Hi Rene. Great work as usual, and thanks for sharing. You mentioned not being able to get Cura to print 2 walls for certain areas. There is a way that DJDesigns explained to me while trying to print the F-14 he designed. In Cura this can be done with the per model settings, as follows: • Import a part • Select the part, click on 'Support blocker' or press 'E' and click on the mesh. This should create a small cube • Scale the cube up and move it to cover the section of the part that requires the 2 walls, eg the top 5 mm of the part. • Select the cube and click on 'Per Model Settings' on the side bar • Select 'Modify Settings for Overlaps' and change wall line count from 0 to 1 (you may have to add the setting in "Select Settings") This should allow you to change settings within the area that the cube intersects with the part. The link to the F-14 and associated comments is here... cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/f-14-rc-aircraft-twin-50mm-fan-960mm-span Hope this is of interest.
From what I can see Cura is not optimized to enhance strenght, but to reduce weight. The inner structure of the parts are already fzilure prone so adding renforcement is a bit of lost cause. Doing planes using 3D printers requires and entirely new grade set of tools. Extensive material qualification is also required. Your video gave me an entirely new vision of the thing, many thanks.
Rene thanks for pointing me to this video - excellent information / results. Minwax Polycrylic would really be worth testing in place of the Epoxy. It is readily available, non toxic and can be used with fibreglass at least on wood. Perhaps you already looked into this option.
@@renerosentraeger fantastic... Multiple coats build a tougher finish. Irrespective of the outcome the information from the testing is just great to have.
I work on a 1.8m Viper Jet printed from LW PLA and covered in cfk and this video is very helpful, thank you! A small tip: don't use square parts for tension tests. The test articles should always have a thinner cross section in the middle. (Like an hourglass shape for example) If you use square parts you won't get accurate results because your clamping mechanism exerts a force on the part too, which weakens it.
Matte and resin are strong but heavy, messy and time consuming. Why don't you print the needed parts in nylon 6 which is strong and very light? or even carbon filled nylon if you need extra rigidity? which has a weight to strength ratio that closely matches aluminium. Then there is no need to mess with different wall thicknesses. Also impact and abrasion resistance is quite high. Just take extra precautions to keep the filament in a very low humidity container. I use a gasket box with 3D printed through plates that hold a bowden tube with a back plate and sandwich fly tying float foam as a gasket that the filament is pushed through. Also a deep v groove pulley to align the filament. Used with desiccant in the box keeps the nylon in good shape for some time.
Awesome! i've tried this on a couple of pieces but it didnt seem to work as well as yours, i dont think the resin penetrated. What type of resin do you use?
Hi Rene. Great work as usual, and thanks for sharing.
You mentioned not being able to get Cura to print 2 walls for certain areas. There is a way that DJDesigns explained to me while trying to print the F-14 he designed. In Cura this can be done with the per model settings, as follows:
• Import a part
• Select the part, click on 'Support blocker' or press 'E' and click on the mesh. This should create a small cube
• Scale the cube up and move it to cover the section of the part that requires the 2 walls, eg the top 5 mm of the part.
• Select the cube and click on 'Per Model Settings' on the side bar
• Select 'Modify Settings for Overlaps' and change wall line count from 0 to 1 (you may have to add the setting in "Select Settings")
This should allow you to change settings within the area that the cube intersects with the part.
The link to the F-14 and associated comments is here... cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/f-14-rc-aircraft-twin-50mm-fan-960mm-span
Hope this is of interest.
Sounds great mate! I'll check that soon😁👍👍
Great video Rene!!! Thanks I am still amazed how you push the lw printing part to higher level
😁🙌
Very useful and awrsome tests! Thanks to you guys!!!
Thx man 🙌
From what I can see Cura is not optimized to enhance strenght, but to reduce weight.
The inner structure of the parts are already fzilure prone so adding renforcement is a bit of lost cause.
Doing planes using 3D printers requires and entirely new grade set of tools.
Extensive material qualification is also required.
Your video gave me an entirely new vision of the thing, many thanks.
You're welcome mate 🙌
What about LWPLA + fiberglass VS Regular PLA/PETG ?..
2nd is still more heavy.
Rene thanks for pointing me to this video - excellent information / results. Minwax Polycrylic would really be worth testing in place of the Epoxy. It is readily available, non toxic and can be used with fibreglass at least on wood. Perhaps you already looked into this option.
Just ordered one Minwax 👌
@@renerosentraeger fantastic... Multiple coats build a tougher finish. Irrespective of the outcome the information from the testing is just great to have.
I work on a 1.8m Viper Jet printed from LW PLA and covered in cfk and this video is very helpful, thank you!
A small tip: don't use square parts for tension tests. The test articles should always have a thinner cross section in the middle. (Like an hourglass shape for example)
If you use square parts you won't get accurate results because your clamping mechanism exerts a force on the part too, which weakens it.
Absolutely thanks for that👍👍
Sehr interessant Rene ! Weiter so... ;)
Matte and resin are strong but heavy, messy and time consuming. Why don't you print the needed parts in nylon 6 which is strong and very light? or even carbon filled nylon if you need extra rigidity? which has a weight to strength ratio that closely matches aluminium. Then there is no need to mess with different wall thicknesses. Also impact and abrasion resistance is quite high. Just take extra precautions to keep the filament in a very low humidity container. I use a gasket box with 3D printed through plates that hold a bowden tube with a back plate and sandwich fly tying float foam as a gasket that the filament is pushed through. Also a deep v groove pulley to align the filament. Used with desiccant in the box keeps the nylon in good shape for some time.
Very interesting mate! Do you got some pics of your printed parts?
@@renerosentraeger I can send you the STL files if you like. What email should I send to?
@@dee5556 Rene.rosentraeger at gmx.de
Good video, thanks for sharing with us.
Weiterhin viel Erfolg, macht weiter so 👍
Gerne 😅👌
Perfect
excellentes informations .
Hi Rene, Does the epoxy resin make lwpla waterproof ?
Not 100%. Use paint for that case.
Awesome! i've tried this on a couple of pieces but it didnt seem to work as well as yours, i dont think the resin penetrated. What type of resin do you use?
L385 and H385 Hardener 👍
you can make the video title another way. more if you do things like this (how to make su57)
What brand of resin do you use ?
L385👍
Ok thanks, ordered the resin. What of paint brand do you use and I mentioned that you ad terpentine to the epoxy. How much do you use
Oh kacke.
Gedruckt um zerquetscht zu werden. 👍
Geplant war das nisch😅👍
@@renerosentraeger
Nicht alles, was eine gute Idee ist, ist vorher geplant.
Bei mir auch nicht. 🙂
Manche Dinge ergeben sich von Selbst.
I just discovered you on Instagram, your projects are beautiful but you don't get paid for your efforts.