I did exactly that (with the painter's tape and brush) to creat a small ramp between my walkway and driveway. The height difference was about 3\4". It has gone through 3 Canadians winters now. The feathered edge (and the rest of the ramp) still look like the day I finished it. I LOVE this stuff! I just wish there was asphalt repair that would hold as well as this one.
@@SakreteOfficial Naaa, even less complicated. I can't seem to find a crack filler that last more than 1 winter here in Canada. I prep like crazy, and follow the directions to a T (I do it when there's no rain in the forecast for 3 days, and apply it in the very early morning when it's about 65⁰f).
Tough conditions up there for sure. Maybe groove the joint out a little wider and try a cementitious fix? Our friends over at RapidSet introduced an Asphalt Repair Mix somewhat recently - basically a tinted, polymer-modified concrete mix - that might be worth a try.
Asphalt patch is easy pending using map gas torch level heat to prep the area. Once patched with cold patch asphalt granular goop, tamp in place and again apply heat until it’s smoking and tamp some more. It’ll hold in place easier and longer
Should you allow some time for the filled-in crack to harden and dry before putting on the top coat? Also according to the Top'n Bond instructions, it's not supposed to be more than 1/2" in thickness on each application, and it seems it is more like 1" thick at the high end in your demo. In that case, should there be 2 separate applications?
Give that first layer a couple of minutes to reach an initial set, but you don't need to wait for long. The application depth is probably a LITTLE high in this example, but Top 'N Bond still did a nice job. By the book, it would probably be best to do this pour in two lifts.
Top 'N Bond is a pretty natural concrete gray. Probably a touch darker than the concrete you're repairing, but not glaringly obvious like some other repair materials. Good note though - we'll look into updating this project guide!
I followed you here (thanks!) and this is what I've been looking for since March '23. Sidewalk isn't cracked, a root pushes the slap from about 2" high down to an even point. I'll use Top N Bond but I'm confused about the "SSD". Painters' tape is pretty common to see around here, so I'm convinced it'll work. But then do I need to use another product? I get that the cement needs to adhere to the sidewalk. I can handle hydraulic cement but this is new for me.
Right on! This should work perfectly for you. "SSD" is simple - just getting the surface wet before you apply the patch. The simplest form of surface conditioning, as opposed to using a primer. The acronym is "saturated surface dry" and basically means that the concrete is at a neutral moisture content that neither adds moisture to the mix nor pulls moisture out of the mix. You know you're at SSD when the concrete LOOKS wet, but is dry to the touch.
Used Quikrete?? Well, there's your problem! In all seriousness, it's tough for a thin patch to maintain bond under aggressive cleaning like that - not much for the material to bond to. The best advice for minimizing chipping would be roughening up the surface to be repaired and using a bonding agent. That said, even better would be to do a bit of light demolition work so you're laying down a minimum of ~1/8" of material rather than going all the way down to feather edge. No foolproof solution other than re-pouring, but those ideas will give you a fighting chance.
While the TECHNIQUE would work, we wouldn't recommend trying to correct a level change at the expansion joint - you're almost certainly in for more movement which would effectively ruin the repair.
Long story short, Pro-Mix is Sakrete on steroids. Whereas Top 'N Bond is ready for foot traffic in 24 hours, Pro-Mix reaches structural strength (meaning you can drive on it!) in just one hour. The "upgrade" to Top 'N Bond would actually be Pro-Mix All Purpose Cement Mix (aka "red stripe") - that'll take you from 0" to 4" in one mix!
I'm missing something. If the painter's tape remains until the cement cures, then the tape cannot be removed without breaking the cement slope. And you cannot leave the tape in place because it prevents bonding of the new slope to the old floor.
Good clarification here! The intent is that by the time you hit the tape mark, you've already reached a feather edge finish, meaning that the tape shouldn't interfere with the bond. The small amount of material you'll be pulling up with the tape is superficial. That said, removing the tape immediately is also completely viable, as is not using the tape in the first place - just a nice aesthetic element.
A form is essentially a frame or "mold" that you would build around the repair area to hold material in place. Dirk is demonstrating how to "freehand" this repair, which is pretty advanced stuff - using a form would make it a heck of a lot simpler for non-experts.
I just bought some Top N Bond to use to skim coat my basement walls to fill surface imperfections left by an incompetent contractor. There are two things that the bag of Top N Bond instructs me to do but I don't see on this video: 1.) priming the surface with a slurry of Top N Bond. 2.) keeping the surface moist while it cures for 24 hours. I would prefer to not have to include these steps. Are they necessary?
Let's break it down: 1. The priming is helpful for increasing bond strength. New concrete doesn't like to bond to old concrete, believe it or not...so by giving the new skim coat some "fresh" concrete to grab on to, you're going to guarantee that it locks in place. 2. Curing is the most critical piece of any concrete job - lose moisture too fast and you can see shrinkage cracks. Wet curing is the easiest way to ensure the cement has all of the water it needs to complete its chemical reaction at the right speed, so you get a picture-perfect finish. To be fair, not MANDATORY, but definitely highly recommended!
Meaning the height difference is 1.5" from the low end to the high end? Suppose so...but that's going to be a LOT of grinding, and potentially leave you with some really thin areas. Probably better to patch / overlay. You might have a heaving situation down there!
@@golfshoe9321 Bingo - that's the exact process! You could also look at using a mix like Pro-Mix All-Purpose Cement that would allow you to do that entire pour in a single lift. If your local Lowe's carries Sakrete, they'll have it!
@@golfshoe9321I'm curious if you did it? And how it turned out? I have a 2inch drop and my slabs are about 10ft long. Concrete leveling companies want 5,000$ to lift it. I might try this
Good question! We're just referring to using a separate liquid bonding agent (or primer) to ensure bond strength. Because Top 'N Bond is a polymerized mix, you actually will ONLY want to prime using water to bring the slab to SSD. Other mixes (like Fast Setting Cement Patcher) would benefit from using a liquid primer like Bonder & Fortifier.
If our 1978 concrete patio has cracks and random (up to 2” wide / 1/2” deep) rough chipped divets, would you recommend having the patio sand-blasted or commercial rotary sander to remove 12 years of heavily weathered (Seattle rain) concrete paint, then repair surface chips and cracks with this Sakrete primer? Once surface is repaired what decorative restorative treatment would you recommend in our moist Pacific NW climate? Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! Can I drill this after it sets up? I have to fix some spots on the edge of my barn slab that will be just like you did here but I have to put anchors through it to hold down the wall that will sit on top of it.
That's the issue - almost impossible to say in advance! It all has to do with how "active" the movement is. Like Dirk said in the video, this patch might last years (if there's not much movement) or just a few months (if it's still very active). The only guarantee for longevity is tearing it up and re-pouring...but a good repair is definitely the place to start!
Nice demo but why didn't you come back after the 24 hours you stated to "leave it alone and then remove the painter's tape" and show us the tape coming off, and the nice (hardened) result? I feel like the video was unfinished.
Looks like concrete, baby! Seriously though, patches are generally slightly darker than existing concrete, but will lighten as they age. Also a good point - we'll make a note to show the final cured product in the future!
I did exactly that (with the painter's tape and brush) to creat a small ramp between my walkway and driveway. The height difference was about 3\4". It has gone through 3 Canadians winters now. The feathered edge (and the rest of the ramp) still look like the day I finished it. I LOVE this stuff! I just wish there was asphalt repair that would hold as well as this one.
Gotta love a good success story!
Asphalt is a tricky one, that's for sure. You looking at a pothole or something more complicated?
@@SakreteOfficial
Naaa, even less complicated. I can't seem to find a crack filler that last more than 1 winter here in Canada. I prep like crazy, and follow the directions to a T (I do it when there's no rain in the forecast for 3 days, and apply it in the very early morning when it's about 65⁰f).
Tough conditions up there for sure. Maybe groove the joint out a little wider and try a cementitious fix?
Our friends over at RapidSet introduced an Asphalt Repair Mix somewhat recently - basically a tinted, polymer-modified concrete mix - that might be worth a try.
Asphalt patch is easy pending using map gas torch level heat to prep the area. Once patched with cold patch asphalt granular goop, tamp in place and again apply heat until it’s smoking and tamp some more. It’ll hold in place easier and longer
Should you allow some time for the filled-in crack to harden and dry before putting on the top coat?
Also according to the Top'n Bond instructions, it's not supposed to be more than 1/2" in thickness on each application, and it seems it is more like 1" thick at the high end in your demo. In that case, should there be 2 separate applications?
Give that first layer a couple of minutes to reach an initial set, but you don't need to wait for long.
The application depth is probably a LITTLE high in this example, but Top 'N Bond still did a nice job. By the book, it would probably be best to do this pour in two lifts.
I can't find any videos that show what color this top bond dries, any followup videos on the finished product?
Top 'N Bond is a pretty natural concrete gray. Probably a touch darker than the concrete you're repairing, but not glaringly obvious like some other repair materials.
Good note though - we'll look into updating this project guide!
I followed you here (thanks!) and this is what I've been looking for since March '23. Sidewalk isn't cracked, a root pushes the slap from about 2" high down to an even point. I'll use Top N Bond but I'm confused about the "SSD". Painters' tape is pretty common to see around here, so I'm convinced it'll work. But then do I need to use another product? I get that the cement needs to adhere to the sidewalk. I can handle hydraulic cement but this is new for me.
Right on! This should work perfectly for you.
"SSD" is simple - just getting the surface wet before you apply the patch. The simplest form of surface conditioning, as opposed to using a primer.
The acronym is "saturated surface dry" and basically means that the concrete is at a neutral moisture content that neither adds moisture to the mix nor pulls moisture out of the mix.
You know you're at SSD when the concrete LOOKS wet, but is dry to the touch.
I wish the camera was positioned over the work area so we could actually see what’s being done.
Good note - we'll consider that for the next one!
It's very easy. You get the consistency then move it with your trowel to where you want it.
What's recommended for resurfacing a 13x12 patio with a bunch of cracks and pitched the wrong way.... thinking of skim coat 1-2 inches
Sounds like you're looking at a cap - we've got a video on that one!
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/uoNF0MagRsE/видео.html
I haven't used Sakrete in quite a while. Great products and a good couple of videos. I hope to see you all at World of Concrete this year.
Appreciated! Can't wait for WOC - we'll see you there!
How would a repair like this hold up against steam cleaning ? Used some quikrete and the thinner edges started to chip off
Used Quikrete?? Well, there's your problem!
In all seriousness, it's tough for a thin patch to maintain bond under aggressive cleaning like that - not much for the material to bond to. The best advice for minimizing chipping would be roughening up the surface to be repaired and using a bonding agent.
That said, even better would be to do a bit of light demolition work so you're laying down a minimum of ~1/8" of material rather than going all the way down to feather edge.
No foolproof solution other than re-pouring, but those ideas will give you a fighting chance.
Would this work if it is a concrete expansion joint? Instead of filling the joint leaving it open?
While the TECHNIQUE would work, we wouldn't recommend trying to correct a level change at the expansion joint - you're almost certainly in for more movement which would effectively ruin the repair.
I have a uneven surface and a crack would I repair the crack first and then cap the slab or what would you recommend?
If you're going to cap the slab, you can certainly take care of that crack repair at the same time!
He is using the Top N Bond Patch mix, is the Sacrete Pro Concrete Repair mix similar? If not , what is the difference?
Long story short, Pro-Mix is Sakrete on steroids. Whereas Top 'N Bond is ready for foot traffic in 24 hours, Pro-Mix reaches structural strength (meaning you can drive on it!) in just one hour.
The "upgrade" to Top 'N Bond would actually be Pro-Mix All Purpose Cement Mix (aka "red stripe") - that'll take you from 0" to 4" in one mix!
How long did you wait to brush over it?
Good question! Really just need to wait until you get an initial set - maybe 20 minutes.
Thanks!
That's what we're here for!
I'm missing something. If the painter's tape remains until the cement cures, then the tape cannot be removed without breaking the cement slope. And you cannot leave the tape in place because it prevents bonding of the new slope to the old floor.
Good clarification here! The intent is that by the time you hit the tape mark, you've already reached a feather edge finish, meaning that the tape shouldn't interfere with the bond. The small amount of material you'll be pulling up with the tape is superficial.
That said, removing the tape immediately is also completely viable, as is not using the tape in the first place - just a nice aesthetic element.
What's a form? (5:08)
A form is essentially a frame or "mold" that you would build around the repair area to hold material in place.
Dirk is demonstrating how to "freehand" this repair, which is pretty advanced stuff - using a form would make it a heck of a lot simpler for non-experts.
I just bought some Top N Bond to use to skim coat my basement walls to fill surface imperfections left by an incompetent contractor. There are two things that the bag of Top N Bond instructs me to do but I don't see on this video:
1.) priming the surface with a slurry of Top N Bond.
2.) keeping the surface moist while it cures for 24 hours.
I would prefer to not have to include these steps. Are they necessary?
Let's break it down:
1. The priming is helpful for increasing bond strength. New concrete doesn't like to bond to old concrete, believe it or not...so by giving the new skim coat some "fresh" concrete to grab on to, you're going to guarantee that it locks in place.
2. Curing is the most critical piece of any concrete job - lose moisture too fast and you can see shrinkage cracks. Wet curing is the easiest way to ensure the cement has all of the water it needs to complete its chemical reaction at the right speed, so you get a picture-perfect finish.
To be fair, not MANDATORY, but definitely highly recommended!
I wish there was a link to buy
Head on over to Sakrete.com/Where-To-Buy - as close to "click to buy" as you can get!
Can I grind down a 4'x8' section of concrete that rises to an 1.5" at its high point?
Meaning the height difference is 1.5" from the low end to the high end? Suppose so...but that's going to be a LOT of grinding, and potentially leave you with some really thin areas. Probably better to patch / overlay. You might have a heaving situation down there!
@@SakreteOfficial My drop is about 2", should I put down one layer, dry, and then apply another layer the next day?
@@golfshoe9321 Bingo - that's the exact process!
You could also look at using a mix like Pro-Mix All-Purpose Cement that would allow you to do that entire pour in a single lift.
If your local Lowe's carries Sakrete, they'll have it!
@@golfshoe9321I'm curious if you did it? And how it turned out? I have a 2inch drop and my slabs are about 10ft long. Concrete leveling companies want 5,000$ to lift it. I might try this
What do you mean by prime coat?
Good question! We're just referring to using a separate liquid bonding agent (or primer) to ensure bond strength.
Because Top 'N Bond is a polymerized mix, you actually will ONLY want to prime using water to bring the slab to SSD.
Other mixes (like Fast Setting Cement Patcher) would benefit from using a liquid primer like Bonder & Fortifier.
If our 1978 concrete patio has cracks and random (up to 2” wide / 1/2” deep) rough chipped divets, would you recommend having the patio sand-blasted or commercial rotary sander to remove 12 years of heavily weathered (Seattle rain) concrete paint, then repair surface chips and cracks with this Sakrete primer? Once surface is repaired what decorative restorative treatment would you recommend in our moist Pacific NW climate?
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! Can I drill this after it sets up? I have to fix some spots on the edge of my barn slab that will be just like you did here but I have to put anchors through it to hold down the wall that will sit on top of it.
Absolutely - just give it the full 28-day cure time before you go drilling into it.
Thanks for watching!
For the cheap method, how long does it last?
That's the issue - almost impossible to say in advance! It all has to do with how "active" the movement is. Like Dirk said in the video, this patch might last years (if there's not much movement) or just a few months (if it's still very active).
The only guarantee for longevity is tearing it up and re-pouring...but a good repair is definitely the place to start!
Nice demo but why didn't you come back after the 24 hours you stated to "leave it alone and then remove the painter's tape" and show us the tape coming off, and the nice (hardened) result? I feel like the video was unfinished.
Valid critique - appreciate the feedback. We'll tack on a shot of the finished product the next time we're in the studio!
Can you use the Re-Cap over this so it blends with the rest of the area ?
You definitely can, though we'd suggest Flo-Coat...Re-Cap is made by the other guy.
Update Folks me and the Wifey have our tickets/hotel/flight. We will be seeing you there ready to glean some more information!!!!
Right on! We're right in the middle of South Hall - S10826!
when you pull the painters tape away , you will leave a huge lip.....dont use the tape!!
Not a bad piece of advice! It's a good marker to help you eyeball the finish line, but killing the tape can't hurt!
To fix the lip can you lightly sponge the lip down to feather it?
Good recommendation there.
The music! Lol ... did we invade a country or something? It's a concrete patch for God's sake.
Are we the only ones who get THIS excited about concrete? 🔥🔥🔥 🤘🤘🤘
I was thinking the same thing!
This is no laughing matter. It’s a trip hazard for gods sake!
Yeah but what's it look like when its dry? All sakrete videos never show that!
Looks like concrete, baby!
Seriously though, patches are generally slightly darker than existing concrete, but will lighten as they age. Also a good point - we'll make a note to show the final cured product in the future!
To add a scenario, if you get your foundation repaired and go to replace your flooring you pay find situations like this....
All sorts of stuff hiding underneath flooring...good to have some tools to combat those little (or big!) imperfections that always seem to pop up!
You have to raise the lower portion from underneath. Next video.
Yep, correcting the underlying issue is definitely the RIGHT way to do it, but sometimes the repair is all you've got time (or budget) for. Options!
You forgot lifting the slab. It relatively easy.
Via foam injection?
@@SakreteOfficial perhaps, or other means.
Tried the other method. Hurt our back.
crap just a way to rip the next person off any thing to make a buck