Yeah, I started using them a couple of years ago. I always worried about damage to the flex. I used to twist and bend the strands over; the ferrules are much better. thanks for watching.
We would usually swap those MCBs for RCBOs if doing any bathroom work. Fit some blanks as well! And maybe an SPD to protect the rest of the installation including all the LEDs.
I only do what the client has paid for when I take on these jobs. It's not for me to start doing other work and expect them to pay for it. That fuseboard was terrible whoever did it didn't have a clue.
Thanks for the video Delroy. It reminds me of when we stayed with my in laws just after they had had new bathrooms fitted and they had this mirror with the light and a shaver socket (no cabinet, just a slimline mirror unit on the wall), I had to plug in my electric toothbrush and the socket was on the side, so I plugged it in and the whole unit slid across and came off one of its brackets, it just hung on two metal hook brackets at the top and had nothing to stop it sliding sideways. So I found myself holding this thing up in the air, I couldn't even put it down on the floor because the cable wasn't long enough, so just had to try to line it all up and re-fit it! Sometimes brackets on that sort of thing are useless, good to see that one you did had a screw at the bottom!
So disconnect the the dc from the driver to test if the strip works using a drill battery? Surely it takes less time to put your voltage testers on + and - for continuity? and surely less fiddley?
most drill battery's are 18v. leds will be 12v. you can see 12v on the driver so you are likely going to damage then. to be fair at my old job we had a tight space that needed light and i attached a couple strips on a thin metal bar so i could slide in the strip and the eds never had an issue but still if its customers stuff shouldnt be doing it.
Kitchen strip light -- appears the wiring goes through a switch box on the underside of the shelf. No-one appears to have "switched" the switch. Maybe the only problem is lack of finger action? See at time 9:00. They played the switch afterwards -- no difference, so maybe the light system is faulty after-all.
Think he said it’s not on an RCD so it won’t trip if something touches I.e Neutral to Earth! Circuit has already been isolated so no risk of shock unless there’s a shared neutral
It upsets me when you see a customer who is happy with ‘what ever’ There is holes in walls and ceiling all over. It’s not right a mirror light should work from a main light switch.
Thats not good the mirror should of had a permanent feed as there’s a sensor switch for the led strip light, and if they want to use the shaver socket the lights in the bathroom have to be on 😳
You can install is switch if it is 0.6 mt from the hedge of the shower. I could have installed an ordinary switch however, because of the items in the unit, I thought a Fused spur would be best. That way, it can be isolated if an item is faulty. that's my reasoning, anyway
Makes me Laugh People Telling Delroy what to Do on a Job 😂 Like He said He only Does What the Customer pays him To do And Wants Him to do He's Been In the Electrical Trade For A very Long Time . I'd certainly Love Delroy to Do a Job for Me As I Have an Issue At the moment Adding a 5th socket into my Bedroom That was Once covered Up Saying Fuse on it but it's been disconnected For Over 15 Year's Completely From the Electrics. Amazing Work As Always Brother 👏 🩵 Love Watching You.
Delroy, I have mad respect for your thoroughness and professionalism. Good on you mate.
@@TheRCBiker 😁
Thanks for watching.
Nice to see you using ferrules on that fine stranded cable! 👍
Yeah, I started using them a couple of years ago. I always worried about damage to the flex. I used to twist and bend the strands over; the ferrules are much better. thanks for watching.
We would usually swap those MCBs for RCBOs if doing any bathroom work. Fit some blanks as well! And maybe an SPD to protect the rest of the installation including all the LEDs.
How much 30k … ? 😂
@@djg6391 That’s just the call out.
All that sounds good, however it’s dependent on the customer providing the funds. Or do you just do it of your own back?
I only do what the client has paid for when I take on these jobs. It's not for me to start doing other work and expect them to pay for it. That fuseboard was terrible whoever did it didn't have a clue.
@@eastwayelectrical Three comments from Artisan on this one video telling Delroy what to do.....Far out!
Thanks for the video Delroy. It reminds me of when we stayed with my in laws just after they had had new bathrooms fitted and they had this mirror with the light and a shaver socket (no cabinet, just a slimline mirror unit on the wall), I had to plug in my electric toothbrush and the socket was on the side, so I plugged it in and the whole unit slid across and came off one of its brackets, it just hung on two metal hook brackets at the top and had nothing to stop it sliding sideways. So I found myself holding this thing up in the air, I couldn't even put it down on the floor because the cable wasn't long enough, so just had to try to line it all up and re-fit it! Sometimes brackets on that sort of thing are useless, good to see that one you did had a screw at the bottom!
Del, I see a video recently and you can use the positive and negative slots on your drill battery battery to test led strip lights!
You should never connect LEDs directly without some driver to regulate current.
Ok never heard of that, but I guess it would work. thanks for watching.
So disconnect the the dc from the driver to test if the strip works using a drill battery? Surely it takes less time to put your voltage testers on + and - for continuity? and surely less fiddley?
@@BarryBollox. If you have diode mode, doubt that model Fluke tester would though.
most drill battery's are 18v. leds will be 12v. you can see 12v on the driver so you are likely going to damage then. to be fair at my old job we had a tight space that needed light and i attached a couple strips on a thin metal bar so i could slide in the strip and the eds never had an issue but still if its customers stuff shouldnt be doing it.
A click or greenbrook 3 pin connector would have been a nice solution to the switch / mirror connection situation
Kitchen strip light -- appears the wiring goes through a switch box on the underside of the shelf. No-one appears to have "switched" the switch. Maybe the only problem is lack of finger action? See at time 9:00. They played the switch afterwards -- no difference, so maybe the light system is faulty after-all.
That mirror light needs to be permanently fed. Doesn't need a switch, according to the NIC/EIC local isolation is the fuse box
Just because it’s not on an RCD doesn’t mean you can’t get a belt off the neutral…
Think the bathroom needs a 30k re wire?
@@djg6391 allow it 😂😂😂😂
@@djg6391 Now now. Let’s keep it clean😂
Think he said it’s not on an RCD so it won’t trip if something touches I.e Neutral to Earth! Circuit has already been isolated so no risk of shock unless there’s a shared neutral
Bang on right Artisan! The RCD will trip due to potential difference between the live and neutral conductors if I'm correct
i would have advised together with rcbos, to fill in the voids on the cu.
Respect del, great video, hope you are well mate
Hi Sam. Thanks for watching
Hi Delroy, I really enjoy your videos especially the fault finding ones, can I ask what you use to record your work? Thanks !
Hi KC. I use NICEIC program for certification.
@@eastwayelectrical think he means camera ;)
It upsets me when you see a customer who is happy with ‘what ever’
There is holes in walls and ceiling all over.
It’s not right a mirror light should work from a main light switch.
what is going on in this gaff. is it being renovated or do they just live in absolute chaos.
😂
Thats not good the mirror should of had a permanent feed as there’s a sensor switch for the led strip light, and if they want to use the shaver socket the lights in the bathroom have to be on 😳
That's what he done
Hi Delroy, can you install a switched spur in a room containing a bath or shower?
May I suggest you employ an electrician. But the answer is, It’s zone dependant
You can install is switch if it is 0.6 mt from the hedge of the shower. I could have installed an ordinary switch however, because of the items in the unit, I thought a Fused spur would be best. That way, it can be isolated if an item is faulty. that's my reasoning, anyway
Hi Delroy, thanks for your explanation, that’s great, keep up the good work😀
The lady seem really nice.
Yep really nice thanks for watching.
First thing I’d think of is needing a permanent live
Yep
I'm from Pakistan live in sargodha
Hi Malik. Thanks for watching
😐🍺🍺🥃👍🏻
I'm work plumber and electrician
Makes me Laugh People Telling Delroy what to Do on a Job 😂 Like He said He only Does What the Customer pays him To do And Wants Him to do He's Been In the Electrical Trade For A very Long Time . I'd certainly Love Delroy to Do a Job for Me As I Have an Issue At the moment Adding a 5th socket into my Bedroom That was Once covered Up Saying Fuse on it but it's been disconnected For Over 15 Year's Completely From the Electrics. Amazing Work As Always Brother 👏 🩵 Love Watching You.
My work plumber and electrician
house is filthy
*Dilemmas.