Two way lighting grey and black got mixed somewhere along the way, maybe in a hidden junction box. Plenty of slack on the right hand conduit, always dry fit before drilling new holes. Plenty of long length drill bits and screwdriver bits to overcome access issues. If you are reading this Del, not a criticism, love your videos.
When we wire these in new builds, we have a separate twin and earth going to each of the switches thats a switch line and feed. and then to have it come on with the bathroom lights we'll use a double pole switch so that the MEV and lighting circuits dont mix
Great stuff Delroy. You're dead right about the terrible install of the MV unit. As well as the wiring in the way, that flexible pipe (see 9:30) should only be used sparingly, rigid pipe is much better for airflow and preventing dust and you can't tear a PVC pipe, but it looks like the whole runs have been done in flexible pipe. You had no choice but to also use cable ties - not your fault, but the system should never be done like that in the first place. I also bet they cheaped out and it's just Mechanical Ventilation, with no Heat Recovery function, so it just makes the house much colder. Makes me worry about the workmanship of everything else in that block.
I fit the Envirovent MEVs which come with built in humidity tracker so the unit powers up to high speed when it detects humidity when someone has a shower. No need for all that faffing about with switches.
I have had the misfortune of a similar set up Vent Axia with humidity control in one bathroom nothing in en suite and nothing in kitchen, Vent Axia was very helpful but Landlord hadn't a clue what it was, Tennant no idea how it worked. So it was turned off, Why is my bathroom moldy? These units need an annual service to clean filters, Seems a great idea but unfortunately like many clever things nobody has any idea how they work 😂, Great video Delroy ❤👍
Should have got the speed controller spider fan trickle speed for 24hour and high speed for showering and kitchen use or fit a fan in place of the outlet air terminal theres room above ceiling for wires one in shower room and one in kitchen
I’ve seen a few different types of MVHR in my time and some have a third speed operated by a second switch line. Usually, we daisy chain between each bathroom and the kitchen grid. A double pole switch is used to keep the lights and MVHR feeds and switch lines separated. Some MVHR switch lines are also 12v. I.e lighting feed wired to L in, lighting switch line wired to L out and MVHR feed wired to N in, MVHR switch line wired to N out in a double pole switch. This makes the fan boost automatic for the user as when they turn the lights on, the fan boost also comes on from the same single switch action. For this property if the original wiring cannot be used the simplest alternative may be to use a Switchbot bot on the kitchen fan boost switch triggered by wireless Switchbot motion sensors in each bathroom.
How you have the patience to do that del I don't know I could but I wouldn't simple fantastic outcome that fan system is rubbish nice one del 🎉 and your comments at the end are spot on 10/10
These units run 24/7 or supposed to lol. It's a type of central air replacement unit. This system should have a switch in the kitchen to boost the fan unit for when your cooking.
the first word you said said you might have to move some of this stuff he still didn't how ignorant omg how can he expect you to clamber over that rubbish & work
Interesting video Delroy. What a terrible system! Multiple extraction points with no incoming fresh air ventilation?? Don’t know if there are trickle vents in windows but even if there are, people don’t always leave them open. Why did client wait 8 years to get this sorted!! Place must have been full of stale air most of the time - no wonder he had mould everywhere. Very bad for health, esp elderly or children. Not a great design - place needs proper MVHR unit really. Keep up the good work! 👍
Wow - No wonder the fan life is pants if it is trickling away morning noon and night. Wiring diagram would be interesting to see. Nice one Delroy - You wont be defeated.
I was going to suggest taking off the small section near the hatch and use that to patch the pipework then insert a new piece to replace it. If ther three switches feed the boost for the fan without seeing the wiring diagram , you could possible put all three on the connection that the kitchen switch feeds to.
Common issue in the block indicates either bad design originally, any extractor wired in to be continually working is going to fail sooner than one controlled by a moisture stat or timer.
Usually these are wired so they are on a low mode 24/7, and then are boosted when you have bathroom lights on, or you've pressed switched on the boost button in the kitchen.
You would think these fan units would have separate inputs that would match the number of duct fan entries. That way whenever you turned the light on (or switch in the kitchen) the fan would run at full speed. It’s impossible to do it on the mains side as all the switched lives would be linked, resulting in all the lights coming on. 🤔
Surely you could have say 3 switches all connected to the same switched line? if 1 is medium speed and 2 high speed motor spins slow to just remove stale air say you turn the cooker on it powers the extractor up to medium, the shower room etc it goes to high as the steam water content is much higher.
That comment about the rangehood having a carbon filter? Yeah, it doesn't, I'm almost certain of it - my landlord had installed similar external venting extractor in my place and it just vented to the wall or space between floors. Indoor venting rangehoods will have a grill on the front to feed the air back into the room
I think it’s meant to run on trickle continuously, with a boost switch in the kitchen. Not a great set up!! Well done for trying to sort it. An MVHR unit with internet link would solve the issue, but of course they ain’t cheap, and it would require in/out vents to the outside. Looks like the architect/ builder has done a cheap job to try to comply with Building Regs but it’s pretty useless as it is. 😮
Looks like London is full of these dodgy new builds and i'm surprised aint burning. London’s burning! London’s burning! Fetch the buckets! Fetch the fire-hooks! Fire, fire! Fire, fire! Pour on water Pour on water
I don't really understand why you'd want a central ducted exhaust fan in a residential setting like this, to me it just seems a bit overkill, maybe I'm missing something glaringly obvious.
@@klarnorbert Well there aren't any windows in my bathroom or toilet, and they just have stand alone exhaust fans like you'd find in most residential settings.
@@khingtv6060 What's the reason you'd want to do that? Is that so you can heat the living area without needing to turn the heater on? Wouldn't this mean this only occurs when someone's taking a bath or shower?
That's so nice of you to take the challenge and help those people with their problem.
Two way lighting grey and black got mixed somewhere along the way, maybe in a hidden junction box. Plenty of slack on the right hand conduit, always dry fit before drilling new holes. Plenty of long length drill bits and screwdriver bits to overcome access issues. If you are reading this Del, not a criticism, love your videos.
When we wire these in new builds, we have a separate twin and earth going to each of the switches thats a switch line and feed. and then to have it come on with the bathroom lights we'll use a double pole switch so that the MEV and lighting circuits dont mix
We do exactly the same
Great stuff Delroy. You're dead right about the terrible install of the MV unit. As well as the wiring in the way, that flexible pipe (see 9:30) should only be used sparingly, rigid pipe is much better for airflow and preventing dust and you can't tear a PVC pipe, but it looks like the whole runs have been done in flexible pipe. You had no choice but to also use cable ties - not your fault, but the system should never be done like that in the first place.
I also bet they cheaped out and it's just Mechanical Ventilation, with no Heat Recovery function, so it just makes the house much colder.
Makes me worry about the workmanship of everything else in that block.
Another episode of Delroy with his electrical knowledge.
You want knowledge?? Come see me @mainly electrical
I fit the Envirovent MEVs which come with built in humidity tracker so the unit powers up to high speed when it detects humidity when someone has a shower. No need for all that faffing about with switches.
I have had the misfortune of a similar set up Vent Axia with humidity control in one bathroom nothing in en suite and nothing in kitchen, Vent Axia was very helpful but Landlord hadn't a clue what it was, Tennant no idea how it worked. So it was turned off, Why is my bathroom moldy? These units need an annual service to clean filters, Seems a great idea but unfortunately like many clever things nobody has any idea how they work 😂, Great video Delroy ❤👍
As most switched spurs are DP makes no sense to test for output voltage between Line output and Neutral input.
Patience of a Saint! Good job del once again!
Absolutely, the amount of times he asked why British gas. Didn't put the lid back, I'd have told him to leave.
Should have got the speed controller spider fan trickle speed for 24hour and high speed for showering and kitchen use or fit a fan in place of the outlet air terminal theres room above ceiling for wires one in shower room and one in kitchen
No matter the issue you find a way to get it working ! Keep up the great work ❤
I’ve seen a few different types of MVHR in my time and some have a third speed operated by a second switch line. Usually, we daisy chain between each bathroom and the kitchen grid. A double pole switch is used to keep the lights and MVHR feeds and switch lines separated. Some MVHR switch lines are also 12v. I.e lighting feed wired to L in, lighting switch line wired to L out and MVHR feed wired to N in, MVHR switch line wired to N out in a double pole switch. This makes the fan boost automatic for the user as when they turn the lights on, the fan boost also comes on from the same single switch action.
For this property if the original wiring cannot be used the simplest alternative may be to use a Switchbot bot on the kitchen fan boost switch triggered by wireless Switchbot motion sensors in each bathroom.
How you have the patience to do that del I don't know I could but I wouldn't simple fantastic outcome that fan system is rubbish nice one del 🎉 and your comments at the end are spot on 10/10
Ring a spark and dont create him space everyday i get this
These units run 24/7 or supposed to lol. It's a type of central air replacement unit. This system should have a switch in the kitchen to boost the fan unit for when your cooking.
the first word you said said you might have to move some of this stuff he still didn't how ignorant omg how can he expect you to clamber over that rubbish & work
Interesting video Delroy. What a terrible system! Multiple extraction points with no incoming fresh air ventilation?? Don’t know if there are trickle vents in windows but even if there are, people don’t always leave them open. Why did client wait 8 years to get this sorted!! Place must have been full of stale air most of the time - no wonder he had mould everywhere. Very bad for health, esp elderly or children. Not a great design - place needs proper MVHR unit really. Keep up the good work! 👍
Del knows about the veto tool bags 👌
Couldn’t you use a Quinetic switch instead of the kitchen one? I’m sure they do one receiver and 3 wireless switches
Was thinking the same thing but making both bathroom lights wireless.
Wow - No wonder the fan life is pants if it is trickling away morning noon and night. Wiring diagram would be interesting to see. Nice one Delroy - You wont be defeated.
I was going to suggest taking off the small section near the hatch and use that to patch the pipework then insert a new piece to replace it. If ther three switches feed the boost for the fan without seeing the wiring diagram , you could possible put all three on the connection that the kitchen switch feeds to.
Common issue in the block indicates either bad design originally, any extractor wired in to be continually working is going to fail sooner than one controlled by a moisture stat or timer.
Usually these are wired so they are on a low mode 24/7, and then are boosted when you have bathroom lights on, or you've pressed switched on the boost button in the kitchen.
You would think these fan units would have separate inputs that would match the number of duct fan entries. That way whenever you turned the light on (or switch in the kitchen) the fan would run at full speed. It’s impossible to do it on the mains side as all the switched lives would be linked, resulting in all the lights coming on. 🤔
Surely you could have say 3 switches all connected to the same switched line?
if 1 is medium speed and 2 high speed
motor spins slow to just remove stale air
say you turn the cooker on it powers the extractor up to medium,
the shower room etc it goes to high as the steam water content is much higher.
Get it built as fast as possible and leg it
That comment about the rangehood having a carbon filter? Yeah, it doesn't, I'm almost certain of it - my landlord had installed similar external venting extractor in my place and it just vented to the wall or space between floors. Indoor venting rangehoods will have a grill on the front to feed the air back into the room
Del you put yourself out I am an ex sparky and hated faulting
Plenty of slack on all the other ducts so why not just move the fan over instead of joining the ducts.
Don’t think he could get to the screws very well where it was already - probably not practical to move it, plus maybe other ducts wouldn’t reach then?
Fun electritian first finds water leak then electeic
Maybe the permanent live and switch lines are mixed up.
I think it’s meant to run on trickle continuously, with a boost switch in the kitchen. Not a great set up!! Well done for trying to sort it. An MVHR unit with internet link would solve the issue, but of course they ain’t cheap, and it would require in/out vents to the outside. Looks like the architect/ builder has done a cheap job to try to comply with Building Regs but it’s pretty useless as it is. 😮
It is jo
Apart from the supply cable where did the other cable(s) in the joint box go to?
Daft place for them to put the speed switch, I would of stuck it outside the bathroom.
Which bathroom
@@walker1054 both
whats the model number of fan you took out
Looks like London is full of these dodgy new builds and i'm surprised aint burning.
London’s burning!
London’s burning!
Fetch the buckets!
Fetch the fire-hooks!
Fire, fire!
Fire, fire!
Pour on water
Pour on water
taken your daily meds today?
@@tspirit99 taken some bbc today ?
If a builder and plumbers work is shoddy,then imagine how the electricians must route cables and wires through walls and dodge piping
That seems like a 4 day job, I do 4 days and get 1350£ i wonder whats the charge on that?🤔 did it worth the time?
delroy how do you charge for time when doing jobs where you are returning 3 times? Will you just charge your time by the hour ?
I don't really understand why you'd want a central ducted exhaust fan in a residential setting like this, to me it just seems a bit overkill, maybe I'm missing something glaringly obvious.
@@klarnorbert Well there aren't any windows in my bathroom or toilet, and they just have stand alone exhaust fans like you'd find in most residential settings.
The warm air from Bath and ensuite are extracted, fresh air is vented into the living space. where they cross over some warmth can be exchanged.
@@khingtv6060 What's the reason you'd want to do that? Is that so you can heat the living area without needing to turn the heater on? Wouldn't this mean this only occurs when someone's taking a bath or shower?
Ben Patana is right don't call someone to work on your electric if you haven't cleaned access to the panel or the problem area. Pi**es me off.
👍👍👍