and your videos are a God send, I feel somewhat confident I'll be able to do what I need to now. So thanks for posting Eric! :)
I would like to thank you for the way you are explaining procedure in proper way to replace gasket and torquing head bolts . Iv`e watched probally 100 or more videos on this due to me having to replace head on my 2000 Honda Accord 2.3 Coupe . Very detailed in procedure . much easier to understand and follow , I just hope I can remember where all the vacuum hoses go to when I get to that stage . Again Thank You , will follow more videos to do more on my car .
@qaz3000 That is referred to as a 'beam' type and I've been told they are actually more accurate than the clicker style. I used one for years before I bought my wrenches and never had a problem.
Man this video helped me a lot..i am replacing valve lifters on my firebird and your video show me a lot of things that i've heard before but i did not know how to do it..for example The TORQUE...i really want to thank you man for your video it is really helpfull...congratulations once againg on this excellent video tutorial...i will recommend it...thanks LUIS R...
@915Mustang Your right I didn't and I'm not saying that isn't a good idea but I've done it this way for years without any problems. Thanks for the comment.
Hey there, I used to be in the navy and was the calibration petty officer for my division and i had some comments about your torque wrench tips. (Not bashing just tips). First, kudo's on the "effective range" tip, the navy standard is if the torwure required falls within 20-90% of the wrenches range it will be accurate for the job. Next, if you make another video and mention the clicker, please mention the "breaking" function too. Kudo's on the video, i've always thought of making some.
Eric, since watching your videos I bought an 03 Civic, and have replaced a lot of stuff. Next up is front Quick struts, and some new Moog control arm bushings. I am going to use the newer ball joint style that I don't believe requires indexing (will definitely check and I know final torquing done with weight of vehicle on it). I have never really worked on cars, and probably could not have done it without your help! Thanks, Eric L.
@graffie Lets put it this way, 'grease' copper or otherwise on the threads WILL effect the torque and the reading. Second if they don't do that at the factory (which they don't) you shouldn't do it either.
Thanks for such a professional video.
Interesting that even after such careful preparation some bolts still turn down more than others.
dude,thanks for the video.it made me dig deeper in my manuel and found the three steps for my 4.0 jeep head to torque correctly.was very helpful.
@MrMunono You may have to take it back apart as you may have installed the gasket wrong. Also you NEED to torque the head according to the service manual procedure if you want the repair to last.
@mickeygovender In my experience it's not the valve seals that cause oil burning but the piston rings, you might want to do a leak down test to see what kind of shape the bottom end is in, I think you may find the rings are leaking more than you think, esp on cylinder 1 according to your posted readings.
It's amazing how many people don't use a torque wrench properly if at all. Thanks for a really good video!
@SovietSlayer There is nothing finer than a good torque wrench in my opinion. Good luck with that job and thanks for your comment.
@6speeddakota I don't recall using a 'degree wheel' for setting points but perhaps for dialing in a cam. It's been a while since I watched this if I said degree wheel I take it back, your terminology is more correct.
Thanks! I am about to buy my first car and this is really helpful! Much better than reading all the tutorials on "How To", etc.!
learned most of the basic things you talked about in my auto tech classes (this week actually)... man you are spot on... always enjoy watching your videos drives my passion for cars even more =]
Good vid mate, pleased that you mentioned the need for lube on threads and under the head of the bolt. Seems all to often the mention is made to clean or replace but nothing else.
@Patrick1776Henry Yea, fastener size is based on thread pitch and the diameter of the fastener itself NOT the head size so keep that in mind. Ex. if the bolt size is 10mm x 1.25, the diameter of the fastener is 10mm, the head size may be 14mm. This is actually an excellent question.
I have a Chevy Impala 2003 had a macanic change intake gasket got the car back it runs hot I've changed radiator, thermostat,fan, I have to bleed the air out the lines everyday. someone said the macanic may have not tourped it right would that cause air to get in the line every day
thank you Eric. I like the way you show step by step instructions on how to do the cylinder head. you help me once again thank you again
@fastvpbt1 Not really no, it's the smaller fasteners with small torque specs you have to watch out for as they can be tricky but the bigger fasteners like these usually aren't the problem if treated right.
When I check the torque on a pattern of bolts to make sure I got all of them, I just go around clockwise. This is alot easier then trying to remember where you have or haven't been.
You ever work on domestic V8's? I can see you driving an old school truck. Maybe you should show off some of your personal vehicles
@JDMnubi I usually do some from under the car and the others I use a 1/4" socket and ratchet. It's a lot easier after you remove the thermostat housing and the bracket under the intake.
@MYDRAGGIN84 Not really normal, if it's a Canadian model then the headlights are designed to come on when the ignition is put in the ON position. That should have nothing to do with the starting circuit however, perform the check that I recommend and see what you find.
Excellent video.
Left out...
-Try to keep your hands off the socket, extension, etc. while torquing. Hands on handle only. The friction from your grip can throw off the torque setting.
-Keep your hand in the center of the handle. Choking up on the handle/holding the end of it throws the torque off.
-Splitbeam torque wrenches dont have to be zeroed out.
-If you use offset wrench accs like crowsfeet you have to convert/adjust your setting to allow for the overall length extension of the wrench.
Eric great vid. I thought that I might answer the difference between taps and thread chasers.1; taps are tapered at the start of the tap thread chaser is not,2; taps have less and different shape flutes than thread chasers,3; taps cutting head is of different shape and angle than thread chasers, and this is the biggest reason to not use taps to chase threads as this losen the tolerence of the bolt to the bolt hole which could lead to the bolt comming lose later.
@robertbaxley A tap is designed to MAKE threads, you don't want to do that in this application so you use what is called a 'thread chaser' which is for CLEANING threads and won't alter the existing threads. I do what I can to try and keep up with comments but it's getting more difficult, my priority is to the website and my forum so I always go there first to answer questions if that helps you.
@flashdkr In your case you need to make sure the block and the head are OK as your problem may not be the gasket but a problem with the head or block, a machine shop should be able to help you with that.
@thepackman111 You loosen the fasteners in the reverse pattern that you torque them. EVERY cylinder head should be torqued to spec when doing this work.
@MYDRAGGIN84 Make sure the connections are good. Try seeing if you have 12V at the solenoid wire when you turn the key to crank, if you don't you might want to look to the ignition switch and the wiring. You also need to make sure the connections of the battery cables on both ends are good.
So good teaching and helpful. Wish i d known this 10yrs ago but really need it now. Thank you Eric.
@philosifur1 In some cases you are correct but years ago I read an article about just reinstalling warped heads and re-torquing them to spec (aluminum heads that is). I've been doing this for years with great success. I'm not saying don't check them but as I said I've had quite a bit of success with this method. Thanks for the input.
@sweetlikeADAM I don't think so but it's not a big deal if you do, just keep them in order, the caps are numbered and the direction is noted in the casting where they go back into place.
@mixwell1983 The issue I would have with that is that it might send the debris to the bottom of the hole, with a thread chaser there are cavities in the tool that capture any debris and will remove it from the hole.
@fastvpbt1 Honestly that depends on what's causing it, for starters make sure you are using the correct oil called for by the manufacturer. If you have noisy lifters I don't recommend using synthetic oil either as that can make it worse.
@TheChero6 They are worth every penny, I can vouch for that. At least for me the Snap-on truck didn't have the capability to calibrate the wrenches, he would send them off and give them back when they were done. While doing some research for this video online I found some of the tools they use in calibration, pretty cool really. Thanks for your comment.
this guy is very good at explaining the procedure, no offense but i kinda wanted to hate on you when i first clicked on the video but you sir have shown me the error of my ways
It sometimes worth drawing out a bolt plan on a piece of card and just number them
1 - 10 or whatever that way if you get called away to the phone you can carry on where
you left off. keep up the good work.
Hi Eric,
i am a beginner in assembly profession, i learnt a lot from your video. you did very well. i wanna be like you....
wish you all the best in all your path. have a good time, Eric... :)
@kevtay1000 No need to replace the bolts they are not torque to yield bolts. If there is a torque spec with a degree measurement as opposed to a torque value those are usually stretch bolts and require replacement.
Its a good thing in most cases. Since oils are almost non-compressible (compress about .5% for every 1000psi applied) that the oil acts as a filler and fills all the gaps between the mating surfaces in the end locking the bolt into place. The term for it is called "hydraulicing".
@branco445 If you just worked on it and now you have a noise the best course of action is to go back and recheck your work including the timing belt tension.
@costa83p I'm not saying OE is always the way to go but quality parts often make a big difference. You get what you pay for most times.
@gst69man Taps are designed to create threads not clean them. A thread chaser is designed just to clean and not alter the thread pattern. You can use a tap, it's better than nothing really but the ideal is to use a thread chaser. Yes, you will never stop buying tools doing this trust me.
@sparkscarz Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
I have a 2001 honda accord that needs a new head gasket...this video is exactly what i needed, Thanks Eric!
@foxdmulder I'm told it is best to have them inspected annually with regular use. Great question BTW.
Eric, I noticed just how much your videos have improved over time. The quality in editing is outstanding and the use of an HD camera makes you the best "How To" guy in the industry. Thanks for your hard work, or should I say hobby? :)
@TeDuaMalakie Good suggestion and I know it would work. The reason I wouldn't do it is because I'm broke and don't want to waste my gas on cleaning stuff. Thanks for the comment.
@PUREAAMERICAN Cool I didn't know they had the angle built in. Thanks for the comment.
awesome vid, doing my first head gasket change on an inline4 600cc motorbike engine. I was initially gonna use copper grease on the head bolts, but think i may use engine oil now
@testbooster I can answer your question right now by saying buy the complete set, the truth is that you don't know what your going to run into on a given day so you need a complete set of tools especially hand tools. Save your money and buy the entire set as it is an investment in your future an important one at that.
Hello eric, looks like this is an old video but was very useful for me. Thanks for explaining with so much detail when it comes to torque the cylinder head. I have learned much from you chanels , thanks again
@BoilerDan8787 You don't want too much oil in the holes or oil to pool in the holes as it will create a situation that could lead to hydrostatic lock, the small amount of oil on the threads will not cause this and allow for a more accurate torque setting.
@EricWaterTruck I would say that falls under "Stuff Happens". Sometimes it works out but when it's on camera well.....
Way cheeper to do a head gasket than swap the engine BTW.
One thing though.... Never leave the torquewrench set, when done screw ut out so that there is no pressure on the spring in it.... this will keep it accurate for a longer time... Love the vids by the way so thanx :o)
FYI: I have had this problem for years working on Honda's. I recently tried Lucas engine lube on the head bolts and everything went smooth!
eric you are the best mechanic ive ever seen
You will not find on youtube a better lesson on torque than this. Thanks Eric!
@stopthechem Thank you, glad you liked it.
Piston slap is caused by the piston being too loose in the cylinder bore...either from the cylinder wall being too worn down or if the engine was ever overhauled, oversized pistons were neglected in the reassembly. So really, the correct way to fix piston slap is to tear down the motor and install the correct size pistons, or re-sleeve the cylinder bore for the pistons you have.
I pour a cleaner into the head bolt holes and leave for 1 hour. I then use a small wire brush to loosen any foreign matter, after blow out. I only use a thread chaser only when the bolts tighten up somewhat when threading in by hand. I use a light engine oil on the bolt threads. Speed wrenches are ideal for screwing down, I never use a powered tool. A final tip - be careful when inserting the bolts into holes in the head as the threads could become nicked and damaged somewhat. After torquing down to the correct value apply to each bolt head a white/yellow/pink mark (same applies to con-rod and main bearing cap bolts) - from an ex-professional engine builder in Germany.