Just wanna say Thank You Andy. As a new boat owner I find myself constantly referencing your videos and your level of detail for a DIY’er like me are great. Thank You for all your hard work
Andy great explanation what you built was a Giant Spray booth the trad off is your always have to cut and buff more work but better control for the finish product...
I bought a 26 ft S2 sailboat. I actually worked on the mold for the first one. This boat has never been buffed or sanded. But sanding this boat over and over with different grits and buffing it just seems like a waste of time. Back in the 80s I had a mobile Marine service and sprayed a lot of boats with all grip. I also rolled and tipped them. Some turned out good some turned out bad depending on the humidity in Michigan. I will be painting this boat outside if I do. I am just going to over white the original gel coat. There's no imperfections or dings that I am worried about. It was in the 80s when all grew up first came out and I was a hero of the boat yards in Holland Michigan. But now I'm 63 years old and a little bit nervous because I have messed some up. Which caused a lot of resanding and respring. Mostly because of the temperature and the shop I had to use. It would be warm on one side and cold on the other facing the wall. Question is what kind of reducer should I use for rolling tip? Humidity can be 90% a lot of the time. Love your videos my man!
Yes, roll & tip. I think most of us DIYers would be interested in R&T. I've done it a couple of times but would like some pro tips on rolling & tipping.
If you are having issues with air pressure at the gun, you might want to consider getting an accumulator tank. 3-5 gallon is probably enough. Put your water separation & desiccation before the hose that goes to the accumulator, then put the pressure regulator right at the entrance to the accumulator, then run a shorter hose from the accumulator to your spray gun.
If you want to have consistent pressure at the gun as well as have as many feet of hose as you would like, simply put a regulator at or near the gun. The hose will just add to the volume of your capacity.
That does not work, google "pressure-drop-compressed-air-pipes". The moving air in the pipes creates friction against the pipe walls resulting in pressure drop. When the air stops moving the pressure in the line will reach the equilibrium pressure, but once you pull the trigger and the air starts moving physics takes over and you get a pressure drop due to frictional losses. In shops you typically see the air plumbed from the compressor in solid 1 inch pipe sometimes 1.5 inch around the shop with multiple connection points for regulators / hose connections. Wider bore pipes help reduce frictional looses for the run from the compressor.
I have run an HVLP with 200 feet of hose and maintained plenty of pressure when the regulator was at the gun. If the regulator was at the compressor the pressure loss was significant because you’re not starting with more pressure in the line when you pull the trigger. Having 150 psi in the entire hose will give you more consistent pressure than starting with say, 45 psi.
It was really nice to finally hear someone echo what I've come to believe about HVLPs in general...too many times I've spent hours tweeking pot feed, viscosity, pressure and fluid sets and still not been 100% satisfied. I'd be curious if you've played with the hvlp-hybrids that run off a compressor but allow a lot of blow-thru. I'm a house-painter in a marine area (key west) and get called on to use 2-part high solid poly's like awlgrip and would love to see all the details of your process...too many times I'm left wondering if it's me, the equipment, the product...and it'd be great to just imitate a pro who's got this process dialed in. Thanks!
Hello Andy , please tell people how to properly protect themselves when using these highly toxic materials , and what could happen if they don't . It could save them alot of suffering, thankyou , great video!
Look into trying Signature Finish by Fabulainc, they go by awlgrip color charts. This paint was created by a DuPont paint chemist. Ive used it 4 times and you can roll it, roll/tip or spray and it can be cut and buffed, it holds a shine very well and can take some abuse too
PLEASE do a video on setting up your spray gun!! I’ve sprayed awlcraft a few times and never I seem to always have issues. I watch videos of guys spraying boats and it seems like they only shoot a couple of heavy coats. I always have to shoot like 5 light coats or else I get runs. I figure I must have something setup wrong, so I would LOVE to see a video on how to properly set up a gun for shooting awlcraft.
79,999 Subs Andy.... Great stuff ! Been watching you skills and using it on my fibeglass non-boat projects. Just got myself a Devilbiss FLG5 and 17CFM 3cyl compressor to diy paint my historic trucks. Same time next week ! 👍 🇦🇺
Sorry to correct you but the HVLP does stand for high volume low pressure but it refers to the air only and not the quantity of material it lays down. It is high volume of air which does the atomising but at a low air pressure. The volume of material layer down is controlled by the needle and nozzle size, fan width setting and the person using the equipment.i have sprayed many many things with HVLP with factory finish results, automotive, furniture and fibreglass. Soon to spray a glass boat too, I have the air assisted airless, straight airless and conventional kit too.
A video showing roll and tip technique and materials would be of great help to those of us who are not able make the investment to spray. Keep up the great work, than you.
I've used Jotun hardtop XP a few times, sprayed and roll n tipped, that comes up nice and shiny and I think you can flat and polish that too although I've not tried
I wanted to use Alexseal for my 1966 13 whaler , after getting quotes for all the materials I needed I’m just gonna stick to Awlcraft 2000. It’s way cheaper and readily available .. I’m hoping to spray tomorrow
Andy, you mention that your hose goes from the tank to a REGULATOR which is a combo unit that separates oil and water and fine particles of dirt. Your much better off using a primary water separator that spins the water out and has a auto drain, or a water separator with a desiccant with beads that you can reuse after drying them . Or the ultimate would be a refrigerated air dryer. And here is a fact that MOST shops are guilty of doing. Putting a separator near the compressor. The minimum distance is 25 ft from the compressor, because the air is still hot and does NOT condense enough for the separator to catch and spin the water out and it just passes thru the filter. There is a cheap way to solve this problem, and that is to put a trash can full of water next or near the compressor and coil a length of hose or copper tubing in it at least 15 ft and then you create a poor mans refrigerated air dryer and condense the water properly before hitting the separator.
You should look into Mothane paint by blp mobile It's a two part industrial polyurethane that can be wet sanded/buffed and cost only about 80 dollars per sprayable gallon that can be matched to awlgrips colors
I would really appreciate more info as all knolage is great to have and im trying to teach my kids but as per the norm my kids only learn from other people Thank you for your help Paul Gomm
Yes!!! I paint info is very welcomed, I have been trying to learn about it a lot lately! Been looking also at the Sigmadur 550 that Mads has been using, but info on it is is really hard to find. Not sure if it can be cut and buffed?
I've been going back and forth on that... Was just telling my wife that the new outfit doesn't feel like me :-/ May have to bring the old bibs out of retirement!!
Great Vid. We are trying several antifouling products using 2 quart pressure pot and am confused which conventional paint spray gun we need that can withstand 65 psi max. Could you share the model and brand of your spray gun ? We have quote for Lynx 100C and we were told it can run 60 psi, but i seriously doubt it. I found some of the BINKS guns that can go up to 170 psi but they are expensive. THANKS !
Hm! Well I think you have two people, ones that like to see the projects and process and entertainment, and those who want some additional DIY hand holding...show us what you look before when you start painting but it's true that could be a whole different series. I'm interested in the projects, your personality and some tip tricks and education along the way.
Nice video Andy. I have one suggestion beyond what is suggested by others. What about safety? Two part urethanes are really nasty chemical systems. So how do you suit up? Specifically are you using an air fed full face respirator and if not, what exactly are you using. I would like to see a video on you suiting up to spray Awlcraft 2000 with discussion of the safety issues.
After you spray do u tip it ? I got a 36 ft novi boat I got to do .what would u use to strip paint off ? Heat gun ,power washer ,.its glass over wood .any recourse would be greatly appreciated love an watch ur videos 👍🇺🇸⚓️
Andy, I am a hobby painter but with car primer/paint normally the pressures I'm using are around 20-22 psi for primers, 22-25 psi for base coats and 26-30 psi for clears. Curious why such dramatically higher pressures are needed for these marine applications? Seems like overspray would be a massive problem.
Thank you for the info! I have a Binks pressure fed hvlp, I'm planning on painting my boat soon, do you think the hvlp cap will do with 2k epoxy primer? Thank you!
to the author of this video, Sir you really do got to switch to Alexseal paint, and learn its tweaks to apply it perfect. You will that way offer so much more to your customer, and that will give you good edge over other shops. Alexseal is phenomenal paint, just learn it, and you will only be at an advantage. conventional/pot guns seem to be best, and other guns get improved all the time, and might be an option for trying too
HVLP With turbine does not develop moisture. On a conventional. Spray system you need a good water filter. A good HVLP has Multpleb nozzles. The problem is getting the right pressure at the nozzle . If you spay from a pressure pot ,you can keep the pressure pot at 10 PSIs with a small compressor and have enough pressure at the nozzle
This has nothing to do with paint but do you happen to have any experience in epoxy mixing machines? Very hard to find any information of those. It would be awesome to have that kind of thing in the corner to get ready mixed epoxy for larger quantities needed in boat building.
System Three has a good paint system, it was super easy one to spray once I spent a little time with it, and water-base wet sand and buff. It was roll and tippable, self leveling. I got to do testing for system 3 and if I could get my hands on more, I would shoot it again. I never saw the $$$
You didn’t mention Quantum paint. I’ve been waiting for ever for you to do a follow up message from your previous video, on how that paint is holding up. I’m guessing your not using it anymore?
i’d say try plumbing your air with 1” PRESSURE pvc (safety police will be on you ive been running pvc for 15 years in the barn my buddies have for longer it’s fine) get rid of that little 3/8’s from the compressor then get a 80+ cfm regulator and run that 3/8 with high flow to your gun i’ve got a 3hp single stage 60 gallon on a 100’ 3/8 hose and it runs the paint guns all day long with no problems it makes life so much easier and pressure pipe is $2 a 10’ stick makes a inexpensive upgrade plus the more pipe you have the larger it makes the volume rating you can make a 60 gallon into a 80 gallon tank with enough pipe lol
Thanks for another informative video. I had no idea awlgrip couldn’t be wet sanded and buffed. I heard of people doing it before. good to know. What is the down side if you where to try?
You'l; be left with dull spots that fade very quickly. The pigment in Awlgrip floats up to the surface and is protected by a thin layer of clearcoat. Once this clear is buffed away the pigment is left exposed and does not fare well to exposure. Awlcraft 2000 is solid pigment top to bottom which is why it's able to be cut and buffed :-) Hope this helps!
As a hobbyist, you can get away with this. What the EPA and OSHA require from businesses, with fume and particulate filters and explosion resistant switches, really can be a stopper. Then again, l've seen one genius who used regular switches on machinery that he solvent cleaned...and even after a fire, used them again because "that'll never happen again". Exciting shop.(G)
I’ve struggled with rolling and tipping. Never seem to get a good finish or maybe I’m being too picky... but I don’t want brush strokes showing. I am going to try a paint from Total Boat called Elixir. It’s water based enamel and is supposed to be a hard UV protected paint. Of course the water clean up and low VOC content is the main attraction but being able to touch it up with less prep work is also attractive. Elixir is listed as spray able but my compressor set up is very minimal for that application. I’m thinking about HP airless Harbor Freight (I know, I know...) has a unit that is not very expensive but has good reviews and seems like it will work. I just need to be sure the tip is fine enough to atomize the paint enough for a smooth finish. What are your thoughts?
That gun looks an awful lot like the electric spray rig gun my father uses to paint the sides of houses, would that in theory be an acceptable alternative if you have access to one as well, i dont know what kind of gpm flow either setup has but maybe a little bit of research may expose a new alternative
Jebediah Britt I have this question too. I’ve used pressure pot before and it works but because of the compressor limitation I am thinking of airless....
Jebediah....as a rule of thumb, airless spraying will put down more coating at a higher transfer efficiency, but will not produce a nice, smooth surface. In simple terms, airless tends to orange peel. I've been spraying a plethora of coatings, from residential to commercial to industrial, including automotive and heavy equipment coatings. In any application where I wanted a smooth finish I either used conventional ("air sprayed") or air-assisted airless ("hybrid" system...very pricey). In theory you could use airless then "tip", like you would with a roller, but you're not gaining much in the way of production or finish quality that way.
@@richardmclaughlin8995 I was curious because I use airless for residential painting and I don't have any issues with orange peel. With him having issue keeping pressure if wondered if an airless would give more as pressures and feed aren't issue.
No experience with a pressure pot, only experience with gravity fed HVLP gun. You can spray paints with them without orangepeel. It's perfectly possible, a lot of auto body repair shops use them. Ofcourse you need to thin the paint down a little. I don't think paint have zero flow time, they have flow time and if the flow time is not enough just add some thinner. In my opinion any paint that can be rolled and tipped can be put through a HVLP gun. Because with a roll and tip the paint has to flow a lot more. I chose the HVLP because of the easy setup op. Just a hose and a gun, nothing more.
@@boatworkstoday I remodel and repair boats here on the Carolina coast I have used the short lived cat4, the intrrlux rep syas the cat4 is supposed to be more forgiving than cat 2, waiting for a bigger project before I buy a new can
Mostly I’m interested in viscosity and reducing, I spray a lot of pre and post cat lacquer, and for the most part your good to go right out of the can, it’s the occasional paints that I spray where viscosity plays a big role
I have the Graco Magnum X5 (airless) that I used to paint my basement, worked great. I would love to know your thoughts if you have ever dealt with Grayco. If not, your are welcome to give mine a try if your interested. Here is a link to the Manual, I'll keep an eye for your response. www.graco.com/content/dam/graco/tech_documents/manuals/312/312001/312001EN-S.pdf
Everyone has their own system ,i threw my pressure pot out 10 years ago and use nothing but gravity feed now . Everyone has their own method, I also use total Boat which is a bit different
I spray hinkley 40s with gravity fed harbor freight with imron blue and then throw it in the trash 21.98 loss and still get the mirror finish 27yrs painting
I concur with several folks here. A "Hands on" video of how you set up and actually lay the paint would be very much appreciated.
Just wanna say Thank You Andy. As a new boat owner I find myself constantly referencing your videos and your level of detail for a DIY’er like me are great. Thank You for all your hard work
I am loving the new weekly videos. Keep up the good work.
Now I understand why Mads used roller to paint upper deck, 2 of the best boatwork channels explaining each other.
Andy great explanation what you built was a Giant Spray booth the trad off is your always have to cut and buff more work but better control for the finish product...
I bought a 26 ft S2 sailboat. I actually worked on the mold for the first one. This boat has never been buffed or sanded. But sanding this boat over and over with different grits and buffing it just seems like a waste of time. Back in the 80s I had a mobile Marine service and sprayed a lot of boats with all grip. I also rolled and tipped them. Some turned out good some turned out bad depending on the humidity in Michigan. I will be painting this boat outside if I do. I am just going to over white the original gel coat. There's no imperfections or dings that I am worried about. It was in the 80s when all grew up first came out and I was a hero of the boat yards in Holland Michigan. But now I'm 63 years old and a little bit nervous because I have messed some up. Which caused a lot of resanding and respring. Mostly because of the temperature and the shop I had to use. It would be warm on one side and cold on the other facing the wall. Question is what kind of reducer should I use for rolling tip? Humidity can be 90% a lot of the time. Love your videos my man!
I would like a more detailed video on painting with the gun and maybe a roll and tip thank you
Yes, roll & tip. I think most of us DIYers would be interested in R&T. I've done it a couple of times but would like some pro tips on rolling & tipping.
If you are having issues with air pressure at the gun, you might want to consider getting an accumulator tank. 3-5 gallon is probably enough. Put your water separation & desiccation before the hose that goes to the accumulator, then put the pressure regulator right at the entrance to the accumulator, then run a shorter hose from the accumulator to your spray gun.
If you want to have consistent pressure at the gun as well as have as many feet of hose as you would like, simply put a regulator at or near the gun. The hose will just add to the volume of your capacity.
That does not work, google "pressure-drop-compressed-air-pipes". The moving air in the pipes creates friction against the pipe walls resulting in pressure drop. When the air stops moving the pressure in the line will reach the equilibrium pressure, but once you pull the trigger and the air starts moving physics takes over and you get a pressure drop due to frictional losses. In shops you typically see the air plumbed from the compressor in solid 1 inch pipe sometimes 1.5 inch around the shop with multiple connection points for regulators / hose connections. Wider bore pipes help reduce frictional looses for the run from the compressor.
I have run an HVLP with 200 feet of hose and maintained plenty of pressure when the regulator was at the gun. If the regulator was at the compressor the pressure loss was significant because you’re not starting with more pressure in the line when you pull the trigger. Having 150 psi in the entire hose will give you more consistent pressure than starting with say, 45 psi.
It was really nice to finally hear someone echo what I've come to believe about HVLPs in general...too many times I've spent hours tweeking pot feed, viscosity, pressure and fluid sets and still not been 100% satisfied. I'd be curious if you've played with the hvlp-hybrids that run off a compressor but allow a lot of blow-thru.
I'm a house-painter in a marine area (key west) and get called on to use 2-part high solid poly's like awlgrip and would love to see all the details of your process...too many times I'm left wondering if it's me, the equipment, the product...and it'd be great to just imitate a pro who's got this process dialed in. Thanks!
On the turbine systems is there not 5 stage systems that are better?
Hello Andy , please tell people how to properly protect themselves when using these highly toxic materials , and what could happen if they don't . It could save them alot of suffering, thankyou , great video!
Look into trying Signature Finish by Fabulainc, they go by awlgrip color charts. This paint was created by a DuPont paint chemist. Ive used it 4 times and you can roll it, roll/tip or spray and it can be cut and buffed, it holds a shine very well and can take some abuse too
Hi Andy, definately give us your take on gun setup, pressures etc. Love your work ! Cheers from OZ 👍👍
PLEASE do a video on setting up your spray gun!! I’ve sprayed awlcraft a few times and never I seem to always have issues. I watch videos of guys spraying boats and it seems like they only shoot a couple of heavy coats. I always have to shoot like 5 light coats or else I get runs. I figure I must have something setup wrong, so I would LOVE to see a video on how to properly set up a gun for shooting awlcraft.
79,999 Subs Andy.... Great stuff !
Been watching you skills and using it on my fibeglass non-boat projects.
Just got myself a Devilbiss FLG5 and 17CFM 3cyl compressor to diy paint my historic trucks.
Same time next week ! 👍 🇦🇺
Sorry to correct you but the HVLP does stand for high volume low pressure but it refers to the air only and not the quantity of material it lays down. It is high volume of air which does the atomising but at a low air pressure. The volume of material layer down is controlled by the needle and nozzle size, fan width setting and the person using the equipment.i have sprayed many many things with HVLP with factory finish results, automotive, furniture and fibreglass. Soon to spray a glass boat too, I have the air assisted airless, straight airless and conventional kit too.
A video showing roll and tip technique and materials would be of great help to those of us who are not able make the investment to spray. Keep up the great work, than you.
I've used Jotun hardtop XP a few times, sprayed and roll n tipped, that comes up nice and shiny and I think you can flat and polish that too although I've not tried
Yes a setup video would be great show all parts including the compressor, walk the whole system
If you could do a video on gun set up, and operation along with safety equipment, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for another great vid Andy
I used Imron all my adult boat painting life and it wet sands and buffs out great
I wanted to use Alexseal for my 1966 13 whaler , after getting quotes for all the materials I needed I’m just gonna stick to Awlcraft 2000. It’s way cheaper and readily available .. I’m hoping to spray tomorrow
Your awesome thanks for these videos can't wait to see the Bertram series. I used interlux brightside roll and tip and it's easy to do.
Yes Andy, I am interested in knowing how to set up the gun.
Andy, you mention that your hose goes from the tank to a REGULATOR which is a combo unit that separates oil and water and fine particles of dirt. Your much better off using a primary water separator that spins the water out and has a auto drain, or a water separator with a desiccant with beads that you can reuse after drying them . Or the ultimate would be a refrigerated air dryer. And here is a fact that MOST shops are guilty of doing. Putting a separator near the compressor. The minimum distance is 25 ft from the compressor, because the air is still hot and does NOT condense enough for the separator to catch and spin the water out and it just passes thru the filter. There is a cheap way to solve this problem, and that is to put a trash can full of water next or near the compressor and coil a length of hose or copper tubing in it at least 15 ft and then you create a poor mans refrigerated air dryer and condense the water properly before hitting the separator.
A set up video would be great!
Hi Andy, I'm keen to see your method for applying International 2 part polyurethane using roll and tip.
That boat in the background looks very familiar. My grandpa had one just like it ;)
Definitely make a gun setup video!
Another great video, thanks
You should look into Mothane paint by blp mobile
It's a two part industrial polyurethane that can be wet sanded/buffed and cost only about 80 dollars per sprayable gallon that can be matched to awlgrips colors
I would really appreciate more info as all knolage is great to have and im trying to teach my kids but as per the norm my kids only learn from other people
Thank you for your help
Paul Gomm
Yes!!! I paint info is very welcomed, I have been trying to learn about it a lot lately!
Been looking also at the Sigmadur 550 that Mads has been using, but info on it is is really hard to find. Not sure if it can be cut and buffed?
Great info Andy! Thanks for going over it!
Thanks Kev ;-) Have a great Thanksgiving!
I kind of miss the old bib overalls and red shirt :-)
I've been going back and forth on that... Was just telling my wife that the new outfit doesn't feel like me :-/ May have to bring the old bibs out of retirement!!
Tangents are good, they make for a more interesting video. Like this one :-)
Great Vid. We are trying several antifouling products using 2 quart pressure pot and am confused which conventional paint spray gun we need that can withstand 65 psi max. Could you share the model and brand of your spray gun ? We have quote for Lynx 100C and we were told it can run 60 psi, but i seriously doubt it. I found some of the BINKS guns that can go up to 170 psi but they are expensive. THANKS !
Hm! Well I think you have two people, ones that like to see the projects and process and entertainment, and those who want some additional DIY hand holding...show us what you look before when you start painting but it's true that could be a whole different series. I'm interested in the projects, your personality and some tip tricks and education along the way.
Nice video Andy. I have one suggestion beyond what is suggested by others. What about safety? Two part urethanes are really nasty chemical systems. So how do you suit up? Specifically are you using an air fed full face respirator and if not, what exactly are you using. I would like to see a video on you suiting up to spray Awlcraft 2000 with discussion of the safety issues.
Ditto on the whole process and setup!!!
Ok you win I will start supporting
After you spray do u tip it ? I got a 36 ft novi boat I got to do .what would u use to strip paint off ? Heat gun ,power washer ,.its glass over wood .any recourse would be greatly appreciated love an watch ur videos 👍🇺🇸⚓️
Andy, I am a hobby painter but with car primer/paint normally the pressures I'm using are around 20-22 psi for primers, 22-25 psi for base coats and 26-30 psi for clears. Curious why such dramatically higher pressures are needed for these marine applications? Seems like overspray would be a massive problem.
thx go into the rest on the next vid!!!very helpful!!!!
Great information. I didn't realize that your HVLP Setup needed that kind of CFM! Yikes...that's some serious 2-stage compressor requirements...
I'm doing a complete rebuild on my fiberglass boat. Which is better for the outside of the hull, gel coat or paint?
Yes! Exhaust incineration is a nightmare. Guessing you don't have many neighbors. 😌
Good feed air info! Have you ever used badger hair brushes?
They're awesome if you're able to find true badger hair ;-) I use them for varnishes and they can't be beat!!
Setup video would be awesome
Yeah, I'm curious about setup, mask/protection, application techniques and cleaning tips...
I used Alexseal on Luana. I shot it in my driveway and it turned out great.
Thank you for the info! I have a Binks pressure fed hvlp, I'm planning on painting my boat soon, do you think the hvlp cap will do with 2k epoxy primer? Thank you!
Andy, the Bert is a perfect time to try Alexseal paint ... we'll all learn...😉
awesome video, very helpful, more videos would be awesome,
Great talk...
to the author of this video, Sir you really do got to switch to Alexseal paint, and learn its tweaks to apply it perfect. You will that way offer so much more to your customer, and that will give you good edge over other shops. Alexseal is phenomenal paint, just learn it, and you will only be at an advantage. conventional/pot guns seem to be best, and other guns get improved all the time, and might be an option for trying too
HVLP With turbine does not develop moisture. On a conventional. Spray system you need a good water filter. A good HVLP has Multpleb nozzles. The problem is getting the right pressure at the nozzle . If you spay from a pressure pot ,you can keep the pressure pot at 10 PSIs with a small compressor and have enough pressure at the nozzle
This has nothing to do with paint but do you happen to have any experience in epoxy mixing machines? Very hard to find any information of those. It would be awesome to have that kind of thing in the corner to get ready mixed epoxy for larger quantities needed in boat building.
How about testing rolling and tipping with Awlcraft 2000? if not tried already? Thanks for the video :D
Got a little confused about the type of paint you use. Are you using 2 part or 1 part paint in your shop/paint spray set up? Thanks
Thank you for doing this!
Would painting on steel boats be a future option. As you know, not everything is fibreglass and only two channels do steel.
Great info !!
Question for application of awlcraft 2000 and 545 primer
Paint and primer same gun&pot configuration,same needle size ?
I use the same setup for both paint and primer however the pressure, flow rate and fan width are a bit different
Man you got a sweet set up, I just have 8 fans, and never shut my garage door(=
System Three has a good paint system, it was super easy one to spray once I spent a little time with it, and water-base wet sand and buff. It was roll and tippable, self leveling. I got to do testing for system 3 and if I could get my hands on more, I would shoot it again. I never saw the $$$
question, is there an epoxy paint with nanoparticles, for my underwater ship?
I do not want to use a poison coating
You didn’t mention Quantum paint. I’ve been waiting for ever for you to do a follow up message from your previous video, on how that paint is holding up. I’m guessing your not using it anymore?
i’d say try plumbing your air with 1” PRESSURE pvc (safety police will be on you ive been running pvc for 15 years in the barn my buddies have for longer it’s fine) get rid of that little 3/8’s from the compressor then get a 80+ cfm regulator and run that 3/8 with high flow to your gun i’ve got a 3hp single stage 60 gallon on a 100’ 3/8 hose and it runs the paint guns all day long with no problems it makes life so much easier and pressure pipe is $2 a 10’ stick makes a inexpensive upgrade plus the more pipe you have the larger it makes the volume rating you can make a 60 gallon into a 80 gallon tank with enough pipe lol
Thanks for another informative video. I had no idea awlgrip couldn’t be wet sanded and buffed. I heard of people doing it before. good to know. What is the down side if you where to try?
You'l; be left with dull spots that fade very quickly. The pigment in Awlgrip floats up to the surface and is protected by a thin layer of clearcoat. Once this clear is buffed away the pigment is left exposed and does not fare well to exposure. Awlcraft 2000 is solid pigment top to bottom which is why it's able to be cut and buffed :-) Hope this helps!
Thanks a lot. I had no idea. And absolutely it definitely helps. Your the man!
As a hobbyist, you can get away with this. What the EPA and OSHA require from businesses, with fume and particulate filters and explosion resistant switches, really can be a stopper. Then again, l've seen one genius who used regular switches on machinery that he solvent cleaned...and even after a fire, used them again because "that'll never happen again". Exciting shop.(G)
I’ve struggled with rolling and tipping. Never seem to get a good finish or maybe I’m being too picky... but I don’t want brush strokes showing. I am going to try a paint from Total Boat called Elixir. It’s water based enamel and is supposed to be a hard UV protected paint. Of course the water clean up and low VOC content is the main attraction but being able to touch it up with less prep work is also attractive. Elixir is listed as spray able but my compressor set up is very minimal for that application. I’m thinking about HP airless Harbor Freight (I know, I know...) has a unit that is not very expensive but has good reviews and seems like it will work. I just need to be sure the tip is fine enough to atomize the paint enough for a smooth finish. What are your thoughts?
I have some of that paint to play around with, will likely do a product spotlight on it over the Winter :-)
Are those exhaust fan explosion proof?
Please do a gun setup video
Thank you!!!!
Andy...Why don't you have covers on your outlets and switches?
On another note, Mads seems to be happy with what he is using. Great info as always. Thank you
That gun looks an awful lot like the electric spray rig gun my father uses to paint the sides of houses, would that in theory be an acceptable alternative if you have access to one as well, i dont know what kind of gpm flow either setup has but maybe a little bit of research may expose a new alternative
Have you attempted using an airless? I only ask because of pressure and volume it provides
Jebediah Britt I have this question too. I’ve used pressure pot before and it works but because of the compressor limitation I am thinking of airless....
Jebediah....as a rule of thumb, airless spraying will put down more coating at a higher transfer efficiency, but will not produce a nice, smooth surface. In simple terms, airless tends to orange peel. I've been spraying a plethora of coatings, from residential to commercial to industrial, including automotive and heavy equipment coatings. In any application where I wanted a smooth finish I either used conventional ("air sprayed") or air-assisted airless ("hybrid" system...very pricey). In theory you could use airless then "tip", like you would with a roller, but you're not gaining much in the way of production or finish quality that way.
@@richardmclaughlin8995 I was curious because I use airless for residential painting and I don't have any issues with orange peel. With him having issue keeping pressure if wondered if an airless would give more as pressures and feed aren't issue.
SprAy best result
No experience with a pressure pot, only experience with gravity fed HVLP gun. You can spray paints with them without orangepeel. It's perfectly possible, a lot of auto body repair shops use them. Ofcourse you need to thin the paint down a little. I don't think paint have zero flow time, they have flow time and if the flow time is not enough just add some thinner. In my opinion any paint that can be rolled and tipped can be put through a HVLP gun. Because with a roll and tip the paint has to flow a lot more.
I chose the HVLP because of the easy setup op. Just a hose and a gun, nothing more.
Tip sizes?
Have you tried the awlcat five paint caonvertrr yet?
I haven't (at least not yet :-)
@@boatworkstoday I remodel and repair boats here on the Carolina coast I have used the short lived cat4, the intrrlux rep syas the cat4 is supposed to be more forgiving than cat 2, waiting for a bigger project before I buy a new can
Mostly I’m interested in viscosity and reducing, I spray a lot of pre and post cat lacquer, and for the most part your good to go right out of the can, it’s the occasional paints that I spray where viscosity plays a big role
👍
I have watched your last 3 videos and all I have seen is you talking. It would be nice to see you actually do something
I'm getting there :-) There's been a lot of things to get in order but that's about done!
Once I figure out how.......
Can I get away with spraying with a cheap hardware store style spray gun?
I have the Graco Magnum X5 (airless) that I used to paint my basement, worked great. I would love to know your thoughts if you have ever dealt with Grayco. If not, your are welcome to give mine a try if your interested. Here is a link to the Manual, I'll keep an eye for your response.
www.graco.com/content/dam/graco/tech_documents/manuals/312/312001/312001EN-S.pdf
Everyone has their own system ,i threw my pressure pot out 10 years ago and use nothing but gravity feed now . Everyone has their own method, I also use total Boat which is a bit different
I think he probably uses the pot because it can hold much more material as opposed to a gravity feed.
I spray hinkley 40s with gravity fed harbor freight with imron blue and then throw it in the trash 21.98 loss and still get the mirror finish 27yrs painting
Нихуя не понял (ни хуя не понял) 😄
you cant polish Alexseal...
Of course you can ;-) It's Awlgrip that can't be polished
too expensive for your viewers