500 HP FORGOTTEN Truck Back On the Road - Will It Run?
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2024
- “I am the vine, you are the branches; the one who remains in Me, and I in him bears much fruit, for apart from Me you can do nothing." -John 15:5
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Let's bring back my 1980 Dodge D100 big block build by tossing in a 500 horsepower big block engine! I bought it hoping on blind faith that it'll be good. Think it'll run? Stick around to the end of the video to find out!
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Dylan McCool
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Well the push rods worked with the steel shim head gaskets. Then you put thicker head gaskets on which raised the heads so now the push rods don't want to stay in place!
@@dennislockhart7290 That's definitely what happened!
I’ve used this exact same head gasket with the exact same stock push rods on very similar builds. I can’t see how .01 of an inch can ever cause that much play especially with hydraulic lifters. There’s no lash when they’re pumped up. I just walked to the engine that hasn’t been running in days and all the other rockers are tight.
@@DylanMcCoolVideoThen you either collapsed a lifter or wiped a cam lobe.... There's no other option
@@davelowets One lifter is definitely collapsed. The rest, I have no idea.
@@DylanMcCoolVideo Id guess those springs are wore out and/or not stiff enough for that cam. Might even be making your valves stick because of so.
Dylan, I'm so sorry. Please don't give up on the higher horsepower engine just yet. You have an intriguing subject for your channel. Diagnosing this issue may help all of us motorheads. More power is always better in the long run. Love u bro!
Actually would like to see the tare down and see if the problem is fixable and put it back in the truck. Thanks for another awesome video.
I agree. It would be very interesting to see a tear down. Maybe something simple to fix once you can see the whole picture.
Your pistons all had eyebrows from hitting the exhaust valves.
If your springs are not right for that cam revving it will float the valves. That can knock your valvetrain to pieces.
Pull the heads and check for bent valves.
I wouldn't just go and rip the heads off for NO reason. If all the exhaust valves are bent, the motor would have ZERO compression in any cylinder. It would NOT run. DO a compression test first.
I didn't see that every piston had a mark on it.
That could have been a previous issue with the timing chain, or a valve spring breaking and the motor dropped a valve, and the previous owner had already repaired it.
Pistons are a mile in the hole
@@karlsracing8422 If you don`t have the cam degreed right, you can still get valve/piston contact.
@@davelowetslook at 22:43 I'm by no means an expert, but each of the pistons look like they have come into contact with a valve. What else would leave a mark like that? When he removed the head at 16:20 and said that it looked fantastic the first thing that my eye was drawn to was the mark left on the piston. I initially assumed that it must not be an issue since he said it looked good, but obviously there is a problem.
Jamie at DDG did a video recently about the various aftermarket parts with different tolerances affecting the rocker action as there is no adjustment there. He fixed the issue with adjustable rockers from 440 source I believe.
I'm sure you'll figure it out. That kinda thing can be very frustrating. I appreciate you sharing that kinda thing. It'll show folks that crap happens, but you just have to bounce back.
This is my favorite truck on the channel. That 400 sounds absolutely incredible
Good call Dylan on that 383 truck was screaming for that big girl
There are so few channels as real as this. You work, have problems then fix those problems and move on, that’s real life folks. Looking forward to part 2.
Seems like either you have the wrong push rod length, or the rockers are incompatible with the cam, meaning the rocker angle is off. As for the oil in the exhaust, only 3 conditions come to mind being valve seals, rings, or PCV being the most common, and cracked head, or busted piston being the worst case scenario. A warped head could contribute to this oil condition as well. I would definitely check the geometry on those rockers though. Great video Dylan, be confident, you'll figure it out. Thanks for sharing.
You forgot one that was most likely in this case. A intake valve not opening (push rod not home) would create a severe vacuum that would suck oil past the rings and make it smoke. That is still just a symptom. The question remains WHY did the push rod pop out? WHY did one bent?WHY did the lifter collapse? OK, that leaves THREE questions.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship Agreed, nice observation.
At 16.24 when you took the head off, it was obvious one exhaust valve had hit the piston on number six cylinder. You may have a bent valve
A valve had hit it for SURE.
I'm guessing it was a previous issue and had been repaired though, because that hole would have ZERO compression if the valve was bent, and the engine WOULD have a very obvious gallop when turning it over with the starter, and would have a bad miss when it was running.
4 seasons of drag racing on an engine is ALOT, and it could have very well broke a valve spring and dropped a valve during any one of those seasons.
I've worn out, and have blown up engines in less than 4 seasons of drag racing.
With my 9 second car, rhe engine comes out EVERY season, gets checked over, and receives new valve springs at the VERY least, if everything else checks out OK, and the leakdown test is still in the acceptable range. She's ready for new rings by the end of the second season for SURE, and new bottom-end bearings go in every second season regardless.
That actually looks like current mark on the piston.
He replaced rhe steel headgaskets with thicket ones that would have fixed thr issue but changed the required length pushrod@@M_Phipps0520
I noticed that valve mark on the piston as well. Possible it was over revved floating the valves bending them. Pushrods were more than likely replaced to hide previous pushrod bent damage. Yikes! 😬
Sure enough. Not sure how he didnt see that. Bent valve for sure
Don't give up on the 383! Even though it's a pain in the neck having to pull the engine again, I think you'll be able to sort out whats going on with the lifters and/or valves.
When running an engine or just doing diagnostics especially on an unknown engine or a breaking in of an engine, a temperature gun or a thermal type camera can tell you everything you need to know about a running engine. You can see hotspots in the engine you can see what cylinders are performing better or not at all compared to the others. You can also see issues with electronics or any part that might be heat related...
Briar is the best investment for your Channel Dylan!
Yes, he's a great guy. I hope he sticks around.
Agreed
Yeah I like briar.
44:35 love the look of your dad's truck! really nice
I am just guessing here but, Mopar oils through the rocker arms so not enough oil pressure was being maintained to the lifters to keep them pumped up since it was flowing through the push rods unlike factory push rods. I know you put factory push rods in later and one was not working (collapsed lifter), and 1 push rod fell out maybe indicating another bad lifter. What I am suggesting is the lifters did not have enough pressure to keep them pumped up allowing the push rods to fall out and also wiping some lifters. I would say you need new lifters with the correct push rods. Easy for me to say it is your money. :)
Actually mopars oil through the rocker shaft. That's the BRB and the LA and the slant. 6. They all oil through the rocker shaft. Then they come out of the rocker shaft through the rockers and then it goes out to the rocker tips. That's how they're oiled. Why this particular engine had these push rods that had holes in them. Probably because somebody had them and they were the correct length and somebody didn't know any better thinking that they all threw the push rods and they don't. And the oil comes up from the block from the cam bearing journal and through the block into the heads and then straight on to the rocker shaft or in straight on into the rocker shaft. If you don't believe me, you can look it up. There's plenty of information in the factory service manuals and also in some of the better Chilton manuals
@@slantfish65sd That is what I said.
Hey guy, you don't need to apologize. You win some, you lose some. I think it's great how well you took it. People need to see this end of car restoration too. Not everything comes with a happy ending. I'm thinking there's something up with the lifters but, running or not you still did a nice job! I'll be looking forward to part two!
At least it was his own engine. I build engines for customers...and sometimes they fail for reasons nobody can explain.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship , that's why you work on them and make them work right, am I right?
@@paxhumana2015 Today was a show car, yesterday an old farm truck getting a new lease on life (it got everything). The day before I tackled two engines to see if they would run. One wasn't stuck but was in no shape to run. The other was stuck hard but we got it running like a top. I love seeing old stuff going again, but you can't win them all. I actually get paid to do this! Love my job saving old junk. I'm addicted to oil and rust.
Better check the lifters and cam lobes on that cylinder. Bet you wiped a lobe or two.
The extra .019" thicker head gasket isn't the issue here. The piston-valve clearance is definitely an issue though. The 509/292 purpleshaft doesn't play well with pistons lacking valve reliefs.
I’ve been there brother. You pull a decent runner to make it better. You do everything right but it just doesn’t run as expected. I don’t know Mopar. That’s why I love your channel because I get to learn more about Dodge,Plymouth, and Chrysler products. I hope you get to figure out what is wrong with your 383 and get her running right. Looking forward to seeing it! God bless! 😊
I’m wondering if it’s not an issue with your lifters. They collapse when shutdown depending on lobe position. Pops the push rod on startup. Might just try the original lifters, or buy a different set. Better replace the push rods too.
Tough break guys, you got to take the good with the bad. At least you have a solid plan on what to do next. Great segment, thank you.
My first thoughts are that when you pulled the heads the dent in the one piston indicates that the cam is either taller than what can accept those push rods and then were replaced by the original owner to what you found in the engine. A bent valve or two was the result. Another thought is that I didn't hear if you had soaked the new or used lifters and they were void of oil, so they didn't pump up and some either froze and allowed the resultant excessive slop to have them to come out of the lifter cups. Just a few thoughts.
I would take the entire top end off and inspect everything thoroughly before running it again. If the rocker assembly is properly torqued and valve springs are all fine, then it that leaves the lifters or cam as the source of the problem. The cam might be trashed.
Hope you're doing well Dylan..left a like as always.....Also hope your dad is doing well... Honor thy father...You and everyone be blessed
Mine, unfortunately, deserves none, for he was an evil jerk, and still is as well.
lifter is pumping oil but its not holding pressure(check ball valve is not sealing if it has a check ball or it could have a metering valve inside that is not sealing)
open up lifters in question as crap could of blocked the sealing of the metering valve(think disc) or check ball valve if one is at the bottom of lifter
best of luck
if the seal/valve is not sealing it will still flow to top of pushrod but the lifter will bottom out causing a LOT of play and it will throw a pushrod
Dylan, sorry to agree with a lot of comments: Sounds like you used a thicker head gasket? Therefore your valve clearances will be different. Can you not adjust valve clearances? That would solve pushrods falling out. New lifters? check them!! Cam wiped? not likely but possible, get cam checked by tuning shop, They may find something or not . I live in UK, and have no experience with any of your motors, BUT, I was engineer for 30yrs. For pushrods to fall out, it screams difference in clearances, thicker head makes that difference therefore you need adjustable rockers.
I would pull the pan , make sure the oil is clean if so I would opt for a new cam and lifter package as well. My guess you got lifters not holding pressure and staying pumped up. Soak the new ones and then pump them by hand with a pushrod while they are submerged in oil just as an extra step to be sure they are pumped up. Most people just submerge them and don’t pre pump them .
😮 Cam lobe wiped??
Looks like valves hit piston probably got some bent valves. When you cleaned off the pistons you could see where they have been hit with valves befor.
Well you changed head gasket thickness, lifters are the main things. Could be thickness of gasket changed the length of push rod. Lifters could have failed, cam lobe wipe on break in. A lot of variables to check. Good luck👍👍
Kudos for the video editing skills and narration for the call backs and history. I aways enjoy the entertainment and knowledge put in each video.
Thats one cool truck Dylan, it kinda reminds me of a ‘74 ramcharger i owned 20+ years ago, it too was black, but it had a built 360 in it and a transmission that didnt have reverse so you had to park it very strategically!!! Awesome video bro!!!
Hope you can. Get it running the way you want. Never can tell what it could be. Thanks Dylan ! 💯👊👍
Well this is a call Dad moment, be thankful you have him and his wealth of knowledge.
I'm not a professional but I thought thicker gaskets would effect push rod length. Can't wait for the next video to see what it was
Think it could be the head gaskets the thickness you said you put thicker head gaskets in
I’ve used these same head gaskets and same lifters on very similar builds. Shouldn’t be that big of a change to cause this kind of issue.
You change the headgasket thickness rods are short now
You may have put in a marine cam that runs counterclockwise, which is why you’re having timing issues and bending rods, I’m not sure about the markings, but I would looking into that issue, it might just be changing of your cam,
Long time follow, Michael D Souza😅,
.020-.030 thicker head gasket can cause too much gap between the rockers and push rods. That rocker setup is great for a factory cam, but I prefer screw in studs and guide plates. Hope you get it figured out and didn't wipe out the camshaft
Why in the HELL would you go thru all the bullshit trying to convert a Mopar shaft rocker head to studs and guide plates? 🤦🏻
Shaft rocker setups are a THOUSAND time better than ANY stud and guideplate setup could EVER be.
Go take a look at most big power engines, and you'll find a shaft rocker setup under the valve covers.
It's SIMPLE to convert the Mopar shaft system to be adjustable...
You simply purchase a set of aftermarket shaft rockers that have a threaded pushrod cup with a jam nut on the pushrod side, and then install them on the stock shafts.
NO machine work, NO studs, NO guide-plates, and NO stud girdle needed.
WHY would you spend a TON more money to convert the whole thing to a stud setup, and go BACKWARDS in performance and reliability in the process?? 🤪
@@davelowets He`s a Cheby guy, he don`t unnerstan.
Head gasket thickness is much different between the steel shim style and the blue paper gaskets. That and it looked like you had a valve strike on one of the pistons when you took it apart. Try going back to a steel shim gasket
As soon as I hear that pop when starting it, I knew you had pushrod issues. My 04 Ranger had a pushrod slip after a head replacement and it made the same exact sound.
Ok, the carb needs to go. Either a thermoquad, or a Hp Dominator is what the 400 needs to breathe properly. An M1 intake would also be advised for maximum power. Just an old Dodge wrench with a few tried and true suggestions for your badass 400👍💯 ive modded many of these when i worked at the county shop, we would soup them up as far as we could for police use, we had several sattelites that were interceptors with tall rear gears that would run 150 mph all day long without overheating on 115° days with all that extra cop equipment weight in the car. These blocks were far superior to modern blocks because of the high nickle content iron they were cast with ( thats why they are so expensive to machine because they tear up cutters at the maxhine shop) all pre 1974 blocks no matter what displacement are the best for big reliable power, sure they're heavier but they will not crack in half when you push the limits like modern blocks will.
Shift happens! The trouble is finding what variable shifted to cause issues.
Hope the tear-down is illuminating!
I love those old dodge truck's I don't care for any of the new dodge vehicles one bit I only have love for old dodge vehicles
Howdy Mr. Mccool
Since the pandemic a lot of lifters had gone down the drain I’ve had my issues with my 318
It’s a somewhat known issue that the lifters we are getting here in the states are not the same as they used to be and are OE spec but fail terribly
i lvoe my 1980 w150 short bed. Its got a slant and a 4 speed but man these trucks so much fun
I had a ‘67 Monaco with a 383 once. My mom gave it away before I got my license. Had it running and ready to go. Haven’t found one since.
Dylan -- really enjoyed the video! Sorry for the pushrod issues but my shade-tree mechanic work tends to result in having to go back an fix things more than once.... so is encouraging to know even an experienced car guy has a stinker happen from time to time. Hang in there -- anything you do to get this one going would make another interesting video. At least your dad got the rear-end he wanted for his truck :-))
51:56 brother run a compression check on that bank ,it's definitely bent and dropped them in the valley,need some hardened pushers and upgrade on valve train sweet ride but you got a cam issue big cam which it may be to much for stock hollow push rods and may have eating ya cam,wish there was more but definitely compression check
The thicker head gasket moved the length on the push rods
This is exactly what happened. The thicker head gasket requires a longer pushrod. The valves that aren't pumping up will probably need to be honed.
So...why did the one push rod bed? and why did the one lifter fail to pump up? Do you think there is only one problem?
@@joshuareynolds404 Think again. I build engine all the time using stock length push rods with thick gaskets and have never had a problem. Hydraulic lifters can more than compensate for the difference in the gasket thickness.
For sure,need to check cam.
Easiest way in the car, pull the rocker arms and push rods. Put long on the rim of the lifter and spin the motor over, if any of them don't come up ,you probably have a cam lobe wiped.
Need to also check for coil bind.
I’m sorry that this happened to you after all the long hours and late nights you put into this.
I’m looking forward to part 2 of this big block pickup MOPAR.
The valve train oiling reminds me of a hydraulic 225 slant. Lifters are the very last part to see oil pressure.
Hey just a thought I highy recommend buying a comp cam kit, cam. Lifters and valve springs. It will save alot of headaches....
I got faith in you Dylan you will figure it out, Awesome Video.
Has Briar got a cool car of his own? If not, he deserves one, how about a project car for him?
Did you check for pushrod length? Sounds like no pre load.
That 383 had some piston to valve interference issues. There is a valve impression on the piston where you removed the head. Personally, I don't buy used engines unless I can hear it run prior to purchasing, or either I'm buying it with the intentions to tear it down and rebuild. Been burned a couple times and that's a good enough lesson
You need to put some weight in the rear of that pickup.
Maybe wider tires?
I like Dylan's style.
Is that a 727, 3 speed auto trans?
The head gasket thickness has changed from when they where cosmetic style so you pushrods are now to short you need to find zero lash and add 50 thousandths pre load in and that should be good but double check the length from the set that you used and see if there is any difference I would bet there is.
My friend’s dad had one of these trucks. It burned nearly as much oil as it did gasoline. The 318 was so worn out that his 20 mile round trip to work burned over a quart of oil every day.
That is a bummer but it happens to the best of us!! And with used motors, it’s always a gamble, but still a great video and something learned is always something gained
Awesome truck! Id really like to see some 392 hemi heads on that poly 318 club cab ya got there though😂😂😂
Years ago, hot rod magazine had a 400 low deck build that used a 426 forged crank , hemi rods, and special pistons with raised pins to get 900 na hp from an otherwise stock 400 block. Always wanted to build one.
Wow you need to do a nother cut grass video/ fleet update
I had your problem one time before. Went to four sets of push rods. I replaced all the rocker heads and did not have that problem again. Believe that the rocker head has had a slight oblong look to it. And they just slipped right out. On your one that's not moving. I'm thinking you have a bad lifter.
That "318 blue" and chrome looks great
Man i love the 74-78 dodge trucks(78 is my favorite, but they are all good)
I became a chevy guy because i could afford them.
Once you have 3 or 7 in the yard, your committed to that brand for compatibility sake.
But i grew up on the passenger side of a 74 longbed with a loud 318, and a 4 speed. Watching the road go by through the rust holes in the floor.
Then there was a 78 4x4 with a 360 that sounded rowdy as hell(cam, intake, headers, big 4 barrel carb)...but that was the last Dodge my dad had. All chevys after that.
I know Chrysler stuff is always 2-3x the price, and harder to find. But this is going to be worth it when its done.
Those 383 motors were just awesome rpm machines.
You will get it, don't give up
Man that sucks. Hope you keep us updated on what you find. Im really interested in the cause and remedy.
Definitely need a pole barn with gravel floor at least so they dont rust away after you put all the new parts on
Great video Dylan you have such great subscribers to help you thru this everyone is waiting for part 2 to actually see what went wrong. You have everyone sitting on the edge of their seats waiting for part 2. Good luck and God bless.
I do appreciate the humility and civility McCool displayed as well as the absolute professionalism when the fans had all the poop thrown at them.
So with all that said you probably either need to do a put the factory gaskets back in it or be the longer pushrods.. because they are still hydraulic lifters when the lifter is on the Bass circle you shouldn't have any lash in those
Push rods
Watched Dead Dodge Garage episode where it was blowing the push rods out of the engine.
He had to put in after market adjusters and set to zero lash like for a Chevy. It was only a few weeks ago if that. Seems very similar.
DO A LEAK DOWN TEST AFTER YOU GET THE PUSH RODS BACK IN PLACE THAT WILL GIVE YOU A ANSWER OF THE CONDITION OF THE RINGS
I hope you're adding a fan shroud. All radiators need one.
Why don't you get a barn (I know you have a work barn) but a garage to store all these vehicles instead of just putting them out in the field again!?? Store them properly.
He needs something.. saving a vehicles it's a necessity
Yeah an equipment building isn't a terrible idea. Like a 40x80, concrete floor to keep the weeds down, can be open for airflow and keep the cost down... those overhead doors aren't cheap. Or actually sliding doors would be fine too.
Buy a shirt and I will!
Because more content more money.
Hey why don't you get one for him if you're that concerned about it "PROBLEM SOLVED"
I had a 1977 warlock, black with gold strip. Loved that truck! At almost 400,000 thousand miles, the little 318 finally gave up. I put a 440 out of a 1970 Chrysler new Yorker in it and totally ruined that truck! The big block was so heavy that if you got off the blacktop, you were stuck!
The stock big block only weighs 120 lbs more than the stock small block.
It's a lot of work for you. For US it is great experience. Looking forward to the autopsy.
I'm going to have to agree with some other commenters on here. Don't give up on that engine. It has to be fixablle. You'll figure it out.
Good Afternoon Sir, I hope you are doing well and having a fantastic day today Sir, I hope your Family is doing well also ! Have a lot of fun and I am right here enjoying your fun !
Jamie from dead Dodge garage has seen that before. I forgot what the fix was but you might want to reach out to him. Definitely don’t give up on that engine.
I want to see more on the extended cab Dodge
I saw thiss same exact thing happen to Chris Birdsong on his truck with a built 440. The break in wrecked the cam lobes.
You have a great channel, as evidenced by keeping it real instead of not uploading a video. There is no failure. There is only opportunity to improve. No doubt you'll get it sorted out. Keep Going, and Also try getting in touch with Steve Dulcich.
Flat tappet lifters are an issue nowadays ( I am sure you know) which may have caused the issue and possibly damaged your can also. Looks like you did everything right. I would tear down the 383 and find out what happened and fix it. Melling lifters are reliable and don't cause issues. Should make a cool truck! Keep the faith!
Didn't you say you were surprised how the oil jetted out of the rockers? The reason was the pushrods had oil passages.
Just a guess, but I’d say you either wiped the cam when you put new lifters in and had to break it in again, or someone sold you some chinesium lifters and they failed. If it was a length issue all the push rods would be falling out. To change the subject, what is that distributor you’re running? It looks like it’s so long it’d have tons of torsional shaft give and reek hell on your timing accuracy.
Oil in the exhaust means oil past the rings!! I didn't think valve seals would put that much oil in the exhaust
M 10:08 great job open manifolds or open headers are not good to just run, learned a couple of decades ago it will burn up valves
I bet that the neighbors just love you and your channel, LOL! 🥴 I didn't do half of what you do and I get harassed by the PO PO!
Another great video I believe if you found out what type of cam it is for sure and then got some new lifters it should fix the problem as I feel it's stuck lifters or it's not feeding the oil for some reason to those lifters I could be wrong looking forward to seeing what you do but if I were you I would extract the lifters out put new ones in and see if that fixes it before you tear it down looking forward to the next one Kraig from Washington State
There was a big old spider on the cowl at 11:54 😮 I was screaming at the TV lmao 🤣
check your valve train springs etc , take those heads out and replace everything that moves with new hardware
I'm not a Mopar expert in any way, shape or form...but my first thought is the thicker head gaskets are your culprit.
You might want to mow and run a weed eater when we're trying to see vehicles lol
Nothin Wrong With That!!!👍 As my buddies and I say In the Northern New England Area. Dylan does what he does and is good nuff. At least he records it and shares it with y’all. So don’t be too hard on the guy✌️
Looks like some valves tapped the pistons at some point when u had it appart. With such high lift u probly dint have enuff clearance and either bent valves, broke valve guides and collapsed lifters when the valves tapped the pistons and crushed the push rods. u gotta get shorter pushrods an new lifters do valve clearance before starting. then do compression check. Its poppin cause the intake valves arent closing all the way.
When i first saw those rocker arms, i thought i was going to see the pushrods punch through them like on Dead Dodge Garage
I would make a suggestion,before you fire an engine turn it over without trying to start it,i could tell you had a dead hole when you started it,it was loping,you probably wiped the cam,try solid lifters with a new cam
May be leaking water through the head sometimes when they get aggressive with the porting it makes the water jackets porous because its so thin
Just a completely unscientific guess here, maybe the lifters you have installed were actually AMC lifters. outer diameter are withing a couple thousands but designed for thru pushrod oiling? Believe the brand new spec is 0.902 for AMC and 0.904 for Mopar. A new AMC lifter in a worn Mopar lifter bore would be a loose fit causing super fast hydraulic lifter bleed down?