Oil sensor. LS's are famous for it. So much so many with Vettes come up with a remote sensor location to facilitate changing without removing the intake or having to cut through the cowl. I rigged mine up with a remote mechanical gauge as well.
My 4.0L 02' TJ has a large under-belly skid-plate with a lip (facing up of course) on it. It holds all the oil that leaks out until I hose it out. Works like a champ for keeping the driveway and garage floor clean. I think it's the front tranny seal but I'm waiting till it needs a new clutch. lol
My money is on the rear engine cover (similar to the timing cover except on the back of the engine). Its very tricky to get sealed up properly if you remove/replace it.
Not a jeep owner but have seen Ford, Dodge and Chevy develop leaks at oil pressure sender as well as cam pos sensor and latest one was massive leak under pressure on turbo oil line o rings and camshaft cover to intake manifold joint. Good luck!
Ok, I’ve had to too many cocktails and maybe a few puffs too many because I could have sworn you did this already. Hope your trip with Aubrey to the Yukon is going awesome Jerry! We need video coverage of the first ice cold Chilkoot on your trip….
I would start off with the basics first which would be the camshaft position sensor o ring,it's also where a UV dye leak detection kit would come in handy. I recently repaired a minor oil leak on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine,it was only making a little bit of a mess around the starter motor area of the transmission bell housing,it was coming from the valve rocker cover seals,I hosed the oil off & now it has stopped leaking after replacing the seals. In my experience if it's leaking from the front it's either the front crankshaft oil seal, the timing chain cover gasket or both,I replaced them nearly 6; years ago & it hasn't leaked since. I replaced the rear main oil seal in 2016,it should be replaced with the rear main oil seal carrier gasket because they're leak prone as well & it's a lot easier to fit the rear main oil seal in the rear main oil seal on a work bench if you're lying underneath the car & trying to fit it. The rear main oil seal carrier should be fitted with an updated version which accepts the thinner black seal (10mm) although I managed to reuse the 13mm deep rear main oil seal carrier which had the thicker olive green coloured rear main oil seal fitted,I just carefully lined it up with the chamfered edge of the rear main oil seal carrier, there has been no leaks for 8 years after replacing the seal & the gasket. I have also replaced the valley cover gasket underneath the inlet manifold so check that, as I mentioned,start off with the basics first,I have replaced all of the gaskets and seals in my engine over the last 6-11 years & it doesn't leak oil now. They shrink &: get brittle meaning that they crack & leak with age & exposure to heat, oil, etc!
Hey Jerry if it were me, I would pull the intake so you could have a better look at everything. That just blows, if it isn't one thing it's another. Sorry my friend. Take care . P.S You will get to the bottom of it.
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Oil sensor. LS's are famous for it. So much so many with Vettes come up with a remote sensor location to facilitate changing without removing the intake or having to cut through the cowl. I rigged mine up with a remote mechanical gauge as well.
My 4.0L 02' TJ has a large under-belly skid-plate with a lip (facing up of course) on it. It holds all the oil that leaks out until I hose it out. Works like a champ for keeping the driveway and garage floor clean. I think it's the front tranny seal but I'm waiting till it needs a new clutch. lol
My money is on the rear engine cover (similar to the timing cover except on the back of the engine). Its very tricky to get sealed up properly if you remove/replace it.
Not a jeep owner but have seen Ford, Dodge and Chevy develop leaks at oil pressure sender as well as cam pos sensor and latest one was massive leak under pressure on turbo oil line o rings and camshaft cover to intake manifold joint. Good luck!
Ok, I’ve had to too many cocktails and maybe a few puffs too many because I could have sworn you did this already. Hope your trip with Aubrey to the Yukon is going awesome Jerry! We need video coverage of the first ice cold Chilkoot on your trip….
You have, all these videos are the diy version of everything from the other channel
@@TestDontguess😂😮
Well, it's an LS, and they do drip after a while. My guess is oil pressure or valley plate
Donut gasket on the muffler bearing Jerry..😁😁
I would start off with the basics first which would be the camshaft position sensor o ring,it's also where a UV dye leak detection kit would come in handy.
I recently repaired a minor oil leak on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine,it was only making a little bit of a mess around the starter motor area of the transmission bell housing,it was coming from the valve rocker cover seals,I hosed the oil off & now it has stopped leaking after replacing the seals.
In my experience if it's leaking from the front it's either the front crankshaft oil seal, the timing chain cover gasket or both,I replaced them nearly 6; years ago & it hasn't leaked since.
I replaced the rear main oil seal in 2016,it should be replaced with the rear main oil seal carrier gasket because they're leak prone as well & it's a lot easier to fit the rear main oil seal in the rear main oil seal on a work bench if you're lying underneath the car & trying to fit it.
The rear main oil seal carrier should be fitted with an updated version which accepts the thinner black seal (10mm) although I managed to reuse the 13mm deep rear main oil seal carrier which had the thicker olive green coloured rear main oil seal fitted,I just carefully lined it up with the chamfered edge of the rear main oil seal carrier, there has been no leaks for 8 years after replacing the seal & the gasket.
I have also replaced the valley cover gasket underneath the inlet manifold so check that, as I mentioned,start off with the basics first,I have replaced all of the gaskets and seals in my engine over the last 6-11 years & it doesn't leak oil now.
They shrink &: get brittle meaning that they crack & leak with age & exposure to heat, oil, etc!
Hey Jerry if it were me, I would pull the intake so you could have a better look at everything. That just blows, if it isn't one thing it's another. Sorry my friend. Take care . P.S You will get to the bottom of it.
Crank shaft pressure switch sensor, real common, just remove it and cap it off
It’s a LS it was designed to leak
⚠️"COULDN'T SAY WHERE LEAK IS COMING FROM BUT, I THAT CAMERA AND SCOPE, WHAT BRAND IS IT ? AND APPROX. $$$ KEEP "US" POSTED AND THANX o/lllll\o
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