Let me know your thoughts on whether you would buy a new inboard outboard boat! If you are shopping for a budget used boat or just a new small outboard engine, I have a whole playlist of videos dedicated to shopping for boats! ruclips.net/p/PLP_T5TIhc847wp1WFixPeIhB7PKZwuYhX
Wayne, I’m shopping for a sea-ray with 2 motors. The I/ o seems to be most common. How do you figure out the risers , baffle tubes, etc are of need to be replaced. I don’t trust surveyors from all my years of buying boats. These surveyors usually are not mechanics.
@@edwardwerthner7717 That gets tricky! Some people say replace them in salt water areas every few years and others just look for rust/cracks. I haven't pulled mine yet and I'm NOT looking forward to that project - I anticipate broken studs and spending even MORE time in awkward positions to do the tasks. Sea Ray, like other brands have only recently started offering outboard versions of their boats.
I haven't seen one comment about the huge advantage of the I/O dual-prop drive that comes pretty much standard on almost all Volvo-Penta and Mercruiser V-8 engines, and a whole bunch of relatively high horsepower V-6 engines. Outboard motors with the same HP as an I/O dual-prop counter part do not beat them on the hole-shot or on plane, are not more quiet, & don't track nearly as well especially in reverse!
I still prefer an I/0. They look cleaner and not having to worry about my kids and friends messing with the prop are all perks. Most of the problems encountered with I/Os comes from not maintaining them properly and not inspecting the bellows every year for replacement.
I'm an I/O guy, and I've found many more advantages over the years: 1) Not many folks are trying to squeeze their boat into their garage, but with me, I have 2 to 3 feet more room with an I/O over an OB with the same overall length boat. Wouldn't fit the same boat that has OB(s). 2) Tax, title, and fee's: many states require a separate title and sometimes registration for each OB motor, almost as if each one is a separate boat itself! And in my state, there is an uncapped excise tax for a new OB motor. Not so for a replacement I/O motor, albeit a much lesser sales tax. 3) There are more Alpha drives in existence than any one OB model. And Bravo drives are not far behind. Parts will never be scarce, unlike many OB's that have many variations. Like the V8's that those drives compliment, availability of parts is their superpower. Now the skills and/or patience to install those parts, I yield that those could be ever so decreasing. 4) The I/O engine itself lasts longer than even a power head of a 4 stroke OB with matching HP. Higher torque wins the long game of slugging a boat out of the water onto plane 100's of times. 5) I disagree with easier re-powering with an OB. With an I/O, you don't have to replace the outdrive and the engine at the same time. If you're savy, you can plan a staggered replacement of either and not break the bank with 300+ HP. Not so great that larger OB's are ~$100/HP. So 300 HP OB ~ $30,000, not including installation. I/O will never be this much for that amount of power. 6) One more: I/O's can continue to benefit from propeller innovations, designs, and commodization from the booming Outboard market domination. I remember back in the 90's when a new typical stainless steel prop intended for I/O use could be up to $2500, THEN, in 90's dollars. Thanks in large part to larger outboards driving up volumes and economies of scale in the coming decades, props for OB's and I/O are much more affordable, especially commodity brands that are just as good as the OEM's. And they are better, more efficient, and provide more thrust. And I'm sure the innovations will keep coming for OB/Outdrive props in the years to come. Heck, they might even develop an innovative prop for Electric OB's for which an I/O could still benefit.
Too many good times with my family on our inboard/outboard. The extended swim platform and ability to hang out at the stern are just too appealing. Of course, I’ve got a Cobalt and can only speak of the Cobalt reliability, but I’ve never had an issue with bellows, engine fires, etc. Of course, I keep up with the maintenance. I’m also no obsessed with speed, so power is not a priority.
I've got a 2002 Crownline 202 5.7efi Volvo I/O and I love it. I honestly cant picture an outboard in my near future. I grew up on outboard boats and I vastly prefer the I/O for 'family' boating. I trailer it everywhere and I'm quite familiar with old GM V8's so I honestly enjoy maintaining it.
Agree with everything he said, but there is one additional thing to consider: Handling characteristics. Outboard engined boats handle differently because the weight is farther back and the prop hinges a bit differently. This gives outboard boats more of a feel of the engine pushing the rear end of the boat from side to side to steer. Whereas an inboard/outboard feels more intuitive and integrated. It's more of a sporty steering feel in my opinion. I happen to like the feel. That said, I think outboard is still the way to go. Just wanted to mention handling characteristics because they are quite important to some of us.
for a DIY, the inboard engine have many advantages, the first one is they are based on automotive counterparts so many parts can be way cheaper if you can choose correctly. the inboard engine offers way more possibilities to customize, just say indirect cooling that is a major asset in salt water the inbard engine can be an asset in the weight distribution of a boat, with a jack shaft, it can be located in the center of the boat leading to better stability in heavy sea. you can add many features as A/C, freezer, cabin heater, heavy electrical system, hydraulics and much more , all driven by the engine. an outboard motor is as it is and can not truly be customized but it have its advantages for a small boat as you described very good video.
I agree, a aluminum LS Corvette engine with a few mods or even a cast iron LS with all the conversion parts from Hardin Marine would be hard to beat horsepower and money.
car engine parts on a marine engine not the best idea ! Most of the marine parts are made with anti-spark in mind. Also automotive part will not last in the marine environment
@@willashley6366 If you have ever rebuilt an I/O or inboard angine based on an automotive engine, you should have compared the part numbers on blocks, heads, pistons, rods and crankshafts, these numbers are the same that the one of the auto equivalent, on the engine by itself, the only differences are the camshafts ( spec quite similar to a RV cam ) , the freeze plugs that are brass, the enhaust manifolds that are water cooled and of course, the alternator, starter and distributor that are spark proof. The fuel pump have its atmospheric vent redirected to the carburetor in the case where a punctured diaphragm leaks raw fuel. There is many myths that are well maintained by the industry.
I have had both and the big issue with outboards is the price and cost to repair are much higher also outboards put all the weight on the back of the transom which causes stress cracks. The other plus for an I/O is the weight is more balanced and lower center of gravity and no way are outboards quieter. I/O's aren't going anywhere.
outboards are quieter to the people you pas by i think. But that also depends on the exhaust system on the i/o. Outboards with their underwater exhaust tend to be pretty quiet when they pass where as boats with a i/o and a seperate exhaust above water level can be pretty loud. But for the noise in the boat, with an I/O its just about insulating the engine compartment properly and using the proper engine mounts. You could probably get 4" worth of insulation around your engine in an i/o setup if you really want to go for the quiet thing. WIth an outboard they cant because that would make the thing HUGE and ugly.
I feel like a lot of these situations could be prevented from actually taking care of your boat inboard outboard’s are amazing I like outboards because they’re nice and reliable and easy to work on but it’s pretty easy to check your oil all I have to do is lift up a big seat and check the dipstick!
@@Jarek13 your lift does not have walk boards? my lift has walk boards on both sides they stick out far enough that I can lay a 2x12 across them and have great access to back of the boat
@@imchris5000 previous owner of my boat had that setup, the boat bears the scars of that lift setup. Still useful for many other tasks, I don't discount it. I just had the dock built deeper, same effect. Used your method to work on my drives. Not the point though, rather hear a solid reason why switch.
I have a feeling I/O's will be around for a long while, the superior looks and swim platform area will out weigh the disadvantages, at least on fresh water. I picture I/O surviving on fresh water boats and outboards taking over on salt water (at least for smaller boats, bigger will retain straight inboards), best thing is getting the entire system high and dry for salt.
Actually fresh water cooled IOs are perfect for salt water. I have 2 x 8.2 Mercs with the SeaCore package and loving it. Like you said, the swimming platform look and great performance. Outboards feel different (worse) to me. I will stick to IOs (or PODs!!!)
I thought I would never have anything other than an outboard. I was an outboard snob. I bought a new to me i/o in March. I love it. Nothing like the growl of a V8 chevy 305 in my boat. Edit, and maintenance is very easy. Just depends on what size area the motor is in. I've had zero issues with having enough room for checking oil and changing impeller...the one thing that is definitely a downside to me is the outdrive not being able to lift up out of the water. That's pretty much it, though.
... I guess even big outboards can be taken off and sent to mechanic, having IO means that is far more complicated. I'm sailer and a 10hp diesel down there would be nice and quiet, but my 8hp 2 cyclinder tohatsu is so simple I can fix it...
@@nickbear1816 we do not generally have to flush our engines inboard or outboard (no salt water here). We just trailer the boat home and maybe pump some grease in the trailer’s ‘bearing buddys’.
I am a charter boat company owner since 1976. Every outboard that has been on my boats has cost me massive down time and not less than $25.000 in repairs. 3 years ago, my 29-foot jet boat got a rebuild then the total rotten 225 Mercury was dumped then a 1969 Chevrolet 402 Big block of 500 hp went in the jet boat. Now never does the 402 big block fail to run and it puts out massive power at only 1/4 throttle! At 1/2 Throttle with 8 people on board that jet boat is smoking fast!!! I have run right along the interstate Highway 84 along the Columbia River with 8 clients on board then kept up with the Highway traffic. I have to admit I am to chicken to try more than half throttle. My clients now say the ride in the jet boat is as much fun as catching the salmon !
I agree with some of your points but not all. I/O are a pain to service due to poor access but basic stuff like oil change and winterizing are easy. The marine growth Is not a fair point because you should have antifouling on the lower unit along with the rest of the hull if your storing on the water. And a bellows failure will not sink a boat fast, it will leak but it's not a straight shot into to bilge, water must leak thru the bearing which is packed full of grease or defeat the 2 shaft o-rings. I biggest cons against outboard imo is you can't pull a tube or skier without a tower and your prop is highly exposed to swimmers which is a nonstarter with kids.
I am a boat mechanic/biz owner contractor for a major marina in FL and have been most of my 51 years on earth. I know I/O's , outboards, inboards, airboats, rc boats lol, sailboats etc. Love the vid and I cant disagree with any of it with the exception of not talking about how a busted manifold can blow the engine quickly and the pure fact that many of us marine techs wont work on them unless they are spotless new. I turn down any I/O older than 5 years unless its spotless and I might still turn it down depending on the impression i get from the customer on if i think he is willing to throw the money at it required to do the job correctly. I am an inch away from not working on them at all anymore. I like my yamaha ob and suzuki customers. I show up do maint every year make big money for every one i do. And my customer is always smiling. With an I/O in our salt water it is part after part after problem after problem. Went through them all over the years and now my boat is powered by a 1975 cadillac 500ci punched .30 over. 575 lbs of torque at 3000rpm.. AIRBOAT,, But if i had to stop airboating personaly I would get a Yamaha ob and it would last the rest ofmy life easy with only oilchanges anodes and waterpump services..
@@lukesmith9144 the swim platform is way better on the I/O. without a doubt. The flip down swim platform goes across the entire back of the swim platform. I’m not familiar with what flips down on the outboard version, but the outboard itself occupies a significant notch in the swim platform.
Wayne, years ago I was Director of Advertising at Thunderbird/Formula. And I had the honor of meeting and sitting to talk with Dick Cole, the inventor of the cathedral hull. Dick explained to me that Inboard/Outboard was a terrible drive system. So, I would like to add one huge disadvantage to your list...directly from Dick Cole. Dick explained why straight inboard is the most reliable, outboards are #2, and I/O is by far, #3. It is because an I/O has to take the power from the engine, hundreds of foot pounds of torque, and make 2 full 90 degree turns to get that power onto the prop. That is insane from an engineering standpoint. Worse, the top of an I/O not only has to turn it 90 degrees, but also needs to be able to steer (!). The I/O in effect tears itself apart over time (as any I/O owner will attest). They are thus high maintenance and subject to a multitude of failing parts. Jon Levy
Jon, I would agree that the design associated with outdrive systems is fairly complex and therefore makes the systems more prone to maintenance issues than other configurations. However, I would not characterize the associated engineering as "insane". Its actually very traditional and mature engineering, utilizing hypoid gearsets and U joint assemblies just as have been used successfully and reliably in automotive applications for over a hundred years. Those systems do not tear themselves apart any more than their automotive counterparts do. The fact that there are two changes of direction simply makes it less efficient than you'd have with only one or no changes in direction. Water intrusion from seal failure, and marine growth are the killers of outdrives. Remove that risk and you'll rarely have an issue with a well maintained outdrive. Id never own an outdrive boat that didnt come out of the water after each use. Thats the Achilles heal of I/O systems. All of this having been said, outboards have become serious competitors in what was previously the I/O market. The traditional shortcoming of outboards have all but been eliminated.
if i were in the market i would still get an I/O.. even today... even with all the downsides. I just prefer the way they look and sound (that deep v8 idling sound is just amazing). i would also consider a jet boat as those systems have improved a lot over the years and still give you that clean look. selection is currently very small on jet boats but im sure that will change
I have a Friend who just bought a Yamaha Boat 22 ft with 2 yamaha 125 hp In board engines with jet I would not have that thing.. at 20 MPH its Cranking 6K RPMs Red Lines at 8K so its Top speed isn't that Great even though it is a 4 stroke engines It sounds like a Bee Hive going down the Lake. so Many Rpms I don't care for Jets on anything but a ski.. his boat has no control slow and it aint Fast and it cost him like 75K Geeeez Crazy Nice But about worthless...
I want a jet boat on paper it would be amazing for my area of the gulf since most of it less than 10ft deep but everyone I know that has one has problems with the sea weed
you dont want no Jet Boat Trust me unless its a Old one with a berkely Pump and a Big Block These yamaha and seadoo Boats are not the same beast their little brother the jet ski are...
My boat is an inboard diesel-powered sterndrive. The boat has no swim platform, allowing the outdrive to be tilted up out of the water. The engine cooling is through a seawater heat exchange, no saltwater in the engine block, unlike an outboard. The seawater pump and impeller are accessible from inside the boat like all other serviceable parts, including on demand switchable fuel filters in case of a blocked filter. Replacing an outboard engine is easier, making them a throw-away item. Don't write sterndrives off so quickly. There are fore and against both depending on boat type, size and use. Understanding each system helps with a suitable choice for your requirements. Happy boating
The primary problem with I/O and outboards is where they are mounted (stern heavy) Okay for small boats, but traditional inboards with the engines mounted close to amidships seem to be the best solution for a larger boat . My boat has 2 very heavy engines mounted just aft of amidships and definitely keeps the sea better than similar boats with their engines mounted at the stern. Plus inboards don't have the complexity of the I/O or V-drive options. But for God's sake run the blower before you start any inboard and when you are in a no wake zone.
I had a uesd 25ft. Sea Ray Sundancer I buy used it was 10 years old never had any issues with it I love my inboard outboard engine. My 2nd boat was 10 years old Formula 27ft. with twins 8 inboard outboard loved it. Everyone I know that had inboard outboard engine's didn't have all these issues that you're talking about and I didn't either, I would take an inboard outboard boat over and outdrive any day and I buy my boats used they're too expensive new so to each is own. Here in Michigan you mostly see inboard outboard boats. Love your channel I noticed that your not putting them out like you used to God bless be safe ciao for now.
Thanks for sharing! I was wondering - do you regularly have the outdrive removed to change out the bellows? If so, how often? Many people say it should be done every 2-3 years. Also the winterizing is a challenge on ones with fresh water cooling system (that's what mine has) - but probably not an issue on the ones with a closed(??) cooling system. Are you running closed cooling systems up there?
@@WayneTheBoatGuy My Mercruiser 3.0 has drain tubes you just pull out and put down in the bilge to drain out. They had that 20 years ago. Per the manual that's all that's needed, though I know some people fill the system with antifreeze. Bellows can last 5+ years if you store your boat out of the water. I wouldn't want to keep an I/O in the water all the time.
I live on a lake system and have seen the monster outboards that are now on these boats. Can’t tell you how many people don’t shut off their motor when people are going in to ski getting out. Huge prop just waiting for disaster. Shut all motors off when people are around the rear. Neutral doesn’t cut it.
Most of the statements made in this video are true, but I would like to point out a few things. For some reason this video seems to only compare outboards to gasoline inboard outboards/sterndrives. In this comparison, outboards are superior. If you would compare outboards to diesel sterndrives though, the situation will be a lot more equal. Currently, sterndrives are the only way to get diesel power in smaller planing craft without the use of propeller tunnels or pockets, which are almost always a major design compromise. And nothing else in the current market delivers such high efficiency as a diesel sterndrive. The use of diesel fuel also eliminates the need for blowers, and significantly reduces the fire risk. Engine access is one thing that I think this video is wrong about. Even though it might be a problem for smaller daycruisers, in larger boats, accessibility is almost always very good, and I would argue that working inside the boat is most of the time a lot more comfortable than hanging above the water in the back of the boat. And because the engine is low in the hull and forward of the transom, versus being higher up and behind the transom, both the longitudinal and vertical center of gravity of sterndrive boats will be at better position compared to outboard boats. This generally makes sterndrive boats more stable and make for a more balanced ride.
A really informative video with a lot of good food for thought. Two additions to the list. One thing to consider if storing your boat inside a garage or indoor storage space is the additional length with the outboard fitted boat versus an I/O. If your space is tight, that extra length can be a real concern. On the pro outboard side, the engine being at the back of the boat leaves more interior room for seating and storage.
Didn't read all comments, someone may have mentioned this. When it comes time to repower your boat. Outboard is much easier and gives you a wide range of options to choose from.
For me it depends on what the boat is for. If it's for fishing or work outboard every time, If it's for enjoyment/play I would go inbord due to the cleaner look and usable stern.
...one thing I didn't see mentioned is the shallow water capabilities of the outboards in conjunction with a jack plate..no i/o can compete with the outboard performance in that respect giving the outboard a huge advantage in versatility...
Not so quick with the shallow water. I had an 18 foot flat bottom with a 25 Merc jet and it would run in 12 inches of water but I was at the Sportsman show looking at an inboard jet with the intake up inside a tunnel hull. I believe it was a SJX. It will draft at 6 inches and run in 3 inches on plane with moderate load and a 310 hp inboard.No outboard jet can do that.
@@FradyKatt You aren't even in the ballpark!!! I ran 48 foot, three big blocks on Hamilton Jets at thirty knots with forty passengers in less than eight inches on a regular basis. Didn't see any outboards on those runs!!! They have there place although shallow running is not one of them.
You nailed it! I really can’t think of any reason why I would want another I/O even doing my own maintenance. I always tell people outboards are like lawnmowers. They just keep running and running. If you do the proper maintenance, which is a lot less than an I/O you are in for a great experience. I just upgraded to my next boat with a 2021 OB. I could’ve saved a lot of cash if I bought the same model in an I/O, but I will surely save in the long run! Great video and thanks!
one of the big issues is servicing an outboard versus servicing an I/O when you are at sea. If something malfunctions in the powerhead of an outboard, you are hanging yourself out over the water making repairs to the engine. You are at risk of any time of dropping a tool or a critical part, and having that item disappear into the abyss. With an inboard, if you drop the same item, it's going into the bilge of the boat. While it may be annoying attempting to retireve it, you can at least retrieve it! When it comes to malfunctions at the marina, For smaller boats, it's not hard to yank the boat out of the water and service it on land, where the risk of droppage is minimized, but as the boat gets bigger, so does the challenge and expense of haul-out, and launching. If you have a big boat with a pair of 300 hp outboards, versus the same sized boat with a pair of inboards, servicing the inboards isn't going to involve an expensive pull-out merely to access the powerhead, and minimize dropping parts
All good points - but many 'close to shore' weekend recreational boaters aren't doing their own breakdown repairs on the water, they just call tow boat to get them home.
Outboards balance weird, stress the transom, don't have nearly as good parts availability or interchangeability compared to inboards, aren't nearly as customizable etc and are more complex. It's the other way around IMO, if you can get over the extra maintenance items for a sterndrive.
I had a $500k sports cruiser with an in board out board. I always used the blower fans. First thing I did when I got in board was turn the blowers on and let them run for 10 minutes while did other things. Very very important
Fuel. Diesel is almost always available at the marina, petrol often isn't (UK at least). I hated my sterndrive aka I/O and now have a shaft-driven diesel. But it's still noisy compared to the same size boat with an outboard. On the plus side, my fuel costs a fraction of what theirs does!
a ton of those IO boats have cracked blocks due to not being winterized. all it takes is forgetting it one time or a freak low temp out of season. come to think of it if you want to take a outboard boat out on a nice day in the winter or early spring you can without having the hassel of winterization
I've owned two boats with a inboard motor The first one had several issues with the lower unit on the inboard and the exhaust manifold failure which costed me more than what I paid for the boat and the second one. Very nice. Low hours. First time I took it out. Didn't realize the bellows for the shifter cable was leaking. Let it sit at the marina while we were shopping for several hours came back. Engine compartment was completely flooded about sank. After that bought a boat with an outboard old two-stroke did me good but decided to repower to a four-stroke never been happier with it
I had an inboard)outboard for a good twenty years. I raised all my kiddos and their friends. We were out two and three times a week during the summer. She was a good girl. We had batteries changed and impellers once a year. No problem! I loved that puddle jumper! ❤
An outboard could also use a closed system, but I don't know of any using it. My assumption is because it's not worth the penalties of a closed system since they won't last long enough for corrosion to be what kills them.
As a long time boater, Having Inboards, I/Os, and Now OB's, here's my take. We bought a single 240 Vantage BW, with a 400HP OB, BW does NOT offer any option I'm aware of other than a OB, as most sub 40 footers are this class, many with multiple OBs. Whats my preference, Twin IB's wins hands down, but most of those boats won't trailer behind my F350, won't fit in my NH owned slip 31'1" (Dont' Ask), or the Lift we have in NC. Which leads me to the following, a IO is not the best choice for salt/brackish water as we have in NC, the NH slip is freshwater so it's a non issue but owning 2 boats is way more aggravation than I want. So, IO vs OB, it's a personal call and how your intended use your boat, BW only offers OB's for a reason as most others do in the fishing boat category, or if one can afford or store the Deep Sea fishing battle cruiser an IB is your likely choice. I personally won't diss on OB's or IO's, some things I like about both and some things I don't, if you strictly freshwater boat an IO will serve you well, but, as others have pointed out a BIG OB or even better a multitude of them is just way to cool 😁...... vroooooooom🤑
Great points. Outboards have so many advantages. I went with a Yamaha jet boat because I have young kids who waterski, but eventually I want to get back to an outboard.
Draft is a big negative. Close mounted twins don't work like twin screw inboards. 4 stroke out boards are increasingly popular and can match horsepower in multiples. For those advocating using automotive parts in marine applications - explosion-proof is Not required in automotive but is required in bilge applications. Starters, alternators and even mechanical fuel pumps are labeled Marine for a reason. Marinized engines without heat exchangers corrode from within. Oil pans rot and bad things happen over time, especially in salt water.
Take a look at performance reviews. You will find that many boats that were originally designed for stern drive have worse performance and gas mileage when changed to outboards of similar hp. Also outboards are less responsive when docking, and joystick piloting is less precise, which is a big priority for “harbor hoppers” like myself. Yes outboards have come a long ways, and have some big advantages, but for some boats and some boaters stern drives still work better. I think this fad of slapping outboards on absolutely everything weather it’s actually better or not is going to fade away.
I bought a 1996 Maxum 22ft runabout with a 5.7 merc I/0.. I still own it to this day, and have never replaced the bellows, its never leaked a drop, It has approx 2700hrs, and has only had spark plugs once, alternator, and water pump changed.. Oil changed once per year.. Its never sat in the water, but I also live in Indiana, so it sits out in the cold and changing temps under a tin roof shed next to my camper.. It has been an amazing engine and stern drive.. Maybe they don't make them like they used to, or people just don't take care of their shit like I do..
I work on both. The outboard is a great engine for a fishing boat or a pontoon. However these things have been placed in areas they don't belong and now pushing power that is rather silly for what it is. I have seen these on cabin cruisers and deck boats that are well over the weight capacity. Those boats really need a inboard. The outboards sit right on the back of the swim platform and look terrible. Why would you spend hundreds of thousands to millions and get something that ugly? The most powerful one I seen is the mercury V12 600hp. Well that package weights 1,260 pounds. Then you add in three or four, then you end up having 3,780 to 5,040 pounds hanging off the back. You will need a very strong transom for that. The next issue is cost to maintain/fix. These things are not cheap to begin with. The package I listed above could buy you a house. Four V12's is $332,780.00 The parts is usually subjected to goong through the manufacturer and that could be thousands for just a oil and impeller change. Personally I would stick with a BBC or the LS base they put in boats now. You can build those for power on a very tight budget. Even a diesel is cheaper. So I'll give this trend a few more years, maybe a decade. Then we will see these going for cheap and the inboard being the standard again. A outboard on a fishing boat is a good deal, but it doesn't match a I/O for a pleasure boat and sure dosen't match a inboard for a yacht.
Your points are all nice, but you don’t really get into which is better to pull a water skier or tuber. You touched on the point that you need a higher rope attachment point for the outboard engine but which drive system pulls the skier out of the water faster. Which is more efficient for water skiing. Which provides a bigger wake for for skiers to jump. Neither drive system will provide a wake as big as a wake boat but that is a different monster all together. My guess is that an IO is better for water skiing and tubing. But I am not sure. If you are buying a boat to just drive around and not participate in water sports, then IO might be better.
As a kid my grandpa had a boat with an outboard and he was always drilling into me why his outboard was better for largely the reasons you mentioned. I secretly always thought the sterndrives were cooler. That boat was so friggin loud and the drive was in the way for skiing. As a grown man I am now shopping for my first boat and I still feel the same-the I/O offers such a better experience. Even though we are coastal we will have this thing on a freshwater lake most of the time. My friend on the lake has a 1997 SeaRay bought new and she has never had issues with the bellows or heard of I/O boats sinking. If that was somehow common everyone would know about it. Kind of like terrifying people about the ethanol non-issue. If you are looking for a small boat (say 18-25 ft) that back swim platform and seating area just can’t be beat-if you have a big boat with tons of other cabin areas for people to lounge then I think an outboard would be more attractive. And no--the outboards with "sleek covers" are STILL ugly. You aren't really a style guy Wayne, so apologies if I'm not gonna take ur advice on what looks good. Yamaha jet boats wooed me with their cheap prices and high features but not everyone works on those and they had their own host of issues. Sorry, but can’t wait to get my new sterndrive! And because manufacturers now offer options it does not logically follow that "that is the way things are going." Definitely not on their way out as new I/O boats are sold every day…
Bought a i/o a few years ago. To me it was a no brainer, has a 4.3 GM based engine I am very familiar with, plenty of mercruiser parts/service available in my area. The boat was a northern boat so put up for alot of the year. As a plus the boat has a green stripe my favorite color.
I love my MerCruiser 350 Magnum I/O with through-hull exhaust... When I start it up, heads turn..lol Oil changes are pain but other than that, no issues...... And for what I paid for my boat years ago, which I fell instantly in love with the moment I saw and heard it.... I couldn't even buy an outboard engine for that price.. The new outboards today are great, but they are very expensive to buy and fix when they break.... It's the current fad , but fads come and go..
Interesting video. I've owned both types, and would have to agree with the points but could add a couple more. Problem with larger outboards on 26'+ boats is that if they do need any repairs, and you are in a smaller or remote area, they are put together like a complex mechanical watch. Special tools, and training is required to work on them wheras most I/O engines are basically automotive and much lower complexity. Also, I currently have a deep-vee boat with a 24 degree deadrise, and I like having the weight of my 454 big block Mercruiser magnum sitting low down in the bilge mostly below the water line because the placement adds much balast and lateral stability. Also the weight is more centered fore-aft in the hull so it makes it much easier to balance and trim the boat, and I dont need much trim tab to keep the bow down even running into heavy seas. Furthermore, the stresses and forces on the hull from the weight and power of an I/O are better distributed along the engine bearers inside a hull, but giant outboards load stress on relatively weak and small area transom of the hull at the very back. Not sure how the long term life of boats run hard in heavy seas over the years would be with a row of giant outboards compared to similar I/O power setups.
I agree. I see these boats running 4, 5 and 6 engines off the back and it makes me wonder how they are building these transoms. Let’s be honest heavy fishing boat and 1500+ hp all pushing on the transom and the sheer weight of the engines, I suspect that time will not be that boats friend as the stresses are extreme. But like I said not sure how they are building the transoms, so maybe it’s fine.
Wayne, I had a Hammond Mk.1 Challenger for many years, sold it and then years later bought it back. The interim owner (a mechanic) had run the 2 exhaust manifolds outside the transom with the wonderful growl at idle and roar at speed. (Part of the fun of owning and running the beast) As a matter of course, before starting the engine and idling for a while I used to open the engine bay to allow any possible fuel fumes to escape. Known as mechanical sympathy and common sense. In all the many years I owned the Challenger I never had to change the bellows. When buying a new inboard/outboard I would suggest you look at the design and buy one that has easy and unfettered access to the engine compartment ( i.e. a single hatch to gain access to the engine compartment ) as an addendum I would also say that anyone buying a new or used boat undergo a brief but essential course in how to run and manoeuvre the vessel. Watching some 'Haulover' clips one wonders why some idiots are allowed to use boats. You mention the outboard engines are faster. I had an inboard 260 hp. Mercruiser engine which on a calm sea and light load would top out at around 90 mph. All the best and Happy and Safe boating.
Twenty two years ago I purchased a new Cobalt 206 (Inboard/Outboard). The best decision I've ever made. Reliable fun for swimming, tubing, waterskiing, etc. Love my Cobalt.
My 1998 SeaRay 185 was bought used 15 years ago. I’ve had no major problems with it. However it’s only in the water for 5 months of the year and I winterized it for storage including draining all water out of the engine. Oil and gear lube change every year etc. Stored outside all winter with a Navigloo in -10 to-30 degree temps. Hopefully will get many more years. 🥰
I have a 1977 mark twain like the maroon and white boat in this video. Winterizing is simple. I start engine and spray carburetor fogging oil into carburetor till engine quits. Then I drain the petcock on the engine block and pull main water hose and pour 50/50 mix antifreeze in till antifreeze starts to come out of petcock engine block drain. I close drain and I am done. For good measure I pull outdrive water pump hose to the motor and pour 50/50 mix antifreeze in until antifreeze leaks out of the outdrive water pick up. I am done and I did all this in 15 minutes. When I start the engine up for summer I hook earmuffs up to engine outdrive and water hose. Turn water on. I start engine and let idle for 15 minutes. Antifreeze is flushed out and I am ready to go get some gasoline at the gas station. Off to the lake I go. Not difficult at all. Outboards are fine. Just get a suzuki or Yamaha. Extremely reliable. Mercury has too many problems as of this writing.
I have always preferred an OB. One of my concern's is that I run boats in the fall and winter times in the PNW. It can be a key thing when it is 32° F outside, flushing out the motor after your done is a helluva lot better. Inboards will retain water in the block whereas an OB won't. With water retained in the block, you have highly considerable chances to have your block frozen and cracked.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I don’t understand this winterizing. Most people where I live (Norway) keep their boats on the water year round and we are well below freezing. I’ve never heard of anyone using clean fresh water for coolant. The boats which are stored on the hard during winter are mostly open boats with outboard engines.
@@devinwillis7787 Bold concept! 😄 Doesn’t it add additional cost to make two IB models, one for lakes with direct cooling and one for salt water with closed coolant circuit? Or are these boats only made for lakes. Excuse my ignorance - no big lakes around here, only salt water.
Never had an issue working on my motor in my sleek enforcer with a huge engine compartment, this dude only singled out a small selection of boats, plus can’t beat the sound of my 502, different strokes for different folks!!!
I bought a clapped out maintenance starved late 90s sea ray bow rider several years ago without knowing what I was getting into. I cussed it at first until I figured out what an I/o was all about (RUclips saved the day). I ended up having to pull the engine out, replace a head gasket, rebuild the carb, replace the driveshaft hub, and pull the out drive to replace the gimbal bearing, gimbal ring, trim switch, bellows and lower shift cable. It was a lot of work but it really wasn't terrible, most issues came from all of the years of neglect. We enjoyed the boat for a few summers once it was all fixed up and eventually sold it. My take away from it is they really aren't that bad if you keep up with the required maintenance and are actually pretty cheap to work on if you are able to do it yourself. On the other hand if you have to pay someone else to do the maintenance and repairs it can get expensive quick as marine mechanics around here would much rather work on an outboard and their prices reflect.
....thanks for another awesome video.....Yes Wayne you hit the nail on the head....I have owned boats well over 50 years and have never owned an inboard/outboard for exactly the reasons you state which is the maintenance cost which is worse as they get older....the proof is in the videos all over RUclips.....
Alright , good advice This is my first stern drive, and now I`m worried that the first time I go out this spring, It`s going to Blow up and Sink !! But really, Thanks for answering, most helpful !
The Boat Guy nailed it. Here is Delilah's Dilemma: The prices on used inboard/sterndrive (I/S) boats are SOOO attractive on CL, Boat Trader and Faceboook now! And there is a REAL shortage of used recent years outboard motor versions of the same model (keeping O/B boat prices higher). I can't tell you how many attractively cheap I/S boats have almost swayed me from my conviction to buy an outboard boat for my next one this coming winter/spring. And if you add two and two together after the purchase; the I/S's are priced cheaper than their O/B counterparts because anyone who has done their homework see's the I/S boat is the BIGGEST cash hole in the water of any boat out there. The in the know crowd have gotten comparative quotes on summerization/winterization from their local marinas and found servicing outboards are cheaper. Plus, outboards got no crackin dryrotted rubber tube bellows barely keeping the lake out of the boat (to change periodically), no ujoints or gimbal bearing to change. What few realize (until they need to change a sterndrive on an I/S), an outboard is a one piece engine and drive combo, one price and new parts for both deal. The I/S is like two motors bolted together: the engine and stern drive. Both I/S parts are extremely expensive when replaced together when comparing to just replacing the whole outboard motor. Outboards sip gas at crusing speed, V8 I/S's suck it. Lastly, cruise over to the Haulover Inlet videos where the REAL monied crowd show off their latest acquistions at speed. The inboard Cigarettes with two 1,000 hp I/S motors are few and far between now; having been replaced by mass quantities of RAID (Redundant Array of Inexpensive (outboard) Drives) runabouts: four or five 450hp Mercury Racing outboards attached to their transoms. Follow the monied crowd on I/S vs OB boat selection, they know what the best deal is when they see it. Forgot the comparison. Boating (Boatingmag dot com ) did an engine comparison of the outboard engine, t he stern drive engine and the Rotax jet engine in/on the exact same hull: the Glastron 18 footer, all three versions were in current production by Glastron.) Date of article was August 28, 2017 titled "Boat Engine Comparison." when googling it. Spoiler: "Boating" chose the outboard version the clear winner. "We say, “Wise up, America!” and buy the outboard boat engine."
My last 2 boats including the one I have now are I/O's. They are fine but I agree with what you said as well. The biggest thing for me, especially since I work on my own stuff is maintenance. Bellows, u-joints and winterizing. Just a pain. Bad thing is that for a guy on a budget, outboards boats are just more desirable and more expensive. Maybe in 10-20 years, I might be able to afford one, LOL.
I have a center console Yamaha powered bay boat. I've had both negatives with outboards: expensive, less torque usually engines smaller. Parts and lifespan. Also weight/balance.
The engine location of an outboard is the BIGGEST negative. Depends on how one uses their boat... fishing, cruising, etc. On our '03 Cobalt 293 the swim platform is like the kitchen in one's home... it's where everyone gathers around, with no obstructions between the rear seating area to the swim platform to the water. Couldn't imagine two outboards in the way🤮. To each their own🤷♂️. Good video👍.
I'll probably get skewered for this but... I by far enjoyed both of my boats with jet drives more than I/O or outboard. They are reliable, very easy to work on with cheap automotive parts, able to go shallow and built with lots of power. I'm sad that end of the industry didn't continue to develop. Every drive system has tradeoffs, but for the most time on the water for the least hassle I think that's a jet boat.
Those Yamaha jet boats are very popular where I am. They make a full range of them. I think in the past there were some issues with maneuverability. Most are twin engine and I’m sure much improved
@@AW-yv9sq Yamaha has taken their game way past what I would have ever dreamed. Their boats are up to 25 ft. and some approach $90,000. I like old school v8 performance engines, but interesting stuff none the less.
6:26 Love how the stern line is obstructed by the outboard. Inboard/outboards still have their place with express cruisers. Please explain how I mount my dinghy on the swim platform of my express with outboards in the way.
strong preference here for outboards (especially two) and that is all I would have, but they are crazy expensive, expensive to maintain, and having the weight at the end of the boat has a hobbyhorse effect on handling. Outdrive boats that are on a lift are worth considering as well.
About a year ago I bought my first boat a i/o 99 sea Ray and the one huge issue is that almost nobody will even look at it here in FL. I was shocked 5 out of 6 places mobile or not said sorry . Sure I can do some simpler maintenance things and I even had some help to change the water pump but just remember that when buying a I/o
There are many cats/V bottoms running outboard engines now b/c of increasing power--up to 600hp. I've seen 60'-65' CCs running 6/600hp outboards over 70mph. For my personal boat I would go with a 36'-38' catamaran with 3/500hp outboards or 4 o/b if possible.
The issue is you can rarely find boats that are not inboards for lake styles but as someone who has a inboard I find they are cheaper easier and flipping a blower switch really is not that big of a deal ontop of that outboards have just a same chance of catching fire, so honestly it just depends on what suits you’re needs.
Yea for seasoned boaters turning the blower on is an automatic thing, but if an inboard engine catches on fire it is much more dangerous because it’s in the boat, where as an outboard is attached
Don't own a boat nor had any interest in buying a boat currently. However, I found this information very educational and glad youtube presented it to me.
I have a '95 chapparal The only problem I had is with the transom after almost 30 years. Motor, outdrive all performed well. I also own a tritoon with a Yamaha and the outboard is great, quiet powerfull, etc. both I/O and new 4 stoke outboard perform well
Agree with what you said. I have a 2002 Cobalt 5.7 Volvo. Have only two issues. Replace fuel pump twice. Now going thru the agony of replacing the steering actuator. As i do this replacement i think want a outboard. LOL. One thing not mentioned. As my boat is 21 years old. No structure issues. Keep a boat with outboards this long and might be looking at transom rebuild/replacement. Outboards are temperamental. I/O might be less expensive if need to replace vs outboard. I am not sure. Should i need to. I do know what a new replacement engine for my Cobalt cost. It is significantly less.
We have had an I/O since the 80s sure they have their problems but better handling and quieter and more torque than some outboard boats I’ve seen and as for the blower I just leave it on the whole time that the motor is running also we keep our boat on the trailer and only advantage I see in my use is being able to get into shallower water
You have some valid points . I have not been actively boating for a number of years , so you can correct any assumptions I am making . Back in the 70s and 80s my friends and I did a lot of in shore boating and towed in a number of outboard powered craft . Even back then the outboards were fairly reliable , but on big water when they did have a problem you really could not work on it . Here in the Pacific Northwest we preferred a fresh water cooled inboard for those damp chilly days . Cabin heat and defrosters were great . All my fishing buddies and I used transom savers , but we saw a number of boats not using them . The bouncing weight of a big outboard is hard on the transom . As the governments kill gas engine cars and truck and manufacturers quit making them , they will disappear from boating shortly after . Keep in mind , if they have their way , you will not be able to buy a gas engine outboard . Welcome to the wonderful world of giant batteries and electric motors submerged in salt water with high amp and voltage . Looks like smaller sail boats and oars will become popular again .
The Outboard motor lower units are submerged too and also have parts that will go bad as a result. Years ago it was outboards, then it was I/O, now back to Outboards. The pendulum will swing back the other way again, it's always a continuous cycle. I'm not opposed to outboards on smaller boats but on large cruisers, I think it cheapens the design and takes away from the class and appeal of these boats. I think once the electric bug hits boating, outboards will disappear as the electric motors will either be inboard or back to some type of hybrid configuration. Just some food for thought. I wouldn't count Inboards or I/O out just yet!
I bought a 2006 Bayliner with a mercuiser 5.0 duoprop. I kept it in salt water 7 months and put it in a barn for 5 months. Did it for 14 years. I never winterized it. I did start it up for 5 seconds to push 😢salt water out and shut it off. The boat was underpowered but never had an issue with engine or outdrive . 500 hours when I sold it. Change oil regularly.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Impeller once and serpentine belt. Nothing else. I scraped oyster and barnacles off the stern drive at the end of the season. I think I changed lower steer drive oil twice.
Hello I just gave my nephew the Four Winns 180 with a 4.3L engine for free since I haven't used it in 4 years and it needed bellows repairs and maybe other stuff, since he's 22 years old and would love to play with it. I understand the trouble with climbing into the engine compartment to check things out. I want you to tell me that outboards are easier to change oil and winterize. I'm retired and can't afford to check boats out anymore. The next boat is it come hell or high water. Gil in Massachusetts
Of the 12 boats (so far) I have owned, 3 were I/O and 9 were OB. The biggest problem with I/O's is that most people don't maintain them and can't use them in winter, unless it has a closed cooling system. My area is full of boats for sale cheap that have a cracked block because the engine wasn't drained, and power went out in a freeze. An I/O also is not as durable as an OB in a saltwater environment, unless a closed system again, and doesn't perform in shallow water. While I/O's do have certain advantages the negative issues are enough for me to stay with an OB.
When Mercury stepped up to 400horse outboards and then 450horse and now a 600hp V12 or V16 it changed the whole boating world. But if you still want to go ultra high end top speeds you need a big V8 with lots of horsepower and Torque. The big motors actually run pretty dependable these days. if you take care of them the right way. I have twin Mercruiser 1100horse twin turbos in my current rig and it accelerates and pulls to top end extremely fast. Has a cruising speed of about 120mph if you like.. I think it's great. I'm sure some day the outboard will take over all that too. But you gotta love that big V8 rumble while it's here. So cool.
just got my first i/o after having a outboard for years and boy do i regret it, bellows ended up with a small leak into the boat, water somehow worked its way up the thru hull exhaust pipes got water into 2 of the cylinders.... making the switch back ASAP.. loved the big block power but not worth this headache
You have done a very good job of making your case. If I was to buy new, I would definitely consider the Outboard. Also, I did a lot of water skiing in the '70s behind my dad's boat. You don't need those big ski towers. A simple two point harness attached to each side of the transom with the ski rope attached to a pulley rode the harness. It went around the outboard motor.
I/O's came along and were a better alternative to outboards back in the day. They used to be more fuel efficient than an outboard, and more reliable. I'm talking 1970's when I grew up. Our family boat was a new Glasspar with a Mercruiser iron Duke in it. My Dad used to lecture me "don't ever own an I/O"! Well an old Volvo Penta and a 470 Mercruiser later I learned valuable lessons!
For me the big issue is winterization. I live in the northern part of Idaho and want to boat into the winter to fish. OB’s are much easier to maintain. The I/O require much more effort to winterize (though they just plain look better) and in the event there is a snap freezing spell in Sept/Oct (happened 2 years ago) and I was away on business, I don’t want to come back to a huge expensive headache. I also don’t want to winterize my boat too early and miss out on prime autumn boating either. OB for me because if this.
Boats over 30 ft either have multiple giant outboards hanging off the back or have actual inboard engines - which aren't the same as the I/O (Sterndrive) setups. It seems the I/O is really only used for 18-30 ft boats.
Here’s some more positives of stern drives: -Better if the boat needs to be compact -Better sea keeping compared to outboards due to being submerged deeper - More balanced centre of gravity due to lower and more forward engine position
We used to have a new Fisher 26' ib/ob pontoon and at first we liked it. It's a little different that with a boat with a hull since the pontoon is higher though. It was a 4 cylinder Mercruiser which I believe was a GM engine. But anyway we sold that boat after 2 seasons because it drank more fuel than any other boat that we'd ever had. I believe it was about 150 HP and I always was easy on it, never beat on my boats. But now we have a 24' Tri-toon with a new 2022 Mercury 150 FourStroke. It had a 130 2 stroke so we got the new Mercury and set up Vessel View to watch all of the systems. This thing is so fuel efficient. It's better than we could have even imagined. It is getting over double the efficiency of the 2 stroke 130. I absolutely love this setup. It will run the big girl at around 34 with just me and no gear on the boat but we usually only cruise at 18-20 mph. It has a 36 gallon tank and that lasts much much longer than it used to. I prefer outboards too.
I have an inboard. I have had an I/O and and outboard. I dont like the way outboards handle. The only advantage to an I/O for me is steering in reverse which I dont do anyway.
Outboards also have the advantage of far fewer emissions components compared with inboard engines. When the epa changes the rules and makes outboards have the same emissions as an inboard I think you will see a change
I see I lot of these boats on Facebook marketplace lately we bought a fiberglass 76 starcraft with stern drive omc inboard/outboard ford 302 I like it at first cause it had a lot power for 800 bucks but the more I looked at it when we had it and I noticed alot disadvantages like one time we took out lake few times its pretty hard to park and push it off the beach or land it cause it really heavy boat plus the back end where inboard /outboard drive came out it was perty hard to move up and down I wondered what would happen if we hit a log or rock i know it was supposed flipped up when you hit something on lower unit i thought it might break off and boat would start sinking plus I noticed the. Rubber boot was gonna have to be replaced at some point it started to dry up crack we sold that boat for almost 16 hundred dollars cause we put alot work and parts in that inboard motor boat we used the money to get our 90 hp johnson outboard motor fixed up that boat had more use for itwe like it more cause it was lighter weight and could carry more weight on it plus it wasn't that hard to lift push out from the beach or land after we parked it nice video BTW
Here in SWFL we are on the water every weekend with a bunch of friends that already switched to OB boats. They spend all day trying to convince me to switch over, hanging out at the back of my huge unobstructed swim platform. Go figure.
![Outboard vs Sterndrive [ Inboard Outboard vs outboard ] Which is Best? why? Inboard vs outboard](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SMcsnB8S5Ng/mqdefault.jpg)
![Outboard vs Sterndrive [ Inboard Outboard vs outboard ] Which is Best? why? Inboard vs outboard](/img/tr.png)
Let me know your thoughts on whether you would buy a new inboard outboard boat! If you are shopping for a budget used boat or just a new small outboard engine, I have a whole playlist of videos dedicated to shopping for boats! ruclips.net/p/PLP_T5TIhc847wp1WFixPeIhB7PKZwuYhX
Totally agree. Been a marine tech for 20+ years and sterndrives are a pain in the ass. Outboards are the only way to go.
@@marcharris4176 yes
Wayne, I’m shopping for a sea-ray with 2 motors. The I/ o seems to be most common. How do you figure out the risers , baffle tubes, etc are of need to be replaced. I don’t trust surveyors from all my years of buying boats. These surveyors usually are not mechanics.
@@edwardwerthner7717 That gets tricky! Some people say replace them in salt water areas every few years and others just look for rust/cracks. I haven't pulled mine yet and I'm NOT looking forward to that project - I anticipate broken studs and spending even MORE time in awkward positions to do the tasks. Sea Ray, like other brands have only recently started offering outboard versions of their boats.
I haven't seen one comment about the huge advantage of the I/O dual-prop drive that comes pretty much standard on almost all Volvo-Penta and Mercruiser V-8 engines, and a whole bunch of relatively high horsepower V-6 engines. Outboard motors with the same HP as an I/O dual-prop counter part do not beat them on the hole-shot or on plane, are not more quiet, & don't track nearly as well especially in reverse!
I still prefer an I/0. They look cleaner and not having to worry about my kids and friends messing with the prop are all perks. Most of the problems encountered with I/Os comes from not maintaining them properly and not inspecting the bellows every year for replacement.
They do look cleaner
Kids/neighbors are MUCH more likely to be introduced to the prop. Out of sight/Out of mind.....femoral chopped!
I'm an I/O guy, and I've found many more advantages over the years:
1) Not many folks are trying to squeeze their boat into their garage, but with me, I have 2 to 3 feet more room with an I/O over an OB with the same overall length boat. Wouldn't fit the same boat that has OB(s).
2) Tax, title, and fee's: many states require a separate title and sometimes registration for each OB motor, almost as if each one is a separate boat itself! And in my state, there is an uncapped excise tax for a new OB motor. Not so for a replacement I/O motor, albeit a much lesser sales tax.
3) There are more Alpha drives in existence than any one OB model. And Bravo drives are not far behind. Parts will never be scarce, unlike many OB's that have many variations. Like the V8's that those drives compliment, availability of parts is their superpower. Now the skills and/or patience to install those parts, I yield that those could be ever so decreasing.
4) The I/O engine itself lasts longer than even a power head of a 4 stroke OB with matching HP. Higher torque wins the long game of slugging a boat out of the water onto plane 100's of times.
5) I disagree with easier re-powering with an OB. With an I/O, you don't have to replace the outdrive and the engine at the same time. If you're savy, you can plan a staggered replacement of either and not break the bank with 300+ HP. Not so great that larger OB's are ~$100/HP. So 300 HP OB ~ $30,000, not including installation. I/O will never be this much for that amount of power.
6) One more: I/O's can continue to benefit from propeller innovations, designs, and commodization from the booming Outboard market domination. I remember back in the 90's when a new typical stainless steel prop intended for I/O use could be up to $2500, THEN, in 90's dollars. Thanks in large part to larger outboards driving up volumes and economies of scale in the coming decades, props for OB's and I/O are much more affordable, especially commodity brands that are just as good as the OEM's. And they are better, more efficient, and provide more thrust. And I'm sure the innovations will keep coming for OB/Outdrive props in the years to come. Heck, they might even develop an innovative prop for Electric OB's for which an I/O could still benefit.
Too many good times with my family on our inboard/outboard. The extended swim platform and ability to hang out at the stern are just too appealing. Of course, I’ve got a Cobalt and can only speak of the Cobalt reliability, but I’ve never had an issue with bellows, engine fires, etc. Of course, I keep up with the maintenance. I’m also no obsessed with speed, so power is not a priority.
Big speed is still with io. Look at Fountain, Baja, cigarette!!
I've got a 2002 Crownline 202 5.7efi Volvo I/O and I love it. I honestly cant picture an outboard in my near future. I grew up on outboard boats and I vastly prefer the I/O for 'family' boating. I trailer it everywhere and I'm quite familiar with old GM V8's so I honestly enjoy maintaining it.
Agree with everything he said, but there is one additional thing to consider: Handling characteristics. Outboard engined boats handle differently because the weight is farther back and the prop hinges a bit differently. This gives outboard boats more of a feel of the engine pushing the rear end of the boat from side to side to steer. Whereas an inboard/outboard feels more intuitive and integrated. It's more of a sporty steering feel in my opinion. I happen to like the feel. That said, I think outboard is still the way to go. Just wanted to mention handling characteristics because they are quite important to some of us.
outbosrds are also higher from.the center of gravity
@@7markshark a small air cooled four cycle outboard is light and reliable. You can pour the gas back and keep it below deck. It's nice for a dinghy.
for a DIY, the inboard engine have many advantages, the first one is they are based on automotive counterparts so many parts can be way cheaper if you can choose correctly.
the inboard engine offers way more possibilities to customize, just say indirect cooling that is a major asset in salt water
the inbard engine can be an asset in the weight distribution of a boat, with a jack shaft, it can be located in the center of the boat leading to better stability in heavy sea.
you can add many features as A/C, freezer, cabin heater, heavy electrical system, hydraulics and much more , all driven by the engine.
an outboard motor is as it is and can not truly be customized but it have its advantages for a small boat as you described
very good video.
I agree, a aluminum LS Corvette engine with a few mods or even a cast iron LS with all the conversion parts from Hardin Marine would be hard to beat horsepower and money.
I have always went I/O out boards are ok for a Starter Boat But for the Long Haul a I/O is the way to Go..
car engine parts on a marine engine not the best idea ! Most of the marine parts are made with anti-spark in mind. Also automotive part will not last in the marine environment
@@willashley6366 If you have ever rebuilt an I/O or inboard angine based on an automotive engine, you should have compared the part numbers on blocks, heads, pistons, rods and crankshafts, these numbers are the same that the one of the auto equivalent, on the engine by itself, the only differences are the camshafts ( spec quite similar to a RV cam ) , the freeze plugs that are brass, the enhaust manifolds that are water cooled and of course, the alternator, starter and distributor that are spark proof. The fuel pump have its atmospheric vent redirected to the carburetor in the case where a punctured diaphragm leaks raw fuel.
There is many myths that are well maintained by the industry.
I have had both and the big issue with outboards is the price and cost to repair are much higher also outboards put all the weight on the back of the transom which causes stress cracks. The other plus for an I/O is the weight is more balanced and lower center of gravity and no way are outboards quieter. I/O's aren't going anywhere.
outboards are quieter to the people you pas by i think. But that also depends on the exhaust system on the i/o. Outboards with their underwater exhaust tend to be pretty quiet when they pass where as boats with a i/o and a seperate exhaust above water level can be pretty loud. But for the noise in the boat, with an I/O its just about insulating the engine compartment properly and using the proper engine mounts. You could probably get 4" worth of insulation around your engine in an i/o setup if you really want to go for the quiet thing. WIth an outboard they cant because that would make the thing HUGE and ugly.
@@gabbermaikel I don't know, I know people with brand new 200 and 250 hp outboards and they are quite, but not as much as an underwater exhaust I/O.
Not just stress cracks on transom but also many boats suffer a poor ride due to poor (too far astern) center of gravity.
I feel like a lot of these situations could be prevented from actually taking care of your boat inboard outboard’s are amazing I like outboards because they’re nice and reliable and easy to work on but it’s pretty easy to check your oil all I have to do is lift up a big seat and check the dipstick!
My boat lives on a lift over the canal in the back of the house, there's no working or checking anything on an outboard in that scenario.
Mercruisers being a marinized car engine are more fuel efficient than outboards.
@@Jarek13 your lift does not have walk boards? my lift has walk boards on both sides they stick out far enough that I can lay a 2x12 across them and have great access to back of the boat
@@imchris5000 previous owner of my boat had that setup, the boat bears the scars of that lift setup. Still useful for many other tasks, I don't discount it. I just had the dock built deeper, same effect. Used your method to work on my drives. Not the point though, rather hear a solid reason why switch.
I have a feeling I/O's will be around for a long while, the superior looks and swim platform area will out weigh the disadvantages, at least on fresh water. I picture I/O surviving on fresh water boats and outboards taking over on salt water (at least for smaller boats, bigger will retain straight inboards), best thing is getting the entire system high and dry for salt.
Actually fresh water cooled IOs are perfect for salt water. I have 2 x 8.2 Mercs with the SeaCore package and loving it. Like you said, the swimming platform look and great performance. Outboards feel different (worse) to me. I will stick to IOs (or PODs!!!)
A full swim platform is a plus, but now the looks aren’t really superior
I thought I would never have anything other than an outboard. I was an outboard snob. I bought a new to me i/o in March. I love it. Nothing like the growl of a V8 chevy 305 in my boat. Edit, and maintenance is very easy. Just depends on what size area the motor is in. I've had zero issues with having enough room for checking oil and changing impeller...the one thing that is definitely a downside to me is the outdrive not being able to lift up out of the water. That's pretty much it, though.
... I guess even big outboards can be taken off and sent to mechanic, having IO means that is far more complicated. I'm sailer and a 10hp diesel down there would be nice and quiet, but my 8hp 2 cyclinder tohatsu is so simple I can fix it...
Outboards self drain, eliminating freeze risks in the spring and fall (big chance of cracked inboard engine blocks in the north).
@@highwatercircutrider I guess living in Florida has some advantages.
@@nickbear1816 we do not generally have to flush our engines inboard or outboard (no salt water here). We just trailer the boat home and maybe pump some grease in the trailer’s ‘bearing buddys’.
I feel like there is also a show off factor for outboards. Nothing like having four 300 HP motors hanging off the back of your boat to get attention.
They have become a status symbol!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy The opposite of that is having six outboards hanging off of a 50' center console. Looks stupid...
LOL - Tampa Bay Bucs QB Tom Brady's boat has 5 engines hanging off the stern.
It's a gimck real boats use diesel
I am a charter boat company owner since 1976.
Every outboard that has been on my boats has cost me massive down time and not less than $25.000 in repairs.
3 years ago, my 29-foot jet boat got a rebuild then the total rotten 225 Mercury was dumped then a 1969 Chevrolet 402 Big block of 500 hp went in the jet boat.
Now never does the 402 big block fail to run and it puts out massive power at only 1/4 throttle!
At 1/2 Throttle with 8 people on board that jet boat is smoking fast!!!
I have run right along the interstate Highway 84 along the Columbia River with 8 clients on board then kept up with the Highway traffic.
I have to admit I am to chicken to try more than half throttle.
My clients now say the ride in the jet boat is as much fun as catching the salmon !
I agree with some of your points but not all. I/O are a pain to service due to poor access but basic stuff like oil change and winterizing are easy. The marine growth Is not a fair point because you should have antifouling on the lower unit along with the rest of the hull if your storing on the water. And a bellows failure will not sink a boat fast, it will leak but it's not a straight shot into to bilge, water must leak thru the bearing which is packed full of grease or defeat the 2 shaft o-rings. I biggest cons against outboard imo is you can't pull a tube or skier without a tower and your prop is highly exposed to swimmers which is a nonstarter with kids.
I am a boat mechanic/biz owner contractor for a major marina in FL and have been most of my 51 years on earth. I know I/O's , outboards, inboards, airboats, rc boats lol, sailboats etc. Love the vid and I cant disagree with any of it with the exception of not talking about how a busted manifold can blow the engine quickly and the pure fact that many of us marine techs wont work on them unless they are spotless new. I turn down any I/O older than 5 years unless its spotless and I might still turn it down depending on the impression i get from the customer on if i think he is willing to throw the money at it required to do the job correctly. I am an inch away from not working on them at all anymore. I like my yamaha ob and suzuki customers. I show up do maint every year make big money for every one i do. And my customer is always smiling. With an I/O in our salt water it is part after part after problem after problem. Went through them all over the years and now my boat is powered by a 1975 cadillac 500ci punched .30 over. 575 lbs of torque at 3000rpm.. AIRBOAT,, But if i had to stop airboating personaly I would get a Yamaha ob and it would last the rest ofmy life easy with only oilchanges anodes and waterpump services..
Sea Ray 270 I/O can’t beat the flip down swim platform seating. I/O all day every day.
What about the sea ray sdx 270 outboard that has the same exact thing?
@@lukesmith9144 the swim platform is way better on the I/O. without a doubt. The flip down swim platform goes across the entire back of the swim platform. I’m not familiar with what flips down on the outboard version, but the outboard itself occupies a significant notch in the swim platform.
Wayne, years ago I was Director of Advertising at Thunderbird/Formula. And I had the honor of meeting and sitting to talk with Dick Cole, the inventor of the cathedral hull. Dick explained to me that Inboard/Outboard was a terrible drive system. So, I would like to add one huge disadvantage to your list...directly from Dick Cole. Dick explained why straight inboard is the most reliable, outboards are #2, and I/O is by far, #3. It is because an I/O has to take the power from the engine, hundreds of foot pounds of torque, and make 2 full 90 degree turns to get that power onto the prop. That is insane from an engineering standpoint. Worse, the top of an I/O not only has to turn it 90 degrees, but also needs to be able to steer (!). The I/O in effect tears itself apart over time (as any I/O owner will attest). They are thus high maintenance and subject to a multitude of failing parts. Jon Levy
Jon, I would agree that the design associated with outdrive systems is fairly complex and therefore makes the systems more prone to maintenance issues than other configurations. However, I would not characterize the associated engineering as "insane". Its actually very traditional and mature engineering, utilizing hypoid gearsets and U joint assemblies just as have been used successfully and reliably in automotive applications for over a hundred years. Those systems do not tear themselves apart any more than their automotive counterparts do. The fact that there are two changes of direction simply makes it less efficient than you'd have with only one or no changes in direction. Water intrusion from seal failure, and marine growth are the killers of outdrives. Remove that risk and you'll rarely have an issue with a well maintained outdrive. Id never own an outdrive boat that didnt come out of the water after each use. Thats the Achilles heal of I/O systems. All of this having been said, outboards have become serious competitors in what was previously the I/O market. The traditional shortcoming of outboards have all but been eliminated.
@@dekseayou missed his point of a straight shaft stern stern drive boat being the most reliable because of the removal of the parts you mentioned
@@noturfather1106 I got his point. I just disagree that the reason an I/O is less reliable is because of 2 changes of direction of power.
if i were in the market i would still get an I/O.. even today... even with all the downsides. I just prefer the way they look and sound (that deep v8 idling sound is just amazing). i would also consider a jet boat as those systems have improved a lot over the years and still give you that clean look. selection is currently very small on jet boats but im sure that will change
I have a Friend who just bought a Yamaha Boat 22 ft with 2 yamaha 125 hp In board engines with jet I would not have that thing.. at 20 MPH its Cranking 6K RPMs Red Lines at 8K so its Top speed isn't that Great even though it is a 4 stroke engines It sounds like a Bee Hive going down the Lake. so Many Rpms I don't care for Jets on anything but a ski.. his boat has no control slow and it aint Fast and it cost him like 75K Geeeez Crazy Nice But about worthless...
I want a jet boat on paper it would be amazing for my area of the gulf since most of it less than 10ft deep but everyone I know that has one has problems with the sea weed
you dont want no Jet Boat Trust me unless its a Old one with a berkely Pump and a Big Block These yamaha and seadoo Boats are not the same beast their little brother the jet ski are...
My boat is an inboard diesel-powered sterndrive. The boat has no swim platform, allowing the outdrive to be tilted up out of the water. The engine cooling is through a seawater heat exchange, no saltwater in the engine block, unlike an outboard. The seawater pump and impeller are accessible from inside the boat like all other serviceable parts, including on demand switchable fuel filters in case of a blocked filter. Replacing an outboard engine is easier, making them a throw-away item. Don't write sterndrives off so quickly. There are fore and against both depending on boat type, size and use. Understanding each system helps with a suitable choice for your requirements. Happy boating
The primary problem with I/O and outboards is where they are mounted (stern heavy) Okay for small boats, but traditional inboards with the engines mounted close to amidships seem to be the best solution for a larger boat . My boat has 2 very heavy engines mounted just aft of amidships and definitely keeps the sea better than similar boats with their engines mounted at the stern. Plus inboards don't have the complexity of the I/O or V-drive options.
But for God's sake run the blower before you start any inboard and when you are in a no wake zone.
My dad's boat is a 2000 raider Osprey 21ft with a mercury 200hp 2 stroke motor and that boat goes 52 mph trimmed up
I had a uesd 25ft. Sea Ray Sundancer I buy used it was 10 years old never had any issues with it I love my inboard outboard engine. My 2nd boat was 10 years old Formula 27ft. with twins 8 inboard outboard loved it. Everyone I know that had inboard outboard engine's didn't have all these issues that you're talking about and I didn't either, I would take an inboard outboard boat over and outdrive any day and I buy my boats used they're too expensive new so to each is own. Here in Michigan you mostly see inboard outboard boats. Love your channel I noticed that your not putting them out like you used to God bless be safe ciao for now.
Thanks for sharing! I was wondering - do you regularly have the outdrive removed to change out the bellows? If so, how often? Many people say it should be done every 2-3 years. Also the winterizing is a challenge on ones with fresh water cooling system (that's what mine has) - but probably not an issue on the ones with a closed(??) cooling system. Are you running closed cooling systems up there?
@@WayneTheBoatGuy My Mercruiser 3.0 has drain tubes you just pull out and put down in the bilge to drain out. They had that 20 years ago. Per the manual that's all that's needed, though I know some people fill the system with antifreeze. Bellows can last 5+ years if you store your boat out of the water. I wouldn't want to keep an I/O in the water all the time.
@@plmn93 The 5.0 and 5.7 are (or were) a little more complicated but Mercruiser seems to do a better job for the the DIY person!
I live on a lake system and have seen the monster outboards that are now on these boats. Can’t tell you how many people don’t shut off their motor when people are going in to ski getting out. Huge prop just waiting for disaster. Shut all motors off when people are around the rear. Neutral doesn’t cut it.
Most of the statements made in this video are true, but I would like to point out a few things.
For some reason this video seems to only compare outboards to gasoline inboard outboards/sterndrives. In this comparison, outboards are superior. If you would compare outboards to diesel sterndrives though, the situation will be a lot more equal. Currently, sterndrives are the only way to get diesel power in smaller planing craft without the use of propeller tunnels or pockets, which are almost always a major design compromise. And nothing else in the current market delivers such high efficiency as a diesel sterndrive. The use of diesel fuel also eliminates the need for blowers, and significantly reduces the fire risk. Engine access is one thing that I think this video is wrong about. Even though it might be a problem for smaller daycruisers, in larger boats, accessibility is almost always very good, and I would argue that working inside the boat is most of the time a lot more comfortable than hanging above the water in the back of the boat. And because the engine is low in the hull and forward of the transom, versus being higher up and behind the transom, both the longitudinal and vertical center of gravity of sterndrive boats will be at better position compared to outboard boats. This generally makes sterndrive boats more stable and make for a more balanced ride.
A really informative video with a lot of good food for thought. Two additions to the list. One thing to consider if storing your boat inside a garage or indoor storage space is the additional length with the outboard fitted boat versus an I/O. If your space is tight, that extra length can be a real concern. On the pro outboard side, the engine being at the back of the boat leaves more interior room for seating and storage.
Didn't read all comments, someone may have mentioned this. When it comes time to repower your boat. Outboard is much easier and gives you a wide range of options to choose from.
For me it depends on what the boat is for. If it's for fishing or work outboard every time, If it's for enjoyment/play I would go inbord due to the cleaner look and usable stern.
...one thing I didn't see mentioned is the shallow water capabilities of the outboards in conjunction with a jack plate..no i/o can compete with the outboard performance in that respect giving the outboard a huge advantage in versatility...
Not so quick with the shallow water. I had an 18 foot flat bottom with a 25 Merc jet and it would run in 12 inches of water but I was at the Sportsman show looking at an inboard jet with the intake up inside a tunnel hull. I believe it was a SJX. It will draft at 6 inches and run in 3 inches on plane with moderate load and a 310 hp inboard.No outboard jet can do that.
@@anthonyspadafora1384 Spot on! Jets are much more efficient on inboard power as well.
I can run my boat in 2 feet of water just raise up the prop and idle along no Problem
@@FradyKatt lol 2 feet...
@@FradyKatt You aren't even in the ballpark!!! I ran 48 foot, three big blocks on Hamilton Jets at thirty knots with forty passengers in less than eight inches on a regular basis. Didn't see any outboards on those runs!!! They have there place although shallow running is not one of them.
You nailed it! I really can’t think of any reason why I would want another I/O even doing my own maintenance. I always tell people outboards are like lawnmowers. They just keep running and running. If you do the proper maintenance, which is a lot less than an I/O you are in for a great experience. I just upgraded to my next boat with a 2021 OB. I could’ve saved a lot of cash if I bought the same model in an I/O, but I will surely save in the long run! Great video and thanks!
one of the big issues is servicing an outboard versus servicing an I/O when you are at sea. If something malfunctions in the powerhead of an outboard, you are hanging yourself out over the water making repairs to the engine. You are at risk of any time of dropping a tool or a critical part, and having that item disappear into the abyss. With an inboard, if you drop the same item, it's going into the bilge of the boat. While it may be annoying attempting to retireve it, you can at least retrieve it! When it comes to malfunctions at the marina, For smaller boats, it's not hard to yank the boat out of the water and service it on land, where the risk of droppage is minimized, but as the boat gets bigger, so does the challenge and expense of haul-out, and launching. If you have a big boat with a pair of 300 hp outboards, versus the same sized boat with a pair of inboards, servicing the inboards isn't going to involve an expensive pull-out merely to access the powerhead, and minimize dropping parts
All good points - but many 'close to shore' weekend recreational boaters aren't doing their own breakdown repairs on the water, they just call tow boat to get them home.
gonna start scuba diving for 10mm sockets now
Outboards balance weird, stress the transom, don't have nearly as good parts availability or interchangeability compared to inboards, aren't nearly as customizable etc and are more complex. It's the other way around IMO, if you can get over the extra maintenance items for a sterndrive.
If you have a Yamaha or mercury outboards, parts should never be a problem
I had a $500k sports cruiser with an in board out board. I always used the blower fans. First thing I did when I got in board was turn the blowers on and let them run for 10 minutes while did other things. Very very important
Fuel. Diesel is almost always available at the marina, petrol often isn't (UK at least). I hated my sterndrive aka I/O and now have a shaft-driven diesel. But it's still noisy compared to the same size boat with an outboard. On the plus side, my fuel costs a fraction of what theirs does!
a ton of those IO boats have cracked blocks due to not being winterized. all it takes is forgetting it one time or a freak low temp out of season. come to think of it if you want to take a outboard boat out on a nice day in the winter or early spring you can without having the hassel of winterization
I've owned two boats with a inboard motor The first one had several issues with the lower unit on the inboard and the exhaust manifold failure which costed me more than what I paid for the boat and the second one. Very nice. Low hours. First time I took it out. Didn't realize the bellows for the shifter cable was leaking. Let it sit at the marina while we were shopping for several hours came back. Engine compartment was completely flooded about sank. After that bought a boat with an outboard old two-stroke did me good but decided to repower to a four-stroke never been happier with it
Plus, Otters and Beavers love chewing on the rubber bellows etc.
I had an inboard)outboard for a good twenty years. I raised all my kiddos and their friends. We were out two and three times a week during the summer. She was a good girl. We had batteries changed and impellers once a year. No problem! I loved that puddle jumper! ❤
Corrosion is a big factor to consider. An outboard motor is being cooled with raw water. But an inboard engine can be cooled in a closed system.
An outboard could also use a closed system, but I don't know of any using it. My assumption is because it's not worth the penalties of a closed system since they won't last long enough for corrosion to be what kills them.
As a long time boater, Having Inboards, I/Os, and Now OB's, here's my take.
We bought a single 240 Vantage BW, with a 400HP OB, BW does NOT offer any option I'm aware of other than a OB, as most sub 40 footers are this class, many with multiple OBs.
Whats my preference, Twin IB's wins hands down, but most of those boats won't trailer behind my F350, won't fit in my NH owned slip 31'1" (Dont' Ask), or the Lift we have in NC.
Which leads me to the following, a IO is not the best choice for salt/brackish water as we have in NC, the NH slip is freshwater so it's a non issue but owning 2 boats is way more aggravation than I want.
So, IO vs OB, it's a personal call and how your intended use your boat, BW only offers OB's for a reason as most others do in the fishing boat category, or if one can afford or store the Deep Sea fishing battle cruiser an IB is your likely choice.
I personally won't diss on OB's or IO's, some things I like about both and some things I don't, if you strictly freshwater boat an IO will serve you well, but, as others have pointed out a BIG OB or even better a multitude of them is just way to cool 😁...... vroooooooom🤑
Great points. Outboards have so many advantages. I went with a Yamaha jet boat because I have young kids who waterski, but eventually I want to get back to an outboard.
Draft is a big negative. Close mounted twins don't work like twin screw inboards. 4 stroke out boards are increasingly popular and can match horsepower in multiples. For those advocating using automotive parts in marine applications - explosion-proof is Not required in automotive but is required in bilge applications. Starters, alternators and even mechanical fuel pumps are labeled Marine for a reason. Marinized engines without heat exchangers corrode from within. Oil pans rot and bad things happen over time, especially in salt water.
Take a look at performance reviews.
You will find that many boats that were originally designed for stern drive have worse performance and gas mileage when changed to outboards of similar hp.
Also outboards are less responsive when docking, and joystick piloting is less precise, which is a big priority for “harbor hoppers” like myself.
Yes outboards have come a long ways, and have some big advantages, but for some boats and some boaters stern drives still work better.
I think this fad of slapping outboards on absolutely everything weather it’s actually better or not is going to fade away.
I bought a 1996 Maxum 22ft runabout with a 5.7 merc I/0.. I still own it to this day, and have never replaced the bellows, its never leaked a drop, It has approx 2700hrs, and has only had spark plugs once, alternator, and water pump changed.. Oil changed once per year.. Its never sat in the water, but I also live in Indiana, so it sits out in the cold and changing temps under a tin roof shed next to my camper.. It has been an amazing engine and stern drive.. Maybe they don't make them like they used to, or people just don't take care of their shit like I do..
I work on both.
The outboard is a great engine for a fishing boat or a pontoon.
However these things have been placed in areas they don't belong and now pushing power that is rather silly for what it is.
I have seen these on cabin cruisers and deck boats that are well over the weight capacity. Those boats really need a inboard.
The outboards sit right on the back of the swim platform and look terrible.
Why would you spend hundreds of thousands to millions and get something that ugly?
The most powerful one I seen is the mercury V12 600hp.
Well that package weights 1,260 pounds.
Then you add in three or four, then you end up having 3,780 to 5,040 pounds hanging off the back. You will need a very strong transom for that.
The next issue is cost to maintain/fix.
These things are not cheap to begin with.
The package I listed above could buy you a house.
Four V12's is $332,780.00
The parts is usually subjected to goong through the manufacturer and that could be thousands for just a oil and impeller change.
Personally I would stick with a BBC or the LS base they put in boats now.
You can build those for power on a very tight budget.
Even a diesel is cheaper.
So I'll give this trend a few more years, maybe a decade.
Then we will see these going for cheap and the inboard being the standard again.
A outboard on a fishing boat is a good deal, but it doesn't match a I/O for a pleasure boat and sure dosen't match a inboard for a yacht.
Your points are all nice, but you don’t really get into which is better to pull a water skier or tuber. You touched on the point that you need a higher rope attachment point for the outboard engine but which drive system pulls the skier out of the water faster. Which is more efficient for water skiing. Which provides a bigger wake for for skiers to jump. Neither drive system will provide a wake as big as a wake boat but that is a different monster all together.
My guess is that an IO is better for water skiing and tubing. But I am not sure. If you are buying a boat to just drive around and not participate in water sports, then IO might be better.
People who regularly pull (tubes/skis etc) dislike having to deal with an outboard, because it can obstruct the view of a spotter.
As a kid my grandpa had a boat with an outboard and he was always drilling into me why his outboard was better for largely the reasons you mentioned. I secretly always thought the sterndrives were cooler. That boat was so friggin loud and the drive was in the way for skiing.
As a grown man I am now shopping for my first boat and I still feel the same-the I/O offers such a better experience. Even though we are coastal we will have this thing on a freshwater lake most of the time. My friend on the lake has a 1997 SeaRay bought new and she has never had issues with the bellows or heard of I/O boats sinking. If that was somehow common everyone would know about it. Kind of like terrifying people about the ethanol non-issue.
If you are looking for a small boat (say 18-25 ft) that back swim platform and seating area just can’t be beat-if you have a big boat with tons of other cabin areas for people to lounge then I think an outboard would be more attractive. And no--the outboards with "sleek covers" are STILL ugly. You aren't really a style guy Wayne, so apologies if I'm not gonna take ur advice on what looks good.
Yamaha jet boats wooed me with their cheap prices and high features but not everyone works on those and they had their own host of issues. Sorry, but can’t wait to get my new sterndrive! And because manufacturers now offer options it does not logically follow that "that is the way things are going." Definitely not on their way out as new I/O boats are sold every day…
Nah, outboards aren’t ugly, they’re noticeable but do look good most of the time, and a lot of people like to show off the horsepower they have
@@Blue_Doge yeah, small dudes trying to project non-existent BDE-written from the swim platform of my sterndrive on a Tuesday sunset cruise ;)
Bought a i/o a few years ago. To me it was a no brainer, has a 4.3 GM based engine I am very familiar with, plenty of mercruiser parts/service available in my area. The boat was a northern boat so put up for alot of the year. As a plus the boat has a green stripe my favorite color.
id never get an outboard, except for my dinghy. id really like a straight shaft out the bottom instead of an outboard or a leg
I love my MerCruiser 350 Magnum I/O with through-hull exhaust... When I start it up, heads turn..lol
Oil changes are pain but other than that, no issues......
And for what I paid for my boat years ago, which I fell instantly in love with the moment I saw and heard it.... I couldn't even buy an outboard engine for that price..
The new outboards today are great, but they are very expensive to buy and fix when they break....
It's the current fad , but fads come and go..
Interesting video. I've owned both types, and would have to agree with the points but could add a couple more. Problem with larger outboards on 26'+ boats is that if they do need any repairs, and you are in a smaller or remote area, they are put together like a complex mechanical watch. Special tools, and training is required to work on them wheras most I/O engines are basically automotive and much lower complexity. Also, I currently have a deep-vee boat with a 24 degree deadrise, and I like having the weight of my 454 big block Mercruiser magnum sitting low down in the bilge mostly below the water line because the placement adds much balast and lateral stability. Also the weight is more centered fore-aft in the hull so it makes it much easier to balance and trim the boat, and I dont need much trim tab to keep the bow down even running into heavy seas. Furthermore, the stresses and forces on the hull from the weight and power of an I/O are better distributed along the engine bearers inside a hull, but giant outboards load stress on relatively weak and small area transom of the hull at the very back. Not sure how the long term life of boats run hard in heavy seas over the years would be with a row of giant outboards compared to similar I/O power setups.
I agree. I see these boats running 4, 5 and 6 engines off the back and it makes me wonder how they are building these transoms. Let’s be honest heavy fishing boat and 1500+ hp all pushing on the transom and the sheer weight of the engines, I suspect that time will not be that boats friend as the stresses are extreme. But like I said not sure how they are building the transoms, so maybe it’s fine.
Wayne, I had a Hammond Mk.1 Challenger for many years, sold it and then years later bought it back. The interim owner (a mechanic) had run the 2 exhaust manifolds outside the transom with the wonderful growl at idle and roar at speed. (Part of the fun of owning and running the beast) As a matter of course, before starting the engine and idling for a while I used to open the engine bay to allow any possible fuel fumes to escape. Known as mechanical sympathy and common sense. In all the many years I owned the Challenger I never had to change the bellows. When buying a new inboard/outboard I would suggest you look at the design and buy one that has easy and unfettered access to the engine compartment ( i.e. a single hatch to gain access to the engine compartment ) as an addendum I would also say that anyone buying a new or used boat undergo a brief but essential course in how to run and manoeuvre the vessel. Watching some 'Haulover' clips one wonders why some idiots are allowed to use boats. You mention the outboard engines are faster. I had an inboard 260 hp. Mercruiser engine which on a calm sea and light load would top out at around 90 mph. All the best and Happy and Safe boating.
Wow - 90!
Twenty two years ago I purchased a new Cobalt 206 (Inboard/Outboard). The best decision I've ever made. Reliable fun for swimming, tubing, waterskiing, etc. Love my Cobalt.
Cobalt makes a quality buit reliable boat. Cobalts tend to hold the value pretty good.
My 1998 SeaRay 185 was bought used 15 years ago. I’ve had no major problems with it. However it’s only in the water for 5 months of the year and I winterized it for storage including draining all water out of the engine. Oil and gear lube change every year etc. Stored outside all winter with a Navigloo in -10 to-30 degree temps. Hopefully will get many more years. 🥰
I have a 1977 mark twain like the maroon and white boat in this video. Winterizing is simple. I start engine and spray carburetor fogging oil into carburetor till engine quits. Then I drain the petcock on the engine block and pull main water hose and pour 50/50 mix antifreeze in till antifreeze starts to come out of petcock engine block drain. I close drain and I am done. For good measure I pull outdrive water pump hose to the motor and pour 50/50 mix antifreeze in until antifreeze leaks out of the outdrive water pick up. I am done and I did all this in 15 minutes. When I start the engine up for summer I hook earmuffs up to engine outdrive and water hose. Turn water on. I start engine and let idle for 15 minutes. Antifreeze is flushed out and I am ready to go get some gasoline at the gas station. Off to the lake I go. Not difficult at all. Outboards are fine. Just get a suzuki or Yamaha. Extremely reliable. Mercury has too many problems as of this writing.
I have always preferred an OB. One of my concern's is that I run boats in the fall and winter times in the PNW. It can be a key thing when it is 32° F outside, flushing out the motor after your done is a helluva lot better. Inboards will retain water in the block whereas an OB won't. With water retained in the block, you have highly considerable chances to have your block frozen and cracked.
Yeah when I winterize my I/O it's not fun and I have to plan to do it before it's too late!
Don’t you use antifreeze coolant? It’s also better for rust and fouling of the freshwater circuit.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I don’t understand this winterizing. Most people where I live (Norway) keep their boats on the water year round and we are well below freezing. I’ve never heard of anyone using clean fresh water for coolant. The boats which are stored on the hard during winter are mostly open boats with outboard engines.
@@cortinaman1671 they pump water in for coolant and push it back out into the lake
@@devinwillis7787 Bold concept! 😄
Doesn’t it add additional cost to make two IB models, one for lakes with direct cooling and one for salt water with closed coolant circuit? Or are these boats only made for lakes. Excuse my ignorance - no big lakes around here, only salt water.
Never had an issue working on my motor in my sleek enforcer with a huge engine compartment, this dude only singled out a small selection of boats, plus can’t beat the sound of my 502, different strokes for different folks!!!
I bought a clapped out maintenance starved late 90s sea ray bow rider several years ago without knowing what I was getting into. I cussed it at first until I figured out what an I/o was all about (RUclips saved the day). I ended up having to pull the engine out, replace a head gasket, rebuild the carb, replace the driveshaft hub, and pull the out drive to replace the gimbal bearing, gimbal ring, trim switch, bellows and lower shift cable. It was a lot of work but it really wasn't terrible, most issues came from all of the years of neglect. We enjoyed the boat for a few summers once it was all fixed up and eventually sold it. My take away from it is they really aren't that bad if you keep up with the required maintenance and are actually pretty cheap to work on if you are able to do it yourself. On the other hand if you have to pay someone else to do the maintenance and repairs it can get expensive quick as marine mechanics around here would much rather work on an outboard and their prices reflect.
I can't even find a competent I/O mechanic. Was not expecting to have to become an I/O expert when I bought the boat.
Spot on! A marina owner I worked for back in the 1970s said never buy an I/O if the boat stayed in the water for the reasons you listed.
This video is an effort to promote outboard motors without listing any of their negatives. As such I can't really take it seriously.
....thanks for another awesome video.....Yes Wayne you hit the nail on the head....I have owned boats well over 50 years and have never owned an inboard/outboard for exactly the reasons you state which is the maintenance cost which is worse as they get older....the proof is in the videos all over RUclips.....
I can replace my 6.2L engine in my IO for a fraction of the price as an equivalent outboard (s)
Also you can run an outboard in Shallower water more easily. With an I/O you have to worry about damaging your U-joints if you trim up too high.
Well for a lakeboat still rather have inboored engine. True points friend.
Alright , good advice This is my first stern drive, and now I`m worried that the first time I go out this spring, It`s going to Blow up and Sink !! But really, Thanks for answering, most helpful !
The Boat Guy nailed it. Here is Delilah's Dilemma: The prices on used inboard/sterndrive (I/S) boats are SOOO attractive on CL, Boat Trader and Faceboook now! And there is a REAL shortage of used recent years outboard motor versions of the same model (keeping O/B boat prices higher). I can't tell you how many attractively cheap I/S boats have almost swayed me from my conviction to buy an outboard boat for my next one this coming winter/spring. And if you add two and two together after the purchase; the I/S's are priced cheaper than their O/B counterparts because anyone who has done their homework see's the I/S boat is the BIGGEST cash hole in the water of any boat out there. The in the know crowd have gotten comparative quotes on summerization/winterization from their local marinas and found servicing outboards are cheaper. Plus, outboards got no crackin dryrotted rubber tube bellows barely keeping the lake out of the boat (to change periodically), no ujoints or gimbal bearing to change. What few realize (until they need to change a sterndrive on an I/S), an outboard is a one piece engine and drive combo, one price and new parts for both deal. The I/S is like two motors bolted together: the engine and stern drive. Both I/S parts are extremely expensive when replaced together when comparing to just replacing the whole outboard motor. Outboards sip gas at crusing speed, V8 I/S's suck it. Lastly, cruise over to the Haulover Inlet videos where the REAL monied crowd show off their latest acquistions at speed. The inboard Cigarettes with two 1,000 hp I/S motors are few and far between now; having been replaced by mass quantities of RAID (Redundant Array of Inexpensive (outboard) Drives) runabouts: four or five 450hp Mercury Racing outboards attached to their transoms. Follow the monied crowd on I/S vs OB boat selection, they know what the best deal is when they see it.
Forgot the comparison. Boating (Boatingmag dot com ) did an engine comparison of the outboard engine, t he stern drive engine and the Rotax jet engine in/on the exact same hull: the Glastron 18 footer, all three versions were in current production by Glastron.) Date of article was August 28, 2017 titled "Boat Engine Comparison." when googling it. Spoiler: "Boating" chose the outboard version the clear winner. "We say, “Wise up, America!” and buy the outboard boat engine."
My last 2 boats including the one I have now are I/O's. They are fine but I agree with what you said as well. The biggest thing for me, especially since I work on my own stuff is maintenance. Bellows, u-joints and winterizing. Just a pain. Bad thing is that for a guy on a budget, outboards boats are just more desirable and more expensive. Maybe in 10-20 years, I might be able to afford one, LOL.
I have a center console Yamaha powered bay boat. I've had both negatives with outboards: expensive, less torque usually engines smaller. Parts and lifespan. Also weight/balance.
The engine location of an outboard is the BIGGEST negative. Depends on how one uses their boat... fishing, cruising, etc. On our '03 Cobalt 293 the swim platform is like the kitchen in one's home... it's where everyone gathers around, with no obstructions between the rear seating area to the swim platform to the water. Couldn't imagine two outboards in the way🤮. To each their own🤷♂️. Good video👍.
I'll probably get skewered for this but... I by far enjoyed both of my boats with jet drives more than I/O or outboard. They are reliable, very easy to work on with cheap automotive parts, able to go shallow and built with lots of power. I'm sad that end of the industry didn't continue to develop. Every drive system has tradeoffs, but for the most time on the water for the least hassle I think that's a jet boat.
Those Yamaha jet boats are very popular where I am. They make a full range of them. I think in the past there were some issues with maneuverability. Most are twin engine and I’m sure much improved
@@AW-yv9sq Yamaha has taken their game way past what I would have ever dreamed. Their boats are up to 25 ft. and some approach $90,000. I like old school v8 performance engines, but interesting stuff none the less.
There are lots of options for jets.
6:26 Love how the stern line is obstructed by the outboard. Inboard/outboards still have their place with express cruisers. Please explain how I mount my dinghy on the swim platform of my express with outboards in the way.
strong preference here for outboards (especially two) and that is all I would have, but they are crazy expensive, expensive to maintain, and having the weight at the end of the boat has a hobbyhorse effect on handling. Outdrive boats that are on a lift are worth considering as well.
Thank you! I never thought about all these downsides.
About a year ago I bought my first boat a i/o 99 sea Ray and the one huge issue is that almost nobody will even look at it here in FL. I was shocked 5 out of 6 places mobile or not said sorry . Sure I can do some simpler maintenance things and I even had some help to change the water pump but just remember that when buying a I/o
Cont , most even said they wouldn’t even touch a new i/o!
There are many cats/V bottoms running outboard engines now b/c of increasing power--up to 600hp. I've seen 60'-65' CCs running 6/600hp outboards over 70mph. For my personal boat I would go with a 36'-38' catamaran with 3/500hp outboards or 4 o/b if possible.
The issue is you can rarely find boats that are not inboards for lake styles but as someone who has a inboard I find they are cheaper easier and flipping a blower switch really is not that big of a deal ontop of that outboards have just a same chance of catching fire, so honestly it just depends on what suits you’re needs.
Yea for seasoned boaters turning the blower on is an automatic thing, but if an inboard engine catches on fire it is much more dangerous because it’s in the boat, where as an outboard is attached
Don't own a boat nor had any interest in buying a boat currently. However, I found this information very educational and glad youtube presented it to me.
I have a '95 chapparal The only problem I had is with the transom after almost 30 years. Motor, outdrive all performed well. I also own a tritoon with a Yamaha and the outboard is great, quiet powerfull, etc. both I/O and new 4 stoke outboard perform well
Agree with what you said. I have a 2002 Cobalt 5.7 Volvo. Have only two issues. Replace fuel pump twice. Now going thru the agony of replacing the steering actuator. As i do this replacement i think want a outboard. LOL. One thing not mentioned. As my boat is 21 years old. No structure issues. Keep a boat with outboards this long and might be looking at transom rebuild/replacement. Outboards are temperamental. I/O might be less expensive if need to replace vs outboard. I am not sure. Should i need to. I do know what a new replacement engine for my Cobalt cost. It is significantly less.
We have had an I/O since the 80s sure they have their problems but better handling and quieter and more torque than some outboard boats I’ve seen and as for the blower I just leave it on the whole time that the motor is running also we keep our boat on the trailer and only advantage I see in my use is being able to get into shallower water
You have some valid points . I have not been actively boating for a number of years , so you can correct any assumptions I am making . Back in the 70s and 80s my friends and I did a lot of in shore boating and towed in a number of outboard powered craft . Even back then the outboards were fairly reliable , but on big water when they did have a problem you really could not work on it . Here in the Pacific Northwest we preferred a fresh water cooled inboard for those damp chilly days . Cabin heat and defrosters were great . All my fishing buddies and I used transom savers , but we saw a number of boats not using them . The bouncing weight of a big outboard is hard on the transom . As the governments kill gas engine cars and truck and manufacturers quit making them , they will disappear from boating shortly after . Keep in mind , if they have their way , you will not be able to buy a gas engine outboard . Welcome to the wonderful world of giant batteries and electric motors submerged in salt water with high amp and voltage . Looks like smaller sail boats and oars will become popular again .
That government will be stopped in 2022 and gone in 2024. Gas engines on boats will be around for a very long time. Especially on larger vessels.
@@DrEd-th2lu We can only hope enough people think for themselves and quit drinking the kool aid of major media .
The Outboard motor lower units are submerged too and also have parts that will go bad as a result. Years ago it was outboards, then it was I/O, now back to Outboards. The pendulum will swing back the other way again, it's always a continuous cycle. I'm not opposed to outboards on smaller boats but on large cruisers, I think it cheapens the design and takes away from the class and appeal of these boats. I think once the electric bug hits boating, outboards will disappear as the electric motors will either be inboard or back to some type of hybrid configuration. Just some food for thought. I wouldn't count Inboards or I/O out just yet!
Of coarse the lower unit of an outboard sits in the water if not it would not propell itself
I bought a 2006 Bayliner with a mercuiser 5.0 duoprop. I kept it in salt water 7 months and put it in a barn for 5 months. Did it for 14 years. I never winterized it. I did start it up for 5 seconds to push 😢salt water out and shut it off. The boat was underpowered but never had an issue with engine or outdrive . 500 hours when I sold it. Change oil regularly.
That's wild! I assume you also serviced the outdrive and changed the impeller. Did you ever change the bellows?
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Impeller once and serpentine belt. Nothing else. I scraped oyster and barnacles off the stern drive at the end of the season. I think I changed lower steer drive oil twice.
Hello I just gave my nephew the Four Winns 180 with a 4.3L engine for free since I haven't used it in 4 years and it needed bellows repairs and maybe other stuff, since he's 22 years old and would love to play with it. I understand the trouble with climbing into the engine compartment to check things out. I want you to tell me that outboards are easier to change oil and winterize. I'm retired and can't afford to check boats out anymore. The next boat is it come hell or high water. Gil in Massachusetts
Well they're easier to a degree.
You can also install a oil change pump on a inboard with a oil filter relocater, which will make your life easier.
Of the 12 boats (so far) I have owned, 3 were I/O and 9 were OB. The biggest problem with I/O's is that most people don't maintain them and can't use them in winter, unless it has a closed cooling system. My area is full of boats for sale cheap that have a cracked block because the engine wasn't drained, and power went out in a freeze. An I/O also is not as durable as an OB in a saltwater environment, unless a closed system again, and doesn't perform in shallow water. While I/O's do have certain advantages the negative issues are enough for me to stay with an OB.
When Mercury stepped up to 400horse outboards and then 450horse and now a 600hp V12 or V16 it changed the whole boating world. But if you still want to go ultra high end top speeds you need a big V8 with lots of horsepower and Torque. The big motors actually run pretty dependable these days. if you take care of them the right way. I have twin Mercruiser 1100horse twin turbos in my current rig and it accelerates and pulls to top end extremely fast. Has a cruising speed of about 120mph if you like.. I think it's great. I'm sure some day the outboard will take over all that too. But you gotta love that big V8 rumble while it's here. So cool.
just got my first i/o after having a outboard for years and boy do i regret it, bellows ended up with a small leak into the boat, water somehow worked its way up the thru hull exhaust pipes got water into 2 of the cylinders.... making the switch back ASAP.. loved the big block power but not worth this headache
You have done a very good job of making your case. If I was to buy new, I would definitely consider the Outboard. Also, I did a lot of water skiing in the '70s behind my dad's boat. You don't need those big ski towers. A simple two point harness attached to each side of the transom with the ski rope attached to a pulley rode the harness. It went around the outboard motor.
I/O's came along and were a better alternative to outboards back in the day. They used to be more fuel efficient than an outboard, and more reliable. I'm talking 1970's when I grew up. Our family boat was a new Glasspar with a Mercruiser iron Duke in it. My Dad used to lecture me "don't ever own an I/O"! Well an old Volvo Penta and a 470 Mercruiser later I learned valuable lessons!
For me the big issue is winterization. I live in the northern part of Idaho and want to boat into the winter to fish. OB’s are much easier to maintain. The I/O require much more effort to winterize (though they just plain look better) and in the event there is a snap freezing spell in Sept/Oct (happened 2 years ago) and I was away on business, I don’t want to come back to a huge expensive headache. I also don’t want to winterize my boat too early and miss out on prime autumn boating either. OB for me because if this.
Wayne, one thing you left out, with an outboard, you gain additional storage where the engine once stood
Ready to get rid of my Larson with a 4.3 alpha one . For all the reasons you mentioned .👍 Agree 100%
Is the unsuitability of outboards for boats beyond a certain size, and perhaps also for boats of a certain type, also a consideration?
Boats over 30 ft either have multiple giant outboards hanging off the back or have actual inboard engines - which aren't the same as the I/O (Sterndrive) setups. It seems the I/O is really only used for 18-30 ft boats.
Here’s some more positives of stern drives:
-Better if the boat needs to be compact
-Better sea keeping compared to outboards due to being submerged deeper
- More balanced centre of gravity due to lower and more forward engine position
Those are valid points
We used to have a new Fisher 26' ib/ob pontoon and at first we liked it. It's a little different that with a boat with a hull since the pontoon is higher though. It was a 4 cylinder Mercruiser which I believe was a GM engine. But anyway we sold that boat after 2 seasons because it drank more fuel than any other boat that we'd ever had. I believe it was about 150 HP and I always was easy on it, never beat on my boats. But now we have a 24' Tri-toon with a new 2022 Mercury 150 FourStroke. It had a 130 2 stroke so we got the new Mercury and set up Vessel View to watch all of the systems. This thing is so fuel efficient. It's better than we could have even imagined. It is getting over double the efficiency of the 2 stroke 130. I absolutely love this setup. It will run the big girl at around 34 with just me and no gear on the boat but we usually only cruise at 18-20 mph. It has a 36 gallon tank and that lasts much much longer than it used to. I prefer outboards too.
I have an inboard. I have had an I/O and and outboard. I dont like the way outboards handle. The only advantage to an I/O for me is steering in reverse which I dont do anyway.
Outboards also have the advantage of far fewer emissions components compared with inboard engines. When the epa changes the rules and makes outboards have the same emissions as an inboard I think you will see a change
I see I lot of these boats on Facebook marketplace lately we bought a fiberglass 76 starcraft with stern drive omc inboard/outboard ford 302 I like it at first cause it had a lot power for 800 bucks but the more I looked at it when we had it and I noticed alot disadvantages like one time we took out lake few times its pretty hard to park and push it off the beach or land it cause it really heavy boat plus the back end where inboard /outboard drive came out it was perty hard to move up and down I wondered what would happen if we hit a log or rock i know it was supposed flipped up when you hit something on lower unit i thought it might break off and boat would start sinking plus I noticed the. Rubber boot was gonna have to be replaced at some point it started to dry up crack we sold that boat for almost 16 hundred dollars cause we put alot work and parts in that inboard motor boat we used the money to get our 90 hp johnson outboard motor fixed up that boat had more use for itwe like it more cause it was lighter weight and could carry more weight on it plus it wasn't that hard to lift push out from the beach or land after we parked it nice video BTW
Just the ability to remove the engine with such ease to store or work on it makes this a no brainer
Also the I/O has 2 universal joints and 2 right angle drive gear sets where as the outboard has 1 right angle gear set only.
Good point!
Here in SWFL we are on the water every weekend with a bunch of friends that already switched to OB boats. They spend all day trying to convince me to switch over, hanging out at the back of my huge unobstructed swim platform. Go figure.
LOL - that are jealous of you having one now and want you to join their club to feel the pain :)
Ob take up the swim platform big disadvantage. Rotax is working on a lower profile one but still sticks up 2 feet