I had the same type of kit. Mine didn't have bridge holes. I found the arch of the top was the problem with my bridge. Never could get really low action, but it works. Thanks
You ve inspired me I went out and bought all the pieces separately then ordered a prs body that had a tremolo want a hard tail so filling that cavadie and moving forward
I appreciate your willingness to explain what worked and what didn't work for you during this build. One quick note: Yes, a lot of the Asian-sourced, "made-in-hurry" screws with such kits are poor quality. Using soap, bees wax, or screw wax on the screw can make snap offs less likely and help seat the screw more easily.
@32:30 I see "edits" didn't quite make it into the final cut, eh mate? lol I found this whilst poking about on the Tube and I relate fully with the painful bits you had going on. I, too, tried sanding tru-oil and it is not until you get to the final coats (after about 20 coats in fact...and about a month of daily coating) that you very fine wet sand and polish it out after it cures for a week or longer. I think the longer you leave it cure in atmosphere, the better it turns out. I tried 2k Gloss Enamel painting a guitar also, and getting "bits" in the finish is just a part of it unless you take very expensive precautions. Nice job for the first time mate...my first attempt wound up falling 20ft and splitting in half. At which point I ordered another kit, took my clamps and glue and told that fuc*ing thing "Ill be damned if you're going in the rubbish bin".
The non-parallel bridge is how these things are supposed to be drilled, not a flaw. The angle gives a head start on intonation, and without it the short range of adjustment on the bridge saddles wouldn't be enough. Tru-Oil is one of my own favorite finishes, in large part because there are so many 'right' ways to use it. I do thinner coats than yours, adding oil to the cloth but never pouring it on the wood. The one time I got the oil thick enough for wet-sanding and something resembling a factory lacquer finish, it took forty coats over about three weeks, knocking it flat every four coats with 00-grade or finer steel wool. For both a slight improvement to the shine and a tangible improvement to the feel of the neck, I suggest following the final polishing with Birchwood Casey's matching gun stock wax.
I'm talking about a different axis for the bridge posts to what I *think* you mean here. Not parallel as in relative to the bridge pickup and tail piece, but with each other 'sticking up' from the body. 40 coats and three weeks sounds like it demands a level of patience I just didn't have on this! Fair play to you.
Thanks Steve 🙏 You didn't miss it, I haven't covered it in any of the videos yet. A friend of mine cut out some vinyl for me, I placed it on before adding any coats of tru-oil, and then layered the oil on in the typical fashion. Running your fingers over it, it's not quite flush, but it's less noticeable than putting the vinyl on top of the finish at the end of the process :)
Hey, I talk very quickly about where I got this kit from in the first video in this series. Use your favourite search engine to look for Guitar Kit Fabric :)
Thanks :) Absolutely, although I think in the future I'll be going for another kit where just the neck and the body are provided, I'll source everything else. Should be a fun winter project!
That has got to be the ugliest PRS guitar ever built. What you just proved is that some people should never do anything without someone watching over their shoulder.
Hello Tim. It's a good thing that anything aesthetic is subjective eh? It was never my intention to prove anything, however, since you seem to be interested, I think these couple of videos show that even if you have no experience at something, sometimes just giving something a go can be a rewarding experience, even if others aren't a fan of the finished product. Stay safe.
You know, I remember my first build. It was a learning process all the way through. Now that I have a number of builds under my belt, I respect Chris's first attempt being a set neck instead of a bolt-on design. Nicely done, Chris! Keep it going!
lovely stuff. very nice!
I had the same type of kit. Mine didn't have bridge holes. I found the arch of the top was the problem with my bridge. Never could get really low action, but it works. Thanks
Looks much better than the video before.
You ve inspired me I went out and bought all the pieces separately then ordered a prs body that had a tremolo want a hard tail so filling that cavadie and moving forward
You know, if I've managed to inspire or help anyone in anyway with these videos I'd call that a resounding success, thank you!
Looks nice!!!
Cheers, David :)
Holy smokes that looks good!
Thank you kindly!
I appreciate your willingness to explain what worked and what didn't work for you during this build. One quick note: Yes, a lot of the Asian-sourced, "made-in-hurry" screws with such kits are poor quality. Using soap, bees wax, or screw wax on the screw can make snap offs less likely and help seat the screw more easily.
@32:30 I see "edits" didn't quite make it into the final cut, eh mate? lol
I found this whilst poking about on the Tube and I relate fully with the painful bits you had going on. I, too, tried sanding tru-oil and it is not until you get to the final coats (after about 20 coats in fact...and about a month of daily coating) that you very fine wet sand and polish it out after it cures for a week or longer. I think the longer you leave it cure in atmosphere, the better it turns out. I tried 2k Gloss Enamel painting a guitar also, and getting "bits" in the finish is just a part of it unless you take very expensive precautions. Nice job for the first time mate...my first attempt wound up falling 20ft and splitting in half. At which point I ordered another kit, took my clamps and glue and told that fuc*ing thing "Ill be damned if you're going in the rubbish bin".
We'll call it a 'directors cut' shall we..? XD
The non-parallel bridge is how these things are supposed to be drilled, not a flaw. The angle gives a head start on intonation, and without it the short range of adjustment on the bridge saddles wouldn't be enough. Tru-Oil is one of my own favorite finishes, in large part because there are so many 'right' ways to use it. I do thinner coats than yours, adding oil to the cloth but never pouring it on the wood. The one time I got the oil thick enough for wet-sanding and something resembling a factory lacquer finish, it took forty coats over about three weeks, knocking it flat every four coats with 00-grade or finer steel wool. For both a slight improvement to the shine and a tangible improvement to the feel of the neck, I suggest following the final polishing with Birchwood Casey's matching gun stock wax.
I'm talking about a different axis for the bridge posts to what I *think* you mean here. Not parallel as in relative to the bridge pickup and tail piece, but with each other 'sticking up' from the body.
40 coats and three weeks sounds like it demands a level of patience I just didn't have on this! Fair play to you.
Great videos, Chris. Guitar looks great. Not sure if I missed it, but how did you get a logo on the headstock?
Thanks Steve 🙏
You didn't miss it, I haven't covered it in any of the videos yet. A friend of mine cut out some vinyl for me, I placed it on before adding any coats of tru-oil, and then layered the oil on in the typical fashion. Running your fingers over it, it's not quite flush, but it's less noticeable than putting the vinyl on top of the finish at the end of the process :)
The reason why your neck pickup surround didn't sit right is because it's backwards. The thinnest section should be facing the neck on both pickups.
You never mentioned what company you got the kit from. I'd be interested in doing this kit myself!
Hey, I talk very quickly about where I got this kit from in the first video in this series. Use your favourite search engine to look for Guitar Kit Fabric :)
When you get the strings on you will know if it is BAD or not
what screw were you using on your drill
The drill bit is just a standard wood bit. You just need a bit thats a little smaller than the diameter of the threads on the screws.
does it require soldering?
This kit did not, no. Just plug and play connectors, didn't have to get the soldering iron out once.
That things pretty, why not put upgraded parts on it. Let's face it when u buy a kit like this your buying the neck and body. The rest is junk
Thanks :) Absolutely, although I think in the future I'll be going for another kit where just the neck and the body are provided, I'll source everything else. Should be a fun winter project!
That has got to be the ugliest PRS guitar ever built. What you just proved is that some people should never do anything without someone watching over their shoulder.
Hello Tim. It's a good thing that anything aesthetic is subjective eh? It was never my intention to prove anything, however, since you seem to be interested, I think these couple of videos show that even if you have no experience at something, sometimes just giving something a go can be a rewarding experience, even if others aren't a fan of the finished product. Stay safe.
@@cpcmotorsportmedia Just face it. If not for youtube people like you would never try anything new.
Show us proof of your work
You know, I remember my first build. It was a learning process all the way through. Now that I have a number of builds under my belt, I respect Chris's first attempt being a set neck instead of a bolt-on design. Nicely done, Chris! Keep it going!
@timhallas4275 🛎🔚