HALO Just Changed the Recess Lighting Game with THIS!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
- Save 20% on your system and your first month is free when you sign up for interactive monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/StudPack to learn more!
Hey Gang! We're back! and we're comin' in hot with a brand new product from HALO that just hit the shelves and it's going to change the way homeowners and contractors install lighting in their homes and projects. No attic access only works if you have the right cable, in the right location (which is rarely the case) unless you ask an electrician to run a switchleg ahead of time or get in there and do it yourself! With this light, you can have an entire room powered and lit in less than an hour and we're confident that anyone can do it. It has all of our favorite features, and we're excited knowing that we don't have to fool around with Romex in a 140 degree southern attic. If you have any questions ask em' down in the comment below! Thanks for watching, and we'll see ya on the next one.
Find Your Quick Links here
www.homedepot.com/p/HALO-LT4-...
How to Run your OWN Switchleg and Upgrade your Electrical Box
• How to FIX a REALLY BA...
Adjustable hole saw just like mine:
www.citylightsusa.com/nora-ns...
Another one on Amazon:
amzn.to/3wM2pEZ
Studpack.com
contact: studpack225@gmail.com 
Хобби
Save 20% on your system and your first month is free when you sign up for interactive monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/StudPack to learn more!
I don't do attics anymore because I'm past 35 years old... period... nope to insulation and nope to hot, fiberglass in the skin at night... nope ..
in my 20s I insulated professionally, one of my hoodies my ex washed with her panties...
🤣🤣🤣 I'm at work getting cussed because someone gots itchy and scratchy going on in their pants...
yeah... no Attics anymore, I paid my dues 🤣🤣🤣
Nice that you decided to delete my comment. Do a video where you're replacing an EXISTING old can recessed light with a flush mount LED light (and I'm not talking about retrofitting an LED light bulb).
I thought wrapping with black tape was against code.
Y’all need to add videos to Rumble
Hey Paul, just for your future jobs, whenever I rough in wiring for any switch box, 1,2,3,4,5 gang or more, I always bring the feed wires (hot) in the bottom of the box, and if there is going to be a tap out of that box to feed another switch box or receptacle downstream , I will also bring that outgoing hot in the bottom of the box. That way I always know the cables coming into the box on the bottom are both "hots", and they always get connected together. It makes wiring multiple devices a little simpler.
I've always heard that if you're using a non-contact voltage tester, you should make sure and touch it to something that you know is hot (like an outlet in another room that is on) to make sure that the tester is working properly before you trust it to tell you if the wires you're going to touch are actually turned off. Always good to be doubly-safe when working with potentially live wiring.
In the industry we call that a Live-Dead-Live test and its an excellent idea to make sure your tester is working properly
Normally, throughout the day pros will test their tester several times.
i worked with a old electrician that would touch the wire to find out if it was hot 🔥 or ground out the power wire to find the circuit breaker it was on 😂
Non-contact testers are also known as "death sticks" because they're notoriously unreliable. Any time you have to touch wire with your fingers, the circuit should be tested metal on metal first. Most DIYers aren't investing in $$$$ professional testers and shouldn't be led to believe that the $10 sticks they buy at the hardware store are going to tell them for certain when a circuit isn't energized.
Yep! Always test your tester... whether contact or non-contact on a known live circuit.
A lot of people don't realize how hot an attic can be. I'm in South Florida and I'm in attics at least 4-5 times a week. Highest I've ever measured was 137°. It was too hot to even crawl around with bare hands. Danger level heat.
Used to do HVAC with my father in attics in Florida. We measured 145 one time. We would rotate out after 15 min to avoid heat stroke.
I was gonna say, it was probably a lot hotter than 120!
Our company does a lot of poultry house work. We have to go in the attics of the houses quite a bit. With just the tin roof between you and the sun, it gets scorching. One time on of the guys took out a heat gun. It was 162 degrees at the access hole. The wood trusses were so hot, you couldnt touch them. Even the wire we had to pull down the ceiling got so hot by the time we got where we had to put it, you could almost not hold on to it.
Dallas here. My first summer with a remodeling crew I was the "attic rat" running wiring and ducts.
I am now able to laugh at the desperation I felt at the end (and hottest part) of the day when all I needed to do was insulate that one last duct and I'd be free! And the only thing holding me up was peeling the back off the stupid foil tape with trembling fingers while trying to see what I was doing through the waterfall of sweat running across my eyes.
Like I said, I am NOW able to laugh about it. I lost twenty pounds that summer.
wouldn't last spraying foam.
7:00 Dust Bowl. When we had a whole-house HVAC installed in our house, the company brought along a little old man who was somebody’s grandpa. His entire job was to hold a box up to the ceiling where they were cutting the holes for the vents. We didn’t have any dust in the house because grandpa did his job.
The wire through the ceiling trick to locate potential obstructions is flat out genius!!
Even though you are using a plastic box, its a good idea to tape the hot terminals on the switch because the ground wires are long and exposed. When you fold them into the box and then "shove" the devices in, its hard to know if the ground wires get moved around.
I have been using the Halo recessed lighting for a while now, but never saw that kit before. LOVE IT! Thanks for showing it off
Another great video StudPack!
you can see the ground on the sides man don’t tape it
You’ve a new fan here! Encyclopedic level of information, yet distilled to a form that any layperson with the will to learn can tackle almost any home-related project! Appreciate the fast tempo of your speech, which combined with the depth of knowledge, makes for videos that you have to pause or rewind! Keep ‘em coming, and here’s to a million subs! 👍👍👍👍👍
A father. A son. Electrical circuits. Well, my day is complete. Thanks, boys. You two ROCK!
Have y'all ever tried Wago lever nuts vs the wire nuts? I watch 80% or so of the uploads (I miss them sometimes) and hadn't seen those yet. They work great, and I'd even be tempted to send you some. For DIYers, it makes wiring so much faster than wire nuts, and doesn't damage the wire.
I was just about to ask Studpack about using Wagos. I'm from Germany so I don't know about American Building Code, but Wagos made a huge difference to me in electrical installation. Though I don't use the lever ones but the slim ones where you just stick your wire in. I know it makes hardly any difference regarding conductivity yet wire nuts have a sliiiight advantage over Wagos, but it's never a fire hazard or anything like that. I love that with Wagos you can easily remove single wires without dismanteling the whole setup.
@@0Fidel0 I use both of the Wago types and they work fantastic. I will never go back to wire nuts. The extra cost is worth it.
They’ve mentioned them before, and basically said “use what you like,” I believe.
I always get excited to see a new Stud Pack video waiting for me! I appreciate you fellers so much for your in-depth explanations. Also, thank you for explaining the clamping plate on the switch. I feel that so many people don’t even realize what that plate is for. Keep up the great work!
Nowadays I like to use 4 inch new construction or remolding can for incandescent where it is available because they got the extra safety heat switch built in , just in case something goes wrong with the led light , there is plenty of led recessed modules that will fit in the 4 inch can with the socket plug in for 120 V then you won’t have to depend on finding the proper replacement in a few years when Halo discontinued this model , plus every brand with this type of light on separate driver or driver built in the can have their own secondary DC voltage set up and you can only use the proper oem replacement part .
You should try the Wago 221 connectors, they make everything clean and neat. I always wrap the screws so I can't touch the screws if pulling the switch out.
Man you guys are really giving me confidence to do some work on my new home. It's funny how it seems like Jordan is the one who had the idea for this channel, but Dad is such a natural in front of the camera and a great teacher. I like how you asked him to clarify the wiring stuff, just to give folks a chance to boost their confidence even further.
I really enjoy your videos. Very consice and thorough with very clear explanations! Keep it up!
Studpack Wednesday!! Simpli the best day of the week so far!! I installed a simplisafe system earlier this year for a client for the first time.. Very easy to do & following the directions was easy..
Thank you guys & Keep up the good work!
I’ve been an electrician since 1966 and I’m still amazed at all the technology we have today. So many jobs are so much simpler than when I was an apprentice.
Master Electrician in Florida. Done tons of hi hats without getting in the attic but we are usually dealing with 1 floor structures. A fishtape and patience does the job.
I've watched about 4 of your videos while trying to finish my basement. You are now my favorite show. You are a true teacher and explain key concepts clearly and conscisely. Keep up the good work!
These "wafer lights" have really changed the game when it comes to lighting. I mounted mine in ceiling tiles which I was able to mount within 2.5 inches below the ductwork. Otherwise, I would have literally needed to design my ductwork around where can lights would normally go.
My concern is if one of these lights goes ca'put in 5 years, will I be able to find an identical replacement, or will I be replacing all of my wafer lights? I like how the old Edison base fixtures installed 75 years ago can STILL appear and function fine with a simple bulb replacement.
I’ve put in wafer lights in upstairs ceilings w/o attic access, but only when I didn’t need to run a new switch leg - e.g. I was connecting to and existing ceiling light/fan leg. I simply used fiberglass fishing rods that I can use to run the Romex from light to light and finally to the switch leg.
I love that he emphasizes *selectable color temperature.* That's crucial when you can't just change a lightbulb to go from daylight white to warm white, or vice versa. Without that selectability, you'd have to rip out and replace _the entire fixture_ just to change the color of the light.
Yes I didn't realize about the lights and my porch looks like a prison yard or airport runway.
Something to consider, that I didn't see in the comments and they didn't mention in the video, is if you're putting recessed lighting in a lower ceiling, like a basement, you'll need to take into consideration the beam angle coming out of the lights themselves. If you have them too far apart you'll feel like you're walking in and out of light and get an awkward feeling because you'll be walking in and out of the light beam.
I am not an electrician by trade, but my uncle was and would take me on the job with him when we visited him for the summer in Michigan. He taught me that all power cables come into the box on the upper left and wires going to your device goes out the upper right. I do not know if that is a standard, but all the homes that I have owned have been like that and when I rewired the garage that is how I did it. If it is a box I am not sure of, I always test the circuit and mark it for me later or the next guy that has to go into the box.
Great video stud pack, very informative and great tips, I love all your videos. I've definitely learned a ton of tips and tricks through out your videos. One quick tip as a electrician myself never break off the tabs on a dimmer always just bend them back, its the same width whether bent back or broke off. Keep the great videos coming!
Stoked to see yall getting some sponsorships! So epic. Congrats fellas, you earned it
You've always got well-paced, well-explained videos. I watch your vids for tips on home improvement projects I've got coming up -- but they're so good, I sometimes watch your vids on things I'm not even planning to do. Seriously, I watch some of your vids like: "Oh! Backyard fire pits! I totally don't want one, but I just want to watch them build it and see if I learn something."
Excellent presentation. I like that the photographer chimes in with his questions/observations and you then elaborate. I learned a lot. Well done.
It's good to see you guys back in action!
I was taught to always wrap the wire nuts on any connections in a way that it holds the wire nut on and keeps it tight. Wire nuts can loosen over time and heat up. I’m an industrial electrician but it holds true in residential too.
I installed these recents in my man cave and could not be happier. Tied them to the existing box unused in the center.
Thanks for first making me aware of such product… also thanks so much for your videos… really enjoy your stuff.
dude that simplisafe add!!! so glad yall are getting sponsors! you deserve it!!!!
Thanks for recommending these halo lights, I followed your guide and couldn’t believe how easy it was to install this kit. Grabbing two more for the other bedrooms.
HALO Lights are top notch , no doubt !
just installed one of these, it's fantastic how easy it makes installing a bunch of LED lights in a room, but something important i think everyone should know is to avoid the 0-10v dimmable version. you'll have to do so much extra AND run extra wires to make it dimmable
I’m having this problem too. how do you update to dimmable? I have a feeling I’ll need to run 0-10v lines but to what and where. Manufacturer has left us hanging.
Love the energy between you and your son!!! Great content and always informative!! Keep it coming!!
After having retired a full master bathroom remodel I have found the Wago connectors to be SO much better than wire nuts. Working with the past twisted wires in a remodel is a serious pain. Wago connectors are so much cleaner and really eases future changes. Nice video thanks for making them.
Wire nuts have been fine for the past hundred years, so I see no reason to change to something relatively new and untested.
I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and we wanted to do recessed lights. I did them in our kitchen and was not looking forward to mounting four in the bathroom and being up in the attic dripping with sweat. I'm planning on using one romex line for all four lights so it was going to be a junction box party up there. Oh man am I glad I came across your video. These are a game changer!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to help us all out. Liked and subbed!!
Note: Always re-check with tester AFTER turning off breaker. For one, the breaker at times fails to open when you turn it off. I have always trained apprentices to re-check the box just in case there is a second circuit present in the same box. Simply move the tester around at the rear of the box.. not just what is easy to touch. A second circuit is more common than you realize.
Or you might be working on outlets that your electronics trained father has previously re-wired and crossed two circuits! DAMHIK! LOL I always check now.
Especially if you got stablock / federal pacific breakers
Yep. Always recheck. Also I was taught to touch the hots first with the back of your hand after you were absolutely sure they were off. If you somehow made a mistake, your reflexes will cause you to pull away from the live wires.
@@jmpattillo I touch or grab the " hot " wire with the power ON with my bare hand plenty of times in my electrician career without getting shock .
@@lacuzon39000 I guess if you are well insulated from a ground path then you can get away with it. I'm just glad I've never gotten anything across my heart.
What a fantastic video. Answered all of my questions. Subscribed.
FYI- I just bought a similar saw from the orange store made by Klein. Worked pretty well and was around $30. Good enough for the 4 holes I had to do for my lights. Wish I had watched this video first, I made all of the right marks where the joists were but there were so many and I was in such a rush that, you guessed it, I drilled one hole right where my joist was. Made a big X with a circle on all the other holes after that. Went from a simple job to extra work patching drywall in just a few seconds. Some times I amaze myself with how smart and I am and other times I amaze myself with my stupidity.
I love to see the three way application installed please make a video I couldn’t find one 😊
Love this channel!
Subscribed & looking for more info!
Thanks.
Another great video @studpack. One of my favorite channels for construction and home improvement. Always great music in your vids as well btw!!
I am so glad the assistant asked, "How one will know what color wire goes where?" LOL..
I love devices that have the clamping plates. I hate doing loops around screws. Love the content!!
Good job on the video. I personally am not a fan of those lights. Companies occasionally produce these "innovative" products that are a bit outside the norm, then years from now when components fail or break you can't find replacement parts. In this case one specific driver controls all 4 lights, up to 8. Driver fails there are no lights. You also have those plastic clips that attach to the LV wire, it reminds me of the round discs used for LV wire on landscape lighting, and those discs are usually the first thing to fail. Granted they are exposed to different elements and circumstances than they would be in an attic.
It is a DIY friendly solution, but it has the same drawbacks as traditional can lights-you have to work around any obstruction-joists, ductwork, blocking, bridging, plumbing, etc. That makes it defeat the purpose of being DIY friendly. At the end of the day flat wafers that sit below the joist are going to thrive compared to this product. You can fish either wire from hole to hole and avoid attic work all together, especially when the return is already up in the ceiling-just get it close to the first light location and use poles or tape to hop between them all.
Just a sparky's 2 cents. I wouldn't install this product in my home nor would I recommend them to a customer. Halo is a good brand but this seems short term and gimmicky and likely to be phased out. All the downsides of can light install and one link makes or breaks all the lights. Imagine if an office room had all their 4 foot T8 fluorescent lights controlled by 1 ballast.
I was thinking the same thing...outdoor light connection failures...oh boy. I finally found the solution...those 3M grease filled connector chingaderas and never looked back. I wonder how long those connection points are gonna last in the heat of that attic let alone the heat of my attic in Phoenix?
I bought the 8-light bundle for our kitchen renno and will be returning these because the lights are failing to pair on the app. Lights are on, they’re getting power from the supply and the only online troubleshooting doc Halo has on them only tell you to make sure power is on and that you’re within range of Bluetooth (yes to both). Anyway, just wanted to point out that the power supply isn’t a “hub” for this system, it is basically just a transformer to feed 10v downstream to the lights you place on the wire. Each light has its own Bluetooth transmitter that needs to pair to the app. I was able to get the Halo dimmers recognized, but none of the lights in the kit worked. Experience tells me this isn’t a solid product 👎🏻
I like to make a tag out of the romex sleeve and use a sharpie to write power. I then slip it over the hot wire coming into the box. In the future if I need to get into the box I know which one has the source power. I use the romex strippers (Klein K1412) to cut off the romex sleeve rather than using a knife to open it. It saves me from cutting into the wire accidentally. I also get a clean cut and a sleeve to use as a tag.
I'm usually into car videos. But I enjoy how you walk us through each step
Nice job as always.
Used that same hole saw a few weeks ago while upgrading a church auditorium (from the 70's hanging globes to the 5/8" wafer LEDs). Was so nice not to have to clean up all the flying dust because of the hole saw cover... and the new 5/8" lights fit underneath all the joists. LEDs were a cleaner look, much brighter output, a lot less heat, and use much less power.
Had a few places we needed to widen existing holes... problem was there was no place for the center bit to index. So... I got a light fixture mounting bracket, drilled out the center hole to fit my hole saw pilot bit, and then put drywall screws thru it up into the ceiling drywall (inside the diameter of my cutting legs). Allowed me to index the pilot bit anywhere and widen existing (4") holes to larger (6") holes. (Have also used a piece of 1"x4" cut into a 4" circle, but that was a bit more work and this way I was able to go exactly where I wanted.)
Studpack, yall have saved me tons of money sharing your knowledge. Very detailed and helpful information. Thanks a million fellas. Keep those video's coming!!!
Thank you for shedding some light on the household lighting.
Excellent Video breaking it down and building it up.
You guys are awesome just stumbled across your videos while repairing my home. Subscribed
Used these lights on a home remodel last year. Loved using the product.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! You have a great voice, and I love the detail and editing with your videos! Nice work!
Outstanding stuff Stud pack! Great idea for my living room. Thanks
my favourite channel by far, keep up the good work!
Very well explained
Thank you gang
Great advice on using a wire to check for any blocking. Thanks for the video!
These guys’ videos have been so helpful in my remodeling projects! From this video, I got myself that same hole saw and I also tried these lights. I ended up returning the lights because the lights failed to pair to the app (I should have known a Bluetooth only option for smart features was too good to be true). I had also bought the Halo 3-way switches meant to be used with these and those were the only things that paired 😂
Great explanations along the way. Also nice to be informed of the exact Halo and Lutron products so we can but the exact ones.
Great job in explaining everything as always. Always learn a lot from you. Thank you
Great tips and education video for the dyi’r.🤙🏼💪🏼
Fantastic presentation. As always! Would also love a video on how you drew up that house circuit diagram for the inspector.
We did a video on it right here Ron👊 ruclips.net/video/LTLDhdPqmcA/видео.html
@@StudPack Thanks for the x-ref!
Great tips making it easy thank you
Paul - Here's a tip that I use. I drill a pilot hole before using the hole saw. It's easy to locate the hole saw bit in the pilot hole and keeps the hole saw from accidently wandering.if the hole saw is slightly tipped.
Your videos always come in clutch for my honey do list
Boom! Love it! Thanks guys!
Really good video! Thanks!!
You and your son do an excellent job with your video's / sounds like you raised him right / have a excellent father son relationship...enjoy watching your video's keep up the excellent work and take care...
Really love that you explain everything more than once. I’m an amateur electrician and I didn’t quite understand how you wired up the 2 gang box in the beginning, but when you explained it at the end, I understood. Still don’t understand the purpose of a switch leg. Also, I didn’t know you were from Louisiana. That’s awesome. As a fellow Louisianaian, I love watching your channel.
In a nut shell, the term “switch leg” is a commonly accepted nickname for the wire that runs from the control device (ie the switch, dimmer, timer, motion sensor, photocell, etc) up to the light fixture. A switch leg is always controlled by a device, and never has constant power. Hope that helps clarify !! Cheers.
I did it! All thanks to this video. Just installed in my bedroom and it came out great. I’m in Miami and I waited until this cold snap to go into my attic. Any other day I’d melt in there.
Awesome video! Good to see ya'll are doing well. Those southern attics are a beast unto their own lol. Hope ya don't have to spend too much time in them this summer! Thank you for the videos, they are so great 😁
Great job as always guys...I hope Jordan is recovering nicely!
You are a master at teaching, thanks for the tips and explanations!
Great instructor, clear explanation, easy to follow
When I see a new Stud Pack video I always hit like and watch it to the end. It's the least I can do for this valuable info👍
Been watching a few of your videos. You sir are a great teacher. I'm also in the trades and love learning, thanks
This is awesome. Great content !
Again, you are the master of the tricks, every time you use one of the little tricks, I recall how my pop would use them. Like turning the hammer sideways to get to the tight space over the staple. You guys always do fantastic work and its like 20 minutes of reminiscing for me. Anyone who wants to learn...and learn it right....this is the right channel to watch.
Great job guys. Here in the UK we always sleve the CPC (Circuit Protective Conducytor). You can actually buy cable with the ground already pre-sleaved. Thanks for sharing 😃
Electrician here. We install those lights all the time without getting in the attic as long as there is an existing light. Fish sticks can usually get the job done 🙂
electrician here as well. mmmm....fish sticks. I used to love those as a kid
excellent trick with the coat hanger!
Another great video. As a homeowner I’m not liking the choose of the Fan Controller sticking out like that just asking to be broken by the kids. Very helpful to know when we upgrade our Bedroom fans
You are a great tradesman and Dad. You have a lot of patience. Great work sir.
For sure a three-way video. Thank you I'm a new fan!!!
“I’m up here with you man”, I absolutely LOVE IT!!! 😂😂
Great video, thank you for posting.
Love your videos - very informative. Keep up the great work !!!!
Good JOb...I plan to install those ""pancake lights" in my kitchen now after walk me trough you give me confidence i can do it by myself. thank you a God blessing you and your family.
Nothing hotter than a Cajun attic in August
I’m definitely going with the halo kit after watching your video thanks
Looking to do exact same project in my master bedroom this video helps a lot.
Ssssoooo, before Katrina, we had an attic crawlspace in a hip roof style home like you were in. We installed an oven temperature gauge to see how hot it was during the summer. It would start when opening the hatch it would be 125 degrees and then zoom to 150 degrees after turning on the florescence light. Now, after Katrina, we went to a gable roof with a standing space to house the water heater and HVAC unit. WE have a house length vent on both sides of the house with a roof ridge vent to escape as much air as it could. The hottest it gets now is about 5 to 7 degrees hotter than the outside. Best thing we could have ever done!!! Great video as I am going to try to get similar lights for out bathroom. Great video!!! BTW, we are located on Mississippi Gulf Coast about 1/2 mile from the beach.
Nice video, working with sweaty hands in an attic that has fiberglass blow insulation is not fun. I have done similar work, in my days and from time to time, and here in AZ you can imagine the heat in attics or crawl spaces, even in the spring and fall. From a quick installation, the low voltage lights you are using are great, but I prefer hard wire direct to each light with Romex, for a more service free and solid installation and this is a lot easier than working with BMX or metal pipe as per code in some east coast states. My experience with low voltage lighting, as with landscaping lights have not been favorable, at some point there is chance for loss of continuity due to press fit contact loosening over time, but this also is a matter of how well the press fit connector was designed and installed.
Great Video! I remember installing can lights in the summer and leaving large wet-spots on the ceiling joists everywhere I touched them! Drink more water!
Really informative video. Really liked the wiring explanations and the bowl hole-saw. Thanks for the content as always
Might consider the m12 installation tool with all the variable angle heads. It’s become one of my favorite tools.
Always awesome to see fans wired separately from fan lights. Nice to be able to have the fan running during the day without the lights on, or at night without the lights on, all without having to mess with pull chains.
Yeah, except when the fan comes with a remote that could control the light (& now can’t). Or even worse, when you want to use the Bond Bridge to control the fan and light using Alexa/Google
@@TENTHIRTYONE Is the "Bond Bridge" a manufacturer specific accessory? You could alternatively replace both fan and light wall switches with smart switches to control them individually (on/off/dim).
@@Slim_Savage Pretty sure it was originally wired for just a ceiling light and someone (before me) swapped it for a fan-light without changing the wiring or switch.
Very well thought out installation and great instructions. I really like the idea of those low voltage can lights especially because of the price of Romex wiring these days.
Great video guys I think I'm one of y'all's subscriber from the beginning I just wanted to say the quality of y'all's videos has gotten really good and congratulations on y'all's new sponsor hope more come to ya thanks