How to winterize a mercruiser 3.0
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2021
- In this video I show you the easiest way to winterize a mercruiser 3.0, I also talk about certain things that I skip during the process an certain this you should always do!
Items used it this video
rv/marine antifreeze
marine 90 weight gear lube
gear lube pump
fuel stabilizer
engine fog (if you prefer)
common hand tools
Music credit: Music source: bensound.com and pixbay.com
Outro song: No More By Tomh can be found at soundcloud.com under creative commons license: creativecommons.org/licenses/... The song has been shortened to best fit this video
Thanks for watching and consider subscribing!!! 
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Also, when you're draining the gear oil from the outdrive, for those with Gen 2 Alpha One stern drives, you'll want to unscrew the cap from the gear oil reservoir on the engine to ensure that oil drains out of the reservoir as well. It WILL drain out through the lower when given enough time to do so. After pumping 90 weight oil into the lower, top off the reservoir with any remaining gear oil, it's best to fill it up all the way. Just an extra step to be aware of for those with Gen 2 Alpha One Mercruiser engines.
Really like how you explain where the antifreeze is going in the engine parts. Appreciated!! Feeling much better doing it your way rather than through the ears. Thanks
Thanks I definitely prefer this way. Through the muffs or ears is always questionable
Thanks Dale. I’ve done this many years but I needed a good refresher. 🙂
Thanks so much for making this video! Been dragging my feet on winterizing my MerCruiser, planning on doing this Friday with a friend. I've already subscribed to your channel, can't wait to check the rest of it out!
Your welcome, always like herring from everyone. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
@@daleofalltradeshow much antifreeze do you dump in that last hose
@@billjohnson5023 always poor it in until it comes out the same color
Excellent Video Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
I've never seen this fill method...interesting. For 15 years I've been using 5 gallon bucket with a garden hose spigot, and a short hose that goes to the muffs, and fill it via gravity from the bucket sitting on the swim platform with the engine turned on, sucking up the antifreeze through the muffs. When the bucket approaches empty, I spray fogging oil into the carb and kill the engine. Done. Bilge stays dry.
Nice thing is if your putting a boat away that can't be started, or had some issues at the end of the year this way is still a great option to still get it winterized
yeah that's how I am, once it's winterized I never touch it till april or may, I take it to a storage place. If we get a 60 or 70 degree spell in Pennsylvania over the winter (which we do now more and more due to climate change) you better believe I am hopping on the motorcycle
Tip, remove bottom drain screw FIRST then you have less of a mess on your hands.
Also another way I winterize my 3.0l merc is to have a BIG funnel with a hose and garden hose attachment to my muffs, drain the water as you showed, then plug or replace drain plugs... with muffs on and funnel with hose attached,start up motor and start pouring in antifreeze to funnel until same colour comes out exhaust , when this happens I spraying fogging to carb until motor stops. Done! No hose clamp undone no mess around belts! But it does take 2 people to do it this way. Same end result....you can drain again from drain plugs like ya said...I don’t. 10 years I’ve been doing it this way with 100% success as well. Then my out drive as it will be warm and drain easily.... I always change oil at end of season as well for same reasons as outdrive/ moisture!
There is actually a kit you can buy for doing it this way. A box you fill with the antifreeze that has a hose run out to your muffs. Put the box up high on the back of the swim deck ect and start the engine. Run it until the water out of the exhaust come out pink. There's lots of different ways to do it. The nice thing about the way in my video is anyone can do it. If the boat is broke down and not running for the rest of the year you can still winterize it.
Ty best vid out there 😊
Thank you. Glad I could help
Great Video.
GREAT VIDEO!
Thanks for the compliment!
Great video. Second year in a row I watched it
Thanks 👍
Good video. Another way to protect the fuel system that I do. Drain the bowl on the carburetor(s). No amount of stabilizer will fully negate what ethanol does to aluminum.
100 correct. I personally put premium in my boat to help combat that
try ethanol free fuel ??
I love that shirt BTW
I definitely appreciate the video. This is my second year of boating, and I usually have somebody do this for me, but they retired. Long story short I have a question. I’ve watched videos of people running the motor before winterizing so that the thermostat can open up. Do I need to do this?
You don't have to the way do it. There's a 3/13 hole in thermostats so any water that's in it does drain out. Done it this way for years with no issues
I didn't see comments but if you run motor before draining it just put it in gear for a few minutes warms up lower unit gear oil and drains little faster I always drain mine right after last cruise of the yr. I didn't this yr because temps dropped and it rained before fall ceuise was done
You didn't call it out there, but at 5:21, you are reaming the drain hole to ensure any rust and sand that may be clogging the drain hole is cleared. I had drained my block, lots of water came out. Reamed it once, and it started draining full force again for another minute. Never know whats swimming around in there.
Very true
I never drain the engine I put rv stuff in mackey mouse when the stuff go out the engine red I stop the engine
Great tutorial, Thanks!
Tks
Great video, many others out there but don't provide as much coverage for the Merc 3.0. One question, when you go back and pull the plugs on this gen 1, I have a gen 2 so there are 2 blue hoses which have quick disconnects which eliminates the pulling plugs but functions in the same manner, but when you pull the plugs the 2nd time dont you then drain out all the coolant you just put in the block and manifold?
Thank you for the comment. Yes when you pull the plugs a second time you are essentially draining most of the antifreeze back out. However there is still residual amounts laying in the bottom of the block and manifold I've always done it this way and never had an issue plus I store it indoors. For me it's peace of mind knowing that if the antifreeze were to fail and freeze it most likely will not freeze to the point where I would have a cracked block issue as there wouldn't be enough left to freeze. This way I'm still draining the block and I know of any residuals left behind I won't have any issue because it is antifreeze left in there. Hope that makes sense and I didn't over explain it. There's tons of different ways to winterize a boat this is just the way I've done it and always found it to work.
Also another side note. There was one year I left all of the antifreeze in the block and the next year when I started it I noticed that there was quite a large amount of rust that came out of the block on initial startup. I didn't like seeing that. That's not good for the water pump etc. Just another reason I opt to do it this way
@@daleofalltrades Thanks for all the great advice. One note I should mention, I did disconnect the 2 blue hoses for manifold and exhaust a second time similar to as you have done with pulling the plugs. I was curious to see what would drain out after pumping in 5 gallons of -100 Splash in through the muffs. I should mention I let the motor run on just water for about 20 minutes until the temp hit 180 to ensure the thermostat opened before shutting off and draining and then restarting and pushing in the coolant through the muffs. But after disconnecting the 2 blue hoses a second time, I was surprised what came out was more straight hot water and only about a quart or so, with no sign of purple coolant. After reading further posts, I'm concerned the thermo didn't open and the coolant was just circulated through the exhaust and didn't get into the block for whatever reason. I guess to be safe and for piece of mind I can go back to my outside storage spot, uncover the boat, disconnect the 3 clamps and hoses you covered in the video and manually push another few gallons directly through? I was really expecting the coolant to start pouring out the 2 blue hoses when I pulled them the second time, but again nothing but clear water and a quart or two at most. Also interesting that the boat dealer I used last year and the other posted videos push 5-6 gallons of coolant through, but the operator's manual only indicated a capacity of 8.5 quarts or roughly a little over 2 gallons of coolant. Guess if you are using the Muff method the other 4 gallons are wasted in the flushing process while only 2 gallons are held in the block and manifold.
@Dive N Ride that's why I don't like using muffs for winterizing. If it doesn't come out of the block the same color as what went in you are NOT fully protected. I like pouring directly into all the hoses because you don't have to worry about the thermostat being open or closed and you never have to start the engine. I've seen too many people with crack blocks after they have winterized their boat just to find out it wasn't fully protected.
@@divenride6758 I've never had issues just pumping the coolant through the muffs in from the lower. You have to run the engine for 15-20 minutes (using muffs and water from your hose) to completely warm it up before attempting to pump antifreeze in through the lower unit of a Mercruiser 3.0 Alpha drive. That way you know the thermostat will be open since the engine will be up to temp. One of the reasons I like this method is that I run my engine anyway before winterizing...this gets the stabilizer into the fuel lines and carb, and I spray fogger in the carb and in each cylinder head (with the spark plug removed) to prevent corrosion during storage in Winter.
I fill a 5 gallon bucket using 5 gallons of -100F RV biodegradable antifreeze, then drop a 1/4HP pump in there, connect a hose from the pump to the muffs, and have someone else start the engine so I can turn the pump on right before the engine fires. Within seconds all you'll see is pink antifreeze coming out the exhaust. I do this until I've gone through the whole 5 gallons of antifreeze...you must kill the engine just before the antifreeze runs out. This method does waste a lot of antifreeze but it does the job. I live in WNY where the winters are cold and I've never had any issues using this method. It may not be as "fool proof" as pulling hoses and drain plugs, but it definitely gets the water out and the antifreeze in. There's a kit sold on Amazon (about $55) that makes the flush w/antifreeze process even easier.
Is the omc Cobra outdrive similar to the mercruiser? I have same engine as you but outdrive is different. Just got a boat from a family member. Haven’t owned one for over 20 years and last one was an outboard!
The omc outdrives are set up similarly. From my experience however, omc is harder to find parts for. Some shops won't even work on them due to the shear parts shortage for them. I have never owned one but have been told when taken care of and maintained they work great. I work closely with some Marine mechanics and haved learned some of that info from them.
As far as winterization goes you can follow the same procedure.
Hey Dale, 2 questions, was that video from Door county and are you saying that after you fill both the hoses on the engine with antifreeze, you take the 2 hard to get to drain plugs back out? If so, doesn't that drain all the antifreeze back out or is that what you want to happen? Thanks.
You can leave the antifreeze in the engine I prefer to re drain it again. It's personal preference. Also on a side note the rv antifreeze has alcohol in it that can be harmful to some seals. Not door county. I live in Chippewa County
When putting antifreeze in the intake tube (last smaller one) do you just fill until it starts coming back out the tube? Seems it doesn’t take much antifreeze.
It doesn't take much, I just pour until it comes out of the out drive. The little fins that intake the water from the lake.
I drain and replace my gear lube every spring before the season starts. I'm wondering did you drain it and then refill it before winter storage?
I drain and refill it before winter storage so I know the gear oil is fresh and free of any water preventing any freezing of the outdrive and cracking. Cuz out drives can tend to leak as they get older due to poor seals if oil can leak out water can leak in. Just a piece of mind thing.
Do you. have a video on how to prepare de-winterize for the first ride after winterizing and storing?
No 😞 I do not. For the most part you just hook it up to the muffs and start it up until the water come out clear. If you fogged the motor then spark plug replacement sometimes is needed but not always
what about if you drained all the antifreeze? do you have to add water before starting?
@@daleofalltrades
@@user-gz6xb3vf1s no you can either put it in the lake at the beginning of the year and just fire it up or start it on your muffs in the spring I recommend the muffs just on the off chance that you have issues and then you're not in the lake. And if you are using the environmentally friendly antifreeze like you should be there should be no issue with starting it in the late. The system won't run dry long enough to make a difference
dale just a few questions how do you fill the the drive with it trimmed up it takes 32 oz of fluid .
I fill the gear lube with a pump from the bottom drain hole until it come out the vent hole. As shown in the video.... The drive being slightly tilted up isn't going to throw it off very much at all. Also 32oz is 1 qrt. It took a hole qrt to fill verifying that it filled just fine 👍
Also when I put the drain plug back it I trimmed up more also so I had room for my skrew driver to fit... Hope the reply helped explain.
What kind of gear oil do I need to get? Also, I took the drain plug out of the block, not a drop came out. I shoved cable in there to loosen up any buildup, and got nothing. Plenty came out of the manifold tho
You need straight 90 weight gear oil. Not sure what to say about no water out of the block other that that's not normal... Ether way if you can't get it to drain just use twice the amount of antifreeze when winterizing and you should be fine. Make sure it come out the same color it goes in.
Kewl, thanks!
Does your mercruiser have a reservoir inside the boat for your lower unit
No, mine does not. Mine is a alpha 1 gen 1. They didn't start that until get 2 I believe. Short answer no.
hey fellow wisconsinite, same engine I took it on the lake and it cranked but wouldn,t start so I only drained the block and manifold and put it up for the winter. well come spring she wouldn,t turn over locked up could it just be a stuck piston/rust in cylinder how much$$$ to repair?
1st step is tear down to verify the actual problem. Hard to guess a price otherwise. You could tear into it and find much more wrong. If it is a stuck piston your more than likely looking at a full rebuild. $1000 or more.
@@daleofalltrades thanks a million
Take your plugs out and fill the cylinders with penetrating oil. Let it sit a few days and then, GENTLY, turn the engine back and forth by hand or with a wrench/bar. Work back and forth until you can rotate it a full revolution. Drain the engine oil, replace filter and fill engine with new oil, then with the plugs still out bump the starter a few times to get any remaining penetrating oil out of the cylinders. Put your plugs back in and try starting. It’s worked for me more than once.
What size are the drain plugs for the block on a 3.0 mer
All depends on the year. Sometimes there just wing nuts. I also don't know off the top of my head what size.
Hi, quick question. I have the exact same motor. Before you fill the "main inlet hose" are you draining anything? I drained the block and manifold completely and filled with marine antifreeze. Didn't know about the Main inlet hose. This question is only for the main inlet hose...thanks!
I drined the block and the manifold. The block drain is wlthe drain for the main hose.
@@daleofalltrades thanks for the reply..so after i drain the block and manifold from all water then fill them up with antifreeze, i can fill the main inlet hose up with antifreeze also? Theres nothing to drain from the main inlet hose? Thanks
I touch on all that in the video just follow step by step and you'll be good. I believe you are talking about the hose in the video at 8:38. There nothing to drain as it self drains through the outdrive.
@@daleofalltrades yep thats it exactly. I guess i can fill that also. Although i didn't drain any oil because its fresh as of july.
@@daleofalltrades sorry for all the questions. Im new to boating. I winterized the motor last year but didn't know anything about the main inlet hose till i watched your video
Why not putting the drain plug back on and pump the oil from the top?
Gravity won't naturally fill the lower unit I've tried. You have to pump it from the bottom
Where can I get the pump you use to put the gear lube back in? Who sells those?
Walmart in the marine Isle
I just found out that the cheap antifreeze for RVs has alcohol in it and is not recommended for engine blocks. Ugh so now I need to drain the block again before winter
I always re drain it anyway but definitely good to know.
@@daleofalltradesso your stirring the engine with no antifreeze at all? Just a empty engine?
@@Evadingmoto for the most part yes. There's still a tad on there. But yes I drain it all back out again. You can leave it in. Just preference
@@daleofalltrades thank you I just got done with my winterzie. Unfortunately my gear oil was chocolate milk. And container a decent amount of small metal on the magnet. I’m going to flush it more next week
I've been using the WalMart RV antifreeze for 15 years on my 2006 Bayliner 175. Zero issues. Location: Pennsylvania
We live in North Carolina, where it can be 70* in January or February. So, we use the boat. Can I just drain the block and manifold w/out putting in antifreeze?
It's definitely better than leaving it full.
What about water in the bilge pump
Ok I gotta be honest.... I forgot 😂. That being said generally speaking of your bilge is dry those pumps usually self drain and you should be good. Otherwise you can pore a little antifreeze down the exit hose for the pump. Good catch. If I do another video I'll have to mention that.
Bro uses Fram oil filters 😢
Bro does
To much commentary
If I don't over explain then I get tons of questions about things. Thanks for watching
You live in Tennessee! Is that Hiwassee island???
Wisconsin