Thank you for the follow-up video. It seems like so many things are reviewed just once and changes/improvements are lost without subsequent reviews. I appreciate your extra effort.
Fitting the filament runout sensor close to the filament roll is ok for when filament runs out but when you get a breakage this positioning is the worst place you could mount it, this unit is so light it could and should be mounted above the hotend assembly
I think I received a v3.5 or something. All of it matches with the video except: - My couplers are flexible - I didn't receive a sock - I do have uneven layer lines
Hello, thank you for this very well done instructional video! I have an issue with the endstop on my X1 V4. On mine the endstop triggers after there is contact with the bed (full contact and grab). In your video this should be just before contact so that you can freely move the extruder around the bed. I of course cannot do this due to the "full contact". I noticed on older X1s that the endstop could be adjusted. On V4 this is not possible. Did you have any suggestions on how I could "relocate" my endstop? I wished they kept the old method where the endstop was secured via a T-nut. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
Hi, you are right, on this new version the endstop is fixed and you cannot adjust the height (you can but you need to buy some T-nuts...) however, if your nozzle touches the bed before the endstop, just turn the bed knobs and lower the bed.
@@ruiraptor thank you... Typing this out actually made it realize I could just convert it back to the old method using a spare T-nut! Thank you for responding so quickly
This is a synchron belt. So that the x-axis can not shift or tilt on one side.. Because the printer only has one z-stop. If he hat two z-stop..they dont need a sychron belt..like the Anycubic i3 Mega..
By the way, many other guys just disconetc that bet , because they produce tension betewn the motors, and produce ondulation in a very tall printer..really i dobt know its true , but make samo sense to me
One big improvement I can recommend is to change to industrial quality flat ribon cables, they are rated for almost the double of loaf then the stock once and a bit longer to have longer live circles with moving in the stock connector's. partner-3d.de/shop/zubehoer/artillery-evnovo/artillery-sidewinder-x1-replacement-kit-flachband-kabel/
The three issues I've seen mentioned in other videos about the Sidewinder are, in order of importance 1) the lack of strain relief on the bed heater cable, 2) the plastic filament loading arm that often breaks (lots of aftermarket metal ones) and 3) the use of ribbon cables. The first issue is critical, since the bed runs on mains voltage. I'm wondering if the fix they implemented is enough, and if there is thermal runaway/short circuit protection built into the circuitry. In any case I'd be satisfied if I could modify the printer myself to add the strain relief - I haven't come across a video that tackles this issue, though. I am rather disappointed they didn't fix the filament loading arm problem - or did they? Is the arm improved from the earlier version? This is easily fixed, of course. Removable glass for the print bed would have been nice, too, though I haven't seen any reviewers having problems with this.
I suppose that brings up a couple of additional questions. 1) Is the new arm no longer prone to breakage, and 2) Will the aftermarket metal arms still fit?
I love this printer but there 3 things that could be cathastrophic: the glass bed its fixed, yuo cant quit for cleaning, the ribon cables have a lots of issues, and of course the plastic arm its easily broke( they konw it, that why its came whith another one)
broken arms are just a lack of knowladge, you wont need to push the spring to the maximum to get the filament easy through the hotend. (pre damaged arrivals taken out)
Bed fixed is terrible, totally agree... but this “ultrabase” style is not that bad, a bit heavy... mine came flat at least. but I much prefer the steel sheet approuch with PEI on it
Looks like they have made some minor improvements in the printer, I still don’t understand why they didn’t fix the two little screw thing so you don’t need a belt. Why did they not include automatic bed leveling get away from this nonsense of twirling knobs and too big to small too close to whatever.
Terribly to make this comment but, Sandra, your hands look like gypsy's from village market in eastern europe. More rings with different sizes than fingers. Cheers!
Thank you for the follow-up video. It seems like so many things are reviewed just once and changes/improvements are lost without subsequent reviews. I appreciate your extra effort.
This has to be the BEST assembly video I have ever seen for any printer! Thank You!
I think this music is from the RUclips library. It's very relaxing.
Thanks for showing the printer.
Hi, yes it is. You can check the video description for the music credits. We always include the credits in our videos.
@@ruiraptor How can i get the sucker to 300 degrees? Need to swap to a better nozzle ??? update the firm ware??? help if you can please!!!
15:46 is when they start talking about the differences between the versions
3:32 is the first difference...
@@thesupermariu Well, at 3:30 they say that the fan is bigger, and the next difference is 12 minutes later.
And the fan is covered at the end again, so you don’t miss any info skipping to that 15:46 time
Thanks Marcus, exactly what I looked for.
Hey Sandra & Rui ! Nice and pro review as always. Cool those improvements ! Good job from the manufacturer. Obrigado !
Thanks for this video, it really helped me assembling my first FDM printer. Clear and nice. Thanks
Awesome video! Thanks!
Fitting the filament runout sensor close to the filament roll is ok for when filament runs out but when you get a breakage this positioning is the worst place you could mount it, this unit is so light it could and should be mounted above the hotend assembly
So when the sensor triggers the end of the filament is unreachable in the hotend?
I think I received a v3.5 or something. All of it matches with the video except:
- My couplers are flexible
- I didn't receive a sock
- I do have uneven layer lines
How can i get the sucker to 300 degrees? Need to swap to a better nozzle ??? update the firm ware??? help if you can please!!!
Thanks for the video.
Keep doing good work💪 ...like always.
Go try today my new artillery sidewinder v4.
Another brilliant video guys thank you for the updates
Can it run 150 mm/s with decent quality?
Muito bom vídeo Rui.👏👏👏👏👏
Hello, thank you for this very well done instructional video! I have an issue with the endstop on my X1 V4. On mine the endstop triggers after there is contact with the bed (full contact and grab). In your video this should be just before contact so that you can freely move the extruder around the bed. I of course cannot do this due to the "full contact". I noticed on older X1s that the endstop could be adjusted. On V4 this is not possible. Did you have any suggestions on how I could "relocate" my endstop? I wished they kept the old method where the endstop was secured via a T-nut. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
Hi, you are right, on this new version the endstop is fixed and you cannot adjust the height (you can but you need to buy some T-nuts...) however, if your nozzle touches the bed before the endstop, just turn the bed knobs and lower the bed.
@@ruiraptor thank you... Typing this out actually made it realize I could just convert it back to the old method using a spare T-nut! Thank you for responding so quickly
Cmon I am willing to gamble on the Artillery X2
Here's what I don't understand: This printer has two motors for the Z axis, right? Why are the rods connected on top with a belt then?
This is a synchron belt.
So that the x-axis can not shift or tilt on one side..
Because the printer only has one z-stop.
If he hat two z-stop..they dont need a sychron belt..like the Anycubic i3 Mega..
Hi, Martin is correct. The belt will keep both leadscrews in synch when the Z stepper motors have no power.
By the way, many other guys just disconetc that bet , because they produce tension betewn the motors, and produce ondulation in a very tall printer..really i dobt know its true , but make samo sense to me
quando sai o x2 ou ate mesmo a review da x3?
Sairá em breve ;)
One big improvement I can recommend is to change to industrial quality flat ribon cables, they are rated for almost the double of loaf then the stock once and a bit longer to have longer live circles with moving in the stock connector's.
partner-3d.de/shop/zubehoer/artillery-evnovo/artillery-sidewinder-x1-replacement-kit-flachband-kabel/
Is there an English translation and link to the better industrial flat ribbon cable ? Thanks
The three issues I've seen mentioned in other videos about the Sidewinder are, in order of importance 1) the lack of strain relief on the bed heater cable, 2) the plastic filament loading arm that often breaks (lots of aftermarket metal ones) and 3) the use of ribbon cables. The first issue is critical, since the bed runs on mains voltage. I'm wondering if the fix they implemented is enough, and if there is thermal runaway/short circuit protection built into the circuitry. In any case I'd be satisfied if I could modify the printer myself to add the strain relief - I haven't come across a video that tackles this issue, though. I am rather disappointed they didn't fix the filament loading arm problem - or did they? Is the arm improved from the earlier version? This is easily fixed, of course. Removable glass for the print bed would have been nice, too, though I haven't seen any reviewers having problems with this.
the arm design is different from first version, they changed the supplier around 10 Month's ago
I suppose that brings up a couple of additional questions. 1) Is the new arm no longer prone to breakage, and 2) Will the aftermarket metal arms still fit?
@@iskandartaib yes and yes
@@iskandartaib the old arm had around the bearing this open space to work as a spring, this is now completely closed and thicker
🤔Interessante impressora 👍.
PLEASE do a bltouch add on video for this one. Also, thank you for your amazing videos
Would you say for this printing size and price this is the best printer in the market at the moment?
Hi, there are several great options on the market at the moment. It depends on what you want to do with it ;)
@@ruiraptor I'm looking for a printer around this size, with silent drivers and direct extrusion, any recommendations?
Hi, can you please contact us by email instead? Thanks
@@ruiraptor sure. thanks
Thanks!
I love this printer but there 3 things that could be cathastrophic: the glass bed its fixed, yuo cant quit for cleaning, the ribon cables have a lots of issues, and of course the plastic arm its easily broke( they konw it, that why its came whith another one)
broken arms are just a lack of knowladge, you wont need to push the spring to the maximum to get the filament easy through the hotend.
(pre damaged arrivals taken out)
Bed fixed is terrible, totally agree... but this “ultrabase” style is not that bad, a bit heavy... mine came flat at least. but I much prefer the steel sheet approuch with PEI on it
Em português por favor 😁🙏
Moulto brigato
Looks like they have made some minor improvements in the printer, I still don’t understand why they didn’t fix the two little screw thing so you don’t need a belt. Why did they not include automatic bed leveling get away from this nonsense of twirling knobs and too big to small too close to whatever.
because you still have a warped/bended object in the end
watch Thomas Sanladerers review... its a fire hazard!
Just as bad as a ender or a anet
8 bit mother board and a 200 Watt cheapo PSU.
Hi, the power supply is more than enough since it's equipped with an AC heatbed.
Wrong
Terribly to make this comment but, Sandra, your hands look like gypsy's from village market in eastern europe. More rings with different sizes than fingers. Cheers!
Parvoíce completa...Faz melhor que ela e exibe as tuas "belas mãos e belíssimos aneis"!