After watching a few of your vids I was convinced to buy one of these machines. After practicing for a couple hours I sewed my first project, a phone case I was going to sew by hand. Instead of an hour or longer I did it in ten minutes. Thanks for the information and push to move forward on this machine.
That's why I ended up with one of these machines. My hands and patience were wearing thin with all the hand sewing I was doing. Best of luck with your leather working!!
Just a heads up 140/22 needles for two layers of 6-8 oz leather with 207 nylon thread. If you are putting in a welt then you need 160/23 needles with 207 nylon thread to go through 3 layers of 6-8 oz leather.
Hey Harrison Thank you for all of your videos on the Mayupai sewing machine. Your videos convinced me to buy one....it's on its way....looking forward to setting it up and using it for my leather work and other projects......I am really enjoying your videos you are a great teacher. Thanks mate.....Mark from Barry Leather (Australia)
Thanks for your information on these sewing machines. I got mine today off ebay in 10 days. I just bought the machine without stand. I plan on building one. It came with two extra bobbin spools and one bobbin holder. Open slightly damaged original box with picture on it and sanded and cleaned. It wasn't bad at all. It only came with one tensioner. But it worked fine on thin thread. Very happy with machine. Now time to add a motor! Again thanks for sharing all your tips.
To Mainley Arces Dude you do a good job of providing information and as a plus, you make me laugh...which is all good. When it comes to loctite thread locker, RED is high strength, BLUE is medium thread locker, while GREEN is after bolting as it seeps into the threads and locks is gently. Green would be good on your hand crank cam plate nut. Keep it up! ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired (I have one of these on the way)
Transelated by Google transelated. Thanks for all your instructional films about this Chinese cobbler. When I first saw it on the street in China; I had to study it. He the street commander gave me his time and explained to me thoroughly what he knew. He also gave me the address of the nearest dealer. I bought one with me home. When I came home to Norway; I had to pass it on to a repairman for adjustment. It works fine today and thanks to your instructional films; I am getting better and better acquainted with it.
I just wanted to say THANKS!! You have helped me out much more than you can imagine. Thanks for taking the time to record and post this! All the best!!
For adding a motor, go to any appliance repair shop, and it'll work if it runs. This guy has done a lot of good different videos, and has been using it, they're very nice machines when you break off all the rough edges, get it tuned, and make it your own. I've had mine a few weeks, watched half a dozen videos first, this guy's among them, got it within days of order, and I've really enjoyed having it, I work on guns, so holsters, and every man has leather goods. Once you get accustomed to it working, and get accustomed to its features, rhythm, and the balance of the stitching forces on the arms in their cams, the patch feature is perhaps the best, most useful part of this machine. I've been patching jeans for decades, a machinist and mechanic, never saw one that the needle swivels 360, you sew a patch on, swiveling the needle to follow the edges of the patch, makes a five minute job out of what took an hour on a regular arm machine. Semper Fidelis
Thanks for the info on this sewing machine! I just bought one & was having trouble getting the thread to come out the bobbin hole, then I found your vids! I'm hooked up & going now! Doing an unboxing vid for my channel that'll go up in a couple of days!
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks Video is now up. Got a link to your channel in the description. I'm just getting started with this video stuff, so it's kinda slow moving for now. But I'll get it after a few... ruclips.net/video/MkZED8IPMoA/видео.html
yesterday or the day before someone I was already subscribed to did a video about these machines, since then I've watched about 3 hours of videos on these sewing machines, most of them seem to have been your videos, so, I subscribed. I ordered the machine off Ebay, your affiliate links were out of stock, but I did order some needles and thread so hopefully you'll see a kickback from that. Thank you for all the excellent videos!
Great videos. You talked me into ordering one. One question that I haven't ran across yet "is" where can I get spare parts? The main thing I see of maybe needing is bobbin parts. If oiled the bearings and other parts look as if they'll out live me. I was plenty sceptical of this machine when I first heard of it. I have a Juki wide throat as well as a Sailrite machine. They both sew great but are bulky in a lotta ways. I've seen the old Singer cobbler machines similar to this but never one for sale. I'm looking forward to getting this thing , and will build a adjustable height rolling stand for it.
Thanks for the comment!! You can order spare parts from Bantam Saddle Tack. I had the same problem when I tried to find a old singer. That's why I ended up ordering one of these Chinese machines.
I was kind of lost setting up, then i found your video, followed your directions and I got it. Thank you very much for your video. I am sure you are helping a lot to beginners.
If You have a pretty decent magnet, that'll make a pretty good & quickly adjustable guide, I've used them on both, My Singer Patchers & Tarp Machine....& actually made on dedicated to the Tarp stitcher, by using 2 magnets I salvaged from a old microwave, these magnets have some serious attraction to things they love, in fact after just extracting a couple from a microwave, I had one laying on the floor in front of Me, & the other in My had, & in a split sec the one on the floor literally jumped at least 3-4 inches into the air pivoted 180 & come down on the one I was holding, & yes there was some unpleasant pinching, believe even a blood blister was a bonus, it hit so hard that it broke it'self in half......., anyway. I seemed to have veer off the trail abit, sorry bout dat, .where was I now...oh yeah....so I took 2 of these magnets & recessed them into about a 6" x 3" x 3/4" piece of ash, ( cant beat a nice piece of ash) so they were flush to the bottom, ( using a hole saw & chisel,,I think) & glued them in with something, but ultimately ended up with a good adjustable 6" guide, & Ya stick it about anywhere out of the way when not in use......Wheeeew,... dats enuff babbling, fingers are tired....CYa L8r Peace Out......& Beyond
Wow, that magnet has some serious attraction!! I have worked with hard drive magnets that have a good pull, but nothing that would do what yours did!! Good thing it didn't brake your hand. Thanks for the helpful tip I will add that to my next project list.
Thank you for these series of videos. It's why it bought one, and was able to set it up and use it successfully. One question I've had is how you're starting and ending your stitches? Do you begin by back stitching a few stitches, maybe like 3 times, go through the project, then end with back stitching another couple of times? And then just snip off the excess thread from both ends and bam, it's done?
You made mention in a video about the top ring. You had to heat it and bend it. Mine loses contact. Can you elaborate on the goals and how to do that please?
Your video's have been a great help in dialing in my machine but now I can't get the tension to adjust on my machine no matter what I do? Any suggestions. Thanks
Hi, just wanted to say thanks. Watched your video on installing a motor, and thought I would give it a try. My way was a bit different than how you did it, as I suppose they all are. In any case, it worked out great for me, and you were the inspiration so thank you. Just as a note, which may be of no interest, but I bought the motor from ebay for about $22. I got the 1.5 amp rather than the 1 amp and am glad I did as I am not sure the 1 amp would have been strong enough. Thought I would mention that in case you get questions, which I suspect you do. Have a great day and keep up the good work.
Do you need 2 tensioners? First off thanks for your videos, I'm considering buying one of these off Amazon and have been watching all the videos I can before taking the plunge. That said I discovered the 2 that I'm looking at on Amazon.ca that qualify for Prime shipping only have 1 tensioner. I did find a website selling an additional tensioner you can add to your machine but they say it's just so that you can use one for light thread and one for heavy thread, I'm not sure if this is right as a lot of videos seem to show people using both tensioners. I'm guessing I'm not the only one with this question so I thought I'd ask you. Thanks in advance!
I have been able to sew with 277 thread. The largest needle i have fit in it is a Groz-Beckert 134 - Size 140 / 22 - D Point - a.k.a. 134 KKD, 135x8 TRI - 10 Pack NDL-7181. It does not have a flat, so you have to orient the eye before tightening the needle hold down. Now the reason this is the largest size i’ve been able to fit in it is because the hole on the bed. I do have some 25 ga needles that i want to use, since the 22; even tho it works, its a bit small for the 277. The hole made by the 22 is a bit small, and i had to use both tensioners maxed out to get it to pull the knot into the leather. This weekend i will be enlarging the hole on the bed to see if i can get the 25 in there. As far as different needle sizes, you don’t need to mod the machine. Just loosen up the needle bar at the top. Put the machine on the down stroke as far as it will go, then adjust the needle bar until you can just feel the needle comming out of the bottom. I will be making a video of it this weekend. Thanks a lot for your info mainly. You have been a great resource on this journey with the shoe patcher. My goal at this moment is to push the limit of the machine and run 3xx thread on it. Right now with 4 pieces of 8-9 oz veg tan i’m flexing the frame a bit( a reinforcement under the bed is on the list). But what i see as the major challange is going to be the bobin tension. Hopefullu i fix this with an external bobin contraption that i’m conjuring up. The way insee it is a hole in the shuttle and gear to fit the thread and use an empty bobin in the shuttle to take up the space. The thread would come tru the bottom of the bed, tru the gear, into the middle of the shuttle, then tru the normal routing with the bobbin in there.
Holy Moly!! That's a bunch of really good info, thanks for sharing!! Keep me posted on the new mods. Are you joined up with facebook.com/groups/1646031288779869/ Facebook group? If not you should, there is a large gathering of folks who run these machines and they would love to have you as a member.
Mainely Acres Well, a bit of an update: After educating myself on how a lockstitch is created, the larger bobbin idea is not going to be as simple. I just will have to machine a new “bed extension” to fit a larger bobbin and shuttle. Now, about the needle size: I took some jewerlers files and opened up the channel on the bed carefully until I could fit a 25 needle. Also had to enlarge the hole on the cover plate a bit. Then i cleaned the sharp edges with 1000 grit sand paper. It worked like a champ. I’m goint to get a hold of some 346 thread and test my luck on this. I’m pretty sure it’s going to work. But i don’t see it been as practical. This is because with the 25 needle(diamond point) it takes a considerable amount of force to get it to go tru 2 layers of 8-9 oz veg tan. Once it goes tru, on the upstroke of the needle t have to help the presser foot to push the material down, because even with the springs as tight as they will go, is not enough to keep the foot down. I also tried punching all the holes on one pass, and then comming back with the tread on the needle, and this worked much better. And then we are back to the bobbin capacity issue. I don’t see myself getting more then a few feet of 346 on this bobbin.
Great video! Thank you for all your work. I just ordered one of these machines and was wondering if you could put a link up where you buy needles for this machine. Does it take standard leather sewing needles that you can get anywhere?
ok man, you seem ot be the foremost authority on these machines. Still debugging mine, and it keeps breaking the thread while im stitching. IVe chamfered some of the feed holes but ti seems ot break right abve the bobbin carrier.
Thank you for the response! And the video. Another question please, can you share the dimension of the groove you machined on the flywheel? I am afraid to go ahead and machine a groove because of a section of the wheel that is thinner (where the channel for the upper arm bearing runs). I’m afraid if I carve too deep, it might jeopardize the strength of the wheel in said section. If my measurements are correct, The channel depth is 11mm, which leaves only 5mm of full steel on the front side. The thinnest section then is about 4.4mm. I wonder how you did yours. Thank you!
I could not find a definitive answer to your question online, so I will adjust my machine to the longest and shortest stitch length and measure both. This should give you a ballpark idea because all these machines coming from China are made differently every time.
Thanks. I already found out that I can do safely 6mm if my walking foot pressure is adjusted correctly. Otherwise I was getting inconsistent stitches lengths.
Good video, thank you for all the information. I have one of this but my presser foot is going up and down but it doesn’t push the leather forward neither backwards. Do you how to fix this? Thank you in advance. O by the way my name is julio Rocha.
Great Videos and a fantastic font of knowledge on this strange machine. I have ordered one after watching your videos, but want to buy spare bobbins and needles but this contraption not having a serial number or name I would not know where to start looking? Can you point me in the right direction or ebay item number or even compatible parts. Thanks in advance and keep up the good work.
Hi my name is Mayriest i love watching your video ,i would like to purchase one of your spool thread holder , am living in winter haven florida could you please let me know how to purchase,the spool holder thank you.for sharing your video.
I fighting my machine currently. It’s I can’t get a single stitch or pick up the bottom thread properly because as my needle goes down and bottoms, the shuttle picks up the top thread, rotates, and then wraps my top thread under the shuttle assembly and carrier. Maybe my needle is coming down too low? I can’t figure out my issue.
Thanks for the swift reply, My problem is that I am in the UK, and so unable to get them sent from the States, I went on your site to buy your spool holder but again it said you do not ship to UK so had to go without! Do you know the name or model of the bobbin? Or a machine that takes the same one so I can source it that way? Thanks again for your valuable info.
Here is Matt's eBay store: stores.ebay.com/Bantam-Saddle-Tack, I believe he ships worldwide. As for me, I don't ship worldwide because of the hassle and cost of shipping. Here is an eBayer that makes thread stands for these machines, maybe they ship out of the US: www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Stand-for-China-Shoe-leather-Patcher-Sewing-Machine-Made-in-USA/132578437990?hash=item1ede4a6b66:g:oe4AAOSwdRpazocc.
I use a thread stand like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Single-Spool-Thread-Stand-For-Sewing-Embroidery-King-Cone-Holder/321865387875?hash=item4af0ac0f63:g:E18AAOSwymxVLDQP:sc:USPSFirstClass!04915!US!-1 when I am not going portable.
I have loosened my presser foot as far as i can without the nut coming off and theres still way too much pressure on the presser foot, do i need to find a new part thats a longer screw?? Or am i doing something else wrong
The only way to fix that if you already have it adjusted as far down as it will go is to lighten the presser foot spring. That involves removing coils and I would not recommend that.
My shuttle assebly keeps locking up after 2 or three turns. Ive watched tons of vids but i cant figure it out. Do you think it just needs to be oiled down in the gear area?
The thread issue is ether a timing issue or a needle bar depth issue. Check out Q&A #1 and #4. Now for the leather not moving issue... It could be your stitch adjustment screw is too loose or too tight or something was not put together correctly in the sewing head. Check out this video for help: ruclips.net/video/2tlT2prY8qg/видео.html
Hi I noticed these machines are sold from multiple outlets at varying costs. Is there much variation in the versions sold by different distributors that you are aware of or should we just buy the best priced? Do they generally come with a spare bobbin or two?
I bought my machine from Bantam Saddle Tack here in the USA, but all the machines are pretty much the same. Some are just in better shape when they arrive.
hi harrison i did evrything right i put it on 12 evrything when in like it suppose to even put it on 9 and it was alittle bit out i maded it flush, at firts it was picking the bobbin thread but the uprer thread kept breaking so it got jam so i took the shuttle bed out, and the case where the bobbin seats the one with the gear was brocking, so i put the other one on now it dosent pick up the bobbing thread but the hook from the bobbing picks up the uper thread and wraps it on the bottom of the bobbing . thank you hope you can help me . i got 12 pouches to finiish i been doin ti by hand but iam 72 and thats getting old i mean doin it by hand thanks again atlease for lisening. if you have any questiong on electrical just let me no ive donit for 60 yrs
I'm having an issue with my bobbin thread not catching and coming back up through the needle hole on the bobbin. After I finally got it to pull through once, I can not sew past a single stitch without breaking the main thread and it doesn't appear the underside stitch is happening at all. The tension spring on the bobbin carrier was exceptionally tight (couldn't pull thread without breaking it) in both the first and second hole. I adjusted the spring, but what is the proper tension it should hold (ie does the the thread come out slowly if I suspend the bobbin and carrier by the thread or should it only come out if actually pulling on the thread)? Also what is the proper needle depth adjustment? When it first arrived the needle barely entered the needle hole in the bobbin cover, so how deep should it go into this? Thank you for the informative videos!
+Rob J Perhaps Mainley Arces can answer with better information than I can. I have found this hand crank machine on youtube and have one coming. Other Mainley Acres videos go into information regarding the bobbin and bobbin carrier. Using a dermal with a sanding drum attached, he cleaned the inside of the carrier as this area was tight or rough casting, perhaps both. I believe the second hole works best for smaller thread, the hole closer to the hook works better for larger thread. I have a commercial Juki lock-stitch single needle. Timing the bobbing carrier hook to the needles eye is crucial. He has a video that shows this. With the cover open, turning clockwise slowly, after the needle hit bottom and starts back up, is when the thread is held by the material, its at this point the thread creates a loop on the bobbin case side just as the hook comes around. The hook should almost touch the needle and the hook should be catching the loop as it comes around, about 1mm above the top of the needles eye. This way, as both move, the timing is correct. As it advances, the loop is formed, the hook grabs the thread as the needle continues upward. This is timing...something that needs to be checked each time you install a different needle, for thread size of replacing a broken needle. Look at videos: Sewing machine timing. Make sure you have the correct needle as the main thread can break if scraping metal, too far down, bobbing carrier incorrect position, tension too tight, top tension to tight, thread groove in needle not facing away from bobbin, etc. As for bobbin tension, try to adjust the tension with the thread you are using, place into the right hole, then holding it, the thread should come out with slight tension. Now, anyone who does this will tell you to practice on the same material you are going to use. After making a few complete stitches (If Able), but cut it loose and inspect it. Both the top and bottom stitch should look correct, if not adjust it tighter on top if top stitch looks looser than you want. Same with the bottom as this locks the stitch. I guess, loosen it up, practice, adjust as needed, repeat. This is the cross we bare, for anyone with a sewing machine has to go thru this procedure. Sorry to be long, but passing along info is part of learning. I am a retired ASE Master Tech who work on vehicles for 30+ years. Machines are in my wheel-house, but sewing requires some practice, adjustment and lubrication. I am sewing bucket seats in 1.3m leather, same for covering console and door panels for 67 C10 pick up. The Juki works well, but I installed a speed reducing pulley set under it. Otherwise, it runs like a weed-eater with turbo. I can't get the longer stitches I want in thick leather for french seams for a lifetime of seat use, so getting one of these. Hope this helps and makes sense. Best of luck!
Hmm, I guess I just needed a bit more time to get through more of your videos. Found my answer for the bobbin feed problem on your other video. Now to play around with tensions to get this thing operating right.
@@robj2083 if you haven't got it running yet, also try adjusting your stitch length, in addition to the top and/or bottom tension. If the tension is too high and your stitches are too small, it will break your thread left and right.
Thanks guys! After monkeying with it for far too long (bobbin timing correct, smoothed and lubed all metal on metal, etc) I took a couple days away frustrated. When I came back I was wondering why I never lowered the entire needle tube assembly. When I adjusted it down flush with the top of the front cylinder, the one that the presser foot is connected to, it worked like a champ. Playing with the bobbin tensioner, I found my particular machine likes a lighter tension for regular thread than the default so a little tweaking with a jewlers driver fixed that. I also rounded the edges of the tension spring slightly with 600 grit paper during the smoothing process.
Sir, I purchased my cobbler shoe patching machine and made all adjustments, lubed it up and got the needle to pickup the bobbin thread, but when I start sewing the first two stitches the top thread break off like its being torn in the bobbin are, do you have any idea to fix this, I have cleaned and polished the shuttle for the bobbin and bobbin its self. I'm at a lose Sir can you help me.
Thank you Sir, and I found the issue, I was using to large of a thread and to small of a needle, so I need to get a larger needle for the thread that I want to use which is a T210 or T270, and that thread size requires a 25/220, so thanks for the help.
I am sorry it has taken me a while to get back to you, I am a busy man. The largest thread I have used is a T-135 as stated in my last comment to you, so I am not sure about using the larger thread/needle combos. I was told by the distributor that these machines will not handle a needle larger than a 22/140, but it would be nice to order a larger needle to see if that's true. Let me know if you can get the 25/220 needle to work with the T270.
No problem Sir, and your right, they don't make a needle that size that fits this machine, so as you said I'm going with the T135 and a 22/140 needle, and just except the facts LOL , thanks for all the info you put out there for use Chinese cobblers LOL ;)
I need help I just bought the machine I set up a base for it everything was working fine until I took the wheel crank off and oiled it. Now the machine won’t crank for more than half a turn either way,
First thanks. The bobbin doesn't catch the needle thread or/and its really messy on the bottom. Ive broken two bobbin springs already and got 2 more. Ive sanded down the parts but that still doesn't work. Its now catching and sometimes wont crank thru ......
I have three videos on the topic of "The bobbin doesn't catch the needle thread": ruclips.net/video/GuWxdsxmX_c/видео.html ruclips.net/video/YjdcY2ppxxM/видео.html ruclips.net/video/VagtDdcenwI/видео.html If none of these videos helps with your problem feel free to send me another message.
I’m still having problems getting the thread to catch. After setting the hand crank to noon position and realigned the bobbin holder, I’ve cranked the handle and it does send the needle down but doesn’t pick the bobbin thread. It seems to catch on the inner lip of the well where the assembly is and then snaps the thread. Am I doing something wrong? I’m using upholstery thread, should I just use nylon?
+Michael Furukawa Hope I can help, but each machine has its' issues. Drilling or filling is needed in some places to keep you thread from catching. Make sure the needle is facing the correct way. There is a long grove for the thread to hide when going into the material. This groove faces away from the machine, so thread goes from left to right in eyelet. Once down, the thread is held by the material and create a loop. At this point the bobbing carrier's hook rotates into the loop. If this is not working this way, it is out of time. This is a simple machine, but with crank handle at 12 "O" clock, place the bobbin carrier into the machine at the 6 "O" clock position facing you. This is timing and has to be check, tension changed with new needled, different thread size, material change, etc. It all make a difference. For other sewing tips, look for "Cechaflo" on youtube. He has a video where he files and drills larger holes while placing a roller wheel on where the pressor foot was. Won't work on this machine, but put an eye on every part and go slow to check movement and contact of very part. You'll figure it out. Blessings.
If it catches on the lip you might need to grind open the hole a little bit - I had to when I got mine since when I'd send the needle down it would basically rub against the hole every time.
Can get my machine operating for a few feet but ultimately keep running into the issue where my bottom thread breaks. I've tried backing the tension off on the shuttle and also not winding the bobbin tight. Appears the bobbin itself is getting stuck on the shuttle. Gets snagged from spinning within the shuttle
Think I just found the issue. Outside perimeter of the bobbin had some rough metal spots that were catching on the inside of the shuttle causing it to snag up. Sanded the bobbin down with some high grit sand paper and it now spins freely with no snags
Where can I buy replacement parts? I received my bobbin shuttle without the flat spring and the seller on amazon I got mine from is no longer in business. You mention you broke yours so where did you get a new one?
Hi there, i bought one of those also because my hands were out of juice for hand sewing bigger jobs. I was wondering if there is a way of feeding the bottom line with a longer thread... it has small capacity and i am thinking of fixing a way of making a continous feed from the bottom. What is your thoughts about this??? Thank you for the videos
Alright I posted your question in a group I am in and I got two responses. 1 Short answer no. Long answer yes but the amount of time, knowledge, effort and engineering needed to accomplish it outweighs the initial cost of the machine. 2 I'm thinking of putting in a slightly enlarged pin with a hollow center for the thread to run up from the bottom. I was thinking of a same kind of solution. Feeding the bobbin from underneath through the center.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks my best idea was a kind like the second. A small hole on tge side of the machine and the thread loops the bobbin only for a bit of drag. The bobbin will work like a pulley. Can you picture this?
I think I am picking up what your putting down. You may need a spring to be able to adjust the tension, but it sounds like a winner. If you do that mod, let me know how it comes out.
Hi there, thanks for this tutorial. I just got my crank sewing machine but can get the handle to turn and can’t get the pressing foot to rotate. I have message the seller on eBay but no response. Please can you help in letting me know of anything regarding how to sort the machine out? Thanks in advance.
This video is for you: ruclips.net/video/XHv6kcA6DyM/видео.html. If you still have trouble with your machine feel free to send a comment and I can help via video chat
I love mine and thks for all the info ! You did an amazing job on the video ! Mine only has one tension. I'll keep in touch with you. My name is Eddie Perez from Taylor Texas. I do auto upholstery and leather work. Est. 1993
When I use the machine most of the top stitches will be fine but every few stitches in the top will be really loose. on the bottom side all looks fine and tight. What could be the problem (apart of me not knowing ;-))
It could be a couple of issues: 1st Your bobbin or bobbin shuttle may not be smooth where they make contact with each other. 2nd You may need to match the tension so that the top and bottom are the same.
I have to ask do you think looking back would you still have bought the kit from bantom saddle for the 229.00 was it worth it. or is it cheaper to buy the machine from amozon and add the rest of the bobins and thread fro cheaper
That's a damn good question... I still think the package deal from Bantam Saddle Tack was the best deal for me at that time. I say that because when I ordered my machine I did not have three years of experience running it or others to turn to for help. I needed a machine that would be ready to go out of the box. If I were to order a machine today, I would go with the cheap-o because I have the know-how to fix it when it arrives broken. I hope that was helpful
The main problem I'm having with my machine is making straight stitches. I really concentrate and even make a reference line on the leather, but the machine doesn't seem to go as straight as most of the videos I watch. I this the norm or do I have a problem that can be corrected ?
+fsa1946 There are sewing machine needles that "Do" sew slight off creating a 45* angle / slight side-ways stitch. There is great information at Thethreadexchange.com Go there, right side, hover over "Needles", you get a drop box, click on needle buying guide. It has a legend for needle letters and the stitches you will get. These is a lot more information to be found in different areas. I am a retired ASE Master Tech who fixed vehicles, not into sewing, except I do my own stuff, so I had to learn. Marking your top plate, the one that swivels will help. If handy, drill a hole and fabricate a "Stop" plate to run you material against it as to have a third hand. Its' called a guide plate. Is the presser foot straight, as it can move in the cylinder. Even with electric running slow, I find holding front and rear to "Steer" the material thru helps a bunch. Mu Juki commercial lock-stitch runs wide open around 10,000 per second. So, I put a 14" pulley to machine, set screw to shaft, 3" pulley to motor, now it runs way slower, but requires time. Put someone on the crank for you, or drive it with a good motor and speed control...plus practice.
I had this problem - it turns out my presser foot was off-kilter so one edge of the presser foot would touch the plate but the other Edge wouldn't which would make what I was selling on sort of veer sideways as it sewed. So I ground it down so they're both touching the plate now, while still making certain to keep the grooves, and it sewed straight after that. Of course figuring out how to keep my upper thread from breaking is a whole nother problem which I have not solved...
@@wellwords Great catch on un-equal presser foot pressure. I will inspect this closely as it makes sense. After years of working on machinery, reading wear marks, noting witness marks and the understanding the machining on this component may not be perfect to contact the material equally would explain the slight side-twist to the stitch. I have boxes of "Plastic Gauge" which is used to measure thickness. Adjusting the presser foot up, will create marks on one side, with less on the other side, this would tell me that you are correct. Using a thin material on one side and then the other may also produce the same results. Either way, have equal pressure or contact is the goal. Words, Well spoken, well words! Thank you my friend!
@@wellwords I found this on my machine as well, good catch "wellwords". I used a simple trick with a zip lock bag. I folded it over, so 4 layers, then drop the pressor foot down on it. After tugging on the bag a little, it left marks only on the right side. I removed the pressure foot and placed it in the vise on the edge so I could attach a torpedo level with magnet. Once straight or plumb, I place the live across the teeth and could see which was it was leaning. I used a large crescent wrench across the entire foot and slightly moved it to level. I attached with small metric bolts with hex heads, but repeated my test. Now the marks left are even on both sides and regardless of how long the stitch is, it now sews straight. Great idea. I made a simple 2X4 wood stand to clamp to my Juki table with a "C" clamp. After a few looks, I figure out I can use some scrap metal, bar, tube and linkage to make a pressor foot lifter using my knee. I don't have a facebook account, but my do that to show Mainly Acres the lifter info.
Hi I have a Teken patcher 29, Singer copy, it stitches fine on thin leather, but doesnt catch at all on thicker leather. Does the height adjustment on the back has anything to do with it. Any help would be great as we are novice cobblers.
Entiendo completamente tu frustración de que las instrucciones que envían en inglés no ayudan al éter. Por eso comencé estos videos. Los fabricantes chinos no ofrecen mucha ayuda en estas máquinas.
My question to you is, how do i get my thread tighter once I’m stitching. I’ve got it all up in running ( thanks your videos) so every time i start stitching I’ve got it at the right length and everything. I start stitching and i keep having extra thread on top of my loops. Like it isn’t getting tight as I’m stitching. I need it to be smooth on the surface with the thread but I’m getting loops or extra thread on top to where it looks messy. How do i tighten that up so it will look good.
So the mess is happening on the top of the sewing project? If so you need to adjust the tension on the bobbin. If your using the hole furthest away from the bobbin spring and it still not tight enough you might want to switch to a thicker thread.
Yes it’s coming from on top. So when i sew instead of the thread getting tight against the fabric it’s leaves little loops up top. So it doesn’t look as smooth. Is it because of the bobbin or does something need to be tighter up top on the sewing machine?
Make sure to check out all three videos on that topic: ruclips.net/video/GuWxdsxmX_c/видео.html ruclips.net/video/YjdcY2ppxxM/видео.html ruclips.net/video/VagtDdcenwI/видео.html
imtheworst2011 How do I replace a needle? Also how do I make sure it will pick up the bobbin thread? I’ve had my machine for a while and I got so frustrated that I haven’t worked on it for a week.
I bought one, pressure foot tends to try and walk the leather while the needle is through the material, in turn the material doesn’t walk at all, even when trying to do it by hand I just can’t seem to get it. My stitches end up on top of each other and it causes a birds nest inside the bobbin. I’ve tried playing with the adjustable screws, no luck. Any help with getting that walking foot to actually walk the material so I can actually stitch things together? Ps: I’ve only tried sewing a single layer just to get the hang of it, haven’t even attempted putting two pieces together yet. This is an open question for anyone who may have some help, TIA
After watching a few of your vids I was convinced to buy one of these machines. After practicing for a couple hours I sewed my first project, a phone case I was going to sew by hand. Instead of an hour or longer I did it in ten minutes. Thanks for the information and push to move forward on this machine.
That's why I ended up with one of these machines. My hands and patience were wearing thin with all the hand sewing I was doing. Best of luck with your leather working!!
For straight line stitching you can use a spring clamp and a small piece of 1/2" angle iron to make a fence like you would have on a band saw.
Awesome tip!!
Hey there! I remember you having a whole bunch more super helpful videos about this machine but i can’t find them on this channel anymore ;(
They are all still there
Just a heads up 140/22 needles for two layers of 6-8 oz leather with 207 nylon thread. If you are putting in a welt then you need 160/23 needles with 207 nylon thread to go through 3 layers of 6-8 oz leather.
Hey Harrison
Thank you for all of your videos on the Mayupai sewing machine. Your videos convinced me to buy one....it's on its way....looking forward to setting it up and using it for my leather work and other projects......I am really enjoying your videos you are a great teacher.
Thanks mate.....Mark from Barry Leather (Australia)
Thank you for stopping by and leaving a comment!! If you need some help in setting up feel free to comment away.
Thanks for your information on these sewing machines. I got mine today off ebay in 10 days. I just bought the machine without stand. I plan on building one. It came with two extra bobbin spools and one bobbin holder. Open slightly damaged original box with picture on it and sanded and cleaned. It wasn't bad at all. It only came with one tensioner. But it worked fine on thin thread. Very happy with machine. Now time to add a motor! Again thanks for sharing all your tips.
Thank you for commenting!! If you need any help with adding a motor feel free to send me a comment. Always happy to help.
To Mainley Arces Dude you do a good job of providing information and as a plus, you make me laugh...which is all good. When it comes to loctite thread locker, RED is high strength, BLUE is medium thread locker, while GREEN is after bolting as it seeps into the threads and locks is gently. Green would be good on your hand crank cam plate nut. Keep it up!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired (I have one of these on the way)
Thanks again for those helpful tips!!
Hi, Harrison! Thanks for all the info about my Chinese cobbler. You Sir, are our Maine source of training. Blessings!
Thank you and blessings to you as well
Transelated by Google transelated.
Thanks for all your instructional films about this Chinese cobbler. When I first saw it on the street in China; I had to study it. He the street commander gave me his time and explained to me thoroughly what he knew. He also gave me the address of the nearest dealer. I bought one with me home. When I came home to Norway; I had to pass it on to a repairman for adjustment. It works fine today and thanks to your instructional films; I am getting better and better acquainted with it.
I just wanted to say THANKS!! You have helped me out much more than you can imagine. Thanks for taking the time to record and post this! All the best!!
Glad I could help!
For adding a motor, go to any appliance repair shop, and it'll work if it runs. This guy has done a lot of good different videos, and has been using it, they're very nice machines when you break off all the rough edges, get it tuned, and make it your own. I've had mine a few weeks, watched half a dozen videos first, this guy's among them, got it within days of order, and I've really enjoyed having it, I work on guns, so holsters, and every man has leather goods. Once you get accustomed to it working, and get accustomed to its features, rhythm, and the balance of the stitching forces on the arms in their cams, the patch feature is perhaps the best, most useful part of this machine. I've been patching jeans for decades, a machinist and mechanic, never saw one that the needle swivels 360, you sew a patch on, swiveling the needle to follow the edges of the patch, makes a five minute job out of what took an hour on a regular arm machine. Semper Fidelis
That's good to hear, thank you for sharing!!
Thank you. Having a look at this sewing machine.
Thanks for the info on this sewing machine! I just bought one & was having trouble getting the thread to come out the bobbin hole, then I found your vids! I'm hooked up & going now! Doing an unboxing vid for my channel that'll go up in a couple of days!
Sweet, I look forward to checking out that video when you get it uploaded.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks Video is now up. Got a link to your channel in the description. I'm just getting started with this video stuff, so it's kinda slow moving for now. But I'll get it after a few... ruclips.net/video/MkZED8IPMoA/видео.html
yesterday or the day before someone I was already subscribed to did a video about these machines, since then I've watched about 3 hours of videos on these sewing machines, most of them seem to have been your videos, so, I subscribed.
I ordered the machine off Ebay, your affiliate links were out of stock, but I did order some needles and thread so hopefully you'll see a kickback from that.
Thank you for all the excellent videos!
Awesome, thank you for letting me know about the links!!
Great videos. You talked me into ordering one. One question that I haven't ran across yet "is" where can I get spare parts? The main thing I see of maybe needing is bobbin parts. If oiled the bearings and other parts look as if they'll out live me. I was plenty sceptical of this machine when I first heard of it. I have a Juki wide throat as well as a Sailrite machine. They both sew great but are bulky in a lotta ways. I've seen the old Singer cobbler machines similar to this but never one for sale. I'm looking forward to getting this thing , and will build a adjustable height rolling stand for it.
Thanks for the comment!! You can order spare parts from Bantam Saddle Tack. I had the same problem when I tried to find a old singer. That's why I ended up ordering one of these Chinese machines.
I was kind of lost setting up, then i found your video, followed your directions and I got it. Thank you very much for your video. I am sure you are helping a lot to beginners.
Thank you for your support!!
If You have a pretty decent magnet, that'll make a pretty good & quickly adjustable guide, I've used them on both, My Singer Patchers & Tarp Machine....& actually made on dedicated to the Tarp stitcher, by using 2 magnets I salvaged from a old microwave, these magnets have some serious attraction to things they love, in fact after just extracting a couple from a microwave, I had one laying on the floor in front of Me, & the other in My had, & in a split sec the one on the floor literally jumped at least 3-4 inches into the air pivoted 180 & come down on the one I was holding, & yes there was some unpleasant pinching, believe even a blood blister was a bonus, it hit so hard that it broke it'self in half......., anyway. I seemed to have veer off the trail abit, sorry bout dat, .where was I now...oh yeah....so I took 2 of these magnets & recessed them into about a 6" x 3" x 3/4" piece of ash, ( cant beat a nice piece of ash) so they were flush to the bottom, ( using a hole saw & chisel,,I think) & glued them in with something, but ultimately ended up with a good adjustable 6" guide, & Ya stick it about anywhere out of the way when not in use......Wheeeew,... dats enuff babbling, fingers are tired....CYa L8r
Peace Out......& Beyond
Wow, that magnet has some serious attraction!! I have worked with hard drive magnets that have a good pull, but nothing that would do what yours did!! Good thing it didn't brake your hand. Thanks for the helpful tip I will add that to my next project list.
Thank you for these series of videos. It's why it bought one, and was able to set it up and use it successfully. One question I've had is how you're starting and ending your stitches? Do you begin by back stitching a few stitches, maybe like 3 times, go through the project, then end with back stitching another couple of times? And then just snip off the excess thread from both ends and bam, it's done?
You got it!!
You made mention in a video about the top ring. You had to heat it and bend it. Mine loses contact. Can you elaborate on the goals and how to do that please?
Your video's have been a great help in dialing in my machine but now I can't get the tension to adjust on my machine no matter what I do? Any suggestions. Thanks
good informative vid
Thanks!!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks. Watched your video on installing a motor, and thought I would give it a try. My way was a bit different than how you did it, as I suppose they all are. In any case, it worked out great for me, and you were the inspiration so thank you. Just as a note, which may be of no interest, but I bought the motor from ebay for about $22. I got the 1.5 amp rather than the 1 amp and am glad I did as I am not sure the 1 amp would have been strong enough. Thought I would mention that in case you get questions, which I suspect you do. Have a great day and keep up the good work.
Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience.
Do you need 2 tensioners? First off thanks for your videos, I'm considering buying one of these off Amazon and have been watching all the videos I can before taking the plunge. That said I discovered the 2 that I'm looking at on Amazon.ca that qualify for Prime shipping only have 1 tensioner. I did find a website selling an additional tensioner you can add to your machine but they say it's just so that you can use one for light thread and one for heavy thread, I'm not sure if this is right as a lot of videos seem to show people using both tensioners. I'm guessing I'm not the only one with this question so I thought I'd ask you. Thanks in advance!
I have heard of people getting away with one, but I think two is better. That's not set in stone, just my opinion.
Great video, I just came across these videos, am watching them, gonna get me one of these.
Best of luck on your new purchase, if you need any help feel free to comment.
I have been able to sew with 277 thread. The largest needle i have fit in it is a Groz-Beckert 134 - Size 140 / 22 - D Point - a.k.a. 134 KKD, 135x8 TRI - 10 Pack
NDL-7181. It does not have a flat, so you have to orient the eye before tightening the needle hold down. Now the reason this is the largest size i’ve been able to fit in it is because the hole on the bed. I do have some 25 ga needles that i want to use, since the 22; even tho it works, its a bit small for the 277. The hole made by the 22 is a bit small, and i had to use both tensioners maxed out to get it to pull the knot into the leather. This weekend i will be enlarging the hole on the bed to see if i can get the 25 in there.
As far as different needle sizes, you don’t need to mod the machine. Just loosen up the needle bar at the top. Put the machine on the down stroke as far as it will go, then adjust the needle bar until you can just feel the needle comming out of the bottom. I will be making a video of it this weekend.
Thanks a lot for your info mainly. You have been a great resource on this journey with the shoe patcher.
My goal at this moment is to push the limit of the machine and run 3xx thread on it. Right now with 4 pieces of 8-9 oz veg tan i’m flexing the frame a bit( a reinforcement under the bed is on the list). But what i see as the major challange is going to be the bobin tension. Hopefullu i fix this with an external bobin contraption that i’m conjuring up. The way insee it is a hole in the shuttle and gear to fit the thread and use an empty bobin in the shuttle to take up the space. The thread would come tru the bottom of the bed, tru the gear, into the middle of the shuttle, then tru the normal routing with the bobbin in there.
Holy Moly!! That's a bunch of really good info, thanks for sharing!! Keep me posted on the new mods. Are you joined up with facebook.com/groups/1646031288779869/ Facebook group? If not you should, there is a large gathering of folks who run these machines and they would love to have you as a member.
Mainely Acres
Well, a bit of an update: After educating myself on how a lockstitch is created, the larger bobbin idea is not going to be as simple. I just will have to machine a new “bed extension” to fit a larger bobbin and shuttle.
Now, about the needle size: I took some jewerlers files and opened up the channel on the bed carefully until I could fit a 25 needle. Also had to enlarge the hole on the cover plate a bit. Then i cleaned the sharp edges with 1000 grit sand paper. It worked like a champ. I’m goint to get a hold of some 346 thread and test my luck on this. I’m pretty sure it’s going to work. But i don’t see it been as practical.
This is because with the 25 needle(diamond point) it takes a considerable amount of force to get it to go tru 2 layers of 8-9 oz veg tan. Once it goes tru, on the upstroke of the needle t have to help the presser foot to push the material down, because even with the springs as tight as they will go, is not enough to keep the foot down.
I also tried punching all the holes on one pass, and then comming back with the tread on the needle, and this worked much better.
And then we are back to the bobbin capacity issue. I don’t see myself getting more then a few feet of 346 on this bobbin.
Thanks so much for this tutorial. I now have confidence in buying one of this. But please which direction does the machine sew? Thanks again.
It has a rotatable head, so it can sewing in all directions.
Mainely Acres Thank you very much.
Thank you so much for this video. Really helping me.
the spring materiel.. we call that Top shelf Chinesium
wood workers use a peel and stick ruler you can get and put on the sewing machine.
That's a awesome tip, thanks!!
Thanks. All set up.
Great video! Thank you for all your work. I just ordered one of these machines and was wondering if you could put a link up where you buy needles for this machine. Does it take standard leather sewing needles that you can get anywhere?
Here is a video where I talk about the needles I use, just skip into the video by 4 minutes. ruclips.net/video/2DpVUhbATYQ/видео.html
ok man, you seem ot be the foremost authority on these machines. Still debugging mine, and it keeps breaking the thread while im stitching. IVe chamfered some of the feed holes but ti seems ot break right abve the bobbin carrier.
My latest video should help you out, if not I do offer one on one video help if you still need help. ruclips.net/video/XJAhqb9tNpc/видео.html
Thank you for the response! And the video. Another question please, can you share the dimension of the groove you machined on the flywheel? I am afraid to go ahead and machine a groove because of a section of the wheel that is thinner (where the channel for the upper arm bearing runs). I’m afraid if I carve too deep, it might jeopardize the strength of the wheel in said section. If my measurements are correct, The channel depth is 11mm, which leaves only 5mm of full steel on the front side. The thinnest section then is about 4.4mm. I wonder how you did yours. Thank you!
I will grab my dads calipers and measure the grove for you. Thank you for your comment!!
Stitch groover my friend
Hi. To expand on question 3. What is the largest size of the stitch you can achieve? Are there some modes that allow 5mm stitches? Thank you
I don't know, but I can find out. I will get back to you soon
I could not find a definitive answer to your question online, so I will adjust my machine to the longest and shortest stitch length and measure both. This should give you a ballpark idea because all these machines coming from China are made differently every time.
Thanks. I already found out that I can do safely 6mm if my walking foot pressure is adjusted correctly. Otherwise I was getting inconsistent stitches lengths.
Good video, thank you for all the information. I have one of this but my presser foot is going up and down but it doesn’t push the leather forward neither backwards. Do you how to fix this? Thank you in advance. O by the way my name is julio Rocha.
Hey Julio, I am going to guess it's your stitch adjustment screw. If you have it too loose or too tight it will do that.
Great Videos and a fantastic font of knowledge on this strange machine. I have ordered one after watching your videos, but want to buy spare bobbins and needles but this contraption not having a serial number or name I would not know where to start looking? Can you point me in the right direction or ebay item number or even compatible parts. Thanks in advance and keep up the good work.
I order all my spare parts from Bantam Saddle Tack at www.bantamsaddletack.com/Sewing-Machinery_c_20.html and thank you so much for your comment!!
Hi my name is Mayriest i love watching your video ,i would like to purchase one of your spool thread holder , am living in winter haven florida could you please let me know how to purchase,the spool holder thank you.for sharing your video.
I don't make them anymore, sorry.
Great info. How did you make That thread holder for the thread supply?
ruclips.net/video/ktmFRFDCQa4/видео.html
I fighting my machine currently. It’s I can’t get a single stitch or pick up the bottom thread properly because as my needle goes down and bottoms, the shuttle picks up the top thread, rotates, and then wraps my top thread under the shuttle assembly and carrier. Maybe my needle is coming down too low? I can’t figure out my issue.
It's either the timing in the bobbin or the needle height. I have three or four video on how to fix those issues.
Thanks for the swift reply, My problem is that I am in the UK, and so unable to get them sent from the States, I went on your site to buy your spool holder but again it said you do not ship to UK so had to go without! Do you know the name or model of the bobbin? Or a machine that takes the same one so I can source it that way? Thanks again for your valuable info.
Here is Matt's eBay store: stores.ebay.com/Bantam-Saddle-Tack, I believe he ships worldwide. As for me, I don't ship worldwide because of the hassle and cost of shipping. Here is an eBayer that makes thread stands for these machines, maybe they ship out of the US: www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Stand-for-China-Shoe-leather-Patcher-Sewing-Machine-Made-in-USA/132578437990?hash=item1ede4a6b66:g:oe4AAOSwdRpazocc.
I use a thread stand like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Single-Spool-Thread-Stand-For-Sewing-Embroidery-King-Cone-Holder/321865387875?hash=item4af0ac0f63:g:E18AAOSwymxVLDQP:sc:USPSFirstClass!04915!US!-1 when I am not going portable.
I have loosened my presser foot as far as i can without the nut coming off and theres still way too much pressure on the presser foot, do i need to find a new part thats a longer screw?? Or am i doing something else wrong
The only way to fix that if you already have it adjusted as far down as it will go is to lighten the presser foot spring. That involves removing coils and I would not recommend that.
My shuttle assebly keeps locking up after 2 or three turns. Ive watched tons of vids but i cant figure it out. Do you think it just needs to be oiled down in the gear area?
I have a new video out that might address that issue: ruclips.net/video/XJAhqb9tNpc/видео.html
Will the presser foot creat loops if it’s not properly adjusted?
No, that's a tension issue
I’m ready to use this machine for an anchor. My thread keep getting stuck in the bobbin. The leather does not move. It is one layer of buckskin.
The thread issue is ether a timing issue or a needle bar depth issue. Check out Q&A #1 and #4. Now for the leather not moving issue... It could be your stitch adjustment screw is too loose or too tight or something was not put together correctly in the sewing head. Check out this video for help: ruclips.net/video/2tlT2prY8qg/видео.html
Hi I noticed these machines are sold from multiple outlets at varying costs. Is there much variation in the versions sold by different distributors that you are aware of or should we just buy the best priced? Do they generally come with a spare bobbin or two?
I bought my machine from Bantam Saddle Tack here in the USA, but all the machines are pretty much the same. Some are just in better shape when they arrive.
Thank you.
hi harrison i did evrything right i put it on 12 evrything when in like it suppose to even put it on 9 and it was alittle bit out i maded it flush, at firts it was picking the bobbin thread but the uprer thread kept breaking so it got jam so i took the shuttle bed out, and the case where the bobbin seats the one with the gear was brocking, so i put the other one on now it dosent pick up the bobbing thread but the hook from the bobbing picks up the uper thread and wraps it on the bottom of the bobbing . thank you hope you can help me . i got 12 pouches to finiish i been doin ti by hand but iam 72 and thats getting old i mean doin it by hand thanks again atlease for lisening. if you have any questiong on electrical just let me no ive donit for 60 yrs
Do you happen to use Facebook? If you do I can video chat with you to try to fix these issues.
where can i buy presser foot for this machine ??
bantamsaddletack-com.3dcartstores.com/crm.asp?action=contactus
I'm having an issue with my bobbin thread not catching and coming back up through the needle hole on the bobbin. After I finally got it to pull through once, I can not sew past a single stitch without breaking the main thread and it doesn't appear the underside stitch is happening at all. The tension spring on the bobbin carrier was exceptionally tight (couldn't pull thread without breaking it) in both the first and second hole. I adjusted the spring, but what is the proper tension it should hold (ie does the the thread come out slowly if I suspend the bobbin and carrier by the thread or should it only come out if actually pulling on the thread)? Also what is the proper needle depth adjustment? When it first arrived the needle barely entered the needle hole in the bobbin cover, so how deep should it go into this? Thank you for the informative videos!
+Rob J Perhaps Mainley Arces can answer with better information than I can. I have found this hand crank machine on youtube and have one coming. Other Mainley Acres videos go into information regarding the bobbin and bobbin carrier. Using a dermal with a sanding drum attached, he cleaned the inside of the carrier as this area was tight or rough casting, perhaps both. I believe the second hole works best for smaller thread, the hole closer to the hook works better for larger thread. I have a commercial Juki lock-stitch single needle. Timing the bobbing carrier hook to the needles eye is crucial. He has a video that shows this. With the cover open, turning clockwise slowly, after the needle hit bottom and starts back up, is when the thread is held by the material, its at this point the thread creates a loop on the bobbin case side just as the hook comes around. The hook should almost touch the needle and the hook should be catching the loop as it comes around, about 1mm above the top of the needles eye. This way, as both move, the timing is correct. As it advances, the loop is formed, the hook grabs the thread as the needle continues upward. This is timing...something that needs to be checked each time you install a different needle, for thread size of replacing a broken needle. Look at videos: Sewing machine timing.
Make sure you have the correct needle as the main thread can break if scraping metal, too far down, bobbing carrier incorrect position, tension too tight, top tension to tight, thread groove in needle not facing away from bobbin, etc.
As for bobbin tension, try to adjust the tension with the thread you are using, place into the right hole, then holding it, the thread should come out with slight tension. Now, anyone who does this will tell you to practice on the same material you are going to use. After making a few complete stitches (If Able), but cut it loose and inspect it. Both the top and bottom stitch should look correct, if not adjust it tighter on top if top stitch looks looser than you want. Same with the bottom as this locks the stitch. I guess, loosen it up, practice, adjust as needed, repeat. This is the cross we bare, for anyone with a sewing machine has to go thru this procedure. Sorry to be long, but passing along info is part of learning. I am a retired ASE Master Tech who work on vehicles for 30+ years. Machines are in my wheel-house, but sewing requires some practice, adjustment and lubrication. I am sewing bucket seats in 1.3m leather, same for covering console and door panels for 67 C10 pick up. The Juki works well, but I installed a speed reducing pulley set under it. Otherwise, it runs like a weed-eater with turbo. I can't get the longer stitches I want in thick leather for french seams for a lifetime of seat use, so getting one of these. Hope this helps and makes sense. Best of luck!
Hmm, I guess I just needed a bit more time to get through more of your videos. Found my answer for the bobbin feed problem on your other video. Now to play around with tensions to get this thing operating right.
@@robj2083 if you haven't got it running yet, also try adjusting your stitch length, in addition to the top and/or bottom tension. If the tension is too high and your stitches are too small, it will break your thread left and right.
Thanks guys! After monkeying with it for far too long (bobbin timing correct, smoothed and lubed all metal on metal, etc) I took a couple days away frustrated. When I came back I was wondering why I never lowered the entire needle tube assembly. When I adjusted it down flush with the top of the front cylinder, the one that the presser foot is connected to, it worked like a champ. Playing with the bobbin tensioner, I found my particular machine likes a lighter tension for regular thread than the default so a little tweaking with a jewlers driver fixed that. I also rounded the edges of the tension spring slightly with 600 grit paper during the smoothing process.
Thanks everyone for jumping in to help out!! I have been away for a while and it's nice to see people helping each-other out while I was gone.
Another vid I will reference too
Is there a reason for tensioner next to head to be moved up higher on machine?
Nope, that's the way my machine came.
Sir, I purchased my cobbler shoe patching machine and made all adjustments, lubed it up and got the needle to pickup the bobbin thread, but when I start sewing the first two stitches the top thread break off like its being torn in the bobbin are, do you have any idea to fix this, I have cleaned and polished the shuttle for the bobbin and bobbin its self. I'm at a lose Sir can you help me.
Thank you Sir, and I found the issue, I was using to large of a thread and to small of a needle, so I need to get a larger needle for the thread that I want to use which is a T210 or T270, and that thread size requires a 25/220, so thanks for the help.
I am sorry it has taken me a while to get back to you, I am a busy man. The largest thread I have used is a T-135 as stated in my last comment to you, so I am not sure about using the larger thread/needle combos. I was told by the distributor that these machines will not handle a needle larger than a 22/140, but it would be nice to order a larger needle to see if that's true. Let me know if you can get the 25/220 needle to work with the T270.
No problem Sir, and your right, they don't make a needle that size that fits this machine, so as you said I'm going with the T135 and a 22/140 needle, and just except the facts LOL , thanks for all the info you put out there for use Chinese cobblers LOL ;)
Oh, thanks! Ill try that! Same thing is happening to me. I know this question was answered a year ago though so I'm just wondering- did it work?
My first and last stitch is loose. In between in beautiful and why does the first and last stitch end on top of the material? Help! Thanks
I need help I just bought the machine I set up a base for it everything was working fine until I took the wheel crank off and oiled it. Now the machine won’t crank for more than half a turn either way,
I have a question on why my hand crank won’t spin ??? Can u please helpmeeee
I would need to see your machine to find out why
First thanks. The bobbin doesn't catch the needle thread or/and its really messy on the bottom. Ive broken two bobbin springs already and got 2 more. Ive sanded down the parts but that still doesn't work. Its now catching and sometimes wont crank thru ......
I have three videos on the topic of "The bobbin doesn't catch the needle thread":
ruclips.net/video/GuWxdsxmX_c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YjdcY2ppxxM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VagtDdcenwI/видео.html
If none of these videos helps with your problem feel free to send me another message.
Play Harrison why will my needle not go clear to the bottom of the well I have the needle bar down flush on the top
Are you using the HAx1 needles?
I’m still having problems getting the thread to catch. After setting the hand crank to noon position and realigned the bobbin holder, I’ve cranked the handle and it does send the needle down but doesn’t pick the bobbin thread. It seems to catch on the inner lip of the well where the assembly is and then snaps the thread. Am I doing something wrong? I’m using upholstery thread, should I just use nylon?
+Michael Furukawa Hope I can help, but each machine has its' issues. Drilling or filling is needed in some places to keep you thread from catching. Make sure the needle is facing the correct way. There is a long grove for the thread to hide when going into the material. This groove faces away from the machine, so thread goes from left to right in eyelet. Once down, the thread is held by the material and create a loop. At this point the bobbing carrier's hook rotates into the loop. If this is not working this way, it is out of time. This is a simple machine, but with crank handle at 12 "O" clock, place the bobbin carrier into the machine at the 6 "O" clock position facing you. This is timing and has to be check, tension changed with new needled, different thread size, material change, etc. It all make a difference. For other sewing tips, look for "Cechaflo" on youtube. He has a video where he files and drills larger holes while placing a roller wheel on where the pressor foot was. Won't work on this machine, but put an eye on every part and go slow to check movement and contact of very part. You'll figure it out. Blessings.
If it catches on the lip you might need to grind open the hole a little bit - I had to when I got mine since when I'd send the needle down it would basically rub against the hole every time.
Hi the foot is not pulling material forward I have to push it through
Check you stitch adjustment screw, sometimes you can adjust it too far and it will stop the presser foot from walking.
Thanks I did it now I am ok
What size thread do these machines come with?
Can get my machine operating for a few feet but ultimately keep running into the issue where my bottom thread breaks. I've tried backing the tension off on the shuttle and also not winding the bobbin tight. Appears the bobbin itself is getting stuck on the shuttle. Gets snagged from spinning within the shuttle
Think I just found the issue. Outside perimeter of the bobbin had some rough metal spots that were catching on the inside of the shuttle causing it to snag up. Sanded the bobbin down with some high grit sand paper and it now spins freely with no snags
Where can I buy replacement parts? I received my bobbin shuttle without the flat spring and the seller on amazon I got mine from is no longer in business. You mention you broke yours so where did you get a new one?
www.bantamsaddletack.com/Sewing-Machinery_c_20.html
Look at Amazon for "shuttle hook tension spring." They sell the flat spring for about $5 each
Hi there, i bought one of those also because my hands were out of juice for hand sewing bigger jobs. I was wondering if there is a way of feeding the bottom line with a longer thread... it has small capacity and i am thinking of fixing a way of making a continous feed from the bottom. What is your thoughts about this??? Thank you for the videos
That's a good question, I will look into that for you.
Alright I posted your question in a group I am in and I got two responses.
1 Short answer no. Long answer yes but the amount of time, knowledge, effort and engineering needed to accomplish it outweighs the initial cost of the machine.
2 I'm thinking of putting in a slightly enlarged pin with a hollow center for the thread to run up from the bottom.
I was thinking of a same kind of solution. Feeding the bobbin from underneath through the center.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks my best idea was a kind like the second. A small hole on tge side of the machine and the thread loops the bobbin only for a bit of drag. The bobbin will work like a pulley. Can you picture this?
I think I am picking up what your putting down. You may need a spring to be able to adjust the tension, but it sounds like a winner. If you do that mod, let me know how it comes out.
@@MainelyAcresFarmBrooks thanks for the feed back. If i do the mod and it works out great i will tell you.
How are you able to sew 8-9 oz. Leather?
By using the correct thread/needle combo, adjusting the presser foot tension and start off slow.
Hi there, thanks for this tutorial. I just got my crank sewing machine but can get the handle to turn and can’t get the pressing foot to rotate. I have message the seller on eBay but no response. Please can you help in letting me know of anything regarding how to sort the machine out? Thanks in advance.
This video is for you: ruclips.net/video/XHv6kcA6DyM/видео.html. If you still have trouble with your machine feel free to send a comment and I can help via video chat
I love mine and thks for all the info ! You did an amazing job on the video ! Mine only has one tension. I'll keep in touch with you. My name is Eddie Perez from Taylor Texas. I do auto upholstery and leather work. Est. 1993
Thank you for your comment and support!!
When I use the machine most of the top stitches will be fine but every few stitches in the top will be really loose. on the bottom side all looks fine and tight. What could be the problem (apart of me not knowing ;-))
It could be a couple of issues: 1st Your bobbin or bobbin shuttle may not be smooth where they make contact with each other. 2nd You may need to match the tension so that the top and bottom are the same.
Hi any ideas why my walking foot isnt walking?
I have to ask do you think looking back would you still have bought the kit from bantom saddle for the 229.00 was it worth it. or is it cheaper to buy the machine from amozon and add the rest of the bobins and thread fro cheaper
That's a damn good question...
I still think the package deal from Bantam Saddle Tack was the best deal for me at that time. I say that because when I ordered my machine I did not have three years of experience running it or others to turn to for help. I needed a machine that would be ready to go out of the box. If I were to order a machine today, I would go with the cheap-o because I have the know-how to fix it when it arrives broken. I hope that was helpful
At 2:17 I meant to say T207 and our Etsy link is: www.etsy.com/shop/MainelyAcresFarm
Better to start your measured material guide using 1” -=>
because the * end is often inaccurate
Awesome tip, thanks
Can you use waxed thread?
They say it's not recommended, but I was able to run some thread I waxed myself.
my sewing thread keeps breaking while sewing, any suggestions on what you may think is the problem?
Do I use the same thread in the bobbin as I use for the top thread?
Yes, I do
Thank you
The main problem I'm having with my machine is making straight stitches. I really concentrate and even make a reference line on the leather, but the machine doesn't seem to go as straight as most of the videos I watch. I this the norm or do I have a problem that can be corrected ?
I have never experienced that issue with my machine.
+fsa1946 There are sewing machine needles that "Do" sew slight off creating a 45* angle / slight side-ways stitch. There is great information at Thethreadexchange.com Go there, right side, hover over "Needles", you get a drop box, click on needle buying guide. It has a legend for needle letters and the stitches you will get. These is a lot more information to be found in different areas. I am a retired ASE Master Tech who fixed vehicles, not into sewing, except I do my own stuff, so I had to learn. Marking your top plate, the one that swivels will help. If handy, drill a hole and fabricate a "Stop" plate to run you material against it as to have a third hand. Its' called a guide plate. Is the presser foot straight, as it can move in the cylinder. Even with electric running slow, I find holding front and rear to "Steer" the material thru helps a bunch. Mu Juki commercial lock-stitch runs wide open around 10,000 per second. So, I put a 14" pulley to machine, set screw to shaft, 3" pulley to motor, now it runs way slower, but requires time. Put someone on the crank for you, or drive it with a good motor and speed control...plus practice.
I had this problem - it turns out my presser foot was off-kilter so one edge of the presser foot would touch the plate but the other Edge wouldn't which would make what I was selling on sort of veer sideways as it sewed. So I ground it down so they're both touching the plate now, while still making certain to keep the grooves, and it sewed straight after that. Of course figuring out how to keep my upper thread from breaking is a whole nother problem which I have not solved...
@@wellwords Great catch on un-equal presser foot pressure. I will inspect this closely as it makes sense. After years of working on machinery, reading wear marks, noting witness marks and the understanding the machining on this component may not be perfect to contact the material equally would explain the slight side-twist to the stitch.
I have boxes of "Plastic Gauge" which is used to measure thickness. Adjusting the presser foot up, will create marks on one side, with less on the other side, this would tell me that you are correct. Using a thin material on one side and then the other may also produce the same results. Either way, have equal pressure or contact is the goal. Words, Well spoken, well words!
Thank you my friend!
@@wellwords I found this on my machine as well, good catch "wellwords". I used a simple trick with a zip lock bag. I folded it over, so 4 layers, then drop the pressor foot down on it. After tugging on the bag a little, it left marks only on the right side.
I removed the pressure foot and placed it in the vise on the edge so I could attach a torpedo level with magnet. Once straight or plumb, I place the live across the teeth and could see which was it was leaning. I used a large crescent wrench across the entire foot and slightly moved it to level. I attached with small metric bolts with hex heads, but repeated my test. Now the marks left are even on both sides and regardless of how long the stitch is, it now sews straight. Great idea.
I made a simple 2X4 wood stand to clamp to my Juki table with a "C" clamp. After a few looks, I figure out I can use some scrap metal, bar, tube and linkage to make a pressor foot lifter using my knee. I don't have a facebook account, but my do that to show Mainly Acres the lifter info.
Hi I have a Teken patcher 29, Singer copy, it stitches fine on thin leather, but doesnt catch at all on thicker leather. Does the height adjustment on the back has anything to do with it. Any help would be great as we are novice cobblers.
I would try adjusting the height adjustment to see if that would help. I have never used a Teken Patcher 29, so I am kind of shooting in the dark.
Cuando en españo carajo..compre una maquina de esas yno puedo configurarla .por el idoma. Asi como yo hay muchos
Entiendo completamente tu frustración de que las instrucciones que envían en inglés no ayudan al éter. Por eso comencé estos videos. Los fabricantes chinos no ofrecen mucha ayuda en estas máquinas.
TechSew Website has a Needle & Thread Compatability Chart that You can download for reference that is very useful to Newbies and Vets alike!
Thanks for the comment and the compatibility chart!! www.techsew.com/blog/needle-thread-chart/
My question to you is, how do i get my thread tighter once I’m stitching. I’ve got it all up in running ( thanks your videos) so every time i start stitching I’ve got it at the right length and everything. I start stitching and i keep having extra thread on top of my loops. Like it isn’t getting tight as I’m stitching. I need it to be smooth on the surface with the thread but I’m getting loops or extra thread on top to where it looks messy. How do i tighten that up so it will look good.
So the mess is happening on the top of the sewing project? If so you need to adjust the tension on the bobbin. If your using the hole furthest away from the bobbin spring and it still not tight enough you might want to switch to a thicker thread.
Yes it’s coming from on top. So when i sew instead of the thread getting tight against the fabric it’s leaves little loops up top. So it doesn’t look as smooth. Is it because of the bobbin or does something need to be tighter up top on the sewing machine?
The bobbin thread needs to be tighter.
I desperately need help!! I did something to machine where the threaded needle is not catching the bottom thread.. please help!
Make sure to check out all three videos on that topic: ruclips.net/video/GuWxdsxmX_c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YjdcY2ppxxM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VagtDdcenwI/видео.html
imtheworst2011
How do I replace a needle? Also how do I make sure it will pick up the bobbin thread? I’ve had my machine for a while and I got so frustrated that I haven’t worked on it for a week.
Great Teatcher! Thanks!
help can you use the same size thread in the bobbin
Yes, I usually use the same size/type of thread in the upper and lower
Hi can siwing with. 277. Nilon bonde.
I largest recommended thread size is T207
I bought one, pressure foot tends to try and walk the leather while the needle is through the material, in turn the material doesn’t walk at all, even when trying to do it by hand I just can’t seem to get it. My stitches end up on top of each other and it causes a birds nest inside the bobbin. I’ve tried playing with the adjustable screws, no luck. Any help with getting that walking foot to actually walk the material so I can actually stitch things together?
Ps: I’ve only tried sewing a single layer just to get the hang of it, haven’t even attempted putting two pieces together yet. This is an open question for anyone who may have some help, TIA
It sounds like your timing is off. I could be the pittman rod or the cams
100% got it going now! Thank you
which of the 20 brand names is this machine
I bought this machine from Bantam Saddle Tack
I’m having a hard time. For an unknown reason my thread coming from the top end keeps breaking after about 1 or 2 inches worth of stitches. Any ideas?
It's a timing issue or the needle bar needs to be adjusted. If you need help I have videos on both topics.
sorry but the nittle hits my finger no blood and the top of my thread rod is flus not like yours 1/4 inch.
I sent a friend request on Facebook, so I can help you get your machine up and running.
that you sew with
Depends on what material I am sewing and for what purpose.
having sewing seam guides on a machine that's meant to sew in 360 degrees, doesn't make any sense.
For people who use these machines like tradition sewing machines, it makes sense.