DIY SELF LEVELING CONCRETE FLOORS!! $1 per square foot
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- You have to see this! How to get professional quality, finished concrete floors in your home using Self Leveling Concrete and this AWESOME
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-Mike Montgomery
MODERN BUILDS
Hi, My name is Mike Montgomery and I'm a MAKER; a designer, builder, and full-time content creator. Accessibility is my focus with Modern Builds, not simply accessibility of designs, but accessibility in materials, information, and projects themselves. I've focused on creating furniture and DIY projects that are simple enough that any beginner maker can accomplish, yet interesting enough that any expert might be inspired. Building and making is becoming less and less of an exclusive hobby and profession. My goal is to reduce that separation even further. 
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Nice job guys! It looks great. I have a 70,000 sq foot 1927 five story office building. The floors are cement, but poured in small sections which are not level nor flat. Fine for carpet, but we wanted to change to wood (laminate planks). I am just a DIY, not a contractor, but I have done a LOT of these pours (200 to 2000 feet). The first step is we grind down the high spots at the corners and edges of each original pour. Then I like to use this self leveling stuff. It is SIX TIMES the cost of regular cement, but it flows like thick soup. It does NOT in fact self level all that well. Especially if you do it like these guys did, in large pours. The thing is, it sets in a flat amount of TIME, not by drying out (it is a chemical reaction), and that time is just a few minutes. You do not really have time to fuss with it, and if your next bucket is not ready pretty quick, the earlier pour will set before your next pour, and it will not be homogenous (you will end up with dry seams instead of a continuous pour). So, there are a couple of tools we use. One is the beveled cement float (like a push broom for shoving around cement)(A gage rake probably works too). This is used right after you pour a bucket to get it into the corners and edges quickly (time is of the essence). The second tool is the spiked roller (think pinhead on a 18 inch wide paint roller). This is used to QUICKLY smooth it all out and blend the different pours and pop any bubbles (careful not to push it too fast or it will spray cement all over your walls and pants), and do not overdo it, once the cement starts to set, it is game over. The shoes with spikes are cool if you need to walk into it and hit a corner and not ruin your sneakers. Also the cement dust while you are pouring the bags and mixing is very irritating. If doing it outside is not practical (limited time before it sets), set up a place inside (with a heavy drop cloth, it will make a serious mess A CEMENT MESS). I usually have 3-5 people to do it. Have a big trash can of water and a 10 quart bucket with a slot cut horizontally at the 6 quart level so you can quickly grab exactly the right amount of water (the water added needs to be precise). So I have 1 guy on the half inch mixing drill at the bucket, another guy pouring the dry bag into the bucket, and a 3rd guy holding the vacuum with a cyclonic dust extractor (DustDeputy). After the bucket is mixed, a 4th guy will bring it to active room, and pour it out. The final guy then uses the float and pin roller to blend it into the ongoing pour. Have 2 or more buckets in circulation so you can do it assembly line fashion. Note that it sets up and coats the buckets as you go (I can only imagine his trash can thing and spout getting clogged), so having a few extra is nice so you don't get hardened clumps in your pour. Do be sure to wet mop the floor and then put on the primer (like he says, 1 time 50% diluted and then 1 time full strength). The directions say to use a soft push broom to apply, but a cheap paint roller seems to work just as well for me (make it thick, a 3rd coat is not wrong). If you are sloppy with the primer step on an old floor, it will wick out the moisture too fast and in the morning you have a cracked useless mess to chip up and redo. f you don't tape the edges, it will flow right under baseboards or drywall (or cabinets or doors). DO not skimp on taping and sealing where you to NOT want the liquid cement to flow. Caulk cracks in the floor or it may flow through (to the floor below you). Also I can say from experience, this self leveling stuff is rather soft so do not expect it to be a walkable top coat. In fact the manufacturer's website is very clear NOT to leave it as the final surface, it is UNDERLAYMENT, although it is pretty, it is NOT durable, and a thin urethane coating will not make it suddenly durable (note however that there are professional self leveling mixes that ARE certified as a topcoat, but the ones I have found require an authorized installer to buy it).
Dayum... That's a lot of work!
But you've got it down to a science.
Could you not just use ultra fine ag at a really high slump and a bunch of super plasticizer and end up with better results for cheaper?
very good information, thanks for taking the time to type all that out.
You could just… pour it on the floor from the buckets…
Those buckets are extremely heavy. The wheels make 1-2 people work a bit easier. But yes if you had a crew pouring from buckets makes more sense!
@@pandaexpresso You mean the buckets they used to mix in, and then transfer to the trash bin? Same amount of energy. But this method uses more steps and is not going to let the material self level as well. This is a 1 to 2 person job.
True that.
Didn’t you see how it hardened up 4:45? If your consistently pouring you won’t get overlaps, it’s also faster, practically
If you wanna not do a nice job and easy clean up just pour on floor
Pro tip: Don’t post DIY videos unless you know what you’re doing
Seriously
That slurry will form fine cracks overtime, despite having been protected with a sealer. It might not do anything to the floor structurally considering it's a single storey house but it will be visible. Now, if you want to prevent that, lay down a layer of fine mesh (preferably a fibre mesh instead of a metal one as the latter would expand when the concrete sets, creating uneven waves) before pouring in the self-leveler slurry. The mesh will provide tensile strength, preventing any cracks from forming on the floor...
that is a good idea, do you secure the mesh to the floor with any sort of anchor or just lay it on flat with nothing holding it in place?
This isn't what this product is designed for, there are cold joins everywhere which will fracture and crack and there are no expansion joins anywhere. He should really do a update video in a year to see if it has cracked through the doorways, cold joins and see what damage the floor has received from general use
Not to mention this is just a slurry mix not concrete. There are going to be huge issues with this.
I wanna se the entire house after 3 years. As far as i have seen the videos it will start falling apart.
No one seems to know the difference between cement and concrete in the real world.
Yeah.. this house should be condemned. He also took a support beam out and placed a heavy brace in the roof that will likely collapse over time. I wouldn’t live here.
@@neondynamite If you ask me all the newer videos where he fiddles with the structual integrity should be taken offline because if people try this at home there is some serious danger.
I dont understand all the hate. For a two person job I really don’t see the suggested comments where they say it should just be “directly poured on floor” working out. Too many seams with walking back and forth and opening bags etc. I think this was an excellent way to build a tool that saved your back, your time, and a lot of headaches running around trying to prevent a seam from each bag. Great job
@modern builds ardex sells a nice spiked roller to hit those edges when pouring and lets blend everything and hit any dry lumps!
Every time a new modern builds video drops:
1. Click the thumbnail
2. Reduce volume by 50%
Just when I think you can't do anything better you go and outdo yourself. Well done my friend.
I've installed more than 1 million sq ft of Ardex K-15 self leveling underlayment in New York city rehab projects. Hat's off to you for thinking of a new way to dispense the mix, although it has some bugs to work out. On big projects we used a concrete pump and gauge rakes set to 1/4 inch to guide the mix where it needs to go. We then went over it lightly with a long handled type of float to break the surface tension and allow it to flow better. Once it cures you are always going to get tiny hairline cracks that are actually mostly a cosmetic issue, and not a structural problem. It should be sealed with a clear water based matte urethane because it will continuously dust off and you will always have it on your feet if you don't. These materials were designed to go under finished flooring, and not to be the actual floor.
Do you mind sharing what sort of concrete pump you used? I have tried searching online for something similar and have only found very large scale industrial equipment.
@@bcarl10101 concrete pumps tend to be big industrial machines. There aren’t many small pumps.
At the end of the video he used a BEHR sealer is that the same as the matte urethane or something different.
would you recommend that product for a DIYer? considering this instead of LVP (i have some really bowed wooden subfloors)
@bcarl10101 Ardex will rent a small pump delivered to your site. If the pour is under 2000' its not worth it at all.
What a massive waste of time just pour it from the mixing bucket and roller it. It’s self levelling just prime and seal the floor so the old floor does not dry it out and it will flow on it’s own
used the same sealer and yes, freaky slippery. after about 3 months of walking carefully use and multiple vinegar and mrs meyers mops, it's normal smooth. rugs still slip around and need rubber pads tho.
I think that this is a SCAM.
I am very concerned this will crack.
It will
@@BluezCinema yeah it seems very thin
It won’t
Personally I think the result looks rather great! Especially for the price and effort. I’m usually sensitive to messiness but I don’t view the different patterns as messy, they replicate stone to my mind and feel more natural than a perfectly uniform colour would
I think that this is a SCAM.
Like other have said those swirl patterns is where cracks will happen.
@@dennisschickling2249 it is i fell for it they said i needed to pay shipping to receive my prize and its not the original posters channel always check the channel
Its not flat its bumpy and uneven and cracked in 1-2 weeks (if not days). Thats the most wrong way to do self leveling concrete ) just because its says "Self leveling" in fact its not ) you did many mistakes:
1) no damping tape at perimeter - floor will crack
2) no spiked roller - there will be bubbles in it and will make it less durable and less waterproof
3) you didn't use smoother - floor surface will be uneven
4) you didn't use leveling pins to make it ideally flat, leveled and even
5) in order to do 2-3 steps you needed nail shoes )))
6) its better to use small portions at the time instead of 25 gal at once, since its dries very fast and you wont have time to complete all steps correctly, its better do by zones partially, especially if you are new to this
You dont have to be pro constructor to accomplish it, just do it right as manufacturers suggest
This works great as a floor underlayment, but it is going to crack. Cementitious products will lose moisture over the next few weeks and continue to harden and shrink and creep. It's just the properties of products themselves. This is why sidewalks have joints in them and why slab on grades have saw cuts typically 20-25 feet on center to allow cracks to form along that joint.
Over the next few weeks you'll likely see spider cracking. It doesn't mean that it is falling apart, Mike may make it a feature. Hopefully it doesn't delaminate and start popping off, but the bonding agent that Mike laid down should help with that. Like I said, it's primary application is an underlayment for floor so you don't care if it cracks because a wood floor or tile is the main surface. I'd love to see a 1 year follow up on this floor and especially the countertops since I have less faith in those holding up over time.
I can consider myself an expert with knowing concrete, I am a structural engineer so I know a whole lot about concrete. I also sometimes get asked questions about cementitious products like this to help architects spec floor underlayments that will work with their finishes.
If/when it does crack to make it a feature what would you suggest to have like a darker color settle into the cracks ( like grout) and then put Epoxy overlay?
@@Angibbabee I'm not sure, Mike is very creative so I'm sure he will think of something. He did a thing previously where he put gold flakes in the concrete cracks so I'm excited to see what he would do when some cracks form. Also, I wouldn't expect the cracks to be very large, probably just some consistent small spider cracking where you can see it but it doesn't quite open up
This is a self leveling compound, which is significantly different to a self leveling concrete screed.
If it is cementitious in nature it would have plenty of admixtures to prevent the cracking
it is levelling compound which is designed to be self levelling. It's over 40mpa, so it won't crack as long as there wasn't too much water or too thick.
I didn't want to get too technical in my comment where it becomes too long and boring. Concrete and grout are similar being cementitious materials. They both use cement as the "glue" for sand and/or stone. There may be other admixtures used to help prevent cracking but they only go so far, they help reduce the concern if cracking but it does not eliminate it entirely. Concrete and grout will crack eventually, it is just part of the material properties, unless it is under constant compression and does not see bending or significant shear. Spider cracks are going to fork eventually, but I would also say the same thing if he poured a fresh concrete slab here too. The best thing you can do is to mitigate it.
The main concern I would have with using this material as a floor finish is the same concern I have with the "concrete” countertops that he previously made. A thin skim coat just will not last as the finish. Inevitably you're going to drop something on the floor or counter and it will chip off. It's just going to happen when such a thin layer is put down and used as the finished surface, and is irrelevant of the material strength properties.
For concrete alone, the minimum thickness I would specify for a pour is 2" for a topping slab, and even then I would probably want a 3/8" stone and fibermesh used to mitigate cracking due to drying/curling, and shrinkage over time.
I have never seen an architect call for a skim coat like this to be used as a finished floor, and a contractor would also want to stay away from this too because they would probably not warranty the work. Like I said, this would be great as a floor underlayment, but I have big concerns about durability as a finished floor over time.
No offense and hope this is more like constructive criticism but your projects lately are becoming more and more like 5 Minute Crafts or DIWhy type of results. I know it's subjective to the viewer but the look of that in my opinion looks messy and tacky.
Constructive Part: I like the videos that had simple minimal looks that used tried and tested construction methods that made a clean polished look rather than whatever you've been releasing lately with weird experimental construction methods that seem to not be done for longevity. But it's your channel so you do what you wish to do.
Really? I thought it looked nice and the concrete distribution device was pretty cool. I think a better color like black and gray would've been better
When you preface a comment with no offense that means you know what your going to say is offensive and probably nothing more than your opinion.
Ehh I disagree. He did every step that was required, and made a decent jig that worked well out of cheap materials. I’d say it was a success. Plus for ≈$1 a sqft I would be very satisfied with the results.
@@SAMB0307
It lacks this step (Could be found in the Installation Guide link from HD product page down belowwww):
Movement Joint Placement
Movement joints are required for perimeters and other changes of plane in all installations. See TCNA Detail EJ171 for recommendations.
I would have to say I think all his projects are like that. I don’t think he intends for them to be any different
Can you do an update on the floor condition?
It's actually quicker to just pour it directly on the floor 🤣
I love building "contraptions" woot! Awesome
We in the UK use a large spiked roller like a paint roller but with spikes, it gets the floor level and breaks any lumps up.
Funny video good job
No matter how low I put my volume on, you still talk too loud.
wtf. This is why we need the dislike button back
Wish I saw this a few years ago before doing our condo.
How this dude has a channel called modern builds when he uses a basic product so improperly is beyond me.
Totally waste of money and time.
Where is the cost of the trash can , plywood,PVC pipe & valve and wheels, screws ...This would bring that 1 buck square foot up a bit. No?
I feel like you’ve been making these vids for too long to have your audio sound like that in the shots where you talk in frame.
This is interesting but what is the plan when someone drops something heavy on it and cracks it in a spot? Chip up a square of it and re-pour? Just use filler in the chip/crack?
likely it will damage easily. this is designed to be used under an actual interior flooring like carpet, tile, LVP, wood. we used this in our basement remodel after framing to level the floors. i wouldnt personally use this as a top coat.
Exactly, it should be used underneath a more durable floor material. Using this as the finished floor itself will not hold up over time for several reasons. The thin layer will start popping off over time, and it'll likely chip off when something is dropped on it
Kinda like tile😮
@@mram7715 Except tile can be singularly replaced. That’s my point…each tile is separate, this is one smooth, continuous pour - if it cracks, you either have to scratch up and re-pour the entire floor, or replace one little area and now have a finish that isn’t smooth, which is the entire allure of this in the first place.
Sliding in socks on floors is my #1 hobby!
Love ur vids
I just called the company that makes this stuff & they said it is only to be used as an underlayment & not for an exposed concrete floor. They said because of pressure points it will crack. I also called a concrete specialist about doing this & he said you need at least 3" of concrete to get to the necessary PSI. 1/4" or co will crack & possibly shatter like glass. I'll be curious to see how yours holds up over time.
Yep... I have used this stuff and it will crack where there is a thin layer (near the edges) when you walk on it, and after cracking, some thin layers may come loose.
There's a special product for doing this kind of floor called Microcrete. This self levelling is only supposed to be used as a base for other flooring.
I love ❤the look of the floor so much!!
@@Lee-xs4dj other flooring, like wood laminate?
Many companies sell product that can be used very well for other things. However if they market it for something and it's not approved by governing bodies they can get sued. For example r13 pink fiberglass insulation is great for stopping smoke coming from a fire place but it's not rated for that use.
Could you get the same results by just pouring the buckets on the floor without building the trash can pourer?
its much slower.. and the mixes sit for a while if they're not immediately on-hand
Yes, He added an extra step just to make a trending youtube video.
Looks great
LOL self cracking floors for the distressed look. Great idea!
Your first mistake was stopping to talk during the pour, lol. No time but to work with self leveler.
This is excellent. I've donethis to a floor with 5 gallon buckets and it was extremely tedious. This set-up is fantastic. I made the mistake of letting part of it dry too much before the next pour, like he did. Really imperative to have the next batch ready to go. Definitely best to have someone mixing while you pour.
Wow!
Now install your lvp.
Before it cracks out and you have to do it again
Update on what these floors look like now?!?
this looks like it worked a lot better than I would have thought. Use a spike roller next time, it would have made a huge difference
His actual project cost of the level quik rs is $1440 from home depot at $36 per bag. The extra bucket and mixing tools add more to the total.
He could have bought regular thinset for $12 dollars a bag and spent the remainder on italian carrera marble tile if he knew what he was doing.
lol, you are so right. The video looked more like a gay weekend for the boys anyways.
Elaborate please.
No
@@donkzilla2293 Concrete is pretty good at leveling itself but even the best pours can have low lying areas, for those minor imperfections in your floor, using thinset to fill them in will get you level but also save you a lot of money. Then you install your choice of flooring on top, a few bags could easily stretch to fill in the low lying areas of a floor this size - you'd need a 8-ft carpenter's level to ensure you can spot those imperfections over a wide area by placing the level on different areas of the floor, and seeing if it lays flat in all spots. Mark the spots it doesn't and thin set those. I'm doing this currently in my basement.
@@wipwhopdipdhop3673 appreciate it mate! About to get all the supplies and get to work 👍
Back in 2000 I did a 23,000 Sq ft floor with ardex K-15 and really could have used this. Two guys on mixers, two on squeegees and one using a floor dolly. It was a very long Sunday, 17 hours! But it was double time at $26/hr!
For anyone looking to do this, the manufacturer's instructions say "Do not use as a permanent wear surface". Despite the arguments for or against in the comments, the manufacture says don't do this. I'd follow their guidance before random comments.
those brute garbage cans have wheels available as an easy twist on thing.
LOVE the enthusiasm, HATE the install. The supplier is laughing all the way to the bank. Material is not a wear layer and slippery sealed surface is just asking for accidents.
Just patch and level the rough areas and drop LVP on the old surface. Floors are consumable/wear surfaces. Flatten and put a nice, comfortable, replaceable, wearing surface. Replace in 20 years with LED lit, heated, vinyl tile floors
Good try but you have no real skill in doing this type of work .. lots of things where done wrong .. without the proper knowledge I can't blame you.. everytime I see someone on RUclips with Ryobi tools I know it's going to be all BAD!!!!
genuine question - how come you didn't use a spiked roller?
Doing it just for the views? Pretty ridiculously bad solution. Unsubscribed 👋
The trash can dolly platform you constructed at the beginning can be purchased off the shelf for $20-$30.
ok not tryn to be a debbie downer and for and for any nay-sayers im a 3rd generation mason with 20 years+ under my belt at the age of 40 so i am going to be the voice of reason here, first off....thats not concrete, its not even meant to be an actual exposed surface, second its gonna crack and make a god awful mess, and third you realize there are people that are gonna try this and spend alot of money on it from what i can see 1200$+ and possibly do damage to theyre homes or god forbid theyre rental homes, you really need to label your vids better and use proper tools and at least proper prepping, cuz in my opinion this was so cringe i had to stop the vid, laying down some durock concrete board and 12 inch tiles is cheaper easier and brings up the value of your home , but thats just my professional opinion.
This is the most useless contraption known to man. I do this for a living. Mix 2 bags at a time and dump it on the floor as quickly as possible so you have an even poor. You want everything drying about the same time. It’s self leveling so it’s not necessary to wheel a contraption around to get an even coating. Waste of time.
Dump it, rake it, and have someone else getting the next mix going in the meantime.
If you want your floor to look museum like, do not leave it like that. Now that the floor is leveled, go ahead and microcement the floor. You'll thank me later
Probably would have been better off grinding and sealing that slab. This is going to crack.
💯
Yup.
Would you suggest doing this in a house that is out of level? I house that I just bought is structurally sound. However, foundation level it's not within "tolerance". I'm thinking about using this cement to level the flooring.
Have fun changing out base cabinets
It's not hate. I get Mike is a lovable guy and people give him props for trying. But lets be fair. A successful diy content creator has a moral responsibility to his following to not post wrong methods or wasteful inventions that create problems, just for the sake of posting content? Where is the respect for those loyal followers? And why are you loyal followers, mad at pro tradesman here, commenting and pointing out the problems you will face doing this. This floor is going to need to be repaired into the future. It's just obvious to a lot of people including the guy making this video, he's not doing this right. Making an uneven dry\wet crevice \ ridge in the middle of the floor is not a good thing. That pouring device is creating a LOT of problems! He's going to have cement drying on that bottom one inch of the pail and mixing those lumps into the new added cement he is pouring in. We actually see this unnecessary pail invention, slowing down the process of the job and causing the delay that made that wet to dry ridge. He's also cementing in his floor cabinets. I and others are not hating him as much as we are trying to save you. Check out doing this with shoe cleats and a squeegee. One or two guy mix. The other guy just levels it out with the squeegee. The primer was done correctly. Lots of luck to you all.
What's with the double triple six hand sign ?
Watching you with that contraption gave me a good laugh. Why not use a squeegee or something to distribute the self leveler?
It's better to make a piece of crap so idiots follow this procedure and mess up their or someone else's home
YES. It's called a Gauge Rake. Marshalltown makes a great one.
Biggest problem you made, is that the leveler you used isn’t rated as a wear surface. You need to use something like Mapei M20 plus or their Ultratop
does this even matter if its just for foot traffic and is sealed?
@@Gulag_bog 4 people sitting on a couch is like 1000 lbs, I doubt this will sustain the point loads and will likely crack and pieces will pop off in certain locations overtime due to the thickness
Make sure you put locking wheels but Then never use them………makes sense
This is not concrete. Concrete is a mix of cement, sand (fine aggregate) and stone (rough aggregate). This is basically a cement floor.
Honestly. I don't blame the upsell. If some RUclips kids asked me I would do th same
Interesting. I’ve never seen an overlay product last very long without heavy prep done prior to installation. Im sure with the minimal foot traffic you can get decent life out of this though. Im interested in seeing a follow up video. Also, look at penetrating sealers if you are looking for something that isn’t slippery. My floor is polished up to an 85 DOI and I can’t slide on it.
Self leveling compound is an underlayment and you must install some type of flooring over it, otherwise it not only will crack, some thinner sections will become loose.
@@GaryMarkowski it depends on the self leveler. Some are polishable and meant to be the finish surface.
You sure this isn't going to crack immediately?
A third person utilizing a guage rack would have helped a lot.
How long after completing the project did you apply the sealer?
Hey just a thought. What do you think about adding a slanted platform at the bottom of the trash can so that it funnels into the pipe eliminating the waste at the bottle 👍🏾 great build tho looks like it made the process a lot easier great job looks fun too -bwash
He should cover it with a poxy and go with a different wild color now
Did we leave the shelves in place and pour around them…?
This is so much work that unless you do this daily is pointless
I like it, came out nice.
Woww😍 I'll make for sure som concrete projects on my channel in future🤩
Hey do you have an update on how this held up over the years?
Instead of batch refill have your friend bring them to you when he’s done.. a little single bucket flow 😂
What would you suggest doing to make them less slippery?
All ryobi tools……that’s all I need to know 😂😂
Disclaimer : don't try this at home. Especially not if you're thinking of putting down glue down vinyl. You will have so much extra prep work flattening out all those nice twirls he made _ and sorely regret each little lump you didn't fix or missed after a few months.
I've installed many glue down and adhesive backed vinyl floors. Using self leveling thinset is a must for a smooth, flat end product. But, it needs to be mixed properly. For example, most people dont realize you want to add a latex additive to the mix so it doesnt dry into a powdery mess.
Hey Mike. It's been almost a year. Any issues with cracking?
This floor will crack in a month.
This cement will chip off within 2 years
There’s actually tools that can help u blend and spread concrete smoothly and evenly
He said he only made one mistake 😂
Holy moly, this is a perfect video of exactly what not to do!! The seams, the using the wrong material that will end up cracking very soon! this floor will have to be completely redone in just a few years. If you take anything from this video its not to copy him at all.
with no control joints, expect cracks soon 🙁
Should have added a colour pigment to cement would have looked better.
In canada this thing gonna crack at -30 in winter
spikey roller will get it flat
Honestly you could just ad it to the floor by buckets
self leveller is not meant to be a surface product. youre going to have scratches and gouges. looks cool though
Not bad but you really should have gotten yourself a spiked roller, they are CHEAP and make helping the mixture level and BLEND the pours much easier. You could have made some nail soles for your shoes to walk over it as well for almost nothing - nails, wood, bit of rope to tie to your shoes.
Damn, and I was about to pay somebody 8k to do the same sq footage for me. Thanks a bunch!
I have been wanting to repave my recording studio and I might actually attempt this
Wouldn't direct contact with porous material(wood shelves, wood kitchen cabinets, and drywall) cause moisture to be pulled out of the concrete? Or, future wicking of moisture between the two surfaces?
Looks great once its done. In less than a year it will be cracked, broken, deformed and lots of other adjectives. When will people learn that there are no shortcuts. Doing it properly the first time is the cheapest option. And if concrete is too expesive/difficult, use large tiles. Either way is better than the bodge job in this video.
noticed that you didn't put a straight edge to demonstrate the flatness... how did you gauge that you hit your desired depth?
Self leveling requires all the concrete to be poured at once and still in liquid form, doesn't it?
I love the idea of this, but I have my doubts about longevity, quite happy to be proved wrong if Mike does a follow up at the 1 year and 5 year marks...
I think that this is a SCAM.
I love the video. But can you say how much water you added to the concrete to get that consistency?
This looks so bad, lol😅🤣. This product is not meant to be a flooring. It's made to be a flooring underlayment. I wouldn't be surprised if it started cracking and chipping within a few years.
Hey anybody that can level their floor while their shoes are still in the closet! Let’s give a shout out for doing a great job! ❤😂
Can i Just say something and I hope I don't offend anyone, why the need of the trashcan to pour the cement when you could just pour it from the pail and not do what looked To be very uncomfortable using your invention?