CV Axle Replacement 05 Honda Odyssey
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2019
- In this video I replace the CV axles on my 2005 Honda Odyssey. I mostly work on the passenger side and do not show the removal and installation of the drivers side. However, the drivers side doesn't differ from the passenger side too much and I do go over those differences in this video.
While this video is somewhat detailed and does go over the basic steps of axle replacement it is lacking in some respects. For instance: I don't show the removal and installation of the axle seal on the drivers side or the removal and installation of the bearing seal on the passenger side (I don't believe this seal is serviceable apart from the carrier bearing). I also, do not show the removal and installation of the circlips and I do not provide torque specifications. You gotta have a repair manual.
If you chose not to replace your axle seals I would suggest using great care not to damage the seals when removing and installing your cv axles. If the seal is grazed or stabbed by the cv axles then the seal could be damaged. Also, check for leaks at the axle seal a week or two after replacing the axles. Repair leaks.
You may loose transmission fluid when replacing the axles. Check and top off your fluid using the procedure outlined in a reputable repair manual for your vehicle. If the fluid is low transmission damage could result. So be sure it the fluid level is correct after the repair.
⚠️ At the 8:02 mark in the video. Use care not to stretch rubber brake hose between the strut and body while removing axle from wheel bearing. Damage an occur.
Replace all fasteners. Use new cotter pins.
A note on beating the CV axle out of the hub bearing: I used a metal hammer in this situation. But, a plastic hammer is actually recommended as a plastic hammer will not cause damage to the lug nuts or the surfaces of the wheel bearing. If a metal hammer is used, and in some situations a metal hammer will have to be used, extreme care should be taken not to hit anything other than the cv axle. Damaging other components could result in improper mating and installation which, in a worst case scenario, could result in your tire falling off. If a lip is created, by impact with a hammer, on the bearing surface where the rim fits over it, it could result in the wheel working it's self loose over time. Note there are probably other scenarios I cannot predict that can occur as a result of damage caused by a hammer.
Also, a note of the method I used to tighten down my axle nut using the pry bar through the lug studs, this method could potentially be dangerous as the pry bar could slip off. The axle nut requires lot of torque so a lot of force will need to be used to tighten this nut. If the pry bar slips then all that "static" force is going to be transformed into "kinetic" energy. In other works you could bust your knuckles, fall and hurt yourself(if you are pushing down on the torque wrench like I am). I should not have been pushing down on the torque wrench. I've always been taught that it is safer to pull a wrench than to push a wrench. I would advise pulling he torque wrench. Either way, do this at your own risk. Be careful.
Note: In regard to the method shown to separate the outer tie rod end. It is not recommended to use this method. There is a special tool made for this called an "outer tie rod end separator". Using this tool would reduce the risk of damaging your tie rode end. link video showing this tool: • How to Replace Tie Rod...
If you do not own this tool and can't afford it the method shown in the next video is the next best thing. : • The Easy Best Way to S...
Vibration diagnosis video link:
• Vibration Under Accele...
DISCLAIMER
Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guaranty that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guaranty that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.
Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guaranty a proper repair using these techniques.
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Some of the best video work on a auto repair I have ever seen. Clear and well lit, great views of the work being done. The speaker was clear and concise and made sure he spoke into the camera so his voice wasn't muffled. I watched other videos that showed taking the strut loose but your way is much better and will not cause alignment questions I believe.
Thank you for posting this. I just changed the CV axles on my dad's 2005 Odyssey and we referenced your video several times during the job. It was very helpful.
Some comments that may help others:
Torque Hub - 242 ft-lb, steering 40 ft- lbs, lower ball 45ft-lbs.
Have someone stand on brake pedal when removing or tightening hub nut.
Harbor Freight lever style ball joint tool worked really well.
William Manley Thanks William, this will be helpful on the CV axle removal this weekend. That reminds me, I need to purchase a torque wrench for this task.
@@elgatogordo9523 You may rent it on AutoZone. Once you return the tool they will give you back your money of the rent, so it's basically is free to rent.
davidopful Cool! Just got the CV axles yesterday. Not sure, I think my son is buying me a torque wrench for my birthday 🥳 If not, Auto Zone, here I come...Thanks 👍
@@elgatogordo9523 How did it go?
@@davidopful Replaced both CV axles and the vibration is GONE! Wife is happy and she even made me my favorite dish 😁 BBQ marinated flap meat with rice and beans with ice cold Coronas 😋 My son did get me a torque wrench 👍 Next project is to replace the struts/shocks.
Thank you! Thank you! A thousand times, thank you! This is by far the clearest, easiest to follow video for working on a car I've seen. Well lit, easy to see what you are doing, and easy to follow. Changed out the passenger side axle and the wobble is gone. Woo hoo!
Right on!
Followed your instructions step by step and had it done in less than an hour. Very Helpful!
Wow! Thats really fast!
Great video. Good camera editing skills. You made it look easy! Thank you for posting this video, I feel confident that I can do this thanks to you.
Really informative video, Im gonna do this repair this weekend thanks to you.
Great vid's...I just bought a 2005 Odyssey and I am doing this change out...Thank you for posting these.
No problem at all.
For posting this video. I wish I would have listened on removing the ball joints with the other methods you recommended, almost messed up my threads and couldn't get them to tighten back in
Your video is very clear. Thanks for share you knowledge.
Very easy to follow and understand, thanks
Great job 🙏thanks for the awesome video😊👍✊️✊️
Excellent video sir! Thank you! This will absolutely help me!!!
Glad to hear it!
You made it looks so easy. I beat and beat on the tie rod and the control arm but nothing budge.
Thanks. This was very helpful.
So helpful, thankyou for making this video.
No problem
Hey gang! Just an update. Replaced both CV axles on our 06 Ody. Test drove it, and vibration is GONE! Wifey is happy and now I deserve my ice cold Coronas w/limes as a celebration 🎉
Awesome
Eso es todo canijo
Very informative and very well done. I'm not sure why 9 people gave a thumps down?
I don't no. It would help if I got an explanation. Kind of hard to fix a problem when you don't know what it is. lol
who is watching this during quarantine ? I'm ready to fix my 2005 Honda Odyssey !! Thank you
Muy buen video gracias!!!
Thanks for multi camera view.
Great video! I have a 2010 Pilot with vibration upon acceleration over 25 MPH gets worst with speed. Any chance it can be the cv Axle? I have changed front and rear suspension, front and rear sway bar links, front and rear sway bar bushings, putter tie rods and road force wheel balance nothing seems to “fix” the vibration. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Great job on replacing the CV Joint. Another method would be to place a sizeable screwdriver into one of the vent holes of the rotor resting it on the top of the caliper in order to break the CV joint wheel nut. Correct me if I’m wrong, but the advantage of removing the tie rod and ball joint will eliminate having to realign the vehicle.
Nice video. Very clear.
Do you need to clean the old grease out with say brake cleaner spray where it slides onto the spline on the transmission shaft?
What is the difference between the new and old axle? I bought 2 axles that look like the old with the ridges in it. Can I still use them to replace both sides?
Great video. Thanks
great write up and video, made job easy, do I need to get front end aligned after this job?
You shouldn't. But, if it hasn't been checked in a while then its worth checking.
Thank you for the great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you. very good video.
Great video. I am getting ready to replace the CV axles in my 2001 Odyssey. The only question I have is regarding the CV axle into the carrier (transmission side). First off, it seems odd that once the CV axle is disconnected from the wheel that it has nothing retaining it into the carrier, or at least very little that it can be "punched out". However, there is that perplexing circlip, around the bearing shaft... does that simply pop into a groove in the female side of the CV axle, and it can simply be "punched out" using the pry bar and the hammer? Does the circlip get damaged when you remove and reset the CV axle?
I believe I mentioned possibly replacing them or referencing a repair manual regarding recommended replacement. Either on the video or in the description. I cant remember. Some mmanufacturers do recommend replacing them.
🔴Thank you so much for this good video
Right here you like 👍👍👍👍
I'm literally watching this on the 4th of July.
I see you watched the video to the end. Happy 4th!
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yes. Very helpful! Bought the axle today, waiting for it to arrive. I also watched your trouble shooting vid related to this. I have a 2003 pilot with a nasty vibration after 60mph only when foot is on the gas. That vid helped a lot. I'm thinking this fix should solve the issue. It was slinging grease, so... Odds are...
Have you had a chance to make the repair?
@@BarboursAutoHelp Do you have cameras on my place? Literally fixed it today. Weird...
Easy fix and it solved the vibration problem. Thank you!
Is there an easy way to get it out if it didn't pull out the inner end piece with the rest of the cv?
I bang so hard on the axle but it did not come out. Don,t know why it stucked so hard. If i banged harder wiuld it cause any damge to the end tha hold the axle? Any beter way to take it out. Thx
First off, this is a very good video. If you are going to do the job this way, I have a suggestion. Spray down the ball joint, tie rod and end link nut and threads with some type of penetrating oil. If possible, do it the night before and again right before you do the job. They most likely have serious corrosion built up and are probably seized on really good. What tends to happen is that it takes so much torque to loosen the seized nut that it starts to turn, but it's not the nut turning off the threads, it's the nut and ball socket spinning together. Which means you will have to change your ball joint or tie-rod end, probably after you have to cut them off. And if you have to change your tie rod end, you should get an alignment. Also, most end links that are over 10 years old and in the north, will probably crumble in your hands when you try to work on them. I'm not saying not to do the job this way, but to be aware. I have seen plenty of people try this job on a Sunday, then spin a ball joint, have to cut it out and they can't get a replacement ball joint for a day and need their car for work on Monday.
Another way to do the job is to remove the whole caliper and bracket from the hub/spindle assembly. Remove the nut on the axle end. Remove the two bolts that connect the hub/spindle assembly to the lower end of the strut. And you can then tip the hub/spindle assembly forward and remove the axle that way. Make sure that when you remove the caliper assembly, that you support it somehow, like a zip tie. Don't let it hang by the brake hose. There might also be an abs wire harness that goes to the caliper. If so, you might have to remove the harness retaing bracket on the control arm. And most importantly, mark the position of the bolts that mount the spindle to the lower strut using either a scribe, paint marker, nail polish or whatever. They are eccentric bolts and if they don't go back in the same position, you will most probably have to get an alignment.
Cheers.
What do you mean by mark the position of the bolts to the strut? Are the two bolts different?
Great video. 👍
Thanks 👍
I'm getting a similar situation. I have a 1999 Mercury Villager. I was getting a huge amount of shake from the front passenger wheel. I replaced the whole CV axle on the passenger side. Problem was gone for about a month. Now tonight coming home about 50-60 MPH shake returned, and also shakes at lower speeds. When I let off gas, it stops, and then when I either hit a bump or accelerate, shake comes back, and it's the same passenger side that is shaking. CV axle seems fine, no play al all. Steering makes some noise when turning right, almost like a grind, but not really, hard to explain it. Should I look first at ball joints and tie rides? or could the steering rack cause I vibration like this?
It could be one of a few things. Especially anything that is loose. Be sure to check everything shown in the video. Never hurts to check it all.
How did you fix this issues please?
Did you change the axle to OEM to fix the whole issue?
As far as the ball joint nut goes, I have a torque wrench with a removable socket head and you can put in different size open-end wrenches that came with it.
Passenger side:
What about the clamp with the two 10mm bolts that hold the inner end from jumping out.
Also, did not remove any tie rod ends or ball joints.
Used my floor jack to hold everything in place, used a screwdriver to hold the brake/wheel assembly through the bottom strut holes. Just a different way to skin a cat.
Great video, thank you very much, just to know if the vibration that I had with this repair was finally eliminated? ... because I am having the same problem with a 2011 Accord. Thanks.
Was that a question?
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yes, sorry, it was a question. Was the vibration problem solved, replacing the CV axle? Thank you.
The vibration was corrected by replacing the axles.
Did some struts on one of these you can literally take off the cv axle by just removing the lower strut bolts…
BarboursAutoHelp ; Great video and thank you. Question. Did you remove the spline that goes into the trans housing?
Everything you see in the video is what I did.
@@BarboursAutoHelp ; Yep, I know that. When you removed the old CV axle, the spline was still in the trans. The new CV axle has a spline. So what gives?
The new cv axle goes onto the splines. Its female. The driver's side cv axle is male. The drivers side goes into the transaxle. The passenger side does not. It mounts to the splines you saw still left in the trans. The splines you saw left in the trans is not a part of the cv alxe. Does that help?
No, I did not take the splined shaft that you saw left in the transmission out. When just replacing the right cv axle you do not necessarily have to take it out.
@@BarboursAutoHelp ; Thanks so much. It was a little confusing seeing the old cv axle, female, passenger side, without a spline and the new axle with a spline. Anyway, it was a false alarm about my friends Honda Odyssey.
Well done sir
Thanks
Thanks. How long is that pry bar?
Maybe 2.5'-3' long. Never measured it to tell you the truth.
Curious to know how the Odyssey drives now that you've replaced the worn parts?
Been fine for years since this job was done.
Where did all that grease come from?
Did this repair fix the shake? I have 06 odyssey lx with same exact symptoms 121k miles.
It fixed my problem.
My issue is the inner shaft or stub axle on passenger side , the part the axle goes into that bearing makes noise I cannot find that inner shaft anywhere .
Have you tried Honda?
How could I get the lock ring? I received a CV axle I roderes but it did not include a lock ring.
Order them off line or hit the dealership up.
can you share where did you buy the Axles from? any issues so far? I'm planning to change mine
Still holding. Not certain at this point wear I got them. Been a while.
Hey man.. i have a cuestion!!!
I have a 06 odyssey vibrates /shakes bad at 60-65 under acceleration only. Tires are new. With balance. And has new motor mounts.
I noticed my boots are leaking but there no popping noise or cluncking when i turn.
Just shakes bad under load. And acceleration only at 60..65.. can a bad axl cause this?? Im planning on doing this is just im gonna be piss if doesnt resolve this.
Please help.
It could be but I'm not going to promise you that's your problem. I've got a video linked down in the description that goes over how I diagnosed my problem that sounds similar to yours. Apart from providing the videos I've made I'm not sure If I'll be of anymore help to you. I hope they lead you in the right direction. However, I never discourage anyone from having a hands on technician diagnose a problem. Its often best to and could potentially save you a bunch of money.
Not sure about the Odyssey, but this is a common problem on the Ford F150. The emergency brake is the problem, sometimes due to rust in the cable it will stick slightly and at lower speeds isn't noticeable but as the speed increases anywhere from 40mph and up you'll get the shimmy and shakes. At the higher speeds it's scary as hell. Like I said, not sure about the Odyssey but it's worth a look if you can't find anything else that could cause the problem. This drove my mechanic nuts, but the dealership knew right away what it was, and of course Ford had no recalls on the problem. Needless to say I'm no longer driving Ford, after 40 years of loyal ownership.
Why not undo the 2 strut bolts instead of the lower ball joints? Reason is: I ALWAYS have trouble getting ball joints loose... The hammer method has NEVER worked for me.
What ever works for ya. Sounds good to me.
is it necessary to replace both or just one that is bad what part number is this and which brand is good my van is 151000 mile
You can just replace the bad one. I dont have a part number.
8:21: I got a code p0420 bank 1 oxygen sensor after this passenger's side. I was banging really hard to get axle out. My pry was the tire iron bar cut in half, i wedge it between the Y and bang on it really hard. One point 8 inch piece iron got stuck the axle lip and the tranny. I hit it really hard to dislodge the axle. Do you think i could have damage the exhaust part or the catalytic converter when hitting axle out? I also changed out the 6 new spark plugs plus i did timing belt all it same time within a span of 3 days. Thanks. Do you think i need rear new oxygen sensor ?
A code p0420 means that the vehicle has detected that the catalytic converter isn't doing its job as well as it should. Usually this is caused by a faulty converter. But, you could have a leak in the exhaust system too causing this code. Odds are its a bad cat though. It will need to be diagnosed properly to confirm this though. I'd suggest having a shop check it for you. I don't have any videos outlining the diagnostic procedure for this code at this time. Other than that, hows it running?! That's awesome that you knocked all that work out. That's a tall order. Good job. Unless you hit the exhaust directly when banging the axle out I don't think the P0420 is your fault. Chances are this was a problem before you did the job.
@@BarboursAutoHelp
Thank you.
No problem
@@BarboursAutoHelp hello sir: i text my friend who is a home mechanic, he also said it was common problem for old Honda Odyssey. Anyway, I have good news: after driven 2 full tank of Costco Premium gas. The code went away on it own. The last full tank I filled up with expensive $10 fuel cleaner bought at Walmart. The full tank followed that I didn't put anything in it. I just refill with premium again yesterday morning before going to work. Anyway, on my way home, I cruised at 80 mph on freeway about 10 minutes, the check engine light went away and disappear on by itself. I was happy but still have to wait for a few more hundred miles before it goes away for good. I will save to by OEM Cat just in case it comes back. I hope i didn't jinx it. Thank you
05 Odyssey - Was hoping it was lower control arms and not the cv axle. If it happens primarily on acceleration, (definitely the CV axle.) I started with 2 new tires. Better ride but still had the bad vibration above 40 mph. So then bought 2 control arms. Installed one, much better ride.... But then...
noticed driver side axle was nearly in two pieces just prior to installing the second control arm. 😔.
It’s difficult sometimes.
what if the axle nut is crimped on to prevent the average DIYer from doing the job themselves?
I think I went over this in the video maybe. Didn't I crimp mine with a screwdriver?
Why did you unhook the tie rod end? hub assembly should just tip out of the way once the strut is unhooked.
That's the way I do it.
If you unhook the strut your alignment can change causing more expense for an alignment. A good mechanic would not unhook the strut unless they were going to do an alignment anyway.
Do you recommend Torquing down nuts to specs????
Yes
Can u Post the specs.
Don't have them. I recommend using a manual.
did you use inches tools for this car? 13:41
I sure did. 3/4"=19mm by the way. I used metric tools on other bolts.
Did you use British tools for this car?
Did the axles fix your vibe?
Yes
@@BarboursAutoHelp hello, thanks for the great video, I need to do this next week.
Just a couple of questions please:
1...is there a need to grease the part of the CV axles which go into the Transmission ?
2....is an alignment necessary after taking off the part of the tie rod which goes into the knuckle?
Unless you are replacing the seal where the axle goes into the trany you should not have to lubricate the seal. It should already be well lubricated from use. As far as the alignment, you should not have to unless you loosen the jam nut on the outer tie rod end. However, if you haven't had an alignment done in a while it's not a bad idea.
@@BarboursAutoHelp hi, thanks for your great video.
I need to change one of mine too in our 08 Odyssey, I think it's the right too.
Could you please tell me which one you you think I should buy between an Aftermarket or a Remanufactured axle please?
Which one did you use in the video, and how has it been since you did this replacement?
Thanks
I dont remember if I used remanufactured parts or not. I may have mentioned it in the description. Sometimes it can be a crapshoot new or remanufactured. Typically I've had pretty good luck either way.
thanks! but a few comments: 1.remove tie rod is not a good idea 2.mix drv/psg side and eliminate most drv side steps is no good.
What tie rod brand did you use?
Are they OEM?
Sorry, but I didn't replace the tie rod ends.
Sorry omg I meant what cv axle brand did you use?
I’m stuck either getting aftermarket or OEM.
Do you have any advice?
I used aftermarket axles. I don't remember the brand I used. It's been my experience that OE are of higher quality though.
I was looking at cardone cv axle which are way cheaper then OEM, but how did the aftermarket respond after you installed them and drove the van?
I still haven't had a problem. They did just fine.
Is $350 fair to replace this part. I was quoted this price.
Doesn't sound bad to me.
thanks
No problem
What size of the nuts
Its mentioned in the video.
Get ready for the cv to not come out. Fix it for $3.75 if you already have an ax or anything with a heavy end on it. Buy 6 feet of 1/8 wire an 2 zinc clamps. Wrap one end around the pos part that is stuck twice and then clamp it relatively tight and make a loop for the shaft of the ax with the other clamp. Stick the tool through and swing straight out. Problem gone.
What are the cost of Everything?
You'll need to price it out. It varies
Parts price depends on the brand of axle purchased, and the source. Roughly from $100 to $200 per axle is typical.
IT IS WAY EASIER TO REMOVE THE 2 TOP STRUT BOLTS instead of messing with those ball joints. Otherwise a good video.
Just did this job today. Followed your advise removing the strut bolts instead of the ball joints and it was much easier than shown in the video. Thanks!
I’ve done it a bunch of times now. Also easier if someone sits inside the car and turns the steering wheel to move the tie rod ends to help you get the axle out. Need to remove the brake line bolts and speed sensor clip too.
Alignment problems
Thanks man. You saved my day!! I replaced both side yesterday.
There's no need to do alignment using this method. More trouble, yes. Save money, also yes.
How many foot pounds
No pre notions that it was bad but it just broke on me and I am waiting on a tow truck
Sorry to hear that.
Tens Ford video ,
I would take huh loose from the strut instead then you can rotate the hub away from the vehicle it’s a lot easier to get the axle in and out
Of hub and you don’t have to remove ball joint or tie rod that way. Way faster and easier
Cannot for the life of me get the stupid tie rod out. Tried everything.
Maybe you can soak it with some penetratingly oil for a while. Come back to it with a fresh mind.
Grinder works every time
He was like I'm going to cheat with an impact. Fuckin Californian