Great video! I always learn a little Golden Nugget when I watch one of your videos. I've been remodeling kitchens and bathrooms for 20 years and I never stop learning. Thanks for the info.
I'm getting ready to tile my bathroom tomorrow with the same size tiles your using. So this video was very timely. I went and made myself a story pole before I even finished watching this video. I love the way you laid the first 3 tiles down flat and marked the slope all at the same time. I'll be using that idea. Thanks for the great ideas.
Tile Coach, I probably will never put up any tile but it is great to watch craftsman and women work when they care about the details and the aesthetics of the result. I see and have had to fix so much sloppy work in my own house that could of have been avoided with a bit more time and competence in the original installation. That said, I know that a lot of tradespeople are on time quotes and are not given enough time to do the job properly.
This project series of videos inspired me to tackle my shower remodel. Just received my starter pack in the mail! Thank you for the encouraging note on the package as well as these videos that provide DIYer's the confidence to take on projects. Cheers from Michigan, Claudio
Love this guy! The attention to detail and the fact that you ACTUALLY give explanation on the why and how is the best! I’m always learning something new from your videos. Keep up the great work!
@tilecoach you make this stuff look so easy I am at the point of giving up on tile I suck when it comes to tile thank you for all the tips and tricks, I have purchased a number of items from your website and they have all been very helpful,,,,my favorite purchase however has been the tshirt that says some days you make friends some days you make money 😂
Thanks for these awesome videos, cannot wait to see the follow up video on this project you mentioned at the end that goes over tiling the niche and around the window.
The way I remember what is concave vs convex is, that tile you're looking at is concave because it's "caving" in. The way my math teacher also taught it was "a caved in surface holds water like a bowl, and we call it concave." The opposite would be convex. So the wall is actually seeing a convex surface while it is looking at the back of the tile.
I can see the distinct advantage of using a systm that does not require bonding strips. No build up is a big deal as far as my experience, and the time saving ++ Hope this comes to Canada. New technology making life simpler to build a better, longer lasting quality product.
Thanks for another great video. I have a question about the niche. It looks like it’s installed on an exterior wall. My bathroom remodel will probably need the same. Have you seen any problems doing that, particularly in colder climates.
Nice work as always! I have been looking for a niche installation video like this. The new backer board looks slick as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@tilecoach When will you have the follow up on the rest. Wanted to see the way you wrapped your niche. Thanks. Looking forward to trying out the redi tile system have a house from the 40’s we’re remodeling and it’s gonna be fun
Marshalltown leveling clips are the best. They don't need a tool to install and because they screw on, they don't push your tiles apart when you tighten them down.
How come you don't skip the first row and use a support nailer board, leaving the bottom coarse for last? One of your previous videos (TILE A SHOWER WALL -- TUTORIAL, 3yrs ago) showed that, and it made a lot of sense but here it seems like it's fine not to use one of those boards. You have the best tile vids, btw. Thanks!
I'm curious about this as well. In a previous video he said to not start the first course against the floor because the weight of the tile will squeeze out the wedges. With smaller tile, I've always set a ledger board and set 2-3 courses at a time. I would imagine with the large format tile, with the back-butter and the ridges collapsed, there's a lot of suction on that tile, and those horseshoe spacers typically don't squeeze out. I'm getting ready to start my back wall with 12x24 as my first LFT shower (My 6th as a DIYer), so I'd be curious if @TileCoach would comment on this because I'm only speculating.
I installed the 60" tile redi trench and the linear drain center point is 5.5" from the wall. If that tile is 17 3/8", based on your mark it is on the wrong side of the tile @11:04. It should be about 1/3rd of that tile in from the left side where it starts sloping back up.
1/8” would have worked too. But 1/16” looked better with the pressed edge but we had to make it close to 1/8” in the end with wedges because the tiles were different sizes.
What determines is the tile itself and pattern. If the pattern is stacked or running whatever size you want, if the you went with a herringbone or basket weave the grout width has to add to the width of the tiles to equal the length of the tile. Take 2 tiles lay them side by side, take a 3rd and lay it perpendicular to the first 2, the difference will be your grout line. Now if the tile is a 3:1 length it would be 2 grout lines + 3 tile widths = 1 tile length and so on. Ratio = Tile length/tile width, Grout lines = (Ratio - 1) Grout width = ((Tile length - (width * Ratio) ) / Grout Lines
Yo - remember that bag of Laticrete that was way too thick when you mixed it? The problem was they were missing the superplasticizer ingredient, it was a bad batch from the factory. Apparently they don't have a QA dept testing every batch, like most serious companies do.
Are you sure about this? I just mixed sone Tri Lite and it also needed more water than the detections called for. I figured it is a widespread issue across the Laticrete thinsets.
Great video sir. I am about to do the tile on my first 100% shower rebuild. I've done some shower tiling before, but not where I tore out the original and enlarged, essentially rebuilding the entire shower and adding 2 niches. I have a question for you that I don't know if you'll see in time for me, but here goes. I have a curb and the inside and outside of the curb tiles are set. Would you recommend tiling the top of the curb before starting the wall? I'm guessing yes, but I'd appreciate knowing what you would likely do. This is also my first shower using the leveling clips. Excited to see how well they work.
Hi Isaac, love your videos. In this case I did not see you do any wiggle to seat the tiles and collapse the ridges. I understand the euro trowel facilitates collapse, but is it unnecessary?
Thanks for another great one Isaac. I went with Tile Redi as well, wasn't into paper mache'ing my shower pan. What thinset did you use, Multimax? i know in the past the amount of water they called for just wasnt right.
I was wondering how these new trowel teeth patterns are compared to the ol' square notches. My first thoughts seeing how it goes on the wall is I don't like the inconsistent notch.
Are large format tiles easier or harder to install than smaller ones? For a beginner I would assume larger tiles are easier, but possible more expensive, especially if some are accidentally broken. Thanks guys!
@@TileCoach Thanks for the reply! Are smaller tiles better for beginners in general? It seems like more could go wrong with small tiles, but then again bowed and warped tiles wouldn't be as much of an issue.
Tile Coach, between Prova and Schluter waterproofing which one do you recommend? I am renovating a bathroom for a good friend of mine. Also the tiles that were installed by previous home owner is completely lose and detached from the floor. Is it because installer waited too long between mixing the cement and installing the tile ?
I’ve never set the shelves that are premade to be tiled into place. I would love to see you set some , it looks like they set in grout joints but I have no idea how that would be since grout isn’t really optional
In one of your videos you used a diamond rub stone to clean your cut edges... What grit do you suggest using, or is it better to have 2 different grits (rough/finish)?
Do you follow the same steps for a tiled bathtub surround? I know the tile redi wall boards have a half-lap joint. Do you bring that half-lap joint over the tub flange or cut it off?
What 7" wet saw blade do you suggest for porcelain tile? I bought a DeWalt diamond blade it's brand new but chips the tile pretty bad. I do have some diamond polishing pads but really need a cleaner cut.
I love your work. In this case I think I would have gone with the 1/3 offset. 2 reasons, 1 I believe it would have looked better, 2 I think it would have saved on materials
nice content. learned quite a few thing from you and starr tile. im amidst my first full solo bathroom renovation. all is going well. and what they feeding you out there in cali? looking like a Schwarzenegger i jr. lol good diet and banging out showers prob the trick
From a full exposure stand point! I have found that the factory made systems are great and save an enormous amount of time for the install, which saves labor. However, the end results cost the customer the same and maybe even slightly more from the increased price for the materials with the factory systems, which creates the dilemma for the installer from a monetary issue. The installer is selling labor and the factory systems shorten the labor and transfer the money being made to them and the supplier! Customer pays the same or even more so there is no monetary advantage for the customer! Manufacturers and material suppliers make more and the installer makes less. We have been in a boom for quite a while and most installers have found themselves needing to get on and off jobs faster to get on to the next job so there is a trade off that some may find acceptable and even necessary, but as things slow down installers may find they have more time than they do money!
I’m currently renovating my bathroom but I have haze on my Matt black porcelain tiles is there anyway you can show me how to remove that haze and make the tiles remain nice and black I could really use your help my parents think it looks like crap LOL
Same issue on our project. Use a few rounds of dry microfiber cloths, then damp, then do a final wash with wet sponges. Wring out, wipe once per side and rinse and repeat.
Nope, not sulfuric--too risky for the avg schmoe. Vinegar works well as the 2nd step. 1st step is to buy and use laitence remover if the haze is really strong. @@TileCoach
How do you stop tile spreading apart when you crank down the clips? I've had that issue sometimes especially on floors, as soon as I go to tighten the clips the grout joint will open up another 1/16th. Thanks!
That happens to me when I haven’t pushed the tile into place enough. I gotta slide it back and forth as I push to really set it in there. If all else fails, crank them down most of the way, then go back and finish them like changing a tire
Happens to us. I got a mini pry bar set from Harbor Freight. Use it to put pressure on the tile while clipping. Also perfect level master sells base plates. Put the base plates on first then the wedge and the tiles won't move
thats where you need a mallet , after your row is finished, just go over with a rubber mallet and tap each tile to straighten up joints, just make sure you do this first, then sponge off tiles because the mallet doesnt work to well if the floor is wet
I’ve installed it many times; been thru the factory twice. Their pans are decent and their warranty is unprecedented BUT IT LOOKS FAKE AS ALL GET OUT. SERIOUSLY real products are unmatched for aesthetics
I need help!!!!! We are in Iowa and I will fly you here 😂 I have emailed you but haven’t gotten a response yet. Also I would love a tile coach short how do we get one ordered????
@@ATO19657 typically a older version is about $350 for a new, $200 for a used. The new 2023 ones are about $850. BUT if you did like i did and take a Schluter training course (100% free 2 days awesome hotel etc...) you get one for free with some added content and a LOT MORE and you can actually get certified by them for a life time warranty on installs. I have taken 3 of their courses, and 2 warranty claim jobs worth it 100%, sign up takes a while (few months) but if you wait usually you can get a class close enough to you that you do not have to travel too far. As for just buying one... amazon, ebay, is a good start for used or new older editions.
The edge of the tile redi shelf sits about 1/2 inch or off the wall…how you able to tile over the edge without creating a ridge..seems you would cut out area where you could fully seat the shelf which would make it flush wit the wall…water proof around shelf…then you could tile right up to the edge…you did the latter….how????…Never mind…watched it again…Guess I have problems with depth perception…
Mark you tile to half makes everyting move half. Never start with full tile unless it works out everywhere. Use your mesure tape it better than a stick.
LOLI would love to sit down with a tile representative and have them.Tell me why 50% overlay is not recommended ..I don't care what overlays I use as long as I've Discussed it with the homeowner...I just want to have tile that's well made and not bowed😂
why wouldn't you just measure to high and low point and divide what's left from 1 foot sections and put that on top and bottom then both top and bottom are same size
Never put a leveling clip on the corner of a tile, manufacturer says 2” from edge of tile. - you never do a 1/2 stager brick pattern / running bond with a bowed or NON rectified tile. Why put all that pressure on a tile, asking for problems.
leveling clips in corners are fine for wall tile installs. what do you honestly think will happen to a big porcelain tile if you do? 95 percent coverage is absolutely fine. brick patterns have been used for a long time and with clips it makes for a flat wall, so whats the issue, do you think the tile is going to re straighten and eventually pop of because of the pressure? sometimes you have to actually think about things instead of hearing things over the years from various people.
Sal would not be happy ,are you are collapsing the ridges 100% I don't like to hide the joints behind the wedges like you have done on the vertical joints . Especially since you are having to adjust for level with the shims. You have no visibility of the bottom of the to mateing tiles.
If you did a gut out , the first thing you do is make sure your walls are square and true. 99% are not, so you sister in a new stud or shim where necessary. Your wall board at that point should be perfectly aligned to match up sheet to sheet. When setting your tile using your appropriate notched trowel which should also be evenly applied and the tile is buttered then your tile should be evenly adhered. These leveling clips are just over kill and not necessary. I've done hundreds of bathrooms in my 40 years and have never used them, in fact when I started tiling there were no leveling clips and my jobs have always turned out perfect.
The clips correct bowed tiles. No amount of experience can correct that - we’re not talking about subway tiles with 1/8” joints. Sneering at a simple and effective way to improve quality on large format time is just old-school stupidity. I have seen this kind of work in some very nice houses done by smart alec old schoolers who don’t care about a little lipipage here and there, or can’t make 1/16” even joints. People are getting educated watching these instruction videos and should always ask. Do you use Clips? Do you use lasers? And if the answers are no, it should be adios.
Sure, if everything is perfect, you probably don't need the clips, but the clips are just a relatively inexpensive way to ensure a better quality product
@@billsnyder6945 I'm an old schooler and I'm not opposed to trying new tools, systems, etc. I'm an analog man living in a digital world. But the reason some grout joints aren't the same size (if it's not a shitty job) is because all the tiles aren't the same size. The old schoolers I learned from would not allow spacers on a job. They were truly badasses! And they were SUPER fast, bc they were around before sheetrock and everything was mud. Had to learn to be fast back then. No phone or smoke breaks. We laid everything out with grid lines back then, through the entire job and we scribe everything (I still do). The tape measure is only used for layouts. This allows one guy/crew to start on one side and another crew on the other and we can meet in the middle. What's more important than perfectly sized joints is making sure the corners line up. The grid method also allows to see where cuts will be through the entire job and ensure there will be no French fry cuts, etc. I've never tried the leveling spacers but I've heard they are cool. Seems like a very long process tho and expensive. I cannot use a Lazer level. I can never tell if I'm on the line or off and then I'm always blocking the view. You can still learn some tricks from the old schoolers. In fact, I've learned from everyone I've ever worked with, even if it's what NOT to do. I agree new technology is often better. But sometimes the old way is better.
Saftey glasses please. Hate to see you get permanently injured. If you don’t like wearing them you can buy a really nice pair and it will be more comfortable.
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! I always learn a little Golden Nugget when I watch one of your videos. I've been remodeling kitchens and bathrooms for 20 years and I never stop learning. Thanks for the info.
I'm from Michigan up north we get really good prices for tile here we do very well you're very experienced tile guy, I respect you
Thanks!
I'm getting ready to tile my bathroom tomorrow with the same size tiles your using. So this video was very timely. I went and made myself a story pole before I even finished watching this video. I love the way you laid the first 3 tiles down flat and marked the slope all at the same time. I'll be using that idea. Thanks for the great ideas.
Ditto. Same pan too
Tile Coach, I probably will never put up any tile but it is great to watch craftsman and women work when they care about the details and the aesthetics of the result. I see and have had to fix so much sloppy work in my own house that could of have been avoided with a bit more time and competence in the original installation. That said, I know that a lot of tradespeople are on time quotes and are not given enough time to do the job properly.
I appreciate that!
You have to stand your ground and take the time to do it great so you don't have to have any punch list at all I haven't had a complaint in years
This project series of videos inspired me to tackle my shower remodel. Just received my starter pack in the mail! Thank you for the encouraging note on the package as well as these videos that provide DIYer's the confidence to take on projects.
Cheers from Michigan,
Claudio
Great job🎉 great video! You are the reason I’m doing my bathroom over here in Idaho! Thank you 😊
Good work sir, thanks for the tips and video. Keeping the workspace clean, is so very important.
Love this guy! The attention to detail and the fact that you ACTUALLY give explanation on the why and how is the best! I’m always learning something new from your videos. Keep up the great work!
love that story pole. genius. thanks for sharing that. this is why i love your vids, always picking up little tips. I love being your tile student!
@tilecoach you make this stuff look so easy I am at the point of giving up on tile I suck when it comes to tile thank you for all the tips and tricks, I have purchased a number of items from your website and they have all been very helpful,,,,my favorite purchase however has been the tshirt that says some days you make friends some days you make money 😂
Thanks for these awesome videos, cannot wait to see the follow up video on this project you mentioned at the end that goes over tiling the niche and around the window.
The way I remember what is concave vs convex is, that tile you're looking at is concave because it's "caving" in. The way my math teacher also taught it was "a caved in surface holds water like a bowl, and we call it concave." The opposite would be convex. So the wall is actually seeing a convex surface while it is looking at the back of the tile.
I can see the distinct advantage of using a systm that does not require bonding strips. No build up is a big deal as far as my experience, and the time saving ++
Hope this comes to Canada. New technology making life simpler to build a better, longer lasting quality product.
Gotta love the lasers!👍
Thanks for another great video. I have a question about the niche. It looks like it’s installed on an exterior wall. My bathroom remodel will probably need the same. Have you seen any problems doing that, particularly in colder climates.
Nice work as always! I have been looking for a niche installation video like this. The new backer board looks slick as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@tilecoach
When will you have the follow up on the rest. Wanted to see the way you wrapped your niche. Thanks. Looking forward to trying out the redi tile system have a house from the 40’s we’re remodeling and it’s gonna be fun
Marshalltown leveling clips are the best. They don't need a tool to install and because they screw on, they don't push your tiles apart when you tighten them down.
Sometimes we cement board the walls and Verdi cloth over it, instead of drywall and cloth. Works great. Solid
How come you don't skip the first row and use a support nailer board, leaving the bottom coarse for last? One of your previous videos (TILE A SHOWER WALL -- TUTORIAL, 3yrs ago) showed that, and it made a lot of sense but here it seems like it's fine not to use one of those boards.
You have the best tile vids, btw. Thanks!
I'm curious about this as well. In a previous video he said to not start the first course against the floor because the weight of the tile will squeeze out the wedges. With smaller tile, I've always set a ledger board and set 2-3 courses at a time. I would imagine with the large format tile, with the back-butter and the ridges collapsed, there's a lot of suction on that tile, and those horseshoe spacers typically don't squeeze out. I'm getting ready to start my back wall with 12x24 as my first LFT shower (My 6th as a DIYer), so I'd be curious if @TileCoach would comment on this because I'm only speculating.
I installed the 60" tile redi trench and the linear drain center point is 5.5" from the wall. If that tile is 17 3/8", based on your mark it is on the wrong side of the tile @11:04. It should be about 1/3rd of that tile in from the left side where it starts sloping back up.
Very Useful! Thank You 🙂
Great video! You used 1/16" spacers, why that and not 1/8" What determins the grout space shim to use?
1/8” would have worked too. But 1/16” looked better with the pressed edge but we had to make it close to 1/8” in the end with wedges because the tiles were different sizes.
What determines is the tile itself and pattern. If the pattern is stacked or running whatever size you want, if the you went with a herringbone or basket weave the grout width has to add to the width of the tiles to equal the length of the tile. Take 2 tiles lay them side by side, take a 3rd and lay it perpendicular to the first 2, the difference will be your grout line. Now if the tile is a 3:1 length it would be 2 grout lines + 3 tile widths = 1 tile length and so on.
Ratio = Tile length/tile width, Grout lines = (Ratio - 1)
Grout width = ((Tile length - (width * Ratio) ) / Grout Lines
Yo - remember that bag of Laticrete that was way too thick when you mixed it? The problem was they were missing the superplasticizer ingredient, it was a bad batch from the factory. Apparently they don't have a QA dept testing every batch, like most serious companies do.
Are you sure about this? I just mixed sone Tri Lite and it also needed more water than the detections called for. I figured it is a widespread issue across the Laticrete thinsets.
Always excellent work!
Story pole, what a great name and idea. Im using that tomorrow when i start my tile layout . Thanks
Great video sir. I am about to do the tile on my first 100% shower rebuild. I've done some shower tiling before, but not where I tore out the original and enlarged, essentially rebuilding the entire shower and adding 2 niches. I have a question for you that I don't know if you'll see in time for me, but here goes. I have a curb and the inside and outside of the curb tiles are set. Would you recommend tiling the top of the curb before starting the wall? I'm guessing yes, but I'd appreciate knowing what you would likely do. This is also my first shower using the leveling clips. Excited to see how well they work.
Hi Isaac, love your videos. In this case I did not see you do any wiggle to seat the tiles and collapse the ridges. I understand the euro trowel facilitates collapse, but is it unnecessary?
Very helpful ! How do you handle an inside corner.
Thanks for another great one Isaac. I went with Tile Redi as well, wasn't into paper mache'ing my shower pan. What thinset did you use, Multimax? i know in the past the amount of water they called for just wasnt right.
Nice work. How did you waterproof walls?
Do you have the details on how you sealed the wall panels to the pan?
Try the Rubi cyclone system.I find you can really crank them down if you have to . it gives you an extremely flat wall or floor.
I was wondering how these new trowel teeth patterns are compared to the ol' square notches. My first thoughts seeing how it goes on the wall is I don't like the inconsistent notch.
Are large format tiles easier or harder to install than smaller ones? For a beginner I would assume larger tiles are easier, but possible more expensive, especially if some are accidentally broken.
Thanks guys!
12x24 is harder than 12x12 but definitely doable for a beginner.
Larger than 12x24 is too hard for beginners.
@@TileCoach Thanks for the reply! Are smaller tiles better for beginners in general? It seems like more could go wrong with small tiles, but then again bowed and warped tiles wouldn't be as much of an issue.
Tile Coach, between Prova and Schluter waterproofing which one do you recommend? I am renovating a bathroom for a good friend of mine. Also the tiles that were installed by previous home owner is completely lose and detached from the floor. Is it because installer waited too long between mixing the cement and installing the tile ?
excellent video
I want to see the finished job
Do you have a continuation video of this project?
Hi, I probably missed it. May I know the grey caulking/glue used to seal the shower niche at the end? Thanks
I’ve never set the shelves that are premade to be tiled into place. I would love to see you set some , it looks like they set in grout joints but I have no idea how that would be since grout isn’t really optional
In one of your videos you used a diamond rub stone to clean your cut edges... What grit do you suggest using, or is it better to have 2 different grits (rough/finish)?
Where is the rest of the videos?
Do you follow the same steps for a tiled bathtub surround? I know the tile redi wall boards have a half-lap joint. Do you bring that half-lap joint over the tub flange or cut it off?
Can’t help but look at this man! 💕
Have you uploaded the follow up video to this project where you tile around the niche and window? I don't see it on your page.
For such a small shower, wouldnt it be easier to just go with 12×12 tiles?
If you have to cut every top and bottom tile, drop it the 2". The larger tile at the top will help visually with the sloped ceiling.
What 7" wet saw blade do you suggest for porcelain tile? I bought a DeWalt diamond blade it's brand new but chips the tile pretty bad. I do have some diamond polishing pads but really need a cleaner cut.
just curious... no any kind of wall waterproofing ? i mean membrane or red guard/ aqua defence etc... ?
Tile Redi boards are fully waterproof.
Hi Issac the clips look exactly like the raimondi even the tool looks the same.
What about breaking the edges of the tiles when removing the clips? No problem?
For the niche, did the flange overlap outside of the cuts on the face of the redi board or was it inset?
What kind of saw blades do you use ?
Tnx
What layout would you run with a 6 x 24 because from my understanding, you can’t do half
What wet saw blades do you recommend for 12x24 porcelain tile? I'm borrowing a 10" rigid tile saw from a friend. I'm overwhelmed with blade reviews.
Hi, Do you install vapour barrier film on exterior shower wall over insulation if Kerdi liner will be installed?
Thanks
Is there a reason on this video you are not shimmying tile side to side to collapse ridges?
I was wondering the same. Maybe the Euro trowel allows you to press it in lightly since its back buttered
Why didn’t you start a tile up on this install? The last video I saw started differently.
I love your work. In this case I think I would have gone with the 1/3 offset. 2 reasons, 1 I believe it would have looked better, 2 I think it would have saved on materials
nice content. learned quite a few thing from you and starr tile. im amidst my first full solo bathroom renovation. all is going well. and what they feeding you out there in cali? looking like a Schwarzenegger i jr. lol good diet and banging out showers prob the trick
Thanks man I’ve been lifting weights lately and feeling pretty good!
good stuff! keep grinding.@@TileCoach
Hi, working with Tile Redi pan now and looks like thinset is not sticking well to Redi Sealant, im using thinset that is on their approved list
was it still wet like he said or dry
What are the pros and cons of using drywall in showers?
Mold no pros😂😂
You don't like schluter kerdi board or cloth?
From a full exposure stand point! I have found that the factory made systems are great and save an enormous amount of time for the install, which saves labor. However, the end results cost the customer the same and maybe even slightly more from the increased price for the materials with the factory systems, which creates the dilemma for the installer from a monetary issue. The installer is selling labor and the factory systems shorten the labor and transfer the money being made to them and the supplier! Customer pays the same or even more so there is no monetary advantage for the customer! Manufacturers and material suppliers make more and the installer makes less. We have been in a boom for quite a while and most installers have found themselves needing to get on and off jobs faster to get on to the next job so there is a trade off that some may find acceptable and even necessary, but as things slow down installers may find they have more time than they do money!
tile has always been a feast or famine kinda thing lol no lie there
What is the type of sealant you used around the niche?
Have anyone heard about placing the cement board vertically instead of horizontally? I was told it's a better way for water drainage if any leaks?
Never heard of it but all joints should be taped and sealed anyway you slice it
thank you. Its the first time I heard that too...@@ATO19657
50% offset is typically referred to as running bond
What type of Thinset did you apply on this job? Multimax?
Did you do a video of the installation of the Redi Tile walls? What screws did you use?
Yea would like to see you install the tile redi walboard
You can see a complete installation video for the wall boards here: ruclips.net/video/MXugHg06BsU/видео.html
I’m currently renovating my bathroom but I have haze on my Matt black porcelain tiles is there anyway you can show me how to remove that haze and make the tiles remain nice and black I could really use your help my parents think it looks like crap LOL
Same issue on our project. Use a few rounds of dry microfiber cloths, then damp, then do a final wash with wet sponges. Wring out, wipe once per side and rinse and repeat.
Rinse with clean water and sponge and then use towel or microfibre cloth
Depends which grout , and how long it’s been sitting on the tiles
Maybe sulfamic acid
Nope, not sulfuric--too risky for the avg schmoe. Vinegar works well as the 2nd step. 1st step is to buy and use laitence remover if the haze is really strong. @@TileCoach
How do you stop tile spreading apart when you crank down the clips? I've had that issue sometimes especially on floors, as soon as I go to tighten the clips the grout joint will open up another 1/16th. Thanks!
That happens to me when I haven’t pushed the tile into place enough. I gotta slide it back and forth as I push to really set it in there. If all else fails, crank them down most of the way, then go back and finish them like changing a tire
Happens to us. I got a mini pry bar set from Harbor Freight. Use it to put pressure on the tile while clipping.
Also perfect level master sells base plates. Put the base plates on first then the wedge and the tiles won't move
thats where you need a mallet , after your row is finished, just go over with a rubber mallet and tap each tile to straighten up joints, just make sure you do this first, then sponge off tiles because the mallet doesnt work to well if the floor is wet
is there a reason wh ou one put one clip between tile vs two clips?
I did my bathroom but I think I used to much thin set and wish I would have measured the high side
What about waterproofing?!
Tile coach, have you used or know about a product Onyx ?
I’ve installed it many times; been thru the factory twice. Their pans are decent and their warranty is unprecedented BUT IT LOOKS FAKE AS ALL GET OUT. SERIOUSLY real products are unmatched for aesthetics
Exterior wall niche? I thought that was a no-no due to condensation concerns.
We have a pretty temperate climate in the Sacramento valley
@@TileCoach Thanks for the response. Makes sense, where I'm at it can get below the dew point quite frequently in the winter.
I need help!!!!! We are in Iowa and I will fly you here 😂 I have emailed you but haven’t gotten a response yet. Also I would love a tile coach short how do we get one ordered????
What wall board do you use?
When was the last time you read the TCNA? you should go back and review it, a few things you are doing wrong
Is it possible to get a physical copy of the TCNA and where would i find that
@@ATO19657 typically a older version is about $350 for a new, $200 for a used. The new 2023 ones are about $850. BUT if you did like i did and take a Schluter training course (100% free 2 days awesome hotel etc...) you get one for free with some added content and a LOT MORE and you can actually get certified by them for a life time warranty on installs. I have taken 3 of their courses, and 2 warranty claim jobs worth it 100%, sign up takes a while (few months) but if you wait usually you can get a class close enough to you that you do not have to travel too far. As for just buying one... amazon, ebay, is a good start for used or new older editions.
What is that shit tnca
What sealant did you use around the niche?
Tile redi Modified Silane Polymer
Pro tip. Use a hard rubber float to back butter. Buy the time your on your 200th tile, your nerves and ears wil thank you.
The edge of the tile redi shelf sits about 1/2 inch or off the wall…how you able to tile over the edge without creating a ridge..seems you would cut out area where you could fully seat the shelf which would make it flush wit the wall…water proof around shelf…then you could tile right up to the edge…you did the latter….how????…Never mind…watched it again…Guess I have problems with depth perception…
Why dont you mark your lay on carboard then mark it on wall more precise than stick
Not sure where in the country you are as far as cold weather but we would never install a niche on an exterior wall .
Right on, brother!
Yes sir!
Mark you tile to half makes everyting move half. Never start with full tile unless it works out everywhere. Use your mesure tape it better than a stick.
If your base isn't level, you will find out real quick.
LOLI would love to sit down with a tile representative and have them.Tell me why 50% overlay is not recommended ..I don't care what overlays I use as long as I've Discussed it with the homeowner...I just want to have tile that's well made and not bowed😂
Because the longer the tile the more warped they get and create lippage and especially if they’re not modular. Its dumb I still do a 50% offset
why wouldn't you just measure to high and low point and divide what's left from 1 foot sections and put that on top and bottom then both top and bottom are same size
Love your videos, but you are incorrect about leveling clips eliminating cupping on tiles.
I clip.the same way
You want a tile claim for lippage, do a 50% stagger. 😮😮😮😮😅😅😅
You also never “moved” the tiles perpendicular to the notches, to set the tile properly to get coverage. This is disappointing
Never put a leveling clip on the corner of a tile, manufacturer says 2” from edge of tile. - you never do a 1/2 stager brick pattern / running bond with a bowed or NON rectified tile.
Why put all that pressure on a tile, asking for problems.
leveling clips in corners are fine for wall tile installs. what do you honestly think will happen to a big porcelain tile if you do? 95 percent coverage is absolutely fine. brick patterns have been used for a long time and with clips it makes for a flat wall, so whats the issue, do you think the tile is going to re straighten and eventually pop of because of the pressure? sometimes you have to actually think about things instead of hearing things over the years from various people.
Fix your 2" cut issue by selling the customer on a nice listello
Sal would not be happy ,are you are collapsing the ridges 100%
I don't like to hide the joints behind the wedges like you have done on the vertical joints . Especially since you are having to adjust for level with the shims. You have no visibility of the bottom of the to mateing tiles.
If you did a gut out , the first thing you do is make sure your walls are square and true. 99% are not, so you sister in a new stud or shim where necessary. Your wall board at that point should be perfectly aligned to match up sheet to sheet. When setting your tile using your appropriate notched trowel which should also be evenly applied and the tile is buttered then your tile should be evenly adhered. These leveling clips are just over kill and not necessary. I've done hundreds of bathrooms in my 40 years and have never used them, in fact when I started tiling there were no leveling clips and my jobs have always turned out perfect.
Wow it must be hard to be so perfect
The clips correct bowed tiles. No amount of experience can correct that - we’re not talking about subway tiles with 1/8” joints. Sneering at a simple and effective way to improve quality on large format time is just old-school stupidity. I have seen this kind of work in some very nice houses done by smart alec old schoolers who don’t care about a little lipipage here and there, or can’t make 1/16” even joints. People are getting educated watching these instruction videos and should always ask. Do you use Clips? Do you use lasers? And if the answers are no, it should be adios.
Send me the link to your RUclips channel...
Sure, if everything is perfect, you probably don't need the clips, but the clips are just a relatively inexpensive way to ensure a better quality product
@@billsnyder6945 I'm an old schooler and I'm not opposed to trying new tools, systems, etc. I'm an analog man living in a digital world. But the reason some grout joints aren't the same size (if it's not a shitty job) is because all the tiles aren't the same size. The old schoolers I learned from would not allow spacers on a job. They were truly badasses! And they were SUPER fast, bc they were around before sheetrock and everything was mud. Had to learn to be fast back then. No phone or smoke breaks. We laid everything out with grid lines back then, through the entire job and we scribe everything (I still do). The tape measure is only used for layouts. This allows one guy/crew to start on one side and another crew on the other and we can meet in the middle. What's more important than perfectly sized joints is making sure the corners line up. The grid method also allows to see where cuts will be through the entire job and ensure there will be no French fry cuts, etc. I've never tried the leveling spacers but I've heard they are cool. Seems like a very long process tho and expensive. I cannot use a Lazer level. I can never tell if I'm on the line or off and then I'm always blocking the view.
You can still learn some tricks from the old schoolers. In fact, I've learned from everyone I've ever worked with, even if it's what NOT to do. I agree new technology is often better. But sometimes the old way is better.
Saftey glasses please. Hate to see you get permanently injured. If you don’t like wearing them you can buy a really nice pair and it will be more comfortable.