Audi A4 (B8) repairs. Episode 1, alternator pulley and serpentine belt change.
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- Опубликовано: 23 сен 2019
- Episode 1 of my latest series covering the Audi A4 (B8) 2008-2016.
With a vibration and screech coming from the accessory drive it was time to change the seized clutch pulley and serpentine belt which runs the alternator, Air conditioning pump and power steering pump..
This is the 2.0Tdi engine so the process will be the same on many VWs, Seats and Skodas with the same engine but it may be in a different location.
DISCLAIMER
This video is only a guide. I cannot be held responsible if you damage yourself or your car when attempting this job.
As you will see from the video access is VERY tight and my hands were VERY close to the radiator and cooling fans so ensure the engine is cold when working on this area.
Have a look at my other videos for more home car maintenance videos.
#AudiA4 #AlternatorPulley #overrunpulley #HomeMechanic #VWAudi #ClutchPulley #SerpentineBelt #overrunningPulley #TurboDiesel #AccessoryBelt #2litreTdi #Diesel #decouplerPulley #ClutchedPulley #Volkswagen 
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If you found this video use full and it saved you spending a lot of money at a main dealer or garage then I would be really grateful if you could drop me a wee donation using the super thanks button and help me make more of these videos. Thank you all, Dave.
Someone just pointed me in your direction with this video it seems to be exactly what the issue is with my 2.0tdi b7 but I just had. New tensioner and serpentine belt fitted not long ago. The guy said it might be clutch pulley on alternator making similar noises etc?
@@georgehurrell8480 If the clutch pulley on the alternator has failed you will get this issue. The belt is constantly pulled tight then slips and the tensioner bangs back making the noise then repeats over and over. Its the tensioner that is making it rattle but the pulley on the alternator that has failed.
I have to change the alternator pulley and I was going to directly remove the alternator from the engine. I happened to see your video and I'm going to try to do it like you, it saves a lot of work.
Thank you very much for the video!!
Greetings from Galicia
Great video. That's the one I was looking for. Great job. Thank you very much👌🤌🤩
Very Nice video....simple and clear! Thanks
Excellent video. I have this issue on an a5 that I want to sell. Was going to just flip it as is but now I'm hoping I can carry out this repair myself to help me sleep at night once sold.
Thanks and good luck with the sale.
Thanks for your video, this helped us a tremendous amount. Very grateful !!!😊
Glad it helped and thanks for letting me know.👍
thank you very much ! It helped me a lot in a difficult situation!
Glad it helped!
You’re doing the lord’s work
I move in even more mysterious ways.
You really didn't want to put the lock carrier into the service position did you? hats off to you were being able to do it with so little access.
GOOD JOB
Great video which has helped me identify the rattling and vibration in my A6. The previous owner spent €1400 replacing the flywheel due to a misdiagnosis of this much cheaper failure. I still have a dealer warranty even though it's a second hand C6 model so I will bring it back to him and get it done.
Thanks again.
I had to replace my alternator pulley as it was seized like yours. The back of my hand looked like I had been mauled by a animal by the time I was finished. So tight to work in.
Its a horribly tight space and at a horrible height for me (6'3") so my hands were cut to ribbons and my back was aching by the end as well.
Cool
Thanks man.
been getting same issue with noise but not the steering only when i rev at cold, been doing my head in for a while sprayed some oil around back of that pulley to test and it helped they reckon 60-80k they last I'm on a mission too change it , already ordered the INA pulley , pd150 arl engine mk1 seat leon 70k
Excellent video and tool list, thank you. I'm afraid the recent 3 degree Fahrenheit weather in Ohio has exposed this issue on my 2008 A3 FSI. Will be scraping my knuckles soon as well.
I hope the job goes well and glad my video helped. Fingers crossed you get a dry day for it.
Just changed mine and your video threw me off a bit tried with the T50 and it just slipped so feared the worst so removed alternator completely when in fact it needed a m10 multispline maybe just my alternator but worth bearing in mind
Really helpful this, thank you for sharing. Can I just check though that you are turning the spline tool anti-clockwise whilst holding the T50 Torx steady? I just cannot get mine to budge and I've read conflicting info about it being a reverse thread?
That is correct. The torx is effectively holding the alternator shaft in place as I unscrewed the pulley. It will be VERY tight as it spends its life being tightened. This is why I bought longer spanners to get more leverage and it still took me a lot of work to free it off (edited for time). Be patient, apply force then release over and over and eventually you will win.
Superb video! Nicely edited. No need for talking just show us how it's done :)
Question : I need to remove the alternator to replace the bearings. Do you know of there is enough space to slide the retaining bolts out without pulling the bumper into service mode? Can't find anything anywhere. Thx!
Thanks Richard. At one point I thought I was going to need to remove the alternator to get this pully off but didnt need to in the end. To me (and from memory) it looked doable to remove without service mode but again, its a very tight work area so it may be quicker in the end to move the bumper. Good luck with it.
Hello, very detailed tutorial! I have tried to replace my alternator pulley on my A5 2.0 Tdi due to screeching noise but without success ☹️
How have you done to remove the clutch pulley? I blocked the Torx with the M10 wrench and tried to unscrew turning the 33 spline tool anti-clockwise but pulley is completely blocked... Even with lubricant overnight and 1 meter tube to multiply strenght there is nothing i could do. How tough was it on your A4?
I did shorten the process for the video, it was really hard to get the pulley off due to being tight and the lack of access. That is why I bought the longer 10mm for leverage and I had a rolled up bit of cardboard in my glove so that I could push on the 17mm harder. In the end I spent a good hour applying then releasing as much pressure as I could over and over when it eventually gave in. Hopefully you will get it, I did think I was going to need to remove the alternator but I kept going with adding then releasing pressure. Good luck with it, Dave.
Excellent How-To my friend. What was the mileage on the car when you had to do that? Thanks
Roughly 108500 miles.
Great video bro. How long is the 16mm spanner?
From memory its about 35cm long. Anything for that bit of extra leverage.
Hey I've just replaced my belt today on my B8 A4 it was a footery wee bastard, but it's so much more quiet! Just a quick question is the alternator supposed to have a slight whine like all dynamos/generators or should it be completely silent? Also I was inspectingmy tensioner pulley it has a run out of maybe 0.25-0.5mm (by eye) but makes no adverse sounds is this also acceptable?? Thanks again for tutorial mate very good video and I've subscribed.
Access is terrible without removing the front panel, glad you got it sorted. Noise from the alternator I hadnt noticed but to be honest I wasnt looking out for any noises so could just be normal. My tensioner isnt perfectly square on the belt either so lets both call it normal and not worry about it. ;-)
@@AstonishingGlasgow Had a listen to my dad's A4 estate there tonight also B8 same engine code and the alternator sounds exactly the same so I'm just gonna chock it up to being normal! Also his tensioner pulley has far more run out so again gonna go for normal lol.. What was the reason for you changing your alternator pulley may I ask was it seized solid? Also should it be able to turn both ways with the belt off as mine does. Thanks again.
Cool, all seems normal then. I replaced my pulley as it had seized solid. It should (When the alternator is not spinning) rotate in one direction but lock in the other. I would suggest yours cant turn both ways or the belt wouldnt drive the alternator. I replaced mine because the locked pulley causes the belt to tense up then slip and thats what causes the tensioner to rattle.
Hi . Just fitted reconditioned steering rack to 2010 citroen c5 1.6hdi. It has an electric power steering pump, but rack seems conventional to me( t40 torx screw holding the 2 pipes into the rack). After fitting, when I start engine (and car stationary) the steering wheel turns by itself to the right until stopping in the full right lock position. This happens if the front end is of the ground or front wheel on the ground. I do think I centred rack correctly before installing, maybe I need to recheck. Basically, what could cause the steering wheel to move by itself always to full right lock position? Any ideas appreciated. Thanks
Im really sorry, I have never worked on a Citroen so I really dont know what could be causing your fault with the steering. If somebody else posts an answer here I will be sure to approve it so that you can read any advice that comes through.
Hi great video. My tensioner pulley is doing the same thing vibrating like mad sometimes. But I think it's the alternator pulley now I've seen your video! Would you have a part number for the pulley? I can't find it on euro car parts website. Thanks
Thanks Nigel. I don't have a part number unfortunately. I was able to buy mine over the counter at the local GSF branch before it closed.
Sorry mate one more question.. is the pulley left hand thread?? Or just f**king tight?! Lol
It is lefty loosey but spends its life being tightened by the belt so it is tighter than a Scotsman's wallet. (its not racist, Im Scottish). I had to buy the long 10 mm spanner to get a bit of extra leverage and it still took a lot of force.
@@AstonishingGlasgow ah good to know mate. Yeh I just ordered some long ass spanners just for this too! Was just worriedd it had left hand thread! LOL
Hey question: Is it possible as a «quick fix» to just tighten the pulley?
That won't solve anything unless the pulley is falling off. There is a bearing and clutch inside the pulley so tightening the bolt in the middle will have no effect on the clutch and make it even harder to remove when you need to replace it.
is it recommended to change the alternator & tensioner at the same time? What makes them go bad?
I would change the tensioner when doing the cam belt and water pump but unless the tensioner is showing signs of going bad I wouldnt change it when doing the alternator. The part that goes bad is the clutch in the alternator pulley.
Hi great vid, what's the 10mm spanner called please
Dont think it has a specific name, its just a long 10mm spanner.
I also got some squeeqy noises on my b9 but i changed the water pump and the timing belt. To be honest i still hear weird noises when its cold outside. The mechanic said the alternator pulley was fine and only change the belt. But i think he should have changed everything.
If you are hands on then the easiest thing to do is release the pressure on the tensioner and see if the pully is locked in both directions. The pulley should freewheel (turn anti clockwise without turning the alternator) if it is working OK.
@@AstonishingGlasgow i ll try it thanks. But other than that could be from somewhere else or its only the fact that it's so cold outside thats why the motor its s little bit to loud(more than -11°)
On my car, the squeak was caused because the pulley was seized so the belt was going tight, pulling the tensioned then the belt would slip and squeal. It is possible that on your car the cold and damp is causing the belt to slip leading to the squeal but the clutch in the pulley should prevent this.
It is also possible that the tensioner bearings or the idler bearings are shot and causing a squeal?
@@AstonishingGlasgow aight mate. Thanks for taking ur time to respond. I think i’ll replica them all is not that expensive. Like that i have everything new on my car and the weird sounds should go away.
No problem, I am happy to try and help. Now that you are at the point where it would be the same amount of work to replace them all as it would be to replace one it would be a good idea if you can afford it. At least you would rule out everything on the belts making a noise.
I have a 1.8T 2008 there is what sounds like a bearing sqeak at idlle so I changed the idler pulley but the sqeaky sound is still there, it comes when the engine gets to operating temperature, do you any idea what could be causing it?? I'm pretty sure it's not the belt though
Could be an idler pulley on the timing belt or more worryingly a fault with the water pump. If the water pump is failing it could be serious as a seized water pump will destroy your timing belt so best get it properly diagnosed soon.
Hello,
Would you happen to have the diagram of the how the alternator belt is supposed to be fitted?
Kind regards,
Aamir Alaracu
Hi, I dont have one to hand that I can post here but if you google "belt diagram" along with the engine and age of your car you should be able to find one online.
Hi, the belt snapped while may car was doing around 20kmph and the car came to an abrupt stop. I have got the belt, pulley and the tensioner replaced but the car won't start. Any suggestion?
Is there any chance something else went wrong that caused the auxiliary belt to snap? Did your AC pump or power steering pump seize? Is your main timing belt intact? Coming to an abrupt halt sounds like something more serious than an alternator belt snapping.
Hello,the sound like “cik cik cik” at 7:55 is normal? i changed every pulley and i hear it like yours sound
Its not so easy to tell as that shot is playing in reverse (giving my tricks away). Are you sure its not ticking from the injectors that you can hear?
I have the same car. Do you think the belt tentioner hardt to replace ?
I think so. If doing the tensioner you would be as well as doing the timing belt, water pump and idlers as you will need to take the front of the car off anyway. I dont see any way to do the tensioner without removing the bumper, headlamps and radiator.
@@AstonishingGlasgow I successfully changed my tensioner in a parking lot, my old one exploded and teared my belt. I did not remove the front, radiator or bumper. I only needed to remove one air hose, the tentioner bolt is REALLY hard to reach and is not accsesable with a rachet only a wrench. I think it took me about 5 hours to install new tensioner and belt, with the real problem was removing the old tensioner.
One question, my new tensioner is jumping up and down, do you think this could me caused by a bad alternator pulley?
Well done, given the access problems its not a job I would fancy doing that way. What you need to keep in mind however is the state of your timing belt and water pump. If the last guy replaced everything at the same time and your tensioner just failed then potentially your timing belt could be very near the end of its life. To test the alternator pully turn it with the belt off. If it spins the alternator when you turn it in both directions the clutch has failed and will cause your tensioner to jump.
@@AstonishingGlasgow thx, parked my car for the time being waiting for parts. My timing belt was replaced recently.
I managed to change the pulley on an a4 2.0 tdi without taking the radiator out, only the bumper. We loosened the radiator in the top so we could pull it back by a few cm, that was enough room for the mission. Although a little tight it saved us some time
can you place link to where you bought the clutch pulley?
I bought mine from a local branch of GSF car parts before it closed.
Hi pal. I appreciate your vid has been up for a good while but they're great as a general Audi repair reference so thumbs up for that.
To my point; I need to do this same job on my C6 A6 but I'm struggling to find the correct numbered part. (I'm not near the car at the moment). Do you have any suggestions as to how best to source correct parts? Or is it a euro car parts jobber?
Cheers, and all the best.
Thanks for the kind words and glad the video is useful.
I dont have a reference for the part number, I am sure I ordered the bits from GS&F so there or euro would be an easy option.
@@AstonishingGlasgow cheers for the reply. I'd forgotten about GSF. Cheers, i don't do myself any favours always shopping for parts when I'm nowhere near the car. Nevermind, appreciate it nonetheless 👍🏻
Hello, how have you buy the key ?
I bought it from ebay. Listed under clutch pulley tool for audi A4.
Just one thing that has me a bit stuck. What direction to loosen the spline nut
With the torx bit holding the alternator shaft, undo the pulley with the spline bit in the normal direction (anti-clockwise).
@@AstonishingGlasgow yeah that's the way I went however the pack that the spline tools came in said otherwise. I feel like I've rounded the torx bolt
It was fiercely tight when I did it but it definitely wound off anti clockwise. That is why it is on so tight is the belt is constantly tightening it to the shaft. I hope the torx didnt strip. It is hard to fully seat the torx because it is inside the pulley so hopefully it just jumped out rather than stripped.
✅✅✅💯💯💯
Can you tell me the length of the T50 bit you're using? I haven't got one, so I want to be sure I order the correct length. Thanks!
The T50 bit I use in the video is 75mm long. Hope this helps.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Thanks mate! I'll try to find one
Its the same length as my spline bits so I think its a standard size for longer bits. Dont go any longer or you will struggle to fit it between the pulley and the radiator support.
@@AstonishingGlasgow Yup, I got the "standard" tool, with the 1/2" socket. That will never fit, so I need the bit you're using. I'm now considering removing the alternator altogether to do the switch. Might be faster than searching for a bit and waiting for delivery. And it will save my hands 😅
I honestly didn't have any trouble getting hold of the bit. I'm pretty sure I got mine on ebay.
I have the same noise, i tought its the Power Steering Pump?
Not in this case, replacing the pully fixed the noise.
@@AstonishingGlasgow thank u very much, btw... Your Video is awsome
Cheers, hope it helps you fix yours and its a lot cheaper and easier than a power steering pump.
@@AstonishingGlasgow i ordered all Parts, ill shoot a massage when im done. 💪
Desperado how did you fix go did it work???
Torque for the pulley bolt?
Use the German setting, Gutten-tight :-D. There is probably a specified torque but to be honest, while running it will tighten its self, thats why its so hard to remove.
From where can I Take this Keys? Thanks
I got mine from Ebay.
I NEED HELP PLEASE. I noticed my mid serpentine wheel is bent to the left so the belt is slowly slipping out and making a loud noise from all the screeching. how to i get out the radiator without fucking up for the AC gas comp? I have to change the mid serpentine wheel and put in a new belt.
Sorry, I meant to reply to you when I approved your comment but got side tracked. You can put the front lock carrier into the service position. This let's the radiator and ac condenser move forward a couple of inches for access without splitting any coolant or ac lines.
@@AstonishingGlasgow thanks alot man.
do you have a picture for the diagram?
Sorry, I do not. I replaced mine in the way it came off. Eventually.
Hi i have car audi a4 2009.12000km when need chang belt?
This belt would normally be changed during a timing belt service. I only changed the belt because I was changing the pulley.
Mate would you do mine im proper thick and with Christmas coming up can't afford garage 🤣
No thanks, the skin on the back of my hands has only just healed from doing mine :-D
How that Pully came off so easy only god knows. I'm here with a vice and a breaker bar and nothing gives. Might as well buy a whole new alternator or better yet a new car
Dont know that mine came off easily, I had to bug longer spanners and nearly broke my knuckles when it finally budged. The video would have been a lot less interesting if it showed an hour of me swearing at it.
@@AstonishingGlasgow i tried even with a impact and it's not budging.. maybe my impact is not powerful enough?
The problem is that if the pulley has been on there 10 years then every time the car runs it is tightening the pulley. It did take me a while before it finally gave in but yours sounds like it is being properly stubborn. If uou are using an impact gun, how are you holding the alternator shaft without the torx down the middle?
@@AstonishingGlasgow im not holding it down. I saw a comment in another video where the shop used an impact and the weight of the spindle would be enough so no need to hold it
You didn't change the Tensioner you change the alternator pulley and fan belt 🤔 at the start of the video it says The Screech is from the belt and The Rattle is the Tensioner but you didn't change the Tensioner
There is no fault in the tensioner so didnt need replaced. The rattle from the tensioner comes from the belt slipping then gripping on the pully. When it grips, the belt gets tight and pushes against the tensioner then as it slips it releases the pressure forcing the tensioner to drop. This all happens so quickly that the tensioner rattles up and down. Once the pulley is changed the belt runs at an even pressure and the tensioner stops rattling.