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you should delete and re-upload this video with some fixes: 1) verify problem is continuous, not intermittent. 2) if all coils are throwing a code, fix the engine ground.
Hey. i just saw this.. I think I put in a new ECU.. I am forgetting a lot. The car ran well until I sold it.. I replaced Crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor also..
Hey. i just saw this.. I think I put in a new ECU.. I am forgetting a lot. The car ran well until I sold it.. I replaced Crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor also..
Just finished putting a new coil. On the the second ignition coil due to code p0352. On my 2010 Toyota Corolla. Cost me $75. Probably saved me that much in work through a mechanic. Not only did you guys help me diagnosed the problem but tought me where the problem was due to the order of the code. Thanks man.
I had this problem on my F-150, turned out NOT to be the coil, NOT the connecting cables, but simply the plastic housing between the two was old and would not click into the coil. Swapping it out for a new plastic housing fixed the problem for me. Worth taking a look before spending upwards of $70 for a new coil, or messing with the wiring without having to.
New sub and THANKS. I'm pulling P0354, 55 and 56, ignition coil D, E and F primary/secondary circuit codes. I pulled the coils one by one and they were firing strong. If they were firing what else would throw that code. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys, great video, thank you very much. QUESTION; I replaced the coil and it still throws that 035 code at me, I have cleared it 3 times. What do I do?
thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully if u have more time u will answer as well! great video! first off i recently replaced all plugs and coil packs on my 06 cadillac sts. its now giving me the secondary circuit malfunction codes for all 6 coil packs that i changed. the car runs great tho so im not sure what to do next. i erased all the codes and resnapped all the harness wires on and off the packs to make sure they were connected good. still gettting all 6 codes for those coil packs again. any info would be greatly appreciated! thanks so much keep up the great vids!
@@randallsmerna384 sorry I cant remember! That was 3 years ago & was my ex gfs car. She ended up destroying the engine and it got repoed cause she took a loan out on the car & never paid
1 5 and 3 I believe are under the intake and probably a real turd to remove. Also can take a while of driving for it to return after clearing to be sure it is fixed.
What if all four of these codes come on for a 2017 Corolla? What if the engine intermittently runs well and then has intermittent sessions of running horribly while throwing all four A coil codes?
So this tech guy changes the coil pack, erases the error code, the check engine light does not come back on and he says all is good. Is it not that once you erase an error code , it takes a full drive cycle before the light can come back on, in case there are other issues that caused the light to come on?
A misfire will show pretty quickly. I'll bet you if he swapped the old one back in the code would immediately reappear again. If he swaps the bad coil to another cylinder it would appear there next immediately.
I heard you mention these codes, here's my issue. 09 Saturn Outlook 3.6L V6, changed all coils and plugs. Switched to AC/Delco iridiums, and after market coils with lifetime warranty. Now it throws P0351 through P056, "coils A through F, primary and secondary ignition coil failure" on all cylinders. It is running like a champ; more power, no miss, no hesitation, no problems. Running better than ever except the codes. I've read that the computer may need to "relearn" with these new coils installed. Does it do that on it's own or do I need a better OBDII scanner? Or is it something completely different? Thank you. I'm a brand new subscriber to the channel, just found you tonight.
I had this code on coil 1 so I switched coil 1 with coil 2 and ran cleared obd then ran for a while, code reappeared in the same spot coil 1 so not a bad coil. Wiring I take it?
easy way to check if the coil is defective is to swap to a known one and see if the code change location example. before the code is P0354, after the swap now become P0356. That simple ha.
Gee always so easy for everyone else. This is NOT always the case. What if you are using a coil pack??? Im having same trouble but coil 1 circuit. Ive replaced my coil pack twice. STILL says same code to replace it wtf
Thank you for the video. I had a misfire code and also the p0352. 2006 Ford Mustang GT v8. I changed my plug and coil. Now I have erratic idle and same code reappear
On the toyota sienna, a bad coil will turn on the MIL (check engine light) immediately. However, the video procedure is wrong because they did not first verify if it is intermittent or continuous failure before swapping the coil.
I literally have all of these codes that came on while driving: p0351-p0356 What are the chances they all went bad? What else would have caused this? thanks
Same here with 2017 Corolla. Throws these four codes and sometimes the engine runs fine and then it just takes a s***, stalls, runs rough, won't idle. Then it may run well the next day but you never know when it's going to take a s**t. I'm currently tracing the wiring harness looking for evidence of shorts, opens or losses of ground. Because it's hitting all cylinders it's a global issue not a single coil issue. Could be a bad ECM but it could also be a short or openness making the ECM freak out. They even said check the ground but I don't know if it's the ground to the ECM or what. I also don't know if the ECM has its own separate ground or if it's part of the wiring harness. Found some mouse evidence by the coils when the plastic cover was removed. I'm hoping that it's a mouse chew issue creating an intermittent short or open and freaking out the ECM.
The bank closest to the firewall is 1, 3, & 5. With 1 being closest to the right front (passenger's) wheel. The bank closest to the radiator is 2, 4 & 6, with 2 being closest to the right front wheel.
Just bought Audi a3 and hooked up diagnostic tool and showed p1305 fault code, rang dealer and they saying your engine light is not on so should not be any thing wrong.
What if it's not the coils? I get 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357 at stop signs. Misfires. Mechanic thinks it a computer. I think it's his crappy job where he spliced a new coil wire, with electrical tape, into cylinder one. But cylinder one doesn't misfire, now.
I understood everything he said. He has a heavy Russian accent so that could be it especially if you're not used to hearing it or English is a second language.
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www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
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you should delete and re-upload this video with some fixes: 1) verify problem is continuous, not intermittent. 2) if all coils are throwing a code, fix the engine ground.
Of course the engine light is gone, you cleared the code.
yea but he turned it off so it would reset
Yea there idiots I will take time for the engine light to turn back on anytime I’m fixing a problem and see there videos I watch them for pure comedy
Thanks guys. Saved me a bunch not having to take this to a mechanic.
Guy's you are AWESOME!!! Thank you so much you helped me save thousands on my vehicle YOU ROCK!!!!!!!
Hey, this is a great video. I have a rebuilt head, new plugs, new leads, amd new coil pack... I still get the P0351- P0354 after erasing them..
What was the resolution?
Did you find the reason of those mistakes ?
Hey. i just saw this..
I think I put in a new ECU.. I am forgetting a lot. The car ran well until I sold it..
I replaced Crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor also..
Hey. i just saw this..
I think I put in a new ECU.. I am forgetting a lot. The car ran well until I sold it..
I replaced Crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor also..
Just finished putting a new coil. On the the second ignition coil due to code p0352. On my 2010 Toyota Corolla. Cost me $75. Probably saved me that much in work through a mechanic. Not only did you guys help me diagnosed the problem but tought me where the problem was due to the order of the code. Thanks man.
simple dude, simple solution thanks mate
I had this problem on my F-150, turned out NOT to be the coil, NOT the connecting cables, but simply the plastic housing between the two was old and would not click into the coil. Swapping it out for a new plastic housing fixed the problem for me. Worth taking a look before spending upwards of $70 for a new coil, or messing with the wiring without having to.
Plastic housing?
New sub and THANKS. I'm pulling P0354, 55 and 56, ignition coil D, E and F primary/secondary circuit codes. I pulled the coils one by one and they were firing strong. If they were firing what else would throw that code. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Same shit
Hey guys, great video, thank you very much. QUESTION; I replaced the coil and it still throws that 035 code at me, I have cleared it 3 times. What do I do?
Bummer They didn't reply to you. What did you end up discovering? Bad ECM? Worn, cut wires in the harness? Poor ECM ground?
thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully if u have more time u will answer as well! great video! first off i recently replaced all plugs and coil packs on my 06 cadillac sts. its now giving me the secondary circuit malfunction codes for all 6 coil packs that i changed. the car runs great tho so im not sure what to do next. i erased all the codes and resnapped all the harness wires on and off the packs to make sure they were connected good. still gettting all 6 codes for those coil packs again. any info would be greatly appreciated! thanks so much keep up the great vids!
What did you find?
@@randallsmerna384 sorry I cant remember! That was 3 years ago & was my ex gfs car. She ended up destroying the engine and it got repoed cause she took a loan out on the car & never paid
1 5 and 3 I believe are under the intake and probably a real turd to remove. Also can take a while of driving for it to return after clearing to be sure it is fixed.
What if all four of these codes come on for a 2017 Corolla? What if the engine intermittently runs well and then has intermittent sessions of running horribly while throwing all four A coil codes?
So this tech guy changes the coil pack, erases the error code, the check engine light does not come back on and he says all is good.
Is it not that once you erase an error code , it takes a full drive cycle before the light can come back on, in case there are other issues that caused the light to come on?
not with a misfire
A misfire will show pretty quickly. I'll bet you if he swapped the old one back in the code would immediately reappear again. If he swaps the bad coil to another cylinder it would appear there next immediately.
Not all the time. Sometimes could be intermittent misfire which will need to be driven.
I heard you mention these codes, here's my issue. 09 Saturn Outlook 3.6L V6, changed all coils and plugs. Switched to AC/Delco iridiums, and after market coils with lifetime warranty. Now it throws P0351 through P056, "coils A through F, primary and secondary ignition coil failure" on all cylinders. It is running like a champ; more power, no miss, no hesitation, no problems. Running better than ever except the codes. I've read that the computer may need to "relearn" with these new coils installed. Does it do that on it's own or do I need a better OBDII scanner? Or is it something completely different? Thank you. I'm a brand new subscriber to the channel, just found you tonight.
What did you discover was the remedy for your codes?
thank you, this helps me
I had this code on coil 1 so I switched coil 1 with coil 2 and ran cleared obd then ran for a while, code reappeared in the same spot coil 1 so not a bad coil. Wiring I take it?
easy way to check if the coil is defective is to swap to a known one and see if the code change location example. before the code is P0354, after the swap now become P0356. That simple ha.
Unfortunately on my Avalon #3 coil is under the intake manifold 😣 So I'm able to perform this method.
i have the code on all 6 coils, could this be loose cable? where do I check?
Gee always so easy for everyone else. This is NOT always the case. What if you are using a coil pack??? Im having same trouble but coil 1 circuit. Ive replaced my coil pack twice. STILL says same code to replace it wtf
Thank you for the video. I had a misfire code and also the p0352. 2006 Ford Mustang GT v8. I changed my plug and coil. Now I have erratic idle and same code reappear
Truth Seeker gap the plugs to factory gap even pre gapped plugs need to be checked
But it's obvious, if you delete the code it wont have a check engine light but after a day or two it'll be back
On the toyota sienna, a bad coil will turn on the MIL (check engine light) immediately. However, the video procedure is wrong because they did not first verify if it is intermittent or continuous failure before swapping the coil.
@@networkedperson How do you check if it's continuous or intermittent and why the hell does it matter? You still have to replace it!
Thanks for the video. It was very easy to follow. I'll be swapping out my "po352" ignition coil or cylinder 2 coil on my own.
Thanks
Do a video of w211 amplifier antena 👍
I literally have all of these codes that came on while driving: p0351-p0356
What are the chances they all went bad? What else would have caused this? thanks
Did you find out what it was
Same here with 2017 Corolla. Throws these four codes and sometimes the engine runs fine and then it just takes a s***, stalls, runs rough, won't idle. Then it may run well the next day but you never know when it's going to take a s**t.
I'm currently tracing the wiring harness looking for evidence of shorts, opens or losses of ground. Because it's hitting all cylinders it's a global issue not a single coil issue. Could be a bad ECM but it could also be a short or openness making the ECM freak out. They even said check the ground but I don't know if it's the ground to the ECM or what. I also don't know if the ECM has its own separate ground or if it's part of the wiring harness.
Found some mouse evidence by the coils when the plastic cover was removed. I'm hoping that it's a mouse chew issue creating an intermittent short or open and freaking out the ECM.
@@tristanexantus6386 people not coming back to update is brutal on repair videos
@@PlatoonGoonFor me on the f150 I was working on it was a vacuum leak that caused these codes.
@@tristanexantus6386
This is interesting, seriously how would a vacuum leak causes these codes Any explanation?
2008 Toyota Sienna - where do I find p0355?
Had remote start added to my 2008 crown vic then it poped up is it not connected right or what ???????
how do you determine which coil is which?
The bank closest to the firewall is 1, 3, & 5. With 1 being closest to the right front (passenger's) wheel. The bank closest to the radiator is 2, 4 & 6, with 2 being closest to the right front wheel.
Just bought Audi a3 and hooked up diagnostic tool and showed p1305 fault code, rang dealer and they saying your engine light is not on so should not be any thing wrong.
Put new coils in my dodge charger and still getting the code any suggestions?
Make sure you clear the code so the computer knows you replaced it
Or swap the coil with another to see if the problem follows. Will save you wasting money on a new part that may not be the issue ;)
What if it's not the coils? I get 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357 at stop signs. Misfires. Mechanic thinks it a computer. I think it's his crappy job where he spliced a new coil wire, with electrical tape, into cylinder one. But cylinder one doesn't misfire, now.
Possible short in the wire will give that code.
What did you discover was your problem/solution?
You forgot to drive the car to see if the codes come back and the monitors set.
He started it. A misfire would show immediately.
Talk clear, I can't understand what you're saying.
How to fix your PQ-36 Space Modulator (Narrated by Marvin the Martian)
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He's choking on some French...
You can’t even understand what he says and he has the same damn video posted 4x
I understood everything he said. He has a heavy Russian accent so that could be it especially if you're not used to hearing it or English is a second language.
Lmaoooo exactly, waste of time
No too helpful,why you erase the code before see if light was on
That's is the proper procedure,if the code comes back, then you know you didn't fix it