Another thing to test would be prints *filled* with epoxy. Use Gyroid infill and print with 0 roof or floor layers so the infill is exposed on one surface. Gyroid infill is designed to allow free flow of filler throughout the model, since all voids in gyroid pattern connect to the voids around them.
I’m really enjoying this channel. You’re answering questions I didn’t even know I had! There are TONS of 3D printing channels out there, but very few of them do any meaningful tests or engineering the way you and CNC Kitchen do. I genuinely think you’ve got the potential to be a huge channel.
XTC 3D is just basic epoxy resin sold 3x or even 4x the usualy price only because it's written "3D" on it, don't buy it's a scam, just buy regular epoxy for much cheaper.
I like your list of claims! You try to address those claims but many paints, varnishes and similar products are available, many don’t need mixing (one part). I have a bottle of clear nail varnish for fixing up prints and waterproofing. It also helps fit parts (like a lid) that are slightly small. It dries quickly and you can apply a second coat. I’ve also used “plastidip”, a thick liquid that dries to a soft rubber, for some parts. Polyurethane varnish is very tough. PVA (white wood glue) glue works well and is very inexpensive and gets used on cutting boards so I expect a food safe version might be available. I expect nail varnish might be foodsafe seeing as it’s used on you fingers. If you only need one or 2 of the attributes, another coating may be suitable and easier to use. Also , one part coatings usually shrink as the solvent evaporates, 2 parts like epoxy don’t shrink. UV cure also doesn’t shrink. If it doesn’t shrink it will retain the shiny texture with just one coat
Using resin to create food safe surfaces is very, very sketchy thing to try to accomplish. Resins can easily de-laminate from surfaces. I would much rather try something like make mold and resin that and use something like food grade silicon or something get the actual food safe product.
Another great video. I noticed with the benchy that the epoxy seemed to have a yellowish tint where it thickened on the deck. It won't be noticeable for some colours but, for example, for white or marble it would change the colour. Of course it does not has any effect on what you were testing for.
The streght test: What if you give more layers of resin/thicker coatings For the waterproof: what about taking the container that leaks and dry it out, the coat it and check? just to make sure that the coated one doesn't leak because of resin not jus that it got better printed (probably the resin is the only difference, but to check) nice analysis
Hello, when you present the results at 6:07, I think doing the experiments on only 2 pieces is much too low be statistically relevant, I would have much preferred seeing the results with 10 expriments instead of just 2, and use the median of all the results to compare. Thanks for the video
Nice video, very clear. I think if you want to make your objects stronger you can use fiberglass mat and epoxy, I think you can buy very thin fiberglass which will help quite a lot. But it's also quite a bit more work though.
You could do a Epoxy VS SLA resin coated and cured with UV comparison, that might be interesting. mean reason for people coating PLA is to get rid of layer lines i believe and todo less sanding.
@@ParabolicLabs ...uh you might test some more before you do a lot conclusions. the layer height you're speaking of has impact on curing yes, but it only means you need more exposure time! Tried curing your parts in a curing station over a few minutes? etc. As far as the airbrushing goes, with good ventilation(i mean fans here!) airbrushing is no problem, however seeing as resin is pretty "thick", airbrushing is only useful for getting correct thickness layers on small parts.
@@ParabolicLabs I think SLA printers work by using a screen (lcd or whatever) to restrict the light! and thus not exposing the whole vat! how do you think they work?! Anyway, i do agree on the safety that you have to use with airbrushing resin. I custom paint, so i have al the equipment needed, i personally don't airbrush it, just saying it is definitely a usable option. I'll add that the resin not curing could have many factors, you might wanna try a different resin etc. but it does work! and the reason for using resin instead of epoxy would be drying times mostly, however it would be interesting to see if it gives more strength too.
@@ParabolicLabs I have seen countless videos of people coating helmets and other large 3d prints with SLA resin, they used anything from UV flashlights, to sunlight for curing. SLA will solidify even in a container shining a UV light on it. now there is a problem with some resins being inhibited of completely curing because of the surface they are placed on. you might want to try coating various surfaces with sla resin, and using a 405nm light source, and try again. I completely agree with what you said about spraying resin, very unhealthy.
Hey, first of all I would like to thank you for the good videos. I would be very interested to know if the results of these tests are the same for vapor smoothing treated objects (ABS with acetone vapor). I can well imagine that the results are even slightly better.
What about using the filament in hydroponics application? Is it food safe sense it will contact only water and there will always bacteria on hydroponic anyway?
i like how thorough you are with your tests, always. this one no exception. i AM curious however, about the epoxy... if the surface is smoothed out or retains some of those underlying printline details. i have many printed parts to smooth with sandpaper currently, and i am wondering if epoxy will be my salvation.
seeing the impressive results with salt annealing i was thinking that the surface of those prints have an ideal surface to test epoxy coating improvment. dont think anyone has tried combining these two. also saw a video where u can improve printed nylon's water absorption problem by soaking the parts in an oil, so was wondering if you soaked the item in the epoxy resin without the hardener for a few hours before patting dry and then applying epoxy + hardener it would become like impregnated with epoxy.... wonder if this would be strong enough to use for fire- arm mfg? good video, thanks for uploading
Great video as always, Something I wanted to know is "how different it feels" so for prints that we grip (like computer mouse etc) How does it effect grip/feel.
I would love to make large automotive parts out of PLA as it's cheap and prints incredibly fast and then epoxy coat them so their heat proof and stuper strong. Also, the epoxy resin matters I think. Stranger epoxy and thicker. This epoxy seems to be for toys.
@@Andreas-gh6is There are liquid based solutions. search RUclips for pla metal electroplating or something...i remember a mandalorian helmet being done which is a nice video.
@@NathanCroucher That will make no difference in strength or surface smoothness! and as far as conductivity goes it's particles isolated by the substance so won't get any/much current through...
Hi Igor! I purchased some 3D printed watercolor paint mixing trays, but the paint gets stuck in the grooves. I have looked online, but it seems you have to buy a lot more of the liquid than I need, and it's a fairly complicated process. Do you have any suggestions for an epoxy spray to coat these trays? All I need is that it dries smooth and waterproof. Maybe this is not a question for you. I have considered using clear fingernail polish. 😊 Thanks for your time!
One thing I would like to know is if it actually is safe to put the prints in the oven you cook with. I would guess as long as it doesn't get too hot and properly melt or vaporize it would be ok. But I still would not do it. My tin foil hat is too tight for that.
Not really, same problem with bacterial colonies we have with PETG and PLA. PLA is stronger, but only on room temperature (except it is brittle). Shiny? Waterproof? Same as PLA. Thermal resistance is bigger (approx 75 vs 55°C)
The next test: how angry does your wife get when you put pla in the oven compared to pla in the toaster? The results can be expressed in the number of nights you have to sleep on the couch. I'm just kidding of course, I enjoyed watching your tests 😄
As an industrial designer and model-maker, I never use a 3D printed object as a final part where durability, strength or sanitation is important. I'd printed parts are great for prototyping or creating masters from which other parts can be molded, although, their stepped surface still requires clean-up and prep. The filament I tend to use is the standard PLA which is a bioplastic derived from renewable sources and is degradable via various mechanisms. Essentially it's a fairly low-impact plastic. Adding toxic epoxies, paints or other resins significantly raises the carbon footprint for the process.
I'd rather not do it. Either print in resin which I don't prefer for the same reason, or print FDM in higher resolution, or a stronger filament, or more infill and accept the results. My health is more important than the look of a silly knick knack I am printing.
@@MyTechFun Yes. However, the production, packaging, transport, and use of epoxy and other similar resins is toxic and produces a significant amount of waste and unwanted chemical byproducts at both ends of it's lifespan.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Another thing to test would be prints *filled* with epoxy. Use Gyroid infill and print with 0 roof or floor layers so the infill is exposed on one surface. Gyroid infill is designed to allow free flow of filler throughout the model, since all voids in gyroid pattern connect to the voids around them.
Did that actually. It’s working pretty well Especially when printing models in vase mode
I’m really enjoying this channel. You’re answering questions I didn’t even know I had! There are TONS of 3D printing channels out there, but very few of them do any meaningful tests or engineering the way you and CNC Kitchen do. I genuinely think you’ve got the potential to be a huge channel.
XTC 3D is just basic epoxy resin sold 3x or even 4x the usualy price only because it's written "3D" on it, don't buy it's a scam, just buy regular epoxy for much cheaper.
my bottles were open and spilled in the box when I got it too, scam company
Does refular epoxy resin work for smoothing PLA 3d prints?
If you really want to make the part stronger with epoxy, use a 0.6% mix of Graphene powder. You'll see about 500% increase relative to normal epoxy.
How does this work?
I like your list of claims! You try to address those claims but many paints, varnishes and similar products are available, many don’t need mixing (one part). I have a bottle of clear nail varnish for fixing up prints and waterproofing. It also helps fit parts (like a lid) that are slightly small. It dries quickly and you can apply a second coat. I’ve also used “plastidip”, a thick liquid that dries to a soft rubber, for some parts. Polyurethane varnish is very tough. PVA (white wood glue) glue works well and is very inexpensive and gets used on cutting boards so I expect a food safe version might be available. I expect nail varnish might be foodsafe seeing as it’s used on you fingers. If you only need one or 2 of the attributes, another coating may be suitable and easier to use.
Also , one part coatings usually shrink as the solvent evaporates, 2 parts like epoxy don’t shrink. UV cure also doesn’t shrink. If it doesn’t shrink it will retain the shiny texture with just one coat
Using resin to create food safe surfaces is very, very sketchy thing to try to accomplish. Resins can easily de-laminate from surfaces. I would much rather try something like make mold and resin that and use something like food grade silicon or something get the actual food safe product.
Another great video. I noticed with the benchy that the epoxy seemed to have a yellowish tint where it thickened on the deck. It won't be noticeable for some colours but, for example, for white or marble it would change the colour. Of course it does not has any effect on what you were testing for.
The streght test: What if you give more layers of resin/thicker coatings
For the waterproof: what about taking the container that leaks and dry it out, the coat it and check? just to make sure that the coated one doesn't leak because of resin not jus that it got better printed (probably the resin is the only difference, but to check)
nice analysis
Hello, when you present the results at 6:07, I think doing the experiments on only 2 pieces is much too low be statistically relevant, I would have much preferred seeing the results with 10 expriments instead of just 2, and use the median of all the results to compare. Thanks for the video
Nice video, very clear.
I think if you want to make your objects stronger you can use fiberglass mat and epoxy, I think you can buy very thin fiberglass which will help quite a lot. But it's also quite a bit more work though.
11:17 "Just in case some of you skipped the whole video..." I got busted, sorry!!
Fine experiences. I learned a litle more about using coated with epoxy resin. I didn't realise that.
Great Job! Tank you for sharing that.
The epoxy is interesting for preserving prints. Would pla hold its form better over time if coated?
Looks like no (PLA creeps on above 40-45°C)
You could do a Epoxy VS SLA resin coated and cured with UV comparison, that might be interesting. mean reason for people coating PLA is to get rid of layer lines i believe and todo less sanding.
@@ParabolicLabs ...uh you might test some more before you do a lot conclusions. the layer height you're speaking of has impact on curing yes, but it only means you need more exposure time! Tried curing your parts in a curing station over a few minutes? etc. As far as the airbrushing goes, with good ventilation(i mean fans here!) airbrushing is no problem, however seeing as resin is pretty "thick", airbrushing is only useful for getting correct thickness layers on small parts.
@@ParabolicLabs I think SLA printers work by using a screen (lcd or whatever) to restrict the light! and thus not exposing the whole vat! how do you think they work?! Anyway, i do agree on the safety that you have to use with airbrushing resin. I custom paint, so i have al the equipment needed, i personally don't airbrush it, just saying it is definitely a usable option. I'll add that the resin not curing could have many factors, you might wanna try a different resin etc. but it does work! and the reason for using resin instead of epoxy would be drying times mostly, however it would be interesting to see if it gives more strength too.
@@ParabolicLabs I have seen countless videos of people coating helmets and other large 3d prints with SLA resin, they used anything from UV flashlights, to sunlight for curing. SLA will solidify even in a container shining a UV light on it.
now there is a problem with some resins being inhibited of completely curing because of the surface they are placed on. you might want to try coating various surfaces with sla resin, and using a 405nm light source, and try again.
I completely agree with what you said about spraying resin, very unhealthy.
Hey, first of all I would like to thank you for the good videos. I would be very interested to know if the results of these tests are the same for vapor smoothing treated objects (ABS with acetone vapor). I can well imagine that the results are even slightly better.
Great video. I laughed when you said you had to get the thermal test done quickly before your wife got home and found you using her oven. :)
Thanks for the great video
Perfect!
Solved lots of doubts I’ve had
Thanks!
I'd be curious to see the waterproofing test with an object that was *not* printed in vase mode
thanks once again for all your hard work!
Great video, you answered all my wonderings!
What about using the filament in hydroponics application? Is it food safe sense it will contact only water and there will always bacteria on hydroponic anyway?
i like how thorough you are with your tests, always. this one no exception. i AM curious however, about the epoxy... if the surface is smoothed out or retains some of those underlying printline details. i have many printed parts to smooth with sandpaper currently, and i am wondering if epoxy will be my salvation.
seeing the impressive results with salt annealing i was thinking that the surface of those prints have an ideal surface to test epoxy coating improvment. dont think anyone has tried combining these two.
also saw a video where u can improve printed nylon's water absorption problem by soaking the parts in an oil, so was wondering if you soaked the item in the epoxy resin without the hardener for a few hours before patting dry and then applying epoxy + hardener it would become like impregnated with epoxy....
wonder if this would be strong enough to use for fire- arm mfg?
good video, thanks for uploading
Great video as always, Something I wanted to know is "how different it feels" so for prints that we grip (like computer mouse etc) How does it effect grip/feel.
Feels like smooth injection molded object.
thank you. absolutely perfect video. explicit and straightforward.
I used epoxy to coat parts with sand as aquarium decorations.
I really like your video! Thank you for making these. Peace
Thank you for this video! 👍!
I have been wondering 😊
Aren't there premixed spray cans to do it with?
I would love to make large automotive parts out of PLA as it's cheap and prints incredibly fast and then epoxy coat them so their heat proof and stuper strong. Also, the epoxy resin matters I think. Stranger epoxy and thicker. This epoxy seems to be for toys.
Szuper menő lett! Hallom a hangodon hogy magyar vagy, le a kalappal! Hasznosak ezek a videók, most még nekem is új az az egész. Igy tovább!
Köszönöm!
Great video, thank you.
Great stuff epoxy, looks like not so much for this purpose though. What about Electroplating parts?
Good idea! with different metal surfaces.
thermoplastics are usually not conductive
@@Andreas-gh6is There are liquid based solutions. search RUclips for pla metal electroplating or something...i remember a mandalorian helmet being done which is a nice video.
@@peterdocter4659 graphite powder into a paint seems to be the cheapest option i can find.
@@NathanCroucher That will make no difference in strength or surface smoothness! and as far as conductivity goes it's particles isolated by the substance so won't get any/much current through...
Good video and tests
Id like to ask if the shiny means smooth?
Meaning the surface is like polished?
Yes, smooth and shiny surface
I also have to put my prints in the oven secretly even though this is perfectly safe!
Igor: i hurry up to finish the owen test because my wife...
Wife: likes RUclips video on the next day
Interesting as always 👍🙂
The “food safe” claim will be epoxy-dependent.
Hi Igor! I purchased some 3D printed watercolor paint mixing trays, but the paint gets stuck in the grooves. I have looked online, but it seems you have to buy a lot more of the liquid than I need, and it's a fairly complicated process. Do you have any suggestions for an epoxy spray to coat these trays? All I need is that it dries smooth and waterproof. Maybe this is not a question for you. I have considered using clear fingernail polish. 😊 Thanks for your time!
Thanks 🍕🍻
Thanknyou
He only uses one layer of epoxy. Pretty sure that thicker (more layers) epoxy would yield him stronger objects.
One thing I would like to know is if it actually is safe to put the prints in the oven you cook with. I would guess as long as it doesn't get too hot and properly melt or vaporize it would be ok. But I still would not do it. My tin foil hat is too tight for that.
I laugh when people call 3d prints food safe.
Hm, I agree. More accurate expression would be "food contact safe"
none of my PLA has ever attacked any food, it's food safe lol
Or just print in PETG and tick all the boxes?
Not really, same problem with bacterial colonies we have with PETG and PLA. PLA is stronger, but only on room temperature (except it is brittle). Shiny? Waterproof? Same as PLA. Thermal resistance is bigger (approx 75 vs 55°C)
The next test: how angry does your wife get when you put pla in the oven compared to pla in the toaster? The results can be expressed in the number of nights you have to sleep on the couch. I'm just kidding of course, I enjoyed watching your tests 😄
Please don´t use any plastics, resins on any food when it´s possible use glass
Man that music was so cringe . You'd think the guy was curing cancer or something, sheesh .
As an industrial designer and model-maker, I never use a 3D printed object as a final part where durability, strength or sanitation is important. I'd printed parts are great for prototyping or creating masters from which other parts can be molded, although, their stepped surface still requires clean-up and prep.
The filament I tend to use is the standard PLA which is a bioplastic derived from renewable sources and is degradable via various mechanisms. Essentially it's a fairly low-impact plastic. Adding toxic epoxies, paints or other resins significantly raises the carbon footprint for the process.
I hear a slight Slavic accent?.lol I'm just joking I like your command of the English language and your accent adds mystery to your persona.
Yes, slavic accent (I was born in Yugoslavia)
Maybe a good video but the quality in My cellphone si too Bad 144, is so difficult to watch it
I'd rather not do it. Either print in resin which I don't prefer for the same reason, or print FDM in higher resolution, or a stronger filament, or more infill and accept the results. My health is more important than the look of a silly knick knack I am printing.
I completely agree. Also, adding toxic resins and plastics only increases the negative environmental impacts of this technology.
Once when it is cured properly, epoxy is not toxic.
@@MyTechFun Yes. However, the production, packaging, transport, and use of epoxy and other similar resins is toxic and produces a significant amount of waste and unwanted chemical byproducts at both ends of it's lifespan.