How To Winterize a Mercruiser/Inboard In 30 minutes! (Super Easy)
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
- In this video, I will show you how to step by step winterize a mercruiser engine in 30 minutes. I have a 4.3 (6 Cylinder) carbureted engine/raw cooled. Of course every boat engine differs in model and configuration, however, the relative same process is applicable.
I hope this video helps you guys out!
#mercruiser #winterizing #boatrepair
I happened to have same type of boat, but 5-liter engine. Thank you very much for your video.
I do similar with the AF, I pour some in to verify it’s coming out of the plugs then replace the blue plugs and continue filling up the hoses. Also make sure AF is coming out of the outboard as well. I also do my oil change during the winterization process.
Thanks so much this helped me a ton
Thanks!
I am a fishing man and I like you videos brother
Thanks for watching buddy!
Thank you bro!
For sure buddy. Thanks for watching and glad it helped out!
I see 6 hoses. Do you take each one off and then put a gallon of antifreeze in each hose?
Why not run the engine briefly to pump your antifreeze around into more of the block? Just a top fill does not get into all of the cooling paths. Run engine until it starts exiting the lower unit. Your 80% is a good start.
you make it look easy
Yes, he does make it look easy. However, you may want to read my October 30, 2012 Amazon write-up.
Thanks! I want to add a tow rack to my Bayliner. What kind do you have on yours?
I am not sure the exact model, but it is very similar configuration to the model in the below URL:
monstertower.com/mt1-wakeboard-tower.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0B5yH7_yd1wMbKioNm_xp-vmXRTQ4mv_w80RRR2JeB5rBBf5InrzMgaAnw6EALw_wcB#265=357
Great video ,I got a sea ray 2005 mercury 4.3 do I have to do that if I keep it in my garage?
It all depends on location and temperatures. If temperatures get under 32 and and stay there I would still recommend to winterize. If your winters are not under 32 and it’s kept in the garage it’s not 100% required. Still could to spray fogging oil into carb to cost pistons and cylinders if it’s going to sit a while!
You should put fuel stabiliser on your last day boating. Only way to get it proper through the system
Exactly. You have to mix it. At least put it in when you put the boat on the trailer. Driving around will help mix it up.
In Texas you never know when is your last day boating?!
I add the stabilizer to a full tank of 94 no ethanol and heat the motor up with muffs and then quickly flip the fresh intake to take 3 or 4 gallons of plumbing antifreze. Pink running out of the leg, Fog the carb. Then I remove and drain the manifolds. Pink comes out of the manifolds, that makes me feel good and I put the plugs back in. I then remove all the bottom hoses and drain the block of all the pink. That's worked for me.
Brian, that has workded for YOU because YOU took the time to drain everything afterwords.
Maybe around salt water I might consider fogging an engine. In Alabama we only have about 3 months of dangerous freezing weather. It is normal for boats to sit up for a month or two. IMO the biggest thing that happens when fogging is it results in fouled sparkplugs and a shitty running engine. I tried it one year and had customers very unhappy when the started up their boats in the spring.
Fogging is not necessary for a 4 stroke. You don't fog a car engine that sits for a few months or even a year do you? The old 2 strokes needed it but not 4 stroke motors.
make sure to drain p.s. cooler
Boat doesn't need to be in water to turn it on?
From someone ignorant to inboard/outboard motors:
Is the fogging something to do with the freezing temps or just the not starting it for a long period of time?
Fogging oil is sprayed to lubricate the pistons and cylinders if it’s going to be sitting for an extended period of time. Fogging oil doesn’t do anything to prevent freezing temps, that’s where the antifreeze comes into play!
When adding the antifreeze do you fill it untill it is to the top of the hose then put it back on?
Yes sir!
can we add antifreeze through thermostat opening instead of opening the hoses
Ben, if you are after that Feel-Good-Feeling, yes. But please, after you do that, open up all drain plugs and allow the NOW ditluted AF to drain out.
are the drains plugs still open when u add the anti freeze or u leave the antifreeze in there?
I typically first leave them out and flush the antifreeze through it to get everything out, then put plugs back in and fill up with antifreeze
I had problem when wing nut broke off . Now I just run antifreeze through block . Was not easy trying to get old wing nut out. Replace it with new 1 .
Heat up a screwdriver and let it melt into the plastic plug then simply unscrew it
Hello, i have an old pop bottle hooked to my "earmuffs" that i pour antifreeze into through the intakes. would i need to drain the plugs via this method?
You are doing it wrong and are going to burn up your impeller. Drain the block and manifolds, then pull the hoses, drain them, then fill the proper hoses to fill the block, manifolds and risers with -100. DO NOT use the garbage antifreeze this guy is using, it is meant only for water systems. It doesn’t contain corrosion inhibitors. Use -100 MARINE antifreeze, not marine/rv antifreeze. If you’re not spending roughly $15.00 a gallon, you’re buying the wrong stuff. After many years of doing this and seeing what happens when it’s done incorrectly, trust me, I’m giving you great advice here. You crack a block and manifolds due to improper winterization, and it’ll cost you $10,000. Don’t fail cheaply.
Good process. All those that are saying the exhaust manifolds are not winterized...you are wrong. He clearly removed each manifold hose and filled each riser with AF until it came out the transom. The drive itself will drain from gravity. Sucking AF through muffs is actually where most people end up with cracked blocks...because they did it incorrectly.
Yet you fail to mention he is using antifreeze that specifically states “not for use in engines”. This is not the proper antifreeze for marine engines, it does not contain corrosion inhibitors. This shit is for marine and RV plumbing systems, toilets, sinks, piping, etc., but not for use in engines.
@rrhistorian8828 man you are a marketing persons dream. It's not meant to be run in an engine. Perfectly fine to use in this situation. Been doing it for many years
spksoftware said; "Sucking AF through muffs is actually where most people end up with cracked blocks...because they did it incorrectly." This is precisely why I posted my October 30, 2012 Amazon write-up! And not so much because they did it incorrectly, but because they used the "kit" in the first place!
Why does sucking AF though the muffs not work?
Do you leave the block full of antifreeze all winter? Or drain before??
Leave it in over the winter. It's meant to go down the drain, so it's non toxic. Just fire it right up in the spring
4:55 holy shit 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂
I only have two blue caps on my 4.3 mercury cruiser in addition to that a blue drain wheel attached to a drain tube.
I looked everywhere on the port and starboard side of the motor and there was no additional blue caps. Is this some sort of a upgrade ?
The bottom two can be hard to see. One on port side is right next to the starter by the manifold. Starboard side is near bottom of the block by most likely your oil filter
Many of the older blocks did not use the blue winged plugs. Instead, they used brass drain cocks which looks like a hex nut in the end. You're engine definitely has some type of drain plug in each side. The starboard side will have one directly in front of the starter. There will be one in exactly the same area in the port (left) side of the block. Also, this guy is a little dangerous as he didn't mention the fact that most mercruisers have a drain plug in the power steering fluid cooler which is on the raw water supply hose coming from the top center of the transom. This cooler is mounted at the top back of some engines and lower port side if others. Also, some have drain plugs in hoses above and below the recirculating pump on the front of the engine for a total of 7 drain plugs.
Is it better to mix some water with the antifreeze? I have been told that with some water it is actually more effective. Good job & video!
Not with this type of antifreeze, use it full strength.
Yeah like P Rhudy says , right on the bottle it says do not dilute
Got a system on my 5.7, turn 6 valves and entire motor is drained in 30 seconds.
O döktüğün pempe neydi
any tips or videos on de-winterizing?
Check your oil and fluid levels, fresh gas with stabilizer, have your batteries fully charged, check spark plugs and fuel lines and replace oil and fuel filters. I’ll make a video this spring on it. Good luck!
I put it in, then run the gas out. Empty. And spray cylinders and run in threw in bucket 🪣 of antifreeze . Then use leftover for my travel trailer 😮😮
The Walmart antifreeze is not for boat engines or any engine. I used to use it, and then I read the fine print. You need the more expensive stuff rated for engines
Thank you!!!! Someone else besides myself who gets it. That shit he is using doesn’t contain corrosion inhibitors, and states on the bottle “Not for use in engines”. All it is for is displacing water out of plumbing systems on boats and in RV’s. Again, thank you for being one of the only ones in the comments to make mention of this. At least we know our engines, manifolds and risers won’t crack due to freezing.
@rrhistorian8828 Do you think it is better to also drain the antifreeze out or leave it in the engine? Your comment about corrosion inhibitors makes me wonder if air or antifreeze is better. I drain after flushing. Joe
@@joesilverbliss1721You leave it in the block, it gives the iron in the block, manifolds and risers a nice “bath” of corrosion inhibitors to keep corrosion at bay during the winter months. Even in fresh water boats, manifolds, risers, etc., can rust through after some time. Use the good -100 and fill it through the hoses AFTER draining the water out of the block and manifolds, the power steering cooler hoses, etc, and then fill those hoses with -100. Do it the right way, not the way this video shows. Every factory service manual states to drain the block and manifolds first, then to fill through the hoses.
@rrhistorian8828 Thanks for the advice. Happy boating! Joe
@rrhistorian8828 Hi, first year boat owner here. I live in North West Pennsylvania and have a Mercuser I.O. 4 cyl. And I want to get the correct antifreeze. I have 5 gallons of that pink Walmart stuff....I'd appreciate any suggestions so I don't have any unnecessary or preventable repairs? Thank you
You should leave the the fuel tank full so there's less space for condensation to build up in there.
That is somewhat of a myth.
The air within the tank above the fuel level, must be pulled in/pushed out by the expansion and contraction of the fuel. This expansion/contraction is caused by changes in temperature.
As temperatures change, fuel expands and contracts.
The less fuel, the less fuel expansion/contraction.
Now add to the mix what occurs to gasoline as it ages from sitting.
Also, as baramectric pressure changes, the air above the fuel is subject to this in/out scenario.
This exchange is minimal.
E-10 and E-15 gasolines are far worse than any air introduced moisture.
If concerned, install a Parker/RACOR true water separating fuel filtration system.
back in 70 &80 fuel tanks made of steel fill them up on rust on bare metal
Your boat has a carburetor?
Yes sir!
You forgot the outdrive. Change the oil in the outdrive, if you have a leaky seal, the water in the oil will freeze there too.
Thanks. I always change my lower unit oil in the spring. Have never had issues in the past.
That is a myth.
Until you crack yours. It happens if there is enough water in the oil. And you don't know that until you drain it. Do you know if one of your seals has leaked over the season in the water? No you don't. ruclips.net/video/jIof2yyMs-c/видео.html
Yes always change in the fall. Engine oil and drive lube.
no way use rv antifreeze in the block. .
didn't say how much anti freeze he put in
Not exact science. I typically put in 3-4 gallons!
Rule #1--------ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS store your boat with a 100% completely FULL tank of non-ethanol gas, not a half a tank!!!!!!!!!!
adding the anti freeze through the t stat is a poor way to do it.... the proper method... is warm up.. drain... put all plugs back in.. then start the motor again and add the anti freeze through the drive. when the pink comes out the exhaust. then fog the motor... the reason you DONT add through the t stat... is because your drive is not protected, nor are the exhaust manifolds.. when you run the motor up while injecting with anti freeze... you protect everything... including the water jackets in the drive... while the way shown here will work to protect the block only... it seriously misses the mark of protecting the whole system.
Exactly how you're supposed to do it.
Exactly what mafia moose said. The method and video posted here is an example of how not to do it. Especially if you live where it freezes and don't want to crack an exhaust manifold or your outdrive. Adding the RV antifreeze through the outdrive is the only way to assure you have all the water out.
I’m a little confused on this but doesn’t the drive gravity drain , and the exhaust manifolds get filled with antifreeze doing what he did ?
Adding antifreeze to the Tstat will not protect the exhaust manifolds and yes the outdrive gravity drains
@@prhudy1854 Roger. Obviously it’s a hot topic this time of year and yup I’m neck deep in the process right now. So the manifolds don’t drain “all the way” or something like that you’re saying when you pull the drain plugs ?
All due respect to Tri Waves Fishing. For those of you who are recently watching this video, please understand that these alleged Winterizing Kits (Camco, West Marine, etc.) may be dangerous in the wrong hands, such as how this video is demonstrating.
See my entry from one year ago.
WRONG!!!!! That antifreeze specifically states that it is not for use in engines. That stuff is for potable water systems, toilets, etc. It does not contain corrosion inhibitors, nor is it to be diluted, like -100 marine antifreeze or -200 marine antifreeze. The proper -100 is available at your local marina or West Marine, use the proper stuff which contains corrosion inhibitors and keep the engine, risers and manifolds from rusting during winter storage. All summer long, you have lake water in that engine without any corrosion inhibitors, that’s why you put it in for the winter months. Again, read the bottle on the -50 Marine/RV pink stuff, NOT for use in engines.
Great way to pollute the water ways...
its non toxic and bio degradable. You use the same stuff for your water systems on a bigger boat. that pink stuff goes in my motor, a/c, genset, and my drinking water and hot water heater. You think a " extreme" watersports enthusiast would know that LOL
Lol. Racing engines don't pollute right? Lol