Boat Gelcoat Repair On Vertical Surface [MATERIALS LIST👇] | BoatUS
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2018
- If you replace an antenna or other item topsides on your boat, you'll be left with an unsightly hole. But did you know you can easily fix the damaged gelcoat yourself? Yes, really! In this video we'll show you how to make a boat gelcoat repair on vertical surface. We've already covered how to do gelcoat repair on flat surfaces (link in video). Repairing topsides gelcoat is very similar but requires a few extra techniques to keep the gelcoat from running. BoatUS Magazine associate editor Mark Corke shows you how to make a seamless gel coat repair on your own boat. If you can sand and use a paintbrush, you can easily do this It just requires a few tools and materials and a little time and patience to get a professional looking finish.
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Read more about gelcoat and gelcoat repair: www.boatus.com/Search?term=ge...
MATERIALS
⚓ Disposable respirator: www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Sandin...
⚓ Acetone: I used an Evercoat product, lbut any acetone is fine: www.evercoat.com/product-detai...
⚓ Random Orbit Sander: www.portercable.com/products/...
⚓ Filler: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...
⚓ Blue painters tape: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...
⚓ Dremel rotary tool: www.dremel.com/en_US/products...
⚓ Dremel bit: www.dremel.com/en_US/products...
⚓ Gelcoat for almost any premixed boat color: www.iboats.com/shop/paint-and... (Comes with catalyst)
⚓ Syringes: www.walmart.com/ip/Monoject-C...
⚓ Foam Brushes: www.homedepot.com/p/Jen-2-in-...
⚓ Plastic mixing sticks: www.westmarine.com/buy/west-s...
⚓ Mylar Sheets: www.amazon.com/Transparent-My...
⚓ Wet/Dry Sandpaper (also available at any home improvement store): www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--we...
⚓ Polishing compound: www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--pe...
⚓ Buffing machine. The one I have is no longer available, but this is the equivalent: www.dewalt.com/products/power...
⚓ Compounding pad: www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--pe...
⚓ Polishing pad: www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--pe...
⚓ Polish / Glaze: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...
⚓ Collinite Wax (bottle looks different now): www.westmarine.com/buy/collin...
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Actually, I am surprised how very good this video is. Many vids bloviate and over-complicate and over-talk a simple task into a complicated task. Good approach, good techniques, good products, good commentary. Kept a simple task simple and conveyed it simply which is a much harder skill than it would seem. (Just look at all the other rambling, verbose, redundant awkward vids out there!) GREAT JOB! Thank you!
We're so glad you found it helpful, rjcote! We know folks don't want to watch a 45-minute how-to video. This one was longer than most that we do, but we kept it as succinct as possible while still showing each step and trying to answer some common questions folks have. Glad you feel we succeeded. Thank you so much for watching and for taking the time to leave a comment! Here's hoping your project, if you have one, goes smoothly and easily. And you may want to check out our gelcoat playlist for additional tips and techniques.
How refreshing to find a "how-to" video by someone who actually knows how to. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching, Michael!
M
Awesome video, short, sweet and straightforward. Beautiful results. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Spencer! Be sure to subscribe to our channel and hit that notification bell--we've got a new video coming out this Friday on repairing spider cracks. Same basic concept but includes using a thickener and has a few new tips. Mark also answers some of the most-asked questions we get about repairing gelcoat.
Fantastic video with lots of good tips how to fix the gel coat. Thank you!
You're very welcome A Acts! If you haven't done so already, check out our other gelcoat repair vids for more tips and additional techniques depending on the type of repair and location: ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq
Another great video. Have some vertical repairs to make and this gives me everything I need to start. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Greg. Let us know how your project goes and if you come up with any additional tips!
I learned something. Hire you whenever I need some patchwork done on my boat. J/k, excellent and helpful video as always.
Ha! Thanks so much for watching, Baby Boom. Hope you decide to give it a try. It's not very difficult.
Professional quality work... thank you for this useful video
You're quite welcome, Marlon, and thanks for the love!
Excellent instructional video; completed job looks great. I'll try using Mylar next repair. Thanks.
Thanks, and let us know how it works for you!
That was a brilliant touch with the mylar paper never seen that before great job
Thanks for watching, Gerard!
That Mylar trick is a great idea!
Thanks, Steve. We think so, too! Alternatively, you can use clear packing tape, but you don't want to leave it on more than a day or so because the adhesive could become an issue.
You make it look sooo easy.. i know it isn't.. as easy!! Thank you.
Thanks for watching! And it's really not that difficult if you prep properly.
Great vid Mark, I’m currently striping the teak from my Westerly Ocean Ranger in a very wet UK and will need to do a few small repairs to the gelcoat. I’ve watched all your guides and I know feel confidant to get stuck-in, Cheers matee. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching, Simon, and we're thrilled you found the videos useful. Bonus, there was no language barrier! 😂 (Hopefully you understand Mark better than we do sometimes!) Good luck with your project, and let us know how it goes. It's not difficult, just a lot of steps to do it right. Cheers!
Thanks, I have confidence to do this job now.
Thanks for watching, Marty, and glad we could help. Make sure to watch our other gelcoat repair videos as well as they each have slightly different techniques and extra info you might find useful: ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq Check in with us after you give your repair a go and let us know how it went.
Great tutorial!
Thanks for watching, Blaine!
good stuff!! Thanks much
You're very welcome, Ernest! Thanks for watching.
Awesome, really appreciate the well educated video. Have to take care of some nasty holes on my Mako classic 20, can’t wait to give it a go!
Thanks for watching, Louis, and good luck with the repairs. Let us know how it turns out. If you get a chance, take a look at our other two gelcoat repair videos--one for repair on horizontal surfaces and the other for spider cracks and crazing. There are a few other tricks and techniques that you might find helpful, and some additional explanations of waxed vs. nonwaxed gelcoat, etc. We've also put links to all the materials used in the three videos in the description to make it easy to find.
I’ll definitely check out those videos, thank you very much!
Thanks!!
Thanks for watching!
Vertical repairs are a bit scary but I am definitely going to give this a try. I have several spots that need to be fixed. Can't wait to give this a go! Great video.
Thanks for watching gawags. It's not as hard as you'd think. While there are a lot of steps, follow them and chances are your repair will look great. If you have a light-colored hull, we recommend you use a light filler rather than the dark one we used. Otherwise, you'll need a few coats of gelcoat with cleaning and sanding between to cover fully. If you're dealing with spider cracks or crazing, you can check out this video for some alternative methods: ruclips.net/video/i2w85yvrbHk/видео.html Good luck and let us know how it goes!
brilliant touch with the 'mylar/plastic paper, thanks I'm going to attempt my first fill and gelcoat repair thanks to you
Thanks for watching, Senseij! Glad our video gave you the confidence to give this repair a try. It's not that difficult, but it's understandable that folks are nervous about trying it. Let us know how it goes for you!
How did it go?
Great video that gives me encouragement to go forward with some self repairs. Will look further but some more info on tinting would be helpful, especially since many of us have well aged gelcoat, 30+ years in my case.
Thanks for the comment, John. Glad you found the info helpful and encouraging. We have tinting on our list of future topics, and we also have videos in the works on repairing spider cracks and how to spray gelcoat. Be sure to subscribe and hit the notification "bell" to receive alerts when we post new videos (every two weeks or more).
Like new. Very good job
Thanks, Hooter! Glad you found it helpful. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for more great videos coming regularly.
: Excellent
Thanks for watching, Johan! Glad you found it helpful.
Great video - thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I agree with John Kille one hundred percent
Thanks for watching and commenting, Stephen. We've made a note of yet another vote for a gelcoat tinting video. Hopefully it's something we can do this spring. Out of curiosity, are you looking to match a shade of white, or is your hull more colorful? Be sure to subscribe and hit that notification button so you are alerted when we post more videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Stephen. We've made a note of yet another vote for a gelcoat tinting video. Hopefully it's something we can do this spring. Out of curiosity, are you looking to match a shade of white, or is your hull more colorful? Be sure to subscribe and hit that notification button so you are alerted when we post more videos.
Fantastic, thanks! I just bought a 1984 Grady White and it’s full of “repairs” like that! I foresee a whole lot of this sort of thing in my life :)
Thanks for watching, and glad we can help out! Do check out our gelcoat repair video playlist. Each video has slightly different techniques that you might find helpful depending on the type of repair and location. ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq
@@boatus thanks!! actually my biggest challenge is going to be fiberglassing a huge hard to reach crack in my anchor locker. Checking out your other playlists for a similar situation (90° angle in hard to reach spot with only one sided access).
@@TheFishingMommy That sounds like a challenge! This vertical repair video is probably your best bet, but you might pick up some other techniques and info from the other vids, like waxed vs unwaxed gelcoat, etc. Just be sure the large crack is not from something structural, which is a bigger issue. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
@@boatus Thanks! upon closer inspection, it’s not even a crack; the entire anchor locker bin is broken off and separated from the cuddy roof inside the bin.
Yikes! Haha
@@TheFishingMommy YIKES! Glad you checked it out more carefully. We'd recommend having that addressed by a pro to ensure there's no structural or safety issues.
Enjoyed watching someone who knows what they are doing and give good advice. I have a question IF you get to this. I have a Sea Pro composite boat that I purchased from a previous owner. Several screw holes I need to repair and I want to fix and match the gelcoat. So, I have purchased epoxy for the filler. Can epoxy work as the filler and then add the gel coat for the finish look? Thank you.
Thanks for your question, Flash. The short answer is, yes, you could use a thickened epoxy such as West System (www.westsystem.com), which can be mixed to a peanut-butter consistency to reduce sagging and running. As this is not a structural repair, you can use the 405 filler, which is a lot easier to sand (if needed) -- 405 Filleting Blend filler for Marine Grade WEST SYSTEM Epoxy.
You would need to cover the back of the holes with tape (to keep the epoxy from coming out). Once applied, you can then squeegee off any excess epoxy with a plastic spreader (such as is used for autobody repair). You can also apply the clear Mylar film that Mark shows or even just a piece of painter’s tape over the repair to further reduce sagging.
The ability to match the gelcoat will depend on a lot of variables - age, color, etc. If the gelcoat is older, it will likely have faded to a degree (especially if is color) in which case even an exact replication of the original gelcoat will stand out to a degree.
If the gelcoat is white, I would probably just fill the holes with Marine-Tex and call it good.
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and let us know how your project goes!
Thanks for video. Quick question: How come you didn't need to sand inside the gouge before applying the filler? Doesn't that help the filler bond to the base better?
Thanks for your question, David. The sanding and acetone were enough to prep the surface for the filler, but you certainly could carefully use a Dremel with a burr bit if preferred, particularly if you need to open up a smaller crack to make room for the filler. If you're working on a light colored area, we do recommend using a lighter colored filler than we used here so you don't have to do as many coats of gelcoat to cover it.
Thanks for the video. I have a vertical Gelcoat gouge repair to make. It’s about 1/2” tall, 2’ long, and about 1/8” deep (no Fiberglass visible). Would you recommend this method or using a gel coat paste instead?The paste looks to be fewer steps but wasn’t sure which one would be appropriate.
Yes, you could use a paste and rather than buying paste you can make your own by adding a small amount of colloidal silica in with the standard gelcoat. However, if it were me I would still use the method I describe in the video as the repair is fairly small and can easily be accomplished. In some instances, the use of paste is a good idea but because certain filler powers are added to the gelcoat they are generally far harder to sand than unthickened gelcoat, so although in some ways a little faster to apply this gain is lost during the finishing sequence.
Thank you for excellent DIY repair. Two questions. 1. I have a 47 year old long keel yacht, with very fine textured non slip pads in various places, which cannot be purchased anymore. Some of these have spider cracks. 2. On foredeck, someone has filled the fixings for a liferaft with silicone, on the same type of non slip material, how on earth could these be repaired to a resonable standard.
Thanks for the questions, Patrick. Without seeing your boat, I am unsure just how fine the nonskid is. But one option is to fill the cracks as I show in the video and then paint all the nonskid areas. There is a product called Kiwi-Grip (www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/) that I have used that is excellent at covering up the sort of repair that you are referring to. The type of roller that you use for applying the paint determines the size of the stipple effect, but I am sure that you could get a roller that would very closely replicate the nonskid that you currently have.
As for your second question, nothing will stick to silicone, so it must be entirely removed before a repair can be made. Scrape up as much as you can, then grind out the remainder with a Dremel tool before repairing it as shown in the video. Here again I would then paint over the area with Kiwi-Grip.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the informative video! I'm wondering about one part of the technique, where you filled the filler up to just above the level of the finished surface, and then sanded it down flat. As we know, gel coat generally has a thickness to it, say one half to one millimeter or so. Why would you not add the filler up to almost level, and then let the gel coat fill the final few tenths of a millimeter of the final surface, so that you have a bit of thickness to the gel coat itself? This way you would minimize the risk of a shadow of the filler showing thru the final product, not to mention that having a bit of thickness to the gel coat gives you some forgiveness if the area ends up getting a minor scratch or ding later on?
Thanks for your question. In my experience, using very thick gelcoat as you describe leads to inferior results and requires far more work in sanding down the gelcoat before it is smooth and fair. Early on I tried all sorts of methods and have always returned to the technique shown in the video.
While gelcoat is generally thicker than paint, it should not be applied too thickly or it will tend to crack and craze, sometimes called alligatoring. Like with paint, several thin coats are always better than one thick coat.
To put things into perspective, the finished gelcoat thickness on a typical repair will be about 100th of an inch thick, which when blended into the surrounding existing gelcoat by wet sanding, will not be discernible.
Of course applying gelcoat to a horizontal surface is far easier, and you can get away with using a slightly thicker gelcoat layer. On vertical surfaces, you are fighting gravity. Thick gelcoat will run, which is why I cover it with the Mylar film as shown in the video. - Mark
@@boatus I just resolved an issue that I was having with getting the repaired area of my gel coat to shine but now I am noticing some of the shadow of the filler coming through so what is your recommendation for getting rid of that after going through the entire process in the video?
Do I simply repeat the process in the video (clean the area with acetone, apply more paint, let it dry then wetsand with 200 followed by 400 and then compound, polish and wax) or is there a different way to address this?
Great video, thank you! I see some recommendations for the temperature to not go below 60F. Is that critical for the repair, or will it just require that the repair take longer to cure? I plan to work on my center console under a canvas cover, with a space heater (I would stay with the heater the entire time, for safety). I'm wondering about the temperatures needed. Both the air temp and the temp of the boat, where the repair will be made. thanks
That's a fantastic question, Tristan. According to Spectrum Color, the gelcoat brand we used in the video, they recommend catalyzing between 60 F and 70 F, and the technical data sheet specifically says not to catalyze below 60 F. Consult the manufacturer's technical data sheets or contact the customer service department for the specific brand you plan to use. I believe it is more of an air temp issue than surface temp. Keep in mind that the gelcoat may need at least 8 hours to cure, and sometimes more. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@boatus thanks so much!
I noticed you’re using dynatron dynaglass for the filler…is this what you recommend or have you moved onto something better?
Thanks for the question, culpepperk. This is the filler that Mark prefers, but there are likely many other suitable options that would work
So many fillers to choose from. I need to fill 10 old small screw holes on my helm from some old equipment and was going to use some Evercoat Formula 27 filler then gelcoat over that. Am I using the proper filler?
Thanks for the question, CCScott. Evercoat makes lots of fillers as I’m sure that you have found out. Formula 27 looks as though it should work, although I have never personally used this product. My advice would be a to try one small repair first and if it works well use it on the remainder. Best of luck and let us know how you make out.
How do you adjust the gelcoat color to match? I was wondering if you could elaborate on what to use to change the tint of the gelcoat?
Great question, Hubble. If you don't want to purchase the gelcoat pretinted to match your boat, you can purchase gelcoat tints, either single colors or in a kit. Then you have to mix in the pigments in the right amount and combination to get a good match, which is something of an art. You want to do this before adding the catalyst so you have time to work with it. We have a script ready to cover this in a video at some point, however, we're currently "on the hard" with our videos due to COVID. Hopefully we'll have something for you by next year that covers this.
Thank you for your excellent video. I was researching your filler recommendations and was looking at Petit EZ Fair. The website I was on emphasized the need to prime the bonding material with another product before finishing with gelcoat. It indicated the primer would not fully dry properly if the gelcoat was put directly on the filler. I noticed that you did not use a primer. In your opinion is a primer necessary? Does another filler not require the primer? Lastly, is Bondo just as good as a filler as the Petit or AWL Fair products for an above-the-waterline patch of damage about the size of a quarter and 3/16" deep? Thank you!
Thanks for your question. There are rather a lot of fillers on the market and the choice can be bewildering. Both the Petit and Awlgrip products are very good but for your particular application I would recommend Formula 27 All purpose filler manufactured by Evercoat. You can buy this online in small half-pint cans for reasonable price and unlike the products you mention does not require an intercoat before application of the gelcoat. Best of all, it is easy to sand and will blend in seamlessly with the surrounding area. As I show in the videos it’s important to keep things clean, wiping the area with acetone prior to application of filler or gelcoat will help to rid the surface of contaminants.
Thank you for your answer. Excellent information.@@boatus
Great video. Did your gelcoat have wax in it? Or is that why you used the Mylar film?
Great video. What fillers would you recommend?
Thanks for watching! Providing your repairs are not structural and you are just bringing the surface back to a smooth, flush finish before applying gelcoat, use a lightweight filler such as AWL Fair or Petit EZ Fair. These products are easy to sand and will feather off to a very fine edge and blend in well with the surrounding surface. Do not be tempted to use anything which says it has Cabosil in it. Although great for structural repairs, this is a strong epoxy reinforcement product that is almost impossible to sand and will lead to disappointing results.
Both Awl Fair and EZ Fair are readily available from West Marine and other marine retailers. Read the instructions carefully and don’t add too much catalyst, a common mistake, that will make the filler harden before you have time to use it.
@@boatus thanks for the brilliant advice. Really appreciate it 👍👍👍👍
When you're using the mylar film do you use the gel coat with the wax or without the wax? The reason why I ask is I have some gel coat with the wax included and wondering if I can use that and still use the mylar film trick?
Great question, Daniel. We used the mylar with waxed gelcoat to help keep it from dripping. But you can use it with either.
@@boatus thank you so much for the reply. Your videos are the best!
Would you apply the same technique to vertical dings on the outside of a boat or go straight for gelcoat like in your horizontal repair video? What grade of cutting compound do you use? Thanks a lot!
Great question, Nick. It probably depends on the depth of the dings. Deep holes like in this video require filler, but if they're not as deep, you might consider the techniques shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/i2w85yvrbHk/видео.html. It uses colloidal silica as a thickener instead of filler. But on any vertical surface you're going to need some kind of thickener to keep the gelcoat where you want it. Regarding the finishing supplies (compound, glaze, wax), you can find links to the exact products we used in the video in the description. Hope this helps. Let us know how your project turns out!
@@boatusthanks so much 👍⛵
But how do u fix issues in the gelcoat that has the large silver fleck in it? Do I have to add the fleck into the gelcoat I'm putting on?
Hi Darren. I actually had to look this up as I'm not as familiar with repairing metalflake. This is a pretty good video showing you how to do it: ruclips.net/video/EsvwkbbHIXo/видео.html It also goes over how to fill the owie first, if necessary. Make sure to clean the area thoroughly before starting. I also might have used wet sandpaper for feathering to avoid deeper scratches. Good luck with your repair and let us know how it goes!
Thanks... much better..if you tinted the filler white instead of that musturd brown... it would be even closer to perfect...
You're right, Greg. White filler would have definitely been better. Or another coat or two of gelcoat to give it more coverage, which is what Mark ended up doing after filming. Thanks for watching!
does this work on spider cracks on top deck also
Great question, Ed! The concept is the same. You may want to watch our video on repairing gelcoat on flat surfaces for additional techniques that may work better: ruclips.net/video/TJHk81_nKRI/видео.html. We are currently finishing up a video specifically on repairing spider cracks, but the general techniques are similar. Look for it in the next couple months.
What filler would you recommend if it was filling a void structurally underneath the hull?
If we understand what you're asking, this sounds like a larger issue that requires structural fiberglass repair. If you don't have experience with this, we recommend you seek the assistance of a fiberglass repair shop.
@@boatus I need to elaborate...I have a 2"x3" section on the hull where the gelcoat has chipped off exposing the fiberglass. This boat stays on the trailer but I'd still like to patch the void so the fiberglass doesn't start absorbing water...would I be ok using a west six10 epoxy to fill the void so it's waterproof or use a gelcoat with wax in several layers? Thanks for replying so quick by the way.
@@woodyrrw1038, thanks for the clarification. Providing that the fiberglass laminate has not been damaged, then yes, you can fill it in the way you describe. Fill the damage flush and then apply gelcoat as we show in the video. Good luck with your project!
What I didn't catch was the whole filler bit. I assumed the gelcoat divot would have been filled with gelcoat.
1) If not, why?
2) What was the filler material? Is is a two part epoxy like gelcoat?
3) If the filler is sanded flush to the surface, doesn't this just leave space for an extremely thin layer of gelcoat on top of It?
I'm confused because if you sand the gelcoat repair down flush to the original surface, doesn't the filler just reappear? I assume you have to be extremely careful not to sand the repair too much or you are back at square one.
All good questions, Brian. These were much deeper holes than just a nick/chip in the gelcoat. First of all, the gelcoat won't fill them since the holes were from screws where an antenna was removed. (Same issue as if you tried painting over a large nail hole in a wall.) Second, you want to ensure you protect the holes from water infiltration since it's through the fiberglass into the structure underneath. I believe Mark used Dolfinite as his filler for this project, but there are many other suitable fillers on the market. (If your gelcoat is light as in this application, we recommend using a light-colored filler instead of the dark because it required several applications of gelcoat to cover.) We have a list of supplies we used with links in the description. And, yes, you only need enough gelcoat to cover the repair so it's not visible. Think of gelcoat as a paint/sealer for the fiberglass underneath. You want to make sure you sand the repair even with the surrounding area and not add any ridges. Do this by wrapping your wet/dry sandpaper (used wet) around a block of wood. When the repair is flush, the paper will literally "stick" to the area. You can see this in the video we did on repairing spider cracks. Hope this helps!
I took my 2855 Bayliner Cira Sunbridge to PV Mexico. It sat in the water for 5 months. When i pulled it out i was horrified at what i saw. Barnacles and Zebra muscles every where. The bottom paint was mostly eaten away what ever it was. Nothing seemed to get them off the hull. I would up using a chisel and hammer to do the job. There was damage to the gel coat from previous owner along with the damage i did to the gel coat. I plan on repainting below the waterline after fixing the gel coat.( there must be 100 places to fix) I am having bunks made to get boat off of trailer and should be sanding this week end. This video was very good to see before i get ahead of myself. I plan on doing the same thing except times 100 or so. Any one paint a boat with a roller??
Yikes! Sounds like a nightmare. Glad we could help you with the gel coat repair. I'm concerned that the bottom paint appears not to be adhering. I'm wondering if the hull wasn't properly prepared before originally painting. I suggest before repainting, get the bottom as clean as possible (as close as possible to the original gel coat), lightly sanded, then wiped down with a solvent like acetone to remove surface waxes. Before applying the bottom paint of your choice, it may be worth considering applying a barrier coat, such as the Interprotect system as offered by Interlux. And to answer your question about whether you can roll gelcoat, absolutely. See our other video on repairing gel coat on vertical surfaces at ruclips.net/video/5EapSjzjAyQ/видео.html. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
@@boatus
I sanded the two coats of paint off the boat along with generous amounts of gel coat with 150 grit sand paper. I now plan on using Pettit Easy Fair two part epoxy compound to repair all damage. You mentioned using a barrier coat (interprotect system) would this be Interprotect 2000 by interlux? If yes. What would the steps be after the barrier coat? A couple of gel coats or paint? I do not know if i will go in anything other then fresh water again?
Please keep in mind i am doing this outside by myself. The boat is sitting on a 4 foot wide, by 1 foot across, by 2 foot high that is tapered up on the back of the hull .There is also a jack at the front sling area. I pull the trailer in and out as needed.
Thank you in advance
Ken
@@kennethyoung2077 Thanks for the follow up. You are correct when you say Interprotect 2000. You may find the application guide helpful as this contains all the information that you are after. Essentially, once the barrier coat has been applied, the antifouling can be applied directly on top with no inter-coat required.
international-yachtpaint.com/s3/documents/Guidance/ultimate_no_sand_system_usa_eng.pdf?_ga=2.98397471.1688887991.1565808458-320579966.1565808458
Great video but confused with fact sheet of Petit EZ Fair stating to NOT use Polyester Gelcoat over-top. Everyone says you can apply gelcoat over top but all fact sheets say not to.. HELP!! I should mention that the gelcoat I have is Polyester Gelcoat repair paste (100668)
Hi David. Thanks for the question. We normally recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter -- after all they should know best. What I can tell you from experience, however, is that I have used gelcoat over EZ Fair and never had a problem.
@@boatus Thanks for the reply. I've read over your other recommendations and end up using Formula 27.
How and where do you get the gel coat color matched?
Hey Rich! Thanks for watching. There are quite a few companies that offer premixed gelcoat for a wide variety of hulls based on manufacturer and hull year. Spectrum is one such company, and is where I buy my gelcoat: spectrumcolor-com.3dcartstores.com/Gel-Coat-Search_c_7.html If your particular manufacturer isn't listed, you can also get custom mixtures just like matching paint colors at the hardware store. You can also try to mix the color yourself using gelcoat tint. This takes some patience and an eye for color. We are working on a gelcoat tinting video sometime this year (hopefully).
BoatUS Thank you very much. That is tremendously helpful. I’ve got a 23 year old Proline that’s got a few small dings so was thinking of tackling it myself. Your video and the info on color matching are tremendously helpful. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. All the best!
@@bigrich6750 Good luck with the project and glad we could help. Let us know how it goes! FYI, depending on where your repair is located, we have two other gelcoat repair videos--one for repairs on flat surfaces and one on repairing spider cracks using gelcoat thickened with colloidal silica. You might want to watch both just to see some other techniques that could be helpful. Both videos also include a materials list in the description.
Could ya use 3M 5200 or maybe Ding all epoxy stick
Do you mean for filling the holes, James?
@@boatus yes
First, Thank you for the video and it was very helpful! I tried to repair 2 small areas on my boat using this method but when I came to the part where you apply compound, I used turtle wax runbbing compound and set my dewalt buffer to 600 with the white pad but it started to remove to much of the paint to the point where the filler started to appear a bit through the paint so I stopped and applied more paint and then after it dried I sanded it by hand with 400 grit paper with no water and was able to get all of the fine lines out. I did not use the compound pad or the polishing pad in fear that I would remove to much of the paint again. I then applied some turtle wax polish and hand polished it and finished it off with turtle wax menuba wax but the gelcoat still appears faded next to the original gel coat. Can you please provide some recommendations on how to convert the faded areas into shiny ones like the rest of the boats gel coat? Also, I can email you pics so that you can see exactly what I am referring to - just let me know what address to email them to. Thank you in advance
Thanks for watching and reaching out with your question, Robert. It would help us to be able to see the photos to give you the best answer possible. Please email to magazine@boatus.com and put "Attn: Mark" in the subject line. (Just remind us in the copy that this is in regard to the gelcoat video question.) Once we receive them, we'll get back to you.
@@boatus Thanks and I just sent you the email
@@robertdomazetovski4582 Got 'em and sent them off to Mark. Thanks!!
@@robertdomazetovski4582 I think this has to do with the products that you are using. Turtle Wax products are meant for cars which are obviously coated with paint and clearcoat. These coatings are much harder than gelcoat which is soft by comparison. From what I can see from the photos and the comments in your email it sounds like your technique is correct. I would suggest using the products that we recommend in the video and I’m certain that your results will be better.
@@boatus Thanks for getting back to me! I have already ordered the specific compound, polish and wax used in your video and I am waiting for them to arrive. Based on the photos that I sent you, can you please tell me if i should not bother using the compound and instead just use the polish and wax or should i use all three (compound, polish and wax) as the area that I am working on appears very faded and I am worried that I may be removing to much paint if i use more of the products than i should.
what is that film? and what kind of filler?
Thanks for your questions, Juan.
First, the film. It is simply a sheet of thin plastic that can be purchased at an office supply store. It's sometimes referred to as Mylar film, but generally it's called plastic film.
There are two types of filler that I would recommend. The first is Awlfair from Awlgrip and the second is Interfill 833 for Interlux. I personally favor the Interfill product. It’s epoxy based and, it comes in two tubs. You simply mix in a ratio of 1:1. I sets up fast and sands easily leaving a very smooth surface ready for gelcoat. It can be bought online from retailers like Hamilton Marine, Jamestown Distributors, West Marine, and Defender.
Is this gelcoat wax or unwax type?
Hi James. We used waxed gelcoat but you can also use unwaxed. If using unwaxed, you would need to seal it off from the air using PVA or a sheet of mylar to allow it to cure. You can find out more about waxed vs unwaxed gelcoat in some of our other gelcoat repair videos--I think specifically the one on spider cracks and also the spraying gelcoat video. All of them show slightly different techniques you might find helpful depending on the location and size of the repair. ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq
How about a repair on a curved surface? (Like the corner of the boat which has hit the dock)
Thanks for your question, Steve. Basically, you would use the same technique that I highlighted in the video. If you use the Mylar as I show, it will conform nicely around a corner requiring minimal sanding once the gelcoat has set. A problem arises when the damage is more severe and the patch is larger, a common problem on boats at the intersection of transom and topsides that have struck the dock. Also, quite often the damage is more than skin deep and requires repairs to the underlying fiberglass laminations, a far more complex and time-consuming repair that also requires more skill to complete properly. We will consider your suggestion for a future video.
So why not just use a gelcoat from the start? Was it the depth of damage that made you look at a filler first?
Great question, Nick. The holes from removing the old antennae were pretty deep, and you certainly want to remove any possibility of water getting in there and rotting the wood structure underneath. Also, using a filler gives you a good, smooth base to add the gelcoat. It's kind of like painting the walls in your house: It's not very easy to fill holes in your walls with paint. You would use filler first, sand smooth, then paint.
@@boatus makes sense! Thank you!
What exactly is the "filler" stuff? Why do you need that and not just gelcoat repair goo?
Think of gelcoat as paint. If the hole is deep, you need to fill it first. The filler is polyester-based, similar to Bondo, which could also be used. You can find it at the marine store in the resin aisle.
That original repair 🙈😆
No kidding!
Why don't you use flowcoat?
Great question, Tim. We're using waxed gelcoat for this repair, which is essentially flowcoat -- curing when exposed to air. We use the mylar film for this particular repair to keep the gelcoat from running, not to seal it off from the air to cure. Have a look at our other gelcoat repair videos for other tips and techniques depending on location and type of repairs needed: ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq Hope this answers your question, and thanks for watching!
(a virus can go through that mask like a mosquito through a chain link fence. ) Great video. TY
No viruses here, Truth. This was shot well before Covid times. It is important to wear protection when dealing with gelcoat dust and VOCs though. Thanks for watching!
waxed or not???
Thanks for the question, Mary! We used waxed, but you can use unwaxed if you prefer. With this method, you're covering it anyway, so unwaxed will cure. You may want to watch our other gelcoat repair videos for additional techniques and more info on waxed vs unwaxed gelcoat: ruclips.net/p/PLSrVa8gUFaPwF4oz5H4JmSEkdlTwkCrYq Good luck with your project!
Very low volume on my phone .
Strange. Not sure why, Richard. Seems OK on our end. Thanks for letting us know.
Sander, polisher are EXTREMELY loud, but I can barely hear what you are saying
Interesting, Jim. Thanks for letting us know. We haven't had that complaint before, but we'll check it out.
It's unclear how you can go from a brown filler to a completely white background after sanding the filler.
Thanks for watching, Timothy. That can be an issue. We suggest either using a lighter colored filler, or you may need to apply a second coat of gelcoat if there's any bleed-through from the darker filler.
CANT HEAR HIM CEARLY PUT MICROPHONE CLOSER AND RE-VIDEO!
Sorry you're having trouble, Melinda, but Mark was wearing a mic. He did have a respirator on for part of it so he didn't inhale dust or silica, so that might be a slight muffling you hear during part of it, but generally the audio is fine. Are you sure it's not an issue with your speakers?
Positive no issue with speakers. I gave it a few minutes and stopped watching to type.
@@melinda5777 Thanks for letting us know. I wish I knew what to tell you. Audio is just fine on this end. Maybe turn on the subtitles?
Way too much filler, too much unnecessary sanding, risking further damage. Pro tip; masking tape is cheap, labour is not. You lost me when you slopped it on the woodwork.
Thanks for your feedback, Jim. You'll see the gelcoat wiped right off the woodwork before it hardened, but yes, you can protect your surroundings further if you want. As for the filling, the holes were deep and had to be properly filled. Unlike our other gelcoat video you watched that can be dealt with purely with gelcoat, these cannot. Generally with projects such as these, you want to overfill and sand down flush with the surrounding surface rather than having a dimple to mar the finish.
Another pro watching tutorials, hmm....
What a dork. To much work for a easy job. Buy gel coat repair Clean out foam apply
done
Show us how it’s done then.
You either do the job quickly or do the job correctly. Logic would dictate that someone spending the time to watch a tutorial video doesn’t know how to perform the task in question. We all await your video post to correct his technique.