How do you get a 3 layer skirt? Doesn't seem to be an option in Cura. The new X2 comes with auto bed leveling, a 32 bit board, strain relief for the ribbon cables, and an improved heated bed cable among other things. I'm considering buying one. The crow reminds me of one I bought at Target 20 years ago - the head didn't swivel, but it would caw and the eyes would flash red if you walked by.
I think Cura only does single-layer skirts. That's one of the things I like about PrusaSlicer, being able to do a multi-layer skirt. I generally use a two-layer one. It makes them a lot easier to remove, especially if the first layer is too close and the skirt is just a thin smear of plastic. But if I remember correctly, in this video I ended up setting the skirt _width_ to three lines (while keeping it two layers high). Cura lets you specify the "skirt line width" so that's the setting you should look for. If I'm wrong, let me know, but I think that's what you're after.
@@iskandartaib To be fair, Cura has a ton of functionality, and it's extensible by a plug-in architecture. I just kinda went down the PrusaSlicer path when I got a Prusa MK3. But there are a bunch of free slicers, so there's plenty of choice. 😉
Hi! I just received my sidewinder and am pretty new to 3D printing. I was wondering if I need to fully cool off the heating bed before shutting it off or can I just immediately turn it off when I'm done with my print?
Hi! You should probably wait until the nozzle and hot end have cooled down before you power it off. Maybe 5 minutes, if that? You'll have to let the bed cool completely before you try removing your print, though. The cooler the bed is, the easier the print is to remove.
@@BV3D Thank you so much for your response! So I don’t need to wait for the heat to be 0/0 right? It stops around 23/0 for the longest time and I’ve been shutting it off at that. That also makes so much sense to wait till the bed cools so it’s easier to remove I totally didn’t wait for it to cool today and I was wondering why it was “stuck” hahaha
Heating bed doesn't matter, because it cools with natural cooling, but the nozzle cooling fan shutsdown when it is under 50 degree, so I shut my Sidewinder off when the nozzle is under 50 degree.
I had the same problem with the prints stopping on both a Sidewinder X1 V4 AND a Genius. What format did you use when you reformatted the USB? Seems like it might only want a FAT formatted drive, but I could be wrong.
To fix problems with the spool changes there is a printable spool holder fix on thingiverse. Beside that if you want to use the printer longer you have to get a new idler arm, as the one included, really breaks on any X1 after some time. It could be printed in PETG, but better directly get a metal one. Beware on higher temp as there is a PTFE tube inside the hotend.
hi , i just buy one artillery x1, but it was second hand, so it came whit a bad driver but i dont know which one yo buy can u help me plz. those are the one that i can get in tijuana at2100, tmc2208, dvr8825 or a4988. ty
Nice crow! I had nothing but problems with mine. It came with a broken screen which shorted out the card. The extruder also came in several almost unrecognizable pieces. The box it arrived in was in perfect condition. 6 months worth of replacement parts to get a first print. Ughh.! Something you mentioned receiving that didn’t come with mine, was the sheet on building a profile.
Hey Bryan. I got the Sidewinders smaller brother, Artillery Genius and I can tell you they fixed thw spool holder! Its adjustable with a single thumb screw
I love the modular idea of the ribbon cable. If any wire breaks, just replace the cheap ribbon. No running new wires through harnesses. They're easily reducing the bed weight by at least 0.5kg by doing away with the aluminum, and the quick heating is nice. Might be a fair trade off for the limitations.
Hi Bryan, i was wondering what setting you used with the CC3d Silk pla. I have been using their lime green silk pla and have been getting nothing but clogs with it. Do you have an suggestions for nozzle temp/retraction?
I have a creality cr10v2 that I am not very happy with. After 10 months I still cannot get consistent results with surface quality. Are you able to compare the two machines? I am considering the sidewinder as a replacement. Also what software issues are you referring to for new users? Thanks.
Excellent and complete review that covers everything. Nothing left out. Btw.: the Maximum number Of Filament spools you should have at home is D-1. D meaning your wife will want a divorce. :)
LOL. I'm guessing in my house that number would be pretty high. She just ordered four or five spools of Proto-Pasta for me. Admittedly, it's so I can print things for her, but still. 😊
I bout one about a month ago and honestly one of the best decisions I've ever made. It has its quirks but none of them affect the print. The ribbon cable is the biggest one. You must be very aware of it. Its pretty easy to accidentally hit it and can potentially cook the cable and possible printer. If you're careful you'll have no problems. If you have the v4 newest version, most of the problems you'll hear about are a thing of the past. This will put out the best prints you can get. Easily rivals the cr-10. Aside from a 3000 dollar printer this is as good as it gets and thats out of the box. Once presets are put in and tuned, this thing is gonna put out perfect prints. It can also run fast. Theres a roller fix for the spool on thingiverse that makes it no longer needed adjustments. The lights are pretty cool looking and useful. The color shows how hot the bed and hotend are. Ive also had this thing do a 5day nonstop print with no issue at all. So its extremely reliable. But I highly recommend it. Its a great printer all around, if not the best on the market for the price and size.
Its a great printer BUT 100% of multiple units I have are now failed because of a MIN TEMP trigger with faulty bed cables. They died within a year. :( And no the beds arent covered after 3 months.
I liked it when it worked. I had too many little problems that accumulated. Hotends are a little difficult to clean compared to other cartesian printers. I never got around to printing TPU. The Amazon return resulted when there was a breakdown in its firmware. The printer stopped printing mid-print on not only my designs but also on its own sample prints. This occurred 4 months after I purchased it. I contacted the Chinese manufacturer not the Amazon seller to troubleshoot after I bought new parts to fix what I thought was an extrusion issue. The manufacturer was helpful but the back and forth and language translation took 1 more month of time. They eventually told me I needed to reflash the firmware at which point I just sent the problem and emails over to Amazon. Amazon was actually cool about it even though it had far exceeded my purchase date. This was my 4th printer. Not a 1st time buyers printer.
can someone tell me if this printer is capable of printing nylon carbon? The ender 3 v2 was my choice specifically because there is so many aftermarket parts available so I'm worried that the sidewinder while better packed it's also limited on what you can upgrade
I'll have to see how they hold up in the longer term. My old Monoprice Maker Select Plus printers I got back in 2017 have regular 20-pin ribbon cables from the mainboard to the extruder/hot end, and those haven't failed me yet. I think the main issue that's been plaguing the Artillery cables has been the termination of them. They just press-fit into the connectors.
And remember that the bed its AC power , not ground, and other reviws show how the breaks!!Sorry ,tthys printer loooks very good ,but its Not reliable in short time
Awesome! I really like it. I sometimes forget how fast it goes from me telling it "Go," and the print actually starting. Like usually no more than just a little over a minute. I hope you enjoy it! 👍
How do you get a 3 layer skirt? Doesn't seem to be an option in Cura. The new X2 comes with auto bed leveling, a 32 bit board, strain relief for the ribbon cables, and an improved heated bed cable among other things. I'm considering buying one. The crow reminds me of one I bought at Target 20 years ago - the head didn't swivel, but it would caw and the eyes would flash red if you walked by.
I think Cura only does single-layer skirts. That's one of the things I like about PrusaSlicer, being able to do a multi-layer skirt. I generally use a two-layer one. It makes them a lot easier to remove, especially if the first layer is too close and the skirt is just a thin smear of plastic.
But if I remember correctly, in this video I ended up setting the skirt _width_ to three lines (while keeping it two layers high). Cura lets you specify the "skirt line width" so that's the setting you should look for.
If I'm wrong, let me know, but I think that's what you're after.
@@BV3D Yup, thanks! Perhaps I should investigate other slicers - there might be other features that aren't in Cura that I might find interesting.
@@iskandartaib To be fair, Cura has a ton of functionality, and it's extensible by a plug-in architecture. I just kinda went down the PrusaSlicer path when I got a Prusa MK3. But there are a bunch of free slicers, so there's plenty of choice. 😉
@@BV3D Yeah, I'm amazed Cura and other slicers are free. There's a bunch of work that went into it, and continues to be put into it.
Excellent video. I like that crow. I’d love to see it when it’s fully operational. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Corey Mac! You bet - I need to get working on it, and figure out how I'm going to attach the servo (probably a lot of hotglue!)
All those prints look amazing
Hi! I just received my sidewinder and am pretty new to 3D printing. I was wondering if I need to fully cool off the heating bed before shutting it off or can I just immediately turn it off when I'm done with my print?
Hi! You should probably wait until the nozzle and hot end have cooled down before you power it off. Maybe 5 minutes, if that? You'll have to let the bed cool completely before you try removing your print, though. The cooler the bed is, the easier the print is to remove.
@@BV3D Thank you so much for your response! So I don’t need to wait for the heat to be 0/0 right? It stops around 23/0 for the longest time and I’ve been shutting it off at that. That also makes so much sense to wait till the bed cools so it’s easier to remove I totally didn’t wait for it to cool today and I was wondering why it was “stuck” hahaha
@Kelly L Oh! Yes, the bed and nozzle will only ever be able to get as cold as room temperature. So unless your room is at or below 0˚C... 😉
Heating bed doesn't matter, because it cools with natural cooling, but the nozzle cooling fan shutsdown when it is under 50 degree, so I shut my Sidewinder off when the nozzle is under 50 degree.
Great video! Which profile did you use?
I had the same problem with the prints stopping on both a Sidewinder X1 V4 AND a Genius. What format did you use when you reformatted the USB? Seems like it might only want a FAT formatted drive, but I could be wrong.
Someone recommended that I use ExFAT or FAT32. I think I used ExFAT when I reformatted it.
To fix problems with the spool changes there is a printable spool holder fix on thingiverse. Beside that if you want to use the printer longer you have to get a new idler arm, as the one included, really breaks on any X1 after some time. It could be printed in PETG, but better directly get a metal one. Beware on higher temp as there is a PTFE tube inside the hotend.
hi , i just buy one artillery x1, but it was second hand, so it came whit a bad driver but i dont know which one yo buy can u help me plz. those are the one that i can get in tijuana at2100, tmc2208, dvr8825 or a4988. ty
Nice crow! I had nothing but problems with mine. It came with a broken screen which shorted out the card. The extruder also came in several almost unrecognizable pieces. The box it arrived in was in perfect condition. 6 months worth of replacement parts to get a first print. Ughh.! Something you mentioned receiving that didn’t come with mine, was the sheet on building a profile.
I found that 2 short chunks of PVC pipe as wide as your biggest spool will do the job very nicely.
That's a great idea! Thanks! I don't have any PVC laying around; I may just model some rollers up and print them out. 👍
Hey Bryan. I got the Sidewinders smaller brother, Artillery Genius and I can tell you they fixed thw spool holder! Its adjustable with a single thumb screw
Oh, cool! Thanks for letting me know! 👍
Commenting for viewer engagement! This video was thorough AND concise, and I appreciate your time and effort, Sir!
I love the modular idea of the ribbon cable. If any wire breaks, just replace the cheap ribbon. No running new wires through harnesses. They're easily reducing the bed weight by at least 0.5kg by doing away with the aluminum, and the quick heating is nice. Might be a fair trade off for the limitations.
Bryan Do you have a list of your filaments you used in the video. I like the colors
Hi Bryan, i was wondering what setting you used with the CC3d Silk pla. I have been using their lime green silk pla and have been getting nothing but clogs with it. Do you have an suggestions for nozzle temp/retraction?
Thank you Bryan, excellent walk through.
Thanks Shaun! Glad you enjoyed it! 😃
I have a creality cr10v2 that I am not very happy with. After 10 months I still cannot get consistent results with surface quality. Are you able to compare the two machines? I am considering the sidewinder as a replacement. Also what software issues are you referring to for new users? Thanks.
How does this compare with the Sovol SV01 in your experience?
Nice Video Bryan, a fairly new printer but missing a removable bed and automatic bed leveling.
Thanks Bryan, great video!
Excellent and complete review that covers everything. Nothing left out. Btw.: the Maximum number Of Filament spools you should have at home is D-1. D meaning your wife will want a divorce. :)
haha YEAAAS! :)
LOL. I'm guessing in my house that number would be pretty high. She just ordered four or five spools of Proto-Pasta for me. Admittedly, it's so I can print things for her, but still. 😊
Is there a board upgrade to 32 bit for the sidewinder?
Nice Job Bryan as usual
Hi Mat! Thanks! 😊
Really enjoyed this review. I need to decide between this and a Prusa. The question is whether the Prusa is worth the additional €200 or so..
And the wait
I bout one about a month ago and honestly one of the best decisions I've ever made. It has its quirks but none of them affect the print. The ribbon cable is the biggest one. You must be very aware of it. Its pretty easy to accidentally hit it and can potentially cook the cable and possible printer. If you're careful you'll have no problems. If you have the v4 newest version, most of the problems you'll hear about are a thing of the past. This will put out the best prints you can get. Easily rivals the cr-10. Aside from a 3000 dollar printer this is as good as it gets and thats out of the box. Once presets are put in and tuned, this thing is gonna put out perfect prints. It can also run fast. Theres a roller fix for the spool on thingiverse that makes it no longer needed adjustments. The lights are pretty cool looking and useful. The color shows how hot the bed and hotend are. Ive also had this thing do a 5day nonstop print with no issue at all. So its extremely reliable. But I highly recommend it. Its a great printer all around, if not the best on the market for the price and size.
Sidewinder X1 or CR-10 V3?
Nice review. It would be nice if Artillery would upgrade to the 32 bit board without raising the price.
Great video for a beginner like me. Keep up the great work. Ill be watching
What is your retraction settings for pla?
Good video
I Like My SideWinder x1 to👍👍
Which one is better compare with ender 5 plus?
Great video Bryan keep it up. Have any word on the ender 3 max
Hi! No word yet on the Ender 3 Max. Big printer though! I watched Joel Telling unbox and assemble his. 👍
@@BV3D Yes I watch it as well
Its a great printer BUT 100% of multiple units I have are now failed because of a MIN TEMP trigger with faulty bed cables.
They died within a year. :( And no the beds arent covered after 3 months.
not wroth buying then? i was thinking to get this or the cr10s
nice one! also: great t-shirt! :D
Thanks id! 😄
Very nice review!
Thank you! Cheers! 👍
Can you share the profile you used?
Hi Bryan! A really big printer. I liked the quality of the prints! These flat cables don't seem to be durable. Hugs from Brasil.
Hi Antonio! I'm hoping the flex cables will be OK. 🙂
I liked it when it worked. I had too many little problems that accumulated. Hotends are a little difficult to clean compared to other cartesian printers. I never got around to printing TPU. The Amazon return resulted when there was a breakdown in its firmware. The printer stopped printing mid-print on not only my designs but also on its own sample prints. This occurred 4 months after I purchased it. I contacted the Chinese manufacturer not the Amazon seller to troubleshoot after I bought new parts to fix what I thought was an extrusion issue. The manufacturer was helpful but the back and forth and language translation took 1 more month of time. They eventually told me I needed to reflash the firmware at which point I just sent the problem and emails over to Amazon. Amazon was actually cool about it even though it had far exceeded my purchase date. This was my 4th printer. Not a 1st time buyers printer.
can someone tell me if this printer is capable of printing nylon carbon? The ender 3 v2 was my choice specifically because there is so many aftermarket parts available so I'm worried that the sidewinder while better packed it's also limited on what you can upgrade
Great video. I have seen both video, you cover different aspekts of the printer
Thanks for sharing :-)
The LCD being on the left side of the printer is driving me nuts.
Cool vid
Flex ribbon cable for power transfer... Not my first or ever choice.
I'll have to see how they hold up in the longer term. My old Monoprice Maker Select Plus printers I got back in 2017 have regular 20-pin ribbon cables from the mainboard to the extruder/hot end, and those haven't failed me yet. I think the main issue that's been plaguing the Artillery cables has been the termination of them. They just press-fit into the connectors.
And remember that the bed its AC power , not ground, and other reviws show how the breaks!!Sorry ,tthys printer loooks very good ,but its Not reliable in short time
Great review, thanks!
watch Thomas Sanladerers review... its a fire hazard!
Thank you for your sharing.
how much is the 3d printer
He tells you at 16:15
I bought mine for 380.
Fantastic review. Thank you. You just convinced me to get that printer.
Awesome! I really like it. I sometimes forget how fast it goes from me telling it "Go," and the print actually starting. Like usually no more than just a little over a minute. I hope you enjoy it! 👍
some of us sidewinder owners have incurable z banding
I'm confused, why there is an extra german Version of the manual
But as a german, i like it
499? I got mine for € 380,- ...
Great video Bryan, I have an X1 and like it a lot overall. As for the spool holder I highly recommend thing:3650974 on thingiverse
Hi John! Thanks! And thanks for the spool holder tip! 👍
Yep I've got the same one. Works like a charm.